Tag: vegetable garden

Smoky Skies: The Effects of Forest Fires on Garden Plants – Garden Therapy
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As forest fires become more frequent, our garden plants will continue to sit under smoky skies. But how does this affect the lifecycle of our favourite flowers, herbs, and ornamentals? Will our veggies have a smoky flavour? Let’s discuss what we do know about the effects of forest fires on plants in the garden.

Purple Coneflower

Wildfires are becoming part of the summer norm. It seems as though a bad wildfire season went from happening once a decade to every other year.

My home city of Vancouver has reported the worst air quality in the world on multiple occasions. What is normally a gorgeous city surrounded by forests, mountains, and ocean air, was trapped in a haze of smoke that wouldn’t let you see the horizon.

A couple years ago, we had a record-breaking heatwave hit us in June (WAY too early). Forest fires erupted across the province, and wildfire season was off to an early start. The wildfires destroyed the village of Lytton, BC, in a matter of hours, just after breaking the record for the hottest temperature ever recorded in Canada.

I wish I was wrong about the increased frequency of wildfires, but the stats agree. Canada’s National Observer reports that wildfires in BC are burning 10 times more than they were in the 1990s.

In 2023, 2.84 million hectares were burned in BC, which is double the area of any previous year on record.

With the increase of wildfires, I can’t help but think about my garden. While I can hide away inside and filter out the smoky air, my plants stay outside in the haze. What exactly are the effects of forest fires on plants in the garden?

Read on and find out. You might just be surprised!

Garden in full bloom during wildfire season.

Why Forest Fires Are Good

Long before forest fires started due to cigarette butts and unattended campfires, wildfires occurred naturally in nature from lightning strikes. Natural disturbances like fires, disease, drought, windstorms, and floods may all sound scary, but the damage they do all play a part.

Just like sun and rain, wildfires play a role in the forest’s lifecycle. Some forests, including boreal forests, rely on fires for regeneration and regrowth. Fires release nutrients stored on the forest floor within old logs and leaf litter.

The open canopy allows for new growth to get enough sunlight to grow. It also rids the forest of weak and diseased trees. With enough time, small trees replace large ones.

Other trees, such as the lodgepole pine or jack pine actually require fire in order to reproduce. The heat from the fires opens the pinecones, releasing their seed.

While wildfires are good and part of a forest’s lifecycle, they are growing at an alarming rate. The more human-caused fires we can prevent, the better.

Wildfires allow for a forest reset, releasing nutrients back into the soil.

How Wildfires Affected My Garden

For seven or eight years now, I’ve experienced summers with consistent wildfire smoke. By now, I know to anticipate it as part of the gardening season. Over the years, I’ve noticed a change in my own garden due to the smoke.

A couple of years ago, one echinacea stood out. Normally, echinacea finishes growing and has gone to seed by the end of October or early November. But by October, my echinacea was much sturdier than normal, trying so hard to bloom, go to seed, and complete its life cycle. Despite the bad conditions caused by a severely smoky summer, it was SO determined.

This resulted in a full bloom in November. The bloom was so steadfast that I had a layer of ice covering the flower. It’s a combination I never thought I would see!

Smoke causes stress in plants, as they feel the change in the air and recognize the danger. Every plant will react to this stress a little differently. In the case of the echinacea, it delayed the bloom as it wasn’t able to earlier.

Most often, the smoke will force the plant to become stronger, root down, and force it to finish its cycle. A plant’s sole goal is to reproduce, and when there’s a threat, it will try to get its job done as soon as possible.

This pressure to go through a cycle faster also causes seeds to germinate. You may notice dormant weed seeds (and other plants) will germinate more or earlier than usual. Essentially, wildfires trigger a panic response in garden plants!

Echinacea flowers. I wish I had a picture of the ice-covered echinacea!

What the Experts Have to Say

It’s not just me who has noticed this change! According to a study published in 2020, smoke does not block out as much sunlight as you may have initially thought (something to consider in regards to your skin as well as the garden. Wear sunscreen!).

The ash that lands on the leaves of the plant can reduce photosynthesis, but only about 4% of sunlight is blocked out by the particles.

Smoke actually increases the amount of filtered light, as the haze helps to diffuse the light. The scattered sunlight allows the light to reach more than the upper leaves of a dense canopy, increasing the amount of diffused light by about a third. This means the plant can use the light twice as efficiently, and productivity increases.

However, the ash that lands on plants can clog a leaf’s stomata. They act as the plants ‘lungs,’ allowing the exchange of gas and water loss. Clogging can reduce gas exchange in the plant, triggering stress.

As for the ash, wood ash is a common soil amendment. It contains calcium, potassium, phosphorous, and other trace minerals. When manmade items burn, that’s when we don’t want the ash in our gardens and in our lungs.

Ash can clog a leaf’s stomata, triggering a stress response in the plant.

Can Smoke Contaminate Food?

This is the question I hear most often when it comes to the effects of forest fires on plants. If smoke is in the air, will your vegetables have a smoky-infused taste? A good place to turn to for the answer is the wine industry.

Many wildfires, from California’s Napa Valley to BC’s Okanagan, occur in wine country. Wildfires already affect vineyards that rely heavily on tourism and tastings, but they may also change the taste of the grape crops.

Grapes grown during a wildfire season should be tested for the compounds that can cause smoke taint. Specific to wine, smoke taint is a bad taste (ashtray-tasting kind of bad) that affects wine made from grapes exposed to smoke.

Rinsing the grapes won’t help as the smoke phenols penetrate the grape skin and bond with the sugars. Know as glycosylation, the process cannot be detected beforehand. Once the grapes are fermented into wine, the bonds break and the phenols become volatile.

However, this process is exclusive to only grapes and doesn’t always occur. Poor winemakers! Other fruits and vegetables, in my experience, don’t get any kind of smoky flavour. The vegetables and fruit taste the same as they did during a normal season.

Grapes can be affected by smoke taint if they experience too much smoke in the growing season.

Wash Your Vegetables

That being said, your vegetables and fruit will likely be covered in a layer of ash. Ash burned from trees and other plants is relatively harmless to consume, but burnt manmade items can contain chemicals, metals, and other nasty things.

Even if it is not visible to the eye, make sure to wash your vegetables and fruit beforehand. Before harvesting, rinse your plants with the garden hose. Once you bring produce inside, wash the produce again, and give your hands a good scrubbing as well.

If you’re still concerned, you can peel any produce and remove any extra leaves.

How to Protect Your Garden from Wildfires

Without a doubt, gardens will continue to be affected by wildfires and other natural disturbances. As climate change and human interference make these occurrences more common, we can expect the future of gardening to change to match the upheaval.
- Plant fire-resistant plants. There is not a ton you can do to protect your garden from a potential fire, but some plants can help to slow down fire if you live in an at-risk area. Planting in strategic zones with fire-resistant plants closest to your house and a ring of taller trees further away helps to landscape for fire safety. Here is an excellent resource from FireFree that goes into further detail.
- Wash your vegetables. As mentioned earlier, wash all your produce from your garden if you live in an area that has experienced wildfire smoke.
- Water. When plants are undergoing stress and excessive heat, they may need more water than normal. If possible, try drip irrigation and a timer so you can stay inside while your garden gets its water. Smoke also dehydrates our bodies, so make sure to keep yourself and the plants hydrated.
- Wear sunscreen. When you’re outside in the garden while it’s smoky, you are not protected from the sun. Continue to wear sunscreen and a hat, and keep hydrated as if it were a normal summer day. If you do happen to get too much sun exposure, this after-sun lotion is very helpful.
- Keep your health first. Breathing in a ton of smoke is not good for your health. Try to keep gardening tasks to a minimum when it’s smoky. Let the grass and weeds grow while you keep your lungs healthy inside.
If you had wildfires and smoke in your area, I am curious to hear how about the effects of forest fires on plants in your garden. Leave a comment down below to share your experiences.

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Stephanie Rose

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September 3, 2024
Gardening for Beginners: How to Start a Garden in 8 Simple Steps
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Thinking about starting a garden but aren’t sure where to begin? This post, all about gardening for beginners, is for you — with eight simple steps to help you start your garden.

Does this sound familiar? Looking around my yard, I see weeds, overgrown plants, and a few dried-out pots I tried to grow tomatoes in last year. I think to myself…. “How am I going to grow anything here?” “What do I do first?” “How will I know what to plant?” “If I put time and money into a garden, will it be worth it?”

Read through these steps, and don’t be afraid to start a garden. You can do this!

Disclaimer: This post contains affiliate links. See my disclosure policy for more information.

Gardening for Beginners: How to Start a Garden in 8 Simple Steps

Step 1: Choose the best location to start your garden

The best spot is where it is convenient for you – someplace you will see and walk by often. The back of the yard behind the shed may get the most sun, but if you don’t see your garden regularly, you might forget about it.
- Ideally, this spot gets morning sun – look for a spot that gets at least 6-8 hours of sun (more is ok). You might need to provide shade in the summer in hot areas like Arizona.
- Check sun exposure using the Sun Seeker app (or similar). It allows you to see the amount of sunlight each area receives.
- There should also be a water source nearby or within a hose distance.
Gardening for Beginners Step 2: Add a raised bed

Start small – you can always add more. A “4 foot by 8 foot” raised bed is a good starting point. Aim for a depth between 12 and 18 inches. It is easy to construct, and you can grow a lot of food in this size space. It is important that you can reach into the center of the bed without stepping on the soil. Add more raised beds later as your ability and experience grow. This article shares tips for designing raised bed gardens.

I recently added this metal garden bed from Garden in Minutes to my garden. It comes complete with watering grids. This bed is an excellent choice for a first garden or to add to an existing garden.

Alternatively, use several large pots or half wine barrels for container gardening.

Step 3: Set up a watering system

An automatic watering system and a hose for watering seedlings is best. Automatic watering can be simple, such as a battery-operated timer connected to your hose bib, with either a soaker hose or drip line going to the garden. Using a two-way splitter for a second hose is helpful for hand-watering new plantings and seeds.

This article shares more information about how to water your garden correctly. I use watering grids from Garden in Minutes to water my raised beds.

Gardening for Beginners Step 4: Add soil to your raised bed

One advantage of raised beds is you do not use existing soil. Once you add the perfect mix of ingredients to your raised bed, you are ready to plant. This one-time cost will probably be the most expensive part of beginning a garden.

To fill the bed, mix equal parts of:
- Compost – use several different brands or make your own.
- Peat Moss or Coconut Coir – makes soil lighter; helps with water retention.
- Vermiculite – helps retain water and allows the soil to breathe.
How much soil will you need? The volume of your raised bed or containers determines this. A 4×4 bed that is 1 foot deep will require a total of 16 cubic feet of soil. Each time you plant, add fresh compost to your soil.

After adding the soil, amend the beds with organic fertilizer.

In the future, it’s important to have your soil tested each year. A soil test can determine the health of your soil. This is the soil test kit I use. It’s very simple to use.

Step 5: Find a planting guide written for your area and follow it

Timing is crucial in gardening. Using a planting guide takes the guesswork out of what to plant and when to plant it. Local extension offices and locally-owned nurseries are a great place to begin your search for a planting guide. If you live in the low desert of Arizona, I recommend these planting guides.

Visual planting guides for vegetables, herbs, fruits, flowers & vines.
PLANTING GUIDE: Each month lists vegetables, fruit & herbs to plant outside & seeds to start indoors.

HARVEST GUIDE: Photos show what may be ready to harvest that month.

Planting dates are for the low desert of Arizona (zone 9b).
Gardening for Beginners Step 6: Plant what you like to eat

Read about the vegetables you would like to grow on Growinginthegarden.com, so you understand growing requirements, when to plant, and when to harvest.
- Best from seed: root crops (carrots, turnips, radishes, etc.), peas, beans, corn, squash, melons, cucumbers, Swiss chard.
- Best from seedlings: peppers, tomatoes, Brussels sprouts.
- Successful either way: broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower, lettuce, kale, spinach.
Check new seeds and seedlings often – water as necessary to keep the soil moist. If newly planted seeds and seedlings dry out, they will die.

Step 7: Spend time in your garden each day

Take a walk around your garden each morning – preferably while the watering system is running. Take note of what is growing well (yay!), and observe problems while they are young and easily corrected. When you catch problems (pest, disease, watering issues) while they are small, they are easily managed. Find joy in the successes and learn from the failures.

Step 8: Harvest and eat what you grow

Pick young and pick often – this encourages more production. Use the food you grow in the garden. Try new recipes and incorporate your garden harvest into your family’s food. Soups and smoothies are a great way to use vegetables from the garden.

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Angela Judd

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August 16, 2024

Six Things to Know Before You Plant Asparagus

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Learning how to grow asparagus is simple. Asparagus is a dependable favorite in the home garden. Plants take 2 or 3 years before they are ready to harvest, but then produce tasty spears for the next 10-15 years. Asparagus stalks increase in circumference and number over time — it definitely gets better with age.

I love picking a fresh spear and handing it to garden visitors during asparagus season. Their eyes light up when they taste freshly-picked asparagus for the first time. This is one vegetable that tastes best straight from the garden.

Disclaimer: This post may contain affiliate links. See my disclosure policy for more information.

6 TIPS FOR HOW TO GROW ASPARAGUS

1. Understand the process of how to grow asparagus

Asparagus roots produce individual stalks above ground.
When the stalks are harvested in the spring, this depletes the energy from the roots.
After a period of harvesting, the stalks are allowed to develop into ferns.
Vigorous and healthy ferns in the summer help ensure a good asparagus harvest the next spring. The photosynthesis that takes place in the ferns throughout the summer replenishes the energy of the depleted roots.
The ferns go dormant in winter and turn brown or yellow — at this point, they can be cut back. In cold-winter areas, leave the stalks in place until spring; they help protect the root crowns.
In the spring, shoots appear from the overwintering roots. These stalks grow larger in circumference every year as their life cycle continues.

2. Decide on the best location to plant asparagus

Because asparagus plants produce for several years, they require a dedicated bed for that period of time. Choose a location that gets at least 6-8 hours of sun daily. Avoid windy areas and areas where water puddles.

Use raised beds if possible because asparagus roots become soggy and may rot in clay soil. Asparagus needs rich, well-amended soil that is high in phosphate.

3. Decide whether to plant asparagus seeds or crowns (roots)

It’s easiest to establish asparagus by planting 1 to 2 year old crowns (roots). They produce harvestable stalks about a year after planting.

Asparagus can also be planted from seed. This method is less expensive but it requires a 2 year (or longer) wait and more care for the emerging seeds.

You may also find transplants started from seed at your local nursery.

Asparagus is classified as ‘traditional’ or ‘all male’. ‘All male’ varieties, such as Jersey Giant, Jersey Knight, Jersey Supreme, and Marte, often produce larger spears (and more of them) because they do not have to expend energy into seed production like the ‘traditional’ varieties such as Martha Washington and Purple Passion.

4. Plant asparagus correctly

Plant in early spring in cold-winter areas. In mild-winter climates, plant in the fall or winter. In the low desert of Arizona, start seeds indoors from August – November. Plant transplants outside from November – January.
Prepare the asparagus bed by adding compost and composted manure to create rich soil.
If planting from seed, plant seeds in small containers with potting soil or in the beds. Sow seeds ½ inch deep. Germination takes about 30 days. Transplant plants to the permanent bed when plants are 3 inches tall.
To plant from crowns, dig a 6-inch trench and place dormant roots in it about 12 inches apart. Cover crowns with about 2 inches of soil and gently tamp them down. Add 2 inches of soil every two weeks until the trenches are filled with soil and slightly mounded on top.

5. Wait until the asparagus is large enough before harvesting

For the first year after planting (two if started from seed), do not cut or harvest any stalks. Allow the stalks to go dormant in the fall, and cut back watering or stop completely.
New spears begin to emerge the following spring, and you can harvest any that are at least ¼ inch in diameter. Let smaller stalks grow through the summer to give energy to the roots.

6. Harvest and enjoy asparagus

Harvest spears when they are 6 to 10 inches long, and the tips are firm and tight. Do not harvest spears smaller than ¼ inch thick, and do not harvest the first year. The following year, harvest for 2 weeks. Extend the harvest each year by two weeks until you are harvesting for 6-8 weeks.
Pick asparagus every three days, more often in warm weather. Pick asparagus by snapping off at ground level with your thumb and index finger. You can also cut off just below the soil surface with an asparagus knife or other sharp knife.
Asparagus is delicious when eaten fresh in the garden. Eat or preserve it as soon as possible after picking. You can also store stalks upright in a small amount of water in the fridge.

