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Tag: Month February Week 3

  • How to Revive a Sick Air Plant – Garden Therapy

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    Air plants are pretty fascinating—unlike other plants, Tillandsia requires no soil to grow. This makes them a versatile and beautiful addition to any indoor space. However, just because they don’t need soil doesn’t mean they don’t require special care. If you find your plant is looking less than stellar, use this guide to troubleshoot and learn how to revive an air plant. 

    Got a dying or dead air plant? If your air plant is looking dull, a bit brown, or limp, there’s usually one culprit: watering! In fact, these signs could mean that it is very thirsty!

    To revive a sick air plant that has been a tad neglected, shipped from far, far away, or is just looking a little under the weather, this air plant care guide will show you how to perk it back up!

    This post will cover…

    Do I Have a Dead Air Plant?

    Just like anything, there is a point of no return when it comes to air plant health. That being said, people often think they have a dead air plant when in reality the plant is just struggling a bit but can easily be nursed back to health.

    A dead air plant will be completely rotten, AKA all the leaves are mushy at the base and will fall off. Or, it has already turned brown and crunchy.

    In most cases, air plants are not truly dead but instead in the process of dying. This means that with a little TLC, your Tillandsia can perk back up and even begin to thrive!

    air plant growing in a seashell white sitting on a wooden table
    Brown tips can occur from not enough water or too much sunlight, which is fairly common.

    How to Revive an Air Plant

    A healthy air plant should have leaves that range from green to gray. When you pick up the plant, it should stay intact. In other words, on a healthy air plant, leaves should not fall.

    There are several things you can do to revive a plant. Here are the steps I take to help my air plants regain their health.

    Give the Air Plant an Overnight Soak

    The first place I always start when I’m reviving an air plant is with watering. Remember, air plants don’t require soil, but that does not mean they don’t need water. Just like every other living being, water is absolutely essential to air plants!

    Since air plants do not have soil, they have to absorb moisture and that all-important water through their leaves rather than a root system. There have been too many times I have heard that garden centers recommend spritzing air plants with water a few times a week. In my experience, this is not enough water and will leave the plant thirsty. If this happens long enough, it will lead to a dead air plant, sadly!

    how to revive a dead air plant with water
    Air plants should be soaked in water, not spritzed or misted.

    How Long Should I Soak My Air Plant?

    To ensure my air plants meet their water requirements, I give them an hour-long bath. In the warmer summer months, I do this weekly, and in the winter, about every three weeks or so. I live in the rainforest, so I like to use rainwater. However, you can use tap water as well! Just leave the water out for 24 hours to allow the chlorine to evaporate.

    Then, simply remove the air plant from whatever container it is in and submerge it in a bowl of water. The bowl should be large enough that the plant can submerge totally.

    Leave it in the bath for an hour or so, then take it out. Give your air plant a few gentle shakes while upside down to make sure the water isn’t pooling in its leaves.

    Tip the air plant upside down or on its side to ensure it has fully dried out before placing it back in its container. Pooling water can rot your air plant, so don’t skip this step.

    For troubleshooting and for even more information on proper water, read this article I put together about how to water air plants.

    air plants drying on a wire rack
    Leave your air plants to fully dry after their bath.

    Make Sure Your Air Plant Has Air!

    This may seem obvious, but your air plant needs oxygen to live! There are many images floating around of air plants stored in a closed jar that make me shake my headthe plant cannot survive in an airtight environment!

    The solution is easyyou can still keep your cute jar terrarium, but make sure to leave the lid cracked or open so air can circulate freely.

    Air plants in sealed vs. unsealed terrariums. Tillandsia need air circulation.
    Make sure your air plant is getting air circulation.

    Remove Dead Leaves

    You’ll also want to remove any dead leaves from a sick air plant by gently tugging at them to see if they come off. If they remove easily, they are dead. If the whole plant falls apart when you do this, you’ve got a dead air plant that has already bit the dust, unfortunately.

    However, if only a few leaves come off and the inside leaves are green and healthy-looking, your air plant is going to make it with the proper care!

    air plant with dead leaves
    Dead leaves should easily come off.

    Look at the Tips of Your Air Plant

    If the tips of your air plant are turning brown, try using rainwater or unchlorinated water, as described above. If you are not giving them chlorine, but they are still turning brown, then your plant may not be getting enough water.

    Give them an overnight bath, then make sure that you are bathing them more often.

    air plant with brown leaves
    Brown tips occur from chlorinated water or not enough water.

    What if My Air Plant Falls Apart?

    If you have a green air plant that just falls apart, you’ve got a dead air plant on your hands. This probably occurred due to sitting in standing water too long, or it was not shaken off properly after bath time.

    Read the section about watering again, and you’ll surely have better luck with the next one!

    air plants in need of soaking and pruning
    Air plants in need of soaking and pruning.

    Sick Air Plant FAQ

    Should I soak my blooming air plant?

    First of all, congratulations! It can be hard to get an air plant to bloom, so you’re doing things right. Air plant flowers should not get wet, as it can cause them to rot. Try to water your air plant by submerging the leaves only, and not the flower.

    Can I remove a dead flower from an air plant?

    Yes, you can remove the flower. It should fall off on its own, but you can also cut it back to where it is brown. Now that the plant has flowered, it should set pups, and the mother plant will die back. Don’t be concerned when this happens because it’s all part of the life cycle.

    My air plant is changing colour. Is this normal?

    Changing colours for an air plant can mean a lot of different things, especially since there are so many varieties. If it’s brightening, it’s likely blooming or adapting to the environment; this is no cause of concern. Many tillandsias turn redish.

    If the colour is fading, it might not be getting enough light or water. If there is brown or black colouring, especially at the base, this could be a sign of rot.

    How do you water an air plant that is glued to something?

    This is one of my pet peeves about air plants because it’s difficult to take care of them once they’re permanently attached to something. If you’re able, you can try to soak the entire thing, but this can make it difficult to dry properly, so your air plant can rot. Your best bet is to spritz it regularly, every day if needed.

    I keep my air plants in these homemade wire and rock displays where I can easily remove them for their bath.

    I hope this guide helps you revive an air plant and keep your plant collection thriving! If you love air plants as much as I do, be sure to check out the articles below.

