The notoriety of Papaver somniferum, the “sleep-inducing poppy,” is only partly to do with its outlaw family.
Opium poppies are grown for their edible seeds and for pharmaceutical uses. The type that you see in gardens—whether your own or in the medicinal section of a botanic garden—is the legal relation, not toxic enough to be useful to anyone. The subversive beauty of P. somniferum is firmly rooted in its fabulous color and texture, and the way it can turn a vegetable patch into a Dutch painting.
Above: Self-seeded opium poppy that has not been weeded out of a fennel, in my garden.
More correctly but prosaically called “breadseed poppy,” Papaver somniferum is an unknown quantity when in bud. A couple of nearby seeds may result in shades of profound magenta and desirable pink, like the wild opium poppies in our vegetable garden, at the top of this page. On the other hand, they could germinate into the tawdriest hues of clapped-out mauve, in which case you are perfectly within your rights to pull them out.
Above: Double varieties of black opium poppy include Papaver somniferum ‘Black Beauty’ and ‘Black Peony’.
This is the great thing about self-seeding plants: If you edit them, they look purposeful. If you don’t, then they are weeds, run amok. Opium poppies grow well with other poppies, seen here, above, at the Oxford Botanic Garden, in the medicinal plant beds. But it’s more fun to allow them to pop up wherever they like. In soil that is rich, like a vegetable garden, they will grow stout and tall, with handsome glaucous foliage and green-gray seed heads on strong stalks.
Above: Single deep black opium poppies at Oxford Botanic Garden.
All week, we’re revisiting the most popular stories of 2025, including this one from March.
The humble hummingbird has always been a pollinator favorite among gardeners, but lately it’s been attracting more (and new) buzz. Katie Tamony, chief marketing officer and trend spotter at Monrovia, tells us she’s been seeing increased interest in drawing hummingbirds to the garden. “I’ve heard it called the next glamour animal—the one they most want to take a photo of, the one that stops them in their tracks when they encounter it in the garden,” she shares.
Most devoted hummingbird lovers know that these tiny winged creatures especially love bright, tubular or vase-shaped flowers. “The specific shape of these blooms can accommodate the long bills of the hummingbirds, making it easier for them to gather nectar,” says Katie. Another tip: Plant these plants en masse to create a concentrated nectar source: “Their incredibly high metabolism calls for lots of nectar, and they can get it more easily by visiting a mass of flowering plants in one area.” You may also want to consider staggering blooms times for a longer feeding season.
“But nectar isn’t the only thing that keeps hummingbirds happy,” says Katie. “They’re also always feasting on small insects, a lesser known but essential part of the hummingbird diet. Encouraging insects by not spraying pesticides in the garden and growing a diverse selection of plants is important.”
Ultimately, of course, there’s no surefire way to lure hummingbirds to your yard. To up your chance of a sighting, Katie suggests mixing appropriate cultivars, like those listed below, with natives in the garden “to create an insect-rich environment that offers more and longer blooms than natives alone.” Add a hummingbird feeder if you want, but it’s not a must: “We used to have one that seemed like the squirrels were also feasting on, so we got rid of it. And we still see a lot of hummingbirds visit our yard.”
Below, Katie’s picks for cultivars beloved by hummingbirds.
‘Stoplights’ is a no-brainer when it comes to hot, arid climates. Once established, this low-maintenance plant thrives with little water. Slender green leaves send out tall spikes adorned with crimson-red flowers—the color that hummingbirds are famously attracted to. Recommended for USDA Zones 5-11.
Some of the last flowers to bloom as the growing season draws to a close are Halloween-ready: the headily scented trumpets of Datura are as ethereal as they are toxic. Until a neighbor began growing them in his city tree bed every summer, I paid the plants little mind. Sidewalks are very rough on any living thing, and the flourishing forms of these resilient annual shrubs won me over. Despite complete neglect—receiving no supplemental water, no food, and a lot of unwanted liquid attention from passing dogs—buds keep forming, blooms keep opening every night, and passersby keep being enchanted by the combination of perfume and near-artificial flower perfection, and, later, by the prickly seed capsules. The fact that Datura is strongly associated with toxic, hallucinogenic, and medicinal effects adds to its intrigue.
Here’s more about alluring Datura, also known as devil’s trumpet.
Above: After a slow start, the plants begin to bloom daily after midsummer.
The flowers of Datura are vespertine, unfurling at night, and lasting until the middle of the following day. The strongly scented flowers attract sphinx moths, which are their primary pollinators.
Above: Datura flowers always point upwards.
Various Datura species share a long list of common names that include devil’s trumpet, moonflower, thorn-apple, and jimsonweed. The name angel’s trumpet refers to species of Brugmansia, whose flowers are pendant rather than upright, growing on woodier, taller shrubs.
Above: The flower buds can be as long as eight inches. Above: Their night-scent develops through the evening.
Despite the flowers’ sweet scent, the crushed leaves have an unpleasant odor. While not absolutely deer-proof, Datura is not top of the list for the browsing herbivores. Cases of poisoning usually affect humans, not animals, since the animals may know better.
Toxic alkaloids are found in all parts of Datura but are concentrated in the seeds. The level of toxicity can vary very widely depending on the specific plant, which is why humans looking to experience a botanical high may instead became extremely ill, or (rarely) slightly dead.
Before anyone panics, bear in mind that we feel comfortable around highly toxic plants like yew, foxglove, hellebore and oleander; we barely consider their complex properties.
Blue cardinal flower, also known as great blue lobelia, is a tall native perennial that blooms for long weeks at the end of summer. Like its striking cousin, the red cardinal flower, this lobelia relishes plenty of water and is happy growing in full-sun rain gardens, bogs, and damp meadows. But it will also grow successfully without supplemental water in semi-shaded flower borders if its roots remain cool and mulched. Blue cardinal flower brings vertical interest to the garden and is a vividly blue counterpoint to the colors of late summer and early autumn.
Above: The spires of blue cardinal flower can grow up to four feet tall. Above: An illustration of blue cardinal flower from William Barton’s Vegetable Materia Medica of the United States (circa 1825).
Lobelia siphilitica’s species name is derived from one of its many Native American uses as a treatment for syphilis (in conjunction with other toxic-slash-medicinal ingredients like cherry and May apple—don’t try this at home).
Above: Blue cardinal flower with a late summer tangle of obedient plant, ageratum, and rudbeckia. Above: In the middle of a border, the tall spikes of blue cardinal flower hold their own with grasses and asters. Above: Blue cardinal flowers support a wide range of native bees and butterflies.
Cheat Sheet
Blue cardinal flower is native to eastern North America.
It is a member of the bell flower (Campanulaceae) family.
The species name of siphilitica is derived from an historical use of the plant in the treatment of venereal diseases.
Bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds feed on the flowers’ nectar.
Lobelias produce a toxic compound called lobeline, which makes them less palatable to deer.
Above: Blue cardinal flower appreciates afternoon shade where summers are hot.
Keep It Alive
Blue cardinal flower is hardy from USDA growing zones 4 to 9.
Plant its seeds or seedlings in rich soil with plenty of organic matter.
It thrives in damp soil and wet edges of ponds, rain gardens, or streams.
Plant in full sun only in cooler climates.
Where summers are hotter, plant blue cardinal flowers where it will grow in afternoon shade.
Oftentimes landscape designers are called in to execute a one-time overhaul or to create an instant landscape for a site that’s been ravaged by construction. Every once in a while, though, they’re enlisted for more nuanced work, such as when a mature garden needs a new steward and editor. The “before and after” results may not be as dramatic, but the process of refinement can take a garden from good to great. Such was the case when landscape designer and ISA-certified arborist Ashley Lloyd, of Lloyd Landwright, was brought in to usher a garden in lower Westchester into its next chapter.
The garden had been lovingly designed and tended by a fine gardener for many years, but after his departure, weeds had overtaken the property and much of the perennial layer had been lost during construction projects, including a new retaining wall. “The goal was to create layered texture, seasonal contrast, and movement—and to design with the garden’s future evolution in mind,” Lloyd says.
Arriving as the homeowners were in the midst of rethinking the garden, ended up being a gift. “I had time to observe the land—its microclimates, light shifts, drainage patterns—and respond accordingly,” Lloyd says. Building on the existing palette of shrubs and evergreens, she brought in more native and pollinator plants and created moments that would consistently surprise and delight the clients. She also designed dozens of seasonal planters and new outdoor lighting.