Timeline for How to Grow Asparagus in the Low Desert of Arizona

January	Cut back dry stalks and amend with 2-3 inches of composted manure and a 2-inch layer of wood chips, straw, or compost. Feed lightly with a balanced organic fertilizer.
Early spring	Harvest stalks that are more than ¼ inch in diameter for 4-6 weeks. Let smaller ones continue to grow.
Late spring	Do not harvest; allow stalks to grow into ferns. Amend the spent bed with a balanced organic fertilizer, 2-3 inches of composted manure, and a 2-inch layer of wood chips, straw, or compost.
Summer / Fall	Water the beds and do not let them dry out. Allow ferns to grow and provide energy for roots.
Winter	Ferns will begin to turn yellow. Cut back watering and allow the asparagus to go dormant.

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Jennifer

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July 17, 2024

Vertical Garden Bed: a Unique Raised Garden You’ve Got to See

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Often, budding gardeners will think they need the perfect piece of land to start growing, but that isn’t the case at all. I know this because my own vegetable garden is contained to a small, rather odd piece of land. I had to get a bit creative with how I built it. As I couldn’t move out, I had to grow it up. Here’s my unique vertical garden and tips for creating your own. You’ll never believe how much food can be grown in a small space until you see my unique raised garden bed!

This post has been a long time in the making. It’s taken plenty of trial and error to come to this point, but I hope this information is helpful and inspiring to those of you with small spaces or uniquely shaped gardens.

For me, this raised bed planter is a unique solution that was born out of necessity. This area is an awkward small space, but now you wouldn’t believe how much food it produces!

Update! This vertical garden was left behind for the new homeowners in my previous garden, but it was one of my favourite creations.

Let me show you exactly how my vertical garden bed all came together!

This harvest all came from my vertical garden bed.

Why I Created This Unique Vertical Garden

Let me back up and explain how I got to this point with my vertical garden set up. Previously, the vegetable garden space was situated on a long strip of soil that is the only part of the garden that gets full sun.

The original set up only allowed for 20 sq ft of garden space which is not nearly enough for me. Now, the garden has more than doubled that square footage by using creative vertical raised beds!

The garden in my home was designed without much thought for the sun. A south-facing backyard has always been my dream garden, and yet, with this space, it has been an ongoing challenge.

Isn’t that always the case? You finally get that dream garden and it has its own set of unique issues.

The bottom beds of my planter are just above ground level.

Gardening in the Sun vs the Shade

I like to have the sun on my plants and shade on my fair, freckled skin. I get pretty warm in the summer months when it gets hot, and so I’m always seeking out the shade.

When I moved into this home I quickly realized that the existing design in the garden was the opposite of that. The sunny garden beds on the south side of the property were planted with trees. They didn’t do anything to shade the lawn and the upper deck which got hot blazing sun all day long through midsummer but created deep shade in the garden. UGH.

The actual square footage this planter takes up is very little.

Why I Made a Vertical Garden

The design in my backyard had a 20 foot by 5 foot section of the garden for growing vegetables. This would have been just fine except that the area is also elevated. This particular area is raised off the ground by 5 feet. There was no fencing around the edge of the garden and the previous owners had a raised plank in the middle of the bed to reach both sides of the vegetable garden.

Imagine you’re five feet up from the ground with no fence and you’re now raised an extra 6 inches up on a platform reaching down to get it the vegetables below.

It was not only a little bit nerve-wracking to garden in the space, but it didn’t take long for my back to ache like crazy.

So, I came up with a design that had two long raised beds along either side of the garden with a gravel walkway in between.

That still didn’t give enough space to plant vegetables. Each bed was 20 ft long and about 12 to 18 ft wide. In a square foot garden that means about 30-40 plants.

I couldn’t go out any further, so my only choice was to grow up, turning one bed into a three-level raised bed. This gave me an extra 40 square feet of vegetable garden, essentially doubling the space.

The “normal” bed, on the other side of the path, allows me to grow my vining vegetables such as peas.

How to Build a Vertical Garden

First, let me preface by saying building a three-tier raised bed that’s 20 feet long is not easy. I’ll admit it was not cheap either. However, the cost and effort were more than worth it for the finished product.

Each box is 12 in wide and 20 in long. To make installation as easy as possible, they were built in 10-foot-long sections that were then connected together.

To support the raised garden beds, I have mounted copper supports on the ends of each as well as in the middle where the two 10-foot-long beds are connected. The beds are also bolted to the fence behind, where my neighbour grows a grapevine—all this to say that the vertical garden beds are very sturdy.

Swiss chard is a favourite veggie of mine to grow fresh.

How to Care for a Vertical Garden

Let’s talk about how to care for the plants growing in a vertical garden like this one, because there are special considerations if you use this design. There are challenges with sunlight, water, and airflow that I have needed to overcome.

Snow peas in my vertical garden bed.

Sunlight Needs for a Vertical Garden

Just over half of the beds get full sun. The top of the three tiers gets full sun all summer long. The south-facing parts of the bottom two tiers also get full sun. And the single bed on the other side gets full sun.

The middle, back of the middle and bottom tiers, however, is a different story. These areas get mostly shade from the box above but also the grapevine that grows on the neighbour’s fence.

So when I’m planning out my garden I’m sure to include my sun lovers in the sunny parts of the beds, and edible flowers, lettuces, and shade-tolerant herbs in the second and bottom level.

Again, this all took some trial and error to get right. I originally planted strawberries on the bottom level because it was a great height for my son to pick berries from when he was young. Sadly, the shaded berries were always bland and small without enough hot summer sun, so they had to be relocated. Now, they are thriving once again!

Strawberries didn’t grow well in this vertical bed on the bottom level.

How to Water a Vertical Garden

Watering is also a bit of a challenge with the second two tiers. Obviously they don’t get rainfall, which is something that I count on living in the Pacific Northwest when it rains much of the year.

Truthfully, I don’t do a lot of watering in my garden in general. Much of the gardens are established and drought-tolerant. Of course, vegetables and annuals need a lot of water through the growing season.

Use Rain

I tend to plan my vegetable garden planting so that I’m planting seeds and transplants right before it rains. This way, the spring rains really help to plump up and settle the new plants.

Since the second and third rows don’t get any of that rain. I have to care for those differently. If there’s enough rain, the second bed will get a little bit of overflow drip from the top raised garden bed.

When there’s a downpour, some of that overflow will even drip down from that second bed into the third. However, in general, I need to have supplemental water all year round for the second and third rows if I want to grow anything in the rainy season.

Watering Systems

I set up two different watering systems to support the beds.

The first was a solar-powered drip system attached to a rain barrel. This is a great system because when the weather is sunny and hot, it triggers the watering system to go on automatically with water collected in the rain barrels. The sunnier it is, the more it waters the garden. Pretty smart!

The only issue with this system was that it broke down after just a year. As it was quite expensive, it wasn’t something that I wanted to keep repairing and working on every year. Instead, I’ve run soaker hoses through the beds and just turn on the drip system.

I use timers in the summer so that they can go on automatically when they really need that extra water.

Yellow beans in the vertical garden bed.

Providing Airflow in Raised Garden Beds

This raised bed design was meant to be open enough so that there were 18 inches above the top of the soil for the plants to grow before they would hit the top of the next bed. This gives lots of room for small shorter plants such as violas and pansies, as well as edible flowers, baby lettuces, radishes, and low-growing greens.

However, you can never plan for (or control) what happens on the other side of your fence. My neighbour has some moss-covered windows blocking the garden beds.

In theory, I think this is to keep our cat out of her garden, but sadly, all it does is restrict the airflow to the bottom bed. So far, everything has grown okay, but it’s certainly something to consider.

Lettuce seedlings growing in the vertical garden bed.

What to Plant in a Stacked Vertical Garden

Harvesting food from this garden is so simple and fun! It’s easy on my back, for starters. I often get asked how I reach the upper beds, and the answer to that is simple. I climb up onto the bottom beds and can easily reach the plants at the top to harvest the food.

Some the middle tier, I can garden without bending down!

In the upper beds, I usually plant decorative and short-growing peppers, along with tumbling tomatoes or smaller-sized tomatoes. I also put other sun-lovers up there, like eggplant and garlic.

Because the beds are raised up, I don’t trellis peas and beans up. Instead, I let them grow down. I can then easily pick them from the garden below! This is one of my favourite ways to plant trellising veggies. You can do the same method in hanging baskets too.

Your vegetables can hang down, making them easy to access from the top tier.

My favourite vegetables to grow in the garden are:

I get a great harvest by planting all of these in the raised garden beds. This organic, homegrown food will feed us for most of the summer months.

Look at this full harvest from my vertical garden bed!

Vertical Garden: a Fun Way to Garden in Raised Garden Beds

The vegetable garden is always a show stopper when my garden is part of garden tours or when friends come over to visit. My friend Tara Nolan who wrote the best-selling book Raised Bed Revolution, got particularly excited when she saw it. She even took photos of it to share on her social media.

Truly, despite all the challenges and effort to set up, I love this space. I hope you did as well!

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Stephanie Rose

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June 27, 2024
Tips for a Thriving Arizona Garden in June
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If you spend time in an Arizona garden in June, bountiful harvests and stunning blooms are common at the beginning of the month. Early June fills harvest baskets as spring and warm-season crops finish up. However, it soon transitions from warm to hot weather, shifting the garden from production to survival.

June is typically the driest and one of the hottest months in the low desert of Arizona. The average monthly rainfall is just 0.12 inches, and the average temperature is 105°F (74°C). This can be a challenging month for your yard and garden as plants and trees adjust to the heat. What you do this month can help your plants survive the hot summer months ahead.

What to do in the Low Desert Arizona Garden in June

Maximize your Arizona garden’s potential in June. Learn how to navigate the challenges of hot weather and ensure your plants’ survival. Keep reading to learn which tasks to do, how much to water, what pests to expect, what to plant, and a helpful “June Garden Task Checklist“.

When you’re in the garden this month, remember to work outside in the cooler morning and evening hours and stay hydrated.

Click on the title to jump to that section and learn more about what to do during June:

“Low desert” includes elevations below 3500 ft in the Southwest, such as the Phoenix and Tucson metro areas.

Vegetable Gardening in the Low Desert Arizona Garden in June

Hot, dry temperatures affect the garden this month. Correct timing, watering, shade, and mulching are essential.
- If you haven’t already, add a thick layer (3-5 inches) of mulch to your garden beds. I use the wood chip mulch from Arizona Worm Farm.
- Harvest any remaining onions and garlic at the beginning of the month. Cure them indoors.
- Use shade cloth to provide shade for annual vegetables or plant them in areas that receive afternoon shade. I use this shade cloth.
- If your cucumbers are bitter, it might be the heat. Remove cucumber plants and plant Armenian-type cucumbers this month. They don’t get bitter.
- Warm-season bush beans finish up this month. Plant heat-loving types like asparagus beans or black-eyed peas instead.
- Once nighttime temperatures are over 75°F (24°C), tomato pollen may not be viable and new fruit may not form.¹ If fruit is slow to ripen, bring tomatoes inside once they have a flush of color to finish ripening indoors. Learn more about how to turn green tomatoes red in this blog post.
- Consider planting a cover crop in empty beds to keep soil alive over the summer. Learn more about cover crops in this article.
- Start seeds indoors for a monsoon tomato planting. Check planting lists for additional seeds to start indoors.
- Provide support for trellis-grown watermelon and cantaloupe as needed.
- Clear out squash and other warm-season plants that have stopped producing or show signs of heat stress and disease.
- Powdery mildew is common this month. Learn how to treat it in this blog post.
Amaranth

Possible Harvests This Month:

Vegetables:

Armenian Cucumbers, Butternut Squash, Pumpkins, Cucumbers, Summer Squash, Tomatoes, Eggplant, I’itoi onions, Okra, Swiss Chard, Onions, Peppers, Carrots, Mini Pumpkins, Leeks, Garlic, Beans, Tomatillos

Herbs:

Oregano, Sage, Basil, Dill Seeds, Parsley, Parsley Seeds, Rosemary, Thyme, Mint

Fruit:

Chichiquelite, Strawberries, Grapefruit, Figs, Apples, Peaches, Watermelon, Cantaloupe, Passionfruit, Grapes, Ground Cherries

(click on the link to read “How to Grow” articles about each crop)

Vegetable Watering Guidelines:
- June is often the hardest month for plants. Do not overwater or underwater this month. Both are harmful to plants.
- If you haven’t already, check the irrigation system and timer. Run the system; inspect all drips and sprinklers for leaks and proper watering.
- As temperatures heat up, annual vegetables will need more frequent watering. Water to a depth of about 8-12 inches every 2-4 days; allow the top of the soil to dry out before watering again.
- I use the garden grids from Garden in Minutes to water my raised beds. Use code Angela10 to save $10 off $100 or GITG5 to save 5 percent on any size order.
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Low Desert Arizona in June: Pests & Wildlife to Watch Out For This Month

Squash bug eggs, nymph, and adults

Pests:

Monitor squash and melon plants for squash bugs in all stages: adults, eggs, and nymphs. Keep a soapy bucket handy to drop them into. If numbers increase or get out of hand, consider pulling the plant.

Three-lined potato bugs are a common nuisance on tomatillos and ground cherries. If spotted, check plants several times a day. Keep a soapy bucket handy to drop them into. If numbers increase or get out of hand, consider pulling the plant.

Three-lined potato beetle eggs, larvae, and adult

Leaf miners on cantaloupe or other melons. Remove damaged leaves.

You may still have aphids or chrysanthemum lace bugs on sunflowers, but hopefully, beneficial insects like lacewings and ladybugs took care of them for you. If not, you can remove damaged leaves and spray them off with water.

You may see circles cut out from leaves on roses, pomegranates, and other plants. Leaf-cutter bees are responsible and use the leaves to build their nests. It’s cosmetic damage only and nothing to worry about. These solitary bees are excellent pollinators.

Damage from leaf-cutter bees
- If rollie-pollies are eating seedlings (they especially love beans) before they sprout, an effective solution is to sprinkle a small amount of this slug and snail bait when you plant. It is iron phosphate with an attractant for slugs. It’s non-toxic to worms and safe to use.
- Monitor tomato, pepper, and eggplants for tomato hornworms. If you see insect frass (droppings) or eaten leaves, look closely for hornworms. Handpick and feed to chickens.
Tomato hornworm and frass
- Spider mites are common on beans, especially in hot, dry conditions. Spray the area often with water to discourage them. If you need to treat, a combination of Safer Insect Killing Soap and Monterey Horticultural Oil can be effective. Use at sundown and then rinse the leaves well afterward to prevent burning. Follow package instructions and use sparingly– only on affected areas to prevent harming beneficial insects.
Spider mites
- Grapeleaf skeletonizers may be present on grape vines. If spotted early, you can handpick affected leaves and dispose of eggs and caterpillars. Once a large area is affected, you may need to treat it with Bt-Bacillus thuringiensis. Use only as directed and only on affected areas.
Grapeleaf skeletonizer eggs and caterpillars
- Monitor pomegranate trees for all stages of leaf-footed bugs. If spotted, daily vigilance and dropping them into a bucket of soapy water are effective solutions to this difficult pest.
Leaf-footed eggs, nymphs, and adult

Wildlife and Beneficial Insects:
- Lovebirds and lesser goldfinch are commonly seen on sunflowers this time of year. They love the seeds, and the lesser goldfinch also enjoy eating the leaves. I love watching them in the garden.
- Bees, hoverflies, wasps, lacewings, praying mantids, syrphid flies, parasitic wasps, assassin bugs, and other beneficial insects are active now.
- Gulf fritillary butterflies in all stages, swallowtail butterflies, hummingbirds
Bee on a sunflower and swallowtail butterfly

Low Desert Arizona in June: Container Gardening Tips

Put away small pots for the summer
- If possible, put small containers away until the fall. The soil from the containers can be used as mulch or added to compost.
- Move containers to areas of your yard that receive afternoon shade naturally.
- Group containers and grow bags close together for an insulating effect.
Container Watering Guidelines:
- As temperatures heat up, monitoring containers closely and watering often is crucial. You may have to water every day. If you’re not sure, use a moisture meter to check soil moisture levels.
- If containers dry out too much, the soil may become hydrophobic. When watering, check the soil to ensure water is absorbed and not repelled by hydrophobic soil.
- Add ollas to containers to help with watering during the summer. I use ollas from Growoya. For a discount, use code GROWING.
Use ollas and a moisture meter to help you with watering containers

Flower Gardening in the Low Desert Arizona Garden in June
- Plant sunflowers. Pops of yellow flowers brighten up a summer yard and attract birds. I love this branching variety.
- To extend bloom, deadhead annual warm-season flowers such as zinnias, salvia, coreopsis, gaillardia, marigold, and cosmos. Read this post to learn about flowers that love hot summers.
- Roses continue to bloom this month. Keep spent blooms deadheaded and enjoy the blooms.
- Enjoy hollyhock blooms. Save seeds to spread around your yard and share with friends. If the plants finish up, don’t pull them out. Cut stalks back to about 6 inches above the ground.
- Apply a thick layer of mulch around the base of flowers.
- If you aren’t leaving them in the soil, pull spent bulbs or corms from beds after the foliage completely dies. Store indoors and plant again in the fall.
- Pinch back zinnia plants to encourage branching.
Which Flowers Might Be Blooming This Month:

Echinacea, hollyhock, and strawflower

Lisianthus, Scabiosa, Feverfew, Sunflowers, Passionflowers, Strawflowers, Dianthus, Statice, Hollyhocks, Vanity Verbena, Rudbeckia, Salvia, Roses, Everlasting Sweet Peas, Floss-Flower, Shasta Daisy, Echinacea, Yarrow, Gazania, Gomphrena, Gaillardia, Zinnia, Skyflower, Lobelia, Dahlia, Vinca, Coleus, Dara, Aster, Carnation, Angelonia, Cosmos, Black-Eyed Susan Vine, Alyssum, Larkspur, Campanula

(click on the link to read “How to Grow” articles about each crop)

Lisianthus

Flower Watering Guidelines:

As temperatures heat up, annual flowers will need more frequent watering. Water to a depth of about 8-12 inches every 2-4 days; allow the top of the soil to dry out before watering again.