    More Tips for Growing Air Plants

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    Stephanie Rose

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  • Creamy Earl Grey Infused Bergamot Soap Recipe – Garden Therapy

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    If you love the smell of Earl Grey tea as much as the taste, you’ll want to give this bergamot soap recipe a go! Infused with real tea and lavender, this creamy soap feels as luxurious as sipping a hot cup of tea on a crisp morning. For those who boil multiple cups a day, this tea soap is a must-try!

    Have you ever had a London fog before? Originally from Vancouver, it was invented in the 1980s by Mary Loria who would request the drink while pregnant.

    In the past couple of years, I see the drink listed at every café as its popularity grows. And I can’t get enough of it! It’s essentially an Earl Grey latte with a splash of vanilla syrup. And as I do with all my favourite things, I make soap out of it!

    For this soap, I combined my love for London fogs and Earl Grey tea with another herbal fave, lavender. Together, you get a delicious aroma and ultra-moisturizing soap that feels so silky on the skin.

    bergamot and lavender soap

    It looks as beautiful as it smells. Coloured 100% naturally with the herbs and tea, additional flecks of purple mica make this bergamot and lavender soap shine. On top, I added butterfly pea flower and lavender buds for the final pop of colour.

    So, if you’re the type of person to start your day off with a cuppa tea, you’re going to love this Earl grey inspired tea soap.

    This post covers…

    London fog soap

    How to Make London Fog Bergamot Soap

    People (including me!) go crazy over the scent of Earl Grey, so I had to make a soap inspired by the tea! Combined with lavender and the sweet, creamy aroma of benzoin resin, it smells just like a lavender London fog.

    If this is your first time making soap, find detailed instructions on how to make soap here before getting started. Then, come back to this post for this specific bergamot soap recipe.

    Materials

    bergamot soap recipe

    Ingredients

    For exact measurements, see the recipe card below.

    Jump to Recipe

    Infuse Oil

    Before you begin making your soap, you’ll want to infuse some of the oils. For this recipe, I infuse the Early Grey tea in some olive oil, and some dried lavender buds in the coconut oil. Do this in a double boiler over medium-low heat.

    Once melted, add in your Earl Grey tea bags to your olive oil, and 1 cup of lavender buds to your coconut oil, and turn the stovetop down to low. Let the oil infuse with the tea bags and lavender for a few hours or until the smell is aromatic.

    You can strain using a fine sieve first then a coffee filter or cheesecloth for a second time. Check out more on how to infuse oils with herbs.

    After you’ve infused the oils, you’re ready to make some soap!

    Note: You will infuse olive oil and coconut oil before weighing them for the recipe. If you weigh beforehand, you won’t have the right amount of oil for the recipe once you strain out the tea/lavender.

    DIY bergamot soap

    Make Your Bergamot Soap

    1. Weigh your ingredients. Heat your oils and shea butter over medium heat until you’ve reached 115°F.
    2. In a heatproof container, stir together your lye and water in a well-ventilated area. Stir until fully dissolved. Then, cool in an ice bath until it’s 115°F.
    3. When both the oils and lye water are at the right temperature, combine the lye into the oils in a large bowl. Mix with an immersion blender until you’ve reached a light trace.
    4. Add your bergamot essential oil, lavender essential oil, and benzoin resin. Blend again.
    5. Pour your soap into the soap mold. Sprinkle your purple mica powder on top. With a chopstick, mix your mica through to give the soap little purple flecks.
    6. Top the bars with butterfly pea flowers and lavender buds.
    7. Let your soap rest for 48 hours wrapped in a towel and set on top of the fridge.
    8. After 2 days, cut your soap into even bars. Let cure for 6 weeks in a cool, dark space.
    Earl Grey tea soap

    Frequently Asked Questions About Bergamot Soap

    Why does Earl Grey smell so good?

    Named after a British prime minister, Earl Grey, the tea is a mixture of black tea leaves either sprayed with bergamot extract or essential oil or mixed with bergamot rinds. So what you’re smelling is primarily bergamot oil! It’s slightly citrusy and floral, two very popular scents for the nose.

    Is bergamot good for skin?

    You can’t go wrong when it comes to bergamot and your skin. Full of antioxidants, bergamot fights against premature aging. The antibacterial properties also make it work as a natural cleanser to unclog pores and balance sebum (your skin’s natural oils). But perhaps its most well-known benefit for the skin is its ability to help with scarring, such as acne scars, stretch marks, and hyperpigmentation.

    Is Earl Grey good for skin?

    Also known as bergamot tea, Earl Grey is made from black tea leaves combined with fruit from the Citrus bergamia tree. Bergamot itself has plenty of health benefits, but most studies focus on essential oils rather than tea.

    Luckily, this soap recipe has bergamot essential oil as well as tea! You can get a double dose of bergamot benefits, such as antioxidants, cleansing properties, and scar healing.

    how to make bergamot soap

    If you love Earl Grey tea as much as I do, then you’ll want to make sure to make a batch of this bergamot soap. It smells just like the real thing! Let me know how it goes for you in the comments below.

    More Ways to Make Soap

    Creamy Earl Grey Infused Bergamot Soap Recipe

    Made with real Earl Grey tea, this creamy and beautiful bergamot soap recipe smells just like the real thing.

    • Make your infused oils, making more oil than you need for the recipe (you’ll lose some when it strains). Heat your olive oil over medium-low heat. Add in your tea bags and set to a simmer. After a few hours, strain your oil using a fine sieve and then again with a coffee filter or cheesecloth.

    • Repeat the same steps, this time infusing the coconut oil with lavender buds.

    • Weigh your ingredients for soap making.

    • Combine all the oils and shea butter over low heat until 115°F. While heating, add your lye to the water in a heatproof container. Stir until completely dissolved. Place in an ice bath until it also reaches 115°F.

    • In a large mixing bowl, add your lye water to your oils. Use an immersion blender to blend until it reaches a light trace.

    • Add in your essential oils and benzoin resin. Blend again.

    • Pour into a soap mold. Sprinkle the purple mica powder on top and use a chopstick to mix through the soap.

    • Sprinkle butterfly pea flowers and lavender buds on top.

    • Let soap rest for 48 hours wrapped in a towel.

    • After 48 hours, cut the soap and let it cure for 6 weeks in a cool, dark location.

