ReportWire

Tag: perennials

  • The 7 Best Perennials for Shade Gardens – Garden Therapy

    [ad_1]

    Many of us have at least a section of garden that is shady most of the time. Shade gardens can be bor-ring unless you spice them up with plants that have interesting colors, shapes, and textures. These hardy beauties are made for the shade. That is to say, these plants all thrive in shady spaces while adding color and interest. Pop a few of these into your shady space and it just might become your favorite part of the garden.

    When planting your shade garden, be sure to include a variety of plants with different shapes, sizes, colors, and textures. Dark corners of the garden often go unnoticed, but if you intentionally fill up the space with plants that draw the eye and have visual interest, the shadiest part of your garden can become an eye-catching focal point!

    Some of my very favorite gardens are shade gardens. When the summer sun gets so hot that it feels oppressive, it is a wonderful feeling to retreat to a cool, softly lit part of the garden full of lush, beautiful plants. Traditional Japanese gardens are just gorgeous, and they often incorporate shade into the design. For some serious shade garden inspiration, head over here to take a virtual tour of the Nitobe Memorial Garden at the University of British Columbia.

    The Nitobe Memorial Garden

    Here are my favorite plants to add to shady areas. If your garden is in full sun, take a look at this post on the best perennials that love the sun!

    Helleborus (Hellebore)

    Hellebores have beautiful, delicate, bell-shaped flowers in the late winter and early spring, but many varieties also have very pleasing decorative foliage. Enjoy their beauty in the garden or cut the flowers and float them in a dish of water for a gorgeous table centerpiece. See more about hellebore growing and care here.

    Geranium macrorrhizum (Big Root Geranium)

    This geranium grows in large clumps of white or light pink flowers that bloom prolifically from spring until autumn. Cut back when the blooms begin to fade and watch even more appear. It also deters deer, so it’s a great choice if you have local deer who love to munch on your precious garden plants. Makes a great groundcover.

    Hosta

    Hostas are known for their large, attractive leaves that come in a wide variety of colors, shapes, and textures (I love the leaves so much that I captured their image in these DIY stepping stones). They produce small flowers in the summer as well but the foliage is the main event. Hostas are also edible! Learn how to cook and eat them in this article.

    golden hosta

    Lamprocapnos spectabilis (Bleeding Heart)

    An old garden standby for a reason! The little chains of pink, heart-shaped flowers on this perennial are stunning in spring and early summer. The plant goes dormant after that and is not particularly interesting, but if you want spring interest in your shade garden, don’t skip this plant.

    Astilbe

    Astilbe have dark, dramatic foliage with jagged edges that create interest. In summertime a tower of pink-to-purple, feathery flower spikes will bloom and steal the show. A pretty way to attract beneficial pollinators to your shade garden.

    Ajuga (Bugle)

    Bees love the bright blue-to-purple flowers of this glossy, low-growing ground cover (see what other plants attract pollinators). Its foliage is also impressive, with dark leaves variegated with white or pink. A great filler plant!

    Hakonechloa macra (Japanese Forestgrass)

    This decorative grass has a gorgeous sculptural shape, and the bright greens and yellows of the variegated blades of grass bring some much needed vibrancy to a dark, shady part of the garden.

    japanese forest grass

     

    That covers shade gardens, but what about sunny gardens? Check out this post for the best sun-loving perennials.

    More on Perennials here:

    [ad_2]

    Stephanie Rose

    Source link

  • Create Your Own Lavender Field by Growing Lavender From Seed

    [ad_1]


    How to Grow Lavender From Seed





























    Privacy & Cookies Policy

    [ad_2]

    Tara Nolan

    Source link

  • Plant This Hardy Spring Wildflower in the Garden for Hummingbirds

    [ad_1]


    How to Grow Wild Columbine in the Garden




























    Privacy & Cookies Policy

    [ad_2]

    Tara Nolan

    Source link

  • Plant These Perennials That Bloom All Summer for Your Most Colorful Garden Ever

    [ad_1]


    10 Perennials That Bloom All Summer





























    Privacy & Cookies Policy

    [ad_2]

    Jessica Walliser

    Source link

  • Garden Visit: Beverley McConnell’s 12 Acres of Eden – Gardenista

    [ad_1]

    Only a handful of gardens around the globe are real must-visits for garden lovers. Ayrlies, on a large country estate near Whitford, southeast of Auckland on New Zealand’s North Island, is one.

    This masterpiece was begun more than 60 years ago by Beverley and Malcolm McConnell. As a young couple, they purchased a large rolling pastoral terrain, meant for cattle, to start their family. They were amateur gardeners with big ideas. They began by turning three acres into a garden, and over the years it grew to 12 acres of heavily planted informal gardens, with several ponds and water features.

    Beverley has the eye, and a natural sense of color, texture, and combinations. Her late husband, Malcolm, who headed up a large engineering and construction company, was keenly interested in water. And several years in they hired Oliver Briers, knowing it would take more than just the two of them to realize their dreams. Working by Bev’s side, he helped bring a sense of design to the property, now a lush garden of Eden.

