Tag: Month September Week 1

The Complete Fall Garden Checklist

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After a busy summer season of growing and producing, the garden needs some attention in the fall to maintain its beauty and health. There are a few simple fall gardening tasks that can make all the difference. Read on to see how I work the fall garden, building structure and health as a foundation for the next season.

Now that the temperature is getting cooler and the sunlight hours are shorter, it’s time to start your fall garden preparation. Many gardeners do all the heavy lifting to prepare a garden in spring, but planning and gardening in the fall are not only good for your garden, but they’re also economical!

I’ve written a lot on fall gardening, so I decided to put it all together into one convenient resource guide so that you can have all of my advice for the season at your fingertips. This fall garden checklist is a handy guide to help you wrap up your garden for winter and get ready for next year.

Your checklist includes:

Leaving parts of your garden alone is a beneficial thing to do! Let leaves go yellow and seed heads harden. By leaving plenty of healthy plant material in your garden, you help to feed garden wildlife over the winter months.

Native insects will hibernate in the leaves or leave behind eggs to hatch come spring. And when those insects emerge with warming weather, the newly returned birds will have something to munch on!

Plants naturally drop their leaves to feed the roots as they decompose. Be sure to leave some of the leaves on the soil until spring so the plants can get their nutrient boost. Seeds left in the garden provide food for birds, so allow some to drop and stay.

Beautiful seed heads (like alliums) also add winter interest, and you will be grateful to have not cut everything back to the ground.

Leaves provide a natural nutrient boost and mulch to the soil.

Mulching in the fall creates a warm blanket on the top of the soil that slowly breaks down into humus that will feed the soil.

If you have deciduous trees on your property, mulching is easy. Let the leaves fall on the garden and leave them there as mulch. You could also mulch leaves with a lawnmower or leaf vacuum, and spread the chopped-up leaves on the soil.

In the spring, the mulched leaves can be left in place when you add a layer of compost or topsoil. They will continue to feed the soil as they break down.

Remove Diseased Material

It’s good practice to remove any diseased plant material or fallen fruit to stop the spread of pests and disease in the following year.

This job should really be done throughout the year, but in the fall it is especially important to remove anything that would like to overwinter in your garden and can cause you problems in the spring.

My Carolina Allspice, which mysteriously died, needed to be trimmed.

Plant Spring Bulbs

To get a bright burst of colour come spring, you’ll need to put in some work during the fall! Many of your favourite spring flowers, such as tulips, daffodils, hyacinths, alliums, and crocus, all need to be planted in the fall to get that cold burst.

Shop catalogues or visit your garden stores to find the bulbs that you want to plant in your garden next spring. Here are some ideas of bulbs and locations to plant them that might be helpful:

All spring bulbs need to be planted in the fall.

Grow Fall and Winter Vegetables

Vegetable gardening doesn’t have to end in the fall. If you didn’t get as large a harvest as you were hoping, there are some super speedy and frost-hardy vegetables out there that can grow before the winter chill sets in.

Here are some resources on fall garden plants and last-minute vegetables you can grow in the fall, as well as overwintering favourites like garlic and broad beans.

Garlic is planted in the fall to be harvested around July.

Harvest

Possibly the most exciting garden task in the fall is harvesting. With armloads of fresh flowers and baskets of produce everywhere, you are set to the task of reaping what you have sown back at the beginning of the gardening year.

Celebrate your success and then get down to the business of harvesting and preserving herbs, vegetables, and flowers.

Extras from your harvest? Preserve them!

Save the Seeds

As your plants go to seed, it’s time to collect them! Take a look at your favourite flowers and vegetables from the season and see what you would like to include in next year’s garden.

Collect only seeds from the strongest, high-yielding plants so next year’s garden is even better than this one.

Try to collect some extra seeds to share with friends, family, and through your neighbourhood seed library. See how to in these articles on seed collecting:

And here are some free printable envelopes for your seeds (including an adorable Valentine):

Let your seeds dry completely before storing them.

Preserve the Ornamental Garden

If you’re anything like me, you’ll need a stash of natural crafting supplies to last you through the winter. From creating natural beauty recipes to infusing natural elements throughout the home, I make sure to browse my garden for supplies.

Preserve flowers, leaves, and seed pods for crafting so you will have all the materials to make handmade gifts, wreaths, or home and garden decor.

Chive and allium heads are some of the most beautiful ornamentals.

Plant Your Shrubs

Fall means it is time to plant shrubs and evergreens. The best time of year for planting is when the warm soil and cold air help to develop a strong enough root system so that they can get through the winter in their new homes.

When spring comes, the plant will be ready to send out new growth and blooms. Check out this list of 10 Hardy Shrubs You Can’t Kill.

Shrubs are often on discount in the fall as well.

Amend Soil

The garden has been working hard all summer to produce and has drawn a lot of nutrition from the soil to make those gorgeous blooms and tasty fruit. Give some of that nutrition back by amending garden soil in the fall.

Make your own compost at home using a compost bin to turn leaves, food scraps, and more into a soil amendment. Spread the compost around the garden and scratch it into the top 1”-2” of soil. From there, it will do the hard work for you.

Fall is the perfect time to amend your soil. You can scratch in an inch of compost everywhere, or brew some of your own compost tea. Plenty more details in these articles:

Add layers of compost on top, rather than disrupting the soil by mixing it in.

Fall Lawn Care

Take care of your lawn. If you think of what the natural life cycle is of grass—without us mowing it—the plants would have flowered, set seed, and dropped the seeds to the ground in order to supply new growth for the following year

As you have likely been mowing your lawn instead of letting it grow long and go to seed, it needs your help in order to continue filling in and replacing old plants.

In the fall, you should spread seeds over the lawn with a light dusting of soil over top. For more about how to care for your lawn, please see the organic guide to lawn care.

Fall is the perfect time to fill patchy areas of grass.

Plan Your Garden (on a Budget)

It’s never too late to start your fall garden! Another way to build your garden economically is to shop for new plants in the fall.

