Tag: Organic Gardening

10 Essential Daily Garden Tasks
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Are you having trouble keeping your garden healthy and productive? Use this list of ten essential daily gardening tasks to take your garden from struggling to thriving.

Jump to the free daily garden routine printable here.

It’s easy to focus on the big tasks that need to be done in the garden. However, it is often the small simple things we do on a daily basis that will have the biggest impact on the health of our garden.

Garden Care Schedule for your Daily Gardening Routine:

1. Check the watering

Struggling = Overwatered plants have saturated soil and grow slowly. Underwatered plants are wilted with yellowing dried leaves.

Thriving = Plants that are watered correctly are healthy and grow well. They are less stressed and less prone to pests & disease.

Don’t assume your garden needs watering; first, check the soil. Put a finger in the soil; if it comes up with soil on it, wait before watering. If your finger is dry, it’s time to water.

Three key tips for watering:
- Newly planted seeds or seedlings will need watering more often until they get established.
- Watering in the morning helps hydrate plants for the day.
- Try to be in the garden when the water is running. You’ll spot leaks and broken timers and emitters that way, too.
2. Thin seedlings

Struggling = Too many seedlings too close together crowd each other out and compete for sunlight and nutrients. None of them grow well.

Thriving = Each seedling has enough room. Seedlings grow quickly and get established.

After planting seeds, thin them early and often. Young seedlings will grow and thrive when given enough room. Check mature spacing guidelines and square foot spacing in this blog post.

3. Keep up with pruning and deadheading

Struggling = Tasks build up, and they become overwhelming. You don’t know where to begin. There is too much to do! Suckers grow large and take energy away from growing plants.

Keep flowers deadheaded

Thriving = Daily pruning and cleaning up keeps tasks manageable. Plants are healthy and productive.

Prune off suckers from tomato plants

I always have my favorite pruners when I head out to the garden each morning. If you see something that needs to be pruned or cleaned up, do it right away. Plants are healthier and happier when kept in check and cleaned up. Essential garden tasks include:
1. Prune off dead, dying leaves.
2. Prune suckers out of plants.
3. Deadhead flowers.
4. Cut back flowers to encourage branching.
5. Keep herbs pruned back.
6. Keep your garden clean & pick up debris.
Prune off dead or diseased leaves

4. Look for bugs: good and bad

Struggling = You’re afraid to check the garden because of the pests. Squash bugs are multi-generational and out of control. You have to pull plants to prevent infestations from spreading.

If you see holes in your leaves, look for a pest on the backside of the leaf

Thriving = Daily checks on the undersides of leaves for problem pests keep numbers in check. Soapy water nearby makes it easy to dispose of problem pests. You see signs of beneficial insects and understand how they can help.

Use apps to help you identify pests

Make it a point to observe nature during your daily gardening routine. This doesn’t mean reaching for a spray bottle, every time you see a bug. However, it’s important to be aware of what is happening in your garden. Apps like “Seek” help identify which bugs are in your garden. Read this post to learn more about organic pest control options.
1. Look for holes, check the undersides of leaves, check around plants, and check new seedlings.
2. Pay attention to the patterns of pests/beneficial insects throughout the year.
5. Learn to spot the first signs of disease in your garden

Struggling = Plants are overtaken with disease and have to be pulled. Garden diseases build up in your soil and come back each season.

Powdery mildew on leaves

Thriving = You remove diseased leaves as soon as you see them and then monitor that plant closely. You clean your tools each time you use them to prevent the spread of diseases.

Clean tools and wash hands after pruning diseased plants

Removing affected leaves is often a good first step in treating garden diseases. Daily observation will help you know what further treatment steps are needed if the problem progresses.

Catching problems when small helps keep them under control and prevents spreading to the rest of your garden. Clean tools meticulously and dispose of any leaves in the garbage, not compost.

10 Essential Garden Tasks to Take Your Garden from Struggling to Thriving (continued)

6. Help your plants find the trellises

Struggling = Plants are overgrown with unruly branches that break when you train them to the trellis.

Thriving = You give young plants and branches a nudge or clip them in place as they grow, and they happily climb trellises.

Vertical gardening keeps plants healthier and more productive, but if the plant doesn’t find the trellis, it can’t climb. Other plants must be clipped to or woven up the trellis. Larger branches are less pliable and may break, but young growth is easy to train.

7. Look at the blossoms. Do you need to hand-pollinate anything?

Struggling = Female blossoms wither and die because they aren’t pollinated. Fruits do not mature before the season ends.

Thriving = You are in the garden when blossoms open and hand-pollinate as needed to ensure fruits form on squash, cantaloupe, and other plants.

The best time to do your daily gardening routine is in the morning – many blossoms are only open first thing in the morning. Learn the difference between male and female blossoms and hand-pollinate as needed.

A bonus tip: Plant flowers and allow herbs to flower to attract pollinators so you won’t have to hand-pollinate as often.

9. Check on vermicomposting and composting bins

Struggling = Plants aren’t growing well.

Thriving = You add food scraps and yard waste to composting bins and amend your beds regularly.

The best fertilizer for plants is fresh worm castings and compost from your vermicomposting and compost bins. Daily attention to this essential gardening task will keep them producing worm castings and compost to add to your garden.

Vermicomposting bins: Collect kitchen scraps. Check on 1-2 bins daily to monitor worms’ health. Add scraps or harvest finished worm castings as needed—Spread and water in castings. Take note of where you need to add more food scraps. Learn more about in-bed vermicomposting in this blog post.

Compost bins: As part of your garden care schedule, add disease-free yard waste to bins regularly. Monitor the temperature of compost bins and turn or water piles as needed. Learn more about how to compost in this blog post.

9. Keep up with the harvesting

Struggling = Fruit is left on the vine and gets rotten, attracting pests. Vegetables become tough or overgrown, and production slows down.

Thriving = You harvest as needed daily and incorporate that food into your daily diet and menus.

When you go out to the garden, bring a basket with you, and when something is ready to be picked, pick it! Pick young and pick often to encourage production. Monitor crops that usually get damaged by birds or pests and harvest early or put barrier methods in place before they ripen.

10. Enjoy being in the garden

Struggling = Being in the garden stresses you out because there is so much work!

Thriving = You look around and feel content about what you accomplished. You realize that daily, consistent efforts are better for your garden and easier for you!

Create a spot to rest, relax, and observe the beauty and wildlife as part of your daily garden routine. There may always be work that can be done. However, if you spend a little time each day, those tasks won’t overwhelm you. Instead of dreading it, you will look forward to time in the garden.

Remember to comment with one of your daily gardening routine tips for a successful garden!

Free Printable List of 10 Essential Daily Garden Tasks

If these ideas for a garden care schedule were helpful, please share:
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Angela Judd

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December 26, 2023
Whole Egg Planting, Seaweed Slug Repellent, A Bug Snug, and Other Trends to Try

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While I definitely don’t consider myself a trendsetter—or even a person who follows trends—my interest is always piqued when I learn of new gardening approaches and tricks. Here, I’ve rounded up a few of my favorites that I plan to try this coming year. (And if you’re ahead of the game and have already given these a go, let us know how it went in the Comments.)

1. Lay seaweed down to repel snails and slugs.

Above: Whole seaweed is purportedly a great soil amendment—and snail and slug repellent. Photograph by H Matthew Howarth via Flickr, from Seafood for the Garden: Make Your Own Organic Fertilizer.

Liquid seaweed is a well-known wonderful organic fertilizer, but how about whole seaweed as pest control? Researchers are experimenting with seaweed to fight various plant invaders, and so are gardeners. Some claim that this briny treasure from the sea works as an excellent snail and slug repellent. Plus, it benefits the soil with ready-to-use trace minerals and helps block out weeds—and it’s free if you live near a beach! The theory goes like this: Since seaweed holds a lot of salt, it will repel slugs and snails, which detest salt. Furthermore, when seaweed dries it becomes crackly and crisp, which soft-bodied slugs and snails also dislike.

I plan to gather some fresh seaweed and use it like a wet mulch around vulnerable plants, or place it around the perimeter of a garden bed. The recommendation is to layer it about 4-inches-high because it will shrink as it dries. If you’re planning to give this a try, I’d suggest keeping the seaweed away from stems and leaves (as they don’t enjoy the salt either) and collect only the seaweed you need (as seaweed provides shelter and food for various marine life).

2. Add edimentals to the garden.

Above: Chives, with their purple pompom flowers, are pretty and edible. Photograph by Clive Nichols, courtesy of Harry Holding Studio, from Edimentals Are Trending. Here’s Why You Should Include Them In Your Garden.

As you probably guessed, this is the joining of the words edible and ornamental, the idea being that a plant can be both tasty and decorative at the same time. As someone who loves to multitask, I’m drawn to plants that adopt the same behavior. Edimentals can be annuals, perennials, trees, or shrubs. Looking closer, options include edible leaves, berries, fruits, roots, or flowers.

What I appreciate about edimentals is that harvesting becomes more like foraging as the plants are dispersed around a garden instead of living in a designated patch or bed. The other positive aspect is that most edimentals also attract pollinators. Here are some plants I will add this year: Artichokes for their bold architectural leaves, perennial herbs like chives (which have charming pink flower heads), and Nasturiums whose flowers can be tossed in salads.

3. Crack an egg into a planting hole.

Above: Raw egg is said to be a cure for all sorts of ailments—including nutrient-weak soil. Photograph by Justine Hand, from Gardening 101: How to Use Eggshells in the Garden.

This idea came from a client of mine who swears by this technique, an old trick that has been passed down for generations of gardeners. I knew about adding crushed egg shells to compost bins and as a topdressing, but this method—in which you add a whole, unbroken raw egg to the bottom of your planting hole—is new to me. My client found that when she did this in a few pots, she discovered the egg-filled pots looked greener and grew larger than the egg-less pots (her controls).

This form of direct composting theoretically results in boosted soil nutrients, especially calcium and beneficial mycorrhizea. Some other sources say that buried eggs are excellent for tomatoes to prevent blossom end rot. I understand that this technique is not a quick solution as the decomposition process needs time to occur and that I could be encouraging raccoons or other curious creatures to investigate if they detect an odor, but I am willing to try. (Side note: As someone who is mildly allergic to eggs, I don’t feel bad repurposing them for the betterment of plants.)

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December 22, 2023
4-Step Permaculture Method for Feeding Fruit Trees
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Zach at Arizona Worm Farm created a “forest of fruit trees” that he can pick fruit from every day of the year. In this post, he shares his 4-step permaculture method for how to fertilize fruit trees organically. This method replicates what the trees get in a forest, producing healthy trees with more fruit.

Guest Post by Zach Brooks, Owner of Arizona Worm Farm

One of our goals at the Arizona Worm Farm is to create a “forest of fruit trees” where there is something bearing fruit every day of the year.

Some of the most dense, healthy plant growth on the planet is in forests. Who fertilizes those plants? Mother Nature! What we try to do here on our farm and in our yards is (as much as we possibly can) mimic the aspects of the forest that promote healthy, hearty growth and produce an abundance of fruit.

How do we create a forest environment in the desert?

Let’s start with a definition: In soil biology, detritus is dead organic material. Detritus in the forest typically includes the bodies or fragments of dead organisms and plants and their waste. Detritus typically hosts communities of microorganisms that colonize and decompose it.

Most of us don’t have animals roaming our properties that will poop or die, and few of us have enough trees to shed enough leaves to mimic a forest. In an urban environment, detritus is replaced quite nicely with compost.

Compost pile being turned at Arizona Worm Farm

To mimic nature and fertilize fruit trees organically, we need:
- The detritus that falls from the trees and plants and animals.
- The living micro and macro-organisms in the soil that convert that detritus to food for our trees.
- A dense covering on the ground to prevent evaporation and erosion while providing a habitat for the living organisms that make this all work.
Before you begin:

A pre-step: first, create a berm (about 6 inches high) at the dripline of your tree. That’s the line where if you sprayed water on your tree, the water would drip. If it is a very young tree, go to where you guess the dripline will be in three years.

4 Simple steps to fertilize fruit trees organically

How do we achieve forest-level success in our desert environment? It is surprisingly easy and consists of four steps.

Step One: Add microbes to feed your fruit trees organically

How to add microbes:

Worm castings or worm castings tea is the best way to add microbes in large numbers. Worm castings (or aerated tea made from the castings) create or join a soil ecosystem already full of bacteria, protozoa, amoeba, fungi, and nematodes.

A teaspoon of good, active garden soil, according to microbial geneticists, contains a billion bacteria, several yards of fungal hyphae, several thousand protozoa, and a few dozen nematodes. By adding worm casts to this equation, you boost the soil ecosystem and help it flourish.

Microbes (which you boost by adding worm castings) are the ultimate organic fertilizer. These microbes are the opposite of chemical pesticides that poison and kill everything in the soil in the name of abundant yields.

Worm castings

How many worm castings to add:

Scientifically, the perfect amount of castings is 5% – too little, and you won’t get the abundance of microbes we are looking for; too much, and you are just wasting money. It is easy to measure 5% when we mix a raised bed mix, but it is harder for a tree.

Our “rule of thumb” is about a cup of worm castings per three feet of tree height. My personal favorite advice is “toss a couple of handfuls.”

How to add the castings:

Spread castings around the base of the tree, right on top of the soil.

If you have access to good aerated worm castings tea (either from someplace like The Arizona Worm Farm that makes it or from your own tea brewer), it can be used in place of castings.

Step Two: Add lots of compost to fertilize fruit trees organically

In urban areas where we don’t get natural detritus, we add compost.

Compost at Arizona Worm Farm

What kind of compost is best for fertilizing fruit trees?

The best compost is the compost you make yourself in your own yard using your own yard waste – it will have the nutrients your trees used to grow initially. The second best is to get a diverse combination of composts from companies that make good compost. Generally, the easiest way to do that is to buy most of your compost from someplace you trust and then add a bag or two of different composts.

How much compost should I use to fertilize my fruit trees?

We recommend one cubic foot of compost per three feet of tree height – but there’s not really such a thing as too much compost. It is safe to fill the water well (that area you created with your berm) with an inch or two of compost all the way out to the dripline.

Step Three: Cover with a thick layer of mulch

Why should I add mulch when feeding my fruit trees?

Mulch is your tree’s best friend, especially in our hot, dry climate. Most importantly, mulch is an awesome habitat for microbes.

Some other benefits of mulch:
- Conserves and extends available water.
- Protects the soil from erosion.
- Suppresses weeds.
- Moderates temperature extremes.
- As mulch slowly decomposes, it adds carbon to your soil.
How much mulch should I use?

We recommend you fill the rest of the water well with mulch. There is almost no such thing as “too much” mulch. Generally, aim to use at least 3-6 inches (7-15cm) of mulch. One foot of mulch is not too much.

Step Four: Water trees deeply to encourage deep roots

For healthy tree growth, we want deep, healthy roots. Shallow watering (usually the result of a tree in a lawn that gets watered a couple of minutes several times a day) will encourage shallow roots. Trees that fall over or have no ability to pull water from deep underground in the summer are the result of shallow roots.

How much water does a fruit tree need?

There is a standard rule arborists like to use: “About 10 gallons per 1 inch of trunk diameter per week”. Trial and observation will help you get it right.

How to water fruit trees:

After fertilizing your fruit trees, fill the water well with water (the mulch will float, but it will stay in place). Water slowly, allowing the water to seep into the soil rather than run off. Aim to water to a depth of at least 2 feet.

Watch your tree. After watering, the tree’s leaves should look healthy and green for anywhere from 7 to 21 days, depending on the outside temperatures and humidity.

When you see a bit of a leaf droop, it is time to water again. If you are uncertain, dig down 10-12 inches and see if the ground is still moist. Water only when it is dry to that depth. This will encourage deep roots, which help stabilize the tree.

How often should you fertilize fruit trees?

The basic rule is three times a year: Valentine’s Day, Labor Day, and Memorial Day. These days are usually recommended because they are the start of the three growing seasons in most places. They are also easy to remember.