Through her years of working on this garden, Lloyd learned that “the best design happens in relationship and collaboration with the land and not from a fixed plan,” she says. Lloyd recently relocated to the West Coast, handing this garden off to its next steward in much better shape than she found it.
Take a tour of the resulting garden, a layered landscape that evolves through the seasons.
Above: “This wasn’t a ‘look but don’t touch’ garden,” says Lloyd. Rather, it was designed to invite interaction, with the client choosing to leave the front garden unfenced, so neighbors could enjoy it too. However, no fencing meant intense deer pressure, so Lloyd focussed her plant palette on those that were unpalatable to deer, including floss flower and allium. “Grasses, including sesleria, really knit everything together there,” she says. Above: Lloyd says she tries to place plants that deer don’t like around plants they prefer; for example, lamb’s ear and allium are positioned to protect asters. As part of a local Pollinator Pathway, the garden is pesticide-free and designed to support bees, birds, and butterflies.
Butterflies aren’t just beautiful, they are also helpful pollinators that will help our gardens thrive. Attract them to your yard with this butterfly feeder project. It’s an easy DIY project that will help keep your garden flourishing all year long.
Butterflies are magical creatures that grace us with their beauty. Their bright colours are a welcome addition to any garden. As with bees, they are essential pollinators. In fact, a butterfly’s lifecycle requires them to have host plants and food plants for pollination. Butterflies will keep your garden thriving and add a pretty pop of colour to your space too.
How do you attract them to your yard? There are many plants that they love, but an easy way to attract butterflies to your garden is to make a butterfly feeder.
If you’re looking for an extra way to support the butterflies in your garden, then follow these steps to make a butterfly feeder.
Butterflies love bright, warm colours.
How to Make a Butterfly Feeder
This simple DIY will keep butterflies coming to your yard month after month. Plus, the butterfly feeder is a pretty addition to your yard too. Here’s how to make one, step by step.
Butterfly Feeder Supplies
Plate – Any type of plate will do. The plate I used is shaped like a hibiscus flower. There are notches where the “petals” connect, making it easier to fit in the macrame-style holder. If you plan to use a round plate, you will also need to get a wall mount plate holder.
Mason line or twine – I used mason line to hang my feeder. I used it because it’s made from a synthetic material that will not deteriorate as fast as natural twine. The feeder will hang outside in an area with little shelter and I wanted to make sure the rope holds through the whole season.
Washer (or another metal ring)
Beads – The beads are optional. I like the way they dress up the feeder. Butterflies delight us with their beauty, so I decided to make this feeder extra pretty for them.
Get an inexpensive plate from the thrift or dollar store.
Make it!
First, cut 5 lengths of mason line about 3 feet long. I used 5 pieces of string because I have 5 petal notches on my plate. If you are using a round plate with a wall hanger, you should only need 4 lengths of string. Loop the pieces of string through the metal ring and tie a double knot. Do not worry about the ends at the moment.
If you are using beads, add them about 12 inches from the top. Make sure the beads all line up evenly. Then, tie a knot underneath each bead.
The beads are optional, used as decoration only.
Tie all the strings together about 6 inches down from the beads. Cut the excess mason line a half inch from the knot. Use a lighter or flame from a candle to lightly melt the edges of the strings. I melted mine all the way back to the base of the knot. Do this to the knot that’s securing the metal ring, too. This will keep frays at bay and help keep the knot from slipping.
Melt the ends of your string with a lighter.
Set the plate in the holder and hang it up in a sunny place in your garden. Then, add some butterfly food and watch them eat.
I added lemons, melon, and flowers to my butterfly feeder.
What Do Butterflies Eat?
Butterflies feed on nectar (sugar from a plant). So, fresh fruits work very well as butterfly food. You can also make nectar from honey and water, but I think it’s less messy to add some fruit to the plate.
Butterflies are attracted to red, yellow, orange, pink, and purple colours, so keep that in mind when selecting fruit. If you are worried about ants getting in on the feast, you can add a bit of water to the dish as a deterrent.
Orange slices work great as butterfly food.
Tips for Attracting Butterflies
A butterfly feeder is only one way to attract butterflies to your garden. If you want to keep them really happy, you will need to have plants that serve the needs of all the life stages of the butterfly. Adults need nectar, a safe place to lay their eggs, food for their larvae and a place to form chrysalides (cocoons).
In addition to the right plants, butterflies like full sun, a place to rest their wings, and a place to drink. An easy way to create a butterfly sanctuary is to plant bright flowers that love full sun, add a flat rock to the garden for the butterflies to bask, and put a small, shallow pan of water out for them to drink. You can read more about how to make a butterfly garden here.
Include plants in your garden to sustain butterflies during each life stage.
Butterfly-Friendly Plants
You really cannot go wrong with any type of brightly coloured flower for butterflies. However, remember that the plants must support the larvae and cocoons as well. There are many butterfly-friendly plants, so the chances are you can find a few that will suit your growing zone. Here’s a list of some plants that will attract butterflies to your garden:
Butterflies aren’t attracted to blue, so include lighter shades of purple instead.
Find out more about why some butterflies love milkweed and how to grow it in your garden here. In addition to having a pretty flower garden, you can attract these lovely pollinators at the same time, a perfect garden partnership.
Now, don’t forget about the bees! Here is how to attract them to your garden (and a bee bath project that the butterflies will love).
Butterflies and bees aren’t the only beneficial insects you want in your garden! Find out about the 7 best bugs for the garden.
More Ways to Support Pollinators
How to Make a Butterfly Feeder
Keep these pretty pollinators active in your garden with this simple DIY butterfly feeder.
Cut 4 pieces of mason line into 3 foot sections.
Loop the pieces through the metal ring and tie with a double knot.
Add beads to the line about 12″ from the top, lined up evenly. Tie a knot under each bead to keep in place.
Tie all the strings together about 6″ underneath the beads, then cut the excess line about 1/2″ away from the knot.
Do the same to the knot that’s holding the metal ring too to prevent fraying.
Add your plate and hang it in a sunny place in the garden, topped with butterfly food.
Debbie Wolfe is a mom of two rambunctious boys, wife, and work-at-home mom from Georgia. In her free time (when there is such a thing), she is in the garden or hidden away reading the latest post-apocalyptic sci-fi drama! As interests, Debbie is an obsessive crafter, home chef, and gardener. She is a freelance writer, blogger, and is a co-author and photographer behind the garden blog, The Prudent Garden; a collection of tips, crafts, and articles that highlight home gardening.
Rebecca McMackin is an “ecologically obsessed horticulturist and garden designer” (her description) and an incredibly engaging, deeply knowledgeable plant nerd (ours). (Just check out her Ted Talk entitled “Let Your Garden Grow Wild” from earlier this year.) As Arboretum Curator for Woodlawn Cemetery, she manages one of the best tree collections in New York State. And as a garden designer, she creates inspired landscapes that make both people and pollinators happy. In fact, her garden for the Brooklyn Museum, a collaboration with Quick Takes alum Brook Klausing, just won the Perennial Plant Association’s Award of Excellence, in part because of its use of native plants to create habitats for the birds and bees.
We’ve interviewed Rebecca before (see 9 Radical Ways to Face Climate Change), and today, we’re thrilled to be able to share her perspective again, Below, the biodiversity crusader talks about her love for spying on bugs (“so much drama”), her admiration for dead wood (“so hip, so helpful”), and her disdain for orange Rudbeckia (agreed!).
Above: Rebecca hails from Connecticut—and still lives there. “I feel like the state motto should be “Connecticut: we NEVER don’t have Aerosmith on the radio.” Photograph by Caitlin Atkinson.
Your first garden memory:
I had my first garden when I was 6. I grew up on a small farm in Connecticut, where we gardened as a way of life. I grew carrots and Celosia. I remember how sweet the carrots were. You just can’t buy carrots as good as you can grow them.
Garden-related book you return to time and again:
Carol Gracie was a mentor to me. I had read Spring Wildflowers of the Northeast, had my mind completely blown, and promptly began a respectful stalking mission that resulted in years of friendship. Carol was a marvelous observer and her books taught me to see flowers differently. They weren’t about plants in the traditional sense. They were written from the plant’s perspective. Carol explored what flowers were doing with their lives. She shared not only how they were shaped but why, who they were trying to attract, and how the plants communicated. I’ve read her books countless times and use them as references often. Truly the best ever.