Many of the garden centres will be closing their doors for the year, or at least moving out the warm-season stock. They don’t want to spend the time and effort taking care of the plants until next spring, so all fall garden plants will be heavily discounted.

Even better news is that fall is the perfect time to plant perennials, evergreens, trees, and shrubs! Read more about that here: Fall Perennial Gardening: Garden Design on a Budget

Get some fall annuals while you’re at it!

Divide Perennials

One of the ways to save money in the garden is to get your plants for free! Dividing perennials increases your plant stock but also helps them to fill in, improve blooming, and avoid overcrowding. For the healthiest perennials, dividing them in the fall is an essential fall task.

Not all perennials need to be cut back, but take stock of those that are looking overcrowded or too large for the space. Many perennials thrive by being divided, especially if they are crowded.

To divide perennials, dig up the plant and all of its roots. Then, gently shake the soil from the roots and look for where the plant can easily be split into divisions. Plant those around your garden in the fall, and they will look gorgeous next year.

You want to divide your perennials when they’re under the least amount of stress, which usually is the fall.

Move Tender Plants Inside

If you have any special plants that aren’t the right hardiness for your zone, now is the time to move them inside to a garage, greenhouse, or inside the house. Personally, I like to bring some of my herbs and succulents inside!

Tender plants are best planted in pots so you can move them for the cold season.

Fall is a great time to give your garden tools a good scrubbing. Wash hand tools like trowels and rakes with soapy water and a scouring sponge. Use a power washer to get large tools really clean. And take good care of your pruners with these tips to clean and sharpen pruners.

You will also want to wrap up your garden hose, making sure to fully drain it of any water before curling it up. Take a look through your garden and make sure you bring in any tools that may have been left out for the summer.

Make sure everything is fully dry before storing it.

Winterize your Water Feature

Don’t forget the water! Your fountain or pond will need some fall care as well, and you can see how to do in this guide. Some places may also want to consider turning off water to their outdoor faucets to prevent potential freezing.

Water features need special attention before the cold sets in.

Free Fall Garden Checklist Printable

Whew! There you have it! A whole lot of tips and tasks for gardening in the fall for a gorgeous backyard. Did I miss something or do you have a question about your garden specifically? Leave me a comment and I’ll do my best to get you some answers!

In the meantime, if you’d like a FREE printable of the fall garden checklist, click the download button below.

Download the Fall Garden Checklist Printable

More Fall Gardening Tips

A city girl who learned to garden and it changed everything. Author, artist, Master Gardener. Better living through plants.

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Stephanie Rose

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September 12, 2025
Homemade Fruit and Vegetable Wash Recipe – Garden Therapy
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Unless it’s homegrown, we know so little about where our produce really comes from. To ensure you remove all traces of pesticides and herbicides, as well as prolong shelf life, I recommend using a fruit and vegetable wash. This homemade recipe uses only 4 ingredients, all staples you are sure to have in your pantry already!

Do you ever pick up a fruit or vegetable from the grocery store and already feel the gunk from its surface on your hands? Even after I rinse an apple or nectarine, I still feel as though something is lingering there.

I like to use my fruit and vegetable wash to ensure that all my produce is completely free from any surface contaminants, such as herbicides and pesticides. Even with my own organic produce, I feel more comfortable making sure they are 100% clean before I store them away in my fridge.

The good news is, washing fruit only takes a few minutes and doesn’t have to be a huge and annoying step in a grocery store routine. All you need are a few quick sprays of my vegetable and fruit wash.

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This veggie wash only requires four ingredients.

Is Fruit and Veggie Wash Necessary?

When it comes to the garden, I don’t mind popping homegrown fruit and veggies straight from the plant to my mouth. I use only organic gardening methods, meaning no pesticides, herbicides, and only natural fertilizers. This makes me feel safe about my veggies!

But when it comes to large harvests, I still like to wash my vegetables. Since I live in the city, I never truly know 100% what is in my soil at any given time. If you use any kind of herbicides or pesticides, I highly recommend giving them a wash beforehand.

Plain tap water works just fine for removing debris and dirt, but a fruit and vegetable wash helps to remove the more difficult stuff, such as apple wax and surface-level pesticides.

It’s important to note that vegetables and fruits usually have some microorganisms on them. In most cases, washing produce removes these organisms, prolonging their life. However, some fruit and vegetables have their own protective measures. For example, blueberries have bloom, the fine powdery covering that allows them to fight off bacteria and fungus that would cause premature decay.

If you live in the city, it’s still a good idea to use a wash to remove surface pollutants.

When To Use Fruit Wash

Most fruit and vegetables can be washed when they come home from the grocery store. I like to wash produce with the skin on, like avocados and beets, right away. I remove packaged goods, like raspberries or cherry tomatoes, completely before washing them. Make sure all produce dries before storing it in the fridge or pantry.

Others you may want to wait to wash until just before eating to prolong the shelf life. For fresh fruit such as apples, grapes, blueberries, and tomatoes, I like to wait to keep the protective bloom I mentioned earlier. The same goes for kale!

For more on when and how to properly wash vegetables, visit this post.

Wash fresh fruit shortly before you plan on eating it.

How Does Veggie Wash Work?

When you soak vegetables and fruits in an acidic solution, it helps to remove bacteria and any surface-level pesticides. This recipe uses both vinegar and citric acid to lower the pH. This helps to further break down any wax left on produce as well as any contaminants left on the surface.

A fruit and vegetable wash that’s made of a combination of acid and salt makes it easier to remove some of the waxes, chemical sprays, and dirt that can stick to produce when it comes home from the grocery store.

The ingredients in this fruit and vegetable wash help to get produce squeaky clean without adding an off-putting flavour.

Acid and salt combined help to remove surface contaminants easily.

Fruit and Vegetable Wash Recipe

This recipe is so quick and easy to make. It uses common grocery store ingredients that you may already have in your pantry. Keep it handy in the kitchen for any quick produce trips!