The best answer is “when your trees need it.” If you observe your trees, you will start to see the compost and the mulch disappearing. This means it has been converted into food by the microbes. It is time to add more food for the microbes when what was there is mostly gone.

You can add worm castings more frequently and aerated teas as often as monthly. We find more than quarterly is probably not needed.

Worm castings tea

Do I need to pull back the mulch before I feed the trees again?

No. When you repeat these steps, don’t remove anything (don’t push the mulch aside or move compost). Add the same layers on top of the previous layers. Water and the natural cycles will get the levels straight, and we don’t want to disturb micro or macro-organisms.

Some other things matter – like appropriate placement, proper pruning (less is usually better), monitoring for pests, and adding shade when trees are young. But, if you get the four steps for organically feeding fruit trees consistently correct, you will have happy, healthy trees that reward you with lots of fruit.

Arizona Worm Farm is an excellent place to get all the products needed to feed your fruit tree forest organically. They have worm castings, compost, mulch, and worm castings tea available for purchase and delivery.

If you would like to see the Arizona Worm Farm fruit tree forest in person, they offer free public, guided, and VIP tours during regular business hours. See their website for more information.

If this article about Organic Fruit Tree Fertilizing in Four Simple Steps was helpful, please share it:
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Angela Judd

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December 14, 2023
Native Bees: How to Help the At-Risk Pollinators

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“The priority in gardening is no longer just about mastering an aesthetic,” says Bishop. “There is a shift toward being more mindful and ethical. We need to embrace the natural systems that we’ve just forgotten about.” Here’s what you can do at home.

Above: These tiny masked bees are solitary, nesting in twigs and stems. Since they’re so small, they prefer small flowers, even “ones we might not really notice, like those found in an alternative lawn” says Kornbluth. Because of their size, they can go deep inside flowers to get nectar. Not particularly hairy, they don’t carry pollen on their bodies, like other bees, but carry it in their “’crop,’ the upper part of the digestive tract.” This masked bee was spotted foraging on snakeroot in Bishop’s garden.

Grow native plants in your garden.

Native insects coevolved with native plants. They’re part of an intricate food web system. For most organisms, non-native plants are like “plastic fruit in a fruit bowl,” says Kornbluth. “It may look good, but they won’t be able to eat it.” While nectar-eating insects are able to enjoy the sugary, calorie-rich nectar from a wide range of flowers, “pollen, which bees need to feed their young, is more likely to come from the local native species that they have been coevolving with them for many thousands of years,” says Kornbluth. (At Perfect Earth Project, we advocate for at least two-thirds native plants in your garden.)

Don’t use pesticides.

Even organic ones. Pesticides (and that includes insecticides, herbicides, and fungicides) don’t discriminate and will kill all insects—not just the ones you’re targeting. When selecting plants at the nursery, ask if they’ve been treated with pesticides of any kind, especially neonicotinoids, a systemic insecticide that is absorbed by the entire plant rendering every part poisonous to pollinators.

Above: Male longhorn bees feature very long antennae. These bees are specialists of Asteraceae, and especially love sunflowers. Look for them buzzing about in July and August.

Provide nesting spots.

Native bees nest in the ground and in stems and wood piles. “It’s important to remember that the standing dead vegetation you see is full of bees,” says Kornbluth. Try not to cut back stems when flowers are done blooming, but leave them for the bees. If you’re concerned about how that’s going to look, visit The Battery, says Bishop, and see how pretty it is all winter long. “Embracing a plant’s complete life cycle—from seedlings in spring to seed head or grass mound in winter—is a Piet Oudolf trademark,” says Bishop of the visionary Dutch landscape designer who created the garden’s master plan. “By not deadheading, we allow the life cycle to stay on display and integrate into design year-round. And this decay becomes abundant living matter and nest material for pollinators.” It’s also beautiful. “I love the aesthetic: the decay, structure, and different textures of every plant—they each have their own kind of personality,” says Bishop.

But if you must cut some stems back, Kornbluth advises leaving last year’s stems as high as you can. While you’re at it, leave the leaves. In addition to feeding the soil, fallen leaves provide insulation for ground-nesters, like bumblebees and mining bees, as well as other hibernating organisms. “It prevents the surface of the earth from getting too cold, which impacts their survival over the winter,” says Kornbluth.

Look and learn.

“Do a small insect safari at home,” suggests Kornbluth. Bishop has been doing this in her own backyard in Westchester, New York, and happily admits the glee she feels when finding new species in her garden. “Give yourself the opportunity to be meditative and peaceful,” says Kornbluth. See who’s coming to eat. What do you notice about them? What plants are they visiting? When are they appearing? Share what you find on iNaturalist. “The whole process is very eye-opening, engaging, and connecting.”

See also:

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December 14, 2023
Arizona Garden in January
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What grows in low desert Arizona gardens in January? I’ll show you. All of these pictures come from my garden in Mesa, Arizona.

Low desert includes elevations below 3500 ft in the Southwest, such as the Phoenix and Tucson metro areas.

We garden in many parts of Arizona year-round, but we can’t grow everything all year. Take a look at what’s growing this month, and let me know what’s growing in your garden in the comments.

Disclaimer: This post may contain affiliate links. See my disclosure policy for more information.

“Anyone who thinks gardening begins in the spring and ends in the fall is missing the best part of the whole year. For gardening begins in January with the dream.”

– Josephine Nuese

Low Desert Arizona Garden in January

January is often the coldest time in the low desert Arizona garden. Although colder, it doesn’t mean you should stay inside this month. There are important garden tasks that need to be done this month, such as pruning roses and fruit trees (see a list of garden tasks for January below). Harvests from fall plantings continue throughout the month as you plan for your spring and summer garden.

Keep reading for garden inspiration, a January garden checklist, and a list of vegetables, herbs, and flowers to plant in your Arizona garden in January.

Vegetables growing in the low desert Arizona garden in January

Kale is a superstar in the Arizona garden in January. Keep harvesting for a continuous supply. Frosty nights will sweeten the taste of kale. Grow several varieties of kale in your garden.

Broccoli harvests begin in earnest this month. Hopefully, you succession planted to have a continuous harvest all month. Plant transplants through the end of January.

Carrots planted in September and October are ready to harvest. Plant carrots through the end of March. Be sure to thin carrots for large, delicious carrots.

If you aren’t growing asparagus, consider dedicating a 4-foot by 4-foot raised bed. January is a great time to plant asparagus.

If you are growing asparagus, January is the time to cut back the dormant fronds and amend the bed with a 5-inch layer of compost.

Tips for growing flowers in the low desert Arizona garden in January

Cool-season annual flowers and wildflowers planted from September through December are beginning to bloom this month and should continue blooming through March. Thin seedlings if they emerge in clumps. Water cool-season annuals 4 to 6 inches deep about once a week.

Want better blooms on your seed-grown annuals? Thin them to where each plant’s leaves are touching one another when the plant is 3-4 inches tall.

Read this article to learn how to grow alyssum.

Most annuals will do well in our cooler winter and spring seasons when chosen carefully. As temperatures heat up, these cool season annuals will die. Keep a garden journal of what worked in the past and what didn’t.

Flowers to Plant Outside & Seeds to Start Indoors Each Month in the Low Desert of Arizona.
• PLANTING GUIDE: Each month lists annual flowers and bulbs to plant outside & seeds to start indoors.
• BLOOMING GUIDE: Photos show what may be in bloom that month.

Fruit trees in the low desert Arizona garden in January
- Plant bare-root fruit trees this month. Look for trees that have low chill hours (less than 400), mature early, and self-pollinate.
- Deciduous fruit trees should be pruned before bud break this month.
Blood oranges and grapefruit citrus are ripening this month. Best way to test for sweetness? Pick one and try it! Water established citrus once every 3-4 weeks in January.

Trying to decide which variety to plant next month? This article will help you decide.

Herbs in the low desert Arizona garden in January

Garlic chives are a reliable perennial herb in Arizona. Consider finding a spot to tuck them in and around your garden this month. If you have garlic chives in your garden, January is a good time to cut back and divide the overgrown clumps.

Read this article for more information about how to grow garlic chives.

How to Start Seeds Indoors: 10 Steps for Success

Low desert Arizona garden in January to-do list:
- If you didn’t start seeds indoors for tomatoes, eggplant, melons and peppers in December, get them started this month. The seedlings will be ready to be planted by February or March.
- Continue planning for February and March plantings. This is seed catalog season; get ideas you would like to try and order seeds. My favorite seed companies with great catalogs are Baker Creek Seeds, Botanical Interests, and Seed Saver Exchange. Look at your garden and plan where you will plant everything. Research different varieties to see which do well in Arizona. A good rule of thumb is to look for short-season crops. Be sure to rotate where you plant each year.
- Are you going to grow sweet potatoes this year? Start your own sweet potato slips so they will be ready to plant in March. This article explains how to start sweet potato slips.
- Buy organic turmeric and ginger for planting out in March. Learn how to pre-sprout ginger and turmeric in this blog post.
- Plant spring flowering annuals this month. (See list below)
- Plant pre-chilled (at least 6 weeks in fridge) tulip and hyacinth bulbs this month.
- Plant cold-tolerant trees, bushes, and perennials and protect new plants from freezing temperatures.
- January in Arizona is a good time to plant deciduous fruit trees. Look for varieties that require less than 400 chill hours, have early maturing fruit, and are self-pollinating.
- Bare-root roses are in-stock at local nurseries – it’s a great time to plant roses.
- This is the last month to plant strawberries. Space strawberries 12 inches apart. Plant strawberries with crown of plant above soil line. Mulch and water strawberries well.
- January in the low desert of Arizona is a good month to propagate succulents so they establish roots before summer heat.
- Wait until mid-to-late February to plant frost-sensitive plants such as lantana and hibiscus.
- Begin planting blackberries at the end of the month.
Watering:
- If we get heavy rain, trees and shrubs may not need supplemental watering. If not, water shrubs and trees no more than once every 14-28 days. Wateruseitwisely.com is a helpful resource for landscape watering guidelines.
- Do not over-water annual plants this month. Water to a depth of about 6 inches, and allow the top of the soil to dry out before watering again.
- Check containers with a moisture meter or make sure the top inch or so of soil has dried out before watering.
- Water established citrus trees once every 3-4 weeks.
- Water established fruit trees once every 10-14 days.
Pruning:
- Frost-tender plants such as hibiscus and lantana should not be pruned this month.
- Prune established roses this month. Clean up all fallen leaves and debris around roses to discourage disease and insects.
- Prune dead branches out of cold-hardy trees and shrubs.
- If deciduous fruit trees have been slow to drop leaves, remove any remaining leaves to encourage dormancy.
- Deciduous fruit trees should be pruned before bud break this month. Prune dead, diseased, broken and crossing branches and water sprouts (branches shooting straight up from limbs of trees). Consider treating fruit trees with horticultural oil before bud break as well.
- Do not prune citrus trees in January.
Fertilizing:
- Fertilize deciduous fruit trees at the end of this month. Water well before and after fertilizing.
- Fertilize established fig trees in January. Aged manure is a wonderful way to feed figs.
Protect from freezing temperatures (below 32° F):
- Have burlap or frost cloth on hand to protect newly planted citrus, small lemon and lime trees, and other frost-sensitive plants from frost.
- Plants in containers are more susceptible to freezing temperatures than ground ones.
- If freezing temperatures are expected, water citrus trees deeply to help protect them from frost.
Yard clean-up:
- Clean-up around fruit trees. Decayed fruit is inviting for pests.
- Consider leaving the leaves in place. If you do rake up the leaves, then save them. Bag leaves and let them decompose; then spread them on plants as leaf mulch in spring. If you compost, they are a great addition to the compost pile.
What to plant in the Arizona garden in January:

Vegetables, Herbs & Fruit to plant in the low desert in January

(Click the link to read “How to Grow” articles on my website.)

SEED, TRANSPLANT, OR BOTH? S = Seed T= Transplant
PLANTING GUIDE: Each month lists vegetables, fruit & herbs to plant outside & seeds to start indoors.

HARVEST GUIDE: Photos show what may be ready to harvest that month.

Planting dates are for the low desert of Arizona (zone 9b).
Vegetable, herb, and fruit seeds to start indoors during January

(Click the link for seed sources.)

Flowers to plant in the low desert in January

(Click the link to read “How to Grow” articles on my website.)
Alyssum (ST)

Carnation (T)

Chamomile (T)

Dianthus (T)

English Daisy (T)

Feverfew (T)

Gaillardia (ST)

Geranium (T)

Gladiolus (corm)

Hyacinth (bulb)

Hybrid Tulip (bulb)

Larkspur (S)

Lisianthus (T)
Flower seeds to start indoors in the low desert in January

(Click the link for seed sources.)

Vegetable, Herb, and Fruit Planting Guide for the Low Desert of Arizona

The ultimate resource for gardeners in arid regions with hot summers and mild winters—designed specifically for the low desert of Arizona (Zone 9b/10a).
It features information on how and when to start seeds indoors and when to transplant them outside for nearly 100 different fruits, vegetables, and herbs.

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Angela Judd

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December 12, 2023
How to Start a Garden on a Budget

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Starting a garden on a budget does not have to be daunting. Here are 12 simple ways that can help you start your garden without breaking the bank:

1. Start Small:

To minimize costs and workload, begin with a small sunken bed or container garden. It’s easier to expand later as your confidence grows. A sunken bed has minimal start-up cost and can be a very effective way to garden. To learn more, read this post about sunken-bed gardening.

2. Reuse and Recycle:

Use items you already have around the house when starting your garden. Old containers, cement blocks, and bathtubs can be used as planters to save money. Think outside the garden box and use the ideas in this blog post about creative container gardening.

3. Swap Seeds and Plants:

Swap seeds or cuttings with friends, neighbors, or online communities. This way, you can get a variety of plants for free. Seed packages often contain more seeds than you will use. Split packages with friends. Learn how to save seeds so you always have some to share. Local libraries often have seed libraries where you can check out seeds for free!

Starting a garden on a budget? Take advantage of local seed libraries!

4. Make Your Own Compost:

Composting kitchen scraps and yard waste will save money on soil amendments and fertilizers. This can be daunting at first, but begin composting kitchen scraps with in-bed vermicomposting. If you have a large amount of yard waste, learn how to compost in this blog post.

5. Choose Perennials When Starting Your Garden on a Budget:

Perennials come back year after year, saving you money in the long run. Some of my favorite perennials are asparagus, artichokes, and strawberries. Learn more about growing perennials in this blog post.

6. Grow from Seeds to Save Money Gardening:

Growing plants from seeds is cheaper than buying seedlings or mature plants. Don’t be intimidated by starting plants from seed. If they have good soil and you start them at the right time, seeds will grow!

7. Use Mulch:

Mulch reduces the need for watering and weeding, which can save both time and money. Places like Chipdrop provide gardeners with free woodchips. Learn more about how to use mulch.

8. DIY Vertical Garden Structures:

Building your own trellises, cages, and supports instead of buying them is a simple way to start a garden on a budget. Look around your house or garage and repurpose a ladder or other items. If you want to learn more, read this post about creative vertical gardening ideas.

9. Water Wisely:

Depending on where you live, water can be an expensive part of gardening. Water in the early morning or late evening to reduce evaporation and save on your water bill. Learn other watering principles in this blog post.

10. Choose High-Yield Crops When Budget Gardening :

Starting a garden on a budget doesn’t mean you can’t grow delicious food. Grow vegetables that produce a lot of food, like tomatoes, zucchini, and beans. You’ll get large harvests with less expense.

11. Use Natural Pest Control:

Use natural methods like companion planting to control pests instead of expensive chemicals. This saves you money and is better for your garden as well. Learn more about successful companion planting principles in this blog post.

12. Learn and Experiment When Starting a Garden on a Budget:

The more you learn about gardening, the more you can save. Don’t be afraid to experiment and learn from your mistakes.

Remember, the key to starting a garden on a budget is creativity and resourcefulness. Happy gardening!

