Tag: Palm trees

Whether you are growing cold-hardy palms or tropical types, whenever the temperature drops below their tolerance, you’ll need to provide some protection.

Winterizing doesn’t have to take much effort, and it can make all the difference in the health of your plants. So, to help you with the process, we’re going to discuss the following in this guide:

True palms – plants in the Arecaceae family – vary widely in what kind of temperatures they can tolerate.

For example, needle palms (Rhapidophyllum hystrix) are hardy to -20°F, or Zone 5. Some Raphia species can’t handle anything lower than Zone 10.

You don’t need to worry about protecting your palm until the temperature is near the low that it can tolerate.

It’s actually healthy for them to be exposed to some cold, so you don’t want to start preparing for winter too soon.

We want them to experience some cold because it signals to the plant to slow growth and go dormant or partially dormant during the winter.

Also, be sure to feed your palms as recommended for the species during the growing season. A plant that lacks nutrients is less able to survive cold weather than those that are healthy and robust.

But it’s important not to fertilize right before the cold weather because you don’t want to encourage them to put out more growth when they should be going to sleep.

By the way, palms aren’t true trees, but we’ll continue to refer to them as such.

They might look and act like trees, but the vascular system isn’t like a traditional tree at all, it resembles that of ornamental grass. They don’t have bark or a cambium layer.

Palms are technically monocots – plants with seeds that contain one embryonic leaf, while trees are dicots – plants with seeds that contain two embryonic leaves.

You can learn more about palms and how to grow them in our guide.

So, with that out of the way, let’s get into how to winterize these plants. First, we’ll talk about how to care for potted plants.

Potted Plants

Are you growing your palms in pots? Great! You don’t have to do nearly as much to prepare potted plants for winter as you do with in-ground specimens.

Wheel or (yikes!) carry the pot inside and put it in a warm spot that receives as much or slightly less sun exposure as the tree was receiving outside.

You should do this gradually over the course of a week to reduce the chances that the plant will drop its fronds.

Think of it a bit like reverse hardening off – take the plant indoors for an hour or two and then move it back outside. The next day, double the indoor time. Continue for up to a week.

When you have the plant in place, over the winter months give it about half the water it was receiving outside.

Depending on the species, that might mean letting it dry out completely for a few days before you water again.

Don’t fertilize while the plant is indoors.

When temperatures are consistently above the lowest that your particular species can handle, you can move the plant back outdoors. And don’t forget to do this gradually!

As an alternative, if you want to force a potted plant into dormancy, you can move it into an unheated garage or basement once the weather turns cold.

You want a spot that won’t drop below freezing but will remain between 40 and 60°F. You want a good amount of bright, indirect light, but it shouldn’t be in direct light.

The goal is to stop growth while keeping the palm warm enough to survive the winter.

Allow the soil to dry out completely between watering.

When the temperatures climb back up into the right range, harden the palm off for a week or two and move it back outside.

Either method works perfectly well for hardy palms, though most tender types do better inside the home or in a greenhouse rather than an unheated garage, simply because they don’t have the same dormancy period of hardier species.

Winterize in Place

When you fall in love with a plant that isn’t quite hardy to your growing Zone, some gardeners opt to do what is known as “Zone pushing.”

This refers to growing a plant that isn’t suitable for your Zone and providing protection during the winter months.

Palms are a popular choice for zone pushing. You may be growing a species that’s hardy to just one Zone above your region or perhaps more.

For all plants, add a thick three- to six-inch layer of mulch to protect the roots. Straw, leaf litter, or shredded bark are good options.

Whole leaves from deciduous trees make excellent mulch because they release heat as they break down.

When the roots are protected and kept warm, the palm can continue to absorb moisture and nutrients as needed and can regenerate should some part of the crown be damaged.

In addition to protecting the roots with mulch, you’ll need to cover the plant. After you have applied your mulch, tie up the fronds loosely with twine or thin rope.

If you don’t want to tie up the leaves, either because they’re prone to breakage or they aren’t long enough, you’ll need to construct a frame around the plant to drape the cover over. This can be as simple as stiff wire or a custom wood frame.

Take some frost cloth or burlap and starting at the base, wrap the plant or frame from bottom to top. No part of the plant should be exposed. If it is, that area of the specimen may experience cold damage. Secure the cloth in place using twine or rope.

That should be enough if your plant is just one Zone outside of its recommended hardiness Zone. Each layer of burlap or cloth that you use can provide about 2°F of warmth.

If you are growing your palm two or more Zones away from its hardiness rating, wrap chicken wire around the burlap and train incandescent Christmas lights up the wire.

You want the strands of lights separated by four to six inches of space. If you’re using an extension cord, make sure it’s rated for outdoor use, and avoid using LED lights as these don’t put off any heat.

It’s important not to allow the lights to come into contact with the tree as the heat can damage the fronds.

When the lights are in place, tent or wrap foil insulation or bubble wrap around the plant and cover it with a tarp.

You don’t need to leave the lights on all the time. They can be turned off during the day or whenever the temperature is above 15 degrees below the tolerance range for your particular species.

Whenever temperatures drop below that 15-degree mark, go ahead and turn on the lights.

If the weather warms up a bit during the winter, remove the outer layers surrounding the lights.

The insulation and tarp can trap moisture inside the tent, which can promote rot or fungal issues.

When the weather starts to warm up, gradually remove the protection. First, remove the tarp and insulation and leave it like that for a few days. Then, remove the burlap.

Finally, remove the mulch gradually over the course of a week.

Cold Damage

In spite of your best efforts, it’s still possible that your palm ends up suffering from some cold damage.

The result is leaf discoloration, with the foliage turning black, brown, or yellow. There might also be spots of necrosis. Red blotches, bleached leaf tips, wilting, and dropping fronds might also occur.

The trunks can also show symptoms of cold damage, including sunken reddish areas, cracking, necrotic spots, and decay where fungi and bacteria invade the damaged tissue.

When the trunk is damaged, in most cases the tree will eventually die – like those of my neighbor.

Don’t remove any of the damaged fronds until the threat of cold weather has passed. Once it’s safe, pull out each dead leaf.

They should come out readily. Trim off any damaged areas but leaves that haven’t died entirely can remain in place.

Our guide to growing palm trees has all you need to know to enjoy the tallest varieties in your outdoor living space.

This article discusses how to fertilize palms for the healthiest plants.

Here’s what we’ll cover:

First let’s talk about these plants and the environment in which they grow.

Cultural Requirements

True palms, plants in the Arecaceae family, are more closely related to grasses than to trees. Instead of wood, they have tear-resistant fibers that bend without breaking.