    Beverley has been called the Vita Sackville-West of our day, working with a sub-tropical palette of exotics and native plants. Building a garden like this takes a lifetime, and to have a soul it needs an artist at the helm. Now in her 80s, she is still a vital force. If creating the ornamental garden wasn’t enough, in 2000 she embarked on a 35-acre wetlands project to restore five acres of swampland that connects the garden to the Hauraki Gulf.

    Photography by Ingalls Photography.

    The ponds and water features at Ayrlies were all created by Malcolm, who was fascinated by the effects of water in a garden. Here, tree ferns and aquatic plants create a lush scene, somehow making the pond look as if it�217;s been there forever.
    Above: The ponds and water features at Ayrlies were all created by Malcolm, who was fascinated by the effects of water in a garden. Here, tree ferns and aquatic plants create a lush scene, somehow making the pond look as if it’s been there forever.
    Many areas of the garden are delineated by theme, plant selection, and color. In the Lurid Border, Beverley plays with hot Gauguin-like colors: orange day lilies �216;Flaming Nora�217;, black-leafed castor bean, and variegated canna with striking orange blooms, underplanted with silver stachys, or lamb�217;s ear.
    Above: Many areas of the garden are delineated by theme, plant selection, and color. In the Lurid Border, Beverley plays with hot Gauguin-like colors: orange day lilies ‘Flaming Nora’, black-leafed castor bean, and variegated canna with striking orange blooms, underplanted with silver stachys, or lamb’s ear.

    [ad_2]

    Source link

  • Vernonia lettermannii ‘Iron Butterfly’: Plant of the Year for 2026

    [ad_1]

    The Garden Club of America (GCA) has named Vernonia lettermannii ‘Iron Butterfly’ Plant of the Year—which, according to its website, “is awarded annually to acknowledge the cultivation and use of native plants, trees, shrubs, ground covers, vines, and perennials that are little known but deemed worthy to be preserved, propagated, promoted, and planted.”

    “We engage with a small group of horticulture professionals from various botanical gardens and arboreta in the US. They receive all nominations and rank the plants based on growth factors, ecological services, adaptability, etc.,” explains horticulturalist and Freeman Medal vice chair Cynthia Druckenbrod, of the selection process. “They chose Vernonia lettermanni ‘Iron Butterfly’ because of its late season color, compact growth habit making it successful in backyard gardens, and drought and disease tolerance.”

    Above: Photograph by Krzysztof Ziarnek via Wikimedia.

    While ironweed itself is not unknown, this cultivar is a recent addition. “More nurseries are growing and selling this cultivar now. It was a relatively recent introduction in 2014, and Mt. Cuba Center’s trial of Vernonia cultivars was conducted between 2020 and 2023. During that time, their botanists ranked V. lettermannii ‘Iron Butterfly’ very high,” she shares.

    The cultivar has a lot going for it—and landscape designers have taken notice (Piet Oudolf has been known to incorporate the plant into his landscapes). With beautiful, almost fern-like narrow leaves, it adds soft mounds of texture in the garden. Its clumping habit makes it well behaved. It can tolerate drought as well as the occasional deluge, making itself happy in just about any part of the garden that has full sun. It can grow in poor soil and doesn’t require much attention, but can benefit with a Chelsea chop in May. Its purple-ish flowers bloom as early as July and can continue to frost, providing food for migrating hummingbirds and butterflies.

    A 5-inch deep pot of Iron Butterfly Ironweed is $17.99 at High Country Gardens.
    Above: A 5-inch deep pot of Iron Butterfly Ironweed is $17.99 at High Country Gardens.

    “Gardens should provide nectar sources for pollinators equally during spring, summer, and fall if possible. I think most tend to focus on mid-summer blooming perennials. Fall-blooming perennials are a real delight providing color until frost and important food resources for insects that overwinter or are laying eggs in the fall.”

    One last thing, if you are wondering if the plant was named after rock band Iron Butterfly, the answer is, yes! Steve Castorani, from North Creek Nurseries, gave it its name as a nod to the band and to the plant’s toughness and ability to thrive in poor conditions.

    Cheat Sheet

    Above: Joe-Pye weed and Vernonia lettermannii in a Pennsylvania garden. Photograph by Larry Weaner, from Garden Visit: Out with the Lawn, In with the Native Plants.
    • Native to Arkansas and Oklahoma, the hardy perennial does best in zones 4 to 9.
    • Tolerates a wide range of soils.
    • Grows to 24- to 36-inches high and 18- to 36-inches wide. Clump forming.
    • Drought tolerant once established.
    • Low maintenance. Happy in a prairie as well as a rock garden.

    Keep It Alive

    A 1-pint pot of Vernonia lettermannii �216;Iron Butterly�217; is $19 at White Flower Farm.
    Above: A 1-pint pot of Vernonia lettermannii ‘Iron Butterly’ is $19 at White Flower Farm.
    • Prefers full sun but will tolerate light shade. Too little sun will make the plant floppy.
    • Quite happy in poor soil, since over-rich soil will do the same as too little sun.
    • Very disease- and pest-resistant.

