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  • WTF Fun Fact 13114 – The Eiffel Tower is Taller in Summer

    WTF Fun Fact 13114 – The Eiffel Tower is Taller in Summer

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    The Eiffel Tower is taller in summer (it also shrinks in the winter). The reason? Thermal expansion (and contraction).

    How is the Eiffel Tower taller in summer?

    At 330 meters high, you won’t be able to tell just by looking at it that the Eiffel Tower grows by 15 centimeters in the summer. At 132 years old, the Tower spent 42 glorious years as the world’s tallest building. And the structure wasn’t even meant to be permanent.

    The Eiffel tower is made of iron, puddled iron (or wrought iron) to be exact. And to be even more precise, it’s puddled iron from the Forges de Pompey near Nancy, France.

    At the time, architect Gustave Eiffel had relied heavily on iron and had not worked with steel in any significant way in his architecture. Of course, steel does not change during temperature fluctuations, whereas iron does.

    The growing and shrinking Tower

    According to the structure’s tourism website (cited below):

    “When temperatures rise, the Tower increases in size! This is a natural physical phenomenon called thermal expansion. Heat causes an increase in volume that makes the Eiffel Tower a few centimeters taller. This expansion also causes the Tower to tilt slightly away from the sun. The sun only hits one of the 4 sides of the Tower creating an imbalance with the other 3 sides, that remain stable, thus causing the Eiffel Tower to lean. In this way, the sun’s movement over the course of a clear day can cause the top of the Tower to move in a more or less circular curve measuring approximately 15 centimeters in diameter.”

    You probably can’t see it in your photos, but you read that right – the Tower does lean slightly in the summer since the sun only hits one side directly, causing it to expand.

    This expansion goes away when the sun isn’t strong.

    Thermal contraction is a winter problem. During the cold months, the metal structure shrinks from its normal height.

    You might think all this contracting and shrinking causes the iron to become weaker, but the Tower is so large that there’s no risk of cracking. It was also built to withstand wind. In fact, it was designed to sway with the wind (or at least vibrate) to avoid structural damage.  WTF fun facts

    Source: “Why does the Eiffel Tower change size?” — Toureiffel.paris

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    WTF

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  • Weird Facts

    Weird Facts

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    Boxer Jack Johnson was once pulled over for a $50 speeding ticket and gave the officer a $100 bill. When the officer said he couldn’t provide change, Johnson told him to keep it as he would make his return trip at the same speed.

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  • What Makes Swear Words So $#%+@&! Offensive? Scientists Have Found a Clue

    What Makes Swear Words So $#%+@&! Offensive? Scientists Have Found a Clue

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    Swear words are a powerful function of human language—so powerful that we aren’t supposed to say them, at least not in polite company. The right expletives, unleashed at the right moment, can be used to cause hurt or offense. They facilitate the expression of intense emotions. They may even help us better tolerate pain, as anyone who has yelped a curse word after stubbing a toe knows.

    But why are certain words considered so profane that we feel the need to bleep them on TV and scold our kids for using them? According to a colorful new study in Psychonomic Bulletin & Review, which analyzed swear words across multiple languages, the way curse words sound—or don’t sound—may make them offensive to the human ear.

    At the heart of the study is a fundamental question in the field of linguistics: Is language arbitrary? An established convention holds that yes, the relationship between the sound of words and their meanings is typically random. But some experts have challenged this notion, positing that certain sounds are “intrinsically associated with certain meanings,” write study authors Shiri Lev-Ari and Ryan McKay from Royal Holloway, University of London. Across many languages, for example, the word for nose is likely to include the nasal sound “n.” 

    Research has also shown that English swear words have a higher proportion of p, t, and k sounds, which are known as plosives. But, Lev-Ari and McKay wondered, is this just a quirk of English?

    Searching for patterns among the world’s naughtiest words, the researchers asked fluent speakers of five unrelated languages—Hebrew, Hindi, Hungarian, Korean, and Russian—to list at least five of the most vulgar words in their language, excluding racial slurs. The study’s authors did not find a higher incidence of plosives in these expletives. But they did observe that the words in their data set were less likely to include approximants—sounds that include l, r, w and y—than might be expected by chance. Words containing these sounds, the authors theorize, may be less “suitable” for causing offense.

    The researchers next recruited 215 people to listen to pairs of words in an unfamiliar language and indicate which one was the swear word. Unbeknownst to the participants, all the word pairs were imaginary, created by the study authors to include one word with an approximant and one without. Participants were more likely to guess that the words without approximants were profanity.

    In the final phase of their study, the researchers looked at minced oaths—variations of English swear words that are considered less offensive, like “darn” as an alternative to “damn.” Approximants appeared more frequently in minced oaths than in the swear words themselves, suggesting once again that l, r, w and y don’t have the prickly effect of other sounds

    “It may be that approximants are sound-symbolically associated with calm and contentment,” Lev-Ari and McKay write, “and so are unsuitable for giving offense.” In any case, the researchers conclude, the absence of approximants in expletives suggests there is a universal pattern to swearing—and when it comes to words that would make your grandma blush, sounds like l, r, w and y just don’t pack the right damn punch.

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    Brigit Katz

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  • How A Troubled 14-Year-Old Murdered His Math Teacher In A School Bathroom — Then Carted Her Corpse Away In A Trash Can

    How A Troubled 14-Year-Old Murdered His Math Teacher In A School Bathroom — Then Carted Her Corpse Away In A Trash Can

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    Philip Chism was just 14 when he murdered his 24-year-old math teacher Colleen Ritzer at Danvers High School before dumping her corpse behind the school.

    Getty ImagesPhilip Chism was just 14 when he brutalized and murdered his math teacher Colleen Ritzer.

    On Oct. 22, 2013, a ninth grader at Danvers High School in Massachusetts named Philip Chism did the unthinkable. At just 14, he brutalized his 24-year-old math teacher, Colleen Ritzer.

    The reportedly joyful Ritzer was known to go out of her way to help her students with math and had asked Chism to stay after school that fateful day in October. She did not know the plot Chism had put into motion days before.

    At the end of the school day, Chism followed Ritzer into a school toilet. Wielding a box cutter, Chism robbed, raped and killed her, then rolled her body in a garbage can to the woods behind the school. Chism then took himself into town and bought a movie ticket using Ritzer’s credit card.

    When police caught him the following morning, Chism had not washed his hands — and still had Ritzer’s blood all over them.

    Who Was Philip Chism?

    Philip Chism was born on Jan. 21, 1999. In the fall of 2013, Chism had recently moved from Tennessee to Danvers, Massachusetts, where he wasn’t that well known at the school apart from being a good soccer player. One report did refer to him as “anti-social” and “really tired and out of it.” It was also reported that his mother was going through a difficult divorce at the time of the crime.

    Colleen Ritzer

    ABC NewsColleen Ritzer was just 24 when she was murdered. She is remembered by faculty and family as a caring teacher.

    Ritzer, meanwhile, was a beloved member of the faculty. According to one struggling student, she was always positive and happy. “She made me feel like I wanted to go to math class,” they reported to The New York Times.

    And Chism was no exception to her. A student overheard Ritzer complimenting Chism on his drawing skills at the end of class and then requested that he stay after school so she could help him prepare for an upcoming test.

    Chism then reportedly grew visibly upset at Ritzer when she mentioned his move from Tennessee, according to Boston Magazine. Ritzer consequently changed the subject, but the student witness later observed Chism apparently talking to himself.

    Hours later, he committed the unthinkable.

    The Brutal Murder Of Colleen Ritzer

    Philip Chism CCTV

    Danvers HS Surveillance VideoFootage of Chism from the school’s CCTV camera on the day he killed Ritzer.