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    Stephanie Rose

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  • Yarrow: The Low Maintenance, Powerhouse Flower – Garden Therapy

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    With tiny clusters of white, yellow, pink, and red flowers, many bypass the beauty of yarrow for its medicinal benefits. In the home garden, it can be a double hitter! Learn all about the amazing benefits of this herbal plant and how you can grow it in your own garden.

    If you’ve been looking to add to your flower bed or herb garden, yarrow will bring you beautiful flowers and amazing health benefits all in one pretty plant. In addition to being drought-resistant and a great attractor of butterflies, yarrow has powerful medicinal qualities dating back all the way to Ancient Greece.

    Known as Achillea millefolium, yarrow is an herbaceous perennial native to Europe and Asia with distinct feathery foliage and clustered white flowers (though you can find them in other colours too).

    But what about caring for a yarrow plant? I have good news for you! Yarrow is very carefree and will grow happily almost anywhere, making it a perfect plant for beginning herbalists and gardeners alike!

    Below I’ll walk you through everything you need to know about growing and caring for yarrow plants, as well as their many benefits and uses.

    This post will cover…

    red and orange yarrow

    LoriAnn’s Green Blessing

    This article was reviewed by herbalist LoriAnn Bird. This is not to be used as personal medical advice; always consult your health care professional for individual concerns.

    Here is what LoriAnn had to say about yarrow:
    Yarrow is found in the circumpolar region of the globe as another subspecies, A.borealis. In the book Plants of Coastal British Columbia by Pojar and MacKinnon, we read that many Coast Salish People of the Pacific Northwest administered yarrow for various conditions that correlate with our Western Herbal Traditions, how interesting! 

    Note only the white flower species Achillea millefolium is medicinal and this relationship with the human species dates back to the time of the Neandertral 40-60,000 years ago.  I remind the children that you can roll the fresh leaf/flower or use it dried between your fingers and stuff up the nose when it’s bleeding. It will stop immediately.

    Yarrow has a very diverse nutritional profile so we can add it to tinctures in vinegar (I prefer apple cider vinegar), which is known to extract out the minerals to help support our endocrine system (hormones). 

    Yarrow is known to help the liver cleanse out too many hormones in the system, can be used for facial steams, improve digestion, and we can also make a flower essence tincture. Flower essences help with our emotional health. Protecting oneself from within.  Know that I am a source of my own protection.

    Caution do not use when pregnant or if you have allergies in the Asterceae family.

    Yarrow Benefits

    The yarrow plant has been used medicinally for thousands of years, back to Ancient Greece and Ancient Egypt. Its versatility makes it a must-have in any herbalist’s collection, as its flowers, stalks, and leaves can all make teas, tinctures, and infusions. You can use the yarrow in your garden as a wound healer, aromatic bitter, fever breaker, and much more.

    Many know yarrow as a wound healer. During WWI, medics used yarrow to treat soldiers’ wounds, earning it the nicknames Soldiers’ Woundwort and Nosebleed. It’s antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, and can be used as an antiseptic and styptic to stop bleeding when made into a poultice.

    Yarrow is also a handy plant to have saved during cold and flu season! It’s a widely used diaphoretic, which means it is a powerful fever breaker during those awful shakes when consumed as tea. If you’re congested, yarrow can also help encourage mucus elimination from the sinuses and aid with reducing inflammation.

    Believe it or not, there are even more benefits. This powerful plant can also reduce urinary tract infections, relieve gastrointestinal distress, lessen menstrual cramps, and lower blood pressure.

    All around, the yarrow is a must-have. Plus, who doesn’t want to see more ladybugs and butterflies in their garden come spring?

    yellow yarrow

    How to Plant Yarrow

    The wild white flowered yarrow (Achillea millefolium) is what is used for medicinal purposes, but there are so many other vibrant colours available to add to your garden. Yarrow plants are often sold as potted perennials and then propagated by division. If you buy your yarrow as a plant with many stalks in one nursery pot, you can separate them into individual planters or into rows in your garden beds very easily.

    First, lift the plant from its nursery pot. Gently remove excess dirt from its roots. Identify the individual stalks or clusters of plants that you want to divide. With a sharp, clean knife cut the sections of plants free from each other, leaving a good section of roots attached to each plant.

    If you’re planting into a garden bed, space your plants 12 to 24 inches apart. Cover the root systems in new soil in a section of your garden that gets full sun.

    red yarrow in a garden

    Starting Yarrow from Seed

    If you’ve bought yarrow as seeds to start yourself, you’ll want to start them somewhere from six to eight weeks before your last frost date. Sow your yarrow seeds in your regular potting soil. Barely cover them and mist them so that the soil is moist.

    If you keep your seeds in a sunny, warm spot in your home (hello, windowsill!) you should see your seeds start to pop up within 14 to 21 days. If it’s a little chillier where you are and you’re worried about germination times, you can always cover the soil with some plastic wrap to trap in the heat and then remove the plastic once you see the seeds pop up.

    When you go to move your seedlings into their permanent homes, they’ll thank you for going in well-draining soil. But, they aren’t picky plants! These plants will often grow even in dry soil.

    orange yarrow

    Yarrow Plant Care

    Sun

    Alright, you’ve started your yarrow and you’re ready to get them growing tall and beautiful! Yarrow needs full sun in order to thrive.

    Water

    If you live in a climate that gets less rainfall, don’t worry! Yarrow is very drought resistant and tends to survive dry spells.

    Once you have your yarrow in the ground it needs very little maintenance. Unless you receive less than 1 inch of rain a week in the summer, you don’t need to water these plants hardly at all.

    Fertilizer

    If you’re hoping to see your yarrow spread, take it from me—these plants don’t need it! They are very hardy plants and will thrive without any fertilizer. However, if you are in a severe drought and see your plants start to wither, you can fertilize sparingly with water to keep them alive.

    white yarrow

    Pruning

    Though yarrow needs very little maintenance, it’s smart to deadhead flowers when you see them fade partway through the summer. This gives your plants their best chance to grow another round of flowers before the season’s end.

    It’s also important to note that yarrow plants are speedy growers and aggressive spreaders. They can grow to be 2 to 4 feet tall and will spread rapidly if left unwatched. Best to keep your eye on these plants, lest they take over your whole garden!

    If you see them start to spread more than you’d like, you can dig up the new plants and share them with friends or transplant them to another area of your garden.

    Common Issues

    Lucky for us, yarrow is a very easy plant that usually stays free of disease. However, pests and diseases are inevitable in most gardens and some may find your yarrow attractive.

