Tag: Month August Week 4

How to Trim Hedges (Guide to Pruning) – Garden Therapy
[ad_1]
When properly cared for, hedges can be beautiful ornamental additions to your garden. So how get here from a shapeless and scary shrub? Easy! Learn how to trim hedges! This guide will show you how and when to prune edges, and how to keep them thriving.

When it comes to urban landscaping, nearly every garden has a hedge. They’re great for providing privacy from nearby neighbours as a living green wall.

While shaping a hedge can be a wonderful way to create a backdrop in your garden, it requires some maintenance to keep it looking good for the long term.

Here are some tips on how to prune hedges, along with the tools to use, proper timing, and a few helpful tips.

Low hedges can also be ornamental and help to distinguish spaces and pathways.

How to Trim Hedges

Pruning hedges is very different than pruning trees. When pruning trees and shrubs, I always suggest following the natural lines of the plant. The two exceptions to this rule are hedges and topiaries.

Because growing a number of plants together in a decorative shape fights against how the plants would naturally grow, it’s best to plan the hedge well and then keep up with pruning during its lifetime.

Here is everything you need to know about how to trim hedges.

Choose the Right Hedging Plants

First things first, make sure you’re growing a hedge with plants that respond well to being grown as a hedge. Hedging plants can be deciduous or evergreen; broad-leaf or coniferous. The thing they all have in common is how they respond to heading cuts: by filling out.

The Best Plants to Use as Hedges

Plants suitable for hedging will be noted “hedging plants” or “topiaries” on their plant labels. Some popular varieties include:
- boxwood (Buxus)
- privet (Ligustrum)
- yew (Taxus)
- laurel (Laurus nobilis)
- barberry (Berberis)
- quince (Cydonia oblonga)
- Euonymous, holly (Ilex)
- juniper (Juniperus)
- thuja (Arborvitae)
- cedar (Cedrus)
- firethorn (Pyracantha)
- Viburnum
A grown-in shrub ready for pruning.

The same shrub after pruning.

Start Trimming Hedges Young

Plants that are trained from a very young age make for the best hedge.
- In the first two years, the plants will be cut back six to eight inches to encourage branching close to the core of the plant.
- In the third year, the hedge can be shaped. This will determine its structure as it grows to its final mature size.
If the hedge isn’t shaped until after the plants have grown to their full size, there won’t be enough branching at the base to create a full hedge.

Patience is key for a hedge. You need to cut them back significantly in the first two years.

When the hedge is at the size and shape that you like, the best way to maintain the look is to trim it frequently.

Shape your hedge to your desired height and shape, starting from initial planting.

When to Trim Hedges

As a general rule, prune the hedge before the new growth blocks the sun from the lower leaves. As the lower leaves lose sunlight, they begin to die off in favour of the new growth.

Some evergreens are quite quick-growing and need to be pruned every four to six weeks in the growing season, while others may grow a bit slower and only need to be pruned once. The best way to determine how often to prune is to watch the growth and trim it before it begins to shade the leaves below.

Disclosure: this post was originally sponsored by Fiskars who provided me with the set of pruning tools listed next.

How to Trim Hedges Easily with the Right Tools

Part of learning how to trim hedges is choosing the right tools to work with. Many people choose electric trimmers seemingly for convenience and ease, but they can actually damage your bushes.

Electric Trimmers vs. Hand Tools

Many people use electric trimmers to prune a hedge, but hand tools give you a cleaner cut and less damage to the branches.

An electric hedging tool will tear and rip the branches, leaving uneven cuts, while a hand tool leaves clean cuts that heal nicely and keep the plant healthy. Uneven cuts stress out the plant and are an open invitation for disease.

I prefer hand tools as they create cleaner cuts.

Prepare to Prune

One of the most important steps in learning how to trim hedges is the prep work. Before trimming your hedge, clear your workspace. Remember, it’s always best to wear safety goggles and gloves. Additionally, you may wish to drop a tarp below your hedge to catch your clippings in order to make cleanup easier.

It can be challenging to maintain a uniform shape when pruning a formal hedge. It helps to use guidelines as reference points on where to cut and how much.

You can achieve this by running a string line tied tautly between stakes along the bottom of the hedge to guide how much of the side to remove, and running a string line along the top to guide how much of the top to remove.