    On the morning of Oct. 22, 2013, the Danvers High School’s newly-installed security camera system showed 14-year-old Chism arriving at school with several bags, which he placed into his locker. Contained within his bags were a box cutter, mask, gloves, and a change of clothing.

    According to The New York Times, the school security footage showed Ritzer exiting the classroom toward the second-floor women’s bathroom at around 2:54 p.m.

    Chism can then be seen walking into the hallway looking her way, then ducking back into the classroom and reemerging with his hood over his head. Trailing Ritzer, Chism pulled on gloves as he entered the same bathroom.

    Chism proceeded to rob Ritzer of her credit cards, iPhone, and her underwear, before raping and stabbing her 16 times in the neck with the box cutter. A female student entered the bathroom at one point, but glimpsing someone partially unclothed with a pile of garments on the floor, she quickly left thinking they were getting changed.

    Chism appeared in several different outfits throughout the crime, which police later said showed how he’d planned the murder in advance. At 3:07 p.m., Chism left the bathroom with a hood over his head and walked outside to the parking lot. When he came back in two minutes later, he was wearing a new white T-shirt.

    Chism then went back to the classroom in a different red hooded sweatshirt over his head, then returned to the bathroom at 3:16 p.m. pulling a recycling bin. He reemerged in the white T-shirt and a black mask, pulling the bin with Ritzer’s body toward an elevator and then outside of the school.

    He dragged the bin all the way to a wooded area behind the school, where he raped Ritzer’s lifeless body again, but with a tree branch.

    Cameras then picked Chism up coming back into the school, wearing a black shirt and glasses and carrying a pair of bloody jeans, completing his macabre fashion show.

    Justice For Ritzer’s Family

    Colleen Ritzer In Bin

    Danvers Police/Public DomainChism pulls Ritzer’s body outside school.

    When neither Chism nor Ritzer were seen after school, they were both reported missing. After speaking with students and staff at the school, police found blood in the bathroom, Ritzer’s bag, the bloody recycling bin, and Ritzer’s bloodied clothing near the cross-country path the woods behind the school.

    By 11:45 p.m., the CCTV footage was acquired and scoured — and Chism became a suspect. Meanwhile, Chism used Ritzer’s credit card to buy a movie ticket, then left the theater to steal a knife from another store. He was walking along a darkened highway outside Danvers, when he was stopped by police on a routine safety call at 12:30 a.m.

    A frisk search of Chism for identification turned up Ritzer’s credit card and driver’s license. Chism was taken to the local station where his backpack was searched and Ritzer’s purse and underwear were found, alongside the box cutter covered with dried blood.

    According to court documents, when Chism was asked whose blood it was, he said, “It’s the girl’s.” When asked if he knew where she was, he chillingly replied, “She’s buried in the woods.”

    At 3 a.m., police discovered the gruesome sight of Ritzer’s half naked body covered with leaves near a pair of stained white gloves. A branch had to be pulled from her vagina, and a folded handwritten note lay nearby worded, “I hate you all.”

    Philip Chism was indicted for the murder, aggravated rape, and armed robbery of Colleen Ritzer. He was tried as an adult, and on Feb. 26, 2016, he was sentenced to serve at least 40 years in prison.


    After learning the disturbing story of Philip Chism, read about how Maddie Clifton was brutally murdered by her 14-year-old neighbor. Then, learn the chilling case of Daniel LaPlante, the boy who lived in his victim’s walls.

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    Neil Patmore

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  • 11 Hit Songs That Reference Great Works of Literature

    11 Hit Songs That Reference Great Works of Literature

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    Artists have been taking inspiration from each other since time immemorial, and musicians are no different. Here are a few of the many songs that reference literature in genres from hip hop to classic rock.

    The Roots named their fourth studio album after the novel Things Fall Apart by legendary Nigerian writer Chinua Achebe, and the song “100% Dundee” refers to both the novel and Achebe by name. The band was introduced to Things Fall Apart by Rich Nichols, their late manager and producer, who said that Tariq Trotter (a.k.a. Black Thought) reminded him of one of the book’s characters. “I went out to get the book,” Questlove explained in 2019, “and Rich explained to me that Tariq was basically a very skilled warrior lost on his own homeland.”

    Taylor Swift, who frequently references books in her songs, seems to have adapted a famous line from F. Scott’s Fitzgerald’s The Great Gatsby in evermore’s “happiness”: “I hope she’ll be a beautiful fool / Who takes my spot next to you.” This echoes Daisy Buchanan’s hopes for her daughter Pammy in The Great Gatsby: “I hope she’ll be a fool—that’s the best thing a girl can be in this world, a beautiful little fool.”

    Swift also references a “green light,” in “happiness,” recalling the green light on Daisy and Tom’s dock in Gatsby. Swift previously referenced the novel in Reputation’s “This Is Why We Can’t Have Nice Things” when she sang, “Feeling so Gatsby for that whole year.”

    The Smiths’ work contains multitudes of literary references; perhaps their most overt homage is within the 1984 B-side “How Soon Is Now.” The opening—“I am the son / And the heir / Of a shyness that is criminally vulgar / I am the son and heir / Of nothing in particular”—is an adaptation of part of a line from George Eliot’s novel Middlemarch: “To be born the son of a Middlemarch manufacturer, and inevitable heir to nothing in particular.”

    The song’s title is also a literary reference; it was taken from a line in Marjorie Rosen’s feminist film history book, Popcorn Venus: Women, Movies & the American Dream, in which she writes, “How immediately can we be gratified? How soon is now?”

    “Killing an Arab”—which has unsurprisingly courted controversy over the years due to people taking its title literally—tells a condescended version of the plot of L’Étranger (The Stranger) by philosopher Albert Camus, in which the main character kills a Middle Eastern man on a beach. The Cure frontman Robert Smith has expressed regret about the song’s title, telling Chart Attack in 2001 that “One of the themes of the song is that everyone’s existence is pretty much the same. Everyone lives, everyone dies, our existences are the same. It’s as far from a racist song as you can write. It seems though that no one can get past the title and that’s incredibly frustrating. The fact is it’s based on a book that’s set in France and deals with the problems of the Algerians, so it was only geographical reasons why it was an Arab and not anyone else.”

    Considered a classic of both gay and Chicano literature, John Rechy’s semiautobiographical 1963 novel City of Night—about a unnamed gay hustler traveling across 1950s America—has been cited as an influence by many artists, including Gus van Sant (who said it helped shape his film My Own Private Idaho) and David Bowie (who wrote a cover blurb for the book’s 50th anniversary edition). The Doors can also be counted among the book’s many fans: The band—whose name was derived from the title of Aldous Huxley’s book The Doors of Perception, which was itself taken from William Blake’s The Marriage of Heaven and Hellused the title of Rechy’s book in the 1971 hit “L.A. Woman.” The band’s drummer, John Densmore, was also part of a panel at UCLA discussing the book’s legacy for its 50th anniversary in 2013.

    In the liner notes for “Make Love Stay,” Fogelberg wrote that the song is “a musical question that, unfortunately, eludes me still.” Tom Robbins’s 1980 novel Still Life With Woodpecker—about the romance between an anarchist and a princess—is also about finding an answer to that question, which is asked repeatedly in the book.

    From The Police to The Veronicas, many musical artists have made allusions to Vladimir Nabokov’s infamous 1955 novel Lolita in their songs, but none expressed as much obsession with the book as Lana Del Rey. Rolling Stone noted that her 2012 album Born to Die contained “loads of Lolita references.” Among them are the songs “Lolita” and “Off to the Races,” which uses the novel’s famous lines, “Light of my life / Fire of my loins” in its chorus.

