Category: Fashion

so, get ready to make fashion startup life a whole lot easier, and GRAB YOUR FREE DOWNLOAD OF THE NOT SO SECRET SOURCING DOC HERE

Calendly – Scheduling Meetings

As a sustainable fashion startup founder, you can probably relate to this situation.

You crafted the perfect cold email, pressed send, not expecting anything back, and then, by some miracle, got a reply saying yes, I am interested, with them asking to schedule a meeting.

Then, the conversation might then go a little something like this.

Does Tuesday at 2 pm work for you? No, Tuesday is slammed for me. How about Wednesday? Wednesday I need to take my dog to the vet and get my hair done, how about next week?

Then things kind of fizzle. Maybe one of you forgets to offer what feels like the 20th time and date to connect. A few weeks go by, and you reach out again; by this point, the momentum is gone, and maybe you don’t get a response.

Was this meeting with a buyer at your dream wholesale account, an editor at a publication you have been dying to get featured in, or someone else that might just be able to help you boost your business to the next level?

Some friendly free advice – you can not let essential meetings that could change your business slip through the cracks. As a fashion startup, every meeting is a world of opportunity that can help boost your brand to the next level. So, to make meeting scheduling easy, you need a service.

We are all busy people, and sometimes finding common times to connect can feel impossible. That’s why you need to make it easy to schedule meetings with you.

Hello Calendly.

Their tagline literally says it all “Calendly helps you schedule meetings without the back-and-forth emails.”

I love Calendly and have been using the service for years. When you want to have a meeting with someone, you send them a link to your calendar, and they can choose a time you are both free.

Calendly integrates with Google Calendar, so if you have something else scheduled for that time, Calendly will automatically make that time unavailable for meetings – no double bookings here.

You can also set meeting parameters. Like maybe you want to schedule all meetings for 30 minutes, or perhaps you want to keep a 15-minute buffer between all appointments to give yourself a break in between commitments.

And, there is more. You can set up meeting alerts, so you never miss a meeting. Calendly also integrates with Zoom, the live meeting platform, which I am sure by now you have a love/hate relationship.

Calendly is your meeting personal assistant.

As a sustainable fashion startup, it often feels like there are not enough hours in the day. By automating your meeting scheduling and reminders, you can free up extra time to do the most critical tasks.

Pricing
There are three levels of membership
Basic – $0
Premium – $8 per month
Pro – $12 per month

Personally, I have the free basic plan, and it has always done exactly what I need.

Milanote – Keeping Designs Organized

As a sustainable fashion startup founder, you are definitely a creative person. Even if you don’t consider yourself a creative, remember, fashion by nature is very creative.

Milanote is a tool for organizing creative projects into beautiful visual boards. It feels like working on the wall in a creative studio – visual, tactile, and sometimes a little bit messy. And, Milanote is an excellent fit for designers who work in teams remotely. You can also share your boards with people outside of your team.

The world of fashion is very visual, so tools like basecamp are sometimes not the best fit for your business’s needs. I love to use Milanote to organize all of the fashion trends I am seeing for the season. I also have a board of different textiles and materials that I want to keep top of mind, like images from supply chain partners of natural fibers and organic cottons.

Pricing
Free – with limited boards and storage
Per person – $9.99 per month with unlimited boards and storage
Per team (up to 10 people) – $49.99 per month

I go with the free version because it forces me to delete old projects if I want to start new ones. I am one of those people who always has about 50 web browser tabs open, and the only time I close them out is when my computer starts to malfunction. Keeping myself on the free plan actually helps me to stay on task and more organized.

Trello – Team Communication And To-do Lists

I never thought I would become a list person. For me, making lists felt like a total waste of time. Why would I sit around writing a list when I could be working and actually getting stuff done?

Now, after almost five years in business, I am pro-list. And, I really hope you are too. At a certain point in your sustainable fashion startup journey, everything is just going to feel like way too much. You will have so many things you need to do that you don’t know where to start. And that is usually where procrastination kicks in. Instead of doing everything, you end up doing nothing – at least, that’s how it works for me.

When you have a list and can physically see exactly what you need to do, things just feel clearer. Then, when you start actually checking off what needs to be done, you begin to feel empowered, productive, and ultimately motivated.

When you are starting, and it’s just you as a solo-pruner, maybe all you need is a trusted notebook. But, I promise you this, as you grow and start to hire your first team members or freelancers – everyone is going to need access to that notebook to be on the same page.

And that is where Trello comes in handy. It works like a digital post-it board. Every task gets its own note, and you can mark them with color codes, due dates, and even set reminder alerts. Then as the task moves through your processes, from needs to get done, to getting done, to complete, you can move the post-it to the appropriate stage in the project.

This is how I set up my Trello.

I have a board for every client. This way, I can open the client’s board and see exactly where all of their development and production are at.

I also have another set of boards that I share with all my supply chain and factory partners. We use it so we are all on the same page and know exactly where we are with every project.

Even if you are not working with teams, Trello is a great way to digitalize your to-do list, and they even have an app to keep you productive while you are on the go.

Pricing
Free
Business-class – $10 per month, good for teams up to 100 and with lots of bonus features

I use the free version. For now, it’s more than enough for what my partners and I need.

Shopify – Setting Up Your Online Shop

I have tried almost all of the website hosting platforms out there – WordPress, Wix, Squarespace, and of course, Shopify. Personally, IMO, when it comes to starting an online store, nothing can beat Shopify.

This blog post that you are reading right now is on my Shopify store!

Shopify makes running a business easy because their platform is more than just a place to build your website. What makes Shopify unique is the back end, meaning all the stuff that your customers can’t see.

First off, they make inventory management easy. Inventory management is something you will need to be on top of when you launch your store. This is for two reasons. The first is you don’t want to sell out of something and have a bunch of angry customers who can’t get their clothes. The second is, as you grow, you will have to start making re-orders with your factory – meaning ordering more inventory of the items that are selling well. Shopify allows you to see your sales trends and how much you currently have in stock to enable you to accurately forecast how much more you will need.

Shopify also makes payments and returns super easy. They even have an integration with Square, the credit card swipe machine you can use for in-person selling. The first time I ever had a return, I panicked. I was so worried about how I would refund the customer. Well, all that worry was literally for nothing because all I had to do was click a button, and Shopify took care of the rest.

Klaviyo – Go To Email Marketing Tool

If you are a sustainable fashion startup that cares about sales (I hope you do), you might have heard about building funnels.

If not, funnels are an email marketing technique to continue to market to your customers through email blasts. In Launch My Conscious Line we go super in-depth into how to build funnels that convert (read, result in customers placing orders).

But, to do all that you need an email service provider. What these providers do is allow you to send automated emails to different customer groups. You can send emails based on your sign-up list or based on customer behavior. Think emails like, because you bought this, you might also like this – all totally automated, so it’s no extra work for you. Pretty cool, right?

And right now, my favorite email service provider is klaviyo. If you are just starting and are on a budget, I would try Mailerlite. Mailerlite is a fraction of the price of klaviyo. But, they are perfect for a clothing startups basic email needs. If all you are looking to do is set up a basic email welcome funnel, start with Mailerlite. When you are ready to take things to the next level, that’s when I recommend making the switch to klaviyo.

Canva – DIY Graphic Design

I use Canva for literally everything. Seriously I do not know what I would do without it. From creating look books to resizing images for my website to the little infographics I make for some of my blog posts – I do it all on Canva.

Canva is hands down the one tool I don’t think I could service a day without. I love it so much I even sprang for the paid Pro version. (If you haven’t noticed I usually opt for all things free).

The paid version has an editor that allows you to remove the background of your images. This makes it so easy to edit product photos – goodbye overpriced and often flakey Upwork editors.

The Pro version also has thousands of stock photos to choose from, eliminating the need for a separate Shutterstock subscription.

If you are just getting started, I would recommend opting for the free version. I used the free version for about three years before upgrading to Pro, which will run you $12.99 per month.

Of all of the tools I am recommending on this list, Canva is the one to try first. Seriously, I don’t know a small business that doesn’t use Canva for its design work. Graphic artists must hate it because it is a serious DIY money saver.

Snapseed + Lightroom – Photoediting

Both Snapseed and Lightroom are probably the two most used apps on my phone, after the endless scrolling I do on Instagram.

Snapseed

I use Snapseed to enhance my images to a much more professional quality quickly. And, Snapseed is free!

Here is what I do to almost all of my photos. First, I bump up the brightness. Add a tiny bit of contrast. Then I increase the saturation and the ambiance. Then I finish the editing by increasing the highlights and decreasing the shadows. The whole thing takes me about 30 seconds – but it makes a huge difference.

Check out this before and after of me walking along the washing area of a block print house in Bagru.

Lightroom

Now for my fancy influencer style filters, I use Lightroom, which costs $9.99 per month. The cool thing about Lightroom is that you can grab other people’s filters and save them as presets. I get my filter packs from the app FLTR. 12 months of access to the filters is $29.99, but sometimes you can catch a deal and get 12 months for only $14.99. If you want to pay monthly it’s $9.99 per month.

Here is that same photo, now with a FLTR setting that I popped on using Lightroom.

Now all of this might sound a little expensive – almost $20 per month for photo editing apps – but IMO it’s totally worth it. A freelancer will cost you more than $20 per photo. And, when you are a small sustainable fashion startup, you need to think strategically. For $20 you can edit all of your social media content yourself instead of paying hundreds of dollars for a “professional” who quite honestly is probably using these same exact apps to get the job done.

Have you heard of batching? Batching is a strategy used by many to increase productivity. People who use batching will do all of their work for the month in just a few days.

So, three days out of the month, I might sit down and just bang out blog post after blog post and create enough content for a month or two. Then on another day, I might edit hundreds of photos. For the next few days, only write captions. Then choose one day a week to only focus on sales. With batching, you pick one thing that needs to get done regularly and do it all in a few days. And, by doing this, it is supposed to save you time.

I am day to day for a lot of my work, but I have found that batching is the most time-efficient way to be productive for things like social media posting. And, Facebook’s Creator Studio makes it easy to set all of your content at the start of the month and have the platform auto-post for you – aka set it and forget it.

While Instagram is an essential part of your brand’s strategy, let’s get real, you have more important things to do as a sustainable startup clothing brand than spend your day scrolling.