    See also:

    (Visited 99 times, 98 visits today)

    [ad_2]

    Source link

  • Do Not Plant This Invasive Groundcover if you Live in North America

    [ad_1]


    Avoiding English Ivy, An Invasive Groundcover in North America





























    Privacy & Cookies Policy

    [ad_2]

    Tara Nolan

    Source link

  • Secrets of an English Head Gardener: How to Transplant Shrubs and Perennials – Gardenista

    [ad_1]

    Moving perennials or shrubs once they’re in situ can be daunting for a novice gardener. But when you are starting a garden or reinventing one, it’s almost impossible not to make the occasional planting error or realize that you’ve put something in the wrong spot. Yet many plants transplant well—some even require it as part of routine divisions—and the whole process is a lot less scary than you might think.

    We asked Edward Flint, who is head gardener at Tidebrook Manor in East Sussex and worked for many years alongside Christopher Lloyd at Great Dixter, for his tips on how, when, and why to move plants—and which you should leave well alone.

    Here are nine tips to transplant shrubs and perennials:

    How to Transplant Shrubs

    Moving a shrub is always a risk; some will cope with the stress and trauma better than others but if you need to move it then there are some ground rules.

    1. Water before digging. “Water the plant really well the night before and then reduce its canopy,” says Ed. “This will lessen the stress on the plant (balancing the top growth with the roots) but will also make it easier to maneuver the plant.

    Bare Root Beech Plants (Fagus sylvatica) make good hedging plants are available in various sizes for prices from £1.29 to £49.99 depending on size from best4hedging.
    Above: Bare Root Beech Plants (Fagus sylvatica) make good hedging plants are available in various sizes for prices from £1.29 to £49.99 depending on size from best4hedging.

    2. Be gentle with the roots. Try to dig the plant out with as much root ball as possible, cutting into the ground around 12 to 18 inches from the base, says Ed.

    Reviving a historic parterre in Northamptonshire. For more of this garden, see Rehab Diary, Part 3: Uncovering the Past in Nancy Lancaster’s Garden at Wilderness House. Photograph by Jim Powell.
    Above: Reviving a historic parterre in Northamptonshire. For more of this garden, see Rehab Diary, Part 3: Uncovering the Past in Nancy Lancaster’s Garden at Wilderness House. Photograph by Jim Powell.

    3. Plan ahead and root prune before transplanting. If you’re planning to move an established shrub then you can root prune the plant a year before by digging down in a circle around the base, which will lessen the shock when you eventually transplant it. But as a rule, says Ed, shrubby things or woody-based things tend not to move very well.

    [ad_2]

    Source link

  • Perennials for a Shade Garden: Our Favorite Native Species and Hardy Flowering Plants

    [ad_1]

    All week, we’re revisiting the most popular stories of 2025, including this one from July.

    A shade garden is a green and contemplative refuge. It can also be a botanical calendar, with flowers signaling the change of seasons. Well-chosen perennials for shade provide texture and pattern, flowers, and sometimes even fruit. They offer an indispensable layer of interest alongside the architecture of shrubs and trees, and the seasonal excitement of shade-loving annuals. Perennials are plants that return every year after a dormant period and they usually bloom for a few weeks. Choosing perennials whose bloom-time is staggered over the growing season gives us that gift that gardeners, in particular, enjoy: anticipation. Our favorite perennials for shade work harder, though, and are about more than flowers—their foliage or form is interesting even when the plant is not flowering. Here are 13 of our favorites.

    Foamflower, Tiarella cordifolia

    Above: Foamflower thrives in pots or in-ground.
    Above: Foamflower creates frothy carpets of flowers in early spring.

    Foamflower blooms in early spring, creating frothy pockets of brightness in the garden. This species of Tiarella propagates itself, establishing new plants from skinny surface-runners, making it a perfect naturalizer for shady path edges and woodland floors. When not in bloom, its maple-shaped leaves create a softly textured quilt. This Eastern native is hardy from USDA zones 4 (and possibly 3) to 9.

    Doll’s eyes, Actaea pachypoda

    Above: The graceful flowers of doll’s eyes are deliciously-scented

    Perhaps one of the best-scented perennials for shade, doll’s eyes are also known as white baneberry, thanks to the plants’ Halloween-ready, toxic white fruit on blood-red stalks in late fall. But in spring, they are all sweetness, with lemon-scented white flowers. This woodland native relishes full shade and blooms in mid-spring above prettily toothed leaves. Doll’s eyes are hardy from zones 3 to 8.

    Wake robin, Trillium species

    Above: Woodland elegance—Trilliums in mid-spring.

    The understated elegance of native Trilliums belongs to a woodland spring. Planted under deciduous trees in soil rich in leaf humus or compost, they bask in spring sunshine and shelter in early summer shade. They are especially effective planted in groups with companion plants that fill out when the Trilliums are dormant, from summer onwards. Different species have blooms that may be white, yellow, or red, with erect or nodding flowers, and most are hardy within zones 4 to 7.

    Meadow rue, Thalictrum species

    Above: The white flowers of native tall meadow rue in a pot on my Brooklyn terrace.
    Above: Meadow rue (native to Asia) has purple flowers.

    [ad_2]

    Source link

  • The All-Star List: 5 Plants I Want More of In My Garden – Gardenista

    [ad_1]

    December is the month for year-end reviews. There’s already a deluge of best-of lists for books and movies, but what about plants? I think they deserve accolades, too.