    If you’re going to face issues with your yarrow, it is likely to be either botrytis mold or powdery mildew. Both of these look like spotting white powder covering the leaves of the yarrow. In both cases, the plant can be treated with natural pest control and you should see the problem clear up in no time.

    Occasionally, you might see spittlebugs take up residence in your yarrow, but these little crawlers can be easily removed. You can remove them by hand, wipe up their foam, and drop the larvae into soapy water to dispose of them.

    yellow yarrow plant

    Harvesting

    When you’re ready to harvest your yarrow, choose a warm, sunny day when the plants are in full bloom. This is very important! The flowers must be fully opened in order to harvest.

    Once opened, check to make sure that any dew collected on the plant overnight has dried. Then, cut the stem of the plant with a sharp pair of scissors above a leaf node.

    Frequently Asked Questions About Yarrow

    What is Yarrow?

    Yarrow is a flowering perennial plant known for its clustered flowers and a vast array of medicinal uses. It is commonly used to heal wounds and lower fevers and can be grown very easily in most gardens.

    Where Do You Find Yarrow?

    In the wild, yarrow can be found in sunny locations along roadsides, fields, and lawns throughout North America, Europe, Asia, Australia, Africa, and South America.

    What is Yarrow Good For?

    Yarrow is a powerful plant often used for its antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties both internally and externally. They can be brewed as tea, made into tinctures or infusions. Yarrow can also act as a styptic to stop bleeding and clean wounds.

    Is Yarrow a Perennial?

    Yarrow is a hardy, flowering perennial that can survive frost in the winter and bloom again in the warmer months. Once you’ve got them planted and well established in the growing months, you can rely on these plants to bloom again year after year.

    orange and red yarrow

    Let me know any other questions you may have about yarrow down below. Happy growing!

    More Herbal Growing Guides

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    Stephanie Rose

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  • Hybrid, GMO, or Heirloom Seeds: Here’s What You Need to Know – Garden Therapy

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    No doubt you’ve heard the buzz about heirloom seeds. But what really is the difference between heirloom, hybrid, GMO, and other terms like open-pollinated when it comes to seeds?  Today, I want to demystify these terms so you can choose the right seeds for you and your garden. 

    Throughout my many years of seed-starting, I have learned numerous tips and tricks when it comes to growing a garden from seed. My garden begins each year with ordering seeds and getting them started indoors. In my book, Get Growing! Expert Seed-Starting for the DIY Gardener, I cover the foundations of seed-starting for indoor and outdoor plants.

    There are always so many options when it comes to seeds. You can end up like me, with more seeds than my garden could possibly hold. But every year, I always ensure I plant plenty of flowers, herbs, and vegetables from seed.

    Today, I wanted to share the answer to a question that seems to create a bunch of confusion, “What’s the deal with heirloom, hybrid, open-pollinated, GMO, and treated seeds?”

    Heirloom, Hybrid, and GMO Seeds: What the Heck are They?

    When it comes to seeds, it can be difficult to know where to start and easy to get mixed up about what terms like “hybrid” or “heirloom” actually mean. Once you understand the difference between heirloom, hybrid, and GMO seeds, you can go about choosing the type of seeds that are right for you, and avoiding the ones that aren’t.

    Chive seed heads growing in the garden

    What are Heirloom Seeds?

    After WWII and well into the 1970s, commercial vegetables dominated the market and older varieties were increasingly difficult to find. Most of today’s heirloom varieties were originally preserved from home gardeners and their family gardens. Heirloom vegetables can be classified as a plant that has been cultivated for more than 50 years.

    Heirloom seeds have been saved and passed on for many generations. The plant, flowers, and fruit remain true to the type of the original great-great-great-(insert 50 years here)-grandmother plant. The seeds retain the parent plant’s outstanding qualities, be it beauty, flavor, and yield, or disease, pest, and weather resistance.

    The plants themselves are open-pollinated and each characteristic of the parent plant passes down to the next generation. For many heirloom plants, isolation ensures that plants grown close together are not cross-pollinated. If harvested and stored properly, and free from any diseases, they should turn out exactly like the parent plant.

    Heirloom plants provide much diversity from the standard fare available in grocery stores or garden centers. There are many colorful and unique plant varieties, but beauty and diversity alone doesn’t define a heirloom.

    How Do I Get Heirloom Seeds?

    Some people are lucky enough to have heirloom seeds passed down from generations past. For the rest of us, however, we can purchase heirloom seeds from your local nursery, or online.

    Heirloom Vegetables in a barrow

    What are Hybrid Seeds?

    Hybrid seeds come from cross-pollinating strong characteristics of different varieties, making brand-spanking-new varieties. The plants produced can look and taste as good as heirlooms. They may even taste better, be more disease resistant, or be easier to grow.

    Hybrids make the widespread distribution of vegetables easier. They can offer better disease resistance, less labour-intensive growing, higher overall yields, uniformity, and easy harvesting. This all makes it more profitable for commercial growers.

    Hybrid seeds are bred in fields or greenhouses by cross-pollinating different varieties of plants to create desirable and interesting traits. Some of the results of the hybrids are better than the parents, and some are worse. Through plenty of experimentation and then many years of subsequent testing for control and reliability, new hybrids with amazing new features are born.

    Part art and part science, hybridization growers take the time to grow only the best possible plants for a successful harvest.

    Both heirloom and hybrid seeds can give you quality plants. Hybrids make for modern day success; heirlooms have stood the test of time.

    Nasturtium and flowers on a barn wall

    What are Open-Pollinated Seeds?

    All heirlooms are open-pollinated plants, but not all open-pollinated plants are heirlooms. Open pollination occurs from insects, wind, birds, and humans passing pollen from plant to plant. Both hybrid and heirloom seeds can reproduce through open pollination.

    When the plant is pollinated by a plant of the same variety, or through self-pollination, it is an heirloom plant. Any seeds from these plants hold their parent plant’s traits.

    When a plant cross pollinates with other varieties, it becomes a hybrid plant. Both can occur naturally or with the help of a human hand. But, any seeds saved from the hybrid plant will not carry the same traits as the parent plant.

    What are Organic Seeds?

    Organic seeds are seeds grown and saved using certified organic methods. It doesn’t mean that the seeds that are not organic are treated with pesticides or herbicides. It just means that the farms that produced the seeds had organic certification.