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December 12, 2023
Arizona Garden in December
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Low Desert Arizona Garden in December

What grows in low desert Arizona gardens in December? I’ll show you. All of these pictures come from my garden in Mesa, Arizona.

Low desert includes elevations below 3500 ft in the Southwest, such as the Phoenix and Tucson metro areas.

We garden in many parts of Arizona year-round, but we can’t grow everything all year. Take a look at what’s growing this month, and let me know what’s growing in your garden in the comments.

“The gardening season officially begins on January 1st, and ends on December 31.” – Marie Huston

Nowhere is this quote more true than in Arizona. While many parts of the country are dreaming of gardening and circling what they would like to plant in seed catalogs, in Arizona we are harvesting pounds of citrus and vegetables and planting seeds.

The Arizona garden in December is a beautiful place. Chilly morning weather makes the afternoon my favorite time to be in the garden. Fall planting in September and October yields harvests in the Arizona garden in December. Watch the weather reports carefully and be prepared to cover frost-sensitive plants if we get a freeze. Cool temperatures in December help cool-season plants to thrive.

Keep reading for December garden inspiration, a December garden checklist, and a list of which flowers, herbs, and vegetables to plant in your Arizona garden in December.

Disclaimer: This post contains affiliate links. See my disclosure policy for more information.

Vegetables growing in the low desert Arizona garden in December

Tomatoes planted in July – September are producing. The cooler temperatures mean they take longer to ripen. Once temperatures drop below 55 degrees at night, the plant will not set new fruit, but fruit on the plant will continue to ripen. Tomato plants are frost-sensitive; cover if temperatures fall below 35 degrees F. December is the time to start tomato seeds indoors for planting in February and March.

Spinach planted in September is ready to enjoy. Harvest outer leaves and continue planting spinach through February.

This article has more information about how to grow spinach.

Succession plantings of the Brassica family, which include cabbage (pictured here), broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cauliflower, kohlrabi, and kale, ensure a continual harvest. Harvest when young and tender for best taste.

Swiss chard is a staple in my garden year-round, but the newly-planted tender Swiss chard in the December garden is especially delicious. Continue to harvest outer leaves throughout the winter. Most years, many of my Swiss chard plants will produce through the summer as well. I like to replant and begin with fresh plants in the fall.

Harvest radishes planted in the fall while young and tender. Continue to plant radishes through April for a continual harvest all winter.

Garden-fresh peas are one of my family’s favorite garden treats. Pick peas often and young to encourage production. Provide a trellis for growing peas.

For more information about different types of peas to try, read this article.

Flowers growing in the low desert Arizona garden in December

Marigolds that are planted now will thrive until the heat of April or May.

Gaziana is a low-growing, trailing evergreen perennial which grows 6 to 8 inches tall and 2 to 3 feet wide. Grows best in full sun with well-drained soil.

Continue to plant Dianthus. This cold-hardy annual will bloom until temperatures begin to climb in late spring.

Stock

Nigella

Floss Flower

Sweet Peas

Forget-me-not

Poppies

Fruit trees in the low desert Arizona garden in December

Cooler temperatures cause citrus fruits to change color, but the color is not always an indicator of sweetness. Fruit does not sweeten once picked. Check for ripeness and desired sweetness by sampling the fruit.
- Do not prune citrus this month.
- Water citrus deeply once this month.
Deciduous fruit trees like peach, pear, and plum are losing their leaves. If all leaves do not fall, strip leaves to encourage dormancy.
- Don’t prune until leaves have fallen.
- When the scaffold is visible, prune deciduous fruit trees through February. Make cuts carefully and do not remove more than 25 percent of the tree.
- December or January is a good time to use a dormant oil spray, such as horticultural oil on fruit trees to help prevent pests.
Herbs in the low desert Arizona garden in December

Garlic chives are one of the easiest herbs to grow in Arizona. Harvest young stalks and use in eggs, marinades, and Asian dishes.

Divide garlic chives next month if the clumps are overgrown.

Chamomile is an herb in the Asteraceae plant family. A natural remedy for several health conditions that is often consumed as tea is made by drying flowers and seeping them in hot water.

Read this article for more information about how to grow chamomile.

Parsley grows well in the cooler weather of December. If you use a lot of parsley, consider succession planting it (planting every 3 weeks).

Read more about how to grow parsley here.

Low desert Arizona garden in December to-do list:

Planting:
- Start seeds indoors for tomatoes and peppers this month. They will be ready to plant by February or March.
- Begin planning for February and March plantings: order seeds and decide which areas in your garden to plant in (it is best to rotate where you plant your crops each year).
- Plant cold-tolerant trees, bushes, and perennials if necessary, but protect new plants from freezing temperatures. Visit amwua.org for a list of more than two hundred landscape plants that do well in Arizona’s climate.
- Wait until February to plant frost-sensitive plants such as lantana and hibiscus.
- December in Arizona is a good time to plant fruit trees. Look for varieties that require less than 400 chill hours.
Watering:
- Water trees and shrubs deeply no more than once every 14-28 days, less often if we get heavy rain. Wateruseitwisely.com is a helpful resource for landscape watering guidelines.
- Many annual plants are not growing actively and have minimal water needs. Be careful not to over-water this month. Water to a depth of about 6 inches and allow the top of the soil to dry out before watering again.
- Plants in containers will need less water in December as well. Before watering, check with a moisture meter or make sure the top inch or so of soil has dried out.
Pruning:
- Do not prune frost-tender plants this month.
- It is okay to lightly prune spent flowers and dead canes on your established roses in December. Wait until January to remove spent flowers and dead canes in newly-planted roses.
- Prune dead branches out of cold-hardy trees and shrubs. December is a good time to prune dormant woody trees and shrubs. See benefits below.
Fertilizing:
- Do not fertilize this month.
Protect from freezing temperatures (below 32 degrees F.):
- Have burlap or frost cloth on hand to protect newly-planted citrus and other frost-sensitive plants from frost.
- Plants in containers are more susceptible to freezing temperatures than those in the ground.
Yard clean-up:
- Harvest fruit and clean up around fruit trees. Fallen fruit and leaves are inviting for pests.
- Save all the leaves that are falling from Ash, Vitex, Elm, and other deciduous trees this month. If you planted a winter lawn, the grass clippings combined with fallen leaves are perfect for the compost pile. If you decide not to compost, bag leaves and let them decompose; they will be ready to spread on plants as leaf mulch by spring.
Benefits of pruning woody plants in cool weather:
1. Pruning in warmer months stimulates new growth; when the plant is dormant, growth is not stimulated by pruning.
2. Pests that can invade pruning cuts are dormant in cooler weather.
3. Once leaves have dropped, the tree’s overall shape (scaffold) is easier to see. Spotting crossed or damaged branches is easier.
4. Wounds made by pruning in winter will heal quickly in the spring.
Looking for gifts for your favorite Gardener this month? Here are two blog posts with some of my favorites:

Visual planting guides for vegetables, herbs, fruits, flowers & vines.

What to plant in the low desert Arizona garden in December

Vegetables, Herbs & Fruit to plant in the low desert in December

(Click the link to read “How to Grow” articles on my website.)

SEED, TRANSPLANT, OR BOTH? S = Seed T= Transplant
PLANTING GUIDE: Each month lists vegetables, fruit & herbs to plant outside & seeds to start indoors.

HARVEST GUIDE: Photos show what may be ready to harvest that month.

Planting dates are for the low desert of Arizona (zone 9b).
Vegetable, herb, and fruit seeds to start indoors during December

(Click the link for seed sources.)

Flowers to plant in the low desert in December

(Click the link to read “How to Grow” articles on my website.)
Ageratum (T)

Alyssum (ST)

Baby’s Breath (ST)

Carnation (T)

Chamomile (T)

Dianthus (T)

English Daisy (T)

Feverfew (T)

Forget-Me-Not (S)

Geranium (T)

Gladiolus (corm)
SEED, TRANSPLANT, OR BOTH? S = Seed T= Transplant

Flower seeds to start indoors in the low desert in December

(Click the link for seed sources.)

Flowers to Plant Outside & Seeds to Start Indoors Each Month in the Low Desert of Arizona.
• PLANTING GUIDE: Each month lists annual flowers and bulbs to plant outside & seeds to start indoors.
• BLOOMING GUIDE: Photos show what may be in bloom that month.

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Angela Judd

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November 24, 2023

How to Compost: 10 Simple Steps

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The satisfaction you feel as you turn yard and kitchen waste into organic fertilizer that nourishes the soil, as well as your vegetables, plants, and flowers, is the reward for putting in the effort to learn how to compost.

However, the thought of learning how to compost can be intimidating. The first time I started composting, I was great at growing flies – but not compost. I did not know how to compost, and felt like composting wasn’t for me. It was too hard, too stinky, and there were too many bugs. Can you relate to any of those feelings?

Fast forward a couple of years. I decided to enroll in Master Gardener classes where two crucial things occurred:

I learned the correct way to compost from a local composting expert.
Volunteering at the demonstration garden gave me hands-on experience learning how to compost.

With this newfound knowledge and experience, I was ready to try again. I applied what I learned and put that knowledge to work, and guess what? I was successful and had fresh compost for my garden. Since that time, I’ve added hundreds of pounds of homemade fertilizer to my garden beds.

Disclaimer: This post may contain affiliate links. See my disclosure policy for more information.

How to Compost: 10 Simple Steps

There are as many methods of composting as there are gardeners, but this is the method that works for me using the type of compost bin offered through my city for $5 each. This method can also be adapted to other types of bins.

1. Choose a location to compost

Here are a few necessities for the location:

Plenty of room – the bins I use are 3 feet wide and 2 ½ feet tall. Plan on room for at least 2 bins. Ideally, there is 3 to 4 feet clearance in front of the bins.
Access to water – wetting down the compost with a hose helps speed up the process, especially in dry climates like the low desert of Arizona.
Shade – prevents compost from drying out as quickly and it’s easier for you to work in.
Wheelbarrow access – room to maneuver in and out is helpful.

2. Obtain compost bins

The bins need to be around 3 feet wide and 2 to 3 feet deep (smaller bins won’t heat up as well), have lids, holes drilled in the sides for airflow, and bottomless. For the method I use, you need more than one bin. For smaller yards, 2 bins work fine. Larger yards could use 3, 4, or more bins.

Call your local city to see if they offer bins. This type of bin may also be found online on places like OfferUp and Craigslist. If you live in the City of Mesa (AZ), call 480-644-2221 to request a bin.

3. Gather the correct tools for composting

The right tools make composting much easier. I use the following tools: (click on the name to see the ones I use on Amazon).

4. Learn what and what not to compost

Do Compost:	Don’t Compost:	Compost with Care:
Leaves	Meat / bones	Bermuda grass clippings
Grass clippings	Dairy	Citrus peels (take a long time to break down)
Coffee grounds	Animal waste	Ashes (adds alkalinity)
Vegetable scraps	Diseased plants
Egg shells	Oil
Plant material	Weeds with seeds
Fruit and peels

Lawn Alternatives: 10 Low-Water-Use Groundcovers for Hot Climates

5. Understand the difference between green and brown materials

Green Materials	Brown Materials
Nitrogen-rich, wet, colorful	Carbon-rich, dry
Grass clippings	Dry brown leaves
Coffee and tea grounds	Egg shells
Green garden trimmings	Hay and straw
Fruit scraps, peels	Shredded paper
Vegetable scraps, peels	Dryer lint

How to Kill Bermuda Grass Without Chemicals Before Planting a Garden

How to Become a
Self-Sufficient Gardener

6. Fill the bins

Place alternating layers of green and brown material. Aim for 3 parts brown material for every 1 part of green material. When using food waste, make sure it is buried under a layer of browns to avoid problems with flies.

Mist the layers with water as you add them to assure that the pile is adequately moist. It should have the consistency of a wrung-out sponge.

7. Observe the compost

As decomposition starts, the pile begins to heat up. This is where the thermometer comes in handy. As long as your compost is nice and hot (110℉ – 160℉), you don’t need to do much. Once it cools (below 100℉), go to the next step.

See troubleshooting tips (below) if you aren’t sure what is happening inside the bins.

8. Rotate the compost through your bins

Cooled-down compost that isn’t broken down completely needs to have air and water added back into it to heat it back up.

Use the pitchfork and shovel to move the green and brown materials from the cooled bin into an empty bin, re-moistening as you go. Break up any clumps of grass or leaves. No empty bin? Use the pitchfork to turn the material inside the bin, wetting it as you work.

Once all material is rotated through, watch the pile – it should begin to heat back up (110℉ – 160℉) within a day or so. When the temperatures drop back down again (below 100℉), repeat this step. Once the compost has an earthy odor and is dark brown and crumbly, the process is complete.

This step is why having more than one bin is so important. Ideally, the compost rotates through the bins and then is complete. After moving the material out of a bin, refill it with new green and brown materials to begin the process again. Keep moving the materials through the bins, leaving one bin open to rotate the compost into.

9. Use the compost

Success! A full bin of completed compost is gold for your garden. Use the shovel, pails, and wheelbarrow to scoop the completed compost and add it to your garden beds.

If desired, use a soil sifter like this one from Amazon to remove any large pieces from your completed compost. Toss the large pieces back into the compost pile to finish breaking down.

10. Be patient with yourself as you learn how to compost

The tricky part of learning how to compost is that at any given time, you will be doing several of these steps with different bins.

Be patient with yourself and pay attention to what is going on in each bin. Learn from your mistakes and build on your successes.

Troubleshooting Tips

Symptom	Problem	Solution
Many flies	Green items or food exposed to air	Cover pile with brown materials.
Wet compost – not heating up	Add more brown material	Transfer to a new bin and layer in more brown materials. Do not wet down between layers.
Dry compost – not heating up	Materials may be too large, needs more green	Transfer to a new bin and layer in more green materials. Wet down between layers. Cut down larger items if necessary.
Bad odor like rotten eggs	Materials too wet, not enough oxygen, or too compacted	Transfer to a new bin and layer in more brown materials.
Bad odor like ammonia	Not enough brown materials	Transfer to a new bin and layer in more brown materials.
Compost heats up and then cools down	Compost needs turned	Transfer to a new bin, moistening layers as you go.
Warm only in the middle	Compost pile too small	Aim for the compost pile to be 3 feet wide and 2 ½ to 3 feet deep.
Matted layers of leaves or grass	Material won’t break down, will become slimy	Avoid thick layers – break up layers with pitchfork and remix the pile adding in brown materials.

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Angela Judd

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November 24, 2023

Vermicomposting Made Easy: In-Bed Worm Composting
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Worm composting directly in the garden bed simplifies the process of vermicomposting. When you use in-bed vermicomposting bins, the worms live, work, reproduce, and make worm castings in the garden bed right where they are needed.

In-bed vermicomposting solves the problem of what to do with the worms during extremes of hot and cold. For example, vermicomposting in hot weather places (like the low desert of Arizona) is difficult unless you bring the worms inside during the summer months. With in-bed vermicomposting, the worms simply burrow deeper in the beds during the heat of an Arizona summer and then emerge again in the fall.

Disclaimer: This post contains affiliate links. See my disclosure policy for more information.

How does vermicomposting work?

Worm composting – also called vermicomposting (‘vermi’ = worm) – is the process of using worms for composting food scraps into vermicompost. Worms eat up to half their weight daily in kitchen scraps, and worm castings are the byproduct of all that eating. Worm castings = GARDEN GOLD!

During digestion, the worms secrete chemicals that break organic matter into nutrition readily available for plants. Worm castings and the chemicals secreted during digestion make up vermicompost.

What are the benefits of worm composting (vermicomposting)?
- Vermicompost improves soil texture and structure and aerates the soil.
- Vermicompost increases the water-holding capacity of soil.
- The nutrients in vermicompost are immediately available to plants.
- Worm castings contribute to faster plant growth and higher production.
- Worm castings are dense in microorganisms and nutrients.
- The chemicals in worm castings help prevent “damping off” and other diseases.
Worm castings from vermicomposting

What is the easiest way to make and maintain a vermicomposting (worm composting) bin?