    Below, I’ve come up with my personal list of plants that I want more of in my garden. These are five perennial plants that have have proven their mettle and fared well on my property. And because of their stellar performance, I’d like to welcome more of their kind into my garden. They have a few things in common. They are all flowers. They are all in the aster family (the largest plant family). They all do well in zone 7a. They tolerate the local clay soil conditions and while they love sun, they’re also content in part shade. They also support pollinators and put on a good show! What more can a gardener ask for?

    Without further ado…

    Sneezeweed

    Above: Photograph by Andrey Zharkikh via Flickr.

    Sneezeweed (Helenium autumnale) has yellow single-petaled flowers that bloom from August to October. A native with a wide North American range in zones 3 to 8, it supports pollinators, is deer-resistant, and can be happy in a rain garden. Mine got a bit too happy, since I forgot the planting adage “sleep, creep, leap.” The first year in the ground, the plant builds roots (sleeps), the second year it switches between roots to top growth (creeps), and the third year, it’s mainly top growth (leaps)! This was the plant’s third year in my yard, and it grew to over five feet—taller than me! Its common name comes from the dried flowers being used as snuff, which is odd, since the plant is toxic to humans. I will divide it in the spring and move it from the front to the back of the bed. (This plant is so self-reliant and fuss-free that it made my list of favorite Low-Maintenance Flowers that Thrive on Benign Neglect.)

    Monkshood

    Photograph by Joy Yagid.
    Photograph by Joy Yagid.

    Aconitum carmichaelii ‘Arendsii’ gets its common name from the flower’s unusually draping. It blooms from June through September (although mine lasted well into November this year) and can reach a height of four feet. There are native and nonnative varieties. The native variety, A. noveboracense, is on the federal threatened plant list. All the rest are non-native. (I have a non-native variety. Should native seeds be made available to the public, I would try to grow them.) They like full sun to part shade and damp but well-drained areas in zones 3 to 7. Things you need to know before considering this plant: all parts are highly toxic, and it should be grown where children and pets cannot access it. I have a fenced-in yard and no small children or pets. When I had kids, I removed the plant from my garden, but now that there are only adults in the house, I have brought it back. I will divide it and place it along the fence near my rain garden.

    New England and New York Asters

    Photograph by Joy Yagid.

    I have a hard time telling apart New England and New York asters (Symphyotrichum novae-angliae and Symphyotrichum novi-belgii). New England asters have thicker stems and purple-pink flowers that can grow to six feet tall; New York has thinner stems and purple flowers that grow to about four feet tall. Both are native to North America in zones 4 through 8, flower late summer into late fall, and last a long time, supporting migrating monarchs and many native bees. These are just fabulous plants—beautiful, pest- and disease-resistant, low-maintenance, and unfussy in a vast range of conditions. I plan to add these along the back fence in my backyard.

    Blue Stem Goldenrod

    Photograph by Joy Yagid.
    Photograph by Joy Yagid.

    Solidago caesia is such a happy plant, with sprays of golden yellow flowers on bluish stems. Unlike the other tall growers on my list, this one grows to just three feet tall and is perfect as a mid-bed plant. It’s a low-maintenance native plant that tolerates poor soil, shade, and benign neglect. It is also far more well behaved than its goldenrod cousins (looking at you Solidago canadensis) and pretty much stays where you plant it. Blue stem goldenrod blooms in fall and supports many pollinators. I’ll plant more of these near my New York and New England asters. Purple and yellow go great together.

    White Snakeroot

    Photograph by Joy Yagid.
    Photograph by Joy Yagid.

    Most people consider white snakeroot (Ageratina altissima) a weed. I don’t. Like blue stem goldenrod, it thrives on neglect. It begs you to ignore it; however, you do need to keep an eye on it. It loves to spread. Another aster family plant, this one has small clusters of white flowers in corymbs and can grow two to feet feet high. It blooms from July through November, giving overwintering insects one last chance to fill up before diapause. I currently have a few in my front yard, and they are striking against my blue house. I will divide them in the spring and add them to my rain garden and in the partial shade in the front beds.

    See also:

    (Visited 106 times, 101 visits today)

    [ad_2]

    Source link

  • The Beauty of Decay: 10 Perennials to Add Structure to a Winter Garden – Gardenista

    [ad_1]

    As gardens fade and the days darken, it’s tempting to forget about what’s going on outdoors until early spring when everything jolts back into life. But this is a missed opportunity. Careful plant choices can reap major benefits in the winter.

    It’s well known that certain trees and shrubs can play a leading role in the coldest season, but the right perennials and grasses also can look mesmerizing. By focusing on a plant’s structure and its ability to retain its shape, you can create schemes that look incredible in the fourth season. Read on to discover which plants will maximize this effect and learn to embrace the beauty of winter decay:

    Thistles

    Thistles in February. Photograph by Feathering the Nest via Flickr.
    Above: Thistles in February. Photograph by Feathering the Nest via Flickr.

    Spiky plants and thistles including teasel, echinops, and eryngiums tend to hold their structure brilliantly in the winter.