Materials & Ingredients

See the recipe card below for exact measurements.

Make it!

Measure the warm water. Add citric acid and salt.

Stir until both are fully dissolved.

Add vinegar and mix ingredients well together. Pour the mixture into a spray bottle.

Store on a counter for up to 3 months.

How to Use

Spray produce 2-3 times, let it rest for two minutes, and then rinse off with tap water before consuming.

While this fruit and vegetable wash tastes rather good (if you like salt and vinegar flavoured chips), it will not change or affect the flavour of the fruit. As long as it’s applied as described, even soft skin fruit like strawberries and raspberries will not take on the salt and vinegar flavour.

DIY Veggie Wash Storage

This vinegar-based wash will keep for three months on your counter or in a cabinet. Simply give it a shake before spraying to disperse the ingredients. However, if your veggie wash changes colour or has a strange aroma, it should be discarded.

More Natural Cleaning Ideas to Try
Fruit and Vegetable Wash

Makes 2 1/2 cups of fruit and vegetable wash.

Measure out your warm water. Add in your citric acid and salt, stirring until fully dissolved.

Add in vinegar, stirring again. Pour into a glass spray bottle.

To use, spray produce 2-3 times. Let sit for a couple of minutes before rinsing produce with cold water.

Use cleaner within 3 months. Discard if odour arises or colour changes.
A city girl who learned to garden and it changed everything. Author, artist, Master Gardener. Better living through plants.
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Stephanie Rose

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September 11, 2025
DIY Espalier Wood Privacy Screen for the Backyard – Garden Therapy
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Privacy screens can be a garden feature that takes up only a small footprint, but attracts a ton of attention. You can build a wood privacy screen yourself with a few easy-to-find materials and get growing with an espaliered climbing shrub that looks beautiful for all four seasons.

This post will cover…

If you have a small urban lot or a close proximity to your neighbours’ yards, you may also need to create a sense of privacy in your outdoor oasis. While I love using trees and large shrubs to frame the perimeter of the garden, they can take up space.

I had a large Carolina Allspice growing on the East side of my urban yard that bloomed many deep red, peach-scented flowers each year in June and pulled double-duty by creating privacy in the yard.

Carolina Allspice

For some reason, this usually tidy shrub grew to mammoth proportions, and it completely filled up the fence that divides us from the neighbour’s deck. It acted as a wonderful framework to the back of the garden and a privacy screen in the summer months when we needed it most.

And then, last summer, one of the branches died back. And then another branch, and another. By fall, all of the leaves and branches had died, and I couldn’t find a single reason why. All of the surrounding plants were healthy, and we didn’t have any unusual weather. It remains a mystery.

I hoped that it would grow back this year, but, sadly, it did not. It’s sad to say goodbye to a tree or shrub from the garden that has provided so much enjoyment and purpose. It was time for a new solution.

The Carolina Allspice died, leaving little privacy between our house and the neighbours.

I decided on a wood privacy screen because I wanted something instant to fill up the space. This large, freestanding cedar trellis was the perfect solution. I had an evergreen Wintercreeper growing in the garden that I was able to transplant and espalier on the trellis.

I can grow the branches all the way up to the top and let them fill out into a mass of green and white leaves, or I can continue to prune it into an espalier shape, keeping the leaves tidy.

Since pruning is one of my favourite gardening jobs, I’ll certainly be working on its form as an espalier. You can read more about espaliers here.

The wintercreeper was pruned into an espalier shape.

How to Build a Freestanding Wood Privacy Screen

The most important part of building any structure is ensuring that its foundation is strong enough to prevent it from tipping or blowing over on a windy day. A good rule of thumb is to dig each post hole at least 1/3 the depth of the fence’s height. For this project, the privacy screen is 11’ tall, and so the post holes need to be at least 3’6” deep.

Many fence posts are built by placing the actual post in the post hole and pouring concrete around it, but for this project, we chose to seat the posts onto post saddles instead to help keep the posts out of the soil and water. This will reduce the risk of the posts rotting prematurely.

Dimensions: 11 feet high x 8 feet wide – adjust for your space

The finished cedar wood privacy screen

Materials
- (3) 4”x4”x12’ – pressure treated
- (2) 2”x4”x8’ – pressure treated
- (15) 1”x4”x8’ – cedar
- (15) 1”x2”x8’ – cedar
- (1) 1”x4”x12’ – cedar
- (about 16) 60 lb bag of concrete
- 12”x12’ concrete forming tubes
- 1½” and 3” deck screws
- (2) galvanized post saddles
- (8) ½”x2” galvanized lag bolts
- (4) ½”x6” galvanized lag bolts
- (2) 6’ galvanized angle iron
- Gravel
Tools
- Shovel or post hole digger
- Wheelbarrow or concrete mixer
- Circular saw
- Levels
- Hammer
- Drill
- Scrap 2”x4”
- Stepladder that will allow you to safely reach at least 12’ high.
Make It!

Prepare Concrete Footers and Saddles
1. Dig two holes 7’2” apart on center, 3’5” deep, and 14” wide. Make sure that you are using the right digging tool and technique for your project and your body.
2. Cut a concrete forming tube into two 3’8” lengths, place each tube into the post holes, and make sure that the top of the tubes are above grade.
3. Backfill around the outside of each tube with dirt.
4. Tamp down the bottom of each hole and pour in 3” gravel.
5. Pour about 6 bags of prepared concrete into each tube while periodically tamping the concrete.
6. Round the top of each concrete footer away from the center to prevent rainwater from pooling.
7. Insert post saddles into the center of each concrete footer. There should be about a 1” gap between the bottom of the saddle and the top of the concrete footer to prevent the post from contacting water and soil and prematurely rotting. Ensure that the post saddles are level vertically, horizontally, and with each other.
1. Allow the concrete to cure.
End of step 1, preparing the concrete footers and saddles.