Flowers to Plant Outside & Seeds to Start Indoors Each Month in the Low Desert of Arizona.
• PLANTING GUIDE: Each month lists annual flowers and bulbs to plant outside & seeds to start indoors.
• BLOOMING GUIDE: Photos show what may be in bloom that month.

Fruit & Fruit Trees in the Low Desert Arizona Garden in June

Peach Tree
- If you haven’t already, mulch your trees well. Adding worm castings, compost, and mulch three times a year will prepare and help your trees from high summer temperatures. Learn more in this blog post.
- Peach and fig harvests continue this month. Keep fruit picked up to discourage insects and pests. Read this article for more information about how to grow peach trees.
- Pomegranates may drop some fruit this month. Read this article for more information about how to grow pomegranates.
- Anna’s apple harvests begin this month. Fruit left too long on the plant may cook! Harvest and bring indoors. Here are our favorite recipes to use Anna apples.
- Monitor grapes for harvest readiness.
- Passionfruit flowers and fruits this month.
- Shade newly-planted fruit trees to help them survive their first summer. Monitor watering closely.
Figs, grapes, and apples

Citrus:
- There will be some citrus fruit drop this month – “June Drop” – as the tree self-thins to what it can support through the summer. Adequate watering this month is important. June is typically the driest month of the year.
- Once citrus softens, it is time to remove the remaining fruit from the tree.
- Paint or wrap any trunks exposed to sunlight to protect them from damage. Any water-based paint works to paint citrus. I prefer using tree wraps over paint. It’s like wearing sunscreen versus a swim shirt. The wrap offers better protection.
“June Drop” Citrus trees self-thin and drop fruit

Fruit Watering Guidelines: ², ³

Monitor your fruit trees for signs of water stress. Leaf curling is usually the first noticeable sign. Wet the soil from the tree trunk to just past the tree’s drip line.
- Established citrus trees should be watered once every 7-14 days to a 2-3 feet depth.
- Water annual fruit and high water use vines every 2-5 days to a depth of 8-12″.
- Water established fruit trees every 7-10 days to a depth of 18-24″.
- Grape vines need deep watering every 5 days.
- Water annual fruit and high water use vines every 2-5 days to a depth of 8-12″.
Extreme Leaf Curling From Water Stress

Herb Gardening in the Low Desert Arizona Garden in June
- Keep basil cut back above two sets of leaves to encourage branching and a full plant.
- Allow bolting/flowering dill, cilantro, fennel, and parsley to remain in the garden. This is one of the best ways to attract beneficial insects to your garden; learn more in this blog post.
- Harvest perennial herbs like sage, rosemary & thyme lightly throughout the summer. Delay heavy pruning until fall.
- Harvest oregano this month. It will flower soon. Enjoy and preserve the harvest by dehydrating or freeze-drying.
Lacewing eggs on dill, parsley seeds, and basil

Herb Watering Guidelines:
- As temperatures heat up, annual herbs will need more frequent watering. Water to a depth of about 8-12 inches every 2-4 days; allow the top of the soil to dry out before watering again.
- Water desert-adapted landscape perennial herbs (like rosemary) every 7-21 days (water to a depth of 18-24″).
- Many Mediterranean herbs, such as sage, rosemary, lavender, oregano, and thyme, are more likely to die from overwatering and root rot in the summer than from underwatering. Take care not to overwater them.
Landscape Plants in the Low Desert Arizona Garden in June
- June is not the month to prune or fertilize landscape plants, trees, and shrubs. Pruning and fertilizing encourage new growth and expose new areas to damaging sunlight, which is stressful for plants when temperatures are above 100°F (38°C).
- This month, do not add plants, trees, or shrubs to your landscape.
- Palms are an exception to planting. They grow and get established best in warm soils, and June is an excellent month to plant them. Keep the roots and area around the roots hydrated to encourage growth into the surrounding soil. Support the plants until they become established to avoid disturbing the growing roots.
- Provide shade for new plantings (less than 1 year old) if they show signs of stress, and monitor the root ball to ensure it does not dry out. This blog post discusses different ways to provide shade.
- If you have any stinknet in your yard, pull it and dispose of it so the seeds do not spread or remain in your yard. Remove it carefully if the flowers are dried and the plant is dead—it will shed thousands of seeds. Bag it up in a sealed bag and throw it in the trash.
Stinknet

Landscape Watering Guidelines: ²
- Give landscape plants a long, deep soak at the beginning of the month to prepare them for June’s hot, dry weather. Water should penetrate below the recommended 2-3 foot normal depths to leach the salts that build up in root zones and recharge the dry soil.
- Desert-adapted trees, shrubs & vines every 7-21 days (water to a depth of 24-36″ trees / 18-24″ shrubs / 8-12″ vines).
- High water use trees every 7-10 days (water to a depth of 18-24″).
- High water use shrubs every 5-7 days (water to a depth of 8-12″).
- High water use vines every 2-5 days (water to a depth of 8-12″).
Dwarf Chaste Tree

Arizona Garden in June Checklist:

Download your printable copy of the June Garden Checklist:

Which Vegetables, Herbs & Fruit to Plant in the Low Desert in June

(Click the link to read “How to Grow” articles on my website.)

SEED, TRANSPLANT, OR BOTH? S = Seed / T= Transplant

Arizona Vegetable Planting Guide helps you learn when to plant vegetables in Arizona and whether to plant seeds or transplants.

With 50 vegetables listed that grow well in Arizona’s low desert, you are sure to find one to try.

Low Desert Arizona in June: Vegetable, herb & fruit seeds to start indoors

(Click the link for seed sources.)

Seed Box Labels with planting dates for vegetables and flowers

Which Flowers to Plant in the Low Desert of Arizona in June

Gomphrena

(Click the link to read “How to Grow” articles on my website.)
- Angelonia (T)
- Celosia* thru the 15th (T)
- Coleus* thru the 15th (T)
- Cosmos (S)
- Cosmos (sulfur) (S)
- Four O’Clock (S)
- Gomphrena (T)
- Portulaca / Moss Rose (ST)
- Purslane (ST)
- Rain Lily (bulb)
- Sunflower (S)
- Vinca (T)
- Zinnia (ST)
SEED, TRANSPLANT, OR BOTH? S = Seed / T= Transplant

Low Desert Arizona in June: Flower seeds to start indoors

Verbena

(Click the link for seed source.)

Vanity Verbena

If this post about low desert Arizona gardening in June was helpful, please share it:

Sources:

1 – For further reading, please refer to the original article: “University of Delaware Cooperative Extension. (2023). Key Strategies for Soybean Management.” https://sites.udel.edu/weeklycropupdate/?p=4489.

2 – For additional information on watering practices, visit: “Association of Municipal Water Users Authority. (2023). Landscaping with Style in the Arizona Desert.” https://www.amwua.org/landscaping-with-style.

3 – https://extension.arizona.edu/sites/extension.arizona.edu/files/pubs/az1151-2021%20%282%29.pdf
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Angela Judd

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May 25, 2024
5 Ways to Keep Pill Bugs from Destroying Your Garden
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Although rollie pollies (also called pill bugs or potato bugs) usually eat decaying and decomposing plant matter, occasionally, pill bug numbers are high, and they can wreak havoc on a garden (and your favorite strawberries!). This post shares my favorite natural pill bug control methods.

To my great frustration, rollie pollies have destroyed countless seedlings in my garden. As an organic gardener, I’m unwilling to use pesticides to control pill bug numbers when they get out of balance, so I’ve had to get creative. These are my time-tested and favorite ways to keep pill bugs from killing my seeds and seedlings.

Best Organic Pill Bug Control Methods For the Home Gardener

1. Don’t give rollie pollies in the garden what they want

Pill bugs love strawberries.

Pill bugs prefer damp and dark hiding places. Try not to make life comfortable for them.

Remove wet leaves, fallen fruit, and dead plant matter from your garden. Try not to overwater your garden, as rollie pollies are also attracted to moisture.

This step can be helpful, but if you still have problems, keep reading through the rest of the ways to keep pill bugs from destroying your garden.

2. Set traps to get rid of rollie pollies in your garden

If an area of your garden has an overabundance of pill bugs, setting traps is an effective way to bring the numbers back in balance. Check traps daily, and remove and either discard or transplant the pill bugs to other areas of your yard.

EFFECTIVE WAYS TO TRAP PILL BUGS INCLUDE:

Citrus or fruit traps as a natural pill bug control method

Cut the fruit in half and place it face down in the affected area. The pill bugs will be drawn to the fruit. Check traps in the morning, and dig down a bit to collect the rollie pollies. Fruit can often be used for 2-3 days in a row.

Beer or yeast traps as a natural pill bug control method

Rollie pollies collected from yeast trap

Set a shallow container (such as a pie plate) with the rim flush to the ground; fill with beer or 1-2 Tb yeast dissolved in water. The rollie pollies will be drawn to the beer or yeast, fall in, and drown.

3. Make paper tube, newspaper, or duct tape collars how to get rid of rollie pollies in your garden

Sick of losing my seedlings to rollie pollie damage, I wrapped the stems in duct tape (sticky side out) and it worked! The seedlings are thriving with no pest damage to the stems. This technique is quick, simple, and effective. I’ve also used newspaper and toilet paper rolls as collars effectively.

Duct tape collar as a natural pill bug control method

Duct tape collar to prevent pill bug damage to plants

Wrap a small piece of duct tape (sticky side out) around the stem of a seedling. Bury one-half of the taped stem in the ground, leaving some of the tape above ground as well. Remove the tape when the stem grows larger to keep the tape from suffocating the stem.

Newspaper collar as a natural pill bug control method

Tear a couple-inch strip of newspaper and carefully wrap it around the seedling stem, burying some if possible. As the seedling grows, the paper will fall off — no need to remove it.

Paper collar to prevent pill bug damage to plants

Toilet paper tube collar as a natural pill bug control method

Slide the tube over the seedling and into the soil. It’s best to have the collar buried an inch or two below the soil.

Toilet paper tube collar to prevent pill bug damage to plants

I’ve had mixed success with this type of collar. Sometimes it works. Other times the pill bugs get inside the collar.

4. Overplant to overwhelm the rollie pollies in the garden

Certain crops are best started in the garden from seed, which makes using collar methods ineffective – the seedlings are often eaten before there is anything above ground to protect. When this happens, I usually try overplanting.

For example, instead of planting 1-2 seeds, I plant 3-4 seeds. In my experience, at least one of the seeds is overlooked or somehow protected by the other seedlings and not eaten by the rollie pollies — success!

If more than one seedling survives, thin additional seedlings by cutting at the soil level rather than pulling. (Pulling may disturb the roots of remaining seedlings.)

5. Use Slug & Snail Bait, Diatomaceous earth (DE), or Nematodes to combat pill bugs in the home garden

Using slug & snail bait to combat pill bug overpopulation:

Garden Safe Slug & Snail Bait is OMRI (Organic Materials Review Institute) Listed. This bait is very effective in areas where rollie pollies are an issue. Use according to package directions. After planting beans twice, none came up. I sprinkled a small amount of this after replanting the third time and had beans emerge within days, undamaged.

Using diatomaceous earth (DE) to combat pill bug overpopulation:

Diatomaceous earth (DE) can be an effective means of controlling pill bug populations around your plants. DE is safe to handle (for animals and pets, too) but not to inhale – wear a mask while using.

DE, or diatomaceous earth, works to kill pill bugs by dehydrating them. Diatomaceous earth is made up of tiny fossilized aquatic organisms called diatoms. When pill bugs come into contact with DE, the sharp edges of the diatoms cut through the bug’s exoskeleton and absorb the moisture, causing the bug to dehydrate and die.

DE is commonly used in organic pest control because it is non-toxic to humans, pets, and the environment. However, to ensure effective and safe usage, it is important to follow the instructions on the product label when using DE.

To use DE for pill bug control, apply a thin layer around their frequented areas, wear gloves and a mask, avoid windy conditions, and re-apply after rain. Apply in the late afternoon when the bugs are active and follow the product label for safe and effective results.

Using nematodes to combat pill bug overpopulation:

Nematodes are microscopic organisms that are often used as a natural method of controlling pests in gardens.

Specifically, the Steinernema carpocapsae nematode is effective at targeting and killing pill bugs. These nematodes are applied to the soil in the garden and penetrate the skin of the pill bug. Once inside, they release a bacteria that quickly kills the pill bug.

Using nematodes for pest control is considered a safe and environmentally friendly option as they only attack specific pests and do not harm beneficial insects or soil quality. However, it’s important to follow the application instructions carefully to ensure the nematodes are introduced properly.

Additionally, nematodes may not be as effective if the soil is too dry or too hot, so it’s important to monitor the environmental conditions in your garden to determine the best time to use this method.

Which natural pill bug control methods should you try in your home garden?

I’ve found the best way to bring pill bug numbers back into balance is by combining these methods. Effective methods for combating pill bug damage in a home garden include reducing favorable environmental conditions, creating physical barriers, using predators, manually removing the bugs, and using natural repellents.

Looking for more information about managing pests?

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Angela Judd

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May 4, 2024
How to Grow Cucamelons
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Wondering how to grow cucamelons? You’ve come to the right place. Cucamelons may look like a mouse-sized watermelon, but they taste like a cucumber with a citrus kick. Called “sandía de raton” (or “watermelon for a mouse”) in Mexico, cucamelons are also called Mexican Sour Gherkin and Mouse Melon.

No matter what you call them, cucamelons are easy to grow and resistant to pests and disease. Learn how to grow cucamelons and add this crunchy, vitamin-packed fruit to your garden.

Disclaimer: this post contains affiliate links. See my disclosure policy for more information.

6 Tips for How to Grow Cucamelons

1. Understand how cucamelons grow

Cucamelons are a tender perennial; this means they are sensitive to frost but if cared for properly can live for several seasons. Over the course of a season, cucamelons develop an underground tuber.

At the end of the season in cold climates, dig out and remove the tuber to overwinter in a sheltered location. Once the plant dies back in mild winter areas, mulch the ground around the roots well and it should survive over the winter and begin to regrow in the spring.

2. Plant cucamelons at the right time

Cucamelons thrive in warm, humid weather. Plant cucamelons outside after all danger of frost has passed in the spring, and nighttime temperatures have warmed to about 50℉.