Such resistance is essential, as their roots are shallow; without it, they would be vulnerable to uprooting in the windy tropical storms of their native lands.

Unlike branched trees, plants in this family have one apical meristem or growing point from which all foliage, flowers, and fruits emerge.

Single-stemmed species are likely to suffer more extensive, visible, and potentially fatal damage from a nutrient deficiency than branched types.

As landscape specimens, true palms prefer full sun to part shade.

The ideal soil is loose, sandy loam with a slightly acidic to neutral pH of 5.5 to 7.5, that drains well. Unfortunately, many sandy seaside locales lack essential soil nutrients.

Essential Nutrients

Nutrients crucial to successful palm cultivation include the “big three” macronutrients nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), and potassium (K), as well as the micronutrients boron (B), iron (Fe), manganese (Mn), and magnesium (Mg).

Arecaceae species don’t require a lot of boron, but without it, the leaves may appear stunted and irregular, the stems may exhibit growth anomalies, and buds may die.

The addition of boron in small quantities improves symptoms.

High alkalinity, planting too deeply, and soil compaction may all contribute to iron deficiency. Symptoms include chlorosis (leaf yellowing), browning of the leaf tips, and reduced leaf size.

Foliar applications of a chelated (bonded for stability) iron fertilizer help restore health and alleviate symptoms, but it is important to address the soil pH and compaction as well.

The most likely nutritional deficiency in potted specimens is nitrogen. Common in nutrient-poor sandy soil, it causes pale green foliage and stunted growth.

A slow-release nitrogen product should restore color.

Magnesium, manganese, and potassium deficiencies are common in palms growing in the landscape.

When lacking in magnesium, the oldest leaves display yellow edges with green centers. If the plants are also potassium deficient, the leaf tips turn brown.

Applying magnesium sulfite and potassium will not restore affected foliage but may prevent new symptoms. For growing environments with overly acidic soil, amending with limestone may result in improvement.

Excess phosphorus, high alkalinity, inadequate drainage, and poor sandy soil can cause manganese deficiency serious enough to kill a plant.

Symptoms of lack of manganese include yellowing between the leaf veins and new foliage emerging discolored and with abnormal, stunted growth.

Increasing soil acidity and applying manganese sulfate may resolve the issue.

Achieving Optimal Nutrition

According to the experts at Clemson University, regular fertilization with a product formulated specifically for Arecaceae species is the best way to support optimal nutrition and avoid disfiguring and potentially lethal nutrient deficiencies.

They recommend four applications during the spring to fall growing season, based on a University of Florida study, which determined that a product with an N-P-K ratio of 8-2-12 with four percent magnesium and added micronutrients, in a slow-release granular form, helps treat and prevent essential nutrient deficiency.

It’s always a good idea to conduct a soil test to find out if there are any specific deficiencies in your landscape.

You can do this through your local agricultural extension office or with a home test kit. When you have the results of your soil test you can amend accordingly.

How to Fertilize

After recognizing the need to fertilize and the composition of nutrients to apply, it’s time for one last essential point – how to apply a product.

Be sure to read all package instructions of the product you have chosen. Foliar spray applications for large trees are best left to a professional.

For slow-release granular formulations:

Clear an 18- to 24-inch ring of ground around your shrub or tree. This area is the root zone.

Turf and weeds should be removed from the root zone, and nothing should touch the stem or stems of your palm.

In addition to inhibiting drainage, grass and weeds may harbor pests and disease and expose the stems to turf and weed treatment chemicals.

Moisten the root zone. Sprinkle the granular product onto the soil in the root zone, but don’t allow it to touch the stems. Water well after application.

Syragrus romanzoffiana also has a moderate tolerance of drought and salt spray, making the tree more than just a pretty face.

And just like the queen piece in chess, the queen palm is a very powerful asset to the tropical landscape.

Our guide to growing palm trees has all the details about other members of the Arecaceae family. In this article we’ll zero in on how to care for queen palms.

Here’s what we’ll be discussing:

What Are Queen Palms?

The queen palm – aka Syragrus romanzoffiana – is a member of the Arecaceae family, alongside related plants such as parlor, fishtail, and lady palms.

The queen palm has had quite a few botanical name changes over the years.

First scientifically described in a French publication as Cocos romanzoffiana in 1822, the queen palm was also dubbed Cocos plumosa by England’s Loddiges nursery around 1825.

When a queen palm seedling found it’s way from the Loddiges nursery to England’s Kew gardens in 1840, Kew botanists thought that it was Cocos coronata instead.

But when the specimen reached maturity and produced fruit, the garden’s director Joseph Dalton Hooker officially published the botanical name as C. plumosa in 1860.

Destined to become a popular ornamental, queen palms were sold under the C. plumosa name well into the 2000s.

However, there was still nomenclature disagreements among big-brained plantspeople.

By 1912, C. plumosa had been reduced to C. romanzoffiana var. plumosa by the German Botanist Alwin Berger. Later, the Italian botanist Odoardo Beccari designated it as one of many varieties of Arecastrum romanzoffianum.

It wasn’t until 1968 that queen palms were officially designated Syragus romanzoffianum. To this day, there’s still confusion in the trade… but now you know the true truth!

Originating from the tropics and subtropics of South America, the queen palm has also been introduced in the United States – California and Florida in particular.

In the Sunshine State, the University of Florida has assessed the plant’s potential invasiveness and slapped it with a “Caution” warning, urging growers to manage S. romanzoffiana so that it doesn’t escape from its intended planting sites.

With a USDA Hardiness Zone range of 9 to 11, S. romanzoffiana is actually pretty hardy for a tropical plant, as it can survive in temperatures as low as 25^oF without taking damage from the cold.

These trees reach mature heights of 30 to 50 feet, with spreads of about half that. S. romanzoffiana sports a narrow gray trunk that’s one to two feet wide, ringed with leaf scars.

In typical palm tree fashion, the trunk doesn’t significantly increase its girth like those of true trees – it only grows upwards.

At the top of the trunk is a crown of feathery green fronds, which tend to droop with age.

On full-size specimens, each frond can grow up to 15 feet long, while each individual leaflet can measure three feet in length!

In spring to summer, queen palms will bloom with large, long-stemmed clusters of pale yellow to white flowers.

After pollination, the blooms will give way to brownish-orange fruits that turn bright orange when ripe. These tend to drop and collect en masse at the base of trees.

Queen Palm Propagation

While it’s possible to grow these plants from seed, it’s a very slow process. You’re better off purchasing a plant from a nursery for transplanting.

