“May not the trouble with New Year’s Resolutions be that they are so largely negative whereas they ought to be positive?” — Barbara Allen, Fitchburg Sentinel, December 30, 1925
I recently came across the work of Barbara Allen, who wrote the page “Women’s Interests” in the Fitchburg Sentinel of a century ago (and longer). It is always exciting to come across a female journalist hitherto unknown, especially as newspapers were well underway in creating separate departments so familiar to us all today: news (global, national, local), sports, entertainment (listings for classics of the silent screen, and cartoons), and, of course, advertising, which then expanded in the winter months leading to Christmas.
Now that New Year’s is on our doorstep, you and yours may have plans to put on some sparkly apparel and go out dancing. Or put on some sparkly feet pajamas and curl up on the couch, although that prospect is less appealing since WSBK stopped airing the traditional “Three Stooges Marathon” back in 2021. So let’s see what our options were for going out a century ago.
“Special Collation”
Perusing old Fitchburg Sentinels online turned up one of our favorite establishments: Brooks Restaurant DeLuxe, Main St. which offered a “Special Collation New Year’s Eve, 11 to 1.” Brooks was beloved for banquets and always bought a big ad to advertise every last item.
On the Sunday before New Year’s, you could have enjoyed one of their “Famous Dinners,” which cost just $1.25 (23 bucks in today’s coin). This started with “Stuffed Eggs a la Brooks, Saltines, Celery, Chicken And Okra Soup,” continued with “Roast Spring Duckling With Sage Dressing”, or “Grilled Sirloin Steak With Mushroom Sauce.” My eye was caught by “Hearts of Lettuce with Russian Dressing.”
The “Red Scare” era was yet to descend on the U.S. and a perusal of magazines and newspapers of the era show that Russian dressing was as ubiquitous as Honey Mustard or Italian Vinaigrette is today.
How exciting — to enrobe your everyday cabbage cousin in an exotic mix of spices interspersed with a complex creamy dressing straight from the twinkly dark eternal night of Mother Russia!
Not so fast — history agrees on one surprising fact: that a grocer named James E. Colburn of Nashua, N.H. owns the credit for Russian dressing. He got there first — even before the Russian Tea Room in New York City.
According to Tastingtable.com, Colburn began his career in the meat industry, and then opened his own grocery store in 1906 which included catering. Between 1906 and 1914, “he created a successful mayonnaise, as well as the now-famous dressing, which he called Colburn’s Russian Salad Dressing.
“Some say that he named it this as it was created to top a Russian Olivier Salad. Others suggest that Colburn put caviar (an expensive ingredient exclusively associated with Russia at the time) in the original ingredients. Another theory is that the Russian moniker came simply because of the inclusion of pickles — a Russian favorite.”
As you read down the menu — remember, you get to have all this food! — notice “Toasted Crackers.” Huh?
I’ve heard of toasted cheese, but cheese and toasted crackers? New to me, but a little research revealed that in the 1920s “toasted crackers” were an accompaniment to everything from tomato soup to “shrimp wiggle” and could be created in that sensation of 1928: the Sunbeam Flat Toaster (think “close and play” style waffle iron).
And since it’s deep mid-winter, we may as well complete the picture by imagining ourselves in raccoon coats hustling in from the cold, each with a flask of bathtub gin in our pockets (it’s still Prohibition). I’m sure, at Brooks Restaurant DeLuxe, we wouldn’t be the only ones.
Cheese Crackers (c. 1925)
INGREDIENTS:
1 1/2 cups grated cheddar cheese
1 teaspoon ground mustard
1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce
2 tablespoon olive oil
1 tablespoon vinegar
1 box of soda or saltine crackers
DIRECTIONS:
Mix grated cheese with other ingredients listed in order. Arrange cookies on a baking sheet, put a spoonful of mix on each cracker. Bake at 400 degrees for 5 minutes or until the cheese bubbles. Serve immediately.
Notes: These can be made on flavored crackers, and are surprisingly filling. You can also top with sliced olives.
Russian Dressing (c. 1920s)
INGREDIENTS:
1 tablespoon finely minced onion
1 cup mayonnaise
¼ cup chili sauce
3 teaspoon prepared horseradish
1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce
½ teaspoon paprika
DIRECTIONS:
In a small bowl, combine the onion, mayonnaise, ketchup, horseradish, Worcestershire sauce, paprika, and salt. Refrigerate until ready to use.
Notes: I read a lot of recipes of the 1920s and the difference between Russian and Thousand Island dressing is hot vs. sweet. The horseradish and chili sauce are spicy, and the original Russian dressing was topped with caviar.
New restaurants in 2025
Congratulations to us! And the fine folks who have opened restaurants and other eating establishments this year. In Leominster, Ace’s Diner, 65 N. Main St. with diner specials like “Fish Friday.” Benito’s Grill, 14 Monument Square offers homemade pasta; Meetinghouse Bar & Grill, 435 Lancaster St., offers casual dining. The Main Squeeze Connection, 43 Main St. offers a rainbow of “fresh cold-pressed juices” and will happily put together a special drink for your health enhancement.
We look forward to visiting — and paying cash for our meals. Yes, plastic is convenient, but businesses can pay three percent or more when they offer credit. That’s three bucks for every C-note; 30 bucks for a thousand dollars, and that can add up to an additional several hundred a month on top of the cost of rent, utilities, staffing, and of course inventory.
Local businesses lose business when customers use plastic — sometimes hundreds of dollars a month. Be kind, and give them paper, not plastic! My new year’s resolution is to completely eliminate using plastic for all local stores, restaurants, and services.
Next week, we salute Fitchburg restaurants and toast our Nordic neighbors with glögg.
Sally Cragin would love to read your family recipes and stories. Write to: sallycragin@gmail.com
Sally Cragin
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