In the low desert of Arizona (and many other hot summer areas), here are the planting dates for cucamelons:

Start seeds indoors: December – March and June – August

Plant transplants outside: February 15 – April and August 15 – September

In Arizona, spring-planted cucamelons may not produce until cooler temperatures come in the fall. You may get a spring and a fall harvest if you can keep the plant alive over the summer.

The larger spring-planted cucamelon plants often yield a larger harvest than fall-planted cucamelons. The trick with growing cucamelons in dry, hot summer areas like Arizona is to have them survive the summer heat.
PLANTING GUIDE: Each month lists vegetables, fruit & herbs to plant outside & seeds to start indoors.

HARVEST GUIDE: Photos show what may be ready to harvest that month.

Planting dates are for the low desert of Arizona (zone 9b).
3. Plant cucamelons from seed or transplants in the correct location

In all but the warmest areas, give cucamelons full sun. In very hot summer areas, grow cucamelons in a spot with afternoon shade.

Plant cucamelon seeds ¼ to ½ inch deep. Seeds generally take between 7-14 days to germinate. Because cucamelon seeds germinate slowly, it can be difficult to start them outdoors. You may want to start seeds indoors 4 weeks before the last spring frost, and then transplant them outside. You can also look for transplants at local nurseries.

Space cucamelon plants and seeds about a foot apart in a location with compost-rich, well-draining soil.

How to grow cucamelons in square foot gardening:

Plant one cucamelon plant per square. Plant the cucamelon on the edge of the garden bed and give them something to climb.

How to grow cucamelons in containers:
- Grow one plant in a large 12-18 inch container (at least 5 gallons).
- Give cucamelons in containers something to climb.
4. Care for growing cucamelons
- Plants tolerate dry conditions, but do best with regular watering.
- Fertilize cucamelon plants once or twice during the growing season with a high-potassium liquid fertilizer to encourage fruiting.
- Once vines reach about 8 feet, pinch back growing tips to encourage branching and fruiting.
- Cucamelons produce male and female flowers. Male flowers wither and die; female flowers develop into fruit after pollination.
5. Give cucamelons something to climb

Cucamelons are a sprawling vine that can be difficult to contain. Provide a trellis for the tendrils to climb as the cucamelon vines grow. Growing cucamelons vertically on a trellis allows for better airflow and helps prevent damage from feet and pests. Ripe cucamelons grown on a trellis are also easier to spot and thus harvest.

6. Harvest cucamelons at the right time

Cucamelons typically begin producing 65-75 days after transplanting. Harvest cucamelons when the fruits are the size of small grapes, firm, and bright green.

Cucamelons left on the vine past their prime will soften and develop a yellow tint. Pick cucamelons often to encourage production. Leaving cucamelons on the plant signals to the plant to stop producing.

Eat cucamelons fresh like grapes (our favorite way) or slice them and add them to salads. Enjoy them pickled (so cute!) or even added to salsa.

Harvested cucamelons will store for 5-7 days in the fridge. I love using these containers to help my produce last longer.

Bonus Tip: Save seeds from cucamelons to plant and share

At the end of the season, leave a few cucamelons on the vine until they are very overripe, soft, and yellow. These are the perfect stage to save seeds from.

How to save cucamelon seeds:
- Cut cucamelons in half and scrape seeds into a half-pint glass canning jar.
- Fill the jar partway with water.
- Allow the water to ferment for 1-2 days (not longer); this removes the gel covering around the seed that prevents germination.
- Remove the seeds and pulp that float to the top of the water.
- Rinse off the seeds that settle on the bottom of the jar, and let them dry on a paper plate.
- Store in a paper seed sleeve in a cool, dry location.
Visual planting guides for vegetables, herbs, fruits, flowers & vines.

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Robert

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April 3, 2024
Best Soil for Raised Bed Vegetable Gardening
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If you’re wondering what the best soil for raised bed vegetable gardening is, that’s an easy answer – “Mel’s Mix”. I didn’t come up with this mix; we can thank Mel Bartholomew, the author of Square Foot Gardening, for simplifying the best soil to use for raised bed vegetable gardening.

After reading Square Foot Gardening for the first time over 12 years ago, I decided to start my own garden. I followed the advice for how to make Mel’s Mix, which he calls “the most important, productive, essential, necessary, critical” ingredient for square-foot gardening success, and it worked!

Disclaimer: this post contains affiliate links. See my disclosure policy for more information.

The Best Soil for Raised Bed Vegetable Gardening is Mel’s Mix

What is in Mel’s Mix?

Regular garden soil is too dense for raised bed gardens. Mel’s Mix for square-foot gardening mixes compost, coco coir, and vermiculite, which keeps the soil light and airy.

Mel Bartholomew’s mix for the best soil for raised bed vegetable gardening is simple:
- 1 part compost – Make your own, or If you live in Arizona, the compost from Arizona Worm Farm is great. If you use bagged, a mix of several different types is best.
- 1 part coco coir
- 1 part vermiculite or perlite
- 3-5% worm castings (1/3 gallon per cubic foot)
- 1/2 cup basalt dust per cubic foot
Measure each type by volume (cubic feet), not weight.

You can also use up to 50 percent compost to 25 percent each of vermiculite and coco coir.

Compost

Coco Coir

Vermiculite

Great news for Phoenix-area residents

Fall 2020 Arizona Worm Farm (located in Phoenix, Arizona) began selling “Growing in the Garden Raised Bed Mix” that is premixed and ready to go! It is available by the bag or by the yard and also available for delivery. It contains the correct mixture of compost, coco coir, vermiculite, worm castings, and basalt dust.

Growing in the Garden Raised Bed Mix

Growing in the Garden Raised Bed Mix

What are the advantages of using this mix for raised bed vegetable gardening?

The benefits of using this soil mix for raised bed vegetable gardening include:
- It simplifies drainage – the vermiculite and coco coir absorb moisture; when they are saturated, excess moisture drains away. This means you can’t overwater.
- Seeds germinate easily in the mix.
- No weeds! It really is true. In the years I’ve been gardening, I rarely see a weed inside the raised beds. The soil remains light and airy; it does not get crusted or compacted. Plants’ roots need oxygen and water, and roots love this mixture.
Adding a balanced organic fertilizer before you plant to your soil mixture for raised beds helps give plants the food they need to grow and thrive in your garden. You are feeding the soil that feeds your plants.

Follow package directions for the amount to add.

Thinking about adding a raised bed? I love my metal garden bed (it comes with watering grids!) from Garden in Minutes.

What’s the best way to combine the ingredients in the raised bed mix?

One way to mix up the ingredients for the best soil for raised bed gardening is to combine the ingredients in batches on a tarp. Once they are combined, contents can be dumped into the raised bed. Once you fill your bed, water the soil very well.

You can also layer the ingredients (lasagna style) in the raised bed, mixing well after each addition.Make up a little extra raised bed mix to use in pots and containers

This raised bed mixture also is a perfect potting soil, so I like to mix up extra of this soil mixture and store it in a large-lidded garbage can. It’s very convenient to have the mix on hand for filling pots and for other areas in the garden.

Add more compost to raised beds each time you plant

Compost

At the end of the season, as the soil level goes down from the decomposition of the compost, add additional compost to bring the soil level back up to the top of the bed. It isn’t necessary to add additional coco coir and vermiculite to your beds each season, as the coconut coir and vermiculite do not break down as quickly. The continued practice of adding compost and feeding your soil each season improves the soil and the harvests.

Test your soil once a year

About once a year after adding soil to your raised beds, it’s important to have your soil tested. A soil test can determine the health of your soil. This is the soil test kit I use. It’s simple to use.

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Angela Judd

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March 30, 2024
Arizona Garden in April
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April’s sunny, warm days and cool nights are perfect for the garden and the gardener. However, this is not the time to procrastinate – warmer temperatures are coming, and preparing the low desert Arizona garden in April for the hot summer ahead is important.

Lavender

Jump to the Arizona Garden in April Checklist

Low desert includes elevations below 3500 ft in the Southwest, such as the Phoenix and Tucson metro areas.

Snapdragons and Ranunculus in bloom

What you do in your Arizona garden in April will affect how your garden, herbs, and flowers withstand the heat of the upcoming summer. Look at what’s growing in my Mesa, Arizona garden this month, and see my list of which garden tasks to do and the vegetables, herbs, and flowers to plant in your Arizona garden in April.

Lupine

Vegetables growing in the low desert Arizona garden in April

April is a great month for harvesting carrots planted in the fall. Leave carrots in the ground until ready to eat, but harvest carrots before the heat of the summer if you live in hot places like Arizona (the heat can turn them bitter).

A tip to remember: the shorter-variety carrots are best eaten fresh, while longer carrots are better suited to storage.

Bean seeds do best when sown directly into the soil. Plant them 1 inch deep and space them 2 inches apart. Beans should sprout in 5 to 10 days. Like many other garden plants, beans need plenty of sun to grow properly. Keep the soil moist and well-drained for happy beans.

It’s time to harvest the celery from your garden. Celery doesn’t like hot temperatures, and the flavor will be affected – it will become bitter. The celery will also bolt – meaning the plant focuses on producing seeds. You will see a central stalk become taller and literally “bolt.” If it remains in the ground, it will flower and produce seeds.

Strawberries

Artichokes

Summer Squash

Beets and Lobelia

Flowers growing in the low desert Arizona garden in April

Nasturtiums put on their big show this month. The beautiful, edible blooms are everywhere! Be sure to save seeds to share with friends and family. Nasturtiums reseed easily; once you plant them, they often return year after year.

Pictured here are Vitex (chaste tree), petunias, and blue plumbago – all of which bloom and are beautiful in Arizona gardens in April.

African Daisies

Delphinium (Larkspur)

Dahlia

Star Jasmine

Foxglove

Cornflower (Bachelor’s Button)

Strawflower

Roses

Hollyhocks

Flowers to Plant Outside & Seeds to Start Indoors Each Month in the Low Desert of Arizona.
• PLANTING GUIDE: Each month lists annual flowers and bulbs to plant outside & seeds to start indoors.
• BLOOMING GUIDE: Photos show what may be in bloom that month.

Fruit trees in the low desert Arizona garden in April

Harvest Rio Red Grapefruit (pictured here) begins in December and continues until the heat of summer.

Take advantage of citrus season by juicing citrus. Juiced citrus stores well in the fridge for several weeks and can be frozen for several months. This article shares my best tips for juicing citrus.

As blossoms become fruit on your fruit trees, fruit should be thinned before it is an inch in diameter—thin fruit within about a month after full bloom. Fruit thinned later than this lessens the chance that fruit size will increase. For more information about how to thin fruit, read this article.

Early-ripening peaches (such as Earligrande, pictured here) may be ready to pick this month. The big delicious fruit is the benefit of all that thinning you did. Enjoy the fruit of your labors, and pick them before the birds get them!

Read this article for more information about how to grow peach trees.

Passionfruit Vine

Mulberries

Container Fig Tree

Herbs in the low desert Arizona garden in April

Flowering dill attracts pollinators and is a great companion plant to many vegetables.

Lemon Verbena Transplant

Calendula

Borage

Dill

Chamomile

Bay Laurel

Low desert Arizona garden in April Checklist:

Potato bugs (rollie-pollies) are active this month. Read this post for tips on managing them organically.

Genista Caterpillar on Texas Mountain Laurel. Allow for some damage or use Bt to control if infestation is severe.

Planting:
- April is a good time to plant citrus trees and fig trees.
- Fruit trees can be planted early in the month so they have time to settle in before the heat of the summer. Look for varieties that require less than 400 chill hours, have early maturing fruit, and are self-pollinating.
- April is an excellent time to plant most trees, bushes, and perennials, as well as frost-sensitive plants such as lantana and hibiscus. Plant summer-flowering shrubs. Do not over-plant; be aware of the mature size of the plant and space accordingly.
- Think twice before planting cool-season annuals this month. It will be heating up soon, and their time in the ground will be short. Better to plant warm-season flowers when they are available.
Watering:
- Check irrigation system and timer. Run the system and inspect all drips and sprinklers for leaks and proper watering. I use this watering system from Garden in Minutes. (Use code Angela10 to save $10 off $100.)
- As temperatures heat up, annual plants will need more frequent watering. Water to the depth of your beds, and allow the top of the soil to dry out before watering again.
- Check containers with a moisture meter or ensure the top inch or so of soil has dried out before watering.
- Established citrus trees should be watered once every 10-14 days.
- Water established fruit trees once every 7-10 days.
- Wateruseitwisely.com is a helpful resource for landscape watering guidelines.
Pruning:
- Prune dead branches out of trees and shrubs.
- Spring-flowering shrubs can be pruned lightly after they bloom; water well after pruning.
- If you didn’t do it in March, clean up and remove dead or damaged wood and crossing branches on citrus.
- Remove water sprouts from lemon trees.
- If desired, train pomegranates to a wall or prune them to a manageable size.
- Don’t prune newly-planted trees or shrubs.
- Do not prune lavender, rosemary, sage, or thyme.
- Prune basil, lemongrass, and mint.
Fertilizing:

Yard to do and clean-up:

Clean out pots and containers before replanting.
- Thin fruit on deciduous fruit trees. This article will help explain the process.
- Clear out remaining cool-season vegetables.
- Collect seeds from spring wildflowers and cool-season annuals sown in October and November.
- Remove spent winter-growing annuals. Stressed plants attract pests.
- Thin warm-season annuals to keep plants from overcrowding each other.
- Clean up and remove dead or damaged wood and crossing branches on citrus.
- If you did not do it back in March, remove dead plants in yard. Look at the landscape, and make note of how plants look.
- Apply a 2-3 inch layer of mulch around the base of shrubs and trees. Mulching reduces soil temperatures and adds organic matter to the soil.
- Mulch, mulch, mulch!!! Compost is a great mulch and can be worked into the soil at the end of the season.
Use sulfur for powdery mildew on grapes

What to plant in the low desert Arizona Garden in April

Before planting:
- Prepare beds for planting – Add compost and other organic matter to the soil.
- It’s important to have your soil tested at least once a year. A soil test can determine the health of your soil. I use this test kit from Amazon.
- Add a balanced fertilizer if needed.
Vegetables, herbs & fruit to plant in the low desert in April

(Click the link to read “How to Grow” articles on my website.)

SEED, TRANSPLANT, OR BOTH? S = Seed / T= Transplant

Vegetable, herb & fruit seeds to start indoors in April

(Click the link for seed sources.)
PLANTING GUIDE: Each month lists vegetables, fruit & herbs to plant outside & seeds to start indoors.

HARVEST GUIDE: Photos show what may be ready to harvest that month.

Planting dates are for the low desert of Arizona (zone 9b).
Flowers to plant in the low desert garden in April

(Click the link to read “How to Grow” articles on my website.)
Angelonia (T)

Celosia (T)

Chamomile (T)

Coleus (T)

Coreopsis (ST)

Cosmos (S)

Creeping Zinnia (ST)

Dahlia (tuber)

Dusty Miller (T)
SEED, TRANSPLANT, OR BOTH? S = Seed / T= Transplant

Flower seeds to start indoors in the low desert in April

(Click the link for seed sources.)

Flowers to Plant Outside & Seeds to Start Indoors Each Month in the Low Desert of Arizona.
• PLANTING GUIDE: Each month lists annual flowers and bulbs to plant outside & seeds to start indoors.
• BLOOMING GUIDE: Photos show what may be in bloom that month.

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Angela Judd

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March 26, 2024
How to Grow Cucamelons
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Wondering how to grow cucamelons? You’ve come to the right place. Cucamelons may look like a mouse-sized watermelon, but they taste like a cucumber with a citrus kick. Called “sandía de raton” (or “watermelon for a mouse”) in Mexico, cucamelons are also called Mexican Sour Gherkin and Mouse Melon.

No matter what you call them, cucamelons are easy to grow and resistant to pests and disease. Learn how to grow cucamelons and add this crunchy, vitamin-packed fruit to your garden.

Disclaimer: this post contains affiliate links. See my disclosure policy for more information.

6 Tips for How to Grow Cucamelons

1. Understand how cucamelons grow

Cucamelons are a tender perennial; this means they are sensitive to frost but if cared for properly can live for several seasons. Over the course of a season, cucamelons develop an underground tuber.