    George Orwell’s dystopian novel 1984 is another book popular with musicians, showing up in songs by everyone from Stevie Wonder to the Dead Kennedys. “Testify,” from Rage Against the Machine’s 1999 album The Battle of Los Angeles, is one of the most explicit examples. The song features a version of one of the party slogans of 1984’s government: “Who controls the past now controls the future / Who controls the present now controls the past.” In both the book and the song, the phrase indicates that the government and the media control the narrative by controlling which events are talked about.

    The Velvet Underground (whose members took its name from a nonfiction book by journalist Michael Leigh) found inspiration for “Venus in Furs” in Leopold von Sacher-Masoch’s classic novel about sadomasochism. The title refers to the book’s framing story, in which a man tells a friend about a dream where he meets the goddess Venus draped in fur.

    In her popular tribute to Emily Brontë’s Wuthering Heights, Kate Bush tells the story from the point of view of Cathy as she stands at the window of Heathcliff’s house begging to be let in, even echoing some of Cathy’s lines from the novel. “Really what sparked that off was a TV thing I saw as a young child,” Bush later said. “I just walked into the room and caught the end of [Wuthering Heights]. And I am sure one of the reasons it stuck so heavily in my mind was because of the spirit of Cathy and as a child I was called Cathy, it later changed to Kate. It was just a matter of exaggerating all my bad areas, because she’s a really vile person, she’s just so headstrong and passionate and … crazy, you know?”

    This isn’t the only song that Wuthering Heights has inspired: Jim Steinman wrote his iconic song “It’s All Coming Back to Me Now”—which was first recorded in 1989 by Pandora’s Box and then in 1996 by Celine Dion, whose version reached No. 2 on Billboard’s Hot 100 and went two times platinum— “while under the influence of Wuthering Heights, which is one of my favorite books,” he wrote on his website. He strove to have the song capture the book’s themes of obsessive love, comparing the end result to “an erotic motorcycle.”

    The music video version of BTS’s song “Blood Sweat & Tears” was directly inspired by Hermann Hesse’s 1919 novel Demian: The Story of Emil Sinclair’s Youth. Like the book, the video is filled with surrealist imagery and themes of duality; it also features an interlude where BTS member RM (formerly Rap Monster) recites a passage from the novel (“He, too, was a tempter. He, too, was a link to the second. The evil world with which I no longer wanted to have anything to do”). “We felt that there were a lot of similarities between parts of ‘Demian’ and the things we wanted to say,” RM said in an interview. “So we used a lot of objects and elements from ‘Demian’ in our jacket photos and music video.”

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    Anastasia Rose Hyden

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  • BizToc

    BizToc

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    What happened Shares of Sumo Logic (SUMO 12.69%), a software analytics platform company, were rising fast today after the company reported better-than-expected third-quarter results. Sumo Logic's top and bottom lines both outpaced Wall Street's expectations, helping to send the…

    #arr #sumologics #raminsayar #nongaap #sumo #sumologic

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  • Weird Facts

    Weird Facts

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    In 1977 Bob Marley was diagnosed with a type of malignant melanoma under a toenail. He rejected his doctors’ advice to have his toe amputated, citing his religious beliefs. He died four years later, at the age of 36, due to the spread of melanoma to his lungs and brain. His final words to his son Ziggy were: “Money can’t buy life.” [1, 2, 3]

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  • WTF Fun Fact 13113 – The Island in a Lake in an Island in a Lake

    WTF Fun Fact 13113 – The Island in a Lake in an Island in a Lake

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    Vulcan Point has an interesting factoid that few pieces of land that share this distinction. It’s an island in a lake in an island in a lake in an island. These are called “recursive islands.”

    How do you get an island in a Lake in an Island in a Lake?

    How does this make sense?

    Well, Vulcan Point is a tiny piece of land inside a crater lake on Volcano island in Lake Taal, which sits in the island of Luzon in The Philippines. Luzon is in the Batangas province. You can see it all here on Google.

    Vulcan Point isn’t a tourist destination so much as it’s just a curiosity. Lake Taal is believed to have been formed by rainwater, and it was covered in vegetation until recently when the Taal Volcano erupted in 2020, and it evaporated. However, typhoon water brought back the lake, and its island is now a bit bigger (and Vulcan Point is on its peninsula).

    Trust us, looking at a map will help.

    Recursive islands

    A recursive island is merely an island in a lake. But there are 12 other islands in lakes in islands in lakes in islands in the world. Canada has the most. Indonesia has a pair as well. The rest are in the UK and Cuba.

    There’s only one island in a lake on island in a lake on an island in a lake in the world (which takes it all one step further). It’s called Manar. But its island, lake, next biggest island, etc. remain unnamed. But the main island is in Lake Yathkyed, way up in Nunavut.

    We’re not sure they make the best vacation spots – though there’s little stopping you from visiting many of them – but they do make for good trivia!  WTF fun facts

    Source: “Taal Volcano Main Crater Lake” — Wikipedia

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  • Viva Magenta! Pantone’s Color of the Year ‘Promotes a Joyous and Optimistic Celebration’

    Viva Magenta! Pantone’s Color of the Year ‘Promotes a Joyous and Optimistic Celebration’

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    Choosing a bright color in the red family for a statement wall or some other fixture can be a tricky business. Too close to the red end of the spectrum and you evoke fire trucks, stop signs, and Clifford the Big Red Dog. But too far toward pink and you’re treading into Barbie and Elle Woods territory.

    If paying tribute to any of that seems appealing to you, go for it. If you’re looking for a pinkish red with a little more nuance, though, Pantone’s 2023 Color of the Year might pique your interest. Viva Magenta 18-750, according to Pantone, is “a bright, crimson red” that pairs well with “pale grays, blues, or pastels,” as well as with other shades of pink. “Viva Magenta is brave and fearless, a pulsating color whose exuberance promotes a joyous and optimistic celebration, writing a new narrative,” the company wrote. “It is a color that is audacious, full of wit and inclusive of all.” 

    As NPR reports, the Pantone Color Institute started the tradition of picking a forward-looking annual color in 2000, when cerulean blue earned the title. Researchers analyze design trends across multiple industries and throughout culture to determine what people will gravitate toward in the coming year.

    “Influences may also stem from new technologies, materials, textures and effects that impact color, relevant social media platforms and even upcoming sporting events that capture worldwide attention,” Laurie Pressman, Pantone Color Institute vice president, said in an interview on the company’s website.

    One key quality that contributed to the selection of Viva Magenta is its link to nature. The carmine dye originally used to create it and similar colors comes from the cochineal insect, a cactus-eating Mesoamerican parasite.

    Looks like we’ll have to wait another year for lusty gallant, bastard-amber, or one of our other favorite obscure colors to get a chance at the Pantone title.

    [h/t NPR]

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    Ellen Gutoskey

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  • BizToc

    BizToc

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    The Volokh Conspiracy Mostly law professors | Sometimes contrarian | Often libertarian | Always independent A recent decision by the U.S. Court of Appeals for the Fifth Circuit concluded that the funding mechanism for hte Consumer Financial Protection Bureau is unconstitutional because it makes…

    #adamwhite #richardcordray #cfpb #senatebankingcommittee #doddfrankact #uscourtofappeals #federalreserve #constitution #justicedepartment #supremecourt

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  • The Fasting Girls of the Victorian Era: The Story Behind ‘The Wonder’

    The Fasting Girls of the Victorian Era: The Story Behind ‘The Wonder’

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    In Netflix’s new period drama The Wonder, an English nurse named Lib Wright (Florence Pugh) arrives in Ireland to attend to Anna O’Donnell (Kíla Lord Cassidy), an 11-year-old girl who claims she has been living on nothing but “manna from heaven”—meaning she hasn’t eaten in four months. 

