I Tried Malört Ice Cream So You Don’t Have To

That surge in popularity hasn’t escaped brands, either. More and more, we’re seeing Malört-flavored foods being offered by businesses looking to generate buzz. The latest: New York-based ice cream chain Van Leeuwen, which will open its first Chicago location at 1555 N. Damen Avenue in Wicker Park on Friday, September 12. Looking to ingratiate itself with the community, the company is rolling out a limited-time Malört flavor.

When I visited the shop ahead of its debut, I did my due diligence and sampled several varieties, since this was my first time trying Van Leeuwen. But I already knew I was going to order a scoop of the Malört — a move that surprised and drew praise from a staffer.

In my estimation, there aren’t many ways to make Malört palatable, and Van Leeuwen made no attempts to soften its edge. My initial lick hit me with the signature bitterness, so sharp that detecting any other notes was nearly impossible. Every taste that followed delivered the same overwhelming bite. I had my ice cream in a waffle cone, and the only other flavor I could pick up was the cone’s sweetness.

For better or worse, Van Leeuwen nailed it. No notes. This tasted like someone dumped bottles of Malört straight into a batch of vanilla ice cream. If you’re a fan of the spirit, you might manage to finish a full scoop. Everyone else is better off asking for a sample, wincing as you would after a shot, and sticking to a safer pick, such as the mango sticky rice.

Although “love” is too strong of a word, I have a certain affection for the liqueur and have experienced it in various forms, from a birthday cake made by a pastry chef friend to Kooshy Croutons’ Malört croutons. Unlike cocktails and spritzes featuring Malört, which I often find enjoyable, Van Leeuwen’s ice cream leans more toward gimmick than something you’d want to eat regularly.

Whether we’ll see more food mashups in the future remains to be seen, but knowing the city’s affinity for the bitter tipple, it’s probably only a matter of time.

Van Leeuwen, 1555 N. Damen Avenue. Open 11 a.m. to midnight Monday through Thursday; and 11 a.m. to 1 a.m. Friday and Saturday. Opening September 12.