But if you do fancy a seed-starting project, here are the details:

From Seed

Growing this species from seed can be a bit frustrating, as it takes six weeks to six months before germination occurs.

You’ll also need to keep the sown seeds at high temperatures the entire time, whether in a greenhouse or a natural environment that’s consistently hot.

In contrast to most palm seeds, S. romanzoffiana seeds actually germinate better when they’re taken from unripe green fruits, rather than half-ripe or fully ripe ones.

But if you lack a bucket truck or monkey-like climbing skills, then collecting seeds from freshly fallen fruits works, too. You can even avoid all that work and buy some seeds from a reputable vendor instead.

To collect your own seeds, gather the fallen fruits, remove their fleshy pulp, and soak the seeds in water for two days. Change the water each day, and allow them to air-dry for a day or so after soaking.

Once they’re soaked, dried, and ready to go, fill four-inch containers with a half-and-half mix of moisture-retaining and well-draining ingredients, such as peat moss and perlite.

Then, sow your seeds just below the media’s surface – one per container, ideally.

Since germination can be so erratic, you’ll need to prep and sow several seeds in a bunch of containers.

Place your containers somewhere they receive full sun exposure, in an environment that’s consistently kept at temperatures of 90 to 95^oF.

Moisten the growing media, and keep it moist as seeds germinate and seedlings appear.

Once the seeds germinate and one to two leaves have formed, you can start hardening them off in preparation for planting outside.

This means leaving the seedlings out in their eventual environment for a half to a full hour, then adding 30 to 60 minutes of exposure each successive day. After they’re hardened off, they are ready for transplanting!

Transplanting

Whether you have started your own seedlings or purchased a plant at the nursery, before you transplant, you should select and prepare the appropriate planting sites.

Choose spots in the garden with sandy to sandy loam soil and a pH of 6.0 to 6.5, with full sun to partial shade exposure.

Space your planting sites as far apart as you expect your plants to spread once they’re mature. Or simply space them 12 feet apart, if you want to keep them more contained.

Alternatively, you can grow your queen palm in a pot which will naturally restrict how large the specimen will become. Prepare the pot with a half and half mixture of peat moss and perlite or use a palm-specific potting mix.

Dig holes about the same depth and a little bit wider than the root systems of the plants. The holes should be approximately the same size as the container the plant is currently growing in.

Carefully remove the plant from its container, lower it into the hole before backfilling with soil. Water in well, and add more soil if it settles.

How to Grow Queen Palms

A plant such as the queen palm deserves nothing less than the royal treatment. Here’s how to provide it:

Climate and Exposure Needs

As mentioned earlier, S. romanzoffiana needs to be in USDA Zones 9 to 11 if it’s to survive for the long term.

Temperatures consistently below 25^oF will damage the fronds, although the plant has been known to bounce back after brief exposure to temperatures in the mid-teens.

Hot and humid is best, though.

Full sun is ideal, although a bit of shade is also acceptable.

Soil Needs

The optimal soil for a queen palm is either sand or a sandy loam. Ideally with a slightly acidic pH of 6.0 to 6.5, as alkaline soils can cause severe nutritional deficiencies.

If you go with either of those sandy textures, then the “well-draining” requirement is taken care of by default. These plants absolutely must have well-draining soil.

Water and Fertilizer Needs

Pruning and Maintenance

One aspect of S. romanzoffiana that’s a bit of a bummer: they don’t self-clean, which means dead fronds will stay up on a tree for a while if they aren’t pruned away.

Dead, diseased, and damaged fronds should all be promptly pruned, whether via a ladder, a bucket truck, and/or a long pole saw.

You can also remove the floral inflorescences before they set seed, if you’re not a fan of copious amounts of fruit falling to the ground and making a mess.

A two- to four-inch layer of mulch, when applied several inches away from the trunk, can do wonders for moisture retention and help protect the roots during cold spells.

Should any fallen seeds germinate and grow volunteer plants, you’ll want to pull those quickly.

If you’re growing your queen palm in a container, the plant will need repotting every couple of years as it becomes root bound.

For logistical purposes, you might want to cap your maximum container size at 15 gallons to prevent the plant from becoming too large and unruly.

Since you’re dealing with super tall plants, you may need some vertical assistance when you apply any controls.

Pests

There are a number of pests that can target palms, including S. romanzoffiana.

Palm Leaf Skeletonizer

What a cool, intimidating name – kinda like “Skeletor” or “Dr. Doom.”

Homaledra sabalella, the palm leaf skeletonizer, is a potent threat. After emerging from eggs laid on the plant, the translucent, brown-headed caterpillars construct silky, frass-flecked tubes, which combine into large silk mats that cover the upper and lower surfaces of the foliage.

In large groups, the caterpillars really go to town, quickly consuming leaf tissue until all that remains are leafy “skeletons” of limply-hanging veins and midribs.

As you can imagine, photosynthesis is reduced, while the plant’s health and aesthetics quickly suffer.

Insecticides aren’t effective against these pests, as they often can’t get through the silk.

Predatory insects such as tachinid flies and parasitic wasps can provide mild control, while high-velocity sprays of water from the garden hose can physically knock the pests from infested areas.

Scale Insects

Belonging to the Coccoidea superfamily, scale insects are the round, flattened bugs that congregate in conspicuous masses on plants like fish or reptile scales, or perhaps a dermatologist’s nightmare.

Whether soft-bodied or armored, these pests extract sap from leaves with their piercing-sucking mouthparts, which can weaken and stunt growth, and cause yellow leaves.

Spider Mites

These arachnids are tough to see with the naked eye, but you may notice their webs.

In a similar fashion to scale insects, spider mites extract sap from leaves like juice from a juice box.

Fusarium Wilt

A gnarly disease, Fusarium wilt is caused by the fungus Fusarium oxysporum f. sp. Palmarum (say that five times fast!), which can stay dormant in soil for many years.

Spreading via spores, the pathogen clogs up the water-conducting xylems of infected plants.

Symptoms start in the petioles of old leaves first, leaving a single side of infected fronds with leaflets that are functionally dead, yet held up in their petrified place like they were taxidermied.

Eventually, the entire frond dies, and the symptoms spread to younger and younger leaves until the entire crown perishes.

There is no known cure for Fusarium wilt. All you can do is prevent its spread, by swiftly removing infected plants, and avoid planting new palms in infected soils.

Removed specimens and their detritus should be burned or buried.

Ganoderma Butt Rot

I’ll try to keep this brief – I’m writing this bit in a quiet library, and I can only type “butt rot” so many times before I start to giggle.