Make me a promise right now. Please, please, please, do not hire a Facebook advertising agency to help you boost your sales.

Most of these agencies will promise you significant results, take your cash, and leave you with a list of excuses as to why they couldn’t help you sell your product when it’s all over.

For the past five years, every person in this industry that I know I ask the same questions – do you know an advertising firm that can help sustainable fashion startups? And they all say, if I did, I would be using them myself.

Now, if you have 10k per month to invest in ads, that is a totally different story.

But, most of you small sustainable fashion startups out there will only have a few hundred dollars max to gamble on ads.

And, for that reason, I suggest the DIY route with AdEspreso and AdRoll. AdEspresso is helps you create and optimize Facebook ads, and AdRoll is the same type of tool, except it specializes in google ads.

Personally, when I look at Facebook’s business manager or try to create an advertisement through google, I get a headache. There is just so much going on in the back end to set up those campaigns.

Then you have to think about all the testing, split testing, and how to optimize your ads.

AdEspresso and AdRoll make this all super easy. So easy, I actually found I had better results doing it myself with their automated platforms than I was having with the ad agency that I was paying.

AdEspresso starts at $49 per month, and AdRoll has a free version and a paid version for $19 per month. Yes, $70 a month in subscriptions (read $804 per year) can be a lot for a sustainable fashion startup; but it is a drop in the bucket compared to the thousands of dollars that an agency will charge you per month.

These last two tools are very niche to the fashion industry and are a total time saver if you want to create professional industry documents but have no idea how.

Techpacker

You have probably heard me talk about Techpacker before; I am a huge fan. Techpacker is a platform that makes creating tech packs for your factories super easy. They have a drag and drop interface, and their pre-built templates help ensure that you don’t forget any of the crucial details.

Techpacker has pricing ranging from $49, $69, and $89 per month. And, IMO, it’s worth it. A tech pack from a professional could cost you anywhere between $100 and $300.

And, get this, in the decade I have been in the fashion industry, I have never seen someone create a totally perfect techpack. When tech packs are done incorrectly, they can actually end up costing you not only time to re-do them but also a lot of extra money.

When starting out in the sustainable fashion industry, my advice is always to save cash and go the DIY route.

Brandboom

This is another DIY industry tool. Brandboom allows you to create buyer-ready line sheets to help you sell your line to wholesale accounts and fashion retailers. Over the past year, they have even expanded their offering and created an online marketplace where buyers can meet new brands on the platform and place orders directly.

Plans for Brandboom range from free to $66, and $125 per month. But, when you consider the thousands of dollars that Jour and NuOrder are, Brandboom is a much more reasonable place to get started for startup fashion brands.

One more thing to mention about Brandboom and Techpacker – they take two items that are notorious for paper waste (seriously, sometimes I feel like I am responsible for the deforestation of 1/2 the Amazon based on the insane amount of techpacks and line sheets I have printed out in my life) and make them digital – helping your brand have an even smaller environmental impact. Hey, every little bit counts and helps.

What Do You Think?

And there you go, those are my top 13 tools for startup fashion brands. I wish someone had told me about all of these tools when I was just starting out. On the plus side, many of them are free or have free versions, to help you save even more cash and become even more productive.

Do you have business tools that you can’t live without? Please share them in the comments!

so, get ready to make fashion startup life a whole lot easier, and GRAB YOUR FREE DOWNLOAD OF THE NOT SO SECRET SOURCING DOC HERE

Now, let me make one thing clear. I love living and working in India, and I literally want everyone to work there and come and visit me too. I am not making this post to scare you away from working in India, I am making this post to teach you what can, and often does. go wrong, this way you can prevent it from happening to you, have the best experience possible, and end up loving the country as much as I do.

India’s Bad Reputation

When I first entered the fashion industry, back in 2011, there was a big push for companies to diversify their supply chains. To industry insiders, this was often referred to as the “get out of China plan”.

Around that time, China’s cost of labor was rising, and brands were looking for the next spot to have their fashions made. And, back then, India’s prices could not be beaten so everyone was trying to start manufacturing clothes in India.

So everyone said zài jiàn to China and aggressively started moving their programs to India. But, the orders they placed never came, and if they did they were 6-8 months late. So late, they couldn’t be sold until the next year’s season. It was a disaster.

What ended up happening is that many brands abandoned their India orders and placed rush orders in China to get goods into their stores as fast as possible – losing a lot of money in the process.

And, that was the end of the get out of China, and move to India era of the early aughts.

Fast Forward To Now

The reverse is starting to happen.

India is much, much better at delivering on time. And, if you really know what you are doing you can find some of the best supply chain partners in the world.

What I find really interesting, is that in the past 10 years the cost of labor in India has increased, and now, China in many cases (depending on the type of product) is actually cheaper. These days I am not a stranger to brands to stop manufacturing clothes in India and asking me for help moving to China from India for better pricing options.

Infrastructure Is Crucial To Supply Chains

And, that is because China is insanely efficient. The best way to understand China’s efficiency is to understand that the entire country has been set up to make things and make them as quickly and effectively as possible.

Have you heard of the Christmas Village in Yiwu?

“Yiwu is home to 600 factories that collectively churn out over 60% of all the world’s Christmas decorations and accessories, from glowing fiber-optic trees to felt Santa hats.”

That is some serious, efficiency. Now, I won’t get into just how coordinated the entire country is to have things made in this post, I am going to save that for another day. For now, just take my word on it.

India is set up so a lot of the knitting textile industry and knit products work in the South. And, the majority of woven textiles and garments productions is towards the north. Then, there are hubs around the country that are known for organic cotton growing or other specialties. For example, the state of Gujarat is famous for its support of artisan clusters and villages. But, in reality, everything is kind of happening everywhere. There is not a lot of organization or communication systems, or to be frank, infrastructure like China has.

And, that is why manufacturing clothes in India takes longer – they don’t have that competitive infrastructure edge the way China does.

People in India aren’t “lazy”, they are just working in a more archaic system, a system where power outages are normal, and cell phone or internet reception is never guaranteed.

The Beauty Is In The Chaos

Now, most clothing manufacturers in India these days are not going to ship your goods 6 months late, but, when you start working in India, especially if you are coming from China, it is important to understand, and accept that things are just going to take a little bit longer.

Watching India’s systems at play can be anxiety producing when it’s your first time. I remember looking at my supply chains after visits and thinking, omg, how is this ever going. to work. And you know what? It always does.

And, that is so symbolic of the culture. To an outsider it’s like what the heck is going on. But, to everyone else in the system, it’s all working out just fine.

Working here you really do need to give up some elements of control, and just go with the flow, and trust the process.

Everyone Has A Scam Story

Seriously, everyone. People I know in India literally joke, that if you haven’t been scammed then you aren’t really doing business in India.

Sometimes the injustices are small, and you almost feel sorry for them, needing to scam you out of such a tiny bit of money. And, sometimes they can be earth-shattering.

Here are two examples of times I have been scammed in India.

Be Careful Of The Bait + Switch

I was with a friend traveling from Delhi, to Agra, to Jaipur. We hired a driver to take us the entire way. He gave us a price for the trip, we negotiated a little, came to an agreement, and got on our way.

When we got to our hotel in Jaipur, he demanded double what he originally quoted. We both looked at each other and were like umm no, that’s not what we agreed to.

He then let us know that he knew the owner of the boutique hotel we were staying at – a subtle threat. As two girls traveling alone, we were basically coerced and scared into paying him the unfair price he demanded. So, we did.

What that story taught me was that finding a good and trust worth driver is important. Especially if you are a woman traveling alone. Do I pay my driver more than I probably should? Yes, absolutely. Is he worth every penny? Honestly, I would probably pay him more for his trustworthiness and the level of safety he provides.

Now, Here Is How This Same Type Of Scam Works When Manufacturing Clothes In India

Basically, the factory will make everything according to plan, you think things are going off without a hitch, and then it’s time to ship the order. You get your final invoice, and all the prices are higher than the original agreement. You even have written documentation showing the lower agreed-upon prices.

I have actually onboarded new clients in the middle of this type of crisis and was asked to help negotiate the release of their goods. They had found some random supplier on the internet, decided to work with them, then found themselves in this type of mess, and wanted me to help me get their orders.

I almost never get involved, because this is a battle they are not likely to win. And, I prefer to work with clients from the beginning. When you start manufacturing clothes in India I like to prevent this type of thing from happening in the first place.

The factory’s basically saying pay me what I want or you don’t get your goods. And, if you want to have clothing to sell for that season, you must pay them whatever they ask for. They know you are desperate, so they take advantage of that.

Another Version Of The Bait + Switch

There is one other way factories will scam, and why it’s so important to have a good quality assurance plan. They will make 1 perfect sample, take a picture of that for approval, and then the rest of the order they ship will be straight-up unsellable garbage.

You have already paid for the goods, and they are not going to refund you. Plus you waste all that money on international shipping.

If you are new to manufacturing clothes in India, I always recommend using a third-party quality assurance company, or getting on a plane and checking every single one of your garments before they ship.

Understanding Work Culture + How It Leads To Delays

Work To Live vs Live To Work

There is this meme, and I wish I could find it, that I saw a while ago about the difference between the United States and European work culture. At the top, there is a girl in the hospital that says something like “I am so sorry I will be unavailable for 2 hours while I get surgery, I will be answering emails as soon as I am awake from the anesthesia. And, on the bottom is someone on a beach saying I will be out of the office for the entire month of July, please do not expect any responses.

When it comes to working culture, American’s in my opinion, are the word in the world.

There is a saying in India that they work so they can enjoy their lives, and if they are not enjoying their lives, then why bother working? And when you are manufacturing clothes in India, you should always keep that in the back of your mind.

That Time Me + 10 Other American’s Got Ditched In A Village…

Here is an example of the work-life balance mentality. I took a group of people to a village to learn about artisan crafts. And, this was a super remote village – a 4-hour car ride to the closest city.

What they didn’t tell me was that 1 of the days we were visiting, there was a local village holiday. So we get there and have a great first day, we had a full itinerary planned for the second day, but that night they let me know everything for the next day was canceled. Because it was a holiday no one wanted to work.

I said ok, maybe we will just sightsee, could someone please take us around hinting that the person who booked our trip should at least do us this courtesy. The problem was that because the village was extremely remote, no one really spoke any English, at all.

