Tag: Month November Week 1

How to Care for Poinsettias + Its Fascinating History

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If there was one plant that embodied the spirit of Christmas, poinsettias would be at the top of the list! These cheerful red blooms may be all over, but did you know how they became associated with Christmas? Here’s the fascinating history behind the plant, plus how to care for poinsettias.

Poinsettias are everywhere we look throughout the holidays. They are for sale in pretty much any store you walk into, are a standby for school fundraisers, and can be seen in many people’s houses over the season. December 12^th is even National Poinsettia Day in the United States!

Native to Mexico, the poinsettia has a deep history in the Aztec culture before it became the Christmas icon it’s known as today. Its history as a tropical plant also means many of us struggle to keep poinsettias happy and healthy during and beyond the holiday season.

That’s where I come in! I’m going to share some tips on how to care for your poinsettia, style it, and keep it alive after the holidays.

In this post, we will cover…

Poinsettias are abundant and inexpensive during the Christmas season.

All About Poinsettias

Poinsettias have become such a universal symbol for Christmas and winter that many people don’t realize that they are actually tropical plants that grow as large shrubs in the wild. By learning how to care for poinsettias and paying attention to detail, you can create a stylish poinsettia display that showcases these fiery crimson beauties.

Botany

It can be hard to picture poinsettias growing in the wild since we are so used to seeing them as houseplants. The poinsettia plant, Euphorbia pulcherrima, is native to western Mexico, where it grows into a large shrub or small tree.

The large red “petals” are actually bracts, and the small yellow centers are the flowers. Colourful bracts and small flowers are also seen on other common flowering shrubs and trees like dogwoods and hydrangeas.

Poinsettia “flowers” are actually bracts.

History and Association with Christmas

The plant was originally known to the Aztec people as cuetlaxochitl. They used the plant as medicine to reduce fever. They also commonly used it for making a red dye that coloured cosmetics and textiles.

In the wild, poinsettia naturally begins to bloom in December as a result of longer nights. Missionaries took notice of the plant in the sixteenth century and its star-shaped bracts that bring to mind the Star of Bethlehem.

The timing and shape of the poinsettia are believed to be where the original connection to the holiday came from. And you can’t deny that the red and green colours fit in perfectly!

There is a Mexican Christmas tale about the origin of the poinsettia that tells the story of a young peasant girl named Pepita who could not afford a proper offering for her Christmas prayer, so she placed a bundle of weeds on the church altar instead.

The weeds began to bloom red and turned into beautiful, large, star-shaped flowers. In Mexico, the plant became known as Flor de Nochebuena (Christmas Eve flower).

In the nineteenth century, Joel Roberts Poinsett, the United States’ first ambassador to Mexico and an avid gardener, fell in love with growing poinsettias and sent some back to his home in South Carolina, introducing them to the U.S. for the first time. The plant got its common name from Poinsett.

Joel Roberts Poinsett also has a legacy of being a slave owner and played a role in the displacement of Native Americans, leading some to reject the common name of poinsettia in favour of the original name cuetlaxochitl.

A wild poinsettia shrub.

Selecting a Pointsettia Plant

When it comes to growing poinsettias, most people purchase the plant rather than growing it from seed or propagation. They’re everywhere during the holidays and are rather affordable, too.

Begin by purchasing a plant that looks healthy. Choose one that is full and does not have discoloured leaves or other signs of disease.

I know that you can buy poinsettias in all kinds of colours now, such as blue, rainbow, and even glitter-covered ones, but I am just not a fan. If it is not some shade or combination of red and white, it is definitely dyed.

Poinsettias are beautiful when left natural, and I think that dyed flowers just look artificial and tacky, plus I don’t especially want to bring any harsh dyes into my home. The fewer chemicals, the better!

Leave the fake colours and pick a gorgeous natural poinsettia instead. You can find them in fiery red, white, cream, blush, or with candy-cane stripes!

Avoid unnaturally coloured and dyed poinsettias.

How to Care for Poinsettias

Light Requirements

Place poinsettias in a bright room that gets lots of natural light, but keep the plant out of direct sunlight. Remember, it’s a tropical plant that is used to getting plenty of sunlight.

Place it somewhere away from drafty windows or heat sources since dramatic changes in temperature can harm the plant.

Watering Requirements

Water only when the soil feels dry to the touch. Water thoroughly when you do. I water my poinsettia roughly once a week.

Temperature and Humidity

Poinsettias are tropical plants, and can be more finicky than most. So while it needs plenty of indoor lighting, to shouldn’t be by a drafty window. You want to keep it somewhere where the temperature is stable, ideally between 18°C to 21°C (65°F to 70°F).

If you live in a dry climate, consider misting your poinsettia somewhat regularly. You can also use a DIY humidity tray.

Avoid placing poinsettias by heat registers, as this can dry them out.

Styling Poinsettias

Taking a little bit of time to re-pot your poinsettia once you get it home makes a huge difference. Plant it in a decorative ceramic pot, something plain, or even a salad bowl—anything other than leaving it in that shiny foil wrapping it comes in will make it look SO much more sophisticated.

Take your poinsettia out of the foil wrap and into a salad bowl for easy decor.

How to Keep Your Poinsettia Alive

You can get reblooms every year IF you properly care for your poinsettia. The idea is to mimic greenhouse conditions. After Christmas, continue to water and care for your poinsettia as mentioned above.

Like any plant, it will shed its flowers when it’s done blooming. The bracts will start to fade and fall off. Give your poinsettia a good trim after it finishes shedding.

After the bracts have fallen, it’s also time to start fertilizing. I apply my houseplant fertilizer roughly once a month from spring through summer. The poinsettia can become leggy with all these nutrients and not enough light, so feel free to trim the stems back to six inches.

This may also be a good time to repot the plant, as its soil becomes quite compact in its original nursery containers.

How to Encourage New Poinsettia Blooms

Beginning October 1st, your plant needs to be in total and complete darkness from 5 PM to 8 AM (or 14 hours a night). Any kind of exposure to light, from streetlamps to a tiny night light, can disrupt the process. A closet is a good place to store it, along with a bowl of water for humidity. During the day, return it to a bright, indirect spot and continue with regular watering.

Do this until the last week of November (8 weeks). By then, you should begin to see the red buds coming in. You can stop placing the plant in total darkness and leave it in its usual spot. Your poinsettia doesn’t need any fertilizer during its bloom time.

Your poinsettia should produce the same coloured bracts as the previous year.

Poinsettia Toxicity and Safety

A lot of people avoid having poinsettias in the house because of the fear that they are dangerous to cats and dogs, but the plants are not as poisonous to pets as is commonly thought. They can only cause serious harm if ingested in huge amounts (your furry friend would have to eat hundreds of plants to be in real danger, according to studies).

They can cause some unpleasant tummy aches, though, so it’s best to keep them out of reach of pets anyway. For more on plants that can be harmful to dogs and cats, take a look at this post.

The milky sap can cause skin irritation to some people. If concerned, wear gloves when pruning your poinsettia.

I’m not worried about my cat, Magic, munching on poinsettia.

FAQ on Poinsettia Care

How often should I water poinsettias?

Water your poinsettias once they are dry to the touch or you notice wilting. Let them dry out completely between waterings. It’s important to have drainage for your poinsettia so it’s not sitting in water.

Do poinsettias like sun or shade?