    Kale and Herbs in the sky

    What are GMO Seeds?

    First, let’s not confuse GMOs with hybrid seeds. GMOs, or Genetically Modified Organisms, are created through experimental biotechnology that, according to the Non-GMO Project, “merges DNA from different species, creating unstable combinations of plant, animal, bacterial and viral genes that cannot occur in nature or in traditional crossbreeding.”

    Currently, no seeds sold for home gardens are GMOs; those are created for commercial crops only. There isn’t a need to search for non-GMO labeling on seed packets for the home garden. Seeds meant for home as opposed to commercial use will not be genetically modified.

    What About Treated Seeds?

    Treated seeds come coated with an herbicide or pesticide to help prevent fungus and insect damage. They are often brightly dyed to indicate their treatment and labeled as “treated” on the packaging. I avoid using treated seeds as I do not want herbicides and pesticides in my garden.

    However, there are some coated seeds that are safe to use. Many tiny, modern seeds like marigolds or lettuce, can have a coloured coating that LOOKS like treated seeds, but aren’t. These seeds have something similar to a candy coating and are intended to help the gardener pick them up more easily. Refer to the seed’s packaging for confirmation about the type of coating on your seeds.

    seeds growing in a pack

    The Benefits of Growing Hybrid Seeds

    Hybrid seeds result from many years of breeding the perfect plant! Don’t think of mad scientists concocting unnatural plants; think of farmers and gardeners making special and strong varieties. Many farmers, seed companies, and even home gardeners spend years and many seasons cross-pollinating select plants in hopes that they created the perfect combination of genes.

    For example, you can combine one tomato plant known for producing a ton of fruit with another tomato variety known as more disease resistant. Traits you can look for include: easier to grow, quick growers, adaptable to their environment, bigger fruit, more fruit, disease resistance, and shelf life.

    You can combine hybrids until you have the combination of traits you are looking for. A staple for many farmers, hybrid plants become more dependable and fruitful each year. While you can’t save the seeds and get the guaranteed traits like an heirloom plant, you can reproduce hybrids through cuttings.

    edible flowers Garden Therapy seeds

    The Benefits of Growing Heirloom Seeds

    While hybrid plants have made grocery shopping easier, heirloom plants have many benefits for the home gardener. You can find a ton of new flavours, colours, and shapes when growing heirloom seeds. Their lack of uniformity can even mean different ripening times, for a harvest that lasts longer.

    If you have grown your heirloom seeds for a while, this means they work well in your geographical region. They are used to the weather, growing conditions, and have resistance to diseases and pests in your area.

    Lastly, you get to save a little piece of history. There is something so special about growing the same plant as perhaps your grandmother. Just like everything in the world, vegetable varieties can become extinct. We must work together to pass on heirloom seeds and their gene pool to the next generation.

    container with seedlings and soil markers

    Are Heirloom Seeds Illegal?

    When it comes to seed saving, things can get a little complicated. For the most part, the legality issues with saving seeds center around farmers. Many GMO and hybrid seeds are patented. This means that any farmers who grow the seeds must sign an agreement stating they will grow the seeds for only that year. The following year, they cannot save those same seeds and instead must purchase them again.

    In the EU, it is illegal to sell any vegetable cultivar that is not included in the national list. Many believe this to be a leading cause in the loss of many heritage varieties as it is difficult and expensive to get on the list. The US protects growing plants from divisions, cuttings, and seeds, and laws vary state by state.

    When it comes to heirloom plants, we enter a bit of a grey area. If you are not selling heirloom plants or their seeds, that is fine. In addition, many heirloom seeds have been around for generations, making them a part of public domain.

    tomato seeds grown from heirloom seeds in a jar

    The Cultural Significance of Seed Saving

    The legalities surrounding seed saving for farmers and other gardeners does impose on years of tradition. Before you could purchase commercial seeds, generations and gardens passed down seeds. It is a process that should still be honoured.

    When slave owners forced African people onto their ships, many of the women braided seeds into their hair in order to survive and bring their culture onward. Leah Penniman talked about this cultural significance in her book Farming While Black and I highly encourage you to read it. For many, continuing to grow their seeds is honouring their ancestors’ work and legacy.

    The WTO governs many rules surrounding seed saving, with many farmers in developing countries increasingly affected by the regulations. Restricting people’s access to seeds makes growing food inaccessible for many.

    As our population grows and biodiversity decreases, we need people to grow healthy, sustainable food more than ever. Swapping seeds and varieties with other farmers also helps to increase biodiversity. Saving seeds holds a significance culturally and environmentally that needs to be looked at before we accept that modern corporations control seed saving.

    More Posts About Growing and Planting Seeds:

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    Stephanie Rose

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  • Strawberries in Containers

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    Growing strawberries in containers is the best way to enjoy this pretty, easy-to-grow berry. Learn how to do it the best way and get the biggest yield.

    When most people think of container gardening, flowers are often the first things that come to mind. Container gardening is becoming increasingly popular as an easy and inexpensive way to brighten up your space. In addition to flowers, this year try something different: strawberries in containers.

    Strawberries are one of the easiest plants to grow in containers. With strawberries, you get a plant with pretty foliage and flowers. Of course, you also get the added benefit of yummy fruit to snack on too!

    Different Types of Strawberries

    There are three main categories of strawberries: June-bearing, Everbearing, and Day-neutral. Each type is better suited for a specific container.

    Something to keep in mind is that when shopping for strawberries, the varieties will not always specify which category the strawberries will fall under. Ask the garden center associate to aid you in the category identification.

    Woman holding a heart-shaped strawberry attached to a vine

    June-Bearing Strawberries

    June-bearing strawberries produce a large, concentrated crop once a year during late spring or early summer (usually in June). They send out a lot of runners that can quickly become a tangle of vines.

    Because of this, June-bearing strawberries are better suited for a garden bed instead of a container.

    Everbearing Strawberries

    Everbearing strawberries’ fruiting season stretches from early spring until fall. They send out fewer runners and will not produce as much fruit as the June-bearing types.

    Although it will produce fewer berries, it’s enough for snacking and tastes better than any store-bought berries. This category does well in containers.