Attach the Privacy Screen Posts
1. Cut two 4”x4”x12’ pressure-treated posts to 11’.
2. Seat each post onto the saddle and level them vertically.
3. Stabilize the posts with scrap 2”x4” anchored to both the posts and the ground to ensure that they stay level while completing the rest of the privacy screen structure.
4. Use 2” galvanized lag bolts to firmly attach the posts to the saddles.
Use a level to ensure the posts stay straight.
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Stephanie Rose

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September 9, 2025
How to Make GORGEOUS Bleached Pinecones
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If you want a simple, pretty way to dress up your home for the season, forage some pinecones and give them this easy makeover! Bleached pinecones can add a touch of woodland whimsy to any space in your home. Here’s how to make them in minutes!

Are you a squirrel? Do you pick up chestnuts, seed pods, and pinecones every time you go for a walk and add them to your collection? I certainly do, and pinecones are one of my favorites. They come in so many different shapes and sizes, from almost-round stubbies to giant oblong cones.

Pinecones are iconic natural items to use for seasonal decor, whether you adorn a wreath with them or simply display your collection in a pretty basket. Instead of painting or bedazzling them with glitter this year, try giving them a softer, weathered look by bleaching your pinecones!

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A regular vs a bleached pine cone. It’s quite the difference!

How to Make Bleached Pinecones

Bleaching pinecones requires very few supplies and is an easy project. Even so, it does take some time. When I started researching how I should tackle this process, I came across many people who said it didn’t work for them. Don’t worry, for the sake of crafting science, I will guide you on how to successfully bleach pinecones to use in your holiday decor!

Bleaching pinecones is simple, but it takes some time to let the process happen

Materials
- Pinecones (various shapes and sizes)
- Bleach
- Large bucket
- Water
- Rubber Gloves
- Bricks or large rocks
Pinecones will turn various stages of white depending on how long you leave them in the bleach solution.

Make It!

It doesn’t matter what type of pinecones you use. I gathered several different species and sizes. Each species of pinecone will bleach differently. Also, bleaching them will not turn them totally white. They will become lighter, but not pure white. It’s more of a patina or weathered look (kind of like driftwood).

Different pinecones will turn white differently.

I used two parts water to one part bleach. It’s best to do this part outside or in a well-ventilated area because of the fumes. Make sure you are wearing clothes that you don’t mind ruining just in case you splash yourself with bleach water, and wear rubber gloves to protect your hands.

Put the pinecones in a large bucket (I used a 5 gallon utility bucket). Fill the bucket with water first and then add the bleach. The cones will float. Push them back down into the bleach water and lay the bricks or stones on top. You might have to add another rock or two and tuck any floaters back under the rocks.

Let the pinecones sit in the bleach solution for 24 hours, but no more than that. I did a check after 12 hours or so and noticed some of my smaller pinecones were already whitish.

Pinecones close up when they are wet, so if you can’t see any change because they are closed, that doesn’t mean it’s not working. Let them sit submerged in the bleach water for the entire 24 hours for the full effect. Any longer than that, and the pinecones will start to deteriorate in some spots.

Use rocks to help weigh down your pinecones and keep them submerged in the bleach water.

After 24 hours, put on your gloves and work/craft clothes and remove the bleached pinecones. I laid them out on a large piece of paper outdoors so the fumes would dissipate. To dispose of the bleach water, I poured mine in a bathtub slowly, being careful not to let any twigs or dirt go down the drain.

Let them dry outside first to let the fumes dissipate.

Drying Pinecones

As they dry, the bleached pinecones will start to open up again. If it’s a sunny day, perfect! Leave them outside to completely dry. It can take a few days for them to fully open.

If you are in a hurry or have a stretch of wet weather, you can dry them in your oven. Set your oven to the lowest setting (it’s usually 170-200°F) and let the pinecones dry for a couple of hours. As soon as they are open, remove them.

As they dry, you will be amazed at the transformation! Once dry, bleached pinecones get a silvery sheen that makes them perfect for any holiday crafting. They are even pretty on their own, displayed in a tall vase or bowl. However you decide to use them, making bleached pinecones is a simple project that yields beautiful results.

Pinecones will open up and appear more white/silvery as they dry.

What to Do With Bleached Pinecones

And just look at what you can do with them! I made this wreath entirely out of bleached pinecones. Carefully store it, and you can use it year after year for your fall and winter decorating.

You can also make an outdoor decoration like this Simple & Elegant Natural Pinecone Swag. Combine it with fresh evergreens for a quick but beautiful seasonal decor.

You can also make some pinecone spheres. I used untreated pinecones for mine, but it would also look amazing with the bleached effect.

FAQs About Bleached Pinecones

UPDATE: After posting this originally, we got a lot of questions about bleached pinecones, so here are the answers to your bleached pinecone FAQs:

Will my pinecones smell like bleach?

Nope, not once they dry. Bleach dissipates quickly in the air, so although making the pinecones is a stinky process that should be done outdoors or with good ventilation, once they are dry, the bleach smell will go away.

What kind of pinecones should I use?

The results of this project will vary with different pinecones, and I suggest trying a bunch of different kinds until you get a final product that you like. In my experience, really fresh pinecones don’t take to bleach as well, and it’s best to use those that are older, dry, and fully open.

Is bleaching pinecones safe?

The final product is very safe, but as with any project that involves bleach, make sure to take appropriate safety precautions. Work in a well-ventilated area, and when you leave the pinecones to soak, keep them somewhere that will not be accessible to children or pets.

More Seasonal Decor Ideas To Try
How to Bleach Pinecones

Bleached pinecones are simple to make and can add a touch of woodland whimsey to any space.

Add pinecones to a large bucket.

While outside, or in a well-ventilated area, add 2 parts water to 1 part bleach to the bucket.

To keep pinecones submerged in the mixture, lay bricks or large stones over them.

Let the pinecones soak in the mixture for 24 hours. Then, use your gloves to gently remove the bleached pinecones and place them on a roll of paper to dry out and allow fumes to dissipate.