Caused by the fungus Ganoderma zonatum, ganoderma butt rot is usually confined to the bottom three to four feet of a palm’s trunk, hence the name. This disease causes the inside of the trunk to decay, leaving it discolored with a gnarly brown stain.

By the time the tree shows decline and symptoms of wilting, 85 percent of the trunk will be destroyed.

Before the plant dies, fruiting bodies – or conks – can form on the lower part of the trunk and produce billions of dusty, reddish-brown spores that spread the disease far and wide.

Unfortunately, it’s tough to diagnose butt rot until a palm dies or develops the conks, so my advice is purely reactionary.

If your tree comes down with ganoderma butt rot, completely remove it and grind down the stump – you don’t want conks to grow on a dead, yet intact stump!

You’ll also want to avoid planting a palm in the same infected spot, lest you deal with this affliction once again.

Best Uses for Queen Palms

As any royalty knows, where you place the throne is important. And this queen doesn’t mind sharing the throne – S. romanzoffiana looks fantastic when grown in a group as well as solo.

When planning your queen palm placement, consider planting them near curbsides, or perhaps on median strips in the road.

Maybe even an island in the cul-de-sac, if you’ve got that kind of pull with your HOA. Just make sure you clear up the fallen fruits at season’s end!

There are many different varieties for locations ranging from full sun exposure to full shade with moderately moist, sandy loam that drains well.

Heights measure two to 200 feet with a spread of up to 40 feet, offering gardeners a wealth of landscaping options.

In our guide to growing and caring for palm trees, we provide all you need to know to maintain these plants in your landscape.

This article discusses the top reasons why fronds may fray or shed and how to address them.

Here’s what we’ll cover:

Let’s start our discussion with how these plants grow naturally.

Some species, like the cabbage, Sabal palmetto, Christmas aka Manila, Adonidia merrillii, and foxtail, Wodyetia bifurcata, are self-shedding, otherwise known as self-cleaning.

These types drop their dead foliage, a boon to gardeners who might otherwise have to climb a ladder and use a saw to remove it.

It’s normal to see a “skirt” of dead fronds before they begin to drop off of their own accord.

If your palm is dropping fronds and is not a self-shedding variety, the cause may be one of the reasons we’ll discuss below.

Another characteristic you may observe is “reins.”

These are thread-like filaments protruding from the sides and/or tips of the leaf blades that create a frayed appearance as they separate from the leaves, dry, and turn brown.

Reins are residual plant tissue that edged the leaves before they opened.

Cabbage, California, Washingtonia filifera, and Christmas types exhibit this benign characteristic, and many growers make practical use of the filaments, pinching them off and twisting them into a sturdy twine.

Fraying of this nature is a harmless natural trait, but other leaf tip and edge anomalies may be of concern, as we’ll discuss.

Disease

Three diseases that cause leaf abnormalities in these plants are:

• Fusarium Wilt
• Ganoderma Root and Butt Rot
• Leaf Spot

These are fungal conditions that cause leaf discoloration, wilting, withering, and dropping.

Consider disease-induced decline if you see these symptoms in species that are not known to be self-shedding.

A classic symptom of Fusarium wilt is brown, withered foliage on one side of the main vertical leaf vein or pinnae.

The disease is incurable and affected plants should be removed and disposed of.

Ganoderma root and butt rot is also incurable and results in plant death. Symptoms include leaves that fail to open, foliage turning yellow or brown and withering.

Tell-tale signs of leaf spot are dark, water-soaked lesions that develop halos in black, brown, gray, and/or yellow. Treatment with copper fungicide spray may be effective.

If your palms are of substantial size, consult an arborist to assess their health, diagnose diseases, and treat when appropriate.

Herbicide Absorption

Leaf anomalies can result when the plant absorbs herbicides applied to turf, either through the soil or foliage.

Products derived from phenoxyacetic acid and those that contain metsulfuron-methyl may cause leaves to twist, turn yellow, and dry out.

If you have to apply herbicides anywhere in your landscape, protect the leaves and stems of your palms to prevent absorption and physiological damage.

Moisture Stress

Over- or under-watered flora can suffer from moisture stress that may cause symptoms like leaf yellowing, browning, and shedding. Improper watering increases susceptibility to pests and pathogens and may lead to root rot, another cause of foliar decline.

New transplants require consistent moisture while they are becoming established over the first one to six months, depending on the size and species.

After that, water when the top three inches of soil are dry. Ensure that your plants are growing in well-draining soil.

An evaluation of your watering practices should help you determine if the fraying and shedding may be due to moisture stress.

Consider installing a drip irrigation system for controlled moisture delivery.

Nutrient Deficiency

Another reason for leaf irregularities is a lack or imbalance of essential nutrients, including potassium, manganese, magnesium, and nitrogen.

There are numerous causes of nutrient deficiency, including:

• Soil pH
• Herbicides
• Planting Depth
• Soil Quality

Let’s discuss each of these.

Soil pH

The appropriate soil pH for growing palms is 5.5 to 7.5 – slightly acidic to barely alkaline.

High pH levels (alkaline soil) causes the required nutrients to be less available to the plant, leading to growth abnormalities, leaf discoloration, and leaf death.

Conduct a soil test to determine the pH in your growing area and amend as needed.

Growing in soil with the appropriate pH helps to prevent nutrient deficiencies that adversely affect foliage.

Herbicides

The presence of herbicides in the soil can inhibit the uptake of nutrients or render them toxic when absorbed. Avoid using turf grass weed killer in proximity to palms.

Planting Depth

When planting, it’s crucial to set the crown of the plant one inch above ground level. Planting too deeply not only increases the risk of the roots rotting, it can impair nutrient uptake.

Soil Quality

The ideal soil for palms is loose, sandy loam that drains well. Compacted soil is oxygen-deficient, poorly draining, and detrimental to root development and nutrient absorption.

A soil test is helpful to determine the amendments needed to provide balanced nutrition in sufficient quantities.

Pests

Aphids, mealybugs, and scale are most likely to feed on weak plants. If an infestation goes unchecked, these aggressive sapsuckers disfigure and desiccate foliage.

Treatments include a firm spray with the hose to dislodge visible insects and applications of insecticidal soap or horticultural neem oil to reduce populations.

It is challenging to monitor some of the larger species for pests, and insects like the devastating South American palm weevil, a voracious beetle, can destroy a tree in months.

You may need an arborist with an aerial lift to examine and treat the canopy with a high-pressure hose.

When pest-free, palms are less likely to suffer foliar loss.

Weather

Palms that endure unseasonably cold or hot weather, strong winds, or a lightning strike are likely to suffer damage like fraying or shedding.