At the end of the season in cold climates, dig out and remove the tuber to overwinter in a sheltered location. Once the plant dies back in mild winter areas, mulch the ground around the roots well and it should survive over the winter and begin to regrow in the spring.

2. Plant cucamelons at the right time

Cucamelons thrive in warm, humid weather. Plant cucamelons outside after all danger of frost has passed in the spring, and nighttime temperatures have warmed to about 50℉.

In the low desert of Arizona (and many other hot summer areas), here are the planting dates for cucamelons:

Start seeds indoors: December – March and June – August

Plant transplants outside: February 15 – April and August 15 – September

In Arizona, spring-planted cucamelons may not produce until cooler temperatures come in the fall. You may get a spring and a fall harvest if you can keep the plant alive over the summer.

The larger spring-planted cucamelon plants often yield a larger harvest than fall-planted cucamelons. The trick with growing cucamelons in dry, hot summer areas like Arizona is to have them survive the summer heat.
PLANTING GUIDE: Each month lists vegetables, fruit & herbs to plant outside & seeds to start indoors.

HARVEST GUIDE: Photos show what may be ready to harvest that month.

Planting dates are for the low desert of Arizona (zone 9b).
3. Plant cucamelons from seed or transplants in the correct location

In all but the warmest areas, give cucamelons full sun. In very hot summer areas, grow cucamelons in a spot with afternoon shade.

Plant cucamelon seeds ¼ to ½ inch deep. Seeds generally take between 7-14 days to germinate. Because cucamelon seeds germinate slowly, it can be difficult to start them outdoors. You may want to start seeds indoors 4 weeks before the last spring frost, and then transplant them outside. You can also look for transplants at local nurseries.

Space cucamelon plants and seeds about a foot apart in a location with compost-rich, well-draining soil.

How to grow cucamelons in square foot gardening:

Plant one cucamelon plant per square. Plant the cucamelon on the edge of the garden bed and give them something to climb.

How to grow cucamelons in containers:
- Grow one plant in a large 12-18 inch container (at least 5 gallons).
- Give cucamelons in containers something to climb.
4. Care for growing cucamelons
- Plants tolerate dry conditions, but do best with regular watering.
- Fertilize cucamelon plants once or twice during the growing season with a high-potassium liquid fertilizer to encourage fruiting.
- Once vines reach about 8 feet, pinch back growing tips to encourage branching and fruiting.
- Cucamelons produce male and female flowers. Male flowers wither and die; female flowers develop into fruit after pollination.
5. Give cucamelons something to climb

Cucamelons are a sprawling vine that can be difficult to contain. Provide a trellis for the tendrils to climb as the cucamelon vines grow. Growing cucamelons vertically on a trellis allows for better airflow and helps prevent damage from feet and pests. Ripe cucamelons grown on a trellis are also easier to spot and thus harvest.

6. Harvest cucamelons at the right time

Cucamelons typically begin producing 65-75 days after transplanting. Harvest cucamelons when the fruits are the size of small grapes, firm, and bright green.

Cucamelons left on the vine past their prime will soften and develop a yellow tint. Pick cucamelons often to encourage production. Leaving cucamelons on the plant signals to the plant to stop producing.

Eat cucamelons fresh like grapes (our favorite way) or slice them and add them to salads. Enjoy them pickled (so cute!) or even added to salsa.

Harvested cucamelons will store for 5-7 days in the fridge. I love using these containers to help my produce last longer.

Bonus Tip: Save seeds from cucamelons to plant and share

At the end of the season, leave a few cucamelons on the vine until they are very overripe, soft, and yellow. These are the perfect stage to save seeds from.

How to save cucamelon seeds:
- Cut cucamelons in half and scrape seeds into a half-pint glass canning jar.
- Fill the jar partway with water.
- Allow the water to ferment for 1-2 days (not longer); this removes the gel covering around the seed that prevents germination.
- Remove the seeds and pulp that float to the top of the water.
- Rinse off the seeds that settle on the bottom of the jar, and let them dry on a paper plate.
- Store in a paper seed sleeve in a cool, dry location.
Visual planting guides for vegetables, herbs, fruits, flowers & vines.

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Angela Judd

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March 19, 2024
Rare Vegetables and Fruits You Can Only Grow – Garden Therapy
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You won’t find these at the grocery store! These rare vegetables and fruits are hard to come by unless you grow them yourself. Out of the thousands of options of edibles out there, here are a handful of my favourites.

Radish pods

When it comes to the grocery store, produce isn’t selected for its flavour. Fruits and vegetables are chosen based on their size and ability to travel and store well. For instance, you know and recognize orange carrots. But if I grow them, I will grow the red heirloom varieties for their sweeter flavour.

Or tomatoes. The heirloom varieties ripened on the sun have THE best flavour, and those in the grocery store aren’t even close to competing.

Yes, these rare vegetables you can only grow don’t ship or store well. It’s why you won’t see them at the grocery store. But if you don’t grow them yourself, you may never get to taste their splendour.

There are an estimated quarter of a million plants we can use for agricultural purposes. So, of course, I’m only going to name a handful. Use this list of rare vegetables and fruits as a jumping-off point for your own edible garden.

Golden raspberries

The Need for Agricultural Diversity

The Food and Agricultural Organization of the United Nations estimates that we use only 3% of the quarter of a million plants available for agricultural use. Even further, ¾ of the world’s food supply relies on just 12 mega crops, including rice, wheat, and maize.

While our food system is highly productive, it’s extremely fragile. Take a look at bananas, for example. During the later half of the 19th century, the most popular variety of bananas was Gros Michel, known for its taste and resistance to bruising.

However, during the 1950s, a disease known as Panama Disease (banana wilt) swept through and destroyed commercial production of the banana. This forced producers to switch to a new disease-resistant variety, Cavendish. Which now accounts for approximately 47% of the global banana production and could be wiped out by another train of the banana wilt.

Another well-known example is the Great Famine in Ireland. One-third of Ireland’s population relied on potatoes for food, and potato blight infected most crops. An estimated 1 million people died as a direct result, either due to disease or hunger.

We become increasingly vulnerable by focusing on only a few highly productive crops. Climate change makes extreme droughts, flooding, varying temperatures, and disease outbreaks more common, and diversity is the best way to become resilient.

Nettle is actually a super green, but most consider it a weed.

Rare Vegetables and Fruits to Grow at Home

These unusual vegetables and plants are hard to come by, even at a garden centre in some cases. Oftentimes, you can get them from another gardener. Community gardens are great places to share plants!

Sunchokes

Also known as Jerusalem artichokes, these are edible tubers that can be cooked and eaten like a potato. Above ground, they sprout very tall, sunflower-like flowers. They can get up to 5-10 feet tall.

The tubers are very prolific, coming back year after year, even when you think you’ve harvested all of them. They’re very low maintenance.

They have a slightly nutty flavour and should only be eaten in controlled amounts due to causing gas and bloating.

Harvest sunchokes in the fall.

Radish Pods

While radishes may be a very popular vegetable, their seed pods are a lesser-known way of enjoying the vegetable. I came to know radish pods after volunteering at UBC to teach inner-city kids about gardening. Their gardens would be left alone in the summer, meaning the radishes would go unharvested and go to seed.

The radish pods have a slightly spicy taste and an appearance similar to edamame. You can eat them raw like a snap pea or include them in stir-fries, soups, or salads.

Rhubarb

Yes, you can technically get rhubarb at the grocery store. But most people don’t since it’s not the typical kind of plant you seek out. Instead, you usually have a plant in your backyard, or you’re gifted some rhubarb…and realize you’ve got to do something with it!

But I highly recommend we start making rhubarb more mainstream. It’s very prolific, it’s easy to grow, and it’s a perennial.

Only the stalks of rhubarb should be eaten.

Egyptian Walking Onions

This article idea all began with Egyptian walking onions since you can’t really buy them. I inherited my own from a community garden. And once you have them, you’re set.

They get their name from the unusual way they grow. The flowers that bloom at the top of the flower turn into tiny bulbs known as aerial bulbils. As the plant gets heavier, they droop down until the tiny bulbs hit the ground. They plant themselves, slowly walking around the garden.

Ground Cherries

Ground cherries grow low to the ground, with plenty of dark green leaves and small yellow flowers that turn into golden, cherry-sized fruit.

Their taste is similar to tomatillos, with a hint of pineapple flavour. And unlike some other unusual vegetables on this list, they last in their paper husks for up to 3 months. They have built-in storage with their paper husks.

All plants, including ground cherries, in the Physalis genus have papery husks known as calyx.

Luffa Gourds

There’s a chance you’ve had a luffa gourd in your house and didn’t know it. These exotic vegetables are actually most commonly used as an organic shower loofah, but they’re also edible.

They grow on very vigorous vines. When young and tender, you can eat them, and they taste like summer squash. When left to mature on the vibe, they turn fibrous and can dry into these natural shower loofahs.

Tayberry

Tayberries are a cross between raspberries and blackberries. When perfectly ripe, they have a very sweet flavour, but you have to get the timing right, or they’re quite sour.

These berries will turn to mush and fall apart very soon after you pick them. They’re best eaten straight from the vine and won’t ripen anymore once picked.

But in the end, I personally think they’re tastier than both raspberries and blackberries!

These berries take longer to ripen and need to be a bit squishy so they’re not too sour.

Cucamelons

You might know these little green fruits as mouse melons or Mexican sour gherkins. These were a common fruit eaten by the Aztec people and have lost popularity over the years. But they look like little grape-sized watermelons!

Cucamelons taste almost like a citrusy cucumber. I like to pickle them or toss them into salads. Or popped straight from the vine and into my mouth.

Eat a cucamelon in its entirety, popping the skin, seed, and fruit in your mouth.

Honourable Mentions

As I’ve mentioned, I could add many rare vegetables and other edibles to the list. Here are a few unusual vegetables and plants that are worth mentioning:
- Lovage
- Mulberries
- Salmonberries
- Saskatoon berries
- Tomatillo
- Endive
- Winter radishes
- Green amaranth
- Goumi berry
Goumi Berry (Elaeagnus multiflora)

More Edibles to Consider Growing
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Stephanie Rose

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March 4, 2024
Arizona Garden in March
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What grows in low desert Arizona gardens in March? I’ll show you. All of these pictures come from my garden in Mesa, Arizona.

March in the low desert Arizona garden is one of the most beautiful times of the year. Take time to enjoy your garden this month. Many gardens offer garden tours during the month of March. Enjoy the beautiful weather at the tour and take note of plants, flowers, trees, and vegetables you see growing and would like to add to your landscape.

Low desert includes elevations below 3500 ft in the Southwest, such as the Phoenix and Tucson metro areas.

“Spring makes its own statement, so loud and clear that the gardener seems to be only one of his instruments, not the composer.”

Geoffrey Charlesworth

There are important garden tasks to do in March, such as pruning frost-damaged plants and thinning fruit trees (see a list of garden tasks for March below). Harvests from fall plantings are ending as planting continues for the spring and summer gardens.

Keep reading for garden inspiration, a March garden checklist, and a list of vegetables, herbs, and flowers to plant in your low desert Arizona garden in March.

Vegetables growing in the low desert Arizona garden in March

Cucumbers grow best with a long warm (but not hot) growing season. To overcome the challenges of growing cucumbers in Arizona, the key is to plant cucumbers early in the season and plant short-season varieties that will ripen before the hottest days of summer.

Asparagus harvests begin in late February and continue throughout the month of March. Harvest stalks that are at least ¼ inch in diameter. Let smaller stalks grow through the summer to give energy to the roots.

If you aren’t growing asparagus, consider dedicating a 4 foot by 4 foot raised bed for growing it. Plant asparagus November through February in the low desert of Arizona.

Squash

Swiss Chard

Tomatillos

Celery

Tips for growing flowers in the low desert Arizona garden in March

In Arizona, plant sunflowers from February through July, so you can enjoy the blooms nearly year-round. Pops of yellow flowers brighten up a summer yard. Learning how to grow sunflowers is an easy way to add color and variety to a summer garden and yard.

Purple lilac vine is in bloom in February and March. This Australian native flowers in winter. It can be grown on a trellis or as a ground cover. The vine has green foilage when not in flower.

Wildflowers planted back in the fall put on a show for much of February and March. Plant wildflower seeds of cosmos, poppies, lupine, blue flax and more in the fall.

Calendula

Poppy

Firecracker Penstemon

Viola

Parry’s Penstemon

Evening Primrose

Snapdragon

Coreopsis

Lavender

Ranunculus

Flowers to Plant Outside & Seeds to Start Indoors Each Month in the Low Desert of Arizona.
• PLANTING GUIDE: Each month lists annual flowers and bulbs to plant outside & seeds to start indoors.
• BLOOMING GUIDE: Photos show what may be in bloom that month.

Fruit trees in the low desert Arizona garden in March

Plant fruit trees this month. Look for trees with low chill hours (less than 400), mature early, and self-pollinate. This fruit planting guide has a list of fruit trees that do well in the low desert of Arizona.

As blossoms become fruit on your fruit trees, fruit should be thinned before it is an inch in diameter. Thin fruit within about a month after full bloom. Fruit thinned later than this lessens the chance that fruit size will increase. For more information, read this article.

Herbs in the low desert Arizona garden in March

Harvest chamomile when the petals are flat or beginning to fall back from bud. Harvest flowers on a sunny day after dew has dried. Flowers can be air-dried or dried in a dehydrator – they are dry when flower crumbles easily. Use 1 teaspoon of dried petals in a diffuser per cup of water for tea. If using fresh flowers for tea, double amounts – drying flowers concentrates the flavor and oils. Read this article for more information about how to grow chamomile.

Consider planting borage next to each tomato plant. The bees and your tomatoes will thank you. Read this article for more information about how to grow borage.

Read this article for more information about how to grow calendula.

Low Desert March To-Do List

Planting:
- March is a great time to plant citrus trees and the best month to plant watermelon.
- Plant fruit trees early in the month so they have time to settle in before the summer heat. Look for varieties that require less than 400 chill hours, have early maturing fruit, and are self-pollinating.
- Plant roses this month on the north or east sides of the yard that receive afternoon shade in the summer. Use code GARDENAZ24 at Heirloom Roses for 20% off through 2024.
- Plant cold-tolerant trees, bushes, perennials, and frost-sensitive plants such as lantana and hibiscus. Plant summer flowering shrubs. Do not over-plant; be aware of the plant’s mature size and space accordingly.
- Although the weather is still cool, think twice before planting cool-season annuals this month. It will be heating up soon, and their time in the ground will be short. Better to plant warm-season annuals when they are available.
- Plant blackberries and grapes this month.
- Plant ginger and turmeric rhizomes this month.
Watering:
- Check irrigation system and timer. Run system, and inspect all drips and sprinklers for leaks and proper watering.
- As temperatures heat up, annual plants will need more frequent watering. Water to a depth of about 6 inches, and allow top of soil to dry out before watering again.
- Check containers with a moisture meter or make sure top inch or so of soil has dried out before watering.
- Water established citrus trees once every 2-3 weeks.
- Water established fruit trees once every 7-10 days.
- Wateruseitwisely.com is a helpful resource for landscape watering guidelines.
Pruning:
- Pinch back basil plants when they have several sets of true leaves to encourage bushy plants rather than spindly ones.
- Prune frost damage from frost-tender plants such as hibiscus and lantana this month.
- If you haven’t already, prune established roses and deciduous fruit trees. Clean up all fallen leaves and debris to discourage disease and insects.
- Prune dead branches out of cold-hardy trees and shrubs.
- If you didn’t do it in February, prune grape vines before they begin to leaf out.
- March is the perfect month to prune evergreen trees and shrubs.
- Clean up and remove dead or damaged wood and crossing branches on citrus.
- Do not prune newly-planted trees or shrubs.
Fertilizing:
- Fertilize deciduous fruit trees and citrus if you didn’t do it in February.
- Prepare soil for planting by adding compost.
- Do not fertilize newly-planted trees or shrubs.
- Fertilize trees and shrubs in your yard as needed. Native trees and shrubs do not require extra fertilization.
- Fertilize blackberries with a balanced fertilizer.
Yard to do and clean-up:
- Thin fruit on deciduous fruit trees. This article will help explain the process.
- Remove spent winter-growing annuals. Stressed plants attract pests.
- Thin warm-season annuals to keep plants from overcrowding each other.
- Clean up and remove dead or damaged wood and crossing branches on citrus.
- Remove dead plants in yard. Look at the landscape and make note of how plants look and their performance. March is a good time to transplant and move plants within your yard to areas where they get more or less sun, depending on the needs of the plants.
- Apply a 2-3 inch layer of mulch around the base of shrubs and trees. Mulching reduces soil temperatures and adds organic matter to the soil.
What to plant in the low desert Arizona garden in March:

Before Planting:

Vegetables, Herbs & Fruit to plant in the low desert in March

(Click the link to read “How to Grow” articles on my website.)