A tropical plant from Central America, poinsettias like it hot. Give them as much bright, indirect sunlight as possible indoors. You want to make sure that they do not touch any window panes with their leaves, as it can easily damage them, as can drafty windows.

How long can I keep my poinsettia alive?

Your poinsettia is designed to make it through the holiday season. It can stay red for a couple of months with the right care, but it will eventually drop its red leaves and turn green again. If you plan on keeping your poinsettia, you can cut back the plant to 6 inches and continue with the care.

They’re difficult to get to turn red again, but you can follow the care outlined above and aim for Christmas red again!

What is the “short-day” / darkness requirement for poinsettias?

To get a poinsettia to rebloom (change its bracts’ colour), it needs to experience cooling temperatures and shorter daylight. It requires 12-15 hours of total darkness over 6-8 weeks during the fall season. This includes artificial light. If this doesn’t occur naturally in its environment, you can move the poinsettia to a dark room, like a closet, or place a large cardboard box over it for 12-15 hours.

More Winter Flowers to Grow

Rose Morris is a professional writer and Editor with an MA in English Literature. She is a member of Room Magazine’s editorial board, has written for The Malahat Review, Western Living Magazine, Concrete Garden, and elsewhere.

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Rose Morris

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November 26, 2025
Create Dried Flower Art With Embroidery Hoops – Garden Therapy
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Dried flower embroidery allows you to preserve the beauty of your garden while also adding your own spin with hand stitches. This is just one of the many gorgeous dried flower art ideas you can do using an embroidery hoop. Let me show you how!

As a serial hobbyist and crafter, I love it when two worlds can combine. I’ve been spending the past two summers focusing on my dried flower garden, growing and testing out new flowers, specifically with the intention of drying them.

So you can imagine, I have quite the stash.

But during the winter, you can find me nestled up watching some TV while embroidering my latest project. My embroidery stash is another pride and joy.

Everyone in my life has both dried flowers and embroidery from me at this point. So, it was only natural that I combined the two into these beautiful, dried flower embroidery pieces. It may just become my next obsession this winter.

Here’s how you can make your own stunning dried flower art.

Use a combination of pressed flowers and dried flowers for more depth.

Dried Flowers for Art

Some flowers dry better than others. Test out which flowers in your garden hold their colour and structure. Since these are often small art pieces, I like to use smaller flowers or branching flowers that can break down into smaller bits.

Here are some of my favourite dried flowers to use in a dried flower hoop:

Strawflower, winged everlasting, and fern.

Other Materials to Include

You can also use pressed flowers for your embroidery, but just note that they will be extra delicate to work with. I like to apply them first, as they work best as a background. The 3D flowers on top give the piece depth.

Don’t be scared to explore and incorporate all kinds of natural materials. Here are some things you could forage for:
- Lichen and moss
- Pinecones
- Twigs
- Acorns
- Flaxseed heads
- Oat grass
- Pressed leaves
- Feathers
Don’t forget about seed pods! They’re also great decorating items.

Dried Flower Embroidery Art Tutorial

How many flowers you use and how long it will take you to complete your dried flower embroidery depends entirely on the size of the embroidery hoop you use. I recommend starting with a smaller-sized hoop and working your way up to larger pieces.

Materials

Don’t have an embroidery stash? I recommend getting white and green thread for this project.

Make It!

Use your flowers and your empty hoop to figure out your general design ahead of time so you know how to properly layer the flowers. Take a picture so you remember your design and can reference it while creating.

Lay out a general design ahead of time so you know where to thread/glue items.

Prepare your embroidery hoop by cutting a piece of tulle and placing it between the wooden hoops. Stretch it tight, but not so tight that the tulle looks warped. It should be taut.

Pro Tip: You can also try using chicken wire instead of tulle. This creates less of a delicate look and more of a rustic look, where you weave the stems in as opposed to sewing them. This works great for bigger pieces.

This is how tight the tulle should look.

To secure your flowers in place, you have a few options:
1. Embroidery. Using thread, this creates the most delicate look. It also takes some patience and handiwork to accomplish.
2. Weaving. If your flower has an intact stem and isn’t too thick, you can weave it through the tulle. While the easiest way to do dried flower embroidery, it isn’t as secure as the other methods.
3. Hot glue. This can be a little messy, and won’t work for the smaller flowers, but it is great for securing larger flowers in place without stems.
Start by adding your flatter, background pieces. For this piece, I used pressed ferns as the background. I used a simple stitch along the main vein to secure the fern in place.

I used green stitching to blend in, but you can also use thread and the stitches as a contrast.

Pro tip: Since we’re working with tulle, you have to keep your stitches fairly clean at the back, as they might be seen. I like to start my knot somewhere behind a flower where it won’t be seen. Start a new thread for each flower so there are no jumping stitches.

Add in your next layer of flowers. I usually like to incorporate my medium-sized and branching flowers at this point.

The last flowers I like to add are my larger flowers, which usually are my strawflowers. For these, I like to glue them in place, adding a large dollop to the back of the strawflowers and then holding it in place on the tulle for 30 seconds while the glue dries.

I glued in strawflower and gomphrena, and stitched the bunnytail.

To finish up your dried flower art, trim the excess tulle. Use hot glue all around the back of the hoop over the ends of the tulle to help secure and hold it in place against the embroidery hoop.

Glue the edges of the tool to the embroidery hoop to help secure it in place.

You can also add some embroidery stitching. Again, you have to be extra careful about how the back of your stitching looks through the tulle.

That’s it! These dried flower hoops make beautiful gifts and unique home décor. Hang it on the wall or in the window as a special, dried flower suncatcher.

More Dried Flower Art Ideas

From Vancouver, BC, Holly is Garden Therapy’s Content Manager. She has a BFA in Writing from the University of Victoria as well as a diploma in Floristry Design from Burnaby CCE. At home, she loves to grow cut flowers and dried flowers for her business, Dirty Daisy Florals, and is an avid houseplant collector and lover of bees. You can find her at @dirtydaisyflorals and @hollyheuversocial.
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Holly Heuver

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November 12, 2025
Gorgeous Indoor Plants that LOVE the Dark

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These are the best low light indoor plants! If you need to brighten up a dark corner or add a little life to your basement, one of these gorgeous low light plants are sure to do the trick. Here’s which plants thrive without rays, and how to care for them.

Adding plants to the house is my favorite way to bring a little lift to any room. Having plants around makes everything feel lighter, brighter, and more alive. Whether you are new plant parents or seasoned plant owners, houseplants add color and texture to a room, purify the air, and just look nice.

In this post, we will cover:

Jade, pothos, and a peace lily.

The Biology of Low Light Indoor Plants

But what about when you have lighting conditions that are less than ideal? Often people think you can only have house plants in bright spaces that receive plenty of nutrients from the sun. Thankfully, that isn’t always the case.

A handful of tropical, broad-leaf plants are primed for low-light conditions through basic biology: large leaves that soak up as much light as possible. Some also have a waxy outer layer that helps to retain moisture and makes them double-duty crowd-pleasers and low-maintenance indoor plants as well.

How to Care for Low Light Plants Indoors

I often get asked about the care of indoor plants that prefer low light, and my answer is always the same: it depends on the type of plant.

That being said, it is generally true that low light plants don’t require much water, so caring for them can be as simple as planting them in well-drained soil and watering on a monthly basis.

Great Read: Grow in the Dark

I originally wrote this post years ago, but I wanted to update this to include a bit of info about a fantastic resource for growing plants in the darker areas of your home. Grow in the Dark is written by the houseplant guru, Lisa Eldfred Steinbkopf.