    While The Wonder is not based on real people, it is rooted in real history. So-called “fasting girls” were a global phenomenon, primarily in the late 19th century, with cases reported across both the United Kingdom and the United States. The troubling trend, which was typically seen in pre-teen girls and often accompanied by claims of supernatural powers, was common enough that between 1870 and 1878, the British Medical Journal ran articles titled “The Welsh Fasting Girl,” “Another Fasting Girl,” and “Yet Another Fasting Girl.”

    But who exactly were these fasting girls and why were they starving themselves? As scholar Karen Hollis wrote in 2001, these young women were “uniformly poor, of humble backgrounds, living in relatively isolated rural areas, often Scotland or Wales, and ranged in age from 15 to 70.” They might say they stopped eating a few months ago or, in extreme cases, several years back.

    Many of these women, who became minor celebrities for a time, developed an almost saint-like reputation, with some suggesting their survival on so little was the result of divine intervention. But these bizarre hunger strikes were often caused by traumatic accidents or medical emergencies. Hollis points to cases like that of Janet Macleod, who suffered a fit of epilepsy that locked her jaw, and Martha Taylor, whose neighbor struck her across the back with a board.

    But perhaps the most famous case, which drew the attention of Emma Donoghue, screenwriter of The Wonder and author of the 2016 book upon which it is based, was Sarah Jacob. The Welsh girl supposedly began her fast in 1867, a few months after she suffered a series of seizures, which led to month-long coma. Once revived, she was bedridden and would not eat or drink. 

    News of Jacob’s condition spread after a local vicar wrote to The Welshman in 1869, calling on medical professionals to investigate this “most extraordinary case” of a “little girl … who has not partaken of a single grain of any kind of food whatever during the last sixteen months.” Four nurses and seven doctors were later asked to observe Sarah for two weeks, and were reportedly instructed by her parents not to offer her any food. She died in the middle of this watch, on December 17, 1869. Sarah’s parents, Evan and Hannah Jacob, were later charged and convicted of manslaughter.

    As the Jacob tragedy demonstrates, these cases tended to generate a good deal of publicity for the girls and their families. In Brooklyn, teen Mollie Fancher became the subject of much public fascination from the 1870s up until her death in 1916, with visitors pouring in to see the bedridden fasting girl. The New York Times printed letters from these observers, who told tales of testing her for supernatural “power” and taking home souvenirs. Otherworldly abilities or spiritual connection were often attributed to these girls, regardless of whether they claimed it themselves.

    Mollie Fancher at home.

    Mollie Fancher at home. / Brooklyn Daily Eagle photographs, Brooklyn Public Library, Center for Brooklyn History // Public Domain

    Fasting girls also naturally drew skepticism from the medical community—and with good reason. For many, it seemed to mark the beginning of an era of eating disorders that would eventually lead to anorexia nervosa. For others, the “fasting girls” phenomenon was nothing more than a hoax.

    One of the most famous “fasting girls” was actually a middle-aged woman named Ann Moore, a villager of Tutbury, Staffordshire, England. Moore claimed she had not eaten in five years, for constantly changing reasons, including a revulsion stemming from her care of a sick patient with rotting sores. Her supposed abstinence from food gained so much attention that a wax figure of her was put on display in Boston, and a portrait of Moore currently hangs in The British Museum. But it was all a lie.

    After doctors began to poke holes in her story, Moore admitted she’d made the whole thing up. She died soon after, becoming one of the most famous fraudsters of the early 1800s.

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    Kristin Hunt

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  • 12 Illuminating Facts About Booker T. Washington

    12 Illuminating Facts About Booker T. Washington

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    Booker T. Washington was one of the most influential—and, at times, controversial—Black leaders of the 19th and early 20th centuries. Born enslaved, Washington went on to found and foster a prestigious university, advise presidents, and speak to audiences across the country. Here are a few facts about this innovative educator.

    Washington was born on April 5, 1856, on a small tobacco plantation in Virginia. His mother, Jane, was an enslaved cook for the plantation owner. Washington didn’t know his father, who was white. The Civil War ended when Washington was 9, and he and his family, along with the other people enslaved on the plantation, were freed.

    The T in Booker T. Washington stands for Taliaferro, which means “iron cutter” in Italian. Reports vary, but Washington’s mother apparently named her son Booker Taliaferro when he was born, and later dropped the second name. Washington chose his surname while in school, though it’s unclear whether went with it because it was his stepfather’s first name or because it was the name of the first U.S. president. He later used Taliaferro as his middle name.

    Salt furnaces and coal mines in near Malden, West Virginia, around the turn of the 20th century

    Shortly after the war ended, Washington’s family moved to Malden, West Virginia, to join his stepfather, and he was put to work. The boy labored in the nearby Kanawha salt mines, shoveling and packing salt into barrels. He wanted to attend school and got permission to do so on the condition that he first worked from 4 a.m. to 9 a.m. in the salt mines, and again later in the day.

    From ages 10 to 12, Washington worked in coal mines and continued to juggle hard physical toil with schoolwork. At 15, he was hired as a servant for the wife of the owner of the coal mines, Viola Ruffner. A year later, he left for the Hampton Normal and Agricultural Institute (now Hampton University) in Virginia to continue his education.

    Because his stepfather took most of his wages for family expenses, Washington had little money to travel, and instead walked a good portion of the 400 miles to Hampton. He arrived disheveled and dirty, but determined to get in. It took some time for Washington to convince anyone at the school to give him a chance. His entrance exam consisted of cleaning a room; he passed, and credited his time with Ruffner for his ability to ace the white-glove inspection. He then took a job as a janitor to help pay his way.

    While at Hampton, Washington got to know its principal and founder, Samuel Chapman Armstrong. The son of missionaries in Hawaii, Armstrong had commanded Black troops on the Union side in the Civil War, then turned his focus to educating Black students. Hampton opened in Virginia in 1868, starting out as a school to train Black educators and teach useful job skills. Washington wholeheartedly adopted its principles and held Armstrong in high esteem.

    In May 1881, Armstrong recommended Washington to lead a new school in Tuskegee, Alabama, that would follow the Hampton model. The Alabama state legislature had approved a $2000 yearly appropriation for the Tuskegee Normal School. But when Washington arrived, he found that the funding covered only salaries—there were no buildings and no land.

    A local Black church loaned him a shanty, and he borrowed money from Hampton Institute’s treasurer to buy an abandoned 100-acre plantation. Washington recruited students and opened the school on July 4, 1881. In addition to learning trades like carpentry and printing, students helped make and sell bricks to raise money, and they helped construct school buildings as well.

    Interior of the library at Tuskegee Institute

    Interior of the library at Tuskegee Institute / Historical/GettyImages

    Washington was exceptionally skilled at fundraising and networking, and he enjoyed public speaking. As he worked to build Tuskegee, his profile rose as he interacted with wealthy benefactors, politicians, and citizens.

    By its 25th year, in 1906, Tuskegee had grown to an 83-building campus on 2000 acres with an endowment fund of $1.28 million (about $39.6 million today). Guests at the 25th anniversary celebration included Andrew Carnegie, Harvard University president Charles W. Eliot, and William H. Taft (then Secretary of War) [PDF]. Today it’s known as Tuskegee University.

    Washington believed that economic security and independence was the most pressing need for Black people, and that harmony among races would eventually follow. In that vein, he promoted vocational skills and labor over a liberal arts education and civil rights, and he argued against direct confrontation with white people.

    In 1895, Washington spoke to a racially mixed crowd at the Cotton States and International Exposition in Atlanta. The speech—which Black activist W.E.B. Du Bois would criticize and later refer to as “The Atlanta Compromise”—described Washington’s “accommodationist” philosophy and served as a lightning rod for controversy. One line in particular reverberated for years: “In all things that are purely social we can be as separate as the fingers, yet one as the hand in all things essential to mutual progress.”