Instagram account that inspires you:
I love Adrian Smith’s account: @dradriansmith. He does the simplest thing—taking slow-motion videos of insects taking off from a table—and it’s just glorious. There’s so much drama. The clumsiness of beetles, the leap of a moth, the absolute miracle that something like an oak treehopper can actually get airborne after spinning around three times. It’s hilariously entertaining, but also helps people understand that these animals live full lives, with struggles and victories.
Euonymus alatus. Why is it legal to sell this plant? How broken is horticulture that we can’t phase out plants causing actual harm. Get this guy out of the trade already.
Favorite go-to plant:
Aquilegia canadensis. Adorable. functional. Adaptable. and charismatic.
Hardest gardening lesson you’ve learned:
Above: Tiarella cordifolia and Viola sororia, both native plants, at the Brooklyn Bridge Park, where Rebecca spent a decade as Director of Horticulture. Photograph by Rebecca McMackin.
Less is more. I hate this one. I want all the plants in every garden. But they really speak to people much more when there are only a few flowers blooming at a time.
Butterflies are beautiful to watch flitting about the garden. Plus, they are essential pollinators for a large number of plants. Many butterfly populations are dwindling right now, but with a few minor tweaks in the garden, we can help save these pretty pollinators and enjoy their beauty and benefits in the garden at the same time. Read on to discover which plants butterflies need during their life cycle, and what to grow to create the ideal butterfly garden.
I think we can all agree that butterflies are one of the best things Mother Nature has come up with. With colours as bright and beautiful as the flowers we grow in the garden, they provide so much joy to every person they pass by.
Not only are they providing us with beauty, but they’re also important pollinators for our garden plants. For many of our pollinators, it becomes difficult to live in urban spaces where pesticides and concrete run rampant.
Here’s how you can support your local butterflies and ensure you build a beautiful and ideal space for the little pollinators.
This post will cover…
West Coast lady butterfly (Vanessa Annabella)
Know the Butterfly Lifecycle
In order to attract butterflies, it is important to understand their life cycle and the specific needs that go along with it.
Egg: Butterflies begin as eggs laid on the leaves of host plants.
Caterpillar: The egg hatches into a caterpillar, which at this stage does nothing but eat! It eats its way out of the egg to gain nutrients and then eats its host plant, which is why it needs to be located on the right plant for that type of butterfly.
Cocoon: Once the caterpillar has eaten enough to grow to its full size, it makes a cocoon or “chrysalis.”
Butterfly: Inside the cocoon, it metamorphoses into a butterfly. Just a few weeks to several months later (depending on the species), it emerges as a mature butterfly. After just a few hours, the butterfly gains enough strength to begin flying and pollinating flowers.
Having the right host plants for native butterflies in your area is essential for supporting them.
Plants That Support the Butterfly’s Lifecycle
Their life cycle requires butterflies to have both host plants for the larval stage and food plants for mature butterflies to pollinate.
Because species in different regions have evolved along with the area’s plant life to coexist, butterflies need to have native plants available to them. It is important for butterfly populations to have spaces kept entirely wild, weeds and all, such as nature preserves.
From small urban gardens to fields of wildflowers, every butterfly-safe environment helps. Creating your own butterfly garden helps to offset any habitat that has been destroyed due to development or maintenance.
Butterflies, too, can be affected by pesticides, and ensuring we grow safe plants for them helps to provide a place for them to thrive year-round.
How to Make a Butterfly Garden
Don’t worry, creating a butterfly garden doesn’t mean encouraging a bunch of weeds (although if you do decide to let a few live here or there, butterflies will appreciate it).
Gardeners who want a manicured look, as well as a butterfly garden, have many options for pretty plants that attract butterflies and provide them with what they need throughout their life cycle.
But first, here are a few additional things you need to complete your butterfly garden.
A Sunny Area
Butterflies thrive in the sun. As ectotherms, they rely on external sources in order to stay warm. Before they can fly, they need to make sure their body temperature is warm enough.
You’ve probably seen them perched on a sunny leaf with their wings on full display. This is them soaking up the sun! So, on the next sunny day, sit back and watch your visitors check out their favourite plants and sunbathe.
Tree Nymph butterfly (Idea leuconoe)
A Butterfly Feeder
A butterfly garden needs the right plants growing in sunny areas and a safe place for mature butterflies to lay their eggs. You can make your habitat even more attractive by putting together a butterfly feeder for them to snack on.
Butterflies feed on nectar, which is sugar from a plant. Fresh fruit also provides this for the butterflies. This is a good way to add supplemental nectar to the garden when there may be fewer blooms or if you notice a ton of butterflies.
However, having native plants with lots of nectar throughout the season is the best source!
Use up old fruits that are about to go in the compost bin.
Mud Puddles
Did you know that butterflies adore mud? They congregate around muddy areas, which gives them salt and nutrients. You can help them out by placing a shallow pan of water out for them. They often avoid birdbaths and other pools because the water is too deep.
A shallow pan gives them access to water for drinking and puddling. Adding some gravel or sand at the bottom helps, as well as rocks for basking in the sun.
Common Butterflies and Their Host Plants
Choosing native plants or a standard butterfly seed mix will attract various butterflies that are native to your area, but if you are looking to attract particular butterflies, your best bet is to plant the specific host plants that species in your area use.
Here are some of the most common butterfly species and the host plants that they require for the larval stage.
Once butterflies reach the mature stage of their life cycle, they are attracted to brightly coloured flowers with flat tops, short flower tubes, or flower clusters.
There are many butterfly-friendly plants, so the chances are you can find a few that will suit your growing zone. Here’s a list of some plants that will attract mature butterflies to your garden as long as they have host plants nearby as well.
By the way, milkweed might be one of the most beloved butterfly foods!Learn how to grow milkweed and find out why they love it so much. In addition to having a pretty flower garden, you can attract these lovely pollinators at the same time, creating a perfect garden partnership.
Red postman butterfly (Heliconius erato)
Supporting Other Pollinators
Moths are often forgotten about, but they are also beneficial pollinators and can be very beautiful. To attract moths to your garden, plant night-blooming flowers such as evening primrose (Oenothera), phlox (Phlox x arendsii), and fireweed (Chamerion angustifolium).
Butterflies and bees aren’t the only beneficial insects you want in your garden! Find out about the 7 best bugs for the garden.
Just because they don’t have bright, beautiful wings doesn’t mean they’re not important pollinators, too.
FAQ About Butterfly Gardens
What is the most common garden butterfly?
The most common butterfly varies depending on where you live. The most common globally is the painted lady species, which is found on every continent besides Antarctica and South America. Other common butterflies include monarchs and swallowtails.
What is in a butterfly garden?
A butterfly garden supports butterflies at every stage of their life. This means it’s important to have the host plants for the butterfly to lay eggs on and for the caterpillars to munch.
Then, you’ll need flowers to provide nectar. Butterflies like bright flowers with flat tops, as well as short tubular flowers. When in doubt, plant some native species for the pollinators in your neighbourhood.
A butterfly garden can also include a shallow bath with stones for butterflies to safely drink and puddle from.
Where is the best place to plant a butterfly garden?
Place your butterfly garden in the sun, as butterflies are ectotherms and rely on the sun to keep their bodies warm. Also, consider placing your butterfly garden away from anywhere there might be pesticides and away from bird feeders.
African Blue Basil, Ocimum kilimandscharicum x basilicum
Whether you garden in-ground or in a single windowbox, there is a plant that will lure every pollinator in the neighborhood to your green space. African blue basil’s myriad flowers, in bloom for months, guarantee a flurry of constant and diverse pollinator activity from morning until twilight, and from early summer until frost. There is never a dull moment. And with the right plant for pollinators, even a tiny urban space can contribute to a pollinator pathway—a pesticide and herbicide-free corridor of plants that provides food and shelter for pollinating insects, which are in decline due to loss of habitat and to widespread pesticide use.
It doesn’t hurt either that spending ten minutes on a bee safari is a very effective way of disconnecting from digital noise and reconnecting with the small things that matter.