She said no, she wanted to enjoy her holiday and we were on our own.

And that was that.

Now, you are probably wondering why did they invite us to come if they were going to ditch us. Well, they didn’t want to turn away the money. I was paying them a lot (more than they would ever make in their day job). So, they figured, get the money, get them here, and once they are here and the cash is in our bank account, there is nothing they can do.

And you know what? There wasn’t anything we could do but book a car and leave for the city where there were things to do.

Are you noticing how the scam is always kind of the same, some variation of bait + switch? I made a rookie mistake here, I gave them the cash up front. Never do this, always pay partially, or after the service.

Holidays + Wedding Season

There are so many holidays in India, not just national holidays, but local village holidays.

I think a great example of this is the holiday Holi. You might be familiar with the American appropriated color runs that rip of and bastardize the holiday. Anyway, Holi is a celebration where powdered colors are thrown, leaving you looking like a rainbow.

So, on the calendar, Holi is actually only 1 day. But, in India, it is actually played for about 1 week. Every village has its own day that they celebrate, that is different.

So, keep this in mind when working in India. Don’t just look at the holidays on the calendar, take the time to learn all of the local holidays of where your supply chain is, and how that might affect your delivery times.

The other thing you need to watch out for is the wedding season.

Wedding season always causes delays in supply chains. This happens in the late winter and early spring and is a time when many factory workers travel back home to their villages to celebrate their families’ weddings.

The workers often take off without any notice and return when they feel like it. The inconsistencies in labor in the factories end up causing chaos.

Early on, when I first started manufacturing clothes in India, I once asked, aren’t they worried about losing their jobs? And the answer was no.

If when they came back there was no job for them, they would just find another one, even if it was lower paying. To them, enjoying their family’s celebration was more important than stability.

And, that is such a difference from the American work culture. I can not tell you how many special occasions for family and friends that I missed working in fast fashion.

Saying no to my boss or taking time off was not an option. In my first first years in the fast fashion industry, I took 1 day off because I literally was too ill to make it into the office because that was what was expected.

Keep An Open Mind

While the delays because of holidays can be frustrating, ultimately I think it is a nice thing.

Let me explain.

I think it’s good they feel that they can live and enjoy their lives, and have not yet let us westerners pressure them into never-ending workdays and “working for the weekend”.

In fashion in the states, everything is treated as a high-stakes dire emergency. Seriously, late orders are treated with the seriousness of a bank hostage situation.

But, is that the right way of doing things? In my opinion no.

I remember one time my supervisor wanted me to do this crazy travel schedule where I literally would not be sleeping for days. And I was like umm, why don’t I just do this, it will still get the job done, and I won’t have to be sleep-deprived.

Her response was well I paid my dues when I was your age working like this – so, you should too.

My suffering, because she did 20 years ago, was her priority, and she was very clear about that.

I have said it before and I will say it again. Changing the fashion industry is not about going into developing countries and saving them from themselves. Changing this industry is going to rely on ousting the masochistic sickos of 7th Avenue in their high-rise corner offices.

That is why supporting small brands is so important to me. You have the opportunity to be different, you can make your own rules, and work on your own terms, and really be the change in culture that the industry needs.

So, new brands, if you take anything away from this post about manufacturing clothes in India, please let it be this. You might learn a lot more from your suppliers about how to live than you thought you ever would.

Yea, I was pissed that I was left all alone with a group of tourists who had never been to India tasked with the responsibility to show them around a village where I could communicate with practically no one. But, if I am going to get real, I also kind of envied her ability to just not care and want to enjoy her life and not work.

Why Is Someone Always Sick?

I think everyone that has worked in India has been given the excuse that a family member is dead or is sick, so that is why their order is late.

And, while too many Westerners it sounds like the dog ate my homework, to understand why your goods are late you need to understand Indian culture.

In India, they live with extended family. Take a look at this article that I wrote for Fashion Revolution a few years ago, peaking into the life of an artisan weaver. Not only did she live with her inlaws, but also her extended family. 10 people in a 2 bedroom house.

This is normal.

There aren’t really nursing homes in India, I mean, maybe there are, but I have never heard of anyone sending their parents to one.

In America, we move out of our houses, usually around the age of 18, and sometimes never look back. We are on our own, and if we choose to make a family we do that on our own too.

In India, the family unit goes beyond mom, dad, and children. It’s aunts, uncles, and all the extended family often under one roof. And, the responsibility to take care of one another is much stronger than here in the west. For this reason, when someone is sick, it is not abnormal for everything to stop and for what it feels like, everyone to take care of them.

Again, the priorities are different.

Maybe, The Differences That Fashion Views As Bad For Business Are The Reason So Many Conscious Companies Want To Work In India

Think about that for a minute.

Personally, I believe that these cultural differences are why India is one of the leaders in the push for ethical and sustainable fashion. And why so many brands who are prioritizing conscious fashion are choosing manufacturing clothes in India above many other countries.

Celebrating life, taking time for yourself, enjoying what you do, are all baked into their culture.

While many times Americans think they are saving “poor Indians” by giving them work, I think in many ways they are helping to save us.

Working in India helps teach you to slow down, be patient, and not take work so seriously.

TBH, I think that is a big part of the reason I enjoy living there so much too. Yes, trying to get things done in an efficient way can feel maddening sometimes, but that forced slowdown is something I think so many of us American truly need to live sustainably.

We all need to slow down and prioritize what’s important.

How To Find Apparel Manufacturers in India

Ok, I hope I did not scare you away from working in India. Even as I wrote about all of these wild stories of being scammed, and things not going my way, I look back on them fondly. They all taught me something, helped me step outside my comfort zone, and understand the country and it’s people a little better.

Now, I do not expect you to have your own horror story. In fact, I truly hope you don’t, and that is the reason why I wrote this article. So, here are a few tips to keep in mind while finding suppliers that will you with manufacturing clothes in India

Be Careful Of Yes Culture

In India, no one ever really says no. And, this can be kind of problematic when trying to get work done. Where I see this happen the most often is delivery dates.

I watch as a lot of new brands demand unrealistic delivery dates, and then get angry when they are not met. In India, it is in their culture to say yes, to get the order, and then to worry about how it is going to get done later (remember that story about me getting ditched in the village, that was yes culture at work).

When new clients tell me their stories or ask for my help getting themselves out of a situation, I always ask what timelines they were working on, and how late the goods are. And, they always tell me some insanely unrealistic timeline.

I tell them the truth is that they should have known better. Even though the supplier said yes, they should have known it was not really possible.

Another example of yes culture.

I was working with a local tailor to make some custom pieces for myself in Goa. This is one of the first times I had a garment made in India. I explained what I wanted, and asked if they understood everything. They said yes. So I said ok, see you in a few days.

The garment was nothing like what I had wanted. So, I started going through everything with them again, and that is when I realized they were yessing me.

At one point I literally said “what did I just say” and they said yes.

OMG, face palm emoji, IRL.

So, to avoid being yes’d, and to make sure communication is clear, I never take yes as an answer. Instead, I always ask for them to explain back to me what it is I said. If they can do that, then they understand, if they just say yes, then there is more work to be done.

Do Not, I Repeat, Do Not Talk To Manufacturers In Online Forums

As I mentioned earlier, this a recipe for disaster.

The latest social media scam…

So here is the latest Instagram scam I have been seeing. Random scammers are reaching out to influencers, telling them they own sustainable and ethical factories (they don’t), and getting the Instagrammers to promote them.

Basically, these “ethical suppers” are just local people that go to the markets to buy cheap, unethical, mass-produced stuff, and they resell it for 10x more than they bought it for under the gise they are helping communities.

In short, it’s a racket. And, when you buy from these people you are actually promoting the exploitation of workers who made the goods in not so great conditions.

So, do yourself a favor, think back to when you were a kid on AOL and your parents said don’t talk to strangers on the internet. Don’t trust suppliers you meet on social media.

And, On That Note, Skip Google

As I have recommended many times before, use garment industry trade shows to find suppliers instead.

And, one more time, in case you missed my other articles, always get references that can vouge for the suppliers you work with.

Again, I don’t want you to feel scared about working in India, I just want you to be prepared, and know what to look for. This way your first experience working in the country is a good one! When you know what to look out for you can prevent bad things from happening and keep the experience positive.

Also, I really hope you open your mind and instead of being voyeuristic and looking at yourself and your brand as a savior and solution, to also take the time to learn and grow.

so, get ready to make fashion startup life a whole lot easier, and GRAB YOUR FREE DOWNLOAD OF THE NOT SO SECRET SOURCING DOC HERE

What Do Manufacturing Consultants Do?

A manufacturing consultant is not the same thing as a manufacturing agent.

What Is The Difference Between A Manufacturing Consultant, A Manufacturing Agent, And A Manufacturing Rep?

Shout outs to one of my students for asking this question last week. She totally inspired this blog post, and made me realize that explaining the difference between a manufacturing consultant and a manufacturing agent is exactly the kind of info that new brand founders need.

The inspiration for some of my best blog posts is from students’ questions. Because, they let me know exactly what people are struggling with or find confusing.

Manufacturing Consultant

Think of manufacturing consultants or production consultant as a guide. You hire them to assist you through the process of taking your garment from idea to reality. They can do everything from reviewing your line and giving design and assortment suggestions, to helping you connect with the supply chain partners you need, to basically doing everything for you (but that is super expensive).

Manufacturing Consultants Are Niche

We are not one size fits all. There are consultants that offer full package, consultants that specialize in textiles only, consultants that do a little bit of this and a little bit of that, and even some that only specialize in making tags or only sourcing buttons.

When you start talking to manufacturing consultants make sure to ask lots of questions about their network (we also call this a supplier matrix) and what they specialize in.

Manufacturing Agent

A manufacturing agent is a person or company that has relationships with manufacturers and suppliers. They basically act as a middle man between you and the factory. Agents will take upcharges anywhere from 5% and I have seen as high as 200%. That means that if they buy a shirt from a factory for $5 they will charge you anywhere between $5.25 – $15.

I know crazy right?

I am going to let you in on an industry secret. As agents and consultants, we know when you have no idea what you are doing. When you think you are sending a professional email (and sure that might be tots aprops working in advertising or marketing) – what we see are like 6 red flags that you are in over your head. This means we (excluding me, because I am trying to help you here) are going to upcharge the crap out of you.