    Day-Neutral Strawberries

    Day-neutral is a newer variety of everbearing strawberries. They produce more consistently throughout the growing season. Day-neutral strawberries prefer cooler temperatures and will not bear fruit in hot weather. If you live in an area with hot summers, skip this category.

    home grown strawberries in containers freshly picked in a bowlTools Needed for Growing Strawberries

    When you grow strawberries in containers, you’ll have relatively few tools that you need. Plus, you already may have many of these at home! You’ll need to have:

    Type of Pots That Are Best For Growing Strawberries

    When selecting a container for strawberries, pick a pot that will be large enough: at least 8-12 inches wide.

    You may have noticed that strawberry pots look different from your standard plant pots. This is because strawberries have a spreading growth habit and shallow roots.

    For this reason, a specific strawberry pot is often the best place to grow your berry vines. A wide, shallow container is another good choice. Most importantly, the container must have good drainage.

    Lastly, select a pot that is light-colored; this will help keep the plant’s roots cool in the summer.

    close up of strawberries growing out of a pot

    Growing Strawberries in Containers

    Do strawberries do well in pots? Yes, and it may even be possible to grow strawberries indoors. However, you should be very careful and follow these tips to help them thrive.

    #1 Use the Correct Soil

    Strawberries prefer a loose, loamy soil with a pH between 5.3 and 6.5 (acidic). If you are unsure of what your potting soil’s pH is, it’s pretty easy to do a soil pH test at home. All you need is water, vinegar, and baking soda.

    #2 Give the Plants Plenty of Sunshine

    Next, you need to pick a spot that gives the plant lots of sunlight. Select an area that receives 6-8 hours of sun per day.

    #3 When to Plant Strawberries

    You can plant strawberries in the early spring or in the fall (if you live in a warm area). Strawberries are sensitive to the cold weather, so avoid frost if you can.

    Remember, day-neutral strawberries prefer the cold (just not too cold), and will not produce in a hot climate.

    #4 Spread Them Apart

    Your strawberry plants need to be spaced at least 2 ft apart, so only plant 1 or 2 plants per container. Remember, these plants like to spread out as they grow, so give them plenty of room.

    #5 Plant the Seeds in the Container

    Fill the container with a potting mix and make a small mound in the middle. Spread the roots out over the mound. Cover the roots and up to the crown with additional mix and water well.

    How to Care for Strawberries in Containers 

    woman holding three strawberries on the vine - one ripe and red, the other green

    Caring for strawberries in containers is different than caring for them when they are planted outside.

    #1 Water the Strawberries Frequently

    First of all, containers require frequent waterings, but only water when the soil is dry to the touch. You may have to water daily during hot weather. This is because containers dry out faster than soil in the ground.

    The challenge with a strawberry jar is that the shape of it can make getting the water properly saturated to the center of the pot a bit difficult. Without proper watering, your berries will have shallow roots that do not lend themselves to thriving plants.

    One fun trick I use is to employ a DIY watering tube that will help get direct the water to the middle of the pot where it’s needed to grow those juicy berries. I put together a post on Angie’s List showing how to make an easy DIY watering tube perfect for strawberries in containers.

    starwberry pot with diy irrigation system

    Additionally, make sure to feed your strawberries every 3-4 weeks with a liquid fertilizer.

    #2 Overwinter the Strawberries

    You can overwinter strawberries. They will produce better the following year if they are allowed to go dormant during the winter.

    If you live in an area that gets extremely cold, move your strawberry containers into an unheated garage or basement in the winter. Water the container only when the soil becomes dry. In milder winter climates, mulch up around the container and leave it until spring.

    You can read a bit about how to overwinter succulents in this post. It’s a similar concept.

    Do you have to replace strawberry plants?

    Strawberries are short-lived perennials. Even with the most dedicated care, you will have to replace the plants about every 3 years.

    No worries, though. Enjoy them for a season, then reevaluate. If you are able to get them to grow again for an additional summer, it will be well worth the effort.

    I’m a big fan of strawberries, as you may be able to tell from the list below! Here are posts for everything you need to know about these sweet berries from how to grow them to how to eat them!

     

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    Stephanie Rose

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  • How to Make Enough Compost for My Garden: Urban Composting Fix

    How to Make Enough Compost for My Garden: Urban Composting Fix

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    Adding compost to your soil is one of the best things you can do for your garden. So, no wonder you want to produce as much of it as possible! When it comes to urban composting, you want to think beyond the traditional, small compost bin so you can get as much of the garden gold as possible.

    I gush about composting the same way someone gushes about their partner. Compost is pure garden gold. It’s one of the easiest, most affordable ways to improve your garden’s soil. All while preventing more waste from ending up in the landfill.

    In my garden, I don’t use any fertilizer. Most of my garden beds have all the necessary nutrients already in the soil, with compost improving the organic matter, microbes, and soil structure. When using compost, your soil will be able to hold more moisture, be more aerated, and have more nutritional value for your plants.

    Compost is pretty cool hey?

    While many think composting may be as easy as tossing all your kitchen waste in a pile, it’s not that simple. It’s also not hard to do when done right.

    If, like me, you need lots of compost to kickstart a new gardening space, here’s how you can maximize your small space composting system.

    compact composting at homecompact composting at home
    Amend soil with compost annually or more often when you have compost readily available.

    How to Make Compost

    To make compost, you need four key ingredients: nitrogen, carbon, air, and moisture.

    Nitrogen is full of “greens” like kitchen scraps, grass clippings, and trimmings from your gardens. You need one part of nitrogen.

    Next, you need two to three parts of “browns” as the carbon source. These are typically dry and bulk, like paper, straw, or other shredded woody material.

    Compost needs to be turned regularly to encourage air (oxygen) to help speed up composition, as well as moisture.

    You can learn more about how to master making compost in this post. This method is what you traditionally use in a compost bin or pile for your backyard.

    But unless you have lots of space, it’s hard to make enough compost to feed a new garden with poor soil. And even if you do have lots of space, that probably means you need even more compost than the average gardener!

    small space compostingsmall space composting
    Spread compost in a thick layer over the soil when the garden is unproductive. It does not need to be turned into the top layer of the soil.

    How I’m Managing My Urban Composting System

    I’m in my first spring in my new home. The yard is quite neglected, full of poor drainage and patchy grass.

    In the back is a large raised bed left behind by the previous owners. About 10 ft by 7 ft, it goes right up against the neighbour’s fence. Because of this design, getting to the back corner without climbing into the bed is impossible.