I had the chance to meet Lisa at an event in Dallas last year after being a long time fan of her as a houseplant expert. She has another book that I refer to all the time for houseplant care, Houseplants: The Complete Guide to Choosing, Growing, and Caring for Indoor Plants.

If you’re interested in diving deep into the fascinating world of low light plants, I highly recommend grabbing a copy of Grow in the Dark. I’m including some quotes and info from Lisa throughout this post.

9 Houseplants to Grow in Low-Light Areas

Here are a few of my favorite low-light houseplants. I hope they bring as much cheer to your home as they have to mine!

1. Aglaonema (Chinese Evergreen)

Aglaonema has striking variegated leaves in shades of red, pink, yellow, and green. Pop this plant in a space that needs some color and you won’t have any need for flowers.

Chinese evergreens thrive in low-light areas and they are also very drought tolerant, so if you forget to water it for a while there will be no harm done. Perfect for people new to houseplants or those who consider themselves “black thumb gardeners.”

When choosing a Chinese evergreen, pay close attention to the color of the plant, says Steinbkopf. “The older hybrids, mostly green colored, can take low light and grow well. The newer colorful hybrids need medium light and do well in an east or west window. If placed in low light, they will lose their bright coloration.” – Grow in the Dark

2. Chlorophytum comosum (Spider Plant)

Spider plants love low light and do not require much attention other than occasional watering when the soil feels dry. They send out long spindly green foliage and small white flowers that will cascade down the edge of their container, making them a great choice for an indoor hanging basket.

3. Dracaena fragrans (Corn Plant)

These low-maintenance houseplants look like small tropical palms, so they will bring a ray of sunshine to that dim, drab area you’ve been meaning to spruce up. Place it somewhere that doesn’t get any direct sunlight and water occasionally, being careful not to overwater. Here’s a bit more info about watering this plant:

“It is important to water evenly over the whole potting medium to avoid rotting the corn plant’s canes. These canes can have small root systems and may need to be straightened after traveling home as well as later as they settle in. Be careful when straightening the canes not to firm the medium too much, which will compact it and force the oxygen out. As they grow, the root systems will get larger and be better able to support the canes.” – Grow in the Dark

Keep in mind that corn plant is toxic to a pet such as a cat or dog, so if you have a furry friend that likes to chew on the houseplants, skip this one.

4. Epipremnum aureum (Pothos / Devil’s Ivy)

If you want a plant that can lend itself to a hanging basket in a low-light spot, this one’s for you! Plant it in a basket or up on a pedestal and watch the variegated green vines trail down in an elegant display.

5. Maranta leuconeura (Prayer Plant)

Marantha leuconeura is a good choice if you want something with a low light indoor plant with bright foliage to add a pop of color to a drab area of the house because its leaves have variegation in rich green, purple, yellow, and red.

This houseplant needs to be kept out of direct sunlight in order for the variegated pattern on the leaves to remain vibrant. Plant it in well-draining soil and mist its leaves regularly. The leaves will point upwards at night like hands in prayer, which is where it got its common name “prayer plant.”

6. Phalaenopsis (Moth Orchid)

If you want something that blooms to bring a little color to a dark corner of your home, choose a moth orchid! You may need to stake the stems to give added support, but this plant thrives indoors.

They like low light and will bloom away happily if planted in a soil-less orchid mix, watered regularly, and given a simple humidity tray.

7. Sansevieria (Snake Plant)

Snake plants are known for being difficult to kill, so they are perfect for a small windowless bathroom, stairway, or bedroom corner. Sansevieria is a type of succulent, which means it retains water in its leaves and can be easy to overwater. Pay attention and only water when the soil feels completely dry to the touch, every three weeks or so.

8. Spathiphyllum (Peace Lily)

These pretty houseplants have lush, dark green leaves and delicate white flowers. In addition to being beautiful, they also do an exceptional job of cleaning the air and keeping it healthy for us. Peace lilies do well in dark or bright areas, so feel free to place these all over your home if you like!

These plants like to be kept moist and humid. Water regularly and mist the leaves as well to keep your peace lily happy and blooming. If you aren’t watering it enough, you will know because the leaves will droop.

Don’t worry, if you see this happening. Just give it a good drink and watch it perk back up in no time. Peace lilies take well to propagation. You can divide them and get new plants for other dark areas in your home.

9. Zamioculcas zamiifolia (Zee Zee Plant)

Not only does this houseplant grow happily in low-light areas of the home, but the zz plant is also very low maintenance. It can be left alone with no attention at all for long periods of time, so you can go on vacation and not worry about coming home to a dead plant. Its glossy, bright green leaves add a cheerful pop of color to any dark space.

Plus, this plant is one that can propagate! Here’s what Grow in the Dark has to say:

“The unusual part of this plant is that it can grow new plants from an individual leaflet, but it takes quite a long time. Place the cut end into moist potting medium and cover with plastic or glass. This process may take many months. The plant can also be divided.”

There you have it! Go ahead and add some plants to that drab corner–you’ll be amazed at how much more welcoming it looks and how much better you feel as a result.

More Posts About House Plants

A city girl who learned to garden and it changed everything. Author, artist, Master Gardener. Better living through plants.

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Stephanie Rose

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November 8, 2025
Wake Up Happy with this Rosemary and Peppermint Energizing Shower Soap – Garden Therapy
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When I first wake up in the morning, this energizing rosemary and mint soap is the perfect way to wake me up and feel ready to start the day. Whether you prefer cold process or melt-and-pour soap making, this rosemary soap recipe is for you!

The scent of rosemary is used in aromatherapy to promote focus, memory, and reduce brain fog. Peppermint is purported to help energize and refresh the mind and body. And both of them are effective natural deodorizers.

That’s why I combined these two scents for my morning shower soap (well, that and they smell awesome together). I love this energizing rosemary peppermint soap for my morning shower because it helps me to wake up, clean up, and feel ready for the day.

Let’s get into it!

Rosemary and mint and two great complementary scents.

Soap vs. Body Wash

You may think that your body wash is just a type of liquid soap, but actually, the reason why it is called “body wash” is that it isn’t soap at all. It is a detergent. You know, like you use on your dirty dishes.

Soap can only be called soap if it goes through the saponification process of turning fats and oils with sodium hydroxide into soap. This process makes the most nourishing, gentlest, and healthiest cleanser for your skin, which is why soap is the only thing I use to get clean. No mystery body washes in this household!

Soap retains the natural glycerin that’s created in the soap-making process. Products like beauty bars and body washes are detergents, or a recipe of ingredients that, combined together, cleanse your skin. Glycerin has been removed from these products because it is much too valuable to leave in there and make a big profit. Then a bunch of other artificial ingredients have been added to mask the missing glycerin.

That’s why I use soap in my morning shower every day. It’s the healthiest way to cleanse the body, and this particular soap wakes up my mind with its refreshing scent combination of rosemary and peppermint.

These soap bars lather beautifully and are moisturizing for the body as well.

Rosemary and Peppermint: a Winning Combination

Rosemary is an excellent natural deodorizer, and peppermint’s bright scent leaves you feeling fresh. The invigorating scent and natural cleansing properties of both of these essential oils make this combination the perfect choice for your everyday morning soap.