You, my friend, are getting the $15 price instead of $5.25.

Many new brands end up failing because their costing comes out so high that they simply can not make money. Don’t let that happen to you. Please, please, please, use my free resources so you sound collected and experienced.

Manufacturing Sales Rep

And, the last person who might be helping you get your produce your line is a manufacturing sales rep. A sales rep is an employee or a mill or factory. They are basically the supplier’s local representation. So, a factory in India might have offices with sales reps in NY and London.

You can think of sales reps as your suppliers on the ground sales team. Sales reps are great because they allow the supplier to have a presence in different countries and help build better customer relationships through top-notch customer services. Also, a lot of customers (especially people that are new to fashion) find it easier to work with someone that speaks their language and is close enough that they could meet with in person if needed.

At virtue + vice I Am A Little Bit Of Everything

virtue + vice As A Manufacturing Agent + Rep

virtue + vice is full package, which means that we basically do everything for you. You give us a design and we source everything from the fabrics, to the labels, to the trim. You then get 1 final price that includes everything up until shipping.

For some clients, we even help them with shipping and imports in the USA. We hold a bond, and have excellent relationships with freight forwarders (fancy name for companies that help you ship stuff that is usually cheaper than express carriers like DHL, FedEx, and UPS). You can think of us as the go-to management resource that includes everything from design to logistics, and everything in between.

virtue + vice As A Manufacturing Consultant

This would be my 10 week mentorship program – the Summer Sourcing Intensive. Where I basically give you all the tools you need, including access to my supply chain, and then teach you how to get everything done yourself by walking you step by step through the process. Basically, I am consulting you on what to do and how to do it.

The pro of working with a manufacturing consultant is that you learn everything and you get some really good advice from professionals. And, personally, I think it’s good to know and understand the entire process when you just starting out. You also tend to save a lot more money in the long run by hiring a consultant compared to an agent.

The downside of going with a manufacturing consulting model is it’s a lot more work for you. But, again, I think that extra work is worth it in the long run.

How To Hire Help

If you don’t work with me, that’s ok. Here are some tips on how to hire a fashion consultant to help you get your brand going and make sure their services are a good match with what you need help getting done.

Before You Reach Out, Get Focused

Know exactly what you need help with. Then when you know what you need help with, make sure to find someone that has those specific skills. For example, if you need help promoting your brand on Instagram, I am definitely not your girl. But, if you need help navigating the waters of international supply chain, I got you.

Make sure you are reaching out to the right person for help.

Hire Someone Who Has Done This Before

The amount of “experts” popping up these days is alarming.

Here are 2 recent examples of people that contacted me whoe got burned by a “sustainability consultant” and needed my help moving forward.

Tea-Time

Story 1

There is a girl who has been trying to sell a course that is almost identical to mine and has been caught a few times copying from my website and blog. The problem is before she “became a fashion consultant” she never worked in fashion. So for her to teach how the manufacturing industry works she basically has to steal her content.

I’ve had my eye on her, it’s kind. of weird, but I mostly just feel sorry for her clients. Paying her all this money for advice she is stealing from others.

I know we talk about imposter sysndrom a lot and moving past it. But some people really are imposters.

Fun fact. One of her past students reached out to me asking “can you give me your supplier list”. Firstly, the message was wildly inappropriate. While yes I absolutely love helping people, I am not just going to hand over my list of suppliers I built over a decade to a stranger. But, we got to chatting with her and learned she has no idea what fiber contents, fabric weight, or MOQs were – those are the very basics I give away for free right here.

She spent thousands of dollars and was no further along from really where she started.

Don’t let that be you. There are lots of other consultants out there just like me who have worked for decades, some even longer than me, in fashion. When you fork over money for mentorship or to be taught, make sure your teacher knows their stuff from real-world experience.

Story 2

This happened with a different manufacturing agent. It’s interesting because the agent had actually reached out to me and asked me for my “manufacturing list”.

What is everyone always asking me for my list?

That’s top-secret, took a decade to build, and only for me and my clients. I am not just handing that over to anyone.

Anyway, the manufacturing consultant had a very limited supply chain and one that couldn’t really handle small MOQs. So basically she convinced this woman to launch her brand making 300 pieces per style.

Big no, no. Huge.

Small brands out there reading this. Unless you have tens of thousands of dollars to spend on ads and marketing, this is way, way, way too much. Start small with only 20 pieces max. Not only does this allow you to protect your capital, but it makes selling out and then making updates and improvements on future orders much easier.

Not only did they make the mistake of ordering way too much. She made the mistake of not really knowing what their customer wanted.

Anyway, last I spoke to that brand it had been three years and they were still trying to sell out of their first season. (they contacted me for help with sales).

Unfortunately, I could not help them because sales work starts at the R&D phase, it starts on day one, not after production.

Their manufacturing consultant leads them astray on so many levels. And again, this was a woman who never worked in fashion. All of her content and “on the ground experience” was based on a 2 week trip to India.

So, protect yourself, and your dream. Don’t get scammed by manufacturing consultants – work with someone who has real experience.

Ask For A Reference

There is nothing wrong with asking for a reference. Most consultants will give you at least one.

But, here is the thing. don’t be pushy and don’t ask for more. You need to understand that it could literally turn into a full-time job for our clients to field your calls about us.

Please be respectful of our client’s time. Send 1 email, ask your questions, and say thank you. They don’t want to have a phone call with you. Remember, they have a business to run too.

Go With Your Gut

If you feel like something is a good fit, go with it. One of the lessons I wish I had learned earlier on in business is to trust myself and go with it. Listen to your inner intuition, and you will never make a wrong decision.

Do You Want More Content Like This?

I know this post was a little more, hmmm, how should I put this, gossipy, than the content I normally write. But, I want to help you, and I think the best way to do that is for me to share exactly what can go wrong so you can protect yourself from it happening to you.

I mean, who wants to pay $15 for a shirt that costs $5.25 to make, or wants the stress of a garage full of clothes they can’t sell, because an “expert” promised you way more success than they could deliver.

Being a successful brand is more than just finding a supply chain partner, it’s about looking at your brand holistically and then kind of becoming a fortune teller that can prevent problems from happening. And, IMO the best way to do that is to learn from others mistakes.

The 6 month course is packed with stories like these that are all about sharing where others went wrong so you can avoid those things from happening to you.

Let me know your thoughts!

so, get ready to make fashion startup life a whole lot easier, and GRAB YOUR FREE DOWNLOAD OF THE NOT SO SECRET SOURCING DOC HERE

In my signature course the Summer Sourcing Intensive – where you will learn to source in 10 weeks, I give you access to my VIP list supply chain list, which is perfect for startups that need low MOQs. The list has over 300 apparel manufacturers that are happy to work with small start ups. Plus 700+ other industry resources like fabric suppliers, trim suppliers, and even pattern makers.

But, if you want to try and tackle your supply chain on your own without my mentorship, this article will teach you exactly how to stop googling terms like clothing manufacturers near me, and start finding the best clothing manufacturers around.

What this article will cover:

Goldilocks Method

Remember Goldilocks And The Three Bears? The childhood story about a young home invader who made herself comfortable in a bear family’s house? She ate their porage (one was too hot, one too cold, and one just right), sat in their chairs (one was too big, another too small, the last just right), and slept in their beds (one was too hard, one too soft, and one just right).

When you start building your supply chain and reaching out to custom clothing manufacturers for startups, you want to be Goldilocks, meaning, be picky, and make sure they are just the right fit for your brand. Remember what is right for another brand, might not be right for you.

Where To Find Clothing Manufacturers For Startups

Let’s talk about how to find manufactures first. Because, before you can even decide if an apparel manufacturer is right for you, you need to know how to find them. I see a lot of young brands struggle with this. And, when they finally find someone that will work with them they jump right in, without ever asking themselves – is this the right partnership for my brand?

So, to be able to be picky, and not just settle for whatever apparel manufacturer that will agree to work with you, you need a nice big list of prospects.

Here is how to find clothing manufacturing companies.

Networking

Go to events and make some friends with other startup brands. This method takes time. Because, established brands are not just going to open right up to you and hand over all the hard work they did to build their supply chains.

The key here is to share. Give others information that you have. And, when you do that, they will be more likely to open up and share with you the apparel manufacturers that they are working with.

The other day I got an email from a brand asking me for my ethical supply chain list. I let them know, that list was only for my students and clients, and not for free.

Then they went crazy.

They told me I was a “gatekeeper” and that keeping my resources secret was harmful to factories because I was denying them work that they desperately needed for survival.

WTF?

BTW, this is totally not true. For starters, my factories currently all have more than enough work. So much we are actively turning away projects at this point.

The lesson here. Don’t be entitled. No one owes you anything. And, please don’t assume that factories are desperate for your order (I promise you, the good ones definitely aren’t).

Now, on the flip side, if you talk to brands I have worked with in the past, or friends I have made in the industry along the way – I am an open book. Need a block printer in Jaipur, here are 3 to reach out to. Looking for a garment factory in LA, I got you, reach out to my girl here.

For my friends, I’ll help them in any way I can. And, they do the same for me. When I need something they offer up their tried and true partners right away.

We have an unspoken agreement to help each other however we can. My garment manufacturers are theirs to use if they need help.

When you think of networking think of it as a give and take. When you give more than you take, you will always end up with exactly what it is you need. And, if you take only one thing away form this article, please let it be that.

Forums

There are so many helpful other groups out there… (I have found so many cool and helpful people in these groups) and, Reddit is another great place for asking questions and sharing resources too.

Google

… At your own risk. Google is the wild west of custom clothing manufacturers for startups. 

So, remember to do your due diligence to find the perfect custom apparel manufacturer, don’t just just google, ask the right questions, and make sure they are the right partner for what it is you need.

Trade Shows And Online Databases

Personally, I recommend using trade shows or online databases over google when searching for custom apparel manufacturers. Because suppliers that go to these shows are almost always a little more vetted. That is because most shows don’t let just anyone in – they only take suppliers with good reputations. 

Many startups think that trade shows are only for huge brands. This is so wrong, all fo the shows listed below have special areas to highlight supply chain partners that are happy to help small start up brands.

Sourcing At Magic – Apparel Manufacturing Trade Show

“Bringing the fashion industry closer together for continued commerce in an online B2B market place”

Sourcing At Magic is probably the biggest sourcing trade show around. Twice a year the biggest design teams and buyers trek out to Las Vegas to get business done and meet clothing factories from all over the world.