    Some, particularly in the Black press, strongly disagreed with this approach. Others felt he was being pragmatic, seeking to reduce anti-Black violence with a message that could appease southern whites.

    A year later, the U.S. Supreme Court ruled in Plessy v. Ferguson that “separate but equal” was constitutional, and legal segregation would stand until the 1954 Brown v. Board of Education decision that overturned it.

    Washington might have been maneuvering behind the scenes more than he let on, however. He gave money to those who fought discrimination and was reportedly a part owner of the Black newspaper The New York Age, striking a conciliatory tone in public while potentially supporting activist causes in private.

    Washington was widowed twice. He married a Malden acquaintance named Fanny Norton Smith, who also attended Hampton, in 1882. They had a daughter before Smith died suddenly in 1884. Washington then married Olivia Davidson, assistant principal at Tuskegee, in 1885 and had two sons with her before Davidson passed away from tuberculosis in 1889. He wed Margaret James Murray, who served as the Tuskegee Institute’s “lady principal,” in 1892, and remained married to her until his death in 1915.

    Booker T. Washington dines with President Roosevelt

    A political cartoon showing Booker T. Washington dining with President Theodore Roosevelt / Library of Congress/GettyImages

    On October 16, 1901, President Theodore Roosevelt hosted Washington for dinner—and it caused a stir, particularly in the South. Washington was the first Black person to dine at the White House, and sharing dinner was viewed as a sign of equality among the diners at that time Additionally, Roosevelt’s wife and daughter were in attendance, which added fueled opponents’ fury.

    The Memphis Scimitar opined that “the most damnable outrage which has ever been perpetrated by any citizen of the United States was committed yesterday by the President,” while its rival,  the Memphis Commercial Appeal, wrote, “President Roosevelt has committed a blunder that is worse than a crime, and no atonement or future act of his can remove the self-imprinted stigma.”

    The White House tried to walk back its announcement of the event and frame it as a lunch, a story it stuck to for several decades. In the 1930s, a reporter asked Mrs. Roosevelt whether the occasion was a lunch or dinner, and, after checking her calendar, she confirmed it had been a dinner.

    Late in his life, Washington met Julius Rosenwald, president of Sears, Roebuck & Co., and convinced him to join the board of directors at Tuskegee. Washington and Rosenwald kept in touch and soon started discussing ways of educating Black children.

    Washington had already been enormously successful in fundraising efforts at Tuskegee, Rosenwald was an ardent philanthropist, and the two men both valued education. They embarked upon a mission of building schools for Black youth in the South.

    Though Washington died before any schools were built, the foundation he helped create went on to build almost 5000 schools between 1917 and 1932, plus teachers’ homes, industrial buildings, and privies. Staff from Tuskegee Institute designed the buildings early on before the Rosenwald Foundation took over in 1920. The Rosenwald schools began to close and merge with white schools when segregation was deemed unconstitutional in 1954.

    Booker T. Washington died on November 14, 1915, of “elevated hypertension.” He had been in New York and, upon learning that he had little time left, was able to board a train to Tuskegee to die at home near the Tuskegee Institute. He arrived home around midnight and died at 4:40 a.m.

    Almost 8000 people attended Washington’s funeral on Nov. 17 at the Tuskegee Institute Chapel. He is buried on a hill on the campus.

    Booker T. Washington and wife Margaret Murray Washington

    Booker T. Washington and wife Margaret Murray Washington / Library of Congress/GettyImages

    The Post Office Department issued a stamp honoring Washington on April 7, 1940, the first postage to honor a Black man or woman. The stamp was a 10-cent denomination, higher than the everyday three-cent stamps of the time.

    Tuskegee Institute hosted the first day of issue ceremony; the Smithsonian National Postal Museum wrote that the stamp was so popular it necessitated two “unprecedented” second day of issue ceremonies in two additional cities. In 1956, the Post Office Department honored Washington with another stamp commemorating the 100th anniversary of his birth.

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    Karin Crompton

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  • BizToc

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    The pandemic has brought payments into the spotlight over the past three years. Venture capital flowed in; digital payments adoption and usage ticked up; and investments in digital payments meant the difference for merchants and payments players between swiftly adapting to new realities or…

    #ach #uscongress #cbdc

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    In the latest sign that NFTs remain popular with collectors, Sound, a platform for music tokens is singing a very catchy tune. The number of mints on Sound have doubled in each of the last two months. At 12,080, according to a Dune Analytics query, over a third of the platform’s total of 30,562…

    #dune #turley #defiant #nft #getsmarter #davidgreenstein #statista #cooperturley #sound #lironshapira

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    Shopify told employees not to engage with tweets about its business ties with Libs of TikTok. – It recently received a large number of messages calling on it to remove the controversial store. – Shopify's acceptable-use policy has been a topic of debate many times. Calls for the controversial Libs…

    #signal #lgbtqnightclub #tiktok #shopify #capitol #basecamp #tobilütke #twitter #davidheinemeierhansson #antilgbtq

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    U.S. House Financial Services Committee Chair Rep. Maxine Waters (D-Calif.) has publicly criticized Sam Bankman-Fried, the former CEO of FTX FTT/USD, for saying on Twitter that he would testify after “learning and reviewing what happened” at the exchange. What Happened: Waters, in a tweet on…

    #sbf #elonmusk #ftxfttusd #benzingapro #priceaction #ftx #ushousefinancialservicescommittee #maxinewaters #mikenovogratz #sambankmanfried

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  • 31 Retro Photos From The Heyday Of Pinball And Arcades In The ’70s And ’80s

    31 Retro Photos From The Heyday Of Pinball And Arcades In The ’70s And ’80s

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    These vintage photos will take you back to a time when Pac-Man and Donkey Kong were the absolute pinnacle of gaming technology.

    Maybe you can predict the moves of those shifty Pac-Man ghosts, smell the metallic odor of the tokens, or hear the symphony of sound effects ringing in your ears. But even if you rarely set foot inside an arcade yourself, you can still appreciate the cool, neon-flashing, vintage arcade aesthetic. (Let’s face it, the carpeting was always epic.)

    Whether you grew up playing pinball and video games at the arcade or you just enjoy looking at some of the most popular hangout spots of years past, these photos will definitely hit that retro-gaming sweet spot.

    31 Images That Capture The Height Of Arcade Culture Of The ’70s And ’80s

    Looking back in time, it’s incredible how much gaming has evolved since the 1970s and 1980s. It’s nearly impossible to believe that arcades once thrived with simple games like Space Invaders, Pac-Man, and Donkey Kong.

    But some may argue that simpler times were better times.

    In some respects, this era was truly the golden age of gaming in the United States. This was especially true for pinball, as the game’s controversial past had finally turned into a reluctant validity by the mid-1970s. Before then, pinball was actually outlawed in some major American cities.

    For decades, authorities and educators had been concerned that pinball was corrupting the morals of American youths. While the older population’s moral panic would soon transfer to video games, that certainly didn’t stop kids, teens, and even some adults from enjoying these pastimes at arcades. And before long, a pop-culture obsession with arcades was born.

    Inside The Surprisingly Sordid History Of Pinball

    Pinball In 1935

    FPG/Hulton Archive/Getty ImagesMen playing pinball in an American arcade. Circa 1935.

    Inspired by sports like bocce, lawn bowling, and billiards, Western Europeans created one of the first versions of pinball between 1750 and 1770. This game, dubbed “Japanese billiards,” used metal “pins” instead of wooden ones, and a coiled spring with a plunger rather than a cue. A similar mechanism is still used in modern pinball machines today, according to The Beacon.