Clean and sharpen your tools before pruning. Keep a bucket of soapy water and a rag on hand to clean your tools in between plants if you are pruning multiple hedges. As cuts open up the wood to disease, it’s important to make sure you are keeping your tools clean.

Use a taut string line to help provide guidelines on where to prune.

Here are some of my favourite hedge trimming tools that help me keep my own shrubs in shape.

PowerGear2 Pruners

Use PowerGear2 Pruners to clear out any dead, dying, or diseased wood. The branches of a hedge are thick and woody, so you will want a powerful set of pruners to make quick work of the project. PowerGear2 Pruners give you more power than standard pruners, so you can cut thicker branches and use less effort.

PowerGear2 Pruners

POWER TOOTH® Softgrip® Folding Saw (7″)

Keep a POWER TOOTH® Softgrip® Folding Saw (7″) handy for cutting branches thicker than 3/4″ in diameter for PowerGear2 Pruners and 5/8” for standard pruners. The saw blades are incredibly sharp, so it’s best to keep them in the folded position until you need to make a cut. The good news is that it will cut the branch easily with those sharp teeth!

POWER TOOTH® Softgrip® Folding Saw

PowerGear2™ Hedge Shears (23″)

The PowerGear2™ Hedge Shears are smaller and lighter than standard hedge shears and yet more powerful. This makes them very easy to use, especially if you are pruning a large hedge.

Start pruning at the bottom of the hedge and work your way up so that cut branches and leaves at the top can freely fall to the ground.

Shear the hedge in shallow layers to make sure you don’t accidentally expose bald spots in some of the shrubs. Position the blades at a right angle to the branches to get the cleanest cut. Be sure not to twist the branches or approach them at an odd angle, as they won’t cut cleanly.

If you use a string line, ensure that your shears are consistently parallel with your shrub to stay on track. If you tend to go off line a little bit it’s not going to make a huge difference; the plant will grow and fill in the gaps. With practice, it will become second nature.

PowerGear2™ Hedge Shears

Power-Lever® Extendable Hedge Shears (25″–33″)

If you have a high hedge, then the Power-Lever® Extendable Hedge Shears will make the job a whole lot easier! Extendable handles make high, hard-to-reach, or awkward cuts easier.

If the hedge is short enough, you don’t have to climb up and down a ladder a bunch of times. If the hedge is taller, you still benefit from telescoping shears because you can use a shorter and more stable ladder. This is particularly helpful in small spaces.

Power-Lever® Extendable Hedge Shears

Power-Lever® Grass Shears

After pruning your hedge, go back with Power-Lever® Grass Shears and PowerGear2 Pruners to clean up any of the little bits that pop up after shearing is complete and to remove any leafless branches that protrude.

Grass shears are my go-to tool for finishing work. You can see how great they work on decorative topiaries here.

Power-Lever® Grass Shears

How to Repair Damaged Hedges

If your hedge has become overgrown, or is bare or dying back, it can be hard to repair. Evergreen plants will not generally fill back in; it is better to replace the individual plants. Deciduous hedges will come back over time if carefully pruned when dormant.

Either way, it’s best to keep up with the job throughout the season and maintain your hedge properly rather than to fix problems once they arise.

Prune damaged plants carefully when dormant.

More Tips for Pruning

Pruning is just about one of my favourite things to do out in the garden. I love to shape trees and bring out their natural beauty. There are many people who are quite afraid of pruning, and these guides are a great way to take the fear out of it!

A city girl who learned to garden and it changed everything. Author, artist, Master Gardener. Better living through plants.
[ad_2]

Stephanie Rose

Source link
August 28, 2025
Gorgeous Lavender Oatmeal Soap Cupcakes (That Anyone Can Make) – Garden Therapy

[ad_1]

This lavender oatmeal soap is soothing and calming for your skin. And any recipe that uses my garden-grown lavender rates especially high in my books! Using melt and pour, this recipe is super easy to make for beginner soap makers.

Lavender is my favourite ingredient, especially when it comes to natural beauty recipes, a slight addiction which can be seen in a simple search for lavender crafts. But along with being one of my favourite scents, dried lavender buds make this soap as beautiful to look at as it feels when you lather up.

To make this soap as a gift for holiday gift-giving or for someone special, make it in cupcake moulds and then wrap it in a cupcake wrapper.

Who wouldn’t want to get a lavender oatmeal soap cupcake as a gift? I can imagine even the burliest person out there would want to suds up with these!