After March 15th
Bean (Lima) (S)

Bean (Bush & Pole) (S)

Bean (Yardlong) (S)

Edamame (S)
SEED, TRANSPLANT, OR BOTH? S = Seed T= Transplant

Vegetable, Herb, and Fruit Planting Guide for the Low Desert of Arizona

The ultimate resource for gardeners in arid regions with hot summers and mild winters—designed specifically for the low desert of Arizona.
It features information on how and when to start seeds indoors and when to transplant them outside for nearly 100 different fruits, vegetables, and herbs.

Vegetable, herb, and fruit seeds to start indoors during March

(Click the link for seed sources.)
PLANTING GUIDE: Each month lists vegetables, fruit & herbs to plant outside & seeds to start indoors.

HARVEST GUIDE: Photos show what may be ready to harvest that month.

Planting dates are for the low desert of Arizona (zone 9b).
Flowers to plant in the low desert garden in March

(Click the link to read “How to Grow” articles on my website.)
Alyssum (ST)

Amaryllis (bulb)

Angelonia (T)

Bee Balm (ST)

Canna (rhizome)

Chamomile (T)

Coleus (T)

Coreopsis (ST)

Cosmos (S)

Creeping Zinnia (ST)

Dahlia (tuber)

Dusty Miller (T)

English Daisy (T)

Feverfew (T)

Four O’Clock (S)

Gaillardia (ST)

Gazania (T)

Geranium (T)

Gomphrena (T)
SEED, TRANSPLANT, OR BOTH? S = Seed T= Transplant

Flower seeds to start indoors in the low desert in March

(Click the link for seed sources.)

Flowers to Plant Outside & Seeds to Start Indoors Each Month in the Low Desert of Arizona.
• PLANTING GUIDE: Each month lists annual flowers and bulbs to plant outside & seeds to start indoors.
• BLOOMING GUIDE: Photos show what may be in bloom that month.

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Angela Judd

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February 26, 2024
Arizona Garden in February
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Keep reading for garden inspiration, a February garden checklist, and a list of vegetables, herbs, and flowers to plant in your low desert Arizona garden in February.

Low desert includes elevations below 3500 ft in the Southwest, such as the Phoenix and Tucson metro areas.

“The February sunshine steeps your boughs and tints the buds and swells the leaves within.” — William C. Bryant

Vegetables growing in the low desert Arizona garden in February

After the last frost date in February is the ideal time to plant tomatoes and peppers in your low desert Arizona garden. Getting them planted as early as possible is important because the summer heat shortens their growing season.

Planting as early as possible after the danger of frost has passed gives the greatest chance for a successful season.

Harvests from fall planting continue throughout February, even as you are planting your spring garden and making plans for your summer garden.
When the cauliflower head is about 6 inches across, and the buds are tight and unopened, it is time to harvest. Cut off below the head with a sharp knife.

Unlike broccoli, cauliflower doesn’t produce side stems after the main head is harvested, so remove the remaining plant from the bed. Cauliflower will store for several weeks in the refrigerator.
Harvest cabbage when heads are about the size of a softball and firm. Give cabbages plenty of room to spread out. Keep plants evenly moist. Feed cabbages with compost tea or compost throughout the season.

Warmer temperatures mean many brassicas will bolt and flower. Allow them to flower to attract pollinators, or remove to make room for spring planting.
- February in the Arizona garden is all about tomatoes. If we had a mild winter, tomatoes planted back in July are ripening and doing well this month.
- If there was a hard freeze and the tomatoes suffered damage, wait until after the last frost date to see if new growth appears. Cut the plant back just above the new growth, and it may continue growing. If the plant is severely damaged, consider removing it.
- February is also the best time to plant tomatoes in your Arizona garden. If temperatures are unseasonably cold, wait a bit or cover new plants.
- Plant seedlings deeply and choose early-season varieties.
- Look for varieties that mature in 60-90 days from the date of transplant. For more tips, read my blog post, “10 Tips for Growing Tomatoes. ”
For the best flavor, water celery well the day before picking. Use a knife to harvest a single stalk from the outside of the plant when it reaches the desired height. Harvest stalks continuously as needed.
Garlic should be growing well during February

Tips for growing flowers in the low desert Arizona garden in February
- Aphids and other pests may appear this month. They like the cooler temperatures and new growth that happens in February.
- Genista caterpillars often appear on Texas Mountain Laurel (pictured here) this month. The caterpillars form loose webbing on the foliage and feed on leaves. Normally there is no significant damage done to the plant. Still, if control is needed, Bt (or Bacillus thuringiensis), available on Amazon, can be used when caterpillars are small and feed on leaves.
Fertilize annual flowers this month—water well before and after fertilizing plants.

Decide where you are going to plant warm-season annuals. Begin planting seeds outdoors this month.
Cool-season annual flowers planted from September through December, such as stock (pictured here) will bloom through March. As temperatures climb into the 80’s, water annuals more often.

Keep a garden journal of what flowers (in your yard or around the neighborhood) did well this season.
Sweet Peas

Monach Magnet Milkweed

Desert Milkweed

Lavender

Guara

Ranunculus

Nasturtiums

Flowers to Plant Outside & Seeds to Start Indoors Each Month in the Low Desert of Arizona.
• PLANTING GUIDE: Each month lists annual flowers and bulbs to plant outside & seeds to start indoors.
• BLOOMING GUIDE: Photos show what may be in bloom that month.

Fruit trees in the low desert Arizona garden in February

If deciduous fruit trees have been slow to lose leaves, remove leaves from tree to help usher in dormancy. Spray with a horticultural oil (I use this one from Amazon) this month.
Prune deciduous fruit trees this month before bud break and blossoms appear, if possible. Once blooming finishes, fertilize and water well.
Many different varieties of citrus are ripening this month. Best way to test for sweetness? Pick one and try it! Water established citrus once every 2-3 weeks in February.
Herbs in the low desert Arizona garden in February

Cilantro is a cool-weather-loving herb. It grows quickly and should be harvested often to keep it from going to seed. Once it does seed and flower, the seed is called coriander. Learn more about how to grow cilantro here.

Harvest and preserve cool-season herbs (I use my freeze-dryer). I also love adding chopped herbs and olive oil to herb freezer trays.

Dill grows as an annual in our cool winters but will begin to bolt and flower as the weather warms. Harvest as needed. Dill is also a great trap crop for tomato hornworms and a host plant for caterpillars. Let it flower to attract pollinators.

Learn more about how to grow dill in this blog post.
Rosemary is blooming this month. Harvest as needed. Let it flower to attract pollinators. This article shares more information about how to grow rosemary.
Low Desert Arizona Garden February To-Do List
- Amend garden beds with compost.
- Check your watering system. Note how long it takes to water your beds to a depth of 12 inches. Look for leaks, replace batteries in timers and clogged emitters.
- Begin spring planting. As long the forecast shows warming weather, plant tomatoes and peppers around the 15th of the month. (See list of other vegetables to plant below)
- Look at your garden and make a plan for your summer garden. Research different varieties to see which do well in Arizona. A good rule of thumb is to look for short-season crops. Be sure to rotate where you plant each year.
- If you didn’t do it in January, start slips for planting sweet potatoes.
- February is a good time to propagate succulents.
- Plant spring flowering annuals this month. (See list below)
- Plant trees, bushes, and perennials, and protect new plants from freezing temperatures.
- Bare-root roses are in-stock at local nurseries – it’s a great time to plant roses.
- Plant bare-root fruit trees and berries this month. Look for trees that have low chill hours (less than 400), mature early, and self-pollinate. Learn how to plant fruit trees in this blog post. For more information about choosing fruit trees, see my Fruit Planting Guide.
- Wait until mid-to-late February to plant frost-sensitive plants such as lantana and hibiscus.
- Plant grapes and blackberries this month or next.
Plant tomatoes after Feb. 15th in your Arizona vegetable garden
- Trees and shrubs may not need supplemental watering if we get heavy rain. If not, water shrubs and trees no more than once every 14-28 days. Wateruseitwisely.com is a helpful resource for landscape watering guidelines.
- As temperatures climb into the 80’s, water annuals more often.
- Check containers with a moisture meter or ensure the top inch or so of soil has dried out before watering.
- Water established citrus trees once every 2-3 weeks.
- Water established fruit trees once every 10-14 days.
Pruning:
- Prune frost-tender plants such as hibiscus and lantana late in the month. When pruning frost-damaged plants, wait and prune after new growth begins.
- If you didn’t prune roses in January, prune established roses this month. Clean up all fallen leaves and debris from around roses to discourage disease and insects.
- Prune dead branches out of trees and shrubs at the end of the month.
- Pruning citrus isn’t necessary, but after the danger of frost is past is the time to shape citrus trees a little (if you want to). Try to let the citrus foliage grow to about knee-high. Fruit production is best on the lower two-thirds of the tree, so it’s best not to “skirt” citrus trees. Lower branches also protect the trunk from sun damage. Clean out dead wood. Remove any suckers growing from below the graft.
- Prune grape vines.
- If you didn’t prune deciduous fruit trees in January, prune them this month. Prune dead, diseased, broken, and crossing branches and water sprouts (branches shooting straight up from limbs of trees).
Fertilizing:

Learn more about how to fertilize fruit trees in this blog post.

Protect from freezing temperatures (below 32°F.):

Snow in Mesa, Arizona on February 21, 2013

Arizona sunset in February with Fantex Ash tree
- Have burlap or frost cloth on hand to protect newly planted citrus, small lemon and lime trees, and other frost-sensitive plants from frost. Our last frost date is normally February 14th, but keep an eye on the weather just in case.
- Be aware that container plantings are more susceptible to freezing temperatures than those in the ground.
- Read this article or watch this video for more information on protecting plants during freezing temperatures.
Yard clean-up:

Broccoli left to flower

Bolting arugula
- Lettuce and other cool-season crops will bolt and flower as the weather heats up. Remove them by cutting off at the roots and add them to compost or allow them to flower to attract pollinators.
- As winter vegetables end their life cycle, keep an eye out for garden pests like aphids.
- If you overwintered tomatoes and peppers, as new growth begins to appear, trim the plant back and fertilize to encourage growth. If plants do not appear to return as temperatures warm, replace them with new plants in a different garden area.
What to plant in the low desert Arizona garden in February:

Before planting:
- Prepare beds for spring planting – Add compost and other organic matter to the soil.
- It’s important to have your soil tested at least once a year. A soil test can determine the health of your soil.
- Add a balanced organic fertilizer if needed.
Vegetables, Herbs & Fruit to plant in the low desert in February

(Click the link to read “How to Grow” articles on my website.)
Lavender (T)

Lemon Balm (T)

Lemon Grass (T)

Lemon Verbena (T)

Lentil (S)

Marjoram (T)

Mint (T)

Mustard (T)

Onion (Green) (S)

Oregano (T)
After February 15th (or after the last spring frost)

SEED, TRANSPLANT, OR BOTH? S = Seed T= Transplant

Vegetable, Herb, and Fruit Planting Guide for the Low Desert of Arizona

The ultimate resource for gardeners in arid regions with hot summers and mild winters—designed specifically for the low desert of Arizona.
It features information on how and when to start seeds indoors and when to transplant them outside for nearly 100 different fruits, vegetables, and herbs.

Vegetable, herb, and fruit seeds to start indoors during February

(Click the link for seed sources.)
PLANTING GUIDE: Each month lists vegetables, fruit & herbs to plant outside & seeds to start indoors.

HARVEST GUIDE: Photos show what may be ready to harvest that month.

Planting dates are for the low desert of Arizona (zone 9b).
Flowers to plant in the low desert in February

(Click the link to read “How to Grow” articles on my website.)

SEED, TRANSPLANT, OR BOTH? S = Seed T= Transplant

Flower seeds to start indoors in the low desert in February

(Click the link for seed sources.)

Flowers to Plant Outside & Seeds to Start Indoors Each Month in the Low Desert of Arizona.
• PLANTING GUIDE: Each month lists annual flowers and bulbs to plant outside & seeds to start indoors.
• BLOOMING GUIDE: Photos show what may be in bloom that month.

Visual planting guides for vegetables, herbs, fruits, flowers & vines.

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Angela Judd

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January 29, 2024
How to Grow Sweet Potatoes
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Learning how to grow sweet potatoes is surprisingly easy – just a few plants provide a plentiful harvest. Sweet potatoes need a long warm growing season, are heat-tolerant and drought-resistant, and have very few pests or diseases. All of this makes them perfect for growing in the low desert of Arizona (yay!) Here are eight tips for how to plant, grow, and harvest sweet potatoes.

Disclaimer: This post contains affiliate links. See my disclosure policy for more information.

8 Tips for Growing Sweet Potatoes

1. Plant sweet potatoes at the correct time

Plant sweet potatoes 2-3 weeks after the last spring frost, when the soil temperature is at least 65℉.

In the low desert of Arizona:

2. Prepare soil correctly before planting sweet potatoes

Sweet potatoes need well-draining slightly-acidic soil. Amend clay soils heavily with compost. Soil should be worked to a depth of at least 8-10 inches. Sweet potatoes can also be grown in raised beds or large containers. Plant in an area with full sun and/or afternoon shade in the low desert.

3. Plant sweet potato slips

Sweet potatoes aren’t grown from seed like many other vegetables. Rather, they are started from slips – rooted sweet potato shoots grown from a mature sweet potato. Grow your slips from sweet potatoes or purchase slips.

‘Soil method’ for starting sweet potato slips

‘Water method’ for starting sweet potato slips

Root slips before planting

Looking for more information about how to grow sweet potato slips? This article about how to grow sweet potato slips will help.

Most varieties of sweet potatoes do well in the long growing season of the low desert. In higher elevations or places with shorter growing seasons, choose from quickly-maturing varieties such as ‘Beauregard’ and ‘O’Henry’.

Plant rooted slips deeply, burying slips up to top leaves. Space sweet potato plants 12-18 inches apart. Water well and feed with a starter solution high in phosphorus (if your soil lacks phosphorus) to ensure the plants root well.

4. Allow vines to grow for larger sweet potatoes

Occasional small harvests of greens to eat is fine, but do not prune back vigorous vines for the best-sized harvests. The size of the sweet potatoes is determined by the amount of sunlight the leaves receive. More sunlight and leaf surface area that receives sun means larger sweet potatoes.

If space is an issue, consider growing vines vertically up a trellis to allow sunlight to reach the leaves and produce larger sweet potatoes.

Check longer vines occasionally and lift them up to keep them from rooting in the soil along the vines. Additional rooting will take energy away from the main tubers and instead create many undersized tubers.

5. Water deeply, less often

Deep watering is crucial for sweet potatoes during hot dry periods. However, it is important to let soil dry out somewhat between waterings. Sweet potatoes tolerate dry conditions better than soggy ones.

6. Harvest sweet potatoes at the right time

Here are a few things to look for before harvesting sweet potatoes:
- The longer a crop is left in the ground, the higher the yield.
- Sweet potatoes may be ready to harvest between 90-120 days after planting.
- Harvest when tubers are at least 3 inches in diameter.
- Harvest sweet potatoes before the first fall frost.
- When the leaves and vines begin turning yellow, production is slowing down. Leave them in the ground a little longer for the largest tubers.
- Once the top growth has died down, remove foliage and harvest.
7. Harvest sweet potatoes correctly

Once you have decided to harvest the sweet potatoes, cut back vines and loosen soil around the plant with a spade fork. Carefully find the primary crown of each plant, and use your hands to dig up the tubers. Shake off any excess dirt, and handle tubers carefully to prevent bruising. Keep harvested sweet potatoes out of direct sunlight. Do not wash sweet potatoes until ready to use for longest storage life.