    Pinball arguably came of age a couple of centuries later during the Great Depression, especially in the United States. But as soon as coin-operated machines debuted in 1931, officials branded them a menace to society. They likened their use for entertainment in businesses to gambling.

    And in a way, pinball was connected to gambling at first. Before the introduction of flippers in 1947, pinball was largely a game of chance, not skill. Some players gambled on pinball games, and some business operators handed out prizes to the winners. Because of this, several U.S. cities like Los Angeles, New York City, Chicago, and New Orleans banned pinball entirely.

    In New York City alone, police confiscated and destroyed over 2,000 pinball machines in the early 1940s, with Mayor Fiorello LaGuardia leading the charge. Like many authorities of the era, LaGuardia feared the game had moral and criminal consequences like other forms of gambling often did.

    Meanwhile, churches across America also decried pinball, preaching that the games caused juvenile delinquency, according to History. Many religious leaders believed that children’s morals were being corrupted by the game.

    Pinball’s bad reputation continued in the country for decades. However, by the mid-1970s, things were looking up. In 1974, the California Supreme Court ended its prohibition of pinball. A couple of years later, the city council in New York City saw a compelling demonstration by pinball star Roger Sharpe, who showed authorities how pinball had become a game of skill.

    Soon, the pinball ban in New York City was lifted, and other cities across America followed suit. Others stopped enforcing their bans. But it didn’t take long before there was another “threat” on the horizon: video games.

    The Rise Of Video Games In American Arcades

    ShowBiz Pizza

    losttulsa/FlickrShowBiz Pizza was a family entertainment center that combined a pizza restaurant with an arcade in the 1980s.

    Though pinball remained a common sight in arcades across America, video games had largely stolen the spotlight by the 1980s. Perhaps unsurprisingly, the older population soon expressed concerns about these new machines.

    According to the Smithsonian Magazine, many politicians, educators, and even medical experts worried about the potential negative effects of playing video games, from physical ailments to violent urges to flat-out addiction.

    But in reality, much of it had to do with regulating the behavior of America’s youths, whose perpetual presence at local malls annoyed many adults.

    Despite the moral panic, countless kids, teenagers, and even some adults flocked to video game arcades for fun. Whether they were in a standalone building, in the mall, or inside family entertainment centers like Chuck E. Cheese or ShowBiz Pizza, a trip to the arcade was truly a phenomenon.

    On the flip side, some social scientists of the time saw the potential benefits of video games. Interacting with this cutting-edge technology, they thought, could help the younger generation ease into the greater electronic shift that was already occurring in America — from the factory to the office. It was a form of early training, the optimistic among them promised.

    According to PBS, data today shows that video games don’t cause aggressive behavior or harm us psychologically. Sure, there may be some eye strain or the occasional stiff wrist, but in the big picture, the games probably helped foster technological education and made kids more creative to boot.

    While many arcades have closed in recent years, especially with the ever-rising popularity of home video game consoles, it’s always fascinating to take a look back at vintage arcade photos to see how far technology has come since then. And of course, a little nostalgia never hurts.


    After looking through these retro arcade photos, discover more vintage images from the 1980s. Then, check out the Internet K-Hole, a revealing look at what life was really like in the 1970s and 1980s.

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    Erin Kelly

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  • The Twisted Story Of The Beauty School Student Who Was Murdered By Her Hannibal Lecter-Obsessed Classmate

    The Twisted Story Of The Beauty School Student Who Was Murdered By Her Hannibal Lecter-Obsessed Classmate

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    In 2010, 17-year-old Mackenzie Cowell fell victim to a disturbed classmate named Christopher Scott Wilson who had a morbid fascination with murder and a tattoo of Hannibal Lecter on his arm.

    FacebookMackenzie Cowell was just 17-year-old when she was murdered by a disturbed classmate in 2010.

    Mackenzie Cowell was a 17-year-old cosmetology student in Wenatchee, Washington. On Feb. 9, 2010, she left class for a short break, driving away in her car, but a fellow beauty school student was just behind her — with dark designs.

    When Mackenzie Cowell turned up strangled and stabbed to death in the Columbia River four days later, police had few leads, until Christopher Wilson’s name came to their attention. The circumstantial evidence suggested Wilson was Cowell’s killer, and so did part of the physical evidence, but questions remained: Were others complicit in Mackenzie Cowell’s brutal murder?

    Mackenzie Cowell Vanishes From Beauty School

    Mackenzie Cowell Security Footage

    YouTubeThis CCTV footage is likely the last time Mackenzie Cowell was seen alive.

    Mackenzie Nicole Cowell was born on April 1, 1992, and in 2010 was a senior at Wenatchee High School, splitting her time between both parents’ homes. Cowell was a dedicated dancer on the school dance team, and for a Wenatchee dance studio. The ambitious Cowell was gaining extra school credits in a cosmetology job training program at the Academy Of Hair Design in downtown Wenatchee.

    At 3 p.m. on February 9, Cowell left her beauty school for a 15-minute break, asking if she had to sign out for such a short time according to CBS News. Cowell exited through a rear door, and was recorded on external security cameras walking across the parking lot, and entering her red car alone. These were the last images captured of Cowell alive.

    Other than the one-word text to her boyfriend of, “Hey,” which received the same response at 3:42 p.m., any calls to Cowell’s phone afterward went straight to voicemail. As classes ended at 5 p.m. Cowell never returned to the beauty school.

    Cowell’s father left a series of voicemails for his daughter around 5:40 p.m. and became increasingly worried when she did not return home that evening. Around 8 p.m. a rancher reported an abandoned car near his driveway in Pitcher Canyon. It was Cowell’s, and police called the registered owner, Reid Cowell, who told the officer that not only was his car missing, but so was the driver – his daughter.

    A single set of footprints in the snow led away from Cowell’s car, and soon a police helicopter and canine search were underway. The canine only detected Cowell’s scent within the car — however, three residents recalled seeing a thin man, with dark hair and a dark coat, walking away from the car down Pitcher Canyon Road between 4:30 and 5:30 p.m.

    Mackenzie Cowell’s Remains Are Discovered

    On February 13, four days after her disappearance, Mackenzie Cowell’s body was discovered in the Colombia River at the quiet resort community of Crescent Bar, some 20 miles east of Wenatchee.

    The autopsy showed Cowell had died on February 9, between 3:30 and 4:30 p.m. She had no drugs or alcohol in her system, had not been sexually assaulted, still wearing her beauty school uniform. Cowell had suffered blunt force trauma to the head and been strangled and stabbed per The Spokesman Review.

    Disturbingly, a kitchen knife was found still embedded in Cowell’s shoulder, where her killer had attempted to hack offher arm.

    A multiagency task force formed with consultation from the FBI, as Cowell’s parents were informed of the shocking murder of their daughter. Investigators soon cleared the family, including the boyfriend of Cowell’s mother, with whom Cowell had some past tension. But with investigators interviewing hundreds of people and obtaining relevant DNA swabs, a new twist soon appeared in the case.

    Reportedly a police informant, a woman named Liz Reid implicated two local drug dealers, claiming she had actually seen a “snuff film” of Cowell’s murder. The task force examined both men for weeks, but phone records and their presence at jobs on the afternoon of Cowell’s disappearance, cleared them both. Reid’s information ultimately proved invalid, and she withdrew her accusation — but still maintained that she had seen that snuff film.

    Christopher Wilson, Cowell’s Serial Killer-Obsessed Classmate

    Mackenzie Cowell Near The Time Of Her Disappearance

    FacebookMackenzie Cowell near the time of her disappearance.

    In August, another police informant, Theo Keyes, sent investigators a letter from prison indicating that they should look into his former friend, 29-year-old Christopher Wilson. Keyes, a bipolar petty criminal in jail for indecent exposure, wrote that Wilson attended the same beauty school as Cowell, and had a morbid fascination with death, having previously been fired from a funeral home for an unknown offense.