This post will cover…

Dried lavender buds are used to decorate the soap.

How to Make Lavender Oatmeal Soap Cupcakes

Making these lavender oatmeal soap cupcakes can work with both cold process recipes and with melt and pour. If you choose to make cold process soap, please follow the recipes and the instructions in this article on how to make cold process soap. Cold-process soap is my go-to skincare bar, but it does take a long time and a lot of equipment to make.

Today, I’ll demonstrate a speedier soap-making project using melt and pour soap. Melt and pour soap kits are very easy to work with and simply require you to cut up the block into cubes, melt it, add your scents, and pour it into moulds.

Materials

I used melt and pour to create the soap pictured in this post.

Make It!

The melt and pour soap base should come as a block and have a list of the ingredients. You can choose from a number of different formulations, such as glycerin soap, milk soap, and fat and/or butter-based soaps.

I chose a natural soap base that had shea butter and oatmeal in it. If you would like to add oatmeal separately, then grind a few teaspoons of organic oats and add them to the melted mixture when you add the lavender buds.

Cut your soap into small chunks to make it easier to melt.

Use a sharp knife to cut your soap base into 1-inch cubes or smaller. Put the cubes in a heatproof container like a Pyrex measuring cup and put that in the microwave.

Stir your soap mixture every minute in the microwave until fully melted.

Melt the soap base on medium-high in the microwave for 3 to 4 minutes. Stop the microwave occasionally and check the soap base. It should be melting but not steaming. Take the soap base out of the microwave before it’s completely melted and use a metal spoon to stir it until it has no lumps.

Use dried, not fresh lavender buds.

Add one teaspoon of lavender essential oil and 1-2 tablespoons of dried lavender buds.

Pour your soap into 12 equal “cupcakes.”

Stir the ingredients well and pour the soap into silicone cupcake moulds. I chose a cupcake mould that was quite tall, but I only filled each cupcake section halfway so that the soap was a nice, manageable size when finished.

Use a sprig of lavender when wrapping your soap cupcakes for a little extra pizazz.

Add a few extra lavender buds on the top of the soap if you think it needs it, and allow the soap to dry undisturbed for at least an hour. When the soap is hard, you can unmold it and use it right away or wrap it up for gifts.

A simple parchment paper cupcake liner makes a great wrapper for these lavender oatmeal soap cupcakes. I like the natural look of parchment paper, but you can use any cupcake liner that you think would add to the presentation. Use a bit of garden twine to tie it up, and if you have a stem of lavender, add that as well.

Use a parchment paper cupcake liner and twine to wrap these soaps as a gift.

Lavender Soap FAQ

Should I use dried or fresh lavender buds for soap?

Use dried lavender buds only. Fresh lavender buds are more likely to spoil in the soap and may turn brown or mould.

What kind of lavender should I use?

English lavender is typically used for crafting since it holds its colour and scent well. Some of my favourite varieties for crafting include Purple Bouquet, Royal Purple, and Folgate lavender.

Won’t the lavender turn brown in the soap?

Yes, the lavender buds will eventually turn brown after a few months. To prevent this, you can add some purple dye to the soap so the brown discolouration doesn’t show as much. I like to use ratanjot as a natural deep purple colour, and if you add it as a swirl it will work with the brown and lavender buds. You can also try swapping the lavender buds for centaurea (cornflower) petals.

For more beautiful recipes inspired by the garden, pick up a copy of my Natural Beauty Recipe Book. It comes as an instant download that is filled with 5 chapters of over 40 natural beauty recipes for the whole family.

More Soap Recipes to Try

A city girl who learned to garden and it changed everything. Author, artist, Master Gardener. Better living through plants.

[ad_2]

Stephanie Rose

Source link

August 26, 2025
DIY Hopscotch Stepping Stones for the Garden
[ad_1]
If you have a little one who loves to explore the garden, these hopscotch stepping stones are the perfect playful addition. They’re easy to make for your first foray into DIY concrete, so let me show you how to make your own!

These hopscotch stepping stones aren’t the traditional children’s hopping game, nor are they typical for a garden pathway. I created these as part of the play garden design I have been developing since my son was born.

The idea behind the play garden is to create a space that is engaging for children while being aesthetically pleasing for grown-ups. I plan to show off the pieces that I’m working on along the way, starting with these hopscotch stepping stones.

