Trinidadian Specialties Shine at New Location of Callaloo Café in Cleveland Heights

On most afternoons, you can find Kelvin Cadiz chilling on the side patio of his Cleveland Heights restaurant. That’s where his two offset grill/smokers sit, puffing aromatic smoke plumes into the air. From those grills come exceptionally flavorful foods like jerk chicken, rib tips and grilled whole chicken wings.

I first met Cadiz a decade ago, when he opened Callaloo Café in Collinwood’s Waterloo Arts District. After a solid run in that neighborhood, the owner relocated his business to Lee Road, bringing his generous spirit and comforting Trinidadian fare with him. Thanks to word of mouth, the casual carry-out-heavy eatery is making a name for itself with locals who love food. When I make my first visit – a year and a half after Cadiz opened his new restaurant – the owner says with his characteristic friskiness, “What took you so long?”

Named for the national dish of Trinidad, Callaloo offers a nice mix of traditional and contemporary Caribbean foods. The first item I would recommend to friends is the roti, which is named after the flatbread despite it being served alongside a curry. That’s how vital and delicious roti is. Trini roti is warm, flaky and soft unleavened flatbread that’s busted up on the griddle before serving. It makes the ideal delivery method for long-cooked meats like curried chicken or luscious bone-in goat ($16). That dish is accompanied by a side of curried chickpeas and potatoes.

Cadiz’ jerk chicken ($23) is similar but not identical to a traditional Jamaican. He does a stellar job of slow-grilling the meat until its fall-apart tender and spiced clear down to the bone. The chestnut-colored meat is glazed with mildly sweet sauce that gives way to honest heat. My choice of sides nets me orders of warm cabbage with peppers and onions and the namesake callaloo, a mellow stew of spinach, okra and coconut milk. For a more affordable taste of the house jerk, order the wings ($12), which include four whole wings.

The concise but fluid menu also offers stewed chicken, steamed whole red snapper and contemporary starters like nachos, quesadillas and burritos. Those quesadillas ($12) and burritos ($12) come with a choice of steak, chicken, fish or tofu and arrive crispy from the griddle. My burrito is stuffed with large pieces of flaky fish, crunchy cabbage, rice and beans. The addition of pineapple overwhelms an otherwise tasty quesadilla, in my case made with tofu and served with a mild and fresh tomato-based salsa.

Callaloo Café
2234 Lee Rd., Cleveland Hts.
216-417-5232
callaloocafe.net

Subscribe to Cleveland Scene newsletters.

Follow us: Apple News | Google News | NewsBreak | Reddit | Instagram | Facebook | Twitter | Or sign up for our RSS Feed