    I built pathways in it last summer, but it is wasted space. So, I’m ripping the whole thing out this upcoming summer to create a more functional gardening bed.

    Right now, I’m dumping every ounce of greens and browns I have in the raised bed in hopes that I’ll make tons of compost. I have plans for a food forest, and I’ll need all the compost I can get to feed my neglected soil.

    compost pile with coffee grounds on topcompost pile with coffee grounds on top
    This compost pile is topped with coffee grounds, a great kitchen scrap addition.

    How Can I Make Enough Compost for My Whole Garden?

    The secret to making lots of compost is to use as many different methods as possible rather than relying on one traditional, small compost bin. Rather than removing any organic matter from your garden or throwing out kitchen scraps, find ways to use it in your garden.

    Here are some of the methods I’ll use to utilize compact composting.

    Mulching

    Mulches are incredibly popular with permaculturalists and gardeners because of the regenerative properties they provide for the soil. The protective layer of organic material keeps the soil temperatures more consistent, deters surface evaporation, and decomposes slowly to add nutrients.

    Here’s what you can use in your garden as mulch deriving from nature:

    • Leaf mold
    • Wood chips (nothing dyed)
    • Pine straw/conifer needles
    • Straw Cardboard (broken into smaller 6–12-inch pieces)
    • Grass clippings
    • Seaweed

    As a form of urban composting, add a layer of mulch over any of your garden beds in the fall. It will insulate the soil and eventually break down into the soil.

    sheet mulchingsheet mulching
    Sheet mulching is the process of building a new garden bed or soil in layers or sheets using various carbon and nitrogen source materials.

    Chop and Drop

    Chop and drop is a form of mulching where you cut back the plant material in your garden and leave it on top of the soil surface to decompose in place.

    This will feed the roots of their own kind, mimicking how they fertilize the soil in nature. Avoid plants that have gone to seed and only use disease- and pest-free materials.

    This is an excellent form of compact composting that you can do during the growing season as you work in the garden.

    chop and drop mulchingchop and drop mulching
    Wild plants and volunteers make great chop-and-drop mulch. Cut them before they go to seed.

    Green Manure

    Also known as cover crops, green manures are plants that are grown with the sole purpose of going back into the soil. The plants typically are nitrogen-fixing crops.

    The plants are pulled or cut down and then chopped into smaller pieces. The top layer turns into mulch on the soil surface (it’s no longer suggested to till it into the soil). Below ground, the remaining roots are left to decompose. As the top and bottom decompose, they provide nutrients and soil-conditioning effects.

    To use green manures as a form of urban composting, they work best in larger gardening beds, or if you want to feed a new lawn.

    lupinslupins
    Legumes such as lupines (Lupinis spp.) offer many benefits, such as nitrogen-fixing, erosion control, and attracting pollinators.

    Spot Compost

    With only one small compost bin, it can fill up quickly. Rather than continuously piling in more, you want to let the green waste sit and fully decompose before adding in more scraps.

    Spot composting is an easy way to get into composting. To do so, you can dig a hole directly in your gardening bed, add in your green scraps, and then cover it up.

    small space compostingsmall space composting
    Kitchen scraps can include raw or cooked food.

    Worm Bins

    I have pet worms, and so could you! Worm bins are one of my favourite urban composting methods, and they are great for those with minimal space. Vermicomposting is where you use worms to decompose your kitchen scraps alongside carbon materials like straw and paper.

    Here’s how you can make your own worm bin and upkeep it to keep your worms happy and eating.

    vermicomposting is a great urban composting methodvermicomposting is a great urban composting method
     Worm castings (worm poop) look much finer than soil and is very good at holding moisture.

    Do you have more compost questions? Leave them in the comments below, and I’ll get back to you as soon as I can.

    More Tips for Improving Soil

    Pin image for how to make enough compost for your garden when living in a small space.Pin image for how to make enough compost for your garden when living in a small space.

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  • Maximize Your Space and Effort With a Layered Garden – Garden Therapy

    Maximize Your Space and Effort With a Layered Garden – Garden Therapy

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    At some point, annual veggies took over the popularity contest. We’re so used to seeing neat rows of carrots, cucumbers, beans, and tomatoes that we forget there are other more beneficial ways for the home gardener to grow food. Let me introduce the layered garden to you!

    I’m in the midst of planning my next garden at my new house, and I’m thinking big picture. The yard was neglected and minimal, so I’m starting with a pretty well-blank canvas.

    I’ll be designing a food forest, which takes some careful planning and a few years of patience. I have an urban garden and a small yard, but even those with a patio garden can employ these more sustainable, regenerative practices.

    Christina Chung’s book, The Layered Edible Garden, is based on a concept similar to food forests. Rooted in permaculture, it’s all about maximizing your space with a layered garden based on edible perennials.

    These practices are rooted in the same values and energy, so I’m thrilled to share Christina’s approach to the edible garden with you.

    the layered edible garden coverthe layered edible garden cover

    Quotes reprinted with permission from The Layered Edible Garden by Christina Chung © 2024. Published by Cool Springs Press.

    What is a Layered Garden?

    There are many kinds of layered gardens. They are often well-planned and optimize space by combining plants with different heights.

    Christina’s layered gardening practice follows a more natural system that’s less intensive on time, energy, and resources. It tries to fill in all the empty spaces in the garden that weeds might otherwise overtake.

    “Traditional gardening often means fighting against nature taking over the space and turning it back into the thickly planted, layered space it would be without human intervention,” says Christina.

    But a layered garden is also curated. This means it still produces plenty of food similar to traditional veggie gardens. However, it encourages you to think beyond the traditional veggies and focus more on edible perennials.

    It follows permaculture practices and sounds very similar to my beloved food forest practice. But Christina’s approach is “more flexible” and perhaps more focused on gardens with small spaces.

    layered gardening for growing foodlayered gardening for growing food
    You can also include medicinal or herbal plants as well as edible ones.

    Why Layered Gardens Are the Way to Go

    One of the biggest draws of a layered garden is that it optimizes your space. Many gardeners (myself included) are always looking for more gardening space. But many of us don’t consider the vertical spaces and the gaps. Just think how much you could plant under a tree or shrub!

    “Filling in those missing layers creates so much more interest and beauty, and each one offers a chance to add something edible to the mix,” says Christina. “Each added layer can help you get more out of your existing garden space.”