A vermicomposting bin built into your raised beds, containers, or in-ground garden bed is the easiest way to make a worm composting bin.

No need to harvest the worm castings or move the worms inside for extremes of hot and cold temperatures. The worms live, work, reproduce, and make worm castings in the garden bed, right where they are needed.

Adding worms to an in-bed worm composting bin

When should I add in-bed vermicomposting bins to by garden beds?

If you live in a hot summer climate, do not add worms during the hottest months of the year. In the low desert of Arizona, the best time to add in-bed vermicomposting bins to your garden is from mid-September through May.

When adding worms to your beds, nighttime temperatures should be in the 70’s (°F) (21-26°C).

Which type of worms should I use for in-bed vermicomposting?

Red wigglers are composting worms that hang out in the top six inches of your garden. “Earthworms” is a generic term for one of the hundreds of varieties of worms. If you dig them from the garden, they won’t stay in the compost level.

That’s not bad, but they won’t hang out in the habitat we set up. Most bait worms need cooler temperatures than Arizona summers. If you buy nightcrawlers, you will probably lose them in June or July. We want all worms. Red wigglers will stay and live better, but no worm is bad.

Purchasing red wiggler worms locally is the best choice. I get my worms from Arizona Worm Farm here in Phoenix. You can also buy them online.

How do I make an in-bed vermicomposter (worm composter)?

Supplies needed for in-bed vermicomposting:

The 24-sheet shredder I use to shred cardboard for my vermicomposting bins
- Bin (see options below).
- Shredded cardboard – This shredder from Amazon will shred cardboard boxes (remove tape and labels first).
- Kitchen scraps.
- Worms – Red wigglers are preferred. The earthworms typically found in the garden aren’t suitable for vermicomposting.
Bin options for in-bed vermicomposting:

The bin helps designate a place in your garden for the worms to go. Choose one slightly smaller than the depth of your garden bed. There are several options:
A wire garbage can with wide openings is the simplest way to add bins to your beds.

Lifting the bin out of the bed is simple when it’s time to collect the finished worm castings.
Shape hardware cloth into a cylinder slightly shorter than the depth of your garden bed.

Wire the ends of the hardware cloth together.
2-gallon bucket (with the bottom removed and holes drilled in the sides)

I used this drill bit (for drilling holes) and a Dremel (to cut off the bottom of the bucket).

If you use this type of vermicomposting bin, it is STRONGLY RECOMMENDED to remove the bottom of the bucket.
Directions for installing and using an in-bed vermicomposting bin:

1. Dig a hole in the garden bed the bin size.

2. Place the bin in the hole.

3. Fill the habitat with shredded cardboard, and wet it down. Allow cardboard to absorb moisture overnight.

5. Begin feeding worms – see worm feeding details below.

6. Cover the food scraps with a layer of “brown” materials. Examples: wood chips, dried leaves, soil, and shredded cardboard.

7. Cover the worm habitat. Use a thick layer of wood chips. You could also use a piece of wood or a tile. If you are using a bucket, the bucket lid works well.

8. Check back occasionally and add more food scraps. (Always top with browns). Remove any large pieces of uneaten food.

9. When food scraps are gone, and the bucket is empty, you can harvest the castings. (The worms will leave the bucket and migrate to other areas of the bed). Spread the castings around the garden bed. You can also leave the castings in place.

10. Begin the process over again, starting with fresh shredded cardboard, food scraps, and browns—no need to add additional worms.

How many in-bed vermicomposting bins should you have?

I have one worm habitat in each bed. One habitat per bed is enough to get a continuous flow of microbes.

You can add as many bins as you need to process your food scraps and waste, but you don’t need a high density of worms for a successful garden.

Add at least 300 worms for each habitat. 600-800 is better, if possible.

Worms multiply to fit the space and available food. In a big garden, worms will breed faster.

What do worms eat?

Good for feeding worms Avoid feeding worms

Coffee grounds, grains, tea bags, vegetables, fruit, eggshells, paper Dairy, oily food, spicy food, meat, citrus, salty foods, alcohol, glossy paper

Tips for feeding worms:

Add equal amounts of greens and browns each time you feed.

Greens

Fruit scraps, vegetable scraps, bread & pasta (small amounts), coffee grounds, crushed eggshells

Browns

Cardboard, mulch, dry leaves, shredded paper
- Make sure worms have eaten previously added food scraps before adding more. Plan on feeding worms about once per week.
- Cut or blend food before adding to bins. Smaller pieces of food break down faster and speed up the composting process.
- Cover with browns after adding food scraps (greens) to avoid attracting fruit flies.
- Remove large pieces of uneaten food. Pay attention to what the worms are eating and not eating.
- The bin’s interior should have the moisture consistency of a wrung-out sponge (damp but not overly wet). Spray lightly with a hose if necessary.
- Cover with a thick layer of wood chips, or replace the lid on the bucket after feeding.
Frequently asked questions about in-bed vermicomposting:

Question: I have a ton of black soldier fly larvae in both of my bins. Will they be detrimental to my red wigglers?

Answer: Black soldier flies are unusual in the Phoenix metro area because it is so dry here. They won’t hurt the worms, and within two or three weeks, they pupate into harmless flies (the live fly has no mouth – the only stage of the insect that eats is the larvae) that die within a day or two.

The larvae are voracious eaters, so someone who finds them in the bin should feed much more than normal. If they put buckets or bins in the ground like your setup, they may observe fewer worms in their bucket or bin as the worms will move away from the heat the larvae produce.

The worms are fine and will return when the larvae leave. The larvae don’t bite – if someone wanted to remove them (easiest is with a kitchen strainer) and toss them, that is a fine option too.

Question: I dug into two of the buckets to see how my worms were doing, and they were missing. Not a worm to be found in either bucket. Would you expect the worms to stay in that bucket full of compost, or have they perhaps left their original home and crawled around through the rest of my garden, maybe just coming back to the bucket for their meals?

Answer: The worms go throughout the beds, and then some are in the buckets with the scraps. I’m guessing with the intense heat we are having, they are burrowing down as deep as they can go.

Adding fresh shredded cardboard after emptying the bucket of the worm castings. The worms will return to the bins.

Question: I have two guinea pigs, and feed them alfalfa hay, organic alfalfa pellets, and leafy greens such as romaine lettuce, spinach, swiss chard, and parsley. They produce a lot of waste (approximately 1 quart of waste hay and pellets daily). I read that I can add their waste and their waste hay directly to my raised bed gardens, which I have been doing and have been digging it in with a hand spade. Will red wiggler worms compost the guinea pig waste and waste hay?

Answer: Red wigglers will eat guinea pig manure as it decomposes – and they will not eat anything that they don’t like until it decomposes enough for them to eat. A pound of worms will eat about a pound of waste a week. You will likely produce a lot more than that, but that’s not harmful either. The worms will eat what they want, and the rest will feed your beds as it has. Your current process will probably produce good results – the worms will improve it.

Full bin of food and castings. Let the worms complete the food before harvesting the castings.

More frequently asked questions about in-bed vermicomposting:

Question: How often do you have to add water to the compost buckets in Arizona heat?

Answer: The beds get watered 2-3 times a week during the summer and about once a week in the winter. The buckets are in the middle of one of the watering grids in my beds, and get watered as well.

Question: Can you add chicken poop to the buckets?

Answer: You can, in small amounts. Too much will overwhelm the worms. Just mix the poop with bedding (anything that was a tree…leaves or shredded cardboard or mulch) and they will do great.

Question: Do the finished castings seep into the garden through the holes in the bucket or does it need to be scooped out?

Answer: Both. It is carried out of the bed by the worms movement. When the worms have completed the food scraps you can also scoop the castings out and spread them around the bed. You then begin the process again, adding fresh cardboard and food scraps. The worms will come back into the bin.

Red wiggler worms are perfect for in-bed worm composting.

More frequently asked questions about in-bed vermicomposting:

Question: How do the in-bed vermicomposting worms do during the summer? Is there anything special you do to keep them cool during Arizona summers so they don’t die?

Answer: They burrow down into the beds and look for cool spots to stay cool. In-bed worm composting in Arizona is a great option for our hot summers. Beds should be at least 12 inches deep.

Question: Do you ever have problems with ants attacking the worms in the in-bed vermicomposting bins?

Answer: Ants don’t generally attack worms. By making the area a little moister, you can discourage ants and make the habitat better for the worms. You can use these ant bait traps.

Question: WIll in-bed vermicomposting work in containers?

Answer: Generally, it will work fine. The challenge with worms in pots for most people is that they tend to let plants get root bound and there is less soil than the worms like. As long as you have organic material and space for them to move they will do great. You don’t need to bury a bin in the container. You can do the same thing if you just dig out a hole and put a lid on the hole.

More frequently asked questions about in-bed vermicomposting:

Question: Can worms eat bokashi compost?

Answer: Absolutely. Done right, bokashi produces lots of microbes and breaks down waste to make it easier for the worms to consume.

Question: My bed is raised completely off the ground, due to the previous owner PLANTING Bermuda grass (sigh). I’ve been reading that these sorts of beds are not a good home for worms since they may get too hot or drown. We are in Arkansas, so it doesn’t typically get above 100, the bed has good drainage, and has a soil depth of about 10″. Do you think worms would be OK to add or no?

Answer: We never worry about drowning worms. They will find dry places to hang out. If she can grow vegetables, the worms will be fine. Fully-raised beds (off the ground) do tend to get hot. She should shade it in the summer, but they will probably be fine. The worst thing that might happen is they die over the summer and she has to add more in September when they start getting cooler nights.

Question: Will chemical fertilizers hurt the worms?

Answer: In small amounts, probably not, but direct contact or a large amount could. The whole idea of worms is to let them convert organic materials into a natural source of nitrogen. The worms should reduce or eliminate the need for inorganic fertilizers. Chemical fertilizers such as inorganic nitrate salt will reduce the pH, but they also kill some of the microbes we like.

Spreading worm castings around a raised bed garden.

More frequently asked questions about in-bed vermicomposting:

Question: Can I use earthworms or do I need to use red wrigglers for in-bed vermicomposting?

Answer: Red wigglers are composting worms that hang out in the top six inches of your garden. “Earthworms” is a generic term for one of hundreds of varieties of worms. If you dig them from the garden, they won’t stay in the compost level. That’s not bad, but they won’t hang out in the habitat we set up. Most bait worms need cooler temperatures than Arizona summers. If you are buying night crawlers, you will probably lose them in June or July. We want all worms. Red wigglers will stay and live better, but no worm is bad.

Question: Can I feed my vermicomposting worms bread?

Answer: Yes. Grain-based items are fine (i.e., crackers, cooked rice, pizza crust, and bread).

Question: What do I do about cockroaches in my bins?

Answer: Cockroaches can be hard to eliminate completely, but the best bet is to aggressively cover the food waste with browns. Adding at least an inch of browns on top will help.

Want more information about composting? This article shares 10 simple steps to get you started.

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Angela Judd

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November 21, 2023
Mulching Your Garden: What to Use and How to Use it
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Mulch is your secret weapon in the garden. I talk about the need to mulch your garden in nearly every blog post; mulching is that important. This post covers the benefits of mulch, what to use for mulch in different areas of your garden, and the best tips for how to use mulch in your garden.

Disclaimer: This post contains affiliate links. See my disclosure policy for more information.

Benefits of Mulching your Garden

1. Mulching your garden helps regulate soil temperature
- Hot soil is hard on plants. Mulch keeps the sun off the soil, so the soil stays cooler. Thick mulch helps insulate it even more.
- Higher soil temperatures slow plant growth, and mulch moderates that temperature.
- Mulch shades the soil from the sun’s direct rays causing less temperature variation.
- During cooler temps, mulch also helps insulate the soil.
2. Mulching your garden helps slow evaporation

A thick layer of mulch means that less moisture is lost through evaporation. You can then water less frequently, saving water, money, and time!

3. Mulching adds organic matter to your garden

When you add natural mulch in the form of bark, straw, or compost, they are incorporated into the soil and add nutrients and organic matter.

4. Mulching your garden helps prevent and control weeds

Mulching blocks the sunlight needed for weeds to germinate and often smothers existing weeds.

ALL OF THIS TOGETHER MEANS MORE GOOD THINGS GOING ON IN THE SOIL. Increased moisture, fewer temperature fluctuations, and more organic matter lead to more worm activity and more beneficial microorganisms in the soil. That means healthier soil and plants.

Different Types of Mulch:

Compost

Use homemade, bagged, or bulk compost. Compost is high in nutrients and has a finer texture than other mulching options.

A note about fresh animal manure; it must be aged before using it as mulch or compost in the garden.

Where to get it: I make my own and I also love the compost from Arizona Worm Farm.

Composted mulch

Larger texture than regular compost. It is typically made from landscape waste and isn’t completely broken down yet.

Where to get it: Arizona Worm Farm has this available. They call it mulch or city mulch. I also like the bagged composted mulch from A&P Nursery.

Pine needles

Pine needles are very light, airy, and easy to spread. One nice thing about pine needles is they don’t compact. Use a thick layer (3-4 inches) when using pine needles.

Pine needles may lower the pH of soil when mixed in with the soil. That may not be bad here in the low desert where our soil tends to be more alkaline. Pine needles become more pH neutral as they break down.

Straw (not hay)

(Don’t use hay as it often contains seeds). Straw is the stalk left over after grain, like barley, has been harvested. It is dry and hollow, and there is no nutrition left in it. Use a pesticide-free straw.

Where to get it: Shopper’s Supply and other farm supply stores.

Leaves / Leaf mold / Shredded leaves

Gather and save all leaves when they fall. Bag leaves and allow them to begin to break down; this creates leaf mold. Use your lawnmower to run over leaves to shred them. Shredded or small leaves are better at allowing water to penetrate and don’t become matted as easily.

Bark / Wood chips

The larger texture of bark and wood chips means they last longer in the garden. They may compete for some nitrogen as the wood chips break down in garden beds.

Where to get it: Chipdrop; check with local arborist; Arizona Worm Farm.

Chopped up cover crops / Grass clippings

These options for mulch are full of nutrients. Grow cover crops in beds when they would otherwise be empty. Do not use grass clippings from Bermuda grass or grass treated with chemical fertilizers, pesticides, or herbicides.

Cardboard / Newspaper

Cardboard is often used as sheet mulch under beds and in pathways to help prevent weeds. Spread newspaper in beds, but top with something else like compost or soil to hold it in place.

Where to get it: Finally, something to do with all of those Amazon boxes!

Which mulch to use in your garden

Raised and in-ground garden beds:

Smaller-grade organic materials such as compost, composted mulch, shredded leaves, straw, and smaller wood chips are excellent mulch in raised garden beds.

Pathways:

Larger materials last longer in pathways and around raised beds.

Treewells:

All materials are suitable for around trees, but take care to keep mulch away from the base of the tree.

Tips for how to use mulch in your garden
- Wait until plants have grown to several inches tall before applying mulch.
- Keep mulch about an inch away from the stems of plants.
- Add a little extra organic fertilizer below the mulch when using leaves or bark as they can take nitrogen from the soil as they break down.
- If you use Garden Grids for watering like I do, put them on top of the mulch. You may have to water a little longer to penetrate the mulch layer.
- Plan on applying mulch twice a year in the spring after planting (before the heat of summer), and again after fall planting.
- Apply a 2-3 inch layer of most mulches. Less than 2 inches doesn’t give you all the benefits, but a larger layer can be difficult for water to penetrate.
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November 10, 2023
Fall Fertilizing: How to Prepare Your Lawn, Shrubs, Trees, and Perennials for a Restorative Winter Sleep – Gardenista

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In addition to fall being a great time to get new plants in the ground, it can also be an ideal season to fertilize your lawn, trees, shrubs, and perennials. But you have to do it correctly: During these cooler months, plants are slipping into dormancy and not actively growing. Depending on how severe or mild your winter is, they can be anywhere between completely dormant to growing very, very slowly. If you fertilize right, you’ll be giving them the best send-off to their winter sleep.