It may take a few days for the pinecones to dry naturally. If you need them to dry faster, set your oven to the lowest setting and let them dry for a few hours.
Debbie Wolfe is a mom of two rambunctious boys, wife, and work-at-home mom from Georgia. In her free time (when there is such a thing), she is in the garden or hidden away reading the latest post-apocalyptic sci-fi drama! As interests, Debbie is an obsessive crafter, home chef, and gardener. She is a freelance writer, blogger, and is a co-author and photographer behind the garden blog, The Prudent Garden; a collection of tips, crafts, and articles that highlight home gardening.
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Debbie Wolfe

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September 8, 2025
Plant These Speedy Fall Vegetables for a Last Hurrah!

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Yes! You can still plant fall vegetables to harvest and eat this year! There is still time in the late summer and early fall to plant fast-growing edible plants in your vegetable garden and have them on your plate in just 15-30 days.

There are many fall vegetables that you can get planted late in the season. And no, not just sprouts (but those are good too).

These super nutritious garden growers are speedy enough to make something healthy and delicious for dinner in just a few weeks, even when planted from seed.

Flavourful greens like spinach, arugula, Swiss chard, and mustard grow so fast that baby greens can be ready for harvest in just three to four weeks.

Root veggies like radishes are known for their zip in spice and growing speed, but baby carrots, turnips, and beets also make it from soil to table pretty fast. Tender young turnips and beet greens are delightful in salads as well.

But I’m getting ahead of myself! Here are the vegetables you can plant for a fall harvest.

Fall is also the time to harvest your long growers, like pumpkin and squash.

10 Speedy Fall Vegetables

On this list, you’ll find many greens. The other thing that most people don’t consider is that you often don’t have to wait for vegetables to reach maturity to enjoy. Why not enjoy them baby-sized!?

1. Baby Carrots

30 Days

For fall baby carrots, plant the seeds more densely than the instructions on the seed packet say. Harvest when the root is no more than three to four inches long, which is when baby carrots are at their sweetest and most tender.

I love a rainbow blend for carrots!

2. Beets

45 Days for Baby Greens, 60 Days for Baby Roots

Pick baby beet greens when they are about four inches long (you can go smaller if you want to eat them fresh in salads or pick larger leaves for cooking).

If you want to grow baby beetroots as well, only harvest one leaf from each plant as you wait for the roots to plump up underground. When the beets reach one inch in diameter, they are ready to eat. Pickle or roast them whole, or slice them small and add to salads fresh.

3. Radishes

21 Days

Radishes are fabulously fast-growing root vegetables. Just three weeks in the ground and they are ready to harvest and eat. Try them raw in salads and thinly-sliced in sandwiches, pickle them, or roast them in butter for a real treat.

4. Turnips

40 Days for Baby Greens, 80 Days for Baby Roots

Harvest baby greens when they are young and tender. The roots are ready to eat when they reach a one-inch diameter. Turnip baby greens are delicious in salads or pesto. Eat the roots fresh, steamed, or roasted.

5. Swiss Chard

30 Days

Harvest the Swiss chard leaves when they are three inches long to eat fresh in salads, wraps, and sandwiches, or wait about 60 days until the leaves are ten inches long and steam them in garlic and butter for a delicious side dish.

Swiss chard grows well in cold climates, so it doesn’t mind the cool fall weather.

6. Spinach

30 Days

Spinach won’t grow well in the heat of the summer, so it is a flavour that I always look forward to in the fall when temperatures are low enough to produce tasty, tender leaves. Sow densely and harvest the leaves when they fan out. Eat fresh, or steamed with a little butter and salt. Yum!

7. Kale

30 Days

Kale can overwinter and become sweeter after the frost, so plant it in the fall for winter and harvest the tender baby leaves to eat before the temperature drops. Add kale to salads, wraps, sandwiches, and soups, or sauté it with a squirt of lemon or a drizzle of balsamic vinegar.

I like to plant a second round of kale mid to late summer to enjoy in the fall.

8. Mustard Greens

20 Days

Mustard greens are as ornamental as they are tasty, with their frilly foliage in shades of green and red. Plant densely and harvest the young, tender leaves. These spicy greens will add a punch to fresh dishes.

9. Lettuce

20 Days

Sow a mix of lettuce seeds densely for a cut-and-come-again salad garden. Snip micro greens as soon as true leaves have formed if you like, and about a week after that, you’ll have baby lettuce leaves to eat up.

This lettuce is already ready to eat after a few weeks.

10. Arugula

28 Days

Plant and harvest baby arugula the same way you do lettuce. Its spicy, nutty flavour pairs perfectly with warm roasted veggies topped with Parmesan and olive oil. For a fresh kick, add it to a tomato-heavy salad.

FAQ About Planting Fall Vegetables

What vegetables are in season in the fall?

It’s always a good idea to stock up on vegetables when they’re in season, and to enjoy them while they’re fresh and taste the best. In the fall, some seasonal vegetables include carrots, turnips, parsnips, beets, broccoli, cauliflower, Brussel sprouts, cabbage, celery, eggplant, zucchini, chard, kale, lettuce, spinach, green beans, onions, potatoes, radishes, peppers, pumpkins, squash, and wild mushrooms.

Should I sow my fall vegetables directly into the ground?

Yes! These speedy vegetables all like cooler temperatures and will do best directly sown. Starting them indoors would just slow you down.

When can I plant fall vegetables?

If you really want to plan ahead, you can begin to plant fall vegetables when there’s about a month of hot weather left. Most fall vegetables (like greens) prefer cooler temperatures, but warm temperatures will encourage the seeds to sprout, while they will reach maturity in the cooler temperatures they prefer.

With these fast-growing fall veggies, you can still feast on garden-fresh produce for months to come. Hey, but you can still grow edibles indoors too if you want!