Common Objective

I love Common Objective’s resources for smaller startups and brands with a focus on sustainable and ethical manufacturing. They are a powerhouse of information and free resources that is dedicated to teaching fashion newbies. So, take advantage.

Trust me, they are a huge help in finding clothing manufacturers for startups.

“Common Objective (CO) is the global tech solution for a sustainable fashion business. Our technology simplifies and rewards best practice, turning sustainability from a cost into an opportunity.”

Maker’s Row

If you want to make in America, Maker’s Row is the supplier database for you.

“Your end-to-end manufacturing process – all in one place”

Sqetch

If made in Europe is more your thing, try sqetch.

“Save time sourcing. Find the perfect sustainable manufacturer or supplier in just minutes. Our search engine matches your textile sourcing needs with the best-suited sustainable manufacturer or supplier. It saves time and keeps you in control.”

kompass

And, my last recommendation is a global database. Kompass has you covered no matter where in the world you want to make your product – they are represented in more than 70 countries.

“Your route to business worldwide.”

Finding The Right Fit

Now that you know where to go and look for potential clothing manufacturers for your startup, you now need to know how to vet them.

Let’s dive in.

One Was Too Big

This is the number one mistake startup brands make when choosing their supply chain partners. They want to work with the supplies that the big brands work with.

When it comes to manufacturing in India, especially Jaipur, everyone wants to work with Anthropologie’s supply chain. Conscious startup brands always want to know who Reformation and Everlane are working with. And, swimwear companies are always after Frankie’s suppliers.

Trying to work with major industry players as a startup is a rookie mistake.

You Will Always Be Last In Line

When you are just starting out with tiny orders, you and your designs will always be pushed to the back.

The truth is (whether they say it or not) suppliers prioritize their biggest customers because those are the people that make them the most money. If they have someone order a couple of thousand units per style, and you are over here making 20 or 100, that big client will always get priority over you.

I had a client who spent a year trying to get their line produced in Bali, with one of the “best swimwear manufacturers” that “all the best brands use”. While the factory was capable of making a beautiful product, when push came to shove and there was limited room on the factory line – her order always got sent to the back of the workflow, and inevitably never got made.

There was always someone “more important” that needed their work finished first.

It’s Not Personal

It’s just business. For a factory, it’s the same amount of work for them to make 20 pieces or 20,000. The product development process is always still the same. The work and hours they need to invest are the same. The only difference is that with 20 units they need one sewer and with 20,000 they need a lot more.

With those bigger orders, they end up making a lot more money. And, unless they are a charity, the reality is that money is what is needed to stay in business.

Big Factories Are Highly Specialized

The other downside to working with a big factory is that they tend to be very specialized.

Big brands don’t just work with one factory. Sometimes they work with hundreds. And, each supplier in their supply chain is extremely specialized. They might get their swim from one person, underwear from another, t-shirts from a third, and so on.

With big factories, they prefer this specialization because it makes them more efficient. As their workers make one product over and over again, they start to get really good at it, and a lot faster at making it. When sewers are constantly bouncing between different products they never become as good as if they made the same thing.

Big brands can work this way because they have huge teams that can manage communication with so many suppliers.

The problem here is that you are, most likely, a team of 1. If you are making your first collection with 5 different styles, you probably don’t have the time to be managing sourcing, product development, and production with 5 different suppliers, possibly in 5 different countries.

The easiest way to manage your supply chain is to find someone that can make it all in-house (more on that in a minute).

One Was Too Small

Do yourself, and your brand a favor, and avoid the startup niche manufacturers.

There is a new business model cropping up – factories designed to help small startup companies, just like yours. They market themselves as being startup friendly and specializing in small orders.

IMO, you should avoid them.

Here’s why.

They Are Ridiculously Expensive

Here are the costings I got to developed 3 dresses in LA with a manufacturer that specializes in “helping” small brands.

• Patterns with 1 round of revisions – $1365 per style
• Making 1 sample garment – $1000 per style
• Marking and grading – $200 per style
• Technical drawings – $300 per style
• Retainer for “project management + sourcing” – $5000

So, in total, to develop samples of 3 styles you would pay $13,595.

And, to be clear, these aren’t super fancy couture gowns we are talking about, they are, to refer back to our old friends, the type of styles you would find at Anthro – cute but nothing too complex.

What It Should Really Cost

Now, because you are new to this, you probably have no idea what making patterns, sourcing, and sampling should actually cost you. Don’t worry, I am going to break down the pricing for you.

• Patterns with 1 round of revisions – $100-$300
• Making 1 sample garment – $150-300 per style
• Marking and grading – $0 per style – you do not need this yet, you can pay for it once you get closer to production, so skip it for now
• Technical drawings – $20-100 – hire someone off of Fiverr, there is tons of amazing talent at prices that won’t bankrupt your startup
• Retainer for “project management + sourcing” – $5000, personally, I charge $300 per hour, and a project like this would be about 10 hours, so about $3000. But, if you are bootstrapping you can do everything yourself and not have to pay anyone anything.

Working with me, or someone that isn’t out to take advantage of startups, you will pay about $4000, for your samples.

Now that is a huge difference!

So, Why Are Companies That Only Cater To Small Startups So Expensive?

Some really are just taking advantage that newbies have no idea what they are doing and how much things should cost. Their business model is not to take brands on and nurture them for a long-term partnership. But instead, they squeeze them for as much cash as possible, then going out searching for their next victims as their current clients go out of business because of impracticable and way too expensive charges.

The second reason is a little less nefarious. But, it requires a little insider knowledge.

Remember how I told you how it costs the factory the same amount of time and money to develop styles for someone making 20 pieces or someone making 20,000?

When factories only take small orders, they need to make their money somewhere, so they end up needing to charge huge management rates to make ends meet.

When you work with someone who is start-up friendly but also a professional that has bigger clients, they are able to make the bulk of their income on those bigger orders and do not need to charge you an arm and a leg to make your small orders.

They Might Outsource

The other downside to startup-focused factories is that they often outsource. Making a little bit of everything requires a lot of machinery. And, most small factories can not afford it all. So, they tend to specialize in a few different types of items and outsource everything else.

When you work with someone who markets themselves as a clothing manufacturers for startups, often they don’t even tell you they are outsourcing. When you stop by to visit them they have a nice little workshop with busy sewers, so you might just assume your things are being made there too. But, all too often, they are not.

Always be clear about where and by who your goods are going to be made. And, if you can, try to plan your factory visits while your garments are on the line, being made, this way you can see it with your own eyes. Plus, you can get tons of great content for your Insta and website.

They Aren’t Masters At Anything

If your factory is making everything in-house, that might also be a bad sign.

The person who makes your winter jacket should not be making your swimwear. For starters, they require totally different machines. And, as I mentioned earlier you want people working on your garments that make your type of product all the time, so they are really good at it.

Getting It Just Right

The perfect supplier will strike a balance between too big and too small.

Makes What It Is You Want To Make

The first thing you need to do to determine if your supplier is a good fit is to confirm they produce what it is you want to make.

Don’t go to a garment factory and ask for help making bedding. The person you work for should be specialized and an expert in what it is you need to be made.

Hands-On Team

Make sure you know the person that will be managing your account. Often when you first start working with a factory the owner or upper management will be communicating with you. Then, once they get your production deposit, things change, someone new is managing your account. They are usually lower level (read less experienced), and things may start to go wrong.

Make clear when you talk to your factory partners that you know exactly who will be managing your account through all stages of development and production to ensure good communication. This will also reduce the chances of things going wrong in the process.

No Outsourcing

Or, if they are going to outsource, they should be upfront and honest about it. Some things just don’t get made in the factory. An example of this is buttonholes. Many factories, especially ones in NYC pay another service to do their buttonholes for them.

It’s industry standard, and really no big deal. But, always make sure you know if anyone else will be working on your garments.

An Established Business, Looking To Grow

Basically, to sum everything up – what I am advising is that you want a middle-of-the-ground factory.

You don’t want a huge player, and you don’t want someone that is focused only on teeny tiny orders. You want someone that has solid business with medium size brands and they are interested in taking a risk on someone smaller

Someone, like you.

They do this in hopes that you will grow, and become one of their bigger clients.

Every factory I have ever worked with has a story about a client they took on that in the beginning started producing only a few pieces a season, and a few years later grew to hundreds or thousands.

And, why can’t this dream story be your business’s too?

Need More Help Finding Fashion Manufacturers?

And, as always, if you have more questions about how to find the perfect apparel manufacturers for your brand, please ask them in the comments – I’m here to help!

so, get ready to make fashion startup life a whole lot easier, and GRAB YOUR FREE DOWNLOAD OF THE NOT SO SECRET SOURCING DOC HERE

Why I Got Into Fast Fashion

This was taken at a factory in the Philippines. On days when containers were being loaded the factory workers would set up hammocks under the trucks to relax in during their breaks.

To understand why I left fast fashion, I think I first need to talk about why I got into it. I didn’t just fall into the world of dirt-cheap manufacturing, I worked my ass off to get there. So, let’s start at the very beginning.

How A Story From My College Professor About Another Student Shaped My Entire Career

For anyone reading this that doesn’t already know, I have an associate degree in Fashion Merchandising and Management, and a bachelor’s degree in Textile Development and Marketing from FIT (the Fashion Institute of Technology – one of the best fashion colleges in the country).

When I started out at FIT I didn’t even know textile science was a thing. I wanted to be a retail buyer at a big department store. But, thanks to a breadth requirement I found myself in a Textiles 101 class, that completely changed my life.

Anyway back to my story. I remember this one teacher told us about one of their students who had recently graduated, and after spending time overseas in factories they had to take a leave of absence from their job and were in full-time therapy because of what they saw while they were over there.

What?

To most people that probably would have been a warning sign to choose another career. For me, I was like, I have to get over there and see what this is all about.

So, when I got an offer a position for a company that made products for brands like Walmart, Target, and all those big players, I jumped at the chance. When my other co-workers would make up excuses not to travel and visit factories, I would go in their place. I wanted every chance I could have to really see what this industry was really about.

Here is why the experience was so important to me. I believe that to change the industry, and like really change it, you need to know how it works. And, the only way to understand the beast that is fast fashion is to become part of it. There are no shortcuts, to life experience – sorry influencers.