Before you start, you may want to get in touch with your local cooperative extension. They can help you get a soil test (you can’t help your plants if you don’t know what they need). And they can tell you the first frost date for your area (for practical purposes, fertilizing should be done before the first frost). They know your climate best and can give you advice specific to your location.

Note: We don’t recommend using synthetic fertilizers because of the large environmental impacts associated with them, including water contamination from run off and decimation of soil microbes. Restoring soil health naturally should always be the first option.

Here’s what you need to know about fertilizing (naturally) in the fall.

For the Lawn

Above: Mulching your grass clippings and fallen leaves turns them into free, non-toxic fertilizer for your lawn. Photograph by Eric Ozawa, from Ask the Expert: Edwina von Gal, on How to Have a Healthy, Toxic-Free Lawn.

The best and easiest way to fertilize is to do one last mow with a mulching mower and leave the clippings on the lawn. Mulching the clippings back into the lawn can provide up to 50% of the needed nutrients for the grass. To make up the rest of what your lawn needs, there are two low-cost and environmentally sustainable ways to fertilize. First, you can aerate the lawn and top dress with compost. Second, if you have fallen leaves, mulch them into the lawn as well. Just remember to rake them around so they aren’t too thick. It is a smart idea to keep the nutrients created on your property, on your property. (See Ask the Expert: Doug Tallamy Explains Why (and How to) Leave the Leaves.)

A more expensive, less eco-conscious option is to use organic lawn fertilizer. While organic fertilizers are certainly better than chemical fertilizers, there are still manufacturing and transportation costs to the environment. If you go this route, follow the directions exactly. More is not better.

For Trees and Shrubs:

Above: Leave the leaves around your trees. Photograph by Janet Mavec, from Garden Visit: Jewelry Designer Janet Mavec’s Bird Haven Farm in NJ.

A closed loop is the best type of fertilizer. Keep the leaves from the trees under them. They have everything the trees need—for free. They help on so many levels. They act as mulch and keep the moisture in the soil, which in turn helps the microbes that break down the leaves, making their nutrients available to the trees. The leaves also become winter homes for good bugs. Just be sure to keep the root flare exposed; piling the leaves up the trunk can cause can cause the bark to rot. No trees on your property? Organic compost is your next best choice.

For shrubs that were healthy over the growing season, a leaf well around the base will be enough. If they didn’t do well over the summer, they may need a bit of help. Aerate the soil and add some compost and water well.

If you want to add store-bought organic fertilizer to your tree or shrub, you may want to consider consulting with an arborist first. It’s easy to over-fertilize and cause damage. Leave it to the professionals.

For Perennials:

Above: Don’t apply store-bought fertilizer to your perennials in the fall; this can bring them out of dormancy too early. Photograph by Joy Yagid, from Time to Thin Out the Garden? How to Divide (and Multiply) Popular Perennials.

Yes, leaves again. Really. And compost. Both the leaves and the compost break down slowly. Nobody is in a rush here, it’s winter and nothing is growing. The idea is that the nutrients will be ready and in a form the plant can use once it wakes up in the spring. If you’re concerned about burying your plants too deep in leaves, lightly cover what remains of your almost dormant plants, but pack the leaves thickly around them.

There are no other real options. If you use synthetic fertilizer while they are going into dormancy, they could come out of dormancy early during an extended warm spell—and then when a cold snap follows, the new growth may be killed. This can weaken the plant, causing it to fail to thrive in the spring or even die.

Our gardens are part of a larger ecosystem, so it’s important to prioritize soil health and natural methods over synthetic fertilizers. Aeration of compacted soil and addition of organic matter will have a better and a longer-lasting effect on plant health.

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November 7, 2023
How to Grow Ginger: 8 Tips for Growing Ginger
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As a low desert gardener, it’s exciting to learn how to grow a crop that I already use, is good for you, and grows well in warm climates. Ginger definitely qualifies on all three accounts. Learning how to grow ginger is easy, and growing it is even simpler (especially if you live in a warm climate).

Ginger is a heat-loving, tropical perennial herb grown for its bamboo-like leaves and flavorful rhizomes. It is grown as a long-season annual in all but the warmest locations.

This article includes information for how to grow ginger in warm climates and cool climates too. There are also tips for learning how to grow ginger in containers and how to grow ginger indoors.

Disclaimer: this post contains affiliate links. See my disclosure policy for more information.

8 Tips for How to Grow Ginger

1. Understand how ginger grows

Ginger is grown from rhizomes. Rhizomes are fleshy stems that spread horizontally underground and contain several buds or growing points. The ginger rhizomes are planted below ground and send up bamboo-like shoots that give energy to the developing ginger below ground.

Ginger shoots emerge from the ground when the weather is nice and warm in the spring. Throughout the long days and warm months of summer, ginger grows well. As the days get shorter and cooler, the leaves turn yellow as the ginger begins to go dormant.

Ginger rhizomes

Ginger shoots above ground

Ginger developing below ground

2. Purchase and prepare ginger before planting

You can buy ginger online from seed companies, but you can also purchase organic ginger from your local market. I get mine at Sprouts. When purchasing ginger rhizomes for planting, look for light-colored, thin-skinned organic ginger that is plump and firm with several bumpy nodules.

To prepare ginger for planting, cut rhizomes into 2″-3″ pieces (each piece containing at least 2 to 3 nodules). Allow cut ends to dry and heal over before planting.

3. Give ginger plenty of time to grow

Ginger needs a long, warm growing season of about 10 months to grow well.

Zones 8 and warmer generally have enough time to start and grow ginger outdoors. Plant outdoors after your last frost date and when the soil warms in the spring. In the low desert of Arizona, plant ginger in March.

Plant rhizomes with nodules pointing up 2″ deep and 6″–8″ apart.

For square foot gardening, plant 4 ginger rhizomes per square foot.

Plant 4 ginger per square foot in square foot gardening

Ginger sprouting in the garden

In cooler climates, you will need to pre-sprout rhizomes indoors before planting. Count back 10 months from your first fall frost date. This is the time to begin pre-sprouting your ginger.

To pre-sprout ginger, plant rhizomes 2″ deep in small pots on heat mats. Keep warm and slightly moist (but not soggy; it will rot). Once ginger sprouts, provide supplemental lighting until it is warm enough to plant outside. Gradually let plants become accustomed to outdoor conditions for a week and then carefully transplant sprouts to larger containers or garden beds outdoors.

4. Give ginger plenty of warmth

Ginger does not grow well in temperatures below 55°F. Temperatures below freezing cause damage to the leaves and also kills the rhizomes.

In cooler climates, choose your warmest location to plant ginger. Look for an area that gets reflected heat from a block wall. Consider planting ginger in a container. Containers often heat up more quickly in the spring. Move the container to a sheltered location when temperatures fall.

To grow ginger in containers:

Use a container for growing ginger that is at least 12 inches deep.

Container-grown ginger may need more frequent watering and fertilizer.

Harvest container-grown ginger by dumping it onto a tarp or into a wheelbarrow.

To grow ginger indoors:

Provide supplemental lighting for ginger for 12 – 14 hours.

Ideal indoor temperature: 75°F.

May require supplemental feeding.

In hot summer locations, provide shade for growing ginger. Although it prefers warm soil, intense sun often damages the growing leaves. Look for an area to plant ginger that receives shade naturally, or provide shade for growing ginger.

5. Give ginger good soil and fertilize as needed

The best soil for ginger is rich in organic matter and well-draining. Rich, loose soil may provide enough nutrients for growing ginger. Mulching the soil with additional compost or straw helps provide nutrients, control weeds, and retain water.

While ginger is growing, you can add a few inches of compost to growing ginger sprouts, similar to “hilling” potatoes. This can encourage more growth in the rhizomes.

If your ginger is not growing well, consider feeding every few weeks with an organic fertilizer such as liquid seaweed or fish emulsion. Testing your soil will help you know exactly what the soil is lacking.

Ginger developing below ground

6. Water ginger correctly

Ginger grows best with regular water, especially when the plant is actively growing. Well-draining soil is important as the rhizomes do not like soggy conditions. Do not overwater. As temperatures cool, reduce watering.

7. Harvest ginger at the right time

In cool climates, harvest ginger all at once before freezing temperatures. In warmer climates, harvest ginger after the leaves begin to yellow and die back. Wait to harvest as long as possible for the largest rhizomes.

To harvest, gently dig up the entire plant. In warm areas, you can leave the ginger in the ground and harvest as needed. Plants will go dormant during the cooler months and shorter days of winter, but new shoots will emerge in the spring.

8. Preserve harvested ginger in a variety of ways

After harvesting ginger, rinse it well and then cut off shoots and large roots. Use the leaves in tea.

Store fresh ginger in the refrigerator or freezer in plastic resealable bags. Unpeeled ginger keeps for about a month in the refrigerator or up to a year frozen.

Dehydrate ginger by peeling (young, fresh ginger may not need to be peeled) and slicing. Dehydrate at 95°F for 8-12 hours or until ginger is crisp and breaks when bent. I use this dehydrator from Amazon.

Sliced ginger before dehydrating

Sliced ginger after dehydrating

Store dehydrated slices in a glass jar with an airtight lid. Process small amounts of the sliced ginger into powder. Once ground, the powder will begin to lose flavor so grind only a small amount at a time.

Process dehydrated ginger in blender to turn into powder

Store dehydrated ginger in sealed glass jars

Process peeled ginger (young, fresh ginger may not need to be peeled) with a small amount of water in the blender. This is the blender I use.

Process young unpeeled ginger in a blender

Pulse until smooth

Freeze in herb or ice cube trays. Use individual portions as needed. When processed this way, ginger lasts up to about a year in the freezer.

Freeze in ice cube or herb trays

Store frozen cubes in freezer bags for up to 1 year

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George

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November 5, 2023
Log Pile Habitats: Beloved by Nigel Dunnett and Other Garden Designers

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The artful log pile has become a frequent feature in designer schemes, from the increasingly wild gardens of the Chelsea Flower Show to heritage gardens and newly created private spaces. A biodiversity-boosting stack will provide food, shelter, and a safe haven for all sorts of bugs—beetles, spiders, ladybugs, overwintering bees, newts, and small mammals including mice and shrews. Build it and they will come.

Log piles can provide stunning sculptural elements, too, rationalizing tricky areas, creating repetition through a space, or dividing an area with an informal boundary. Neatly built and thoughtfully placed, the best of these can be more beautiful than a hedge and, not to mention, require less maintenance. Any type of wood will do—simply source logs from your own garden maintenance or tree pruning, or use a neighbor’s prunings. Just remember to avoid removing existing fallen deadwood that is already providing useful habitats.

Placed in a cool, slightly shady spot, the pile will stay moist and provide a base for moss, ferns, and woodland plants which can be added directly into nooks and crannies. A log pile that is positioned across a shady area and a sunnier spot can provide different types of habitat at once.

Above: Nigel Dunnett’s log piles in autumn with a haze of Deschampsia, as well as Euphorbia characias ‘Wulfenii’, and rudbeckias. Photograph by Nigel Dunnett.

Arguably the master of the sculptural wood pile is Professor Nigel Dunnett, whose repeated stacks often feature on his Instagram account. The hugely influential British planting designer’s one acre garden has stunning views of the surrounding Peak District and takes inspiration from the dry stone walls dotted across that landscape, as well as the wavy hedges at Piet Oudolf’s garden at Hummelo in the Netherlands. But for Dunnett, the stacks also help define and rationalize his sloping site and connect it with the hilly landscape beyond. Over the growing season, the logs become immersed in naturalistic planting, where they play a supporting role. But in winter when the herbaceous plants die back the log stacks are revealed and become a valuable sculptural feature—and a winter home to myriad species.

Above: In deep winter, the forms are revealed. Photograph by Nigel Dunnett.

Dunnett isn’t the only designer harnessing the biodiversity-boosting power of logs. They feature frequently in the designs of Tom Massey too. He created an entire boundary using lengths of logs interspersed with panels of cross-sections at this year’s RHS Chelsea Flower Show in his Royal Entomological Society garden, a space squarely aimed at the study of insects and ways we can support them in the garden. In 2021, the designer created sculptural log walls from biochar ash logs in his Yeo Valley Organic Garden.

Above: Blackened ash logs in the Yeo Valley Organic Garden by Tom Massey at the RHS Chelsea Flower Show. Photograph by Britt Willoughby Dyer. (For more on this garden, see Sustainable Gardening: Lessons from Chelsea Flower Show’s First Organic Garden.)

Above: The wildlife-friendly log pile can become a platform for planting. At Tattenhall Hall in Cheshire, England, all the garden’s prunings are used in dead hedges or log walls. Here, a fallen tree in a woodland area becomes the support for a vigorous ‘Rambling Rector’ rose. Photograph by Clare Coulson.

Above: Landscape designer Edwina von Gal incorporates similar habitat piles into her designs. Taking planting right up to the piles creates more shelter and food for visiting wildlife. Photograph by Melissa Ozawa, from Habitat Piles: Turning Garden Debris Into Shelter and Sculpture.

Above: Neatly stacked woodpile create a sculptural feature. Photograph by Britt Willoughby Dyer.

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November 3, 2023
How to Leave the Leaves: Tips from Expert Doug Tallamy

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As leaves fall and the call to “leave the leaves” rises—from major news outlets to your next door neighbor—you may find yourself scratching your head as to how, exactly, to leave the leaves.

The slogan is a fun way to get people to consider a serious problem. We are in the sixth great extinction event in the history of the earth, which is directly affecting our food web. When one species goes extinct or its population declines severely, it can have a negative ripple effect on other species and the ecosystem as a whole. How does this tie into leaving the leaves in your own backyard? How does it help? And how do you do it?

Doug Tallamy can explain. He is an entomologist, a conservationist, and a professor in the Department of Entomology and Wildlife Ecology at the University of Delaware. He’s even written a book, Nature’s Best Hope, which is a blueprint for saving the earth one backyard at a time. (It’s on Gardenista contributor Melissa Ozawa’s list of favorite gardening books: see In Gratitude: How a Gift from a Boss Led to a Love for Gardening Books.) Below, Doug gives us the low-down on leaving the leaves.

Photography by Joy Yagid.

Q: Why do you think people don’t leave the leaves?

Above: We’ve been conditioned to think that we have to clean up the leaves, but fallen leaves are not only beautiful, they help the soil.

A: We do what we observed when we were kids. It’s been part of our culture to get rid of the leaves. You either burn them or you put them out in the curb for the city to take away, but you have to take them off your lawn and do something with them.

Q: What’s the easiest way to start?

A: Well, there is a conflict between having that perfect lawn and and the leaves that fall on the lawn. So people say “I gotta get the leaves off the lawn.” [The solution is to reduce] the area you have in lawn. The perfect way to start doing that is to create beds under the trees that you have. And you do that by raking the leaves into those beds. And in the beginning when you’re trying to actually smother the grass, [to make the beds] you rake a lot of leaves, you make it pretty thick. My son bought a house and the first fall, he called me up and said, “Dad, I got too many leaves. What should I do with them?’” I said: “Put them in your flower beds.” He said: “I don’t have enough flower beds.” I said: “Exactly.” You increase the amount of flower beds and that’s where the leaves go. The extra ones that just don’t fit in those flower beds can go into a compost heap.

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November 1, 2023
Sunken Garden Beds: Water-Wise Gardening in the Desert

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Article and photos by Kara Adams

I’ve spent the last year building new sunken garden beds in Southern Arizona. I live in the Sonoran Desert, about 25 miles from the Mexico border. This region is very hot from May through October. We do get monsoon rains from July through September, but it is very dry otherwise.

The heat, intense sun, and dry conditions create challenging conditions for gardening. However, it is possible to create a productive garden in the desert. I want to share how I’ve been able to do just that.