Above: Windowbox-grown African blue basil in late summer on my Brooklyn terrace.
In a small space every inch counts, and the ideal plant has to work hard: It should be low-maintenance, bloom for months, have fragrant and edible leaves, and offer an irresistible nectary for a host of beneficial insects. That’s asking a lot. A very small handful of plants checks all those demanding boxes. African blue basil comes out pretty much at the top.
Above: A native carpenter bee visits African blue basil.
Native plant advocates might frown at a non-native being promoted for pollinators, but there are some mitigating factors to consider. Not everyone has the space for a collection of native perennials chosen for a bloom-sequence staggered for months-long interest (with a couple of exceptions, most perennials tend to flower for just a few weeks). And some perennials, like milkweeds and bee balms, resent being potted and perform best in-ground. City gardeners are often confined to containers, while most urban dwellers have no more than a windowsill to grow anything. African blue basil fits this demographic perfectly.
Common milkweed pods are a native vegetable that could be as familiar at summer greenmarkets as okra. As a food, milkweed still resides on the foraging fringes, or on rare restaurant menus, despite having been valued by Native Americans in regions throughout its range. Like okra, milkweed pods herald sweltering weather and are ready to harvest when crickets warm up and cicadas begin to zing. While succulent okra originates in Africa, and is grown as an annual crop in the United States, common milkweed (Asclepias syriaca) is a cold-hardy perennial indigenous to eastern North America. It has edible shoots, buds, flowers, and immature pods. And it is one of the most valuable milkweed hosts for monarch butterfly larvae.
Here’s why to plant common milkweed as a vegetable, and how to prepare milkweed pods once you have gathered a clutch.
Above: Warts and all, these tender common milkweed pods are at the right stage for harvest.
Dozens of milkweeds are native to North America. Monarchs, and hundreds of other insects, rely on them all for food. It bears repeating that the species we are discussing as human fare is Asclepias syriaca.
All parts of cooked common milkweed taste like a mild green vegetable, along with a distinctive sweetness. It is never bitter. If you have collected, or grow, a milkweed whose distinctive white sap does taste bitter (raw or cooked), it’s a different species. (Others may be edible, but we are not addressing them here.)
Above: Common milkweed flowers are heavily perfumed.
Common milkweed blooms in early to midsummer. Its plump umbels of blossoms are richly scented and they are edible in their own right, as are the immature green clusters of buds that precede them.
Above: Immature milkweed pods are tender and sweet.
Milkweed pods form about three weeks after a flower has been pollinated. More than the spring shoots or flower buds, they taste uniquely like the scent of the flowers, their flavor coming from the soft white seeds and their pre-silk nestled inside rough, green capsules. While the pods are immature, before the silk has strengthened and the seeds hardened, the entire milkweed pod is edible. (Later, as the capsule toughens, the seed-and-silk cluster inside can be popped out and cooked alone, before the silk becomes tough.)
Above: Tiny pods are good to eat, too. Large ones are fibrous. Above: Common milkweed pods in my previous vegetable garden.
Despite the fact that this striking native plant is beautiful in bloom, supports hundreds of insect species, and is edible from nose to tail (as it were), it remains unusual in cultivation. I have yet to hear of a farmer growing it for the table, but perceptions shift: Ten years ago no one was bringing invasive and edible Japanese knotweed to market, either, and that has begun to change.
Above: A monarch butterfly on milkweed in my previous garden. Their caterpillars feed on the leaves.
There are two main reasons that you might consider planting a pollinator garden in pots instead of in the ground: Either you don’t have a garden bed—or you’ve run out of space to plant anything more in your garden. In either scenario, a container garden can support pollinators just as well as an in-ground garden. Even if you aren’t dealing with space constraints, you might consider adding some pollinator pots, says Alicia Whitaker, a master gardener and a co-leader for the Suffolk Alliance for Pollinators’s South Fork chapter. “If they’re near an outdoor seating area, the gardener can see and enjoy the wildlife that will be attracted.” Plus, she notes: Containers are also a great option if the gardener has a mobility issue or other handicap that makes gardening in the ground difficult.
Above: A bumble bee nectaring on goldenrod. Photograph by Kim Eierman.
Here, nine tips on how to garden for pollinators in pots:
1. Be prepared to water often.
The most common mistake with any container garden is underwatering. “The soil in pots dries out faster, especially in a very sunny and hot environment, such as a windy deck or brick patio surface,” says Whitaker, who notes that people often underestimate the water needs of container plants because they are accustomed to worrying about overwatering indoor houseplants.
2. Go big.
Above: Susan Nock, a Boston-based garden designer with a specialty in container gardens, filled a large pot with tall grass, agastache, foxglove, daisies, scabiosa, verbena, angelonia, and sweet potato vine for a dynamic, pollinator-friendly design. Photograph by Susan Nock.
Garden pros recommend choosing the largest container possible. “A higher volume of soil will dry out less quickly,” explains Whitaker. But there’s another reason to go big: The more plants you cram into a pot, the better the chances the pollinators will find them. “When we use large pots or gang pots together in groups, we create some floral targets for pollinators,” says ecological horticulturist Kim Eierman, the author of The Pollinator Victory Garden and founder of EcoBeneficia. “That’s really important. Having a larger target makes it much easier for the pollinator to find the resource.” If you’re worried about weight, you can use a false bottom planter.
3. Amend the soil.
Both Whitaker and Eierman suggest mixing compost into the container’s soil, to nourish the plants and encourage root growth. “I apply a limited amount of compost a couple times a year to beef up the soil biology because there’s no interchange with any other soil,” adds Eierman. “I just put it on top and let rain do its thing.” Whitaker adds, “We often hear that native perennials prefer leaner soil and don’t require fertilizer, but the artificial environment of a container calls for better soil and the regular use of organic fertilizer.”
4. Consistency + variety is key.
Just like humans, pollinators need a diverse diet, but that doesn’t mean you need to run out and buy dozens of different plants. Eierman says to aim for a balance between diversity and sufficiency of given plants. So, rather than having many tiny plants of a wide variety of species, focus on a few types. “It’s better to have a more substantial amount of that one species,” says Eierman. Whitaker adds, “Think drifts, not polka dots.” When pollinators forage they’re looking for that one plant species, so a repetition of bloom from container to container can attract them without having one massive target, Eierman notes.
5. Give the bugs color cues.
Above: This composition of ‘Giga Blue’ pincushion flower, ‘VIBE Ignition’ purple salvia, and S’unSparkler Firecracker’ sedum by Monrovia demonstrates how you can do a monochromatic pollinator design using one color but different plants. Photograph via Monrovia.
“We know that pollinators have their color preferences,” says Whitaker. Hummingbirds are attracted to red flowers, while many bees love purples and yellows. Butterflies are drawn to a wide range of colors, but moths are attracted to white blossoms. “it’s good to have a variety of colors, and a variety of shapes,” says Whitaker, noting, “There are almost no wrong choices.”
If you want to start a horticultural fight, opine loudly at your next plant party about the best viburnums to grow. These flowering shrubs provoke strong opinions among the botanically inclined, and things could get ugly, fast. Dessert might be thrown. But consider our disciplined list of ten and hear us out. And bear in mind that there are almost 200 species to choose from, let alone cultivars and hybrids. Whether you want fruit, flowers, fall foliage (or all three), there is probably a viburnum for your gardening personality: extrovert, shy, down-to-earth, elegant, rambunctious, shape-shifting, or fragrantly alluring?
Above: Viburnum plicatum var. tomentosum ‘Summer Snowflake’.
But first: Why plant viburnums at all?
A range of sizes means that viburnums can stand in for trees in small spaces.
Multiple seasons of interest, from spring flowers to fall foliage and fruit (except in sterile species).
Flowering times that range from late winter to early summer, so you can build a collection.
The shrubs have interesting foliage with texture that rewards the detail-oriented gardener.
Viburnums that bear fruit offer ornamental interest in fall and winter, as well as food for the birds (and humans).
Kaleidoscopic fall colors, depending on the species you choose, and how much sun it receives.
Persistent winter fruits that feed birds when there is little else available.
1. Viburnum × bodnantense ‘Dawn’
Above: Viburnum × bodnantense ‘Dawn’ blooming as winter lingers.