More Tips for Fall Gardening

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Stephanie Rose

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September 13, 2024
Nourishing and Natural Hair Serum Recipe with Rosemary and Jojoba
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If you only use shampoo and conditioner, or [gasp] shampoo alone as your hair care routine, then please let me introduce you to hair serum. A hair serum is an essential product for shiny hair and a healthy scalp. This natural hair serum recipe is made with a few ingredients like rosemary, lavender, jojoba oil, and argan oil each specifically included for their herbal benefits to hair.

If you’ve never used a hair serum, you might not know how beneficial it is! This natural hair serum recipe couldn’t be more versatile. It can be used in many ways to treat many different hair types.

If you have a dry scalp, massaging with this hair serum is a great way to rehydrate it. A scalp massage with this hair serum can also stimulate the hair follicles.

Beyond your scalp, this hair serum is ideal for putting in your hair itself, and it can be used in a number of different ways. It can be applied to dry hair to help with flyaways and frizz control.

Or it can be applied to wet hair, either as an oil treatment to protect it when blow-drying or to leave in and help curls to set.

This hair serum can work in many different ways for both short and long hair and even no hair! We spend so much time washing the natural oils that protect our hair, so a hair serum helps to replenish and protect hair, bringing it back to life with the benefits of herbs like rosemary and lavender.

This post will cover…

The Benefits of My Natural Hair Serum

This hair serum is made with the jojoba oil and argan oil with the addition of rosehip seed oil and essential oils.
- Jojoba oil is the closest to our skins own sebum and so it is tolerated well by most people and a good carrier oil for hair and scalp treatments.
- Argan oil is full of vitamins and nutrients that help t make hair softer, shinier, more manageable and less frizzy.
- Rosehip seed oil is rich with antioxidants that help with the hair follicles and stimulate hair growth.
Herbs like rosemary, lavender and helichrysum are often used in hair care products for their antibacterial and antifungal properties that stimulate the scalp and repair the strands.
- Rosemary is known as the herb for hair. It’s a circulatory stimulant and can often be used to promote hair growth and follicle health. It’s antibacterial and antifungal, which can help with conditions that make the scalp itchy. And it stimulates shine, especially in dark hair.
- Lavender also has antibacterial and anti-fungal properties, but it is also very calming and can reduce inflammation.
- Helichrysum helps to stimulate hair growth, aids in reducing inflammation, and supports the skin and hair.
Together, these natural oils are SO healthy for your hair.

Natural Hair Serum Recipe with Rosemary and Jojoba

I used to spend a small fortune on a yummy-smelling hair oil that I bought from my stylist. I ran just a small dab of it through my wet hair before drying, and it made my hair silky and smooth.

But after a few months of using it, my hair was dryer than ever, and it seemed like it wouldn’t absorb the oil or even water any longer. A peek at the ingredients in the hair “oil” alerted me to why.

I was coating my hair in silicone. This made my hair shiny and smooth at first, but soon, each hair was so coated in silicone that it would no longer absorb water. Clearly, it was time to make my own hair serum.

Ingredients

See exact measurements in recipe card below.

Jump to Recipe

Make It!

Add all ingredients into a 1 oz glass jar with a pump or dropper. Shake to mix.

To Use
- For dry, itchy scalps and follicle treatment, apply two drops to the palm of your hand. Rub the drop between both hands and use your fingertips to massage it into the scalp. If possible, allow the treatment to stay on overnight, then wash as usual in the morning.
- For flyaways and frizz control, apply 1-2 drops evenly to dry hair after styling.
- For a deep oil treatment before blow drying, apply 1-2 drops evenly to wet hair.
- To help set curls, apply 1-2 drops evenly to wet hair before drip drying.
I have naturally curly and dry hair, and this has made the world of a difference for it.

Natural Hair Serum FAQ

Can I use olive oil instead of hair serum?

Olive oil won’t damage your hair, but it’s quite a heavy oil. It might make your hair too oily after using it. I prefer this combination of oils since it’s lighter but effective, and they all contain special benefits specifically for hair.

Can I use a hair serum daily?

You definitely can! I tend to apply my hair serum after I wash my hair (which I don’t do every day). It can also be useful for styling, which you may or may not do every day. The amount you use will depend on how dry your hair is, but I tend to just use 1-2 drops for everyday use.

What does a hair serum do?

A hair serum will help to keep your hair moisturized, much like conditioners, but you usually don’t wash it out. It can be used a deep treatment, or can help to smooth out hair while blow drying. Most hair types can benefit from using a hair serum.

More Haircare Recipes to Try

Natural Hair Serum With Rosemary and Jojoba

Full of antioxidants and with antibacterial and antifungal properties, this natural hair serum will leave your hair feeling healthy and shiny.
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Stephanie Rose

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September 12, 2024
Beyond Tulips: 12 Extraordinary Spring Flowering Bulbs to Plant in Fall
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If you like tulips then there are a number of other spring flowering bulbs that you will love! This list showcases flower bulbs that are super early bloomers, have stop-you-in-your-tracks fragrance, or produce unique flowers that give tulips a run for their money. Why not plant some of these bulbs this fall and create a stunning spring garden?

Tulips are wonderful plants. Frilly parrot tulips, deep-dark-almost-black purple tulips, cheery giant tulips, and many more can be found in my garden beds.

But tulips aren’t the only spring flowering bulbs I give space to in my garden. I get just as much (maybe even more) enjoyment out of these outstanding spring bloomers. And fall is the time to get them in the ground!

If you really want to make your spring a magical one, try planting some of these more unique and beautiful bulbs in your lawn…in addition to the tulips!

This post will cover…

Bulbs already sprouted? That’s quite alright. Still pop it in the ground.

Sponsored Content: I’m proudly partnering with FlowerBulbs.com to share this list of extraordinary spring flowering bulbs to plant in the fall. FlowerBulbs.com’s goal is to help spread information and love for gardening through bulbs. While I was creating this list of the bulbs I grow in my garden, I used the site as a resource for the growing information and some gorgeous photos. While this list is a compilation of my 12 favourite bulbs, corms, and tubers to plant in fall, there are many more to search through in FlowerBulbs.com’s spring database.