    Echinops

    Globe echinops. Photograph by Tobias Myrstrand Leander via Flickr.
    Above: Globe echinops. Photograph by Tobias Myrstrand Leander via Flickr.

    In winter, the stiff purple-blue heads of echinops turn brown and maintain their posture.

    Grasses

    Grasses and perennials in December at Torrey Pines Nature Reserve in La Jolla, California. Photograph by Anne Reeves via Flickr.
    Above: Grasses and perennials in December at Torrey Pines Nature Reserve in La Jolla, California. Photograph by Anne Reeves via Flickr.

    Play off these strong forms with billowing clumps of airy grasses such as Deschampsia cespitosa or Molinia caerulea which will fade to blond and buff colors over late autumn and early winter.

    [ad_2]

    Source link

  • Don’t Cut Your Garden Back! Leave Plants for the Birds to Eat in Winter

    [ad_1]


    Leaving Plants in the Garden for the Birds in Winter





























    Privacy & Cookies Policy

    [ad_2]

    Tara Nolan

    Source link

  • How to Grow Spotted Bee Balm From Seed

    [ad_1]


    How to Grow Spotted Bee Balm From Seed






























    Privacy & Cookies Policy

    [ad_2]

    Tara Nolan

    Source link

  • Blue Cardinal Flower: How to Grow Lobelia, a Native Perennial

    [ad_1]

    Lobelia siphilitica, Blue Cardinal Flower

    Blue cardinal flower, also known as great blue lobelia,  is a tall native perennial that blooms for long weeks at the end of summer. Like its striking cousin, the red cardinal flower, this lobelia relishes plenty of water and is happy growing in full-sun rain gardens, bogs, and damp meadows. But it will also grow successfully without supplemental water in semi-shaded flower borders if its roots remain cool and mulched. Blue cardinal flower brings vertical interest to the garden and is a vividly blue counterpoint to the colors of late summer and early autumn.

    Above: The spires of blue cardinal flower can grow up to four feet tall.
    Above: An illustration of blue cardinal flower from William Barton’s Vegetable Materia Medica of the United States (circa 1825).

    Lobelia siphilitica’s species name is derived from one of its many Native American uses as a treatment for syphilis (in conjunction with other toxic-slash-medicinal ingredients like cherry and May apple—don’t try this at home).

    Above: Blue cardinal flower with a late summer tangle of obedient plant, ageratum, and rudbeckia.
    Above: In the middle of a border, the tall spikes of blue cardinal flower hold their own with grasses and asters.
    Above: Blue cardinal flowers support a wide range of native bees and butterflies.

    Cheat Sheet

    • Blue cardinal flower is native to eastern North America.
    • It is a member of the bell flower (Campanulaceae) family.
    • The species name of siphilitica is derived from an historical use of the plant in the treatment of venereal diseases.
    • Bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds feed on the flowers’ nectar.
    • Lobelias produce a toxic compound called lobeline, which makes them less palatable to deer.
    Above: Blue cardinal flower appreciates afternoon shade where summers are hot.

    Keep It Alive

    • Blue cardinal flower is hardy from USDA growing zones 4 to 9.
    • Plant its seeds or seedlings in rich soil with plenty of organic matter.
    • It thrives in damp soil and wet edges of ponds, rain gardens, or streams.
    • Plant in full sun only in cooler climates.
    • Where summers are hotter, plant blue cardinal flowers where it will grow in afternoon shade.

    See also:

    (Visited 59 times, 59 visits today)

    [ad_2]

    Source link

  • A Professional Gardener’s Favorite Late-Blooming Perennials for Fall Butterflies

    [ad_1]


    10 Late-Blooming Perennial Flowers to Attract Butterflies in the Fall































    #simple-social-icons-2 ul li a, #simple-social-icons-2 ul li a:hover, #simple-social-icons-2 ul li a:focus { background-color: #d9472e !important; border-radius: 5px; color: #ffffff !important; border: 0px #ffffff solid !important; font-size: 17px; padding: 9px; } #simple-social-icons-2 ul li a:hover, #simple-social-icons-2 ul li a:focus { background-color: #ffffff !important; border-color: #ffffff !important; color: #d9472e !important; } #simple-social-icons-2 ul li a:focus { outline: 1px dotted #ffffff !important; }

    Privacy & Cookies Policy

    [ad_2]

    Jessica Walliser

    Source link

  • Color Theory: 10 Perfect Plant Combinations for Autumn – Gardenista

    [ad_1]

    “I don’t do frilly,” say Diane Schaub, director of gardens at Central Park Conservancy. We are standing under the shade of an old magnolia in the English garden, one of three smaller gardens within Central Park’s six-acre Conservatory Garden near the northeast corner of the park. Schaub, who earned a diploma from the New York Botanical Garden’s School of Professional Horticulture, has been curating the Conservatory Garden for more than 30 years. And while she does not do frilly, she does do color and texture, breathtakingly well. She has a painter’s eye for composition and an architect’s instinct for structural detail.

    Below, we share her best color combinations for fall garden beds:

    Photography by Marie Viljoen for Gardenista.