At the end of winter, the exceptional fragrance of this tree-like hybrid viburnum is sweetly uplifting. It is a cross between V. farreri and V. grandiflorum, whose clusters of flowers start as deep rose-colored buds before paling in full bloom. The tubular flowers make you look twice, wondering whether a lilac has gone mad and erupted while there is snow on the ground. Flowering on bare branches, this earliest of viburnums is elegantly dramatic and more tolerant of frost than its grandiflorum parent. Usually sterile, few or no fruit will form, helping to ensure that this non-native viburnum does not spread. Viburnum × bodnantense is hardy from USDA zones 4 – 8.
2. Korean spice viburnum, Viburnum carlesii
Above: V. carlesii buds are pink, before opening into full-white bloom.
Above: The perfumed pom-poms of V. carlesii.
If scent is your thing, a must-have viburnum is the intensely fragrant Koreanspice. In mid spring its deep pink buds open into pale pink flowers that shift gradually into pure white. The flowers can be turned into an equally fragrant syrup, fermented wild soda, or perfumed honey (simply substitute the flowers in our Lilac Honey Recipe). Koreanspice is a slow-growing shrub that responds well to clipping (like a boxwood) and makes a showy ball of flowers when spring rolls round. Be sure to prune and shape it right after blooming, since all viburnums bloom on new wood (so, if you prune in fall, you will miss the next spring’s flowers). Extremely cold-hardy Viburnum carlesii is hardy from zones 2 – 8.
In summer our thoughts turn for refuge to cooling streams and pond edges, and to memories of a spring blaze of marsh marigold and moving water. Early to bloom, and in lush leaf through summer, marsh marigolds (Caltha palustris) are a cold-hardy and water-loving perennial. They are also a native alternative to their diminutive lookalike, the highly invasive lesser celandine (Ficaria verna). Differentiating between the two plants is helpful to curb the spread of one, and to encourage the cultivation of the other.
Photography by Marie Viljoen.
Above: Marsh marigolds have between 5 to 9 petal-like sepals, and have a mounding habit. Above: Lesser celandine has 8 to 12 petals, and a carpeting habit.
Both marsh marigolds and lesser celandine have buttercup-perfect, iridescent yellow flowers that signal their kinship: they belong to the Ranunculus family. But in North America lesser celandine, a transplant from Europe (it is also occurs natively in North Africa and West Asia), has mastered the insidious creep, smothering regional swathes of riverside and forest floor, altering habitats as it spreads its low but impenetrable canopy. Lesser celandine’s invasive status is mostly associated with the Northeast, but it is moving into the Midwest and occurs in the Pacific Northwest, too. In places where it grows beside moving water, flooding carries parts of the plant downstream, where they take root.
Above: Marsh marigolds at the Brooklyn Botanic Garden.
Marsh marigold’s species name palustris means “of marshes.” Varieties of marsh marigold have an unusually wide native distribution, described as circumboreal: The plants occur across the northern part of the planet (boreal means north), in North America, Europe, and Asia. The plant’s flowers are larger and more showy than lesser celandine’s. In terms of function, marsh marigold can stabilize stream banks, forming mounded, clumping colonies over time. The flowers’ pollen and nectar are a rich food source for native pollinators, and small mammals and ducks eat the seeds.
Above: Lesser celandine is very difficult to remove where it is widespread.
Lesser celandine removal sidebar: The removal of lesser celandine is not easy. If you have a few clumps, remove them at once. By the time a carpet has formed, the task is daunting, and complicated. Methodical mechanical removal, by hand, is best (although difficult), and vigilance is essential. Personally, I cannot recommend glyphosate (usually sold as Roundup).
Why not use glyphosate? There is its implication in the evolution of so-called super-weeds, for one thing. And while the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) considers glyphosate “not likely to be carcinogenic to humans,” the International Agency for Research on Cancer (IARC) does classify glyphosate as “probably carcinogenic to humans.” Quite the contradiction.
For your own rabbit hole research consider that the studies that the IARC relied on seem more in keeping with real-world situations and exposure than those employed on by the EPA. Glyphosate has been banned by California, and in 2020. New York banned the use of glyphosate on state property. Its use is especially problematic near water, or when associated with water tables (everything lands up in the water table). Glyphosate has been showing up in stream and air samples since 2011, and its knock-on effects on life forms other than the target-plant (from soil microbes to aquatic invertebrates) are being studied.
Above: Marsh marigolds favor flowing or oxygenated water.
My wildflower front yard has turned my house into the talk of the town. Everyone loves it! What was once a drab, uneven, and neglected lawn has turned into an urban meadow that is not only stunning but incredibly low maintenance and eco-friendly. Here’s how to transform your property using a wildflower alternative lawn mix!
When I moved into my new home, I knew it would need a ton of tender loving care to get it into a working and beautiful space. But I was up for the challenge!
In the backyard, I’m still deciding where to put my patio and garden beds. For the first little while, I had to find a parking spot for my trailer, which took much of my time.
So, when it came to gardening, I started with the front yard. The space was a mixture of uneven ground that quickly filled with water in my rainy Pacific Northwest climate. The lawn was patchy and very neglected.
It was a big UGH.
I’m happy to say that my front lawn is now one of my biggest sources of joy…and that’s because of wildflowers!
I want to shout from the rooftops that everyone needs to give up the old and demanding process of a front turf lawn and opt for an alternative lawn instead. And today, I’m going to tell you how I turned my front lawn into the heavenly meadow it is today.
The bees LOVE the wildflower lawn. Here is one by the baby blue-eyes flower.
My Front Yard Eco Lawn
My front yard project began in the fall when I planted over 1500 bulbs in my front garden to create a bulb lawn in the spring. I won’t go into detail here, but you can read all about that project in this post!
So, in the spring, while enjoying the first blooms of the season from my bulb lawn, I pondered what kind of alternative lawn mix I would use. Since I loved the flower bulbs so much, I thought, why not keep the flower train chugging along?
You can really see the sweet alyssum, baby blue-eyes, creeping daisy, and a few five-spot.
Is My Alternative Lawn Treadable?
Since this is my front yard, it won’t be getting a lot of traction. Kiddo is no longer a little, and I don’t need to worry about using it as a play space or somewhere for Ozzie to play ball.
So I’m totally okay with it growing about a foot tall or a bit taller. As of now, it’s only about 6-12 inches tall fully grown in.
If you or your animals step on it, the flowers will flop down where they’ve been and take a while to bounce back up. But they will eventually.
If you want something you can walk on without issues, you’ll want a different mix. That’s exactly what I did for my backyard!
My front yard has a path from the gate to the front door, so everyone can still get by!
My Backyard Eco Lawn
This post will mostly be about my gorgeous, beautiful, stunning, and fabulous front lawn (can you tell I’m obsessed?), but I want to mention what’s going on with my backyard as well.
For the backyard, I used West Coast Seed’s Bee Turf alternative lawn mix. This mixture, which is designed to replace conventional lawns, is a mixture of clover and low-growing wildflowers.
I knew that my backyard would need to be more walkable, and it wasn’t in as bad of shape as my front yard, so this was the ideal option.
The mixture incorporated well into my existing lawn.
Rather than covering the entire lawn, I mixed it in with the existing lawn and used it to cover some patches.
I will say it didn’t grow at all in the shade. Not even a little bit. But in the areas where there’s full sun, it filled in really nicely.
Like I said, it’s low-growing, so it looks a lot more like a conventional lawn but is much more eco-friendly! You don’t have to mow it nearly as often, it requires significantly less water and fertilizer, is resistant to weeds and chafer beetles, and increases habitat and forage for pollinators.
Some buttercup weeds are in the backyard, but I don’t mind.
My Alternative Lawn Planting Methodology
I have something to confess. I didn’t really follow the instructions on how to grow my front yard alternative lawn properly, but you saw that it still turned out amazing!
My method of planting is rooted entirely in chaos gardening. I go in with the mindset that nothing needs to be perfect, and I’m just trying to get things done in those moments when I can garden. So, following the same methodology as me might make some a little uneasy, as many like to go by the book.
The recommendation is that you remove as much of the existing vegetation as possible and loosen up the soil. I didn’t do that.
My lawn was VERY uneven and full of moss, grass, and buttercup. Even though buttercup is an invasive weed, I left it all and instead covered the entire lawn with a turf soil blend made of sand and compost.