For more information on rosemary and mint, check out these posts:

Energizing Rosemary Peppermint Soap Recipe

Makes 36 oz total; approximately 7 x 5 oz bars; or will fill a 2 lb soap mould

Ingredients

Mix temp 115°F

Oils

Lye mixture

Scent and Colour

I used a round mould to make my soap, but you can also use a loaf mould.

Make It!

Head over to this post on how to make cold process soap and follow the instructions there.

Add the essential oils after you’ve combined your lye water and oils and you’ve just begun to reach trace. You can also add the sage powder at this step, using the immersion blender to blend.

Once that’s all blended, you can add your spirulina powder to make a swirl. To do this, add the spirulina powder directly to the bowl on the edge. Mix it in place with a spatula or the immersion blender.

Then, use a chopstick to swirl it once or twice through the bowl. A majority of the swirling will happen as you pour the soap into the mould.

Once in the mould, let it sit wrapped in a towel and placed somewhere warm for 48 hours. After two days, you can unmould the soap. Let it cure for six weeks before use.

For best results, all cold process soap must cure for six weeks before using it.

Melt and Pour Method

I like using the cold process technique for this soap, but if you want something even easier, you can use a pre-made soap base and add the essential oils and colourants to that.

For info on this technique, check out my own book on handmade soap the easy way (using the melt and pour method): Good Clean Fun.

More Rosemary and Mint Goodness!
Rosemary and Peppermint Energizing Shower Soap

Start the day off right, feeling refreshed and ready to start the day using with this rosemary and peppermint cold process soap recipe.

Servings: 36 oz

Put on your safety gear.

Weigh your ingredients on a scale.

Heat olive oil, grapeseed oil, and coconut oil in a double boiler until it reaches 115°F.

While the oils heat, mix together the sodium hydroxide and water in a well-ventilated area. Let it sit in an ice bath until it also reaches 115°F.

Add the oil mixture to a mixing bowl, followed by the lye water. Use an immersion blender to mix until you reach a light trace.

Add the essential oils and sage powder, and mix again until well combined.

Add spirulina powder to the outer edge of the bowl. Mix in place, then use a chopstick to swirl twice through the mixture. Pour soap into the mould.

Let the soap sit undisturbed, somewhere warm, for 48 hours. After which, you can remove the soap from the mould and let it cure for six weeks before use.

Makes 36 oz total or approximately 7 x 5 oz bars. Will fill a 2 lb soap mould.
A city girl who learned to garden and it changed everything. Author, artist, Master Gardener. Better living through plants.
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Stephanie Rose

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November 7, 2025
The Essential Guide to Rosemary: Care, Uses, and Healing Benefits – Garden Therapy
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Rosemary can be used in so many different ways, from culinary recipes to natural beauty to pest control, and it has long been renowned for its healing properties. This plant is easy to grow and propagate, and a delicious addition to many culinary creations. Follow this essential guide to rosemary for the best tips on how to grow, care for, preserve, and use this hardy wonder herb.

Rosemary thrives in dry, rocky conditions, so it is a great choice to grow in a rock garden or on a wall. This is because it is native to the Mediterranean, where it grows wild along rocky ocean cliffs—the plant gets its name from the Latin “rosmarinus,” which means “sea mist.”

When rosemary was brought to England in the fifteenth century, it became known as a symbol of loyalty and was often given as a token of fidelity from a bride to her groom on their wedding day.

It has since travelled all over the world and become one of the most common—and well-loved—herbs for home gardens.

Let me share all of my rosemary tips and goodness with you!

Healing Rosemary Benefits

Rosemary is known for its antiseptic, anti-fungal, and anti-inflammatory properties—in the sixteenth century, it was often burned to disinfect rooms that had previously been occupied by sick people.

It is also purported to have anti-stress properties and to improve focus and memory, so grab a sprig of rosemary and rub it between your hands to release the aroma if you need to study or get some work done.

Rosemary is often used as a natural painkiller for nausea and headaches by rubbing the fresh herb or diffusing rosemary essential oil.

A rosemary leaf can even help with your breath. Chew one leaf as a natural breath freshener, or add some to a batch of homemade dog cookies if your pampered pooch wakes you up in the morning with a kiss.

Rosemary is also a great herb for hair, and is a primary ingredient in this hair serum.

How to Grow Rosemary

Plant rosemary seeds about eight to ten weeks prior to the last frost of the spring. Plant in an area with well-draining soil. Rosemary can grow quite large (up to four feet tall with a four-foot spread), so make sure that you give it enough room between other plants

Be careful not to overwater, which is a common mistake with rosemary. Remember that it likes dry conditions and only water when the top two inches of soil feel very dry to the touch.

Perennial herbs like rosemary are great additions to the hardy garden.

Rosemary Plant Care

Pruning: trim rosemary back after it flowers (cut off the top inch or two of each flowering sprig) and be sure to prune regularly to keep the plant from becoming leggy.

Pests and Disease: root rot is common. To prevent it, provide good drainage and air circulation and don’t overwater. Whitefly and spider mites are common pests on rosemary plants. Prevent them by keeping your rosemary healthy and strong (they can’t do much damage to an already healthy plant), and get rid of them with a solution of water mixed with soap or neem oil applied directly to the leaves.

Propagation: snip a piece of new growth (the stem should be soft and green as opposed to woody) about five inches long. Strip off the lower leaves, place the cutting in a jar of water with a plastic sandwich bag over top for protection. When roots begin to develop, remove the cutting from the jar and plant in soil. You can also use rooting hormone to help your cutting along, if you wish. For more details on propagation, head over to this post.

Overwintering: Rosemary is hardy to Zone 6 or 7, but you can also overwinter it indoors if you would like to have fresh rosemary to use all winter long.

To overwinter outdoors, remove any weeds from around the base of the plant, give it a good prune, and cover with a two-to-four-inch layer of mulch to insulate and protect it from cold winter temperatures. See more tips on overwintering herbs.

Harvesting and Preserving Rosemary

Harvest up to one-third of the plant at a time. Try to trim the new, green stems, as opposed to the woody stems.

You can use rosemary fresh, tie the sprigs into a bundle and hang them up to dry, or store them in an airtight container for future use.

How to Use Rosemary

There are endless ways to use rosemary in cooking, natural beauty recipes, and around the home. Here are a few ideas:

Recipes

Aromatherapy and Beauty
- Put a pot of rosemary or a rosemary candle on your work desk to improve focus.
- My whole haircare routine revolves around rosemary, thanks to it stimulating and restoeative herbal properties. Here are all my rosemary haircare recipes: conditioner, hair serum, and dry shampoo.
- Gargle with rosemary tea for a natural homemade mouthwash.
- Add it to homemade soap (like this liquid hand soap or this energizing cold process recipe)
- Relieve congestion by adding fresh or dried rosemary to a bowl of boiling water and breathing in the steam.
- Add a bundle of rosemary to the shower to really wake you up in the morning! Or add it to a sugar scrub to exfoliate while you breathe in its energizing scent.
Home and Garden

Whether you use it for cooking, crafting, or healing, you won’t regret adding a rosemary plant to your garden!

More Helpful Tips for Growing Herbs

A city girl who learned to garden and it changed everything. Author, artist, Master Gardener. Better living through plants.
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Stephanie Rose

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November 6, 2025
Growing Pains: Dispelling Old Wives’ Tales About Gardening – Garden Therapy

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Before the internet, or even the printing press, we relied on the knowledge passed down through to learn about gardening. While there is so much to know from our ancestors, some old wives’ tales about gardening just aren’t true. There are still a handful of gardening myths that people still use today. Instagram and TikTok are full of them! Let’s get to the truth behind these common gardening misconceptions.