8. Cure and store sweet potatoes correctly for the longest storage life

To cure sweet potatoes, set potatoes in a single layer (not touching) in a warm (about 80℉) humid area for 10-14 days. Curing allows cuts and bruises to heal and helps the starches inside the sweet potatoes convert to sugars.

HOT CLIMATE SWEET POTATO CURING TIP:

Put the sweet potatoes in a single layer in a plastic grocery sack (cut a couple of holes in the bag for ventilation) to trap moisture in a warm spot INSIDE your house. Outside temperatures may not be the right temperature for sweet potatoes to cure properly.

The curing process is complete if the skin remains intact when the sweet potatoes are rubbed together. Sprouting will occur if potatoes are cured too long. After curing, throw out or immediately use any bruised potatoes.

Store cured sweet potatoes in a cool (about 55-65℉ if possible) dry area for the longest storage.

HOT CLIMATE SWEET POTATO STORAGE TIP:

If stored above 70°F, the storage life of sweet potatoes is shortened considerably. When outside temperatures are cool, store sweet potatoes in the garage in a box with individual potatoes wrapped in newspaper. Once temperatures heat up, bring the box inside to your coolest room. Check potatoes often and use any right away that show signs of sprouting or rotting.

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Dawn Schroeder

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January 20, 2024
How to Grow Sweet Potatoes
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Learning how to grow sweet potatoes is surprisingly easy – just a few plants provide a plentiful harvest. Sweet potatoes need a long warm growing season, are heat-tolerant and drought-resistant, and have very few pests or diseases. All of this makes them perfect for growing in the low desert of Arizona (yay!) Here are eight tips for how to plant, grow, and harvest sweet potatoes.

Disclaimer: This post contains affiliate links. See my disclosure policy for more information.

8 Tips for Growing Sweet Potatoes

1. Plant sweet potatoes at the correct time

Plant sweet potatoes 2-3 weeks after the last spring frost, when the soil temperature is at least 65℉.

In the low desert of Arizona:

2. Prepare soil correctly before planting sweet potatoes

Sweet potatoes need well-draining slightly-acidic soil. Amend clay soils heavily with compost. Soil should be worked to a depth of at least 8-10 inches. Sweet potatoes can also be grown in raised beds or large containers. Plant in an area with full sun and/or afternoon shade in the low desert.

3. Plant sweet potato slips

Sweet potatoes aren’t grown from seed like many other vegetables. Rather, they are started from slips – rooted sweet potato shoots grown from a mature sweet potato. Grow your slips from sweet potatoes or purchase slips.

‘Soil method’ for starting sweet potato slips

‘Water method’ for starting sweet potato slips

Root slips before planting

Looking for more information about how to grow sweet potato slips? This article about how to grow sweet potato slips will help.

Most varieties of sweet potatoes do well in the long growing season of the low desert. In higher elevations or places with shorter growing seasons, choose from quickly-maturing varieties such as ‘Beauregard’ and ‘O’Henry’.

Plant rooted slips deeply, burying slips up to top leaves. Space sweet potato plants 12-18 inches apart. Water well and feed with a starter solution high in phosphorus (if your soil lacks phosphorus) to ensure the plants root well.

4. Allow vines to grow for larger sweet potatoes

Occasional small harvests of greens to eat is fine, but do not prune back vigorous vines for the best-sized harvests. The size of the sweet potatoes is determined by the amount of sunlight the leaves receive. More sunlight and leaf surface area that receives sun means larger sweet potatoes.

If space is an issue, consider growing vines vertically up a trellis to allow sunlight to reach the leaves and produce larger sweet potatoes.

Check longer vines occasionally and lift them up to keep them from rooting in the soil along the vines. Additional rooting will take energy away from the main tubers and instead create many undersized tubers.

5. Water deeply, less often

Deep watering is crucial for sweet potatoes during hot dry periods. However, it is important to let soil dry out somewhat between waterings. Sweet potatoes tolerate dry conditions better than soggy ones.

6. Harvest sweet potatoes at the right time

Here are a few things to look for before harvesting sweet potatoes:
- The longer a crop is left in the ground, the higher the yield.
- Sweet potatoes may be ready to harvest between 90-120 days after planting.
- Harvest when tubers are at least 3 inches in diameter.
- Harvest sweet potatoes before the first fall frost.
- When the leaves and vines begin turning yellow, production is slowing down. Leave them in the ground a little longer for the largest tubers.
- Once the top growth has died down, remove foliage and harvest.
7. Harvest sweet potatoes correctly

Once you have decided to harvest the sweet potatoes, cut back vines and loosen soil around the plant with a spade fork. Carefully find the primary crown of each plant, and use your hands to dig up the tubers. Shake off any excess dirt, and handle tubers carefully to prevent bruising. Keep harvested sweet potatoes out of direct sunlight. Do not wash sweet potatoes until ready to use for longest storage life.

8. Cure and store sweet potatoes correctly for the longest storage life

To cure sweet potatoes, set potatoes in a single layer (not touching) in a warm (about 80℉) humid area for 10-14 days. Curing allows cuts and bruises to heal and helps the starches inside the sweet potatoes convert to sugars.

HOT CLIMATE SWEET POTATO CURING TIP:

Put the sweet potatoes in a single layer in a plastic grocery sack (cut a couple of holes in the bag for ventilation) to trap moisture in a warm spot INSIDE your house. Outside temperatures may not be the right temperature for sweet potatoes to cure properly.

The curing process is complete if the skin remains intact when the sweet potatoes are rubbed together. Sprouting will occur if potatoes are cured too long. After curing, throw out or immediately use any bruised potatoes.

Store cured sweet potatoes in a cool (about 55-65℉ if possible) dry area for the longest storage.

HOT CLIMATE SWEET POTATO STORAGE TIP:

If stored above 70°F, the storage life of sweet potatoes is shortened considerably. When outside temperatures are cool, store sweet potatoes in the garage in a box with individual potatoes wrapped in newspaper. Once temperatures heat up, bring the box inside to your coolest room. Check potatoes often and use any right away that show signs of sprouting or rotting.

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Dawn Schroeder

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January 19, 2024
How to Grow Tomatoes in Arizona – 10 Tips for Growing Tomatoes
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Learning how to grow tomatoes may feel overwhelming. Entire books have been written about growing tomatoes, but these 10 tips will fast-track you to tomato-growing success.

The taste of homegrown tomatoes is the reason many people begin a garden. In the United States, it is said that more gardeners grow tomatoes than any other vegetable.

Wondering about how to grow tomatoes in Arizona, the low desert, and other hot climates? Keep reading; there is plenty of information for you too!

Low desert includes elevations below 3500 ft in the Southwest, such as the Phoenix and Tucson metro areas.

Disclaimer: This post contains affiliate links See my disclosure policy for more information.

10 Tips for How to Grow Tomatoes

Tip #1 for Growing Tomatoes: Choose a tomato variety suited for your tastebuds and climate

Decide which type of tomato you want to eat. Different types of tomatoes are suited for eating fresh, canning, making salsa, or cooking.

Choose a type of tomato suited to your climate for the best chance of success. Because of the heat of Arizona summers, we have a short growing season. Look for plants with short (60-90) days to maturity. These are often types with small to medium fruit or Roma or paste varieties.

Varieties highly recommended for desert climates like Arizona include: Punta Banda, Celebrity, Pearson, Speckled Roman*, Black Krim*, Atomic Grape*, Sungold, Sweet 100, Yellow Pear, Canestrino*, and Cherokee Purple.

(* Local Master Gardener Carol Stuttard recommended varieties.)

Florida gardeners battle high heat and humidity. The Everglades tomato does well in those conditions.

Different climates have other considerations and growing conditions. Ask a local grower for varieties that do well in your area.

Tip #2 for How to Grow Tomatoes: Plant tomatoes at the correct time

To give tomato plants the best chance for success, plant tomatoes right after the last spring frost date. This is usually around February 15th – March for the low desert of Arizona. For this planting, start seeds indoors from December – January.

Once planted, if necessary, protect plants from cold nighttime temperatures. Plant tomatoes in the morning, so tomatoes have the day to settle in before cooler nighttime temperatures.

There is a second (monsoon) planting window for planting tomatoes in Arizona’s low desert from July through September. For this planting, start seeds indoors from May – July.

Once planted, protect plants from high daytime temperatures with a shade cloth. Plant tomatoes in the evening so tomatoes have a cooler evening to settle in before hot daytime temperatures.

Tomatoes grow best in temperatures of 70℉ to 90℉, with nighttime temperatures consistently above 55℉. In Arizona, you want tomatoes to flower and set fruit before it gets too hot. Once temperatures reach 90℉, tomato pollen is not viable. Fruit that has set will continue to mature, but new fruit will not set if pollen is not viable.

Tip #3 for Growing Tomatoes: Plant tomatoes in the right location
- The most important requirement for productive tomatoes is plenty of sunshine.
- Give tomatoes full sun for the entire plant with adequate growing space around each plant for air circulation.
- Allow 2 feet between each plant for healthy and productive plants.
- Do not plant tomatoes in the same location year after year. Rotate the location to prevent the build-up of disease in the soil.
Tip #4 for How to Grow Tomatoes: Prepare soil correctly

Tomatoes need soil rich in organic matter; make a habit of amending your soil with compost. Good drainage is important as an area with standing or puddling water invites disease. Prepare your soil correctly, and your plants will thank you. If you are growing tomatoes in raised beds, this article talks about the best soil for raised beds.

Tip #5 for Growing Tomatoes: Plant tomato seedlings deeply

Planting deeply encourages a more extensive root system and a healthier plant.
- Remove the bottom 2/3 of the leaves on the tomato transplant.
- Dig a shallow trench or deep hole (depending on the depth of the planting bed) and plant transplant so that only the top leaves are above the ground.
- Roots will grow along the entire stem of the plant.
- Bear in mind that plants may appear to do nothing for a bit after planting the tomato- but they are growing roots.
Tip #6 for How to Grow Tomatoes: Mulch tomato plants well

Use compost, straw, leaves, or pine needles to reduce evaporation and insulate the soil from extreme hot and cold temperatures; soil will stay at a more even temperature.

Mulching helps control weeds, and plants will not have to compete with weeds for water and nutrients. Most mulch ultimately becomes fertilizer as it decomposes into the soil around the plant. Learn more about how to mulch in this post.

Tip #7 for Growing Tomatoes: Water tomato plants correctly
- Water early in the day to prevent excessive evaporation.
- It’s best to water at the soil level, so leaves do not get wet. Wet leaves encourage disease.
- Water to a depth of at least 12 inches to encourage roots to grow deep in the soil to find nutrients and moisture.
- Water slowly and deeply.
- Deep, extensive roots help plants withstand dry spells.
- Water regularly as needed, but do not allow plants to become soggy as plant roots need oxygen. How often you water depends on your soil and the weather conditions. Water deeply each time you water and then let the top few inches dry out before watering again. During the hottest months of the summer, that might mean every day. During the winter, that often means every 7-10 days.
Tip #8 for How to Grow Tomatoes: Feed tomato plants

When planting, if your soil is low in phosphorus it’s important to provide a source of phosphorus (bone meal or rock phosphorus) and again as plants begin to bloom and produce fruit. A soil test can determine if your soil is low is phosphorus. Without proper fertilization, plants do not produce well and are prone to weeds (which invite pests and other diseases).

Once tomatoes set fruit feed them about once a month. Tomatoes do best with regular feeding from organic sources of fertilizer. I feed mine with a diluted fish emulsion/seaweed fertilizer.

Tip #9 for Growing Tomatoes: Provide support for growing tomato plants

It’s important to encourage tomatoes to grow vertically.
- Growing tomatoes vertically keeps the plant upright, and prevents the stems from breaking from heavy fruit or wind.
- Trellising tomatoes also keeps the leaves off the ground which helps reduce diseases.
- Fruit is easier to harvest when it is off the ground as well.
Tip #10 for Growing Tomatoes: Provide shade for tomato plants in extreme climates like Arizona

Provide shade for tomatoes in extreme heat

Your plants may need a little help to get through a long, hot summer in the low desert of Arizona.
- Shade can reduce the air temperature for tomatoes by several degrees, and it also extends the growing season.
- Providing shade in desert climates helps reduce stress on tomato plants, and can prevent sunscald on ripening tomatoes.
- Shaded tomato plants are more likely to survive the extreme heat of the desert, and may perform better when cooler temperatures return in the fall.
Sunscald on tomatoes

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Angela Judd

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January 1, 2024
How to Grow Patty Pan Squash

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Learn how to grow patty pan squash, from Sunburst to Gelber Englisher Custard varieties. It’s easy to care for and delicious! Patty pan squash was a surprise family favorite. Its round, saucer-like shape and delicate flavor make it perfect for grilling, roasting, or stuffing. The compact size and quick growth make this summer squash an easy addition to your planting list.

Try different varieties of patty pan squash

There are many varieties of patty pan squash to choose from. Popular types include:

Sunburst: Yellow with scalloped edges; tender and nutty tasting. (55 days to harvest)

Peter Pan: Green with scalloped edges; All-America Selections winner. (50 days to harvest)

Gelber Englisher Custard: Lemon-yellow fruit with excellent flavor. (60 days to harvest)

Looking for more summer squash varieties? This post lists more of my favorites.

When to plant patty pan squash

If you live in the low desert of Arizona, plant patty pan squash after the last frost (usually mid-February) through March and again from mid-August through September.

If you live in other areas, make sure the soil is at least 60°F (15.5°C) before planting and all danger of frost is passed.

How to plant

Amend soil with compost before planting. Large pattypan seeds are easy to direct sow in the garden. Plant seeds 1 inch (2.5cm) deep in well-draining soil, with 18-24 inches (45-60cm) spacing between seeds.

Patty pan squash also grows well in containers on a patio or balcony. Choose a container at least 18 inches (45 cm) wide and deep, and use well-draining soil.

Plant seeds in a sunny spot with at least 6 hours of direct sunlight. Morning sun with afternoon shade is ideal. Provide shade once daytime temperatures are above 90°F (32°C).

Caring for patty pan squash

Patty pan squash plants need consistent watering for proper growth and fruit production. Water deeply and mulch well.

The most common pest or disease problems with patty pan squash include squash bugs and powdery mildew. Monitor plants and check the undersides of leaves daily for squash bugs and their eggs. If powdery mildew is present, remove infected leaves.

Learn more about how to grow summer squash in this blog post.

Harvesting and using patty pan squash:

The best time to harvest patty pan squash is when they are small, tender, and firm, about 2-4 inches (5-10cm) in diameter. Store harvested fruits in the refrigerator for up to a week.

When harvested young, there is no need to peel. If allowed to grow, the skin gets tough, and the seeds are large.

Grill or roast small patty pan squash and use it like other summer squash varieties. Larger fruits are better for stuffing. Scoop out the seeds before filling.

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Angela Judd

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January 1, 2024
10 Essential Daily Garden Tasks
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Are you having trouble keeping your garden healthy and productive? Use this list of ten essential daily gardening tasks to take your garden from struggling to thriving.

Jump to the free daily garden routine printable here.

It’s easy to focus on the big tasks that need to be done in the garden. However, it is often the small simple things we do on a daily basis that will have the biggest impact on the health of our garden.

Garden Care Schedule for your Daily Gardening Routine:

1. Check the watering

Struggling = Overwatered plants have saturated soil and grow slowly. Underwatered plants are wilted with yellowing dried leaves.

Thriving = Plants that are watered correctly are healthy and grow well. They are less stressed and less prone to pests & disease.

Don’t assume your garden needs watering; first, check the soil. Put a finger in the soil; if it comes up with soil on it, wait before watering. If your finger is dry, it’s time to water.

Three key tips for watering:
- Newly planted seeds or seedlings will need watering more often until they get established.
- Watering in the morning helps hydrate plants for the day.
- Try to be in the garden when the water is running. You’ll spot leaks and broken timers and emitters that way, too.
2. Thin seedlings

Struggling = Too many seedlings too close together crowd each other out and compete for sunlight and nutrients. None of them grow well.

Thriving = Each seedling has enough room. Seedlings grow quickly and get established.

After planting seeds, thin them early and often. Young seedlings will grow and thrive when given enough room. Check mature spacing guidelines and square foot spacing in this blog post.

3. Keep up with pruning and deadheading

Struggling = Tasks build up, and they become overwhelming. You don’t know where to begin. There is too much to do! Suckers grow large and take energy away from growing plants.