    Burgundy + Green

    Above: “This is as frilly as I go,” she clarifies, indicating a velvet-leafed plant with burgundy leaves, beside the bluestone path. The plant in question is a Solenostemon (formerly classified as Coleus) and the cultivar is ‘Lancelot.’
     Solenostemon
    Above: Solenostemon ‘Lancelot’ (paired with Salvia ‘Paul’) belongs to a crew of leafy annuals whose impact is felt dramatically in this garden, where the seasonal spectacle owes a great deal to plants whose interest lies in their foliage.

    Purple + Yellow + Blue

    If you thought leaves were boring, think again. Solenostemon
    Above: If you thought leaves were boring, think again. Solenostemon ‘Purple Prince’, black-leafed Dahlia ‘Mystic Illusion’, and Salvia farinacea ‘Victoria Blue.’

    Purple + Red

    Elephant-eared Colocasia esculenta
    Above: Elephant-eared Colocasia esculenta ‘Black Magic’, Solenostemon ‘Redhead’, and Agastache cana ‘Heather Queen.’

    Purple + Lilac

    A bed of Pennisetum setaceum 
    Above: A bed of Pennisetum setaceum ‘Rubrum’, Salvia x ‘Indigo Spires’, the leafy and lilac-striped Strobilanthes dyeranus, and elephant-eared Colocasia esculenta ‘Blue Hawaii’. The latter “makes the whole composition work,” says Schaub. Dark purple Pennisetum ‘Vertigo’ is in the background.
    The English Garden is arranged in beds radiating from a central pond overhung by the largest crabapple tree in Central Park, leaves now turning yellow. Designed by Betty Sprout and opened in 1937, this part of the park was by the 1970s considered one of the most dangerous places in New York City. In 1980, the Central Park Conservancy was formed in response to the neglect the park had suffered in the previous two decades. Its founding director, Elizabeth Rogers, earmarked the Conservatory Gardens for renovation.
    Above: The English Garden is arranged in beds radiating from a central pond overhung by the largest crabapple tree in Central Park, leaves now turning yellow. Designed by Betty Sprout and opened in 1937, this part of the park was by the 1970s considered one of the most dangerous places in New York City. In 1980, the Central Park Conservancy was formed in response to the neglect the park had suffered in the previous two decades. Its founding director, Elizabeth Rogers, earmarked the Conservatory Gardens for renovation.

    [ad_2]

    Source link

  • Invasive Plants to Avoid and the Native Alternatives You Should Grow Instead

    [ad_1]

    We’ve all done it: planted something we love only to learn, sometimes years later, that it is invasive where we live. In many cases, we can be forgiven. If a nursery is selling it, the message conveyed is that all is well. There are fewer excuses now, when home research has never been easier and when awareness of invasive species has never been higher. Despite that, invasive plants are still being sold by many growers, and the desire for some of them sometimes overrides our internal ethicist. This list of 13 invasive plants includes some well known and understandably appealing garden ornamentals. Do not plant them, and do remove them if you are currently harboring plants whose spread alters and harms local ecosystems. An invasive plant does not stay home—it travels:  by roots, runner, fruit, and seed.

    But what about…?

    Above: Japanese knotweed in bloom.

    First, a disclaimer: this list of invasive plants is by no means complete and does not include plants like mugwort, Japanese knotweed, and garlic mustard, since we’re assuming (fingers crossed) that their notoriety precedes them and that they are probably not ornamentally tempting. But, by all means, add plants you feel should be addressed, in the comments.

    Butterfly Bush

    Above: Butterfly bush attracts butterflies but outcompetes native plants that feed their larvae.

    One of the most tempting invasive plants is butterfly bush. It smells delicious, is pretty, blooms repeatedly, and is irresistible to butterflies. What’s not to love? Consider, then, that invasive Buddleja davidii excels at producing tens of thousands of lightweight, easily dispersed seeds per flowerhead, outcompeting native flowering shrubs whose leaves are essential food for butterfly larvae. While the nectar of butterfly bush attracts adult butterflies, this shrub is not a host plant for their caterpillars, which cannot feed on its foliage. Bear it mind that while newer, so-called less-fertile butterfly bush cultivars exist, they still produce seed, just less of it. Avoid.

    Plant native flowering shrubs, instead. Sweet pepperbush (Clethra alnifolia) is a good alternative to butterfly bush, with flowers, scent, and a lot of butterfly action in late summer.

    Japanese Honeysuckle

    Above: Japanese honeysuckle smells wonderful but smothers shrubs and trees.

    As appealing as its perfumed flowers may be, Lonicera japonica is now a serious botanical thug in wild places where it is not native. The scrambling vine uses shrubs and trees for support, creating dense, shaded thickets that alter the local ecosystem by smothering native seedlings. It is spread via its fruit, vexingly ripe during fall migration. Birds disperse the seed as they move south. Japanese honeysuckle also reproduces vegetatively, via above-ground runners and below-ground rhizomes.

    An alternative to Japanese honeysuckle is of course a native honeysuckle, Lonicera sempervirens (but no scent, sorry). It is very attractive to hummingbirds. For a scented alternative, try star jasmine, (Trachelospermum jasminoides) or bee-friendly yellow jessamine (Carolina jasmine—Gelsemiun sempervirens).