Proactive mitigation measures include supplemental water during a drought, frost cloth wraps for sudden cold snaps, and the somewhat controversial practice of pruning green fronds prior to a hurricane to minimize wind damage.

Those opposed to the practice suggest that the risk of nutrient deprivation and pest and pathogen vulnerability associated with the cutting of green fronds outweigh the potential benefit of a reduced canopy for better wind resistance.

Let the conventional wisdom of your region be your guide.

After an extreme weather event, use sanitized saws and pruners to cleanly sever damaged fronds and dispose of all leaf litter to inhibit a proliferation of pests and pathogens.

All fan palms love warm weather and W. robusta is no different. This species is eager to grow and is capable of putting on four feet of growth in a single year.

You can learn more about how to grow fan palms in our guide.

If you live somewhere with ample sun and minimal cold weather, read on to find out more about growing your own Mexican fan palm.

And for those of you with a brightly lit corner indoors, never fear! You can take a crack at growing this beautiful specimen inside as well.

Here’s what we’ll cover:

Cultivation and History

Native to the Sonoran desert and Baja, Mexico, this drought-resistant palm can grow to 100 feet tall.

The crown bears a dense cluster of glossy, green leaves, each about five feet wide and shaped, as the name suggests, like a pleated fan.

The foliage is arranged in a tuft at the top of a tall, unbranched trunk, making it look like a giant upside down mop. It’s this somewhat comical appearance that gave it its common name, “skyduster.”

The genus name, Washingtonia, is a dedication to General George Washington. Dr. H Wendland, a prominent botanist in the late 1800s, bestowed this name on the genus and had to fight to hold onto it.

The famous moniker was in high demand and the group of trees known as sequoias almost laid claim to it.

Mexican fan palm is cultivated in the warm soils of Australia, Hawaii, the Middle East and beyond. It’s easy to grow, drought tolerant once established, and reliably bears clusters of attractive, dark colored fruit.

Hardy in USDA Zones 9 to 11, this species can tolerate temperatures down to 20° F, but not for extended periods. Persistent cold weather, especially cold wet weather, will damage foliage and invite disease.

In its native habitat, Mexican fan palm provides nesting and shelter sites for birds, mammals, and insects.

Outside of its endemic range, W. robusta is listed as an invasive species in some places, such as California.

The California Invasive Plant Council has also labeled this tree a fire hazard, due to its tendency to accumulate dead, dry fronds along its trunk.

A popular houseplant gracing the well-lit confines of many an office, waiting room and home, Mexican fan palm does well indoors too.

Although it hails from the enviably sun-drenched coast of Mexico, it’s a tough cookie, and can manage conditions inside, too.

So you see, you’ve got options. Read on to learn how to start growing now.

Mexican Fan Palm Propagation

Like all true palms, W. robusta is grouped into a category of plants called “monocots.”

Monocots have parallel leaf veins, only one seed leaf instead of two, and produce flowers with petals in multiples of three.

This category of plants by and large do not grow lateral stems – they only grow upwards. For this reason, they won’t grow from cuttings.

To propagate W. robusta, you’ll have to start from seed or purchase a transplant.

From Seed

Fortunately, W. robusta is pretty easy to start from seed. If you’re a novice germinator, this species is a fun and rewarding one to try.

Seeds can be purchased online or harvested straight from the tree once fruits turn dark purple to black, indicating ripeness.

Try to remove all pulp from around the seed before you sow. Scrape off the fruit with your fingernails or the rough side with a sponge. This cleaning process helps keep unwanted fungal spores out of the planting substrate.

Once they are clean, soak the seeds in warm water for two to three days. This will help soften the seed coat and speed up germination. Change the water every day.

The cup containing the seeds should be placed on a heat mat or in bright sun to maintain a lukewarm water temperature. You don’t have to be too precise, just make sure it’s comfortably warm to the touch.

Sow seeds just below the surface of the soil in freely draining potting soil in four-inch pots. This species needs a little light to germinate, so make sure to not cover the seeds too deeply.

Once your plants have produced true leaves, pot them into larger containers and slow down the watering a little bit. Getting to this stage will take a few weeks.

Generally speaking, you want young plants to be in containers that are just large enough to give them a little extra room to grow. Potting your young palms into individual four-inch pots at this stage will suffice.

At this point, you can let the surface of the soil dry out a little before watering again.

You can learn more about how to start palms from seed in our growing guide.

Transplanting

If you’re transplanting the babies you grew from seed, make sure they have at least two true leaves before moving them.

True leaves will resemble the mature plant’s leaves, but be a bit smaller. If you’re planning to grow your plants outside, expose your babies to the sun and wind gradually, increasing their exposure each day by hour long increments.

The same goes for any plant you purchased at a nursery. Make sure it is properly hardened off before planting outside.

In the garden, choose a spot in full sun with freely draining soil. This species likes relatively neutral soil, so keep the pH level somewhere around 6.0 to 7.0. If your site has a little afternoon shade, don’t worry, that will work too.

Try not to disturb your plant’s root ball too much when you dislodge it from the pot. This will give your new tree a better chance at survival.

Dig a hole a little wider than the root ball and set the plant so the top of the root ball is level with the ground.

Water thoroughly, at least once a week, until your palm shows signs of establishment, such as the emergence of new growth. This can take a few weeks to a few months.

Once these plants are established they are typically drought resistant but will need supplemental irrigation during dry spells.

If you’re transplanting into a pot, use a ceramic one with drainage holes in the bottom. You can opt to use plastic but you want your pot to be heavy enough to support the palm as it grows and not topple over easily.

Fill your container with palm tree potting soil up to the base of your transplant’s stem and water well. Pots dry out very quickly, and making sure new transplants have plenty to drink is critical to their success.

Keep the soil moist until your plants begin to grow new leaves. Allow the surface of the soil to dry out a bit, while the interior soil maintains some moisture.

Finding this sweet spot will give your new plant the hydration it needs while it grows, but prevent it from suffering from root rot.

W. robusta grows quite rapidly so make sure to pot up into larger containers as needed, always taking care to disturb the roots as little as possible.

Choose a new container that has about two inches of extra space around the existing root ball so it has plenty of room to grow.

How to Grow Mexican Fan Palms

The Mexican fan palm comes from warm, sunny climes and it expects no less when growing in your garden or gracing your home.

Keep this species in freely draining soils, give it ample sunlight, and plenty of space to grow, and it will not disappoint. Even if you’re starting with seedlings, this tree will need up to 25 feet of space between it and its neighbor when planted outside.