    Keyes said that Wilson had once suddenly choked a female friend at a party, then released her as if nothing had happened.

    Wilson dyed his hair black, wore gothic clothing and occasional eyeliner, and would’ve blended into Seattle perfectly — but not small-town Wenatchee, where he stuck out like a sore thumb. Wilson was obsessed with the popular serial killer TV show Dexter and even had a tattoo of Hannibal Lecter on his arm. Wilson’s friends always stressed that he wasn’t evil, just different, with some unusual interests. Opinions varied as to whether Cowell and Wilson knew each other, but Wilson denied it.

    Security footage captured Wilson leaving the beauty school within 72 seconds of Cowell that afternoon, and his whereabouts for the rest of the day were unknown. Phone records showed Wilson in regular contact with his ex-girlfriend that afternoon, and she in turn was in contact with her current boyfriend, who lived three miles from Crescent Bar. And what’s more, she allegedly called him that night in a panic: “Something really, really bad has happened”

    Justice For Mackenzie Cowell

    Christopher Wilson

    TwitterChristopher Scott Wilson appears in court.

    Christopher Scott Wilson had voluntarily provided his DNA, which was found to be consistent with male profile DNA found on duct tape discovered near Cowell’s body. When questioned on October 6, he was arrested for the murder of Mackenzie Cowell, and simply asked for a lawyer. Wilson’s DNA had not been found in Cowell’s car, or on the knife, and Wilson’s own car had produced no forensic evidence linking him to Cowell.

    Damning circumstantial videos were, however, discovered involving Wilson, his ex-girlfriend, and a blood-stained piece of carpet.

    On the video, Wilson could reportedly be overheard saying, “Does it look clean in here?” His ex-girlfriend replied, “Clean for …? Clean considering what’s … happening? Yes, I think it’s clean.”

    The video zoomed in on a stained patch of carpet, which Wilson later said was soiled during a party. A small bloody carpet patch was sent for crime lab testing which came back as Mackenzie Cowell’s blood according to The Seattle Times. Wilson’s ex-girlfriend was arrested for concealing the crime, but she was never charged by investigators.

    In April 2011, Wilson rejected the plea deal of a lifetime – six years for manslaughter. Prior to trial, a jury questionnaire revealed that 80 percent of potential jurors already thought Wilson was guilty. The day before, thinking he would not receive a fair trial, Wilson entered a guilty plea for Cowell’s manslaughter and requested the six-year deal.

    In the end, Wilson reluctantly took a 14-year plea deal in exchange for a signed document saying he had caused the death of Mackenzie Cowell. Wilson tried to reverse his plea almost immediately, but it was upheld, and he remains in prison until at least 2023.


    After learning about Mackenzie Cowell, read about the mysterious disappearance of nursing student Maura Murray. Then, learn how a podcaster worked to solve the notorious murder of Denise Johnson.

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    Neil Patmore

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  • The 8 Best Drugstore Shampoos for Each Hair Type, According to Experts

    The 8 Best Drugstore Shampoos for Each Hair Type, According to Experts

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    Haircare can be frustrating no matter which way you slice it—especially when it comes to shampoo, which is not a one-size-fits-all kind of thing. Do you splurge on the designer line your salon keeps trying to pedal at the end of your appointments, or is a drugstore brand sufficient? Do these fancy-sounding ingredients that brands are trying to entice you with actually do you any additional good? 

    To help you navigate the countless formulas (for instance, you wouldn’t want to waste money on something designed to cut through oil when your hair has never been dryer in your life!), we chatted with people who really know hair, from stylists to trichologists. 

    So if it comes down to needing a little more TLC for your ‘do, here are the most important ingredients to look out for in drugstore shampoos and the best brands that include them, according to the experts

    Woman buying shampoo in the supermarket.

    Before you try a new shampoo, it’s important to pay close attention to what’s actually in it. / 97, E+ Collection, Getty Images

    The good news is that everyone’s hair has the same basic necessities: hydration and moisture. The shampoo—and conditioner—you choose serves as the foundation for your haircare routine. “You’re going to want a product that will open the cuticle, remove product buildup, and rehydrate,” Carissa Clearwater, owner of Rat’s Nest, a salon based in Worcester, Massachusetts, tells Mental Floss. If you’ve chosen a good foundation and are still noticing issues that need to be addressed, that’s when you’d want to start looking into additional products to help treat it, according to Clearwater. 

    Kerry Yates, founder of Colour Collective and a trichologist (a.k.a., someone well-versed in the science of hair, including its structure, function, and the diseases that can impact both human hair and scalps) points to a few “up-and-coming super ingredients” that could be helpful to look for when it comes to caring for your hair. She suggests the following:

    But just as important as finding the right ingredients is making sure you’re avoiding the wrong ones. Clearwater says that no matter what your hair type is, the following should be nixed from your hair’s regimen: 

    According to Clearwater, heavy oils, waxes, silicons, and paraffins will all lay on top of your hair and seal the cuticle. As the water evaporates out, that seal will prevent water from reentering, leading to dry, brittle locks. Because these components are not water soluble, it’s very difficult to remove them from your hair, and they will continue to build up and lead to more damage. 

    Sulfates in particular can be extremely harsh on the scalp and lead to dryness and irritation. And if you color your hair, sulfates will “absolutely strip [the dye] out,” Clearwater says. Note that sulfate-free shampoos may also have other problematic ingredients you may want to avoid, such as cocamide DEA (a known carcinogen derived from coconuts, which may be linked to cancer); cocamide MEA (also derived from coconuts, and can contain traces of cocamide DEA); and propylene glycol (a liquid alcohol synthetically made from petroleum, which may cause irritation or dryness for those with sensitive scalps).

    A hairdresser shampoos a young woman's hair.

    In the long run, the shampoos you see in salons aren’t necessarily better for your hair than more affordable options. / T.Matsuda, DigitalVision, Getty Images

    Now that you have an idea of what to look for in a new shampoo, it’s time to decide if you’re going the drugstore route or opting for a designer brand. 

    Drugstore brands—think Herbal Essences or Aussie—may be tempting due to the assumption that they’re much more affordable than high-end brands, while designer options may be more appealing because we think that they’re better formulated. According to Allyson Carter, a hair stylist and editor-in-chief at Hair Spies, drugstore brands may actually be the better option. “There [are] many drugstore shampoos that contain more natural ingredients than designer-brand shampoos, which is obviously better for your hair,” she says.

    Stylist Katelyn Ellsworth, founder of The Roslyn, one of San Diego’s top salons, claims that many drugstore products have been incorporating more and more clean ingredients over the years, which has made them better for your hair’s health than they used to be. According to Carter, drugstore shampoos also often have a wider array of formulations than designer brands do, making it easier to find the one best suited to your needs. (In particular, she loves that “many drugstore brands offer sulfate-free options now.”) 

    Best Drugstore Shampoo for Curly hair: SheaMoisture All Day Frizz Control Shampoo

    SheaMoisture All Day Frizz Control Shampoo / SheaMoisture / Amazon

    Carter recommends that curly-haired individuals look for shampoos designed specifically for maintaining curls—not only in looks, but in health. “The cuticle of curly hair is often more raised than that of straight or wavy hair, resulting in less shine,” she says, adding that it’s the hair type most prone to tangles, knots, and breakage. “Curly hair may also be drier than other hair types due to the fact that natural oils produced by the scalp have a harder time traveling down the curlier, kinkier shafts.”

    While heavy oils (like coconut oil) might not be ideal for hair, Carter claims that certain options (and specific types of butters) can actually be good for curly hair, because this type has special needs. “Shea butter and jojoba oil are good ingredients for curly hair to help keep [it] hydrated and shiny,” she says.