Making numbered hopscotch stepping stones is fairly simple and can be done in one afternoon. Let me show you how!

This post will cover…

I made the numbers out of small pebbles and stones.

How to Make Hopscotch Stepping Stones

Make sure to choose a sunny day to work on this project. Keep in mind that the concrete will require 24 hours to fully harden, so make sure to account for this time in your plans.

Materials

(Makes 10 stepping stones numbered 1-9 and a dragonfly)

Most of these materials you can easily get at your local hardware store.

Make It!

First of all, let’s talk safety. Concrete is toxic to skin and can be corrosive. No matter how ‘tough’ you are, just protect your hands with gloves. I know they aren’t fun to work with, but stay healthy, folks. Also, please use safety gear to protect your eyes and ears when using power tools. You only get four of them!

Cut the concrete form into 10 2-inch-thick moulds by using a handsaw or a handheld circular saw. Use a sheet of paper wrapped around the tube as a guide and carefully cut the first ring off the tube. Cut it open by using a box cutter to slice through the ring’s width. Place the cut ring on the tube to use as a guide for all the remaining cuts.

Tape the ring together and place it a fraction more than two inches from the end if you are using a handsaw, or place it where the guide runs if you are using a handheld circular saw.

Here’s a better look at how to cut the concrete moulds.

Now, plan how to make the numbers. There are a few ways of doing this:
1. Lay out the stones first so you can simply transfer them to the concrete when ready, or
2. Get a bunch of house numbers to use as a guide. You will make an imprint of the house number and use that to set the stones in place.
You may be able to find these at the dollar store!

Set the rings on a plastic drop cloth and mix the standard concrete according to the instructions on the package. Fill each of the moulds ¾-full of concrete and use the trowel to smooth it out. Take care to remove any air bubbles. This base layer gives the stepping stones strength.

Follow the mixing instructions on the concrete package.

Mix the topping or repair concrete and add it to the top of each stepping stone. This layer gives the stepping stones a smooth, refined top.

Save the top 1/4 of the mould for the topping/repair concrete for a smooth finish.

Working quickly before the concrete hardens, it’s time to add the stones. If you have two people working together, one can be pouring concrete and smoothing while the other sets the stones in.

We used house numbers as a guide, but you can freehand it, use a foam number, or even just draw an outline with a stick. Once you have your method, start adding stones one by one, fitting them like a puzzle until you get your 1-9 completed.

Get creative! You can see how I also made a dragonfly stepping stone out of the pebbles.

Gently push a bit of concrete around the stones with your fingertips just to set them in place. If any do fall out, you can always glue them back in. I’m happy to report that not one of our stones fell out! That surprised me in a very good way.

Kiddo loves the hopscotch stepping stones!

Cover the stepping stones with a plastic drop cloth and let them dry for 24 hours. The next day, remove the mould by cutting it and set the stones in an airy place for a week to cure before moving them to the garden or lawn.

I set the hopscotch stepping stones through the garden surrounded by woolly thyme. I used 56 plants, so it should be a fuzzy, fragrant carpet surrounding the hopscotch in no time!

More Ideas for a Play Garden

A city girl who learned to garden and it changed everything. Author, artist, Master Gardener. Better living through plants.
[ad_2]

Stephanie Rose

Source link
August 25, 2025
Garlic Health Benefits: Boost Immunity & Heart Health – Garden Therapy

[ad_1]

Garlic is a great reminder that we eat herbs not just for flavour, but for medicine. Pungent in smell and useful in the garden, there are many garlic health benefits for us as well. Here’s how garlic can help you, and a few recipes to harness that pungent power.

When we think of garlic, the word herb doesn’t usually come to mind. It’s somewhere between a vegetable and a spice, something that gives flavour to our food.

In reality, garlic is known in the herbal world as a very powerful antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, and antifungal.

Just think about how we use it in the garden. We use it to repel pests with its pungent aroma, as its strong smell helps to mask the appeal of surrounding plants.

And when you go out and plant the bulbs or harvest the garlic scapes, your hands can quickly smell like garlic for the rest of the day.

This strong aroma works hard in our body as well, as the sulphuric compounds provide a range of health benefits. It’s as powerful for us as it is out in the garden.

Let me show you!

Hardneck, softneck…all garlic has health benefits.