To begin, I had a few requirements:

Water Efficiency: I needed to find a way to use as little water as possible. I didn’t want to spend several hours and hundreds of dollars every month watering this new space.

Time Efficiency: I needed to find a time-efficient way to maintain my new garden. I work, so a high-maintenance garden was not for me.

Productivity – I wanted to maximize the space to grow as much as possible. This would allow me to eat fresh, organic produce in season.

That’s a tall order for a little desert garden. I began experimenting to find a way to meet all 3 of those requirements.

History of Basin Beds in the Sonoran Desert

I am fascinated by the relationship between people, plants, and places in the Southwest region. The Sonoran Desert is the most biodiverse desert on earth, and I love living here. Isn’t it amazing that 3500 species of plants, 500 species of birds, and 1,000 species of bees call this beautiful region home? I’m learning all I can about the history of this place and the people who thrived in such a beautiful yet challenging environment.

The U.S. Forest Service defines ethnobotany as “the study of how people of a particular culture and region use indigenous (native) plants.”

Through Gary Nabhan’s book, I began learning about many different gardening methods in arid climates. One of them stood out as a possibility for my garden: basin beds, also known as sunken beds.

What is a sunken garden bed or basin bed?

Basin or sunken garden beds were used by the indigenous peoples in this part of the Southwest. Basin beds function just as any traditional garden bed or raised bed, but are recessed or sunken.

Sunken beds are dug down several inches, allowing irrigation water to slowly sink in rather than run off and keep soil and roots cooler during hot seasons.

Since I didn’t have to construct a raised bed, the start-up costs were low. Using a basin-style sunken bed would help me with the water and heat challenges, but what about the time efficiency and productivity piece?

I’m sure many of you have heard of the square foot gardening method, introduced in 1981 on a wide scale when Mel Bartholomew published his book, “Square Foot Gardening.” In this book, Bartholomew introduced a straightforward method to save time, effort, and space in gardening.

Instead of long rows and wide paths between, he focused on using a 4ft by 4 ft square to grow intensively in a small space. Along with the 4×4 design, Bartholomew increased productivity through intercropping, succession planting, and amending the soil. If you haven’t read this book and want to garden in a small space, on a small budget, or with a busy life, I highly recommend it.

I combined the two methods, sunken basin beds and square foot gardening, into one hybrid method. Maybe then I could get all the benefits of each.

Sunken Garden Beds Step One: Test Your Soil

An in-ground garden bed will only be as good as its soil, so the first thing I did was take some soil samples. A local lab tested the soil to give me an idea of the soil makeup and which amendments I needed to add. I chose the “Complete Soil Test with Soil Amendment Recommendations” for $85, which included a nutrient analysis of my soil profile and amendment suggestions.

I started with a very bleak space; not much of anything was growing here, except for wild amaranth and Bermuda grass, so I was surprised when the test results came in a few days later, showing I didn’t need to amend much.

Sunken Garden Beds Step Two: Remove Unwanted Vegetation and Weeds

My chosen garden area had Bermuda grass that needed removal before installing the new beds. The simplest way to remove vegetation is to use solar energy to do the hard work, something we have plenty of in the Southwest.

Two methods create a greenhouse effect and work well for this task: solarization and occultation.

Solarization controls unwanted vegetation by covering the area with clear plastic. The 2 – 6 mil thickness plastic allows solar energy to penetrate, heating up the soil and creating a greenhouse effect that smothers the vegetation in as little as 3 weeks.

Occultation is similar to solarization but uses a black plastic tarp instead of a clear one. This process takes longer as the black material absorbs solar energy and reduces the heat passed to the vegetation. A heavy opaque plastic, called a silage tarp, is used and the process takes 4-6 weeks.

An additional benefit of both solarization and occultation is the reduction of pathogen and nematode populations in the soil below.

I used occultation and laid a thick silage tarp to cook the weeds and seeds underneath for 6 weeks. When I removed the tarp, just like magic, there was nothing but bare earth and some decomposing plant material.

Sunken Garden Beds Step Three: Make a Plan for the Space

I planned just four beds in the beginning. Every gardener knows that plans tend to grow exponentially, and I ended up with twelve beds. For now, let’s focus on those first four beds!

Sunken Garden Beds Step Four: Dig Out Beds and Add Compost

I measured out and marked an exact 4ft x 4ft square. After digging down 6 inches, I removed that soil. I mixed the native soil with compost in a 50/50 mix and then filled the beds with a little of that mixture. I ended up with a bed recessed by about 4 inches.

Now, you may be thinking…“wouldn’t doing that remove all the good soil you had tested?” The answer is…not at all! When doing a soil test, you dig down about 6 inches to the root zone, where the plant will be accessing all that goodness. That is still there once I dig out the top, so what I’m doing is adding some amendment in the form of compost to the top while leaving the soil in the root zone intact.

Sunken Garden Beds Step Five: Create Pathways Between Beds

My backyard is covered in Bermuda grass, and if you’ve ever dealt with it, you know it’s tough to eliminate. I decided to cover the ground with landscape fabric around the garden beds and then layer wood chips to smother and suppress the Bermuda grass. This was after using a silage tarp for occultation before beginning the garden project. That’s how tough it is to get rid of the stuff!

Generally, I don’t like to use landscape fabric. I think it’s best for soil health to cover the ground with a thick layer of untreated wood chips. This keeps weeds in check and adds organic matter to the soil as the wood breaks down. When planning this garden area, I made an exception.

Once the beds were dug and amended, I needed to make a square-foot garden grid. To save time in measuring, I made a template grid that I could use each time I plant a new bed. I used 4ft. green plastic garden stakes, measured and marked 1 ft sections, and fastened them with outdoor-rated zip ties that will withstand the high UV here better. Using a grid template allowed me to plant each square quickly.

I used the tons of rock around my property as a border for all of my garden beds. It’s rustic, but I’m happy with the results. Best of all, it was free!

Sunken Garden Beds Step Seven: Plant Desert-Adapted Varieties

The next step was to select varieties of plants that are well-suited to this region of southern Arizona. I start nearly all my plants from seed, but if you don’t want to sow seeds, many great organizations in the area sell arid-adapted seedlings at seasonal plant sales.

After moving from the Midwest nearly 20 years ago, one of the first gardening lessons I learned was that what grew there probably won’t grow here. Varieties matter, so choose wisely! There are so many varieties that perform well here. Don’t be afraid to explore!

I planted herbs and flowers amongst my vegetables (polyculture style), hoping this would give a habitat to many different pollinators and beneficial insects.

Sunken Garden Beds Step Eight: Add Mulch and Shade

Next, I added mulch to the top to prevent moisture loss and shade cloth in certain areas.

I use shade cloth when planting new seedlings. The sun here is very intense, and it takes those little seedlings a while to toughen up. Shade cloth is also important to use in certain seasons for established plants.

Adding Long Basin Beds

Late this summer, I dug a new bed – the garden is never done, remember? This time I wanted to experiment with a long basin bed, rather than a 4×4 square. The new garden bed was 3 feet wide and 28 feet long.

I am a little (okay, a lot) obsessed with the beauty and variety of dried beans and wanted to grow them. So, I added a new long bed with a cattle panel down the middle. This would allow me to grow pole beans down the center and other crops along the bottom.

I made the most of that space, growing beans, okra, squash, roselle, and zinnias. This bed became a superhighway of butterflies, bees, and hummingbirds. It was a great success; I’m putting in a second long bed this fall. Because, you guessed it, the garden is never done!

The Result: A Thriving Garden in the Desert

Overall, I’m so pleased with the results of this gardening season. I’ve happily watched this dusty, bare backyard transform into a space alive with color and the hum of pollinators. I’ve learned a few lessons, of course, that I’ll change next season, but that’s true of any garden. I don’t think a garden is ever truly finished – there is always something new to learn and just one more plant to add.

Most importantly, I’ve done almost no weeding and only had to water the beds twice a week during the hottest part of the year. As the temperatures cool, I will change the watering schedule to once a week. This winter, I’ll install rainwater harvesting tanks to water the garden, reducing the water I must pay for.

Sunken garden beds are an effective, water-wise, efficient, and affordable option for any space

Even if you have a small space, one of these sunken square-foot garden beds will allow you to grow a surprising amount of food.

If you have little money to start a garden, this method can fit any budget.

If you’re short on time, gardening this way can be done in just a few minutes a day.

I hope this encourages you that any space, no matter the size, the climate, or the time constraints, can be a place for you to sow your dreams.

Kara Adams is a gardener and writer from the Southwest who is passionate about the interconnection between plants, people, and places. Her love for all things growing has blossomed into a lifelong commitment to the art and science of gardening.

Kara is an advocate for sustainable gardening practices and environmental stewardship. She creates written content and educational videos on Sonoran Desert plants, gardening practices, and soil health. Her topics include organic gardening, pollinator-friendly landscapes, and water-efficient gardening practices.
Follow Kara on her journey through the garden, where her love for it continues to bloom, one word and video at a time. You can follow along with her journey on YouTube and Instagram.

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October 28, 2023
Arizona Garden in November

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Low Desert Arizona Garden in November

“Welcome sweet November, the season of senses and my favorite month of all.”

Gregory F. Lenz

The Arizona garden in November is a beautiful place to be. In the low desert, the cooler temperatures of November bring a less frantic pace to the garden. Much of the fall planting was done in September and October, with some harvests beginning this month. Favorites like sweet potatoes and pomegranates are finally ready for harvesting in November as well. Spending time in your Arizona garden in November is one of the reasons we love to live in Arizona!

Keep reading for garden inspiration, a low desert November garden checklist, and a list of which vegetables, herbs and flowers to plant in your low desert Arizona garden in November.

Low desert includes elevations below 3500 ft in the Southwest, such as the Phoenix and Tucson metro areas.

Disclaimer: this post contains affiliate links. See my disclosure policy for more information.

Vegetables growing in the low desert Arizona garden in November

Tomatillos are often ready for harvest this month. Read this article for more information about how to grow tomatillos.

Eggplant harvests continue during November. Read this article for more information about how to grow eggplant.

Beans planted in July – September are producing. Pick beans often to encourage production.

Cucumbers planted in mid-August through September are producing. Pick cucumbers young and often to encourage production.

Brassicas (which include broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cauliflower, kohlrabi, and kale) are all growing well in the garden this month. Look to harvest when young and tender for best taste. Continue to succession plant through the end of the year.

Luffa is growing well in the garden this month. Harvest luffa when less than 6 inches long if you want to eat it. When growing luffa in the garden for the sponge, leave it on the vine until it is yellow and feels lightweight and hollow. For more information on growing luffa, read this post.

Radishes are one of the easiest vegetables to grow. Radishes that were planted back in September are ready to harvest. Continue to plant radishes through April for a continual harvest.

Flowers growing in the low desert Arizona garden in November

Check the end of this post for a list of cool-season flowers that do well in Arizona. Many of them can be planted in November. Petunias planted now will thrive until it gets hot in April or May.

Coral Vine (Queen’s Wreath) continues to put on a show this month. Enjoy the bees and beautiful blossoms of this frost-sensitive, vigorous vine. Cut back to the ground in February, and it will return quickly each year.

This article talks about how to grow Coral Vine.

Consider adding cool-season edible flowers to your vegetable garden. Nasturtiums (pictured here), borage, calendula, and pansies are all edible, attract pollinators, and add beauty to the garden. This article teaches how to grow nasturtiums.

Sunset cosmos

Purple hyacinth bean

Orange Tecoma in bloom

Russian sage and guara in bloom

Desert milkweed attracting wildlife

Fall rose in bloom

Fruit trees in the low desert Arizona garden in November

Pomegranates are ready to harvest this month. Check for a deep red skin color and splitting of skins. Most varieties are sweetest when the arils (seeds) are deep red.

Lemons, calamondin, and limes are beginning to ripen this month, with more citrus to come in December, January, and into spring.

For more information about growing citrus read this article.

Many varieties of figs are ready to harvest in your Arizona garden in November. Figs do not continue to ripen once picked. For ripe fruit check for soft fruit and the aroma of nectar.

Herbs in the low desert Arizona garden in November

Lemon Grass

Low desert Arizona garden in November to-do list:

If you put smaller containers away for the summer, November is an excellent time to bring them back out. Fill containers with soil and plant bulbs and other annuals.

Water trees and shrubs deeply but less often than in warmer temperatures. Water no more than every 10-14 days. Wateruseitwisely.com is a helpful resource for landscape watering guidelines.

Prune dead branches out of frost-hardy trees and shrubs.

Plant cold-tolerant trees, bushes, and perennials. For a list of over 200 landscape plants that do well in Arizona, visit amwua.org. A few ideas include penstemon, globe mallow, Chaparral sage, and Mexican honeysuckle.

Plant strawberries now for spring berries.

Wait until late February to plant frost-sensitive plants such as lantana and hibiscus.

Do not prune frost-tender plants this month.

Continue to prune spent roses.

Prepare to protect citrus from early frosts by having burlap or frost cloth on hand.

Identify and manage pest and insect problems early to prevent damage.

Onion plants may be available this month to order from Dixondale Farms.

Thin carrots, turnips, and other vegetables.

Practice good garden sanitation. Identify, manage, and treat insect problems early to prevent major damage.

If queen palms did not survive summer weather, consider replacing them with something different. Queen palms are not adapted to growing in the low desert of Arizona.

Visual planting guides for vegetables, herbs, fruits, flowers & vines.

What to plant in the Arizona garden in November:

Vegetables, Herbs & Fruit to plant in the low desert in November

(Click the link to read “How to Grow” articles on my website.)

SEED, TRANSPLANT, OR BOTH? S = Seed T= Transplant

PLANTING GUIDE: Each month lists vegetables, fruit & herbs to plant outside & seeds to start indoors.

HARVEST GUIDE: Photos show what may be ready to harvest that month.

Planting dates are for the low desert of Arizona (zone 9b).

Vegetable, herb, and fruit seeds to start indoors during November

(Click the link for seed sources.)

Flowers to plant in the low desert in November

(Click the link to read “How to Grow” articles on my website.)

African Daisy (S)

Ageratum (T)

Allium (bulb)

Alyssum (ST)

Amaryllis (bulb)

Anemone (corm)

Aster (T)

Baby’s Breath (ST)

Begonia (T)

Bells of Ireland (S)

Bigelow’s Purple Aster (S)

Calendula (ST)

Calla Lily (rhizome)

Carnation (T)

Chamomile (T)

Chrysanthemum (T)

Clarkia (T)

Coreopsis (ST)

Cornflower (S)

Crocus (bulb)

Daffodil (bulb)

Dara (ST)

Delphinium (S)

Dianthus (T)

Echinacea (T)

English Daisy (T)

Evening Primrose (T)

Flax (S)

Forget-Me-Not (S)

Freesia (bulb)

Gaillardia (ST)

Gazania (T)

Geranium (T)

Gladiolus (corm)

Hollyhock (ST)

Iris (rhizome)

Larkspur (S)

Linaria (S)

Lobelia (T)

Lupine (S)

Nasturtium (S)

Orn. Cabbage/Kale (T)

SEED, TRANSPLANT, OR BOTH? S = Seed T= Transplant

Flowers to Plant Outside & Seeds to Start Indoors Each Month in the Low Desert of Arizona.
• PLANTING GUIDE: Each month lists annual flowers and bulbs to plant outside & seeds to start indoors.
• BLOOMING GUIDE: Photos show what may be in bloom that month.

Flower seeds to start indoors during November

(Click the link for seed sources.)

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October 27, 2023
Vermicomposting Made Easy: In-Bed Worm Composting

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Worm composting directly in the garden bed simplifies the process of vermicomposting. When you use in-bed vermicomposting bins, the worms live, work, reproduce, and make worm castings in the garden bed right where they are needed.

In-bed vermicomposting solves the problem of what to do with the worms during extremes of hot and cold. For example, vermicomposting in hot weather places (like the low desert of Arizona) is difficult unless you bring the worms inside during the summer months. With in-bed vermicomposting, the worms simply burrow deeper in the beds during the heat of an Arizona summer and then emerge again in the fall.