    According to Yates, papaya is another important ingredient to look for if your locks are curly. It’s high in vitamins A and C, which are natural antioxidants that help to maintain the balance of moisture and prevent frizz.

    Specifically, she recommends SheaMoisture’s all day frizz control shampoo and conditioner, as it includes not only papaya but neroli, elderflower, and fair-trade shea butter, plus both products are paraben and sulfate-free.

    Buy them: SheaMoisture All Day Frizz Control Shampoo; SheaMoisture All Day Frizz Combo Pack 

    Best Drugstore Shampoos for Natural Hair: Carol’s Daughter Black Vanilla Sulfate-Free Shampoo on countertop

    Carol’s Daughter Black Vanilla Sulfate-Free Shampoo / Carol’s Daughter / Amazon

    When it comes to natural hair, the individual strands tend to be much thicker than other hair types. Though it’s usually characterized by its coarseness, density, and kinkiness, natural hair can range in texture from tight curls to being completely straight, according to Carter. “Natural hair also tends to be very dry and brittle, which can make it difficult to style and manage,” she says. 

    Carter recommends Carol’s Daughter black vanilla sulfate-free shampoo, which she considers a “super hydrating and moisturizing shampoo that is especially great for [those] with thick, curly, natural Black hair.” Ingredients include shea butter, aloe vera, and rosemary, which Carter says are all great for “restoring and giving new life to dry and damaged hair.”

    There are other good ingredients to keep in mind. Ellsworth recommends black onion seed and castor oil, while Yates suggests looking for products with babassu oil. “[It’s a] nourishing, conditioning oil [that] expertly conditions the fragile bends of coily hair,” she says. Mielle Organic’s rosemary mint strengthening shampoo, which Yates recommends, includes babassu oil, as well as biotin to strengthen hair. It also comes from a women-owned brand and is specially designed for curl types 3A to 4C, but does contain propylene glycol, so you may want to keep that in mind before you try it.

    Buy them: Carol’s Daughter Black Vanilla Sulfate-Free Shampoo; Mielle Organics Rosemary Mint Strengthening Shampoo

    Best Drugstore Shampoo for Colored Hair: L’Oreal Paris EverPure Sulfate-Free Glossing Shampoo

    L’Oreal Paris EverPure Sulfate-Free Glossing Shampoo / L’Oreal / Amazon

    Colored hair usually refers to any tresses in a shade that wouldn’t be naturally occurring, i.e., the strands are dyed, bleached, or chemically treated in some way. Carter says that this type is generally very susceptible to damage and breakage as the chemicals used to change their hue are usually harsh on hair. “As such, it is important to use gentle shampoo and conditioner formulas, and to avoid heat styling whenever possible,” she says. 

    For this type of hair, Ellsworth emphasizes the importance of selecting not only sulfate- and paraffin-free products, but those free of sodium chloride. Yates advises folks to seek products with argan oil, a “natural oil [that] adds shine and enhances color-treated hair’s overall beauty.”

    She suggests L’Oreal’s EverPure sulfate-free glossing shampoo, which is paraben-free, suited for all colored hair types and textures, and leaves strands with a shiny finish. (However, it does contain traces of propylene glycol, so you may want to keep that in mind before purchasing.)

    If you’re looking for another alternative, Clearwater recommends you only cleanse your colored hair with products your stylist has recommended. “The shampoo and conditioner [your] stylist recommends is more than likely formulated to [help] retain the hair color and can [guarantee] the results,” she says. 

    Buy them: L’Oreal EverPure Sulfate-Free Glossing Shampoo; L’Oreal EverPure Sulfate-Free Glossing Combo Pack

    Best Drugstore Shampoo for Oily Hair: G+H CLEAR+ Apple Cider Vinegar Hair Rinse

    G+H CLEAR+ Apple Cider Vinegar Hair Rinse / GIRL + HAIR / Amazon

    According to Carter, oily hair is caused by an overproduction of sebum, which can also make it appear greasy or, at times, even wet looking. Genetics, hormones, diet, and certain medical diagnoses can all contribute to it as well. While you probably can’t solve greasy hair permanently, there are certain treatments that can help minimize the look of it. 

    If you’re dealing with oily or greasy hair, Yates recommends looking for shampoos that have aloe vera as a key ingredient. “Natural enzymes help regulate sebum, helping to alleviate that ‘greasy’ scalp without stripping the hair,” she says. 

    Yates recommends Garnier Fructis Pure Clean shampoo, as it’s made with aloe extract and is paraben-free. (However, it’s also important to note that the shampoo and matching conditioner are not sulfate-free and contain sodium chloride, so some might want to check out alternatives.)

    Meanwhile, Carter recommends tea tree oil for oily scalps, which she claims can help give you “a fresher look.” Additionally,  she notes that clays like kaolinite and bentonite may be good for folks with oily hair, as “they will reduce scalp oil production.” Ellsworth suggests incorporating dry shampoos and apple cider vinegar rinses to help cut back on oil.  

    Buy them: Garnier Fructis Pure Clean Shampoo; G+H CLEAR+ Apple Cider Vinegar Hair Rinse

    Best Drugstore Shampoo for Dry Hair: Not Your Mother’s Activated Bamboo Charcoal & Purple Moonstone Shampoo

    Not Your Mother’s Activated Bamboo Charcoal & Purple Moonstone Shampoo / Not Your Mother’s Naturals / Amazon

    Dry hair, on the other hand, is the result of a lack of natural oil production and moisture, according to Carter. “The texture is often rough, brittle, and/or frizzy,” she says. It’s typically prone to breakage and further damage, so to prevent that, Carter recommends using gentle, sulfate-free shampoos and conditioners (and getting regular trims to minimize split ends). She says it’s a good idea to “avoid heat styling whenever possible, and use a leave-in conditioner or serum to help protect the hair from damage.” 

    As far as ingredients go, Carter says that natural oils like argan oil or avocado oil can help hydrate hair and make it look healthier. For dandruff/dry scalps, tea tree oil is another good ingredient to help minimize that dryness, according to the stylist.  

    Carter recommends Not Your Mother’s activated bamboo charcoal and purple moonstone shampoo to her clients “all the time.” According to her, it’s because this blend is free of damaging ingredients, including silicones, parabens, sulfates, and dyes, and it can make your hair “super soft.” It’s good for any hair type, she says, but works especially well on dry, damaged, or even colored hair—especially bleached: “It’s great for freshly dyed hair that tends to yellow and it will help avoid this coloring.”

    Buy them: Not Your Mother’s Activated Bamboo Charcoal & Purple Moonstone Shampoo; Not Your Mother’s Activated Bamboo Charcoal & Purple Moonstone Combo Pack 

    Best Drugstore Shampoo for Damaged Hair: Native Vegan Strengthening Shampoo with Almond & Shea Butter

    Native Vegan Strengthening Shampoo with Almond & Shea Butter / Native / Target

    If you over-process your tresses, use heat-styling tools frequently, or have regular exposure to harsh environmental conditions, your hair likely suffers from some type of damage. Carter describes this hair type as dry, brittle, and straw-like, and notes that it may be difficult to manage and style.“If you have damaged hair, you may want to try using a deep conditioner or protein treatment to help restore moisture and strength. You should also avoid using heat tools as much as possible and protect your hair from the sun and wind,” she says. 

    Ellsworth recommends using vitamin C and manuka honey, which she says are good for both dry and damaged hair, while Yates claims that almond or shea butter can be great for damaged strands. She urges folks with this hair type to check out Native’s vegan strengthening shampoo with almond and shea butter, which is sulfate-, paraben-, and silicone-free. 

    Buy it: Target

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    Sammi Burke

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