My Time In The Industry

Throwback to that time I was shopping for fabrics in HK, and this snake literally fell from the rafters and onto my foot. There is no such thing as an uneventful day in product development. 

When I worked in fast fashion I spent a lot, a lot, a lot, of time overseas. As I said, I never said no to a trip. And, this experience was invaluable to me becoming a sustainable fashion consultant.

Getting to be on the ground and really see, learn, and understand how the industries systems and supply chains work was the best experience I could have ever had to make me a thought leader today (ugh that sounds kind of conceded but I guess I kind of am with publications like Forbes, Sourcing Journal, and Business of Fashion quoting me, and SXSW asking me to be a speaker on the topic).

But, It Was Worth It

While looking back on it I am grateful for the journey, but the truth is, living it was hell. I would work 20 hours days. I once traveled for over 85 hours straight, never actually leaving the 9 different airports I stopped in along the way while taking my meetings in parking lots. One time I landed in New York after being away for 1 month, to receive a phone call from my boss a few hours later telling me to get on the next plane back to China.

And, these aren’t even the craziest stories I can tell.

Again, looking back on it all I am happy I did it and got such a unquie experience that so many people (even ones in the industry), do not have access to.

When I Was Ready To Leave

More fabric sourcing from the good old fast fashion days.

I knew I was ready to leave when my body couldn’t take the days without sleep and general stress anymore. By the end of my fast fashion career, I had gained 20 lbs, was losing my hair, had hormonal stress acne that would not go away, and when I got home had no motivation to do anything but sit in my bed, eat Seamless delivery, and cry.

By the time I left, the job was slowly killing me, but because I felt there was no more I could learn (I was already a Director level before the age of 30). And, I had saved up enough money that I had a nice safety cushion to start my consultancy business.

It was time to move on for so many reasons. And so, I did.

The 3 Promises I Made To My Self When I Left Fast Fashion + Started My Sustainable Fashion Consultant Business

I did get to have some fun when I worked in fast fashion, see some amazing places, and eat some unbelievable food. And, when I started working for myself as a sustainable fashion consultant, I promised myself a whole lost more of that.

After I left the industry I took 6 months off and traveled. I relaxed and recovered from a job that quite honestly makes The Devil Wears Prada look like a cakewalk. I remember seeing that movie before working in sourcing and product development and thinking wow that boss is horrible. By the time I left, that movie felt like a total joke, Meryl Streep’s character was a pussy cat compared to the beasts I had encountered in fast fashion.

After my 6 months off, I was ready. Armed with real working practical knowledge of the industry, I felt prepared to break it, and help rebuild it.

The day my website went live and I launched my sustainable fashion consultancy business, I made three promises to myself, all of which I still honor to this day.

Promise 1 – Educate

My first promise to myself was to educate people about how their clothing is made. My friends in the industry and I would go crazy reading information made up by influencers and believed by the public.

For consumers to demand real change in this industry they need to be dealing with hard facts, not clickbait or brand takedowns. The purpose behind everything I do at virtue + vice has always been to educate.

To educate consumers about how to shop, and to educate brands on how to create the best products possible. That is why my tagline is for brands and their customers – because, we are a full package sustainable and ethical manufacturing resource, that also gives curious consumers a behind-the-seams look at how fashion is made.

It’s education for everyone.

This blog has always been a priority for me. My goal is to give you the tools you need to understand the fashion industry. Then let you make your own decisions about how you want to participate in sustainable and ethical fashion. Whether you are brand deciding if recycled polyester or deadstock fabric is the right choice for you and your sustainability goals – or, a consumer that isn’t sure where to make their next purchase – I view my job as a sustainable fashion consultant as not to tell you what to do, but to give you the information you need to decide for yourself.

Promise 2 – Not To Be Everything To Everyone

What this means is that I will stick to my scruples. In fast fashion, I found myself so many times in questionable situations. Sometimes where I looked the other way because, at the time, that was all I could really do.

When I started my company and become a conscious fashion consultant, I promised myself that I would remain true to my values. And, part of this is the clients I choose to work with.

I actually turn away more clients than I work with.

Why Do I Turn So Many People Away?

Because I want to feel invested in the businesses that I help. I only want to work with people I like, and people who I believe in. For me, I don’t want my job to just be a paycheck. If that was the case I would go back to fast fashion), as cheesy as it sounds, I want to feel inspired every day.

I want to be just as excited as my clients are when they get their first samples. Or, when they ship their first sales. And, when they reach out to me in the middle of the night with urgent questions (because hey, this is fashion, and that just happens sometimes) I want to feel excited about helping them create a strategy and problem solve, not feel annoyed.

And, the way I stay excited about my business and the clients I help is by not being everything to everyone. I don’t change myself and who I am to fit the client (because honestly that is exhausting).

But, I do want to help as many people as possible. While a lot of new client discovery calls for sustainable fashion consulting end in me saying – this isn’t a good fit, I really do want to see those brands succeed, and that is why I create so much free content on here. I think everyone deserves a little help.

Promise 3 – Amplify Others

Before I entered the sustainable fashion space I watched the trolls and the cancel culture.

I am not down with cancel culture, and I vowed I would never be part of it. Here is what I think. There are only so many hours in a day, you can fill them trying to cancel and call out others or you can fill them trying to bring awareness to and amplify others. So, I choose to spend my time doing the second and creating a positive impact.

I believe in karma, and circular energy, what goes around, comes around – so only put good stuff out there. And, I expect the same from my clients too.

One of my original goals for virtue + vice was to create a platform for garment industry workers to speak directly to customers. And, thanks to my amazing partners all over the world, I have some really exciting content, direct from factories and artisans, to share with you in 2022.

We are all in This Together

That goes for work and career too. I am working with a young designer that wants to become a sustainable fashion consultant also. I have been helping her grow her business, referring her clients, and mentoring her. Helping the next generation is important to me. Helping other women start their dream businesses and sharing my knowledge with them to help them make it happen is why I am in this.

Even my “competitors” I don’t view as competition. In the United States alone, the fashion industry is worth 1.5 trillion dollars. There is more than enough room for all of us. And, new fashion companies, please believe me on this, sometimes the people you think were your biggest competitors end up becoming your trusted inner circle who help to lift you up too.

Fundamentally, I think that when you bring others up, it makes everyone stronger together and that is how real change happens.

Are You Thinking About A Career Change?

Every day I could not be happier that I left the world of fast fashion and started my business as a sustainable fashion consultant. And, part of the reason I opened up today, is I hope that my story give you hope and inspiration to make the jump in your own career.

What Do You Think?

I know for the past 4 years most of the content on this blog has been mostly informational, and get’s straight to business. But, do you want me to get more social and start sharing more about myself and my personal experiences in the fashion industry?

By the way, not all of my experiences were horrific in fast fashion. The images I chose to use for this article were of some great memories made with amazing supply chain partners. I choose to use these good memories while talking about the bad as a reminder to everyone that fast fashion is not all bad. There are good people, doing good things, and providing equitable work for people in this space. 

so, get ready to make fashion startup life a whole lot easier, and GRAB YOUR FREE DOWNLOAD OF THE NOT SO SECRET SOURCING DOC HERE

If You Need More Help…

In my 6-month mentorship program, I teach a full week that is dedicated to SEO. And, that is where I share all my super-secret tips on how I was able to get ranked in the top 5 for terms like fabric sourcing and sustainable manufacturing.

For now, I am going to give you 10 quick and easy, but powerful tips that you can implement today to increase your SEO for fashion ecommerce.

What Is Fashion SEO?

SEO stands for search engine optimization. Ok, but what does that even mean? If you don’t already know (and that is totally ok if you don’t) search engines are things like Google, Bing, and back in the good old day’s Ask Jeeves, ugh I miss that dude. The point of fashion SEO optimization is to get your website and your content to the first page of search engines so when people are looking for what you are selling you pop up first.

Honestly, I don’t know why more brands don’t focus on SEO. I see so many founders worried about Facebook ads, and manipulating the Instagram algorithm, or doing silly dances for TikTok, they forget to go old school and tap into one of the most powerful FREE traffic resources out there.

Tip 1 – Learn How SEO Works, Like, Really Works

A lot of people think that the point of SEO is to get as many people as possible to their blog. And, while yes, measuring the number of visitors to your blog, also called click-throughs, is an important metric to determine if your SEO efforts are working, there is something even more important you should be tracking.

That is how long those people are spending on your website. Before you get started on your SEO journey make sure to set up Google Analytics and Google Search Console. Keep in mind they both do different things. Google Analytics will tell you how much traffic you are getting your website, where is coming from, and how long people are staying on your site. Google Search Console will give you insight into the search engine keywords people are typing in that land them on your pages.

Pay Attention To Bounce Rate

You want to specifically look at a number called bounce rate. The bounce rate tells you how many people clicked on your website and quickly jumped off because your page didn’t have what they were looking for. You want to keep this number as low as possible.

So, remember, it’s not just how many people land on your pages, it’s how long they stay on your page. And, if they click around to other pages, Google thinks that is even better.

The good news is I have a few strategies for you to get people staying, and even clicking on your site. So, save your cash, skip the SEO services and experts, and let me teach you how to go the DIY route.

First – Create Helpful Content

Remember how I said it’s not so much how many people come to your website, but more about how long they stick around? The way to get them to stay longer is to create something helpful and captivating that they want to read.

There are companies out there that you can pay for “optimized” blog posts. But, the thing is those posts always sound like they were written by computers and/or people that might not really understand what you and your brand are all about. And, they often use old and outdated keyword stuffing techniques that end up actually hurting your SEO efforts (more on that later).

My recommendation to get started writing good content is to write it yourself. And really think, what would you want to read. Hint – I am sure it’s not another round-up with the title “Top 10 Sustainable Fashion Brands”. Get creative, and write about new things that are not only exciting for your readers to learn about, but also relevant to your brand.

Second – Be Keyword-Rich, Without Keyword Stuffing

The keyword is the search term you are targeting. For example, your keyword might be navy sustainable sundress. So, you definitely want that search term to come up a few times on your page.

When the keyword is in more than 1 place, that signals to Google that your article is about that topic, and maybe deserves to be ranked.