    Chinese and Japanese Wisteria

    Above: Chinese wisteria at the Brooklyn Botanic Garden.

    I admire the long panicles of Wisteria sinensis and W. floribunda dripping from pergolas in botanical gardens. And then I drive up the Palisades Parkway in New York and New Jersey and see the same vines cascading from the bent branches of oak, maple, and sycamore. It’s beautiful, but it’s deadly: the strong vines of this wisteria cut through bark and cause gradual death, by girdling. Their smothering habit also alters native forest ecologies. Wisteria spreads vegetatively, growing easily from cuttings and new shoots, and by seeds, which explode from their pods when ripe. Seeds also travel along waterways, to germinate downstream.

    [ad_2]

    Source link

  • Why Every Garden Needs a Red Hot Poker: The Ultimate Guide to Kniphofia

    [ad_1]


    Red Hot Poker Plant Care: A Complete Guide































    #simple-social-icons-2 ul li a, #simple-social-icons-2 ul li a:hover, #simple-social-icons-2 ul li a:focus { background-color: #d9472e !important; border-radius: 5px; color: #ffffff !important; border: 0px #ffffff solid !important; font-size: 17px; padding: 9px; } #simple-social-icons-2 ul li a:hover, #simple-social-icons-2 ul li a:focus { background-color: #ffffff !important; border-color: #ffffff !important; color: #d9472e !important; } #simple-social-icons-2 ul li a:focus { outline: 1px dotted #ffffff !important; }

    Privacy & Cookies Policy

    [ad_2]

    Jessica Walliser

    Source link

  • Downy Skullcap: How to Grow Scutellaria Incana, a Native North American Wildflower

    [ad_1]

    Downy Skullcap, Scutellaria incana

    The longer I garden, the more I want to grow perennials that bloom for as long as possible, and that ask for as little as possible in return. Within reason. While Agastache has long been at the top of my list of summer-to-fall-flowering, pollinator-supporting native perennials, a Scutellaria species is beginning to nip at its heels: Again and again I have seen the showy, blue, distinctively hooded flowers of downy skullcap—Scutellaria incana—standing tall in perennial borders and in wild planting that enjoy little regular maintenance. The plant is compelling.

    Here’s why.

    Photography by Marie Viljoen.

    Above: Downy skullcap flowering in a dry July in part shade in an unirrigated border.

    Also known commonly as hoary skullcap, Scutellaria incana is a native North American plant that checks the following boxes: It blooms for many weeks—even months—in late summer; it flowers in full sun as well as in shade; it attracts and supports pollinators and hummingbirds; it withstands periods of drought; and it is genuinely attractive, with myriad cerulean flowers.

    Above: Deadheading downy skullcap’s spent racemes of flowers encourages new growth and a new flush of blooms.

    Downy skullcap is a  tall perennial, averaging around three feet. It begins to flower in late summer, and continues to bloom for many weeks. If it is deadheaded, those weeks extend to months. It is very effective in meadows or wild-at-heart borders combined with bee balms and milkweed, rudbeckias, helianthus and helenium, echinacea, obedient plant, agastache, and goldenrod.

    Above: Downy skullcap is native to central and eastern US.

    Cheat Sheet

    • There are hundreds of species of Scutellaria, worldwide.
    • Downy skullcap is a wildflower native to the central and eastern United States.
    • Scutellaria belong to the Lamiaceae (mint) family.
    • The square stems of downy skullcap (Scutellaria incana) are finely hairy.
    • Several species of Scutellaria are valued for their use in Traditional Chinese Medicine, as well as Native American and other folk medicines.
    • While the flowers of downy skullcap are attractive to pollinators and hummingbirds, the bitter foliage is (usually!) deer-resistant.
    Above: The plant grows to about 3 feet tall.

    Keep It Alive

    • Downy skullcap is hardy from USDA zones 5 to 8.
    • Plant it in full sun, semi-shade, or high shade.
    • It is tolerant of a wide range of soils, except those that remain waterlogged.
    • Deadhead after its first flush of blooms to encourage fresh growth and second flush.

    See also:

    (Visited 65 times, 63 visits today)

    [ad_2]

    Source link

  • Grow These Perennials for Brilliant Fall-Blooming Flowers

    [ad_1]

    If you have always associated fall with the end of the growing season, you’ve got to give these fall-blooming flowers a try. Keep reading to learn about the fall blooms that will add pretty splashes of colour to your garden this year.

    Chrysanthemum flower

    I’m always amazed by the fall-blooming flowers in my garden that look so colourful well into autumn. These powerhouse plants have the colour to back up their efforts—they are as brilliant in hue as they are strong in stem.

    Fall-blooming flowers provide such a show in the garden for us gardeners, but also are an essential food source for our winged friends, bees, and other pollinators.

    Here are the fall-blooming flowers I’ll be talking about today!

    green-eyed susans thrive in sungreen-eyed susans thrive in sun
    Green-eyed susans are a fall-blooming flower.

    What Flowers Bloom in the Fall?

    I’ve always felt that fall gets a bit shortchanged. People always think of spring when they imagine colourful blooms, but fall has so much more than just muted shades of orange and brown to offer! With a little foresight, your garden will be bursting with colours this season. Here are some of my favourite flowers that bloom in the fall.