    Layered gardening is also great for your local wildlife. Planting a wider range of plants and less common species may attract more pollinators and beneficial bugs. They even act as bonus natural pest control.

    One of the most immediate benefits you’ll notice is how much more low-maintenance layered gardening is. A fuller garden means less weeding, which is also great for soil health as it minimizes soil disturbances.

    These gardens also rely on perennials more, requiring less seed starting and babying tender young annuals. You will even water less as you rely on perennials more.

    Who Should Plant a Layered Garden?

    I highly recommend layered gardens for those in an urban setting, as they’re great for those with limited space. It’s just one of the best ways to grow more food in a small space.

    But absolutely anyone and any space can practice layered gardening.

    It’s great for food gardeners and cooks but will also work for those who want a beautiful space. You can also have a most ornamental layered garden with food options. Or use this method to create a more lush space and minimize empty space.

    “This is also a gardening style if you want to be creative and build a garden space that doesn’t look like everyone else’s in your neighbourhood,” says Christina. “Landscapes often take on a depressing sameness, with each garden featuring the same ten plants that are cheaply available at every nursery and big-box store.”

    Rather than having distinct rules and practices, layered gardening is more of an overall approach. This means that anyone can benefit and grow from having a layered garden.

    How to Start a Layered Garden

    The first mindset shift of a layered garden is focusing more on perennials. These will naturally fill in the space with larger trees and shrubs and, as mentioned, require significantly less maintenance and resources.

    Since annuals only grow in one season, they require significantly more work. “Supporting all of that quick growth means annuals need more resources,” says Christina. “That means more fertilizer, more water, and richer soil to grow in.”

    Perennials also provide year-round interest, have longer harvest seasons, and support the local ecosystem. Yes, perennials will take several years to establish themselves and produce food. But down the line, it’s so little work.

    When starting your layered garden, start small and work your way up. Don’t try to overhaul the whole garden in one season. Pick one area and start with that.

    Before you rip our existing garden, plan out your layers and consider how you want to use your space. Make sure it’s still enjoyable and that you’re growing what you’re most interested in.

    Start with the tallest layer, as this will affect the others. For instance, a large tree could create more shade, and you must ensure all plants match your garden’s conditions.

    layered garden cherry treelayered garden cherry tree
    Fruit trees take a few years to bear fruit but once they do, provide an abundance of fruit.

    The “Layers” of a Layered Garden

    It’s time we start planning out our layers! I’ll give you a little breakdown of all the different layers, but check out Christina’s book for an in-depth look at the layers and some suggestions on what to grow.

    Canopy Tree Layer

    Your tallest layer begins with the tallest trees. There’s a good chance you already have large trees on your property or your city boulevard. In most cases, you stick with what you have.

    “These are the large trees, reaching over 40 feet (12 m) tall, making them the layer that casts the most shade and has the greatest impact on the rest of your garden space,” says Christina.

    If you don’t have any large trees or are starting a garden completely from scratch, the canopy tree layer is one of the biggest decisions in starting your layered garden.

    Here are a few examples of canopy trees from Christina:

    • Pine
    • Sugar maple
    • Linden
    • Walnut

    Subcanopy Layer

    Your subcanopy layer consists of small trees. Most common fruit trees fall under this category. They take time to get established and bear fruit, but once they do, they provide plenty of food and year-round beauty.

    Christina suggests putting these trees on the edge of your property. “Use subcanopy trees where you need beneficial shade and to gain extra height and screening from foliage, where you want a more compact package than a larger canopy tree,” she says.

    Here are a few examples from Christina of subcanopy trees

    flowering quine flowersflowering quine flowers
    Flowering quince.

    Shrub Layer

    The shrub layer is one of the most prolific and versatile layers. Many shrubs can be edible, beautiful, and also work as privacy screens.

    Many of us already have shrubs in our backyards. And we love them because they’re so low maintenance and easy to work with.

    Here are a sample of shrubs from Christina:

    blueberriesblueberries
    Some shrubs, like blueberries, you can also grow in containers.

    Herbaceous Perennial Layer

    Your herbaceous perennial layer consists of a lot of perennial vegetables and herbs.

    “These plants are smaller than shrubs, so you can pack many of them in even the smallest garden,” says Christina. “There are also many species and varieties to choose from, with lots of edible options.”

    Here is a handful of options for this layer:

    • Hosta
    • Garlic chive
    • Anise hyssop
    • Mint
    • Asparagus
    • Daylily
    • Giant butterbur

    Climber Layer

    One of the best ways to use vertical space is by including some climbers in your garden.

    “Every building on your property has empty walls that could be covered with beautiful and delicious climbers,” says Christina. You can also create spaces just for your climbers, such as trellises, pergolas, and gates. There are many ways to beautify and utilize a climber.

    Here is a sampling of some climbers:

    hopes growing in the gardenhopes growing in the garden
    Hops is a beautiful plant also great for sleep and relaxation.

    Annual Layer

    Yes, there is still room for your traditional veggie garden. After all, how else will you delight in the taste of a freshly grown tomato?

    “Annual crops can also be a great option to fill empty spaces in time,” says Christina. “Most of your herbaceous layer will be dormant in the winter, leaving a bare and inedible garden.”

    Ground Cover Layer

    The low level of the garden shouldn’t be discounted either. Most think of a lawn, but there are more options.

    Christina says, “Small, low-growing, carpeting plants play a key role in protecting the soil from erosion and summer heat while also eliminating places for weed seeds to germinate.”

    Here are some ground cover options:

    • Wild strawberry
    • Wild ginger
    • Wintergreen
    • Thyme
    • Nasturtium

    The Rhizosphere Layer

    Another layer? Yes! There is also plenty going on below the surface. There are many edible and medicinal roots out there. The top of the plant may also contribute to a different layer.

    It should be noted that you do need to disturb the soil to plant these veggies. “Choose locations that you can access easily, such as the perimeter of beds or the back of a border,” says Christina.

    Here are some examples of edible roots:

    • Sunchoke
    • Oca
    • Taro
    • Onions
    • Radish
    harvested sunchokes in wicker basketharvested sunchokes in wicker basket
    Sunchokes.

    And that covers all the layers! For more on this very cool practice of making an edible layered garden, be sure to check out Christina’s book.

    More Tips for Growing Food in Urban Spaces

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    Stephanie Rose

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