Bees are only attracted to the colour yellow.

Peeing on a jellyfish sting will alleviate the pain.

Turkey makes you sleepy.

If you swallow gum, it will take 7 years to digest.

These are just a handful of old wives’ tales I’ve heard over the years.

When it comes to gardening, some of these old wives’ tales about gardening can have a hint of truth to them. They’re all rooted in some science, even if they didn’t realize it.

BUT (and this is a big but), most of them are said to work better than they actually do. Or they at least started with good intentions. You’ll see what I mean when you keep on reading!

Here are the gardening myths I’ll be talking about today…

A Note on Listening and Experimenting

When it comes to old wives’ tales about gardening, some of them can actually be true. Making them not an old wives’ tale at all!

I’ve always sought to find a balance between science-based and grandmother methods that have been passed down.

While writing Garden Alchemy, I analyzed permaculture, herbalism, indigenous learning, and current science to develop organic concoctions for the garden. It’s all about striking a balance between these claims and fact-based evidence.

This review from Frau Zinnie sums it up. “[Garden Alchemy] empowers the reader to experiment with ways to fix common garden problems with minimal effort — and showing how there are so many things the home gardener can do before deciding to buy a “problem-solving” product at the store.”

From peat-free soil alternatives to using alfalfa as a fertilizer, there are many ways you can use organic elements effectively in the garden using Garden Alchemy as your guide.

And now, onto some myth busting!

Adding Coffee Grounds to Soil

The gardening myth: coffee grounds are a great soil amendment, and you can mix them right into your soil.

While coffee grounds do have plant nutrients, they’re not a significant source. People add them directly to the soil; while you can do this, it’s better to use them as a compost ingredient. They’re a great compost ingredient and will provide more benefits to your plants once decomposed.

Read more on using coffee grounds in the garden.

Coffee grounds are a great addition to the compost pile, but not right in the garden.

Vinegar as a Weed Killer

The gardening myth: vinegar is a natural herbicide that is better for the garden than commercial herbicides.

Vinegar burns plants upon contact, and it is gentler than most commercial herbicides. BUT it doesn’t discriminate against which plants it will harm, burning anything it comes into contact with. It also may kill the leaves, but not the root system below. So, while it may be a weed killer, it’s not as effective as you might like and could hurt your neighbouring plants.

Read more about the reality of using vinegar in your garden.

Banana Peels as Fertilizer

The gardening myth: you can soak bananas in hot water to create a potassium-rich fertilizer tea to pour on your houseplants and in the garden.

Very little of the banana peel decomposes when you soak it in water. As a result, the water doesn’t have much nutritional value. If you put a banana peel directly in the soil, it will take a long time to break down before it becomes useful to your garden. They’re not an immediate nutrient boost and work best when added to the compost pile.

Read more about how to use banana peels in the garden.

Eggshells in the Garden

The gardening myth: eggshells are a calcium-rich garden amendment that can help prevent blossom end rot from occurring.

Calcium deficiency is actually quite rare for soil. While blossom end rot occurs due to the plant’s lack of calcium, it’s not because there’s a lack of calcium in the soil but rather the plant’s ability to absorb the calcium. Furthermore, eggshells need to be fully broken down to provide calcium, and following a theme here, it takes a while to break down. They’re better off in the compost or in your worm bin.

Read more about using eggshells in the garden.

Dish Soap as Insecticide

The gardening myth: dish soap works as an insecticide spray.

Most commercial dish soaps are actually detergents, which contain ingredients that aren’t actually that healthy for the garden and your soil. Instead, you want to use fragrance-free castile soap. When mixed with water and other pest deterrent ingredients, it can help make your deterrent more sticky and useful when spraying it on pests.

Read more about how I use dish soap safely in my garden.

Cinnamon as a Fungicide

The gardening myth: you can sprinkle cinnamon in your potting soil to prevent damping off from affecting your seedlings.

Cinnamon is actually quite a powerful spice and has antibacterial and antifungal properties. Many studies have proven these properties in combating illnesses for humans, and some show this for plants as well. However, many of the studies use cinnamon from different species and in different forms than the powdered version we get at the grocery store.

Learn more about how to use cinnamon as an antifungal.

Talking to Plants

The gardening myth: if you speak kind words to your plants, they can actually grow better.

Sound vibrations are proven to affect plant growth positively. Does it have to be a positive affirmation? No. Your plant won’t know whether your words are good or bad. Music can actually have a greater effect on your plants. All in all, it doesn’t matter what kind of sound plants listen to, but they like noise!

Read more about the science behind talking to plants.

Using Epsom Salts in the Garden

The gardening myth: Epsom salts can prevent and cure blossom end rot and stop pests and other fungal diseases.

Epsom salts won’t help your plant when there’s a calcium deficiency, which is why your plant has blossom end rot. In fact, Epsom salts are a high source of magnesium and that can actually hurt your plant when it’s trying to get more calcium. There is also no real evidence to support that it can stop other pests and diseases.

Read more about the ways I DO use Epsom salts.

I love to use Epsom salts in the bathtub after a long day out in the garden.

Houseplants as Air Purifiers

The gardening myth: having houseplants in your home can help to purify the air and improve air quality.

Without a doubt, plants are powerful tools to combat pollution and filter through harmful toxins. Many large studies (like the famous NASA one) proved that plants effectively filter air. However, most of these studies were done in small, enclosed spaces. Large, open houses will make it difficult for a few houseplants to purify the air to a point where it’s positively affecting your health. But they certainly don’t hurt!

Learn more about using houseplants as biofilters.

If you’re a crazy plant lady like me, you might have enough houseplants to have better air quality.

Gardening by the Moon Phases

The gardening myth: the lunar cycle can affect plant growth and can be a useful tool for planning planting and maintenance.

Since the moon can affect the earth’s tides, some believe it can also affect the water intake in plants. Depending on the moon’s phase, you can determine the best time to plant, cultivate, and harvest plants. There’s no real evidence to support this, but that hasn’t stopped other old wives’ tales about gardening and the moon to pop up.

Get inspired by planting a moon garden, a garden that is designed to be enjoyed in the moonlight.

Using Compost Tea

The gardening myth: diluting compost and using compost leachate can be useful ways to improve soil and plant health.

There’s a big debate about whether or not compost tea is actually helpful for the garden. Compost tea is something I use in my own garden, and I have written about it quite a bit in Garden Alchemy. Those who are against compost tea say there’s not enough evidence to support the positive claims behind compost tea.

Learn more about compost tea and decide for yourself if it’s a worthwhile pursuit.

Plants Die of Old Age

The gardening myth: like us, plants experience aging and will eventually die as they get old.

Plants do not age the same way that we do. In theory, plants have infinite growth potential as they produce more leaves, flowers, stems, and roots. A plant can keep producing new parts to replace their old ones as long as they like. But as they age, they often get damaged over time and become weaker. This means the older a plant is, the more likely it is to fall victim to a pathogen.

Learn more about the science behind aging plants.

Plants Feel Pain

The gardening myth: when you snip or damage a plant, you’re hurting it.

Plants have no pain receptors; they don’t feel the same way we do. However, they do experience stress and will react to poor conditions. For instance, I’ve seen how my garden reacts after lots of forest fire smoke has been in the air. Plants will respond to their environment but don’t have feelings.