Yes, I dealt with a muddy lawn for a while. But the bulbs came up early!
I used a rake to level out the lawn as best I could and then seeded my wildflower alternative lawn on top of it, using the rake again to blend the seeds into the soil.
The grass has now popped up amidst the wildflowers, and the buttercup, too, but I don’t mind, as it doesn’t look out of place with all the wild plants in there.
Raking it in helped to ensure the seeds stayed in place.
The other thing I did outside of the instructions was planted way too early. West Coast Seeds suggests you plant two weeks before your last frost date, but we had a strange winter, to say the least.
We had a very warm spell in mid-winter, and I saw this as an opportunity to get a head start on the lawn. After all, due to the top soil and rain, the lawn was mud at this point!
This worked out really well for me. Yes, I definitely had some losses, as I saw some heaving after we got a big frost (see below!). I’m not sure how the lawn would look if that didn’t happen, but I’m perfectly content with how it looks today.
Sun vs Shade Germination
I mentioned that the backyard didn’t germinate in the shade at all, and it didn’t fare well in the front yard, either.
The sunniest part of the yard had the most and earliest blooms. The plants right by my shady fence have all grown in now, but I supplemented it with some shade turf grass to fill in some of the spaces since some of the flowers weren’t growing without any sunshine.
Patience is key! It will eventually fill in.
But that is just the small patch along the fence. Now, it looks pretty even overall. All the time, people on the street stop to look at the lawn and I get so many compliments on it.
The buttercup weed mixes in nicely with the wildflower mix.
Watering Needs
As I’m writing this, I haven’t watered my lawn once. Yes, NO extra water has been needed.
It’s the number one question I get from people who pass by on the street as they ask me how much water it needs.
One of the reasons I planted it early on was so that I could get the seeds in right before it rained. I live in a very rainy climate, so I didn’t need any supplemental watering while the seeds were young and germinating.
According to West Coast Seeds, the lawn should only need water during long periods of hot and dry weather, so they should be able to handle most of the summer without any additional water. Which is not something the conventional lawn can say!
Ozzie and Magic don’t mind the eco lawn one bit.
Mowing My Eco Lawn
I have yet to mow my wildflower lawn, and the flowers currently range from 6 to 12 inches tall. I may mow it as I go along, but as of right now, I have no plans to mow my lawn.
The wildflower alternative lawn mix is a blend that isn’t intended to be mowed. The plants mature and go to seed, planting themselves and continuing to grow like a meadow.
West Coast Seeds suggests controlling growth with a string trimmer, but if you really want a manicured look, to mow once a month to 2 ½ to 3 inches. Keep in mind, the more you mow, the less blooms you have.
If you want something more manicured, a low-growing alternative lawn mix like the one I have in my backyard would probably be a better option for you, and you still only need to mow once a month.
I’ll say, I definitely overseeded. West Coast Seeds suggests that 50g should cover 430 sq. ft., and I pretty well doubled that. To say my wildflower lawn is luscious is an understatement!
Here, you can see how tall it is. Magic, my cat, certainly doesn’t mind!
And there you have it! That’s how my alternative lawn turned out, and I absolutely couldn’t recommend it enough. I won’t have to mow or water my lawn, and the bees are absolutely loving it.
If you have any questions about growing your own eco lawn, let me know in the comments below, and I’ll answer them as soon as I’m able.
If you’re trying to plant more responsibly and sustainably, and also want your garden to thrive with less fuss, consider adding some wild buckwheat to your beds. I was introduced to these useful shrubs and sub-shrubs when I brought home a few 4-inch pots of red buckwheat from Annie’s Annuals & Perennials. I planted one in my garden and the rest in my clients’ gardens, and have, along with the pollinators, continued to admire them.
Before we jump in, I need to clarify that the buckwheat I am writing about is not the gluten-free buckwheat that you might bake with (that’s the European cultivated Fagopyrumesculentum), nor is it the wild buckwheat, Fallopia convolvulus, that is commonly called black-bindweed. I’m talking about the California native buckwheat, Eriogonum, that supports over 250 different species and is hardy is USDA Zones 7-10. What draws me to these plants is that they not only have charming blossoms in a range of colors (yellow, creamy white, pink, or red), but they also provide important food sources for bees, birds, butterflies, and other pollinators from spring through fall.
Above: Red buckwheat (Eriogonum grande rubescens). Photograph by JKehoe_Photos via Flickr.
And whether in bloom and out of bloom, these plants can hold their own in a garden setting that receives a good amount of sun, receives minimal amounts of water, and has well draining soil. I like to pair these unthirsty shrubs with plants that have the same temperament—think sage, yarrow, ceanothus, and penstemon.
The key to planting buckwheat—and come to think of it, planting any plant—is to first understand the plant’s origins and then see if your garden replicates those conditions. So for example, red buckwheat is native to the Channel Islands in Southern California, so it appreciates exposed rocky conditions with lean soil. In the beginning of my buckwheat journey, I made the mistake of babying them (I’m a mother, after all) and added too much compost to the planting area. Quickly my little buckwheats suffered from pampering and died. What I quickly learned is that these plants like lean soil and actually thrive on some neglect.
Pro tip: If after several years your plants get too rangy looking, simply replace them with new small starts. The best time to plant/replant (as with most natives) is in the fall, when rainy days will help your plants develop a hardy root system.
I purchased my first buckwheats at Annie’s Annuals & Perennials, which carries quite a few wild buckwheats, including these three favorites:
‘Red buckwheat’, Eriogonum grande rubescens. This magnificent low shrub (1′ x 3′) sports spoon-shaped leaves and bursts with dark pink/crimson red pompom blooms in June and continuing through October if deadheaded. This plant looks lovely massed along a path edge or border. Hardy to 15 degrees F.
Giant buckwheat, Eriogonum giganteum. This grey-green evergreen shrub is commonly called St. Catherine’s Lace and is considered the grande dame of the species. Give this showy plant plenty of space to reach its full potential (4-8′ tall and almost as wide). Expect extra large sprays of creamy white flowers heads that resemble lacy doilies and that attract bees, butterflies, and other tiny beneficial insects. Added bonus: birds snack on the seeds plus use the large plants for shelter.
‘Ella Nelson’s Yellow’, Eriogonum nudum. Growing to 3′ high and 2′ wide, this plant explodes in the spring with the cutest yellow pompom flowers. Makes a unique cut flower.
Great in dry, native, habitat, or cottage gardens. Also useful massed on hillsides as they are great for erosion control.
Attracts bees and butterflies by the bunches and provides important late summer food for pollinators.
Mostly deer-resistant but I have seen the flower tops munched off by desperate deer.
Prune fresh or dried flowers to hang upside down for later use in flower arrangements.
Keep It Alive
Above: A 4-inch pot of Red Buckwheat is $12.95 at Annie’s Annuals & Perennials.
Most prefer a sunny spot for full growth and less legginess.
Once established they need very little water. Pro tip: overwatering will definitely push them over the edge.
Fast draining soil is important, meaning sandy, rocky, or gravelly. Too much rich compost is disliked.
A gravel mulch is preferred to avoid stem rot.
After flowering, the blooms fade to attractive fall-hued colors.
Prune to shape when they are young.
Sow seeds in sand or potting mix and keep moist until germination. Next, let seedlings dry out between waterings and then transplant into larger pots before setting out in fall.
Seen through the critical lens of weeds, dandelions are perhaps the most familiar nuisance plant of all. Seen through the appreciative lens of food, they are a welcome and fresh spring ingredient. You don’t have to be a forager to recognize the new, lion-toothed leaves (dent-de-lion is the French etymology) emerging from their overwintering crowns in spring. A few weeks later, dandelions’ bright flowers, rayed like miniature suns, set fields, lawns, and path edges ablaze. Soon, their silky parachute-seeds drift off—the threat (or promise) of more.
Instead of reaching for the Roundup, let’s rewind, rewild, and re-set our dandelion clocks to appreciate this useful plant.
Dandelions are one of the bitter herbs of Passover, and in Gaza today, dandelions, along with other hardy “weeds” like common mallow, feed the hungry. An edible plant valued at least since the Ancients ate them as a tonic, dandelions are associated with a solid repertoire of traditional recipes. Dive into cookbooks and websites from countries ranged around the Mediterranean and the Middle East, and you will find them on plates of wilted greens annointed with olive oil and caramelized onions, in yeasted pies and meaty stews, and in reassuringly simple salads.