Disclaimer: This post contains affiliate links. See my disclosure policy for more information.

How does vermicomposting work?

Worm composting – also called vermicomposting (‘vermi’ = worm) – is the process of using worms for composting food scraps into vermicompost. Worms eat up to half their weight daily in kitchen scraps, and worm castings are the byproduct of all that eating. Worm castings = GARDEN GOLD!

During digestion, the worms secrete chemicals that break organic matter into nutrition readily available for plants. Worm castings and the chemicals secreted during digestion make up vermicompost.

What are the benefits of worm composting (vermicomposting)?

Vermicompost improves soil texture and structure and aerates the soil.

Vermicompost increases the water-holding capacity of soil.

The nutrients in vermicompost are immediately available to plants.

Worm castings contribute to faster plant growth and higher production.

Worm castings are dense in microorganisms and nutrients.

The chemicals in worm castings help prevent “damping off” and other diseases.

Worm castings from vermicomposting

What is the easiest way to make and maintain a vermicomposting (worm composting) bin?

A vermicomposting bin built into your raised beds, containers, or in-ground garden bed is the easiest way to make a worm composting bin.

No need to harvest the worm castings or move the worms inside for extremes of hot and cold temperatures. The worms live, work, reproduce, and make worm castings in the garden bed, right where they are needed.

Adding worms to an in-bed worm composting bin

When should I add in-bed vermicomposting bins to by garden beds?

If you live in a hot summer climate, do not add worms during the hottest months of the year. In the low desert of Arizona, the best time to add in-bed vermicomposting bins to your garden is from mid-September through May.

When adding worms to your beds, nighttime temperatures should be in the 70’s (°F) (21-26°C).

Which type of worms should I use for in-bed vermicomposting?

Red wigglers are composting worms that hang out in the top six inches of your garden. “Earthworms” is a generic term for one of the hundreds of varieties of worms. If you dig them from the garden, they won’t stay in the compost level.

That’s not bad, but they won’t hang out in the habitat we set up. Most bait worms need cooler temperatures than Arizona summers. If you buy nightcrawlers, you will probably lose them in June or July. We want all worms. Red wigglers will stay and live better, but no worm is bad.

Purchasing red wiggler worms locally is the best choice. I get my worms from Arizona Worm Farm here in Phoenix. You can also buy them online.

How do I make an in-bed vermicomposter (worm composter)?

Supplies needed for in-bed vermicomposting:

The 24-sheet shredder I use to shred cardboard for my vermicomposting bins

Bin (see options below).

Shredded cardboard – This shredder from Amazon will shred cardboard boxes (remove tape and labels first).

Kitchen scraps.

Worms – Red wigglers are preferred. The earthworms typically found in the garden aren’t suitable for vermicomposting.

Bin options for in-bed vermicomposting:

The bin helps designate a place in your garden for the worms to go. Choose one slightly smaller than the depth of your garden bed. There are several options:

A wire garbage can with wide openings is the simplest way to add bins to your beds.

Lifting the bin out of the bed is simple when it’s time to collect the finished worm castings.

Shape hardware cloth into a cylinder slightly shorter than the depth of your garden bed.

Wire the ends of the hardware cloth together.

2-gallon bucket (with the bottom removed and holes drilled in the sides)

I used this drill bit (for drilling holes) and a Dremel (to cut off the bottom of the bucket).

If you use this type of vermicomposting bin, it is STRONGLY RECOMMENDED to remove the bottom of the bucket.

Directions for installing and using an in-bed vermicomposting bin:

1. Dig a hole in the garden bed the bin size.

2. Place the bin in the hole.

3. Fill the habitat with shredded cardboard, and wet it down. Allow cardboard to absorb moisture overnight.

5. Begin feeding worms – see worm feeding details below.

6. Cover the food scraps with a layer of “brown” materials. Examples: wood chips, dried leaves, soil, and shredded cardboard.

7. Cover the worm habitat. Use a thick layer of wood chips. You could also use a piece of wood or a tile. If you are using a bucket, the bucket lid works well.

8. Check back occasionally and add more food scraps. (Always top with browns). Remove any large pieces of uneaten food.

9. When food scraps are gone, and the bucket is empty, you can harvest the castings. (The worms will leave the bucket and migrate to other areas of the bed). Spread the castings around the garden bed. You can also leave the castings in place.

10. Begin the process over again, starting with fresh shredded cardboard, food scraps, and browns—no need to add additional worms.

How many in-bed vermicomposting bins should you have?

I have one worm habitat in each bed. One habitat per bed is enough to get a continuous flow of microbes.

You can add as many bins as you need to process your food scraps and waste, but you don’t need a high density of worms for a successful garden.

Add at least 300 worms for each habitat. 600-800 is better, if possible.

Worms multiply to fit the space and available food. In a big garden, worms will breed faster.

What do worms eat?

Good for feeding worms Avoid feeding worms

Coffee grounds, grains, tea bags, vegetables, fruit, eggshells, paper Dairy, oily food, spicy food, meat, citrus, salty foods, alcohol, glossy paper

Tips for feeding worms:

Add equal amounts of greens and browns each time you feed.

Greens

Fruit scraps, vegetable scraps, bread & pasta (small amounts), coffee grounds, crushed eggshells

Browns

Cardboard, mulch, dry leaves, shredded paper

Make sure worms have eaten previously added food scraps before adding more. Plan on feeding worms about once per week.

Cut or blend food before adding to bins. Smaller pieces of food break down faster and speed up the composting process.

Cover with browns after adding food scraps (greens) to avoid attracting fruit flies.

Remove large pieces of uneaten food. Pay attention to what the worms are eating and not eating.

The bin’s interior should have the moisture consistency of a wrung-out sponge (damp but not overly wet). Spray lightly with a hose if necessary.

Cover with a thick layer of wood chips, or replace the lid on the bucket after feeding.

Frequently asked questions about in-bed vermicomposting:

Question: I have a ton of black soldier fly larvae in both of my bins. Will they be detrimental to my red wigglers?

Answer: Black soldier flies are unusual in the Phoenix metro area because it is so dry here. They won’t hurt the worms, and within two or three weeks, they pupate into harmless flies (the live fly has no mouth – the only stage of the insect that eats is the larvae) that die within a day or two.

The larvae are voracious eaters, so someone who finds them in the bin should feed much more than normal. If they put buckets or bins in the ground like your setup, they may observe fewer worms in their bucket or bin as the worms will move away from the heat the larvae produce.

The worms are fine and will return when the larvae leave. The larvae don’t bite – if someone wanted to remove them (easiest is with a kitchen strainer) and toss them, that is a fine option too.

Question: I dug into two of the buckets to see how my worms were doing, and they were missing. Not a worm to be found in either bucket. Would you expect the worms to stay in that bucket full of compost, or have they perhaps left their original home and crawled around through the rest of my garden, maybe just coming back to the bucket for their meals?

Answer: The worms go throughout the beds, and then some are in the buckets with the scraps. I’m guessing with the intense heat we are having, they are burrowing down as deep as they can go.

Adding fresh shredded cardboard after emptying the bucket of the worm castings. The worms will return to the bins.

Question: I have two guinea pigs, and feed them alfalfa hay, organic alfalfa pellets, and leafy greens such as romaine lettuce, spinach, swiss chard, and parsley. They produce a lot of waste (approximately 1 quart of waste hay and pellets daily). I read that I can add their waste and their waste hay directly to my raised bed gardens, which I have been doing and have been digging it in with a hand spade. Will red wiggler worms compost the guinea pig waste and waste hay?

Answer: Red wigglers will eat guinea pig manure as it decomposes – and they will not eat anything that they don’t like until it decomposes enough for them to eat. A pound of worms will eat about a pound of waste a week. You will likely produce a lot more than that, but that’s not harmful either. The worms will eat what they want, and the rest will feed your beds as it has. Your current process will probably produce good results – the worms will improve it.

Full bin of food and castings. Let the worms complete the food before harvesting the castings.

More frequently asked questions about in-bed vermicomposting:

Question: How often do you have to add water to the compost buckets in Arizona heat?

Answer: The beds get watered 2-3 times a week during the summer and about once a week in the winter. The buckets are in the middle of one of the watering grids in my beds, and get watered as well.

Question: Can you add chicken poop to the buckets?

Answer: You can, in small amounts. Too much will overwhelm the worms. Just mix the poop with bedding (anything that was a tree…leaves or shredded cardboard or mulch) and they will do great.

Question: Do the finished castings seep into the garden through the holes in the bucket or does it need to be scooped out?

Answer: Both. It is carried out of the bed by the worms movement. When the worms have completed the food scraps you can also scoop the castings out and spread them around the bed. You then begin the process again, adding fresh cardboard and food scraps. The worms will come back into the bin.

Red wiggler worms are perfect for in-bed worm composting.

More frequently asked questions about in-bed vermicomposting:

Question: How do the in-bed vermicomposting worms do during the summer? Is there anything special you do to keep them cool during Arizona summers so they don’t die?

Answer: They burrow down into the beds and look for cool spots to stay cool. In-bed worm composting in Arizona is a great option for our hot summers. Beds should be at least 12 inches deep.

Question: Do you ever have problems with ants attacking the worms in the in-bed vermicomposting bins?

Answer: Ants don’t generally attack worms. By making the area a little moister, you can discourage ants and make the habitat better for the worms. You can use these ant bait traps.

Question: WIll in-bed vermicomposting work in containers?

Answer: Generally, it will work fine. The challenge with worms in pots for most people is that they tend to let plants get root bound and there is less soil than the worms like. As long as you have organic material and space for them to move they will do great. You don’t need to bury a bin in the container. You can do the same thing if you just dig out a hole and put a lid on the hole.

More frequently asked questions about in-bed vermicomposting:

Question: Can worms eat bokashi compost?

Answer: Absolutely. Done right, bokashi produces lots of microbes and breaks down waste to make it easier for the worms to consume.

Question: My bed is raised completely off the ground, due to the previous owner PLANTING Bermuda grass (sigh). I’ve been reading that these sorts of beds are not a good home for worms since they may get too hot or drown. We are in Arkansas, so it doesn’t typically get above 100, the bed has good drainage, and has a soil depth of about 10″. Do you think worms would be OK to add or no?

Answer: We never worry about drowning worms. They will find dry places to hang out. If she can grow vegetables, the worms will be fine. Fully-raised beds (off the ground) do tend to get hot. She should shade it in the summer, but they will probably be fine. The worst thing that might happen is they die over the summer and she has to add more in September when they start getting cooler nights.

Question: Will chemical fertilizers hurt the worms?

Answer: In small amounts, probably not, but direct contact or a large amount could. The whole idea of worms is to let them convert organic materials into a natural source of nitrogen. The worms should reduce or eliminate the need for inorganic fertilizers. Chemical fertilizers such as inorganic nitrate salt will reduce the pH, but they also kill some of the microbes we like.

Spreading worm castings around a raised bed garden.

More frequently asked questions about in-bed vermicomposting:

Question: Can I use earthworms or do I need to use red wrigglers for in-bed vermicomposting?

Answer: Red wigglers are composting worms that hang out in the top six inches of your garden. “Earthworms” is a generic term for one of hundreds of varieties of worms. If you dig them from the garden, they won’t stay in the compost level. That’s not bad, but they won’t hang out in the habitat we set up. Most bait worms need cooler temperatures than Arizona summers. If you are buying night crawlers, you will probably lose them in June or July. We want all worms. Red wigglers will stay and live better, but no worm is bad.

Question: Can I feed my vermicomposting worms bread?

Answer: Yes. Grain-based items are fine (i.e., crackers, cooked rice, pizza crust, and bread).

Question: What do I do about cockroaches in my bins?

Answer: Cockroaches can be hard to eliminate completely, but the best bet is to aggressively cover the food waste with browns. Adding at least an inch of browns on top will help.

Want more information about composting? This article shares 10 simple steps to get you started.

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October 24, 2023
Vermicomposting Made Easy: In-Bed Worm Composting

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Worm composting directly in the garden bed simplifies the process of vermicomposting. When you use in-bed vermicomposting bins, the worms live, work, reproduce, and make worm castings in the garden bed right where they are needed.

In-bed vermicomposting solves the problem of what to do with the worms during extremes of hot and cold. For example, vermicomposting in hot weather places (like the low desert of Arizona) is difficult unless you bring the worms inside during the summer months. With in-bed vermicomposting, the worms simply burrow deeper in the beds during the heat of an Arizona summer and then emerge again in the fall.

Disclaimer: This post contains affiliate links. See my disclosure policy for more information.

How does vermicomposting work?

Worm composting – also called vermicomposting (‘vermi’ = worm) – is the process of using worms for composting food scraps into vermicompost. Worms eat up to half their weight daily in kitchen scraps, and worm castings are the byproduct of all that eating. Worm castings = GARDEN GOLD!

During digestion, the worms secrete chemicals that break organic matter into nutrition readily available for plants. Worm castings and the chemicals secreted during digestion make up vermicompost.

What are the benefits of worm composting (vermicomposting)?

Vermicompost improves soil texture and structure and aerates the soil.

Vermicompost increases the water-holding capacity of soil.

The nutrients in vermicompost are immediately available to plants.

Worm castings contribute to faster plant growth and higher production.

Worm castings are dense in microorganisms and nutrients.

The chemicals in worm castings help prevent “damping off” and other diseases.

Worm castings from vermicomposting

What is the easiest way to make and maintain a vermicomposting (worm composting) bin?

A vermicomposting bin built into your raised beds, containers, or in-ground garden bed is the easiest way to make a worm composting bin.

No need to harvest the worm castings or move the worms inside for extremes of hot and cold temperatures. The worms live, work, reproduce, and make worm castings in the garden bed, right where they are needed.

Adding worms to an in-bed worm composting bin

When should I add in-bed vermicomposting bins to by garden beds?

If you live in a hot summer climate, do not add worms during the hottest months of the year. In the low desert of Arizona, the best time to add in-bed vermicomposting bins to your garden is from mid-September through May.

When adding worms to your beds, nighttime temperatures should be in the 70’s (°F) (21-26°C).

Which type of worms should I use for in-bed vermicomposting?

Red wigglers are composting worms that hang out in the top six inches of your garden. “Earthworms” is a generic term for one of the hundreds of varieties of worms. If you dig them from the garden, they won’t stay in the compost level.

That’s not bad, but they won’t hang out in the habitat we set up. Most bait worms need cooler temperatures than Arizona summers. If you buy nightcrawlers, you will probably lose them in June or July. We want all worms. Red wigglers will stay and live better, but no worm is bad.

Purchasing red wiggler worms locally is the best choice. I get my worms from Arizona Worm Farm here in Phoenix. You can also buy them online.

How do I make an in-bed vermicomposter (worm composter)?

Supplies needed for in-bed vermicomposting:

The 24-sheet shredder I use to shred cardboard for my vermicomposting bins

Bin (see options below).

Shredded cardboard – This shredder from Amazon will shred cardboard boxes (remove tape and labels first).

Kitchen scraps.

Worms – Red wigglers are preferred. The earthworms typically found in the garden aren’t suitable for vermicomposting.

Bin options for in-bed vermicomposting:

The bin helps designate a place in your garden for the worms to go. Choose one slightly smaller than the depth of your garden bed. There are several options:

A wire garbage can with wide openings is the simplest way to add bins to your beds.

Lifting the bin out of the bed is simple when it’s time to collect the finished worm castings.

Shape hardware cloth into a cylinder slightly shorter than the depth of your garden bed.

Wire the ends of the hardware cloth together.

2-gallon bucket (with the bottom removed and holes drilled in the sides)

I used this drill bit (for drilling holes) and a Dremel (to cut off the bottom of the bucket).

If you use this type of vermicomposting bin, it is STRONGLY RECOMMENDED to remove the bottom of the bucket.