    Fall Asters (Asteraceae spp.)

    Asters are what many people first think of for fall-blooming flowers. They are a huge genus of plants that love full sun and shorter days for prolific blooming. In colder climates, they bloom well into October.

    Fall asters can range in height from small 1-foot-tall plants to huge 8-foot-tall monsters! Mostly, you will find a large 3ft spread that runs 3-4ft tall. Shop around for a variety and colour that works best in your garden for a lot of late-season blooms.

    Purple fall asters blooming in a fall gardenPurple fall asters blooming in a fall garden
    There are many different types of asters in a variety of colour palettes.

    Hardy Mums (Chrysanthemum morifolium)

    You know fall is on the way when the mums are out in front of every shop on the block! Hardy mums overwinter in Zones 5-9 and do well in containers (try planting them in a pumpkin) or in a garden bed.

    Their cheerful, bright flowers bloom and bloom and bring a kick of colour to the fall garden. Mums are available in practically every colour imaginable, and they make a lovely addition to any garden space.

    To get mums that have been in the garden all summer to produce more flowers in the fall, give them a good cut back in mid-to-late summer and watch them get their second wind. Deadhead flowers as they begin to fade, which will encourage more to appear.

    You can learn about how to care for mums and extend their life here!

    Lavender mumsLavender mums
    Mums are prolific bloomers, making them popular choices for containers.

    Purple Coneflower (Echinacea purpurea)

    Purple coneflower has big, dramatic, purple petals and a large orange center cone. It will begin flowering in June in zones 4-8 and will continue right up until the first frost hits.

    After the temperatures drop and purple coneflowers stop producing flowers, the seed heads are very ornamental, and they provide food for local birds to munch on all winter long.

    They may be considered a summer bloomer, but if you prune echinacea in the summer, then you will have blooms into fall.

    echinacea blooming in the garden in the fallechinacea blooming in the garden in the fall
    Deadhead echinacea blooms in the summer to keep them blooming into the fall.

    Sedum ‘Autumn Joy’

    These stunning, sculptural plants will begin to bloom in late summer and continue on well into autumn, as their name suggests. They are hardy and drought-resistant, which is a blessing during the hot, dry days of late summer.

    Their foliage is pretty by itself and can be green, burgundy, variegated, or even black. The large clustered flower heads begin green, then turn to pink, and then to a stunning shade of deep red. Harvest the flowers and dry them for a beautiful and lasting dried arrangement.

    Sedum 'Autumn Joy' Sedum 'Autumn Joy'
    Sedum are also drought tolerant.

    Sneezeweed (Helenium autumnale)

    I know, I know, “sneezeweed” doesn’t exactly sound like something you want in your garden, but don’t let the name put you off—this plant actually produces gorgeous fall flowers in variegated hues of red, orange, and yellow. And, no, they don’t make you sneeze, either.

    Give them full sun, and these fall-blooming flowers will grow large and yield a ton of beautiful blossoms.

    Bee flying away from fall-blooming flowers, sneezeweedBee flying away from fall-blooming flowers, sneezeweed
    Sneezeweed is known for being a late bloomer, providing plenty of golden hues.

    Black-Eyed Susans (Rudbeckia hirta)

    These old garden favourites start flowering in the summer and continue well into fall. Black-eyed Susans grow about 18-24” tall and can even become shrub-shaped when thriving. Their golden yellow petals and black or dark brown center cones lend a beautiful contrast to the fall garden.

    These flowers require minimal care, making them an easy choice for both beginner and more seasoned gardeners alike. To extend their blooming and increase blooms, deadhead the flowers.

    Black-eyed susansBlack-eyed susans
    Black-eyed susans are hardy perennials.

    Speedwell (Veronica)

    Speedwell’s vibrant flower spikes are most commonly a beautiful shade of blue-ish purple, but there are also pink and white varieties. Speedwell likes well-draining soil and will bloom prolifically until the first frost of the season hits. Keep the flowers blooming longer by pinching off any wilted blooms.

    It’s worth noting that the Veronica species of Speedwell is edible. It can be used in tea to help alleviate allergies and asthma. The dried flowers can also be added to a lotion or balm to help soothe coughing.

    SpeedwellSpeedwell
    Veronica comes in many hues of purple to indigo.

    Honourable Mention: Coral Bells (Heuchera)

    Fall-blooming flowers aren’t the only thing you can plant to liven up the autumn garden. Coral bells’ decorative foliage in hues of red, green, purple, pink, yellow, and orange changes colour and gets more intense as the temperature cools.

    If you are lucky enough to live in zones 5-9, you can enjoy Heuchera all year long. Plant in sun or shade and enjoy the show!

    Colorful Heuchera blooming in a fall container gardenColorful Heuchera blooming in a fall container garden
    Plant coral bells in your containers as well!

    As you can see, the end of summer doesn’t mean the end of your beautiful garden! Don’t let spring have all the fun this year. Fill your beds with these hardy fall-blooming flowers and give your garden a second wind.  You won’t regret it.

    More Tips for Fall Gardening

    [ad_2]

    Stephanie Rose

    Source link