Read more about the science behind plant stress and even how they communicate with each other.

Don’t worry about cutting your plants. They’re not going to feel pain.

Plants Don’t Need Oxygen

The gardening myth: plants take in carbon dioxide and produce oxygen.

This one isn’t actually a myth per se, but only half of the full story. During photosynthesis, plants take carbon dioxide from the air alongside water from the ground to turn it into sugars and oxygen. The plant uses the sugars, and the oxygen is a by-product. However, during the photosynthesis process, plants do use some oxygen. They just need a fraction of it compared to us.

Learn more about the science behind plant respiration.

Plants also need oxygen, just not as much as us.

More Old Wives’ Tales About Gardening

What is the old wives’ tale about thanking someone for a plant?

An old gardening superstition is that when you thank someone for gifting you a plant or a flower from someone’s garden, the original plant will die or won’t bloom again.

What other old wives’ tales about gardening have you heard? Let me know in the comments below. I’d love to add to this list and do some more digging.

More Fun Facts About Gardening

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Stephanie Rose

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January 1, 2024
Design and Plant a Front Yard Bulb Garden and Lawn – Garden Therapy
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A bulb lawn is one of the most beautiful ways to usher in the spring. A wave of colourful flowers erupts across your lawn, creating a welcome display for your enjoyment and the pollinators after a cold winter. Follow along to see how I designed and planted my front yard bulb garden.

Photo courtesy of flowerbulbs.com

It’s my first fall in my new house, and while I’ve been here for a couple of months now, I still feel like I’m just settling in. I’ve barely scratched the surface of the garden.

So, when flowerbulbs.com offered to send me 1500 bulbs to create a front yard pollinator garden, I leapt at the opportunity.

My front yard space is small, about 600 sq. ft., and very patchy. It currently consists of moss, buttercup, and a bit of turf. And after years of poor drainage and neglect, it’s not level. So you could say that a bulb lawn makeover is very much needed!

Be sure to read all the way to the end because I have a great bulb giveaway for two lucky readers as well!

Follow along to see how I designed and planted my front yard bulb garden.

Mixing your bulbs together creates a more natural look.

Sponsored Content: Thank you to flowerbulbs.com for sponsoring this post and providing the epic bulb giveaway. Flowerbulbs.com is an amazing resource to help you learn about all the different kinds of bulbs and how to plant them. Be sure to check them out!

What is a Bulb Lawn?

Bulb lawns are exactly what they sound like! You plant spring-flowering bulbs in the fall in your lawn, and come early spring, they begin to bloom across your grass. It’s a practice that began in Europe hundreds of years ago and is popular in many botanical gardens today.

Most gardeners choose naturalizing bulbs. These are bulbs that you plant once, and then they return and multiply over the years, such as snowdrops, crocus, and daffodils. Over time, it will slowly cover your lawn into a spectacular display of spring colour.

I’ve written an extensive guide about naturalizing bulbs that you can also read.

Front bulb gardens provide many ecological and aesthetic benefits. No matter the type of lawn, it’s easy to start planting bulbs to spruce up an otherwise empty space.

The bulbs will provide early-season pollen and nectar for pollinators when little else is blooming. Spring-flowering bulbs are some of the first flowers to awaken, providing lots of colour and texture after a sometimes gloomy winter.

Bulbs in lawns are incredibly low maintenance. After planting, you only need to water them once to help them establish themselves. You don’t mow in the spring, as the flowers bloom. Then, the naturalizing bulbs return on their own, slowly multiplying every following season.

Here’s how my boulevard bulb garden project turned out last year!

Gardening With an Invisible Disability

Physically, I have not been doing well lately. I’ve had a flare-up of my disability that has made daily tasks incredibly challenging. So, while I was excited to get these bulbs and plant a front yard pollinator garden, I honestly didn’t know how I would get the job done.

I know many people who read Garden Therapy also struggle with physical and other restraints that keep them from being able to garden. So, it was important to me that I tackle this project and get my own garden therapy while also sharing how I made it easier on myself living through this current flare-up that has really taken me down.

So, first and foremost, I asked for help. I started by calling in some local landscaping friends to see if somebody could come and help me with the planting. And they came through!

Me with my power planter. Power planters are good for planting multiple bulbs.

Preparing for Your Bulb Garden

Before you begin planting, you’ll want to mow your lawn ahead of time so it’s easy to dig into and map out a design.

If you haven’t already grabbed your bulbs, then make sure you get them ASAP before the frost comes and the ground freezes.

For a front yard pollinator garden, make sure to include single flower blooms. Double flower blooms are beautiful, and you can certainly plant some, but pollinators need single flowers.

Here is the mixture that I ended up planting:
- 100 Narcissus “Tete a Tete Tops”
- 200 Anemone “Blanda”
- 50 Chionodoxa luciliae “Alba”
- 100 Dwarf iris “Alida”
- 100 Dwarf iris “J.S.Dyt”
- 100 Dwarf iris “Louise”
- 100 Snowdrops “Floreo Plena”
- 400 Muscari
- 200 Crocus Large Mix
- 200 Tulips
Make Your Design

My front yard is a small south-facing space. In front, there are two large trees on the city property, plus a 3-foot tall fence surrounding the yard.

With my friends, we chatted through some design ideas. I originally wanted to do a muscari river through the centre of the lawn and then plant a mixture of low-growing bulbs to naturalize on either side of the river.

But there were two big challenges with this plan. First, I thought it would look slightly contrived in the front yard. Two gates come into the yard; one gate has a pathway that goes into the backyard, while the other has a pathway to the front door. With a muscari river between those two paths, it wouldn’t have the natural flow I was looking for.

The second challenge was that lots of digging would be involved to get 1500 bulbs in the front yard. In my previous stinzen planting project at my rental house, we used a power planter to drill holes for all the bulbs individually.

If I did that for this project, I would have 1500 holes in the yard, and that just didn’t seem like the right strategy for such a small space.

So here’s what we did…

Use a large container to mix up your bulbs easily.

Mixed Bulb Pockets

To achieve the naturalized look I wanted, we decided to do little pockets of mixed bulbs throughout the lawn. We mixed all the bulbs together to create a much more natural appearance.

When planning out your design, you want to ensure you can still access the garden if you need to. You also want to place them in a low-traffic area so the bulbs aren’t disturbed when blooming.

For my pocket design, you can still walk across the lawn between all the bulbs that will grow like lily pads popping up in the spring.

This design also allowed me to level the lawn. We found small natural depressions in the lawn (like the heart shape below) and lifted the soil. Once we placed the bulbs, we could put chunks of the lawn on top. This helped to lift the area so that the lawn is now semi-graded.

When planting a bulb garden, you want to try to place it in full sun. While the bulbs can grow in partial shade, they thrive with lots of spring sunlight.

This natural heart shape was a depression in the lawn. Digging it up will help level my lawn. I added more soil to this sunken area.

Tulip Border

In my bub garden design, I also included a tulip border. For this, I mixed 4 varieties of tulips in a wave along the fence. You can use spray paint or a hose to help you map out a design. We just went freehand and dug it up. We will see how it looks in the spring!

Here are the varieties of tulips I planted:
- “Couleur Cardinal”
- “Purple Prince”
- “Continental”
- “Sunny Prince”
Plant Your Bulbs

Finally, we were ready to plant! With the tulips separate, I mixed together the 1300 remaining bulbs and dug about 20 different-shaped pockets.