Above: Early-blooming dandelions give bees a boost.
A bee-friendly PSA: While dandelions are good to eat if you are human, their flowers are also a boon to bees. Their bloom time varies according to regional seasonal differences, so consider not mowing your lawn (and lobby your local municipality or park not to mow either) when they bloom in your area.
Above: Dandelion crowns include the base of the plant, leaves, buds, and flowers.
Above: Early spring’s dandelion crowns wilting in a hot pan with oil.
Early spring’s dandelion crowns are the whole basal rosette of the plant, sliced just above the root. Harvested before the more uncompromising bitterness of the mature leaves has developed, the crowns are a crunchy and mild vegetable, and succulent treat.
While the crowns can be eaten raw in salads, they are also easy to wilt entire in a pan of warm oil. My favorite spring snack is a quick cicchetti-like bite of sautéed dandelions atop good bread, with some field garlic to add a pungent bite. They can also be added whole to familiar dishes from almost any culinary genre: East Asian noodle bowls, Southeast Asian-style curries, Italian-inspired spaghetti (with bottarga), Senegalese maafe, South African bredies. Willing, and wilted, the dandelions add an additional layer of flavor to any of these meals, along with a healthy dose of minerals and antioxidants.
Above: Wilted dandelion crowns tossed into pad thai. Above: Tender dandelion leaves.
“The priority in gardening is no longer just about mastering an aesthetic,” says Bishop. “There is a shift toward being more mindful and ethical. We need to embrace the natural systems that we’ve just forgotten about.” Here’s what you can do at home.
Above: These tiny masked bees are solitary, nesting in twigs and stems. Since they’re so small, they prefer small flowers, even “ones we might not really notice, like those found in an alternative lawn” says Kornbluth. Because of their size, they can go deep inside flowers to get nectar. Not particularly hairy, they don’t carry pollen on their bodies, like other bees, but carry it in their “’crop,’ the upper part of the digestive tract.” This masked bee was spotted foraging on snakeroot in Bishop’s garden.
Grow native plants in your garden.
Native insects coevolved with native plants. They’re part of an intricate food web system. For most organisms, non-native plants are like “plastic fruit in a fruit bowl,” says Kornbluth. “It may look good, but they won’t be able to eat it.” While nectar-eating insects are able to enjoy the sugary, calorie-rich nectar from a wide range of flowers, “pollen, which bees need to feed their young, is more likely to come from the local native species that they have been coevolving with them for many thousands of years,” says Kornbluth. (At Perfect Earth Project, we advocate for at least two-thirds native plants in your garden.)
Don’t use pesticides.
Even organic ones. Pesticides (and that includes insecticides, herbicides, and fungicides) don’t discriminate and will kill all insects—not just the ones you’re targeting. When selecting plants at the nursery, ask if they’ve been treated with pesticides of any kind, especially neonicotinoids, a systemic insecticide that is absorbed by the entire plant rendering every part poisonous to pollinators.
Above: Male longhorn bees feature very long antennae. These bees are specialists of Asteraceae, and especially love sunflowers. Look for them buzzing about in July and August.
Provide nesting spots.
Native bees nest in the ground and in stems and wood piles. “It’s important to remember that the standing dead vegetation you see is full of bees,” says Kornbluth. Try not to cut back stems when flowers are done blooming, but leave them for the bees. If you’re concerned about how that’s going to look, visit The Battery, says Bishop, and see how pretty it is all winter long. “Embracing a plant’s complete life cycle—from seedlings in spring to seed head or grass mound in winter—is a Piet Oudolf trademark,” says Bishop of the visionary Dutch landscape designer who created the garden’s master plan. “By not deadheading, we allow the life cycle to stay on display and integrate into design year-round. And this decay becomes abundant living matter and nest material for pollinators.” It’s also beautiful. “I love the aesthetic: the decay, structure, and different textures of every plant—they each have their own kind of personality,” says Bishop.
But if you must cut some stems back, Kornbluth advises leaving last year’s stems as high as you can. While you’re at it, leave the leaves. In addition to feeding the soil, fallen leaves provide insulation for ground-nesters, like bumblebees and mining bees, as well as other hibernating organisms. “It prevents the surface of the earth from getting too cold, which impacts their survival over the winter,” says Kornbluth.
Look and learn.
“Do a small insect safari at home,” suggests Kornbluth. Bishop has been doing this in her own backyard in Westchester, New York, and happily admits the glee she feels when finding new species in her garden. “Give yourself the opportunity to be meditative and peaceful,” says Kornbluth. See who’s coming to eat. What do you notice about them? What plants are they visiting? When are they appearing? Share what you find on iNaturalist. “The whole process is very eye-opening, engaging, and connecting.”
A bulb lawn is one of the most beautiful ways to usher in the spring. A wave of colourful flowers erupts across your lawn, creating a welcome display for your enjoyment and the pollinators after a cold winter. Follow along to see how I designed and planted my front yard bulb garden.
Photo courtesy of flowerbulbs.com
It’s my first fall in my new house, and while I’ve been here for a couple of months now, I still feel like I’m just settling in. I’ve barely scratched the surface of the garden.
So, when flowerbulbs.com offered to send me 1500 bulbs to create a front yard pollinator garden, I leapt at the opportunity.
My front yard space is small, about 600 sq. ft., and very patchy. It currently consists of moss, buttercup, and a bit of turf. And after years of poor drainage and neglect, it’s not level. So you could say that a bulb lawn makeover is very much needed!
Be sure to read all the way to the end because I have a great bulb giveaway for two lucky readers as well!
Follow along to see how I designed and planted my front yard bulb garden.
Mixing your bulbs together creates a more natural look.
Sponsored Content: Thank you to flowerbulbs.com for sponsoring this post and providing the epic bulb giveaway. Flowerbulbs.com is an amazing resource to help you learn about all the different kinds of bulbs and how to plant them.Be sure to check them out!
What is a Bulb Lawn?
Bulb lawns are exactly what they sound like! You plant spring-flowering bulbs in the fall in your lawn, and come early spring, they begin to bloom across your grass. It’s a practice that began in Europe hundreds of years ago and is popular in many botanical gardens today.
Most gardeners choose naturalizing bulbs. These are bulbs that you plant once, and then they return and multiply over the years, such as snowdrops, crocus, and daffodils. Over time, it will slowly cover your lawn into a spectacular display of spring colour.
Front bulb gardens provide many ecological and aesthetic benefits. No matter the type of lawn, it’s easy to start planting bulbs to spruce up an otherwise empty space.
The bulbs will provide early-season pollen and nectar for pollinators when little else is blooming. Spring-flowering bulbs are some of the first flowers to awaken, providing lots of colour and texture after a sometimes gloomy winter.
Bulbs in lawns are incredibly low maintenance. After planting, you only need to water them once to help them establish themselves. You don’t mow in the spring, as the flowers bloom. Then, the naturalizing bulbs return on their own, slowly multiplying every following season.
Physically, I have not been doing well lately. I’ve had a flare-up of my disability that has made daily tasks incredibly challenging. So, while I was excited to get these bulbs and plant a front yard pollinator garden, I honestly didn’t know how I would get the job done.
I know many people who read Garden Therapy also struggle with physical and other restraints that keep them from being able to garden. So, it was important to me that I tackle this project and get my own garden therapy while also sharing how I made it easier on myself living through this current flare-up that has really taken me down.
So, first and foremost, I asked for help. I started by calling in some local landscaping friends to see if somebody could come and help me with the planting. And they came through!
Me with my power planter. Power planters are good for planting multiple bulbs.
Preparing for Your Bulb Garden
Before you begin planting, you’ll want to mow your lawn ahead of time so it’s easy to dig into and map out a design.
If you haven’t already grabbed your bulbs, then make sure you get them ASAP before the frost comes and the ground freezes.
For a front yard pollinator garden, make sure to include single flower blooms. Double flower blooms are beautiful, and you can certainly plant some, but pollinators need single flowers.