Bulbs, Corms, and Tubers

If you are scanning this list, you might feel compelled to shout, “Hey, that’s not a bulb!” I get it; words are important, especially when writing about plants.

Botanically, tulips grow from bulbs, but other plants that could be considered “flower bulbs” actually grow from corms (like crocuses) or tubers (like dahlias). Read more about this differentiation in this post on How to Plant Fall Bulbs.

Snowdrop (Galanthus spp.)

Snowdrops are close to my heart because they are the very first flower that shows its head in late winter, letting us know that spring is close at hand.

These delicate white and green bell-shaped flowers may seem unassuming, but in the winter, when everything else is gray and brown and dreary, their sweet stalks and blooms are like a breath of fresh air.

Snowdrop bulbs can be hard to find in the fall, but if you’re lucky enough to stumble upon some at your local garden center, buy them and get them in the ground as soon as possible because they can dry out easily.
- USDA zone: 3-8
- Type of bulb: true bulb
- Flower colour: white
- Flowering period: February – March
- Average plant height: 10 inches
- Planting depth to base of bulb: 4 inches
- Spacing between bulbs: 2 inches
- Light requirements: full to partial shade
- Landscape uses: borders, rock gardens, under trees and shrubs, and in lawn
Early to bloom, snowdrops are January’s birthflower.

Snowflake (Leucojum vernum)

Snowflakes are similar to snowdrops in how early they bloom, although they have six equal-length petals and are a much rarer bulb to come by. They love moist soil and are perfect planted beside a pond or water garden. These are well-suited for the rainy winter conditions of my Vancouver garden.
- USDA zone: 3-8
- Type of bulb: true bulb
- Flower colour: white
- Flowering period: February – March
- Average plant height: 8 inches
- Planting depth to base of bulb: 4 inches
- Spacing between bulbs: 5 inches
- Light requirements: partial shade
- Landscape uses: borders, rock gardens, under shrubs and trees, and as cut flowers
Photo courtesy of flowerbulbs.com. Snowflakes naturalize easily in the garden.

Dutch Hyacinth (Hyacinthus spp.)

Dutch hyacinths are not only gorgeous with their tightly clustered bell-shaped flowers in many colours options, but they also have the most heavenly perfume!

In the Victorian era, hyacinths were revered for their scent. It was common to devote an entire garden to these fragrant flowers alone. Plant in full sun or partial shade and they will bloom in early spring.
- USDA zone: 4-8
- Type of bulb: true bulb
- Flower colour: red, pink, orange, salmon, yellow, purple, white and blue
- Flowering period: March – April
- Average plant height: 10 inches
- Planting depth to base of bulb: 8 inches
- Spacing between bulbs: 6 inches
- Light requirements: full sun to partial shade
- Landscape uses: beds and borders
Photo courtesy of flowerbulbs.com. In the right conditions, hyacinths can be perennial bulbs.

Grape Hyacinth (Muscari armeniacum)

Grape hyacinths are not at all related to Dutch hyacinths; they are the Muscari genus, which has about 30 different species. While they are all prolific bulbs that naturalize easily, the colours can range from white to deep blue and, of course, grape-purple.

Muscari look beautiful when planted in rivers through gardens, and they do extremely well in containers. The individual blooms may be diminutive, but grown together they are absolutely stunning. They’re part of my flower bulb lawn!

Grape hyacinths bloom longer than most other spring flowering bulbs too. They make a great cut flower, they provide an early nectar source for pollinators (except for the double ones) and they are deer and rabbit resistant.
- USDA zone: 4-8
- Type of bulb: true bulb
- Flower colour: blue, purple or white
- Flowering period: March-May, depending on the species
- Average plant height: 4 – 10 inches
- Planting depth to base of bulb: 5 inches
- Spacing between bulbs: 8 cm
- Light requirements: full sun to partial shade
- Landscape uses: borders, rock gardens, and under shrubs and trees
Grape hyacinth may not be tall, but they naturalize and last a long time in the garden compared to other bulbs.

Checkered Lily (Fritillaria meleagris)

Fritillaria meleagris is sometimes called Checkered Lily or Snake Lily. It looks exotic with its downward-facing, bell-shaped flowers in purple and white checkers.

It does well in the shade and thrives in moist soil. I visited a woodland garden where it naturalized easily, and the masses of checkers beneath the mossy trees were picture-perfect. Fritillaria blooms in mid-spring.
- USDA zones: 3-8
- Type of bulb: true bulb
- Flower colour: purple or white
- Flowering period: April – May
- Average plant height: 10 inches
- Planting depth to base of bulb: 4 inches
- Spacing between bulbs: 2 inches
- Light requirements: full sun to partial shade
- Landscape uses: borders, rock gardens, lawns, under trees and shrubs, and perennial beds
Photo courtesy of flowerbulbs.com. These bulbs are usually sold in mixed colours.

Imperial Fritillaria (Fritillaria imperialis)

Imperial Fritillaria is every bit as weird to plant as it is to enjoy in the garden. The bulbs are large, and they do not smell good, so you will want to get them planted as soon as they arrive.

This also keeps them from getting damaged if the roots begin to sprout. They have a distinctive musky smell when blooming, which isn’t for everyone but that scent deters moles, deer, and squirrels. I personally enjoy planting them because they look like they are wearing crowns.
- USDA zones: 4-8
- Type of bulb: true bulb
- Flower colour: yellow, orange-red and red
- Flowering period: April – May
- Average plant height: 40 inches
- Planting depth to base of bulb: 8 inches
- Spacing between bulbs: 12 inches
- Light requirements: full sun to partial shade (some shade is particularly important in warmer climatic zones)
- Landscape uses: perennial beds and borders
This is one of the earliest plants to be cultivated.