The first place you should definitely have the keyword is your main title. You should also put it in at least 1 subtitle. Lastly, the keyword should be included in the meat of the article a few times, but not too many. When the keyword comes up too many times this is called keyword stuffing and Google will penalize you for it.

A safe rule that I like to use, is to have the keyword a total (including heading and subheading) 3-4 times per 1000 words.

Third – Get Started Right Now

It takes time for Google to rank you. Generally, websites that have been around for longer tend to rank easier. So, even if your product is not ready, get that website up and running asap, and start creating content. The content you create can be about anything – lifestyle or your startup journey are two great topics to start with.

Really, as soon as you can start writing and start posting, because the sooner you do, the sooner you will rank.

Lastly, SEO Is A Marathon Not A Sprint

The other thing to keep in mind is that SEO takes time. Like, a lot of time, and that is why many people get discouraged and stop their efforts. On average it takes 6 months or more for an article to rank on the 1st page of Google. So, don’t feel discouraged and give up. Remember you are in this for the long haul, and I promise your efforts today will pay off 1 year from now.

Tip 2 – Learn To Think Like Your Customer

This is a time when you should go back to all the branding and customer avatar work you did. It is going to be super helpful for this next exercise. Learning to think like your customer is the beginning of your keyword research.

What is your target customer typing into google? And, don’t say sustainable fashion. This keyword is almost impossible to rank for because of the high competition. Think about the long-tail keywords they might be searching for.

A longtail keyword is just what it sounds like, a keyword with a lot of words in it. So, instead of sustainable fashion, you might try sustainable fashion sold in Boulder, Colorado.

Let’s look more at the fashion ecommerce store example of navy sustainable sundress I gave earlier. Navy dress is a super competitive keyword because it is generic, but the longer and more detailed your keyword gets, the less competition it will tend to have.

The other thing is that by focusing on long-tail keywords you are helping your customer find exactly what they need. They don’t just want any navy dress, they want a navy sustainable sundress, and you just so happen to be selling exactly that!

If you are having trouble thinking of longtail keywords to focus on, Google can help you with this research – here’s how.

Finding Longtail Keywords

Type into google the keyword you are thinking about. Let’s keep using the example navy sustainable sundress.

Look At The Titles

The first thing you want to do is look at the websites that are popping up on page 1. Read their titles, and analyze them. Do they maybe all have something in common? You can use the titles of the search results to find even more keyword phrases to focus on.

The articles that come up for navy sustainable sundresses are –

• 15 Affordable Ethical Dresses for Summer — The Honest …
• 22 Affordable Ethical Dresses for the Minimalist — Sustainably …
• 12 Fair Trade & Ethically Made Dresses We’re Eyeing For …
• 12 Best Sustainable Party Dresses – Good On You
• 7 Online Stores Offering Stylish, Sustainable and Ethical …
• 8 Ethical Alternatives to Old Navy Update for 2020 – DoneGood
• Navy Bodycon Side Split Dress: Fairtrade and Organic – Know …
• Reformation: Sustainable Women’s Clothing and Accessories

Here is the interesting thing with this search – non of the websites that show up for navy sustainable sundress are brands. They are all bloggers, magazines, and online publications. The second interesting thing is that none of them actually contain the keyword navy sustainable sundress in the title.

So, what does this mean for you and your SEO fashion plan? By writing optimized content with your keyword in the title, and specifically about your keyword only, you might just be able to rank for this!

Ideas For New Content

The other thing you can do with this info is to use it for research on other keywords you could, and maybe should be targeting. I good idea might be to write a listicle of 10 Sustainable Dresses and include yours on the list.

But, there is, even more, we can take from Google to learn about how our customer thinks.

Make Your Keyword A Question

The first thing to do is turn your keyword into questions. So, instead of navy sustainable sundress, now try googling, “where can I buy a navy sustainable sundresses”.

Scroll down past the first couple of results and you will see a section called “People also ask” with about 4 alternative questions. For this example they are –

• Where can I buy ethical dresses?
• Where can I buy eco-friendly clothing?
• What brands are sustainable?
• What are the worst fast fashion brands?

Google is literally telling you what your ideal customer is googling! And therefore, what you should try to rank for.

And, pro-tip, if you click on each question, even more, will show up. Use these questions that people are also asking to help guide you to create more longtail keywords to target for your SEO plan.

One Last Place For Keyword Inspo

There is one more place on google to find keywords.
Next, scroll all the way to the bottom of the page. And, you will see a “related search” section.

For this example of we learn that other similar searches would be
sustainable dresses

• affordable sustainable dresses
• sustainable clothing
• reformation dresses
• sustainable womens dresses
• affordable ethical clothing
• sustainable cotton dresses

To Recap

From one single keyword that you thought of (navy sustainable sundress), by using google search you now have now found 11 more keywords to help create a super targeted SEO campaign. And, all of them are highly relevant and exactly what your customer is searching for in Google.

Tip 3 – Optimize Your On-Page SEO

What Is On Page Seo?

On page SEO is what you can do on your website to increase your chances of getting ranked on Google’s algorithms. For more advanced on page fashion SEO you might need to know a bit of coding. But, here is the good news, I am going to teach you the basics and you can implement them into your website and content immediately.

Follow The Rules

Google likes you to follow their rules. There are rules for how long your title should be, how you should break down your post with subtitles, writing a meta description, and even how you craft your URLs. If you follow their rules on your website, the chances of your ranking greatly increase.

Here is a secret. Even though I use Shopify for my website, I have a secondary WordPress account that I use to help me with on-page SEO. I then transfer everything over to the Shopify site once I create it on WordPress.

Try Yoast

I am not an SEO expert, but I have not been able to find a tool for optimization quite as powerful and WordPress Yoast. Please, if you have suggestions for Shopify, let me know.

When you plug your content into Yoast, it tells you exactly what you need to change to make Google like your content.

If you can’t or don’t want to get Yoast, here are the basics of what you can do right now.

Be Simple

Use short sentences, and write like you are talking to a 5th grader, no fancy SAT words here. Keep sentences 15 words or fewer.

Write A Lot

For me, the minimum word count per post I use is 2,000 words. That is because on average, on all of google, pages that make it to the first page, generally have at least 2,000 words in them. If you can, try to write even more.

Use Your Keywords In Different Ways

For example, if your keyword is fashion SEO, you can also use terms in your article like SEO for fashion ecommerce. Get creative, and instead of using the same keyword over and over again, try using variations of it.

Use Lots Of Subheadings

It keeps your writing organized, and it helps keep people reading. Also, google does not like long chunks of text. The general rule is at least 3 subheadings per 500 words.

Tip 4 – Make Friends To Increase Your Off Page SEO

We just talked about what you can do on your own page to increase your SEO performance. Now, here is what you can do off your page to help boost your SEO ranking power even more.

It’s All About Backlinks

What are backlinks?

Backlinks are links on other people’s websites that link back to your website and content. Getting backlinks, for many, is one of the hardest parts of fashion SEO. But, I have developed a 3 step plan to help you get them.

Step 1 – Create Really Good Content

Like I said earlier, it’s not just about how long your content is, it’s about how helpful it is. When you write really good content, and not just more of the same old stuff, people will naturally want to share what it is you are creating.

That is actually how I got featured in Sourcing Journal for the first time. My article on deadstock fabric completely changed the way the sustainable fashion community thought about deadstock fabric. It was so unique it was able to rise to the top of Google’s search results and become number one. Once it was number one, publications including Sourcing Journal, started reaching out to me for quotes.

Pretty amazing right? Not only did good fashion SEO help me get to the top of Google, but it also helped me to become a go-to media expert on the topic.

Step 2 – Include Links To Others Websites

It’s not all about you. I think that to succeed and be a leader in a space, you often need to give more than you take (that is why I give away so much free stuff on this blog).

So link to other relevant companies on the topic you are writing about. Spread that backlink love. And, I promise there will be something in it for you too.

Step 3 – Make New Internet Friends

Write an email to everyone you mentioned in your article and let them know you are talking about them. Often, when you are talking about other people, they want to let everyone know what people are saying about them and end up backlinking back to you and your content. #meta

Not only have I gotten a ton of backlinks using this method, but I have also made some new friends!

Here is the email template I send.

Hello __,

My name is _. I am the founder, product developer, designers, etc (who ever you are) of the brand _. I just wanted to let you know that I featured you in my latest blog post __ (blog post title, and hyperlink to it).

(keep the rest of your email short, and follow this general guide)

• Sentence one, intro: Tell them why you respect them and why you chose to feature them in your article.
• In sentence two: Tell them what you featured them specifically about.
• Sentence three, be friendly: Tell them you would love to stay in touch.
• Sentence four, closing: Ask (nicely + politely) if they would not mind sharing your article and spreading the love.

Thank you for your time,

your name
website link
social media link
press link

To Recap

And there you go, it’s that simple to get backlinks. Create great content, link to people and brands you admire, then reach out to them and try to make a new friend.

Tip 5 – Speaking Of Off-Page Fashion Seo – Make Your Content Easy To Share For Even Better Results

The easier your content is to share the more it will get shared. It’s really is as simple as installing a button, and asking your audience. Tip 5 is one of the easiest tips to implement with only 2 steps, but is also one of the most powerful.

Step 1 – Install Social Sharing Buttons

Shopify will do this automatically for you. But, if you are coding your own custom website, make sure to tell your website developers to code this in.

This way sharing your content becomes as easy as someone clicking on the icon.

You will see at the bottom of virtue + vice I have icons to share on Facebook, Twitter, and Pinterest.

Step 2 – Don’t Forget To Ask

Just because you have the buttons there, it doesn’t mean that your readers will know what to do with them. So, let them know. At the end of our articles direct them to click the icons, and please share on social.

Tip 6 – Think About Mobility

According to Google, over 50 percent of Google searches come from a mobile device. So with all the traffic coming from phones, you definitely want to think about a good mobile user experience.

Personally, I feel like at least 80% of my google searches are on my phone. But hey, that is just me.

Google realizes that more and more people are using their smartphones, so they are starting to prioritize web pages that are mobile-friendly.

I know, I am a big fan of Shopify (at this point I feel like they should be paying me), but they make it super easy. All of Shopify’s templates automatically integrate to make near-perfect mobile experiences.

Again, if you are having your website custom made (which I really don’t recommend doing, because Shopify is so easy to DIY) remember to let your web design team know that the mobile experience is extremely important to you.