Make sure to choose a location where your full grown tree will not be exposed to high winds. As you can imagine, these tall trees, once full grown, can be toppled quite easily in strong winds.

Hardy in USDA Zones 9 to 11 W. robusta can actually tolerate dry cold quite well.

At 20°F, this species will survive, but may suffer damage to the foliage. Persistently cold, wet weather is much more damaging to this tree and will inevitably cause fungal infections.

Although these trees will tolerate a wide variety of soil types from loam to sand to clay, the substrate must be free draining. This species is also moderately salt tolerant, so if you happen to be within walking distance to the ocean, that salty sea air won’t pose a problem.

Consider the fact that if you keep your palm tree happy, it could grow several feet in a year. Make sure it lives somewhere that won’t cramp its high-flying style.

If you are growing it as a houseplant, the conditions should be bright, warm, and not humid. 

It can be challenging to make your house as comfortable for this species as the sandy hills of Baja, California.

For this reason, W. robusta often does better on a warm, sunny patio from late spring through early fall, and then in a greenhouse or bright bay window for the duration of winter.

Even when grown in a pot this species can grow quite large, so make sure to get some help when moving the container to and fro.

Wherever you situate your plant, make sure it gets at least six hours of bright sunlight per day. Use a ceramic pot to encourage good drainage and aeration of the soil. Water thoroughly, but allow the soil to dry out to an inch down before watering again.

During winter, like many plants, this species enters a period of dormancy and slower growth.

Decrease watering at this time to avoid root rot and other fungal problems. You may only need to water once every three weeks though the winter, but this will depend on the placement of your tree and its individual needs.

Growing Tips

• Plant in freely draining soil.
• Site in a location with abundant sunlight.
• Provide plenty of space to grow.
• Avoid cramped or humid conditions which will invite fungal problems.
• Water once a week during the first six months after planting in the absence of rain and then only in dry spells.

Maintenance

Maintenance for an indoor W. robusta is a little more involved than for specimens living outside.

In the garden, you can mostly be blissfully hands-off once your Mexican fan palm is established.

It’s not strictly necessary unless you see signs of nutrient deficiency such as sparse foliage or discolored blotches on the leaf tips.

Once this species prepares to enter dormancy in late fall, stop fertilization to avoid encouraging leggy growth.

Pruning Mexican fan palm fronds will rob this species of the iconic shaggy skirt that makes them so eye-catching.

However, if you’ve planted your tree outdoors in a high traffic area, prune dead fronds to stop them flying off in high winds and injuring passersby.

To cut off a dead frond, use a sharp pruning saw and remove it as close to the base as possible, without damaging the tree’s trunk.

If you are growing your specimen as a houseplant, it’s best to remove dead fronds as they wither.

Pests

Here’s a general overview of some pests you might encounter outdoors:

Palm Leaf Skeletonizer

The larvae of the palm leaf skeletonizer moth (Homaledra sabalella) create large translucent blotches on W. robusta leaves and can cause leaves to die and drop off.

Keep your eyes peeled for the droppings of the caterpillars, which look like teeny black or green balls.

If you find them, wash the leaves vigorously with a strong stream of water from the hose and remove any that remain by hand.

Palm Weevils

Palm weevils in the Rhynchophorus genus can cause major damage to palms.

The adult weevils lay eggs in the crown of the palm and the larvae feed on soft, juicy bud tissue. Because these trees can only produce shoots that grow up, and not laterally, damage to the plant’s sole point of growth is often fatal. 

If you manage to catch the infestation early, remove and destroy the insects and/or apply neem oil.

Many other types of palm weevils feed on the crown of these trees, however, none are as destructive as the invasive R. palmarum and R. ferrugineus.

Disease

Most of the common issues affecting Mexican fan palms are related to an overabundance of moisture.

Butt Rot

Butt rot is caused by the fungus Ganoderma zonatum, and as it progresses the trunk decays and gradually turns hollow.

Among the first signs of infection are drooping or yellowing leaves. Unfortunately, there is no cure for butt rot.

G. zonatum is commonly found in soils, and sadly, the only way to control this condition is to destroy all diseased plants and avoid planting palms in the same location.

This fungus can affect both indoor and outdoor specimens.

Fusarium wilt

The easiest to identify symptom of this disease, caused by the fungus Fusarium oxysporum, is the rapid death of older leaves.

At first, leaves appear to be affected only on one side of the midrib, but the fungus eventually spreads across the entire leaf, killing it.

Ultimately, this disease will kill the tree. Currently, there is no cure for fusarium wilt and it can affect both indoor and outdoor trees.

Phytophthora Bud Rot

Phytophthora palmivora is a water mold (oomycete) that kills tender, developing tissues in new leaves and buds. The first signs of infestation are discolored, wilting leaves.

This pathogen typically gains a foothold when trees are damaged by cold or physical trauma.

Unfortunately, there is no cure for this disease. Any affected plants and their soil should be destroyed, and not composted, to prevent further spread.

Young specimens are generally more susceptible than those that are well established.

Best Uses for Mexican Fan Palms

If you’re lucky enough to live somewhere where sunshine and warm weather is constant, use one of these quick-growing trees to really make a statement in your garden.

W. robusta is a hardy, unfussy, and all around excellent choice for a landscape tree of epic proportions.

Just bear in mind it will grow tall – very, very tall – and can be toppled more easily than smaller trees in high winds.

If you live in the colder climes but are longing for the warmth of Baja, try this adaptable tree in a pot, either indoors as a houseplant or a patio specimen with winter protection.

Almost all fan palms love hot, sunny weather. Grown widely across the Middle East, southwestern North America, and other warm, tropical, or arid regions of the world, these trees prosper outdoors under these conditions.

Elsewhere, they’ll need the cover of a greenhouse, conservatory, or a cozy, well-lit corner of your home. A few species require humidity and part shade, but warmth is still a must.

To find out more about growing your own fan palms, read on. Here’s what we’ll cover:

What Are Fan Palms?

There are numerous species referred to as fan palms and many are widely used in landscaping.

Although this group of plants come from a number of different genera, they’re all part of the true palm family, Arecaceae.

This means they share a lot of the same morphological characteristics such as the distinctive evergreen leaves arranged at the top of an unbranched, single trunk which is often covered in old leaves, or leaf bases.

Fan palms also all have a similar leaf shape and produce large, wide, fan-shaped fronds, known in botanical terms as palmately lobed.

No two types of fan palm are alike, however, and it’s important to remember as you read through this guide that we’re providing a broad overview and you’ll need specific information for each species to cultivate them successfully.