Oxalis (Oxalis adenophylla)

Oxalis are lovely plants for both foliage and flowers. Known as Silver Shamrocks, they have pretty clover-like leaves and pink blooms. In the right conditions they are trouble-free plants that naturalize easily, resist pests and disease, and are even deer and rabbit proof. They are happy in sun or part shade, as long as there is excellent drainage. Rock gardens and pots are perfect for oxalis.
- USDA zones: 4-9
- Type of bulb: tuber
- Flower colour: pink
- Flowering period: June – July
- Average plant height: 3 inches
- Planting depth to base of bulb: 4 inches
- Spacing between bulbs: 4 inches
- Light requirements: full sun to partial shade
- Landscape uses: borders and rock gardens
Photo courtesy of flowerbulbs.com. Oxalis originally comes from Chili and Argentina.

Dutch Iris (Iris × hollandica)

Dutch Iris produces elegant, deep blue or purple flower heads atop long, slender stalks, creating a stunning display that’s not to be missed. In Greek mythology, the goddess Iris represented the link between heaven and earth, and it’s no wonder these heavenly flowers bear her name now. Plant in a sunny area in early fall. Irises attract pollinators and make beautiful cut flowers.
- USDA zones: 6-9
- Type of bulb: true bulb
- Flowering colour: deep and light blue, purple, yellow and white
- Flowering period: June – July
- Average plant height: 24 inches
- Planting depth to base of bulb: 6 inches
- Spacing between bulbs: 10
- Light requirement: full sun
- Landscape uses: beds, borders, and as cut flowers
They also do well when grown in containers.

Crocus (Iridaceae spp.)

Crocuses are a member of the iris family and one of the first flowers to bloom in the spring. They are beautiful and can be planted in the garden bed or directly in the lawn for a meadowy look (they’ll start to die back by the time the lawn comes in enough to need mowing).

They are also wonderful for layering in beds or pots above other bulbs or perennials, as they provide early blooms and die back just as the later flowers begin to sprout. In addition to providing colourful early spring blooms in purple, white, and yellow, crocus is a beneficial source of pollen for our bee friends.
- USDA zones: 3-9
- Type of bulb: corm
- Flower colour: yellow, white, purple, striped and bronze
- Flowering period: February – March
- Average plant height: 3 – 8 inches
- Planting depth to base of bulb: 8 inches
- Spacing between bulbs: 1 inch
- Light requirements: full sun to partial shade
- Landscape uses: borders, rock gardens, in lawns, under shrubs and trees, and for indoor forcing
Scatter crocus and plant where they fall for a naturalized look.

Ornamental Onion (Alliums spp.)

Ok, I’ll admit, I’m addicted to alliums! These powerhouses are gorgeous and unique ornamentals and tasty edibles, and some varieties have sculptural seed heads that can be dried and used as striking home décor. For more information, see this Essential Guide to Alliums.
- USDA zones: 3-9
- Type of bulb: true bulb
- Flower colour: white, purple, pink, burgundy
- Flowering period: April – June
- Average plant height: 10 – 68 inches
- Planting depth to base of bulb: varies, follow species instructions
- Spacing between bulbs: varies, follow species instructions
- Light requirements: full sun
- Landscape uses: perennial gardens, borders, fresh-cut and dried
Even once done blooming, the unique seed heads provide some garden beauty.

Anemone (Anemone coronaria)

During the nineteenth century in Europe, people believed that anemone flowers would ward off bad luck, so planting these might just bring you luck and will certainly yield a ton of beauty in the garden.

Anemones are hardworking plants with flowers in striking, deep jewel tones. They produce many blooms from each tuber so they are a great cutting flower that just keeps going from spring to summer. Tip: soak the tubers for a couple of hours before planting.
- USDA zones: 7-10
- Type of bulb: tuber
- Flower colour: blue, red, white, pink
- Flowering period: May-August
- Average plant height: 12 – 16 inches
- Planting depth to base of bulbs: 2 inches
- Spacing between bulbs: 4 inches
- Light requirements: sun or light shade in a sheltered spot (afternoon sun)
- Landscape uses: border, beds, pots
Photo courtesy of flowerbulbs.com. Anemones are also sometimes called windflowers.

Daffodil (Narcissus spp.)

The sunny yellow trumpets of daffodils are a symbol of spring season change and look striking when planted en masse.

Before you pass by this beauty as too common, it’s worth having a look at some of the gorgeous varieties that show why the Narcissus species was aptly named after the Greek god known for his beauty. Check out the ruffled blooms of double daffodils as well as unique colours like “Westward,” “Pink Wonder,” “Tahiti,” and “Sorbet.” See my full daffodil guide here.
- USDA zones: 3-8
- Type of bulb: true bulb
- Flower colour: white, yellow, orange, red and pink
- Flowering period: February – May
- Planting depth to base of bulb: large bulbs: 8 inches; small bulbs: 5 inches
- Spacing between bulbs: 3 inches for large bulbs; 1 inch for small bulbs
- Light requirements: full sun to full shade
- Landscape uses: Daffodils are suitable for almost every possible application: fields, beds, containers, borders, rock gardens, as cut flowers, and for forcing.
Daffodils come in many hues and combinations of yellow, cream, and orange.

Spring Flowering Bulb FAQ

Can I plant bulbs that have sprouted already?

Bulbs that have already sprouted can still be planted. They’ve likely been left out a little longer and are reacting to the warm conditions. They will pop up just fine in the spring. Plant as indicated, roughly three times the size of the bulb deep.

When should I plant spring flowering bulbs?

Spring flowering bulbs should be planted in the fall, beginning in mid-September to mid-December, depending on where you live. You want to ensure they’re in the ground before it freezes. Typically once you buy them, you should plant them shortly after.

Should I water the bulbs after I plant them?

You should immediately water spring flowering bulbs after planting them. This will encourage the plant to grow roots and get them established before the cold temperatures arrive. Bulbs planted in pots should also be watered afterward, and continued to be watered until the soil dries out in the pots quickly.

More Spring Flowering Bulb Tips
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Stephanie Rose

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September 10, 2024