Here is the mixture that I ended up planting:
100 Narcissus “Tete a Tete Tops”
200 Anemone “Blanda”
50 Chionodoxa luciliae “Alba”
100 Dwarf iris “Alida”
100 Dwarf iris “J.S.Dyt”
100 Dwarf iris “Louise”
100 Snowdrops “Floreo Plena”
400 Muscari
200 Crocus Large Mix
200 Tulips
Make Your Design
My front yard is a small south-facing space. In front, there are two large trees on the city property, plus a 3-foot tall fence surrounding the yard.
With my friends, we chatted through some design ideas. I originally wanted to do a muscari river through the centre of the lawn and then plant a mixture of low-growing bulbs to naturalize on either side of the river.
But there were two big challenges with this plan. First, I thought it would look slightly contrived in the front yard. Two gates come into the yard; one gate has a pathway that goes into the backyard, while the other has a pathway to the front door. With a muscari river between those two paths, it wouldn’t have the natural flow I was looking for.
The second challenge was that lots of digging would be involved to get 1500 bulbs in the front yard. In my previous stinzen planting project at my rental house, we used a power planter to drill holes for all the bulbs individually.
If I did that for this project, I would have 1500 holes in the yard, and that just didn’t seem like the right strategy for such a small space.
So here’s what we did…
Use a large container to mix up your bulbs easily.
Mixed Bulb Pockets
To achieve the naturalized look I wanted, we decided to do little pockets of mixed bulbs throughout the lawn. We mixed all the bulbs together to create a much more natural appearance.
When planning out your design, you want to ensure you can still access the garden if you need to. You also want to place them in a low-traffic area so the bulbs aren’t disturbed when blooming.
For my pocket design, you can still walk across the lawn between all the bulbs that will grow like lily pads popping up in the spring.
This design also allowed me to level the lawn. We found small natural depressions in the lawn (like the heart shape below) and lifted the soil. Once we placed the bulbs, we could put chunks of the lawn on top. This helped to lift the area so that the lawn is now semi-graded.
When planting a bulb garden, you want to try to place it in full sun. While the bulbs can grow in partial shade, they thrive with lots of spring sunlight.
This natural heart shape was a depression in the lawn. Digging it up will help level my lawn. I added more soil to this sunken area.
Tulip Border
In my bub garden design, I also included a tulip border. For this, I mixed 4 varieties of tulips in a wave along the fence. You can use spray paint or a hose to help you map out a design. We just went freehand and dug it up. We will see how it looks in the spring!
Here are the varieties of tulips I planted:
“Couleur Cardinal”
“Purple Prince”
“Continental”
“Sunny Prince”
Plant Your Bulbs
Finally, we were ready to plant! With the tulips separate, I mixed together the 1300 remaining bulbs and dug about 20 different-shaped pockets.
With so many bulbs to plant, we didn’t worry about careful placement. We dug down about 6 inches deep into the soil.
I then tossed in a couple of handfuls of bulbs, so it looked like they would fill the space quite nicely. Then, we turned them all around so that the roots were pointed down and the tips up while laughing and shouting, “Bums down!”
Then, we backfilled with the soil and placed the turf back on top. Of course, the turf was falling apart due to the heavy percentage of moss and weeds. Not enough turf roots were there to hold the structure together, so it became a mishmash of placing as many of the puzzle pieces back in as possible and topping the rest off with new soil and seed.
Yes, the lawn won’t look the prettiest after the initial bulb planting, but it does bounce back quickly. I started my project a bit later than I would want the lawn to recover well before winter, but I’m still confident it will look fabulous in the spring!
Make sure your bulbs are planted pointy end facing up and roots down.
A Note on Depth
As you can see, I didn’t fuss too much about the planting depth for all the different bulbs. But typically, you want to plant the bulbs 3X as deep as they are tall.
For instance, daffodil bulbs are 2 inches tall, so you’d plant them 6 inches deep. Meanwhile, you can have really small bulbs that only get planted 2 inches deep.
If you don’t have as many bulbs as me, you can be a little more careful about your planting depths. You can also group the bulbs based on their size when mixing them. This way, you can dig deeper depending on what mix you’re currently planting.
The tulip bulbs were planted in the back border as a colourful spring display.
Repairing the Lawn
After planting, my lawn looked a little patchy, but truly, if you hadn’t seen us plant all those bulbs, you would never have known. I watered my lawn to help settle everything and help establish the bulbs.
Since my lawn needed some TLC in the first place, the next step will be to top the entire lawn with more topsoil and then reseed it. I’ll be seeding my lawn with a mixture of microclover and turf grasses that do well in the shade—even though my lawn is south-facing, it does get a lot of shade because of the structures around it.
Ozzie oversaw all of our design plans and planting 😉
My Methodology
While planting my bulb garden, a friend visited for the weekend. While she doesn’t identify as a gardener, she did agree to help me. Her previous experience with bulbs was buying a package from the garden centre, bringing it home, and letting a couple of years pass. She still has that package, although I broke the news that they were now compost (but most likely dust). She had the best intentions but became overwhelmed by the spacing and location and wasn’t sure how to do it.
When we started planting, she was quite surprised that we dug holes and tossed in our bulbs willy-nilly before adjusting their direction. We didn’t add any bonemeal; instead, we just topped them with soil. I explained that this freestyle planting comes with some experience.
Ok, so I just wrote that I didn’t add any bonemeal. Let me explain. Generally, home gardens have enough phosphorous in our soil, so adding bonemeal isn’t necessary.
Bulb fertilizers are often labelled as ‘bloom boosters’ because the high phosphorous levels encourage plant flowering. If you notice that your container plants aren’t flowering as much as they should be, adding additional phosphorous could be the key to more blooms.
That being said, the ground soil in a home garden probably has adequate amounts of phosphorous. Adding more than the plants need can run off into water systems, creating environmental issues.
Even more concerning is that phosphorous is a finite resource, and humans are consuming it for agricultural purposes at alarming rates. While farmed land may need phosphorous to be replenished, in the home garden, it is only needed when a soil test shows a deficiency or when fertilizing plants in potting soil.
My tulip border along the front fence.
Growing a Natural Lawn
I was very surprised when I lifted the grass to see how healthy the soil was below. It was a beautiful surprise full of microorganisms and some organic matter. It was light and fluffy, dark black, and well-hydrated. What a treat!
Immediately, I was encouraged that this would make a beautiful garden because the soil was so healthy.
Since I garden from a permaculture standpoint, I try to make all my projects regenerative. Topping the soil would encourage plants to grow besides turf and bulbs. Those wild plants are great for the soil, improving the nutrient mixture to help the bulbs flower.
Over the years, I’ll keep adding some nice compost and continue to support the soil health with the addition of microclovers and turf grasses. This will allow a mixture of wild plants, like buttercup, to grow and flower, providing even more pollinator food.
Then, the bulbs in the lawn will become more like a meadow space and naturalize in a way that looks effortless, all while helping out local wildlife.
Bulb Garden Giveaway!
I’ve partnered with flowerbulbs.com to give away a stunning spring flowering bulb mixture perfect for creating a bulb lawn or garden. Not one but TWO lucky garden therapy winners will win $100 worth of bulbs for planting.
To enter the contest, leave a comment down below letting me know which bulbs are your favourite to grow. This contest is open until November 23, 2023, when I will use a random number generator to select the winners. This contest is only open to US residents.
Photo courtesy of flowerbulbs.com
FAQ About Bulb Gardens
When should I plant my bulb lawn?
You want to plant your bulb garden before the first frost and the ground freezes. Here are some recommendations for zones from flowerbulbs.com. Zone 4-5 — September to October Zone 6-7 — October to early November Zone 8-9 — November to early December Zone 10+ — late December to early January
How do I mow a bulb lawn?
In the spring, do not mow. Wait as long as you can until your foliage turns yellow. Then, you can mow normally. You want to avoid mowing until the plant dies, as it needs to gather energy to store in the bulb so it returns the following year. After blooming, your bulb lawn will look like a regular lawn.
How do I stop squirrels from digging up my bulbs?
Squirrels love dirt and loose soil. So, after planting bulbs in lawn, you’ll notice that squirrels might come flocking to your garden. You can peg chicken wire down over your lawn for the first few weeks until the grass appears normal again. You can also sprinkle grass seed over the top to help encourage the grass to fill back in quickly.
Planting at the right depth also means the squirrels might not dig that deep. I have a hard time picturing squirrels digging down 6 inches!
Watch this video to see how I handled the squirrels in my bulb garden last year.