The Mexican fan palm, Washingtonia robusta, for example, thrives in hot, arid conditions, while the ruffled fan palm, Licuala grandis, likes moisture and shade.

As a group, these plants are very popular in the horticultural trade. Grown in botanical gardens, backyards, and urban landscaping around the world, fan palms are beloved for their fetching foliage and copious clusters of flowers and fruit.

Although they may vary in their growing requirements, once established many of these species will endure for years. In general, they are hardy in Zones 7 to 11, depending on the species.

Certain members of this group have become the trademark plant of well-known regions. The Mediterranean or European fan palm, for example, is a symbol of its namesake region, while the Mexican fan palm is an icon of Hollywood.

To find out how to grow one of these horticultural classics, or their close kin, read on.

Fan Palm Propagation

Like all true palms, fan palms are grouped into a category of plants called “monocots.” Monocots have numerous distinguishing characteristics, including an inability to be grown via cuttings.

Your best chance at propagating these striking plants is to use one of the methods described below.

From Seed

These plants are considered pretty easy to start from seed. One of the reasons they’re so straightforward is the seeds don’t require the same complex process of stratification as those with hard seed coats do.

Seed can be purchased online or collected straight from a wild or cultivated specimen. To collect seed from a wild tree make sure the fruit is ripe.

For Mexican fan palm, this will mean the fruits will be black and in the case of the European type, they’ll be deep purple.

Once collected, seeds must be cleaned, or stripped of their flesh. This will help minimize the introduction of unwanted fungi into your potting substrate. Pick the flesh off with your fingers and scrub the seed with a rough sponge to get them as clean as possible.

Next, float your seeds in water. Those that float are not viable and should be discarded.

The specifics will vary depending on what species you are growing, but here’s a general overview:

If you don’t have a warm enough location for this, a sunny windowsill with a heat mat should do the trick. Keep the soil evenly moist, but not waterlogged. Germination should occur in a week or two.

To take proper care of your little, sprouted palmlettes, make sure the soil stays moist but not soaking wet. Once plants have produced their second or third true leaf, you can pot your babies on to a larger container and pull back on the watering a little bit.

Most adult specimens like dry soils and are extremely susceptible to rot. Young plants with established root systems can wait until the surface of the soil has dried out before you water again.

For more information about starting from seed, check out our guide to growing palm trees.

Via Division

As fan palms grow, some species produce offshoots, which can be dug up and planted elsewhere.

Offshoots are also known as “suckers” as they reroute some of the nutrients from the parent plant into their own tissues. This vegetative growth is how many rhizomatous plants spread.

European, Chinese and ruffled fan palms produce suckers, but those in the Washingtonia genus, and the bismarck types do not.

Suckers can be sliced off the parent plant with a sharp knife, saw, or spade, depending on how large the root ball is. If you’re dealing with a potted specimen, it’s often easier to take the entire plant out of the pot, lay it on a tarp, and slice off the offshoot, like you’re cutting through a cake.

You’ll have to backfill the original container with potting soil once you return the mother plant to her spot. Make sure you water her well after the ordeal is over to help her through the shock!

If you have a large outdoor specimen with offshoots, use a shovel.

Although it’s a lot more physically taxing to remove suckers from a specimen growing outside, the process is the same, but performed while the plant remains in the ground.

While severing the offshoot, be very careful not to damage the trunk of the parent plant. Even superficial wounds can invite pathogens and pests.

Once you’ve successfully extracted an offshoot, plant your baby in a pot filled with appropriate substrate.

The pot should be large enough to comfortably contain your offshoot’s existing root structure, but not too much bigger than that. Water thoroughly and place in a sunny, warm location.

Make sure the soil stays consistently moist until the young plant shows signs of new growth, then you can allow the surface of the soil to dry out.

Transplanting

If you’re transplanting young specimens you started from seed, make sure they have at least two true leaves before moving them.

True leaves will resemble the mature plant’s leaves, but are a bit smaller. If you’re planning on transplanting outside, harden your babies off gradually, increasing the amount of direct sunlight and wind they’re exposed to each day in increments of an hour.

You can also obviously go the easier route and purchase a young plant at a nursery.

In the garden, choose a spot with freely draining soil with a pH range of 6.0 to 7.0 in full sun.

Dig a hole the same depth and a little wider than the root ball. Set the plant in the hole so the top of the root ball is level with the ground.

In the absence of rain, water thoroughly at least once a week until you see the emergence of new growth. This can take a few weeks to a few months.

Once these plants are established they are typically drought resistant, unless you’ve planted one of the species native to humid tropical rainforests.

Again, always do your research on the species you’ve selected.

If you’re transplanting into a pot, make sure to fill it with the aforementioned freely draining soil. An unglazed ceramic pot is best, as it will allow soil to dry out evenly.

Choose a pot several inches wider than the diameter of the root ball, and make sure it has drainage holes in the bottom.

Place the root ball in the pot so that the base of the stem and the top of the root ball is about one to two inches below the top of the pot. Fill in with soil and tamp it down well.

After planting, water in well. Very well! Pots can dry out very quickly, and making sure new transplants have plenty to drink is critical to their success. Plan to water every day in hot, dry weather.

How to Grow Fan Palms

Most fan palms hail from warm, sunny places around the globe. When growing these plants, try to emulate the specific conditions they come from.

Just close your eyes and imagine you’re in the south of France, or a poolside in Dubai, or even at the edge of a crystal clear pool on the warm sands of Palm Springs, California. Channel those meteorological conditions and you’ll do just fine. Think warm, bright, and dry.

The ruffled fan palms, however, are an exception to this general rule and instead prefer moist soils and shadier conditions.

If you’re growing outdoors many of the fan palms will grow rapidly, so make sure to give them plenty of room to spread out.

A good general rule of thumb is to ensure they are spaced at least six feet from other plants and structures. Avoid cramped or humid conditions which will invite fungal problems.

Water deeply during dry spells. If there’s been no rain for more than a week, especially if the weather has been hot, lay a hose at the base of your tree and run a trickle over the roots for several hours.

For species such as the ruffled fan palms, depending on where you live, you may need to water every few days. These types prefer even moisture and do not want the soil to become dry to the touch.

When grown indoors, the conditions should be roughly the same as outside: think brightly lit, spacious, and warm.

The European fan palm (Chamaerops humilis) is a little more tolerant of lower light, cool conditions. It’s a good choice for growing as a houseplant.

Pick this species over the Mexican fan palm (Washingtonia robusta), for instance, which really prefers warmer, sunnier conditions.

To situate a fan palm indoors, choose the brightest corner of the house. Any of these species need at least six hours of bright, indirect sunlight per day.