Try testing your mobile-friendliness with this site – https://search.google.com/test/mobile-friendly

Tip 7 – Be Human

Google tends to favor content that sounds like a person talking. A few years back companies started trying to have AI write their content. They thought they could hack the algorithm and produce a ton of content without any effort. Google realized what was going on, and now they are really good at recognizing what it sounds like to “be human”.

A great way to “write” content that Google will love is to actually use a voice-to-text translation service (it’s free on Google Docs). This way you can speak like normal, and your words will be transcribed into text.

I think a big part of my fashion SEO success, is that I take really complex topics that I learned while getting my degree in textile engineering, and break them down so they are super simple for everyone to understand.

Not only does google like my easy to read, and relatable writing, but my actual readers like it too, and keep coming back for more.

Tip 8 – Get The Conversation Going

Engagement is important.

End Your Post With A Call To Action

Ask your audience a question and encourage them to leave a response in the comments. The comments section is a great way to strengthen the relationship between you and your readers. When you get to chatting via the comments your readers really get to know you, and you, your readers. And, that keeps them coming back again and again.

And, remember what I said all the way back on Tip 1? It’s all about getting people back to your site and having them stick around.

Tip 9 – Drive Your Own Traffic

Get Social

Use all of your platforms to drive traffic to your website. Instagram, TikTok, Pinterest, LinkedIn – all of those places.

The trick is to post teasers of your content, and then encourage readers to click the link which will direct them to your website to learn more. By doing this you not only get more traffic to your page, which, as I already mentioned, Google loves, but, you also create backlinks via social media channels.

Now, these social media signals don’t count as much as backlinks from a website. But, they do count for something and they do help.

Email Marketing

The other place that it’s crucial to share your content is to your email list. Think about it, your email list is literally a list of people who decided to sign up so they could hear more from you. Of course, you should keep them in the loop with the new content you create, and encourage them to pop back on your website to read it.

And, as a bonus, not only are you getting traffic to your website, but you are getting repeat traffic. This is another thing the Google Gods favor. They like to see that the same people are coming back to your website time and time again.

Tip 10 – Be Patient

I know it’s hard. But, I promise if you do the work, eventually it will pay off.

I am going to get personal for a moment. My family has always been very supportive of everything I do, but when I started investing my time in writing content to work on fashion SEO strategy, they just didn’t get it. I spent months, writing, and writing, and writing. And, all they could say were things like. Why are you writing so much, it doesn’t make you money? And, do you want to work in the fashion industry or be a writer?

They just didn’t get it.

But, I told them, talk to me in a year, because this was all going to pay off. To be fair, I didn’t know if it would, but I believed it would. And a big part of the reason I believed in fashion SEO so much was because of my friend Rachel of the blog Hippie In Heels. She grew her blog over a few years from zero to almost a million readers a month just by focusing on SEO. She gave me hope that I could do it too.

And, I did it!

Let me be your case study – this is possible! You don’t need a digital marketing degree. The truth is, you can do this for your own company to help grow your business to the next level.

Bonus

1 more tip, because you know I always like to give you more than I promised. Here is a list of some of my favorite fashion SEO tools that I use myself to help get you started!

Surprise Challenge

Congratulations. I know this blog post was a long one, but you made it to the end. So, here is the surprise challenge.

Step 1

Take a look at your Google Console and Google Analytics now – and record all your metrics.

Step 2

Over the next month, implement all the tips listed in this article. I know it is going to take a while to get through all of them. But, keep at it!

Step 3

1 month after implementing all the tips go back into your Google Consoles and Google Analytics and check out where your metrics are now. Did they go up? I bet they did!

Tell Me About Your Fashion SEO

In the comments please tell me about your SEO efforts, and how it is going!

so, get ready to make fashion startup life a whole lot easier, and GRAB YOUR FREE DOWNLOAD OF THE NOT SO SECRET SOURCING DOC HERE

Clothing Sample Makers, Sample Room,Factory Line

Let’s start with the three basics.

Purpose Of A Sample Maker

A sample maker is someone (usually local) that will make a clothing prototype for you. They are generally independent of factories. Their job is to sew a garment for you based on what you design, and the supplies you bring them.

What A Sample Room Does

A sample room is a room in a factory that is dedicated to making samples. Before a garment goes into fashion production a series of different samples must be made and approved. Working with a factory sample room comes after working with a sample maker.

Once your proto is finished you send it to the factory where you will then go through up to 5 rounds of product development sampling including.
FIT SAMPLES – check the fit and construction of your garments
COMPONENT APPROVALS – approve all components to be used in your garment
COLOR + PRINT APPROVALS – make sure the colors and prints are just right
SMS, Sales Man Samples – a sample that should represent exactly what you will get in production
SIZE SET SAMPLES – to check the graded specs
GPT SAMPLES, Garment Production Testing – this sample goes to a lab for testing like colorfastness, waterproof rating, etc

Factory Line Samples AKA Production Samples

A quick tip about working with a sample room. This is generally where the best sewers work. So, remember to keep that in mind as your product moves from development stages to production. To make sure everything is perfect in production, part of your quality production plan should be to also include various stages of production samples. Just keep this in mind, we will get to all the different kinds of development and production samples another day.

Recap

So, recap there are 3 stages of sample making. They are, working with a sample maker to create prototypes, working with a sample room to create counter samples, and then finally working with the production line to create production samples to ensure bulk quality standards.

It is very important to follow this order. If you try to go out of order you will end up wasting not only time but also money.

Let’s look deeper into the first stage, working with a sample maker to create protos.

How To Work With A Sample Maker

Have your pattern ready.

You need to hire a pattern maker to make your pattern and cutters must. A cutters must is basically the instruction manual to your pattern. It lets the sample maker know how many pieces need to be cut, and in what fabric.

Generally, the job of sample makers is only to sew everything together. But, in some cases, sample makers will also offer pattern services. Make sure to be clear about who is developing the pattern and cutters must.

The sample maker will then make a prototype using the pattern, and all the materials you gave them.

Remember you are responsible for giving your sample maker everything necessary to make the garment.

What Are The Benefits Of Working With A Sample Maker?

Work Directly For Easy Communication

If you are working with a local sample maker it will generally make communication a lot easier. If this is your first time creating a garment from scratch, you might find it hard to explain what it is you want. The fashion industry has a whole dictionary of words that you have probably never heard of before so using the right terminology to get your point across can be difficult at first.

By working with someone local to make your proto you can go and visit them in person to have working sessions. I have been in this industry for over a decade now, and even I still find it easier to work with people in person.

Test Concepts

If you are a brand that is inventing something totally new that has never been done before, you definitely might want to work with a local sample room. As I mentioned before working with someone in person just makes everything so much easier.

By working locally you can quickly and easily make 2, 3, 4, or even more prototypes in the time it might take your factory sample room just to make 1.

Give Your Factory Something To Copy

When you have a proto you can send it to your factory and tell them to copy it exactly, fewer mistakes will happen. Most factories are actually really good at copying. So, when you send something for a factory to copy it mitigates your risk of things going wrong, and needing to sample multiple times to get it just right.

Helps To Create A Perfect Tech Pack + Spec Sheets

Here is the truth. In over 10 years of me working in fashion, I have never seen a perfect tech pack.

Never. Ever.

And, the scary thing is that small mistakes could cause huge quality issues in your garment if you are not careful. When you have a proto and you are able to give that to your tech team it helps them to make fewer mistakes and create accurate tech packs that will help you get your product made perfectly.

Micro Production

If you are doing a micro-production run a sample maker might do it for you.

This is great when you are just starting out. You might want to make only a few pieces to test the market and get customer feedback. Your sample maker might be able to help you with a micro-production run of just a few trial pieces.

Yes, making a few samples will be more expensive than making 100. But remember this. It’s better to sell out of 3 pieces than use a factory to make 100. Then, when you know your customers love them, you can make 100 pieces. Imagine making 100 pieces right out of the gate and have them sitting in your closet for 2 years because customers wish they were just a little bit different, and now it’s too late to make changes.

What Are The Cons Of Working With A Sample Maker?

They Don’t Always Have The Same Machines As The Factory

Sample makers sometimes have limited machines, which can create problems with the types of stiches used.

The other thing is, clothes sample makers generally work much slower than a factory. Sometimes factories use quicker techniques to produce your product faster and save money. When they do this, the overall effect could be a cheaper look, that might not be right for your brand.

Be careful with the machines and types of seams your factory plans to use, and always make sure to have a conversation with your factory about what will be used.

Expensive

I am not going to sugarcoat it, sample makers are expensive. There is just no way around it. The reason brands spend the extra money to use a sample maker is for all of the pros above.

Can Be Slow

Sample makes and sample rooms are slammed right now. A lot of sample units switched gears back in March 2020 to start producing masks. The reality is, mask making is kind of what saved a lot of these small business owners. And most of them, even though the fashion industry is back and booming are still making masks as a side hustle because they are easy to make and the margins are great.

I always say to be clear about timelines and deliverables. But, even with super clarity, always plan to add on a week or two. Unfortunately, that is just the way this industry is, if I could wave a magic wand and change that, I would.

Can You Skip The Proto?

That is up to you. You need to do what is right for you and your brand, your product, and your budget.

Quick Tips When Working With A Sample Maker

Get Referrals

Before you work with anyone, including your sample maker, get referrals. Ask for brands that they have worked with before. And, chat with a few people first to hear about their experience. If a sample maker won’t give you references, run, don’t walk away.

Make 2 Protos

Why two? One is for you to keep. What if your proto gets lost in the mail? What if your factory loses it? It’s always good to have a backup.

Also, it’s nice to have something on hand when you facetime or zoom with a factory so you can both be looking at the same thing at the same time.

Ask Your Pattern Maker For Help Finding A Sample Maker

If you are having trouble finding a sample maker, try asking your pattern maker. Your pattern maker most likely has a few sample makers and industry connections they have been working with for years, and would be happy to refer you.

Make The Proto Before The Teck Pack

Remember how I said that protos made by sample makers can be super helpful for making your tech packs? Keep that in mind, and make sure your prototypes are made before you try to make your factory tech packs.

Or, you can try making your tech pack yourself with one of my favorite industry tools, Techpacker.

What Do You Think?

Are you going to use a sample maker for your garment prototypes? Or, skip it and move straight to the factory sample room?