With so many bulbs to plant, we didn’t worry about careful placement. We dug down about 6 inches deep into the soil.

I then tossed in a couple of handfuls of bulbs, so it looked like they would fill the space quite nicely. Then, we turned them all around so that the roots were pointed down and the tips up while laughing and shouting, “Bums down!”

Then, we backfilled with the soil and placed the turf back on top. Of course, the turf was falling apart due to the heavy percentage of moss and weeds. Not enough turf roots were there to hold the structure together, so it became a mishmash of placing as many of the puzzle pieces back in as possible and topping the rest off with new soil and seed.

Yes, the lawn won’t look the prettiest after the initial bulb planting, but it does bounce back quickly. I started my project a bit later than I would want the lawn to recover well before winter, but I’m still confident it will look fabulous in the spring!

Make sure your bulbs are planted pointy end facing up and roots down.

A Note on Depth

As you can see, I didn’t fuss too much about the planting depth for all the different bulbs. But typically, you want to plant the bulbs 3X as deep as they are tall.

For instance, daffodil bulbs are 2 inches tall, so you’d plant them 6 inches deep. Meanwhile, you can have really small bulbs that only get planted 2 inches deep.

If you don’t have as many bulbs as me, you can be a little more careful about your planting depths. You can also group the bulbs based on their size when mixing them. This way, you can dig deeper depending on what mix you’re currently planting.

The tulip bulbs were planted in the back border as a colourful spring display.

Repairing the Lawn

After planting, my lawn looked a little patchy, but truly, if you hadn’t seen us plant all those bulbs, you would never have known. I watered my lawn to help settle everything and help establish the bulbs.

Since my lawn needed some TLC in the first place, the next step will be to top the entire lawn with more topsoil and then reseed it. I’ll be seeding my lawn with a mixture of microclover and turf grasses that do well in the shade—even though my lawn is south-facing, it does get a lot of shade because of the structures around it.

Ozzie oversaw all of our design plans and planting 😉

My Methodology

While planting my bulb garden, a friend visited for the weekend. While she doesn’t identify as a gardener, she did agree to help me. Her previous experience with bulbs was buying a package from the garden centre, bringing it home, and letting a couple of years pass. She still has that package, although I broke the news that they were now compost (but most likely dust). She had the best intentions but became overwhelmed by the spacing and location and wasn’t sure how to do it.

When we started planting, she was quite surprised that we dug holes and tossed in our bulbs willy-nilly before adjusting their direction. We didn’t add any bonemeal; instead, we just topped them with soil. I explained that this freestyle planting comes with some experience.

Ok, so I just wrote that I didn’t add any bonemeal. Let me explain. Generally, home gardens have enough phosphorous in our soil, so adding bonemeal isn’t necessary.

Bulb fertilizers are often labelled as ‘bloom boosters’ because the high phosphorous levels encourage plant flowering. If you notice that your container plants aren’t flowering as much as they should be, adding additional phosphorous could be the key to more blooms.

That being said, the ground soil in a home garden probably has adequate amounts of phosphorous. Adding more than the plants need can run off into water systems, creating environmental issues.

Even more concerning is that phosphorous is a finite resource, and humans are consuming it for agricultural purposes at alarming rates. While farmed land may need phosphorous to be replenished, in the home garden, it is only needed when a soil test shows a deficiency or when fertilizing plants in potting soil.

My tulip border along the front fence.

Growing a Natural Lawn

I was very surprised when I lifted the grass to see how healthy the soil was below. It was a beautiful surprise full of microorganisms and some organic matter. It was light and fluffy, dark black, and well-hydrated. What a treat!

Immediately, I was encouraged that this would make a beautiful garden because the soil was so healthy.

Since I garden from a permaculture standpoint, I try to make all my projects regenerative. Topping the soil would encourage plants to grow besides turf and bulbs. Those wild plants are great for the soil, improving the nutrient mixture to help the bulbs flower.

Over the years, I’ll keep adding some nice compost and continue to support the soil health with the addition of microclovers and turf grasses. This will allow a mixture of wild plants, like buttercup, to grow and flower, providing even more pollinator food.

Then, the bulbs in the lawn will become more like a meadow space and naturalize in a way that looks effortless, all while helping out local wildlife.

Bulb Garden Giveaway!

I’ve partnered with flowerbulbs.com to give away a stunning spring flowering bulb mixture perfect for creating a bulb lawn or garden. Not one but TWO lucky garden therapy winners will win $100 worth of bulbs for planting.

To enter the contest, leave a comment down below letting me know which bulbs are your favourite to grow. This contest is open until November 23, 2023, when I will use a random number generator to select the winners. This contest is only open to US residents.

Photo courtesy of flowerbulbs.com

FAQ About Bulb Gardens

When should I plant my bulb lawn?

You want to plant your bulb garden before the first frost and the ground freezes. Here are some recommendations for zones from flowerbulbs.com.
Zone 4-5 — September to October
Zone 6-7 — October to early November
Zone 8-9 — November to early December
Zone 10+ — late December to early January

How do I mow a bulb lawn?

In the spring, do not mow. Wait as long as you can until your foliage turns yellow. Then, you can mow normally. You want to avoid mowing until the plant dies, as it needs to gather energy to store in the bulb so it returns the following year. After blooming, your bulb lawn will look like a regular lawn.

How do I stop squirrels from digging up my bulbs?

Squirrels love dirt and loose soil. So, after planting bulbs in lawn, you’ll notice that squirrels might come flocking to your garden. You can peg chicken wire down over your lawn for the first few weeks until the grass appears normal again. You can also sprinkle grass seed over the top to help encourage the grass to fill back in quickly.

Planting at the right depth also means the squirrels might not dig that deep. I have a hard time picturing squirrels digging down 6 inches!

Watch this video to see how I handled the squirrels in my bulb garden last year.

More Tips for Growing Bulbs
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Stephanie Rose

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November 13, 2023
Christmas Tree Care: How to Keep a Christmas Tree Alive
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Picking a fresh Christmas tree is one of the best parts of the season. However, you’ll need to learn Christmas tree care to keep the magic going all month long. This post will show you how to keep a Christmas tree alive throughout the whole holiday season.

For centuries, the Christmas tree has been an honoured tradition for the holiday season. The pagans first brought in evergreen boughs during the winter solstice to remind themselves of the greenery of spring.

Taking inspiration from the pagans, the Christmas tree originated in Germany. The first Christmas tree was said to belong to Martin Luther, who was in awe of the brilliance of the stars among evergreens. To recreate the beauty, he placed a tree in his home and decorated it with lighted candles.

The German settlers in Pennsylvania brought this tradition to America, erecting their first trees in 1747. It wasn’t until the 1980s that Christmas trees rose in popularity, and people began decorating their own.

To keep this brilliant tradition going, grab a fresh tree from your local seller. Many people avoid the mess of a real tree, but with the proper Christmas tree care, you can lose very few needles. Then you have a fresh, wonderful-smelling tree that’s much better for the environment.

Keep on reading for all my tips on how to keep a Christmas tree alive.

I worked as a Christmas tree seller for many years, and have gained lots of knowledge about Christmas tree care as a result.