Directions for installing and using an in-bed vermicomposting bin:

1. Dig a hole in the garden bed the bin size.

2. Place the bin in the hole.

3. Fill the habitat with shredded cardboard, and wet it down. Allow cardboard to absorb moisture overnight.

5. Begin feeding worms – see worm feeding details below.

6. Cover the food scraps with a layer of “brown” materials. Examples: wood chips, dried leaves, soil, and shredded cardboard.

7. Cover the worm habitat. Use a thick layer of wood chips. You could also use a piece of wood or a tile. If you are using a bucket, the bucket lid works well.

8. Check back occasionally and add more food scraps. (Always top with browns). Remove any large pieces of uneaten food.

9. When food scraps are gone, and the bucket is empty, you can harvest the castings. (The worms will leave the bucket and migrate to other areas of the bed). Spread the castings around the garden bed. You can also leave the castings in place.

10. Begin the process over again, starting with fresh shredded cardboard, food scraps, and browns—no need to add additional worms.

How many in-bed vermicomposting bins should you have?

I have one worm habitat in each bed. One habitat per bed is enough to get a continuous flow of microbes.

You can add as many bins as you need to process your food scraps and waste, but you don’t need a high density of worms for a successful garden.

Add at least 300 worms for each habitat. 600-800 is better, if possible.

Worms multiply to fit the space and available food. In a big garden, worms will breed faster.

What do worms eat?

Good for feeding worms Avoid feeding worms

Coffee grounds, grains, tea bags, vegetables, fruit, eggshells, paper Dairy, oily food, spicy food, meat, citrus, salty foods, alcohol, glossy paper

Tips for feeding worms:

Add equal amounts of greens and browns each time you feed.

Greens

Fruit scraps, vegetable scraps, bread & pasta (small amounts), coffee grounds, crushed eggshells

Browns

Cardboard, mulch, dry leaves, shredded paper

Make sure worms have eaten previously added food scraps before adding more. Plan on feeding worms about once per week.

Cut or blend food before adding to bins. Smaller pieces of food break down faster and speed up the composting process.

Cover with browns after adding food scraps (greens) to avoid attracting fruit flies.

Remove large pieces of uneaten food. Pay attention to what the worms are eating and not eating.

The bin’s interior should have the moisture consistency of a wrung-out sponge (damp but not overly wet). Spray lightly with a hose if necessary.

Cover with a thick layer of wood chips, or replace the lid on the bucket after feeding.

Frequently asked questions about in-bed vermicomposting:

Question: I have a ton of black soldier fly larvae in both of my bins. Will they be detrimental to my red wigglers?

Answer: Black soldier flies are unusual in the Phoenix metro area because it is so dry here. They won’t hurt the worms, and within two or three weeks, they pupate into harmless flies (the live fly has no mouth – the only stage of the insect that eats is the larvae) that die within a day or two.

The larvae are voracious eaters, so someone who finds them in the bin should feed much more than normal. If they put buckets or bins in the ground like your setup, they may observe fewer worms in their bucket or bin as the worms will move away from the heat the larvae produce.

The worms are fine and will return when the larvae leave. The larvae don’t bite – if someone wanted to remove them (easiest is with a kitchen strainer) and toss them, that is a fine option too.

Question: I dug into two of the buckets to see how my worms were doing, and they were missing. Not a worm to be found in either bucket. Would you expect the worms to stay in that bucket full of compost, or have they perhaps left their original home and crawled around through the rest of my garden, maybe just coming back to the bucket for their meals?

Answer: The worms go throughout the beds, and then some are in the buckets with the scraps. I’m guessing with the intense heat we are having, they are burrowing down as deep as they can go.

Adding fresh shredded cardboard after emptying the bucket of the worm castings. The worms will return to the bins.

Question: I have two guinea pigs, and feed them alfalfa hay, organic alfalfa pellets, and leafy greens such as romaine lettuce, spinach, swiss chard, and parsley. They produce a lot of waste (approximately 1 quart of waste hay and pellets daily). I read that I can add their waste and their waste hay directly to my raised bed gardens, which I have been doing and have been digging it in with a hand spade. Will red wiggler worms compost the guinea pig waste and waste hay?

Answer: Red wigglers will eat guinea pig manure as it decomposes – and they will not eat anything that they don’t like until it decomposes enough for them to eat. A pound of worms will eat about a pound of waste a week. You will likely produce a lot more than that, but that’s not harmful either. The worms will eat what they want, and the rest will feed your beds as it has. Your current process will probably produce good results – the worms will improve it.

Full bin of food and castings. Let the worms complete the food before harvesting the castings.

More frequently asked questions about in-bed vermicomposting:

Question: How often do you have to add water to the compost buckets in Arizona heat?

Answer: The beds get watered 2-3 times a week during the summer and about once a week in the winter. The buckets are in the middle of one of the watering grids in my beds, and get watered as well.

Question: Can you add chicken poop to the buckets?

Answer: You can, in small amounts. Too much will overwhelm the worms. Just mix the poop with bedding (anything that was a tree…leaves or shredded cardboard or mulch) and they will do great.

Question: Do the finished castings seep into the garden through the holes in the bucket or does it need to be scooped out?

Answer: Both. It is carried out of the bed by the worms movement. When the worms have completed the food scraps you can also scoop the castings out and spread them around the bed. You then begin the process again, adding fresh cardboard and food scraps. The worms will come back into the bin.

Red wiggler worms are perfect for in-bed worm composting.

More frequently asked questions about in-bed vermicomposting:

Question: How do the in-bed vermicomposting worms do during the summer? Is there anything special you do to keep them cool during Arizona summers so they don’t die?

Answer: They burrow down into the beds and look for cool spots to stay cool. In-bed worm composting in Arizona is a great option for our hot summers. Beds should be at least 12 inches deep.

Question: Do you ever have problems with ants attacking the worms in the in-bed vermicomposting bins?

Answer: Ants don’t generally attack worms. By making the area a little moister, you can discourage ants and make the habitat better for the worms. You can use these ant bait traps.

Question: WIll in-bed vermicomposting work in containers?

Answer: Generally, it will work fine. The challenge with worms in pots for most people is that they tend to let plants get root bound and there is less soil than the worms like. As long as you have organic material and space for them to move they will do great. You don’t need to bury a bin in the container. You can do the same thing if you just dig out a hole and put a lid on the hole.

More frequently asked questions about in-bed vermicomposting:

Question: Can worms eat bokashi compost?

Answer: Absolutely. Done right, bokashi produces lots of microbes and breaks down waste to make it easier for the worms to consume.

Question: My bed is raised completely off the ground, due to the previous owner PLANTING Bermuda grass (sigh). I’ve been reading that these sorts of beds are not a good home for worms since they may get too hot or drown. We are in Arkansas, so it doesn’t typically get above 100, the bed has good drainage, and has a soil depth of about 10″. Do you think worms would be OK to add or no?

Answer: We never worry about drowning worms. They will find dry places to hang out. If she can grow vegetables, the worms will be fine. Fully-raised beds (off the ground) do tend to get hot. She should shade it in the summer, but they will probably be fine. The worst thing that might happen is they die over the summer and she has to add more in September when they start getting cooler nights.

Question: Will chemical fertilizers hurt the worms?

Answer: In small amounts, probably not, but direct contact or a large amount could. The whole idea of worms is to let them convert organic materials into a natural source of nitrogen. The worms should reduce or eliminate the need for inorganic fertilizers. Chemical fertilizers such as inorganic nitrate salt will reduce the pH, but they also kill some of the microbes we like.

Spreading worm castings around a raised bed garden.

More frequently asked questions about in-bed vermicomposting:

Question: Can I use earthworms or do I need to use red wrigglers for in-bed vermicomposting?

Answer: Red wigglers are composting worms that hang out in the top six inches of your garden. “Earthworms” is a generic term for one of hundreds of varieties of worms. If you dig them from the garden, they won’t stay in the compost level. That’s not bad, but they won’t hang out in the habitat we set up. Most bait worms need cooler temperatures than Arizona summers. If you are buying night crawlers, you will probably lose them in June or July. We want all worms. Red wigglers will stay and live better, but no worm is bad.

Question: Can I feed my vermicomposting worms bread?

Answer: Yes. Grain-based items are fine (i.e., crackers, cooked rice, pizza crust, and bread).

Question: What do I do about cockroaches in my bins?

Answer: Cockroaches can be hard to eliminate completely, but the best bet is to aggressively cover the food waste with browns. Adding at least an inch of browns on top will help.

Want more information about composting? This article shares 10 simple steps to get you started.

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Pamela Fair

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October 22, 2023
Warrie Price, On The Battery’s Sustainable Landscape Design

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This is part of a series with Perfect Earth Project, a nonprofit dedicated to toxic-free, nature-based gardening.

For two decades, The Battery has been a model for public parks and sustainable horticulture in New York City and beyond, proving that what we work toward at Perfect Earth Project is possible—and beautiful: You can plant drop-dead gorgeous landscapes for biodiversity. You can care for these perennial gardens without any toxic chemicals—and do it for decades. You can create and plant a playground to handle floods from ever-frequent storms. You can nurture old-growth trees. You can grow an organic farm right in the middle of downtown Manhattan and use it to teach and feed people. And, you can do all of this while welcoming millions of people 365 days of the year—for free.

Above: In 2004, Piet Oudolf, then relatively unknown, designed the master horticultural plan for The Battery.

The powerhouse behind The Battery is Warrie Price, the founder of the nonprofit Battery Conservancy, which “designs, builds, maintains, and activates” the park. It doesn’t surprise me at all when autocorrect changes “Warrie” to “warrior.” She’s been a beloved and fierce advocate for conservation and sustainable horticulture for decades. “I think we have done an extraordinary project that began so small, but then really took off because how can you not want to keep making things beautiful?” she says. “At The Battery Conservancy, we like to say we’re ‘devoted to wow.’ ”

Below, Price shares her thoughts about The Battery. [This interview has been edited and condensed for clarity.]

Photography courtesy of The Battery Conservancy.

Q: How did The Battery Conservancy begin?

A: I was asked by Betsy Barlow Rogers [founder of the Central Park Conservancy] to create a nonprofit for The Battery. The park had a master plan created by landscape architect Philip Winslow, who sadly died before the project could begin…. But there was no horticulture, no horticulturist on the team at the time, no playground, no bikeway, no urban farm. Still, it provided the guidelines, and we review it every time we make a change in the park.

Above: Thanks to the efforts of Warrie Price and The Battery Conservancy, the promenade’s cracked, barren blacktop was transformed into a perennial haven planted for biodiversity and beauty—and always taken care of without toxic chemicals.

We started with the promenade. We hired Piet Oudolf, who was not well known here at the time. He created a master horticultural plan. I think his genius is bringing the natural world into this romantic environment. In 2003, Piet first designed the Garden of Remembrance after 9/11 to honor those we lost, those who made it home safe that day, and those who would come later. It was created by private funding and a whole lot of volunteer hands. We’ve been able to enjoy them for 20 years, but they’re now about to go through reconstruction with the changes to the park. [Oudolf’s other contributions include the Bosque gardens, woodland plantings, and the bikeway.]

I think from the beginning, I wanted to make the park its own destination, not just a passageway. It was important to me personally because of its rich heritage.

Q: Why are public parks and gardens important to city life?

A: Beauty never stops healing the soul, and gardens are beautiful: green gardens, multi-color gardens—all plant life. Also, public parks and gardens in cities are unexpected, so they’re cherished. They get people to stop because there is always something of interest happening, especially in a perennial garden. When you come to The Battery every week, you’ll see the gardens change and evolve.

Above: Above: “The gardens here are the essence of what the park is. We know everyone loves the bikeway gardens. We’ve been voted number one on the most beautiful part of the Manhattan bikeway,” says Price.

Our goal at The Battery is to enhance life mentally and physically. When you physically walk through the gardens, you interchange with nature. Mentally there’s a quiet sense of what beauty does to get your mind concentrating on something. That’s an additive to good health and a good feeling versus dealing with the stress and the problems that surround you in a very urban setting.

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October 20, 2023

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Good for feeding worms	Avoid feeding worms
Coffee grounds, grains, tea bags, vegetables, fruit, eggshells, paper	Dairy, oily food, spicy food, meat, citrus, salty foods, alcohol, glossy paper

Tag: Organic Gardening

Garden Care Schedule for your Daily Gardening Routine:

1. Check the watering

Three key tips for watering:

2. Thin seedlings

3. Keep up with pruning and deadheading

4. Look for bugs: good and bad​

5. Learn to spot the first signs of disease in your garden

10 Essential Garden Tasks to Take Your Garden from Struggling to Thriving (continued)

6. Help your plants find the trellises

7. Look at the blossoms. Do you need to hand-pollinate anything?

9. Check on vermicomposting and composting bins

9. Keep up with the harvesting

10. Enjoy being in the garden

Free Printable List of 10 Essential Daily Garden Tasks

If these ideas for a garden care schedule were helpful, please share:

1. Lay seaweed down to repel snails and slugs.

2. Add edimentals to the garden.

3. Crack an egg into a planting hole.

How do we create a forest environment in the desert?

Before you begin:

4 Simple steps to fertilize fruit trees organically

Step One: Add microbes to feed your fruit trees organically

How to add microbes:

How many worm castings to add:

How to add the castings:

Step Two: Add lots of compost to fertilize fruit trees organically

What kind of compost is best for fertilizing fruit trees?

How much compost should I use to fertilize my fruit trees?

Step Three: Cover with a thick layer of mulch

Why should I add mulch when feeding my fruit trees?

How much mulch should I use?

Step Four: Water trees deeply to encourage deep roots

How much water does a fruit tree need?

How to water fruit trees:

How often should you fertilize fruit trees?

Do I need to pull back the mulch before I feed the trees again?

If this article about Organic Fruit Tree Fertilizing in Four Simple Steps was helpful, please share it:

Grow native plants in your garden.

Don’t use pesticides.

Provide nesting spots.

Look and learn.

Low Desert Arizona Garden in January​

Vegetables growing in the low desert Arizona garden in January

Tips for growing flowers in the low desert Arizona garden in January

Fruit trees in the low desert Arizona garden in January​

Herbs in the low desert Arizona garden in January ​

Low desert Arizona garden in January to-do list:​

Watering:

Pruning:

Fertilizing:

Protect from freezing temperatures (below 32° F):

Yard clean-up:

What to plant in the Arizona garden in January:​

Vegetables, Herbs & Fruit to plant in the low desert in January

Vegetable, herb, and fruit seeds to start indoors during January

(Click the link for seed sources.)

Flowers to plant in the low desert in January

Flower seeds to start indoors in the low desert in January

(Click the link for seed sources.)

Vegetable, Herb, and Fruit Planting Guide for the Low Desert of Arizona

If you found this post about Arizona gardening in January helpful, please share it:

1. Start Small:

2. Reuse and Recycle:

3. Swap Seeds and Plants:

4. Make Your Own Compost:

5. Choose Perennials When Starting Your Garden on a Budget:

6. Grow from Seeds to Save Money Gardening:

7. Use Mulch:

8. DIY Vertical Garden Structures:

9. Water Wisely:

10. Choose High-Yield Crops When Budget Gardening :

11. Use Natural Pest Control:

12. Learn and Experiment When Starting a Garden on a Budget:

If this post about how to start a garden on a budget was helpful, please share it:

Low Desert Arizona Garden in December

“The gardening season officially begins on January 1st, and ends on December 31.” – Marie Huston

Vegetables growing in the low desert Arizona garden in December

Flowers growing in the low desert Arizona garden in December

Fruit trees in the low desert Arizona garden in December

4. Look for bugs: good and bad

Low Desert Arizona Garden in January

Fruit trees in the low desert Arizona garden in January

Herbs in the low desert Arizona garden in January

Low desert Arizona garden in January to-do list:

What to plant in the Arizona garden in January:

4. Learn what and what not to compost

7. Observe the compost

8. Rotate the compost through your bins

9. Use the compost

10. Be patient with yourself as you learn how to compost