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Pier Paolo Pasolini was an Italian filmmaker, poet, and writer whose work often examined topics like class, sexuality, religion, and politics. In 1975, during World War II, he published a letter about fireflies, exploring their ability to endure even in the darkest conditions. This idea of resilience and hope captivated Alessandro Michele, who drew from Pasolini’s intellect to create Valentino‘s spring 2026 collection.
The collection titled “Fireflies” was displayed under flashing lights, mimicking the flicker of fireflies, which heightened the drama and matched the inspiration. The show notes were read over a loudspeaker by Pamela Anderson, who sat in the front row. It urged attendees to “disarm the eyes and reawaken the gaze.” And noted that fashion, in this sense, can help us by bringing light and meaning back into our lives.
The collection of 80 looks showcased a mix of textures and juxtapositions, through lace, tulle, sequins, and beads, as well as silk fabrics that illuminated the dimly lit space. Lively pops of color and floral adornments brought a sense of enjoyment, while statement necklaces and chandelier earrings caught the eye as if a firefly was passing by in the night sky. For more on Michele’s collection, keep scrolling.
The Arrivals
Over the years, working at Fendi, Gucci, and now Valentino, Michele has built a strong rapport with celebrities. He doesn’t just dress them; he often collaborates with them, draws inspiration from them, and treats them as muses. To show their support, many celebrities attended his spring 2026 show in Paris today. For example, Lana Del Ray, a friend of Michele’s, was there wearing a lilac gown with fur-adorned off-the-shoulder straps. As mentioned, Anderson was there wearing a black dress with quarter-length sleeves, lace tights, and fuchsia-colored pumps. Other notable celebrity guests included Emma Chamberlain, Colman Domingo, and Charlotte Lawrence.
(Image credit: Valentino/Launchmetrics)
(Image credit: Valentino/Launchmetrics)
(Image credit: Launchmetrics)
(Image credit: Valentino/Launchmetrics)
Colorful Maximalism
Michele didn’t rely solely on the strobing venue lights to illuminate the collection. The light also came from the garments themselves, through a carefully chosen, emotionally charged color palette. There was bubblegum pink and tangerine, which added bursts of energy; violet and lilac, which were poetic, aligning with Pasolini’s background; mustard yellow for moments of groundedness; cerulean blue, expansive and airy; and lemon yellow, a pure light—along with many others.
(Image credit: Valentino/Launchmetrics)
(Image credit: Valentino/Launchmetrics)
(Image credit: Valentino/Launchmetrics)
(Image credit: Valentino/Launchmetrics)
Bows, Bows, Bows
Bows served as a unifying motif throughout the collection. From the opening look—a muted blue long-sleeve tunic featuring a bow at the neckline and another at the hem—it was clear that Michele intentionally placed them. This is because they were also seen in his spring 2025 haute couture and ready-to-wear collection for Valentino (think the Bowow pumps). More bows emerged on open-toe pumps, along with larger bows on the collars of minidresses—both blazer and tiered ruffled styles. Like fireflies, small yet impactful, bows may look delicate and soft, but they are precise, luminous, and powerful.
(Image credit: Valentino/Launchmetrics)
(Image credit: Valentino/Launchmetrics)
(Image credit: Valentino/Launchmetrics)
(Image credit: Valentino/Launchmetrics)
Bedazzled
In the latter half of the collection, Michele increased the intensity, shifting from romantic tailoring and soft bows to bold, embellished ensembles, featuring sequins, beads, and crystals. For menswear, there was a sheer polo shirt with crystal fringes hanging from the collar, a gold sequin blazer paired with black trousers, and even a metallic long-sleeve sequin zip-up layered under an orange blazer. For womenswear, there was a variety of floor-length sequin and beaded dresses in silver and gold. Other notable items included a green sequin blouse featuring gold teardrop shapes and floral-beaded bags, similar to designs seen now on the Vain bag.
(Image credit: Valentino/Launchmetrics)
(Image credit: Valentino/Launchmetrics)
(Image credit: Valentino/Launchmetrics)
(Image credit: Valentino/Launchmetrics)
Sharp Tailoring
For a designer long known for maximalism and eclecticism, Michele’s spring 2026 collection distinguished itself with more pared-back silhouettes and sleek structures achieved through sharp tailoring. This was reflected in single-breasted blazers, long coats, and minidresses featuring broad and defined shoulders. Both menswear and womenswear featured straight-leg, tailored pants in neutral gray and black, as well as bold cobalt blue and fuchsia. The collection also included fitted pencil skirts made from silk, satin, velvet, and lace.
(Image credit: Valentino/Launchmetrics)
(Image credit: Valentino/Launchmetrics)
(Image credit: Valentino/Launchmetrics)
(Image credit: Valentino/Launchmetrics)
The Jewelry Edit
If one thing is clear, it’s that Michele wants us to have fun with our accessories, as shown by snake-embellished heels and beaded butterfly brooches. Even fringe bags added a sense of movement. However, the real star of the show was the jewelry. Oversized chandelier earrings cascaded from the earlobe to the shoulder, creating a dramatic effect with every turn. Dainty butterfly necklaces were elegantly draped down the models’ backs, adding a touch of ethereal beauty. Cuff bracelets, resembling pieces of ancient armor, were finished with vibrant stones, while bold metal pendant necklaces accentuated the décolletage of both men and women.
(Image credit: Valentino/Launchmetrics)
(Image credit: Valentino/Launchmetrics)
(Image credit: Valentino/Launchmetrics)
(Image credit: Valentino/Launchmetrics)
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