Keep flowers deadheaded

Thriving = Daily pruning and cleaning up keeps tasks manageable. Plants are healthy and productive.

Prune off suckers from tomato plants

I always have my favorite pruners when I head out to the garden each morning. If you see something that needs to be pruned or cleaned up, do it right away. Plants are healthier and happier when kept in check and cleaned up. Essential garden tasks include:
1. Prune off dead, dying leaves.
2. Prune suckers out of plants.
3. Deadhead flowers.
4. Cut back flowers to encourage branching.
5. Keep herbs pruned back.
6. Keep your garden clean & pick up debris.
Prune off dead or diseased leaves

4. Look for bugs: good and bad

Struggling = You’re afraid to check the garden because of the pests. Squash bugs are multi-generational and out of control. You have to pull plants to prevent infestations from spreading.

If you see holes in your leaves, look for a pest on the backside of the leaf

Thriving = Daily checks on the undersides of leaves for problem pests keep numbers in check. Soapy water nearby makes it easy to dispose of problem pests. You see signs of beneficial insects and understand how they can help.

Use apps to help you identify pests

Make it a point to observe nature during your daily gardening routine. This doesn’t mean reaching for a spray bottle, every time you see a bug. However, it’s important to be aware of what is happening in your garden. Apps like “Seek” help identify which bugs are in your garden. Read this post to learn more about organic pest control options.
1. Look for holes, check the undersides of leaves, check around plants, and check new seedlings.
2. Pay attention to the patterns of pests/beneficial insects throughout the year.
5. Learn to spot the first signs of disease in your garden

Struggling = Plants are overtaken with disease and have to be pulled. Garden diseases build up in your soil and come back each season.

Powdery mildew on leaves

Thriving = You remove diseased leaves as soon as you see them and then monitor that plant closely. You clean your tools each time you use them to prevent the spread of diseases.

Clean tools and wash hands after pruning diseased plants

Removing affected leaves is often a good first step in treating garden diseases. Daily observation will help you know what further treatment steps are needed if the problem progresses.

Catching problems when small helps keep them under control and prevents spreading to the rest of your garden. Clean tools meticulously and dispose of any leaves in the garbage, not compost.

10 Essential Garden Tasks to Take Your Garden from Struggling to Thriving (continued)

6. Help your plants find the trellises

Struggling = Plants are overgrown with unruly branches that break when you train them to the trellis.

Thriving = You give young plants and branches a nudge or clip them in place as they grow, and they happily climb trellises.

Vertical gardening keeps plants healthier and more productive, but if the plant doesn’t find the trellis, it can’t climb. Other plants must be clipped to or woven up the trellis. Larger branches are less pliable and may break, but young growth is easy to train.

7. Look at the blossoms. Do you need to hand-pollinate anything?

Struggling = Female blossoms wither and die because they aren’t pollinated. Fruits do not mature before the season ends.

Thriving = You are in the garden when blossoms open and hand-pollinate as needed to ensure fruits form on squash, cantaloupe, and other plants.

The best time to do your daily gardening routine is in the morning – many blossoms are only open first thing in the morning. Learn the difference between male and female blossoms and hand-pollinate as needed.

A bonus tip: Plant flowers and allow herbs to flower to attract pollinators so you won’t have to hand-pollinate as often.

9. Check on vermicomposting and composting bins

Struggling = Plants aren’t growing well.

Thriving = You add food scraps and yard waste to composting bins and amend your beds regularly.

The best fertilizer for plants is fresh worm castings and compost from your vermicomposting and compost bins. Daily attention to this essential gardening task will keep them producing worm castings and compost to add to your garden.

Vermicomposting bins: Collect kitchen scraps. Check on 1-2 bins daily to monitor worms’ health. Add scraps or harvest finished worm castings as needed—Spread and water in castings. Take note of where you need to add more food scraps. Learn more about in-bed vermicomposting in this blog post.

Compost bins: As part of your garden care schedule, add disease-free yard waste to bins regularly. Monitor the temperature of compost bins and turn or water piles as needed. Learn more about how to compost in this blog post.

9. Keep up with the harvesting

Struggling = Fruit is left on the vine and gets rotten, attracting pests. Vegetables become tough or overgrown, and production slows down.

Thriving = You harvest as needed daily and incorporate that food into your daily diet and menus.

When you go out to the garden, bring a basket with you, and when something is ready to be picked, pick it! Pick young and pick often to encourage production. Monitor crops that usually get damaged by birds or pests and harvest early or put barrier methods in place before they ripen.

10. Enjoy being in the garden

Struggling = Being in the garden stresses you out because there is so much work!

Thriving = You look around and feel content about what you accomplished. You realize that daily, consistent efforts are better for your garden and easier for you!

Create a spot to rest, relax, and observe the beauty and wildlife as part of your daily garden routine. There may always be work that can be done. However, if you spend a little time each day, those tasks won’t overwhelm you. Instead of dreading it, you will look forward to time in the garden.

Remember to comment with one of your daily gardening routine tips for a successful garden!

Free Printable List of 10 Essential Daily Garden Tasks

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Angela Judd

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December 26, 2023
Arizona Garden in January
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What grows in low desert Arizona gardens in January? I’ll show you. All of these pictures come from my garden in Mesa, Arizona.

Low desert includes elevations below 3500 ft in the Southwest, such as the Phoenix and Tucson metro areas.

We garden in many parts of Arizona year-round, but we can’t grow everything all year. Take a look at what’s growing this month, and let me know what’s growing in your garden in the comments.

Disclaimer: This post may contain affiliate links. See my disclosure policy for more information.

“Anyone who thinks gardening begins in the spring and ends in the fall is missing the best part of the whole year. For gardening begins in January with the dream.”

– Josephine Nuese

Low Desert Arizona Garden in January

January is often the coldest time in the low desert Arizona garden. Although colder, it doesn’t mean you should stay inside this month. There are important garden tasks that need to be done this month, such as pruning roses and fruit trees (see a list of garden tasks for January below). Harvests from fall plantings continue throughout the month as you plan for your spring and summer garden.

Keep reading for garden inspiration, a January garden checklist, and a list of vegetables, herbs, and flowers to plant in your Arizona garden in January.

Vegetables growing in the low desert Arizona garden in January

Kale is a superstar in the Arizona garden in January. Keep harvesting for a continuous supply. Frosty nights will sweeten the taste of kale. Grow several varieties of kale in your garden.

Broccoli harvests begin in earnest this month. Hopefully, you succession planted to have a continuous harvest all month. Plant transplants through the end of January.

Carrots planted in September and October are ready to harvest. Plant carrots through the end of March. Be sure to thin carrots for large, delicious carrots.

If you aren’t growing asparagus, consider dedicating a 4-foot by 4-foot raised bed. January is a great time to plant asparagus.

If you are growing asparagus, January is the time to cut back the dormant fronds and amend the bed with a 5-inch layer of compost.

Tips for growing flowers in the low desert Arizona garden in January

Cool-season annual flowers and wildflowers planted from September through December are beginning to bloom this month and should continue blooming through March. Thin seedlings if they emerge in clumps. Water cool-season annuals 4 to 6 inches deep about once a week.

Want better blooms on your seed-grown annuals? Thin them to where each plant’s leaves are touching one another when the plant is 3-4 inches tall.

Read this article to learn how to grow alyssum.

Most annuals will do well in our cooler winter and spring seasons when chosen carefully. As temperatures heat up, these cool season annuals will die. Keep a garden journal of what worked in the past and what didn’t.

Flowers to Plant Outside & Seeds to Start Indoors Each Month in the Low Desert of Arizona.
• PLANTING GUIDE: Each month lists annual flowers and bulbs to plant outside & seeds to start indoors.
• BLOOMING GUIDE: Photos show what may be in bloom that month.

Fruit trees in the low desert Arizona garden in January
- Plant bare-root fruit trees this month. Look for trees that have low chill hours (less than 400), mature early, and self-pollinate.
- Deciduous fruit trees should be pruned before bud break this month.
Blood oranges and grapefruit citrus are ripening this month. Best way to test for sweetness? Pick one and try it! Water established citrus once every 3-4 weeks in January.

Trying to decide which variety to plant next month? This article will help you decide.

Herbs in the low desert Arizona garden in January

Garlic chives are a reliable perennial herb in Arizona. Consider finding a spot to tuck them in and around your garden this month. If you have garlic chives in your garden, January is a good time to cut back and divide the overgrown clumps.

Read this article for more information about how to grow garlic chives.

How to Start Seeds Indoors: 10 Steps for Success

Low desert Arizona garden in January to-do list:
- If you didn’t start seeds indoors for tomatoes, eggplant, melons and peppers in December, get them started this month. The seedlings will be ready to be planted by February or March.
- Continue planning for February and March plantings. This is seed catalog season; get ideas you would like to try and order seeds. My favorite seed companies with great catalogs are Baker Creek Seeds, Botanical Interests, and Seed Saver Exchange. Look at your garden and plan where you will plant everything. Research different varieties to see which do well in Arizona. A good rule of thumb is to look for short-season crops. Be sure to rotate where you plant each year.
- Are you going to grow sweet potatoes this year? Start your own sweet potato slips so they will be ready to plant in March. This article explains how to start sweet potato slips.
- Buy organic turmeric and ginger for planting out in March. Learn how to pre-sprout ginger and turmeric in this blog post.
- Plant spring flowering annuals this month. (See list below)
- Plant pre-chilled (at least 6 weeks in fridge) tulip and hyacinth bulbs this month.
- Plant cold-tolerant trees, bushes, and perennials and protect new plants from freezing temperatures.
- January in Arizona is a good time to plant deciduous fruit trees. Look for varieties that require less than 400 chill hours, have early maturing fruit, and are self-pollinating.
- Bare-root roses are in-stock at local nurseries – it’s a great time to plant roses.
- This is the last month to plant strawberries. Space strawberries 12 inches apart. Plant strawberries with crown of plant above soil line. Mulch and water strawberries well.
- January in the low desert of Arizona is a good month to propagate succulents so they establish roots before summer heat.
- Wait until mid-to-late February to plant frost-sensitive plants such as lantana and hibiscus.
- Begin planting blackberries at the end of the month.
Watering:
- If we get heavy rain, trees and shrubs may not need supplemental watering. If not, water shrubs and trees no more than once every 14-28 days. Wateruseitwisely.com is a helpful resource for landscape watering guidelines.
- Do not over-water annual plants this month. Water to a depth of about 6 inches, and allow the top of the soil to dry out before watering again.
- Check containers with a moisture meter or make sure the top inch or so of soil has dried out before watering.
- Water established citrus trees once every 3-4 weeks.
- Water established fruit trees once every 10-14 days.
Pruning:
- Frost-tender plants such as hibiscus and lantana should not be pruned this month.
- Prune established roses this month. Clean up all fallen leaves and debris around roses to discourage disease and insects.
- Prune dead branches out of cold-hardy trees and shrubs.
- If deciduous fruit trees have been slow to drop leaves, remove any remaining leaves to encourage dormancy.
- Deciduous fruit trees should be pruned before bud break this month. Prune dead, diseased, broken and crossing branches and water sprouts (branches shooting straight up from limbs of trees). Consider treating fruit trees with horticultural oil before bud break as well.
- Do not prune citrus trees in January.
Fertilizing:
- Fertilize deciduous fruit trees at the end of this month. Water well before and after fertilizing.
- Fertilize established fig trees in January. Aged manure is a wonderful way to feed figs.
Protect from freezing temperatures (below 32° F):
- Have burlap or frost cloth on hand to protect newly planted citrus, small lemon and lime trees, and other frost-sensitive plants from frost.
- Plants in containers are more susceptible to freezing temperatures than ground ones.
- If freezing temperatures are expected, water citrus trees deeply to help protect them from frost.
Yard clean-up:
- Clean-up around fruit trees. Decayed fruit is inviting for pests.
- Consider leaving the leaves in place. If you do rake up the leaves, then save them. Bag leaves and let them decompose; then spread them on plants as leaf mulch in spring. If you compost, they are a great addition to the compost pile.
What to plant in the Arizona garden in January:

Vegetables, Herbs & Fruit to plant in the low desert in January

(Click the link to read “How to Grow” articles on my website.)

SEED, TRANSPLANT, OR BOTH? S = Seed T= Transplant
PLANTING GUIDE: Each month lists vegetables, fruit & herbs to plant outside & seeds to start indoors.

HARVEST GUIDE: Photos show what may be ready to harvest that month.

Planting dates are for the low desert of Arizona (zone 9b).
Vegetable, herb, and fruit seeds to start indoors during January

(Click the link for seed sources.)

Flowers to plant in the low desert in January

(Click the link to read “How to Grow” articles on my website.)
Alyssum (ST)

Carnation (T)

Chamomile (T)

Dianthus (T)

English Daisy (T)

Feverfew (T)

Gaillardia (ST)

Geranium (T)

Gladiolus (corm)

Hyacinth (bulb)

Hybrid Tulip (bulb)

Larkspur (S)

Lisianthus (T)
Flower seeds to start indoors in the low desert in January

(Click the link for seed sources.)

Vegetable, Herb, and Fruit Planting Guide for the Low Desert of Arizona

The ultimate resource for gardeners in arid regions with hot summers and mild winters—designed specifically for the low desert of Arizona (Zone 9b/10a).
It features information on how and when to start seeds indoors and when to transplant them outside for nearly 100 different fruits, vegetables, and herbs.

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Angela Judd

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December 12, 2023
How to Start a Garden on a Budget

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Starting a garden on a budget does not have to be daunting. Here are 12 simple ways that can help you start your garden without breaking the bank:

1. Start Small:

To minimize costs and workload, begin with a small sunken bed or container garden. It’s easier to expand later as your confidence grows. A sunken bed has minimal start-up cost and can be a very effective way to garden. To learn more, read this post about sunken-bed gardening.

2. Reuse and Recycle:

Use items you already have around the house when starting your garden. Old containers, cement blocks, and bathtubs can be used as planters to save money. Think outside the garden box and use the ideas in this blog post about creative container gardening.

3. Swap Seeds and Plants:

Swap seeds or cuttings with friends, neighbors, or online communities. This way, you can get a variety of plants for free. Seed packages often contain more seeds than you will use. Split packages with friends. Learn how to save seeds so you always have some to share. Local libraries often have seed libraries where you can check out seeds for free!

Starting a garden on a budget? Take advantage of local seed libraries!

4. Make Your Own Compost:

Composting kitchen scraps and yard waste will save money on soil amendments and fertilizers. This can be daunting at first, but begin composting kitchen scraps with in-bed vermicomposting. If you have a large amount of yard waste, learn how to compost in this blog post.

5. Choose Perennials When Starting Your Garden on a Budget:

Perennials come back year after year, saving you money in the long run. Some of my favorite perennials are asparagus, artichokes, and strawberries. Learn more about growing perennials in this blog post.

6. Grow from Seeds to Save Money Gardening:

Growing plants from seeds is cheaper than buying seedlings or mature plants. Don’t be intimidated by starting plants from seed. If they have good soil and you start them at the right time, seeds will grow!

7. Use Mulch:

Mulch reduces the need for watering and weeding, which can save both time and money. Places like Chipdrop provide gardeners with free woodchips. Learn more about how to use mulch.

8. DIY Vertical Garden Structures:

Building your own trellises, cages, and supports instead of buying them is a simple way to start a garden on a budget. Look around your house or garage and repurpose a ladder or other items. If you want to learn more, read this post about creative vertical gardening ideas.

9. Water Wisely:

Depending on where you live, water can be an expensive part of gardening. Water in the early morning or late evening to reduce evaporation and save on your water bill. Learn other watering principles in this blog post.

10. Choose High-Yield Crops When Budget Gardening :

Starting a garden on a budget doesn’t mean you can’t grow delicious food. Grow vegetables that produce a lot of food, like tomatoes, zucchini, and beans. You’ll get large harvests with less expense.

11. Use Natural Pest Control:

Use natural methods like companion planting to control pests instead of expensive chemicals. This saves you money and is better for your garden as well. Learn more about successful companion planting principles in this blog post.

12. Learn and Experiment When Starting a Garden on a Budget:

The more you learn about gardening, the more you can save. Don’t be afraid to experiment and learn from your mistakes.

Remember, the key to starting a garden on a budget is creativity and resourcefulness. Happy gardening!

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Angela Judd

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December 12, 2023