Quick Tips for Caring for a Real Christmas Tree
- The best tree starts with selection. Buy a fresh tree and test for needle retention. Gently tug along the branch; only a few needles should fall off.
- Christmas trees must be placed in water 6-8 hours after being cut down. If you’re buying them from a lot, ask the seller to cut off the end 1-2 inches.
- Check the water levels of your Christmas tree every day. Don’t let it dry out!
- Keep your tree away from heat sources to stop it from drying out.
- Add a humidifier if your tree is in a dry room or climate.
How to Keep a Christmas Tree Alive

Your perfect Christmas tree is only perfect if it lasts through the season! With these tips for caring for a real Christmas tree, you will be able to choose a tree that is fresh, as well as learn how to keep it alive and beautiful throughout the holidays.

Pick the Freshest Tree Possible

Head to a local tree farm and cut your own for the freshest tree. If you buy your tree from a lot, there is a simple test to help you decide if it is fresh enough to take home. The last thing you want is for all the needles to drop as soon as you hang your decorations.

Test tree freshness by holding a branch tip firmly between your thumb and forefinger; pinch the branch slightly higher with the opposite hand and slide your fingers up the branch against the grain. The needles should not come off the branch. (As a side note, this is the easy way to remove leaves from woody herbs like rosemary, sage, and thyme.)

Now that you know it’s fresh, make sure that you choose a tree that is right for your space with the help of this guide: How to Choose the Right Fresh Christmas Tree for Your Family.

Christmas trees begin drying out as soon as they leave the tree farm.

Make a Fresh Cut

Keep your tree fresh by cutting a 1-2 inch thick slice off the base of the trunk before placing it in water. You may not have a saw handy, so ask if they can cut it at the tree lot before you take it home. Most sellers will automatically make a fresh cut for you.

Get the tree in the water right away if possible. Otherwise, you can leave it for 6-8 hours before you will need to make another fresh cut. If you can’t erect your Christmas tree right away, try to place it in a bucket of water and leave it somewhere unheated. A garage will protect it from wind and avoid freezing the water.

Water, Water, Water

Christmas trees drink LOTS of water so be sure to check the water levels daily. Purchase a stand that will hold enough water. The box should give an estimate of how much water it holds, but remember, that won’t count the water displacement when the trunk is in it.

As a general rule, a tree drinks 1 quart of water for every inch in diameter. A tree trunk 3 inches wide will drink 3 quarts of water a day. Keep this in mind when buying a tree and stand.

Display your fresh Christmas tree out of direct sunlight and away from heat vents. Do not let the reservoir in the tree stand dry out ever. All of these things dry out the tree more rapidly and speed its demise.

Cutting a Christmas tree down right at the farm is a must-try experience.

Help! My Christmas Tree is Not Drinking Water

Christmas trees need a fresh cut before you bring them inside. It can only be out of water for 6-8 hours before you need to make another cut to the base of the trunk to encourage it to drink more water. Most sellers will automatically cut the base of the trunk for this reason.

While it may be a hassle, and messy, cutting 1-2 inches off the base of the trunk will encourage the tree to drink water.

Living Christmas Tree Care

An increasingly popular choice for Christmas trees is to purchase a potted living tree. If you decide to get a living Christmas tree this year, plan on keeping it in the house for no more than a few days. The dry, warm air may be lovely for you, but it takes a toll on an evergreen.

Keep it Outside

Once you have celebrated with your tree, it’s time to set it back outside. You don’t need to plant it right away, which is good because some areas might be hard with frozen soil! But even setting it back into its natural environment should be done with caution. It is important that the tree be re-acclimatized to outdoor conditions gradually when returning outdoors.

Water Well

Place it in an unheated, sheltered location for a day or so for the transition. After that, water it well and take it back outside. If the ground is not frozen, plant it. If the ground is frozen, protect the root ball by insulating it in a moistened mulch or straw pile until it thaws outside.

What to Do After Christmas

With these tips on how to keep a Christmas tree alive, your fresh tree will look gorgeous for the holidays and provide your family with plenty of enjoyment. What should you do after Christmas?

Look up your local tree recycling programs. Some have a roadside pickup, while others have central drop-off locations. I know of at least one city that has a great program where you can take your tree to a goat farm and stay to watch the goats chow down. They go after the trees like crazy, and they will eat all the needles and branches right down to the trunk!

Or you can always get a bit crafty! Why not make some of these fun projects with your recycled Christmas tree?

Frequently Asked Questions About Christmas Tree Care

When it comes to people wondering how to keep a Christmas tree alive, I get a lot of questions. Reference this quick guide to help figure out how to care for your tree.

What do you put in Christmas tree water to keep the tree fresh?

You may have seen advertisements for Christmas tree food or other homemade recipes to help keep your tree fresh. But don’t add anything to your water! Additives such as bleach, aspirin, sugar, or anything advertised for Christmas trees are completely unnecessary. In fact, some may harm the tree. Just plain water is all your tree needs to make it through the holiday season.

How do you keep a Christmas tree from drying out?

Every single day, check the water levels of your tree. Your tree trunk should always be submerged in at least 2 inches. A Christmas tree stand should hold a minimum of 1 quart of water, or you will notice yourself refilling it multiple times a day.

Besides lots and lots (and lots) of watering, don’t let your tree get too hot. Consider lowering the temperature of the room your tree will call home. This may mean placing it in a room you don’t spend too much time in. Keep it away from all heating sources, such as fireplaces, heating vents, and direct sunlight.

If your home is naturally dry, consider adding a humidifier to the room to help prevent your tree from drying out.

What do you do if your Christmas tree doesn’t drink water?

If you’re checking the water levels and notice it’s not changing, your tree is likely not drinking any water. This means you will need to make another fresh cut. When you cut a tree, resin seeps out and can block the pores that intake water.

Upon purchasing, the seller should make a fresh cut to help them absorb water. If you need to make one yourself, the cut should be at least 1-2 inches.

Is it normal for needles to fall out of the Christmas tree?

A Christmas tree will naturally drop needles throughout the holidays. But if you notice it’s dropping a TON, your tree is dried out. Water well and keep it away from heat to prevent needle loss.

When choosing a Christmas tree, make sure it’s fresh. Fresh trees should only lose a couple of needles when you pull along the branches. You can tap the tree on the ground if it’s not too big and see how many needles fall off.

As your tree ages, it will drop more and more needles. You want to try and take the tree down before it dries up entirely, or cleanup will be a big chore!

Can you overwinter a Christmas tree?

You cannot overwater a Christmas tree. They need lots of water inside the home, especially during their first week, so always keep the stand full of water.

The general rule is that you need a quart of water for every inch in diameter. For example, a trunk 2 inches wide will drink 2 quarts of water daily. This rule helps you pick the suitable size stand and tree to match each other.

How long can Christmas trees last without water?

Christmas trees can last 6-8 hours without water before they will begin to dry out. While transporting, keep the surface of the fresh-cut clean and avoid any damage.

When at home, leave it in water and the garage until you can bring it inside to set up. If it’s more than 6-8 hours later, you must make another fresh cut to the tree.

Do Christmas trees need sugar water?

Many wives’ tales will suggest adding sugar or aspirin to a tree to help revive it or encourage it to drink more water. But you don’t need to add anything to your water. This likely comes from the idea of adding sugar to vases as flower food. Your Christmas tree is so big it won’t need the sugar to stay alive for a few weeks.

Do you have any more questions about how to keep a Christmas tree alive? Drop them in the comments down below, and I’ll answer them as soon as I can. Until then, Merry Christmas!

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Stephanie Rose

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November 10, 2023