When watering an indoor plant, thoroughly drench the soil. For most fan palms, you’ll want to allow the top inch or so of the substrate to dry out before watering again, about once weekly.

There are some exceptions to this, however, such as in the case of the ruffled fan palm (Licuala grandis), which prefers a little more water. Water this species when the surface of the soil is dry to the touch.

Indoors or out, fan palms enter a period of dormancy and sluggish growth in winter. Back off the watering even more at this time to avoid root rot and other fungal problems.

Growing Tips

• Plant in freely draining soil.
• Site in a location with abundant sunlight or bright light indoors.
• Water once a week during the first six months after planting, in the absence of rain.

Pruning and Maintenance

Maintenance for indoor fan palms is a little more involved than for those growing outdoors in the garden.

If you have a species that grows tall, such as the California type, consider removing fronds as they die, especially if your specimen is planted in a high traffic area. A bonk on the head with one of those leaves is not a fun experience.

To cut off a dead frond, use a sharp pruning saw and remove it as close to the base as possible, without damaging the tree’s trunk. In many instances, the old foliage can actually just be pulled off using a little muscle power.

Prune houseplants to remove dead or diseased foliage. Removal of old fronds is more important inside than out as old plant material can harbor pests.

If you are growing your fan palm as a houseplant, care will depend on the particular species you’ve chosen. Generally speaking, these plants do not like to be repotted.

Once they grow large enough to require a bigger container, you’ll need to repot, but don’t move them in and out of pots on a whim.

In order to get the infusion of nutrients they need, fertilize once a month from spring until fall, when they prepare to enter dormancy.

Any palm specific fertilizer will do, such as the one mentioned above. Always water deeply after applying fertilizer.

Pests

Here’s a general overview of the pests you might encounter:

Palm Aphid

Likely disseminated by the horticultural trade, Cerataphis brasiliensis and C. latanea are a common pest of these trees and love hot, humid environments.

You’re more likely to find these little insects indoors in areas where air circulation is low and conditions tend to be more cramped, but they can cause trouble outside, too.

Interestingly, these aphids look more like scale insects than the aphids that infest your roses. They resemble little brownish-red spots, surrounded by a white fringe, and are about one to two millimeters in diameter.

Severe infestations can cause loss of vigor, yellowing foliage, and stunted growth. Clusters of these aphids typically target new growth.

In the case of large infestations, the leaves will die and eventually drop off. Early detection of an infestation is important so you can take action to minimize damage before populations grow.

Inspect your trees for the frass left behind by the caterpillars. Once caterpillar frass has been found, wash the leaves thoroughly with a strong stream of water to dislodge the larvae.

Pick off and destroy any stragglers. These moths range across the Caribbean and up into Florida and other southeastern states.

Palm Weevil

Listed as an invasive species outside of its native South American range, Rhynchophorus palmarum is a big problem for palms.

Adults are about an inch and a half long, black in coloration, and have a long proboscis.

The insects lay eggs in the crown of the plant and the larvae feed on bud tissue, inhibiting the tree from producing new growth.

In the case of severe infestations, the tree may eventually die. Although many other types of weevils feed on the crown of these trees, none are as destructive as R. palmarum.

For small infestations, removing the insects by hand or applying neem oil will help. Otherwise, your tree must be destroyed and discarded to avoid spreading this pest.

Tessellated Scale

Tessellated scale (Eucalymnatus tessellatus) is particularly common on specimens kept as houseplants or in greenhouses.

The insects are small, oval, and dark brown in color and can often be found along leaf veins. If you notice brown dots or splotches on the foliage, take a look along the undersides of the leaves and along leaf veins.

Early infestations can be treated with vigorous, repeat washing using a rag and a strong stream of water.

Bad infestations cause large discolored patches on foliage and require treatment with insecticides. If left untreated, a large infestation can kill the plant.

Check out our guide to identifying and controlling scale for more information.

Disease

Generally speaking, the fan palms are a robust bunch but they are particularly susceptible to overwatering, and the fungal diseases that can occur in moist environments.

These are the most common issues that plague these plants:

Butt Rot

Although it sounds like a five year old named this common disease, the term “butt rot” actually refers to the trunk of the plant, which hollows and decays as this condition progresses.

The first sign of this fungal infection, caused by Ganoderma zonatum is drooping or yellowing leaves and loss of foliage.

To control the spread of this disease, remove and destroy all affected plants. Unfortunately there is no cure.

G. zonatum is commonly found in soils, so discard any infected potting soil and avoid planting fan palms in areas of the garden where affected plants once lived.

False Smut

A fungal disease common in very humid conditions, false smut (caused by species in the Graphiola genus) shows up as lots of little black spots on the foliage.

Eventually, tiny threads, or filaments, may emerge from these black spots. These are actually the fruiting bodies of the fungus.

Remove and destroy affected leaves quickly. This disease typically resolves once the plants are moved and given adequate air circulation and sunshine. This is easy to do for indoor, potted fan palms, but not so easy if your victim is outside.

Outside, the additional stress of moving a fan palm may contribute to its end. For this reason, if you identify false smut outside, work quickly to remove affected leaves.

Fungicides are not typically necessary with good management of the growing environment. However, if you have an affected tree outdoors, consider calling a licensed fungicide applicator to help treat your plant.

Leaf Rot

A general term for a fungal infection of the leaves, leaf rot is caused by a wide variety of fungi.

The cause is generally overwatering and wetting of the leaves.

Black or brown spots emerge on the foliage followed by dieback. Maintaining good air circulation between plants and making sure leaves stay dry generally fixes the problem.

Phytophthora Bud Rot

This disease is caused by Phytophthora palmivora, a water mold (oomycete) which typically gains entry into palm tissue damaged by cold or other trauma, such as disease.

Once inside, this pathogen causes browning and rotting of young leaves and tender developing buds.

Any affected plants should be destroyed, and not composted. If your plant is growing in a pot, remove and discard all soil to prevent further spread.

Best Uses for Fan Palms

Because fan palms prefer warm, sunny weather, for many of us they’re best kept as potted plants that can be moved indoors or out, depending on the season.

In a container you can slot your fan palm into a corner of the garden to add a temporary tropical accent to a garden bed. Importantly, you’ll also be able to easily transport it inside once the weather gets cold. Many types make excellent houseplants year-round, too.

If you’re lucky enough to live somewhere where the sun and warmth is constant in Zones 9 to 11, you can plant one of these striking trees as a standalone specimen, or in the back of a bed where it can grow tall and make a visual impact.

The larger fan palms, particularly those in the Washingtonia genus, are excellent for this!