History of Garlic

There are around 1,000 species in the Allium genus, including cultivated garlic, Allium sativum. Originally native to central Asia, it has quickly been used all over the world as an all-around herb.

Garlic has been used medicinally for over 7,000 years, with traces of the plant found in paleolithic caves. Egyptians and Greeks both used it to strengthen the work capacity of their workers and slaves, helping to reduce fatigue.

Of course, we all know it as the thing vampires hate most. And it might not just be the garlic breath! As a flower essence, garlic is known for providing vitality and resistance to adverse energy. Garlic gets rid of that bad juju, vampires included.

I won’t go into the details about how to grow garlic in this post, but you can find all my tips and tricks, including timing, in my garlic growing guide.

Garlic scapes can also be eaten. I make them into a pesto!

Garlic Health Benefits

Garlic is one of the most well-researched medicinal herbs, if its popularity in modern-day cooking isn’t an indicator enough. It’s known to have great effects on the cardiovascular, digestive, and respiratory systems, as well as the liver. Most of that comes from the allicin constituent, the sought-after part of garlic.

Cardiovascular Benefits

The aromatic compounds of garlic can dilate blood vessels, helping to boost circulation and prevent clotting. It’s known for reducing blood pressure, so those with high blood pressure can benefit from including garlic as a daily part of their diet. It’s also known to prevent atherosclerosis, the hardening of arteries.

Digestive Aid

If you’ve had a garlic-heavy meal, you may have noticed how it gets your guts moving and grooving. Garlic brings heat and vitality to the digestive system. It’s incredibly nutritious, providing manganese, selenium, fibre, and Vitamin C and B6, as well as antioxidants.

Garlic works as an ally in fighting the bacterium H. pylori alongside antibiotics, helping to increase antibiotic treatment by over 30%. It’s also been traditionally used to kill worm parasites.

Pickled garlic is a great way to enjoy garlic health benefits. Eat a clove daily!

Liver Benefits

Daily consumption of garlic is proven to lower serum cholesterol levels, and maybe even triglyceride levels. It can even promote HDL, AKA good cholesterol, improving overall liver function.

And if the liver is working well, you can also expect a more stable blood sugar level.

Cold and Flu Aid

Garlic is often used at the beginning stages of a cold or flu to help prevent it from developing worse. It’s known to have a whopping 18 antiviral and antibacterial substances. When used as an immune stimulant, it can help to fight viruses, bacteria, yeast, worms, and fungi.

Garlic is used as an expectorant, removing phlegm. The volatile oils in garlic are excreted through the lungs, aiding with respiratory infections.

Use garlic when you first feel the inkling of a cold or have been around someone who is sick.

How to Use Garlic Medicinally

Like any herb, there are periods of my life where I don’t eat garlic because my immune system is already reactive. I have an autoimmune disorder, so when I stick garlic in there, I can react to it and notice some stomach issues.

In reality, I don’t need garlic as much as other people may. Other times, when I’m feeling run down and in need of some nourishment and strength, I will reach for it. It’s such a powerful herb that I take it gently!

Preparing Garlic

In nature, garlic will release its highly sought-after sulphur compounds and allicin when it is disturbed by wildlife. To release it in your kitchen, you must chop or crush the garlic.

Then, it’s important to let it oxidize for 3-5 minutes before you ingest it. The oxygen helps to activate the compounds.

It’s important to note that heat will stop the process.

Remove skin and crush or chop garlic to get the proper health benefits of garlic.

Fire Cider

Popularized by herbalist Rosemary Gladstar, fire cider has become a tonic that many people rely on daily during the cold and flu season. The tonic is an infused preparation of apple cider vinegar, honey, garlic, onion, ginger, and more. It works as a decongesting tonic as well as a digestion aid.

Find Rosemary’s recipe for fire cider here.

Fermented Garlic Honey

Garlic honey is one of my favourite ways to harness the power of garlic. I’ve made it for a few years when I thought I needed a boost, and it tastes so delicious. It’s a great staple to have on hand during the winter months.

Like the fire cider, fermented garlic honey works as an immune booster. You can also use it in your cooking, because it’s that tasty, as a sauce or marinade.

Here is a recipe and instructions on how to make fermented honey garlic from Colleen over at Grow Forage Cook Ferment.

All you need is honey and garlic for this recipe!

FAQ About Medicinal Uses of Garlic

What is the 10-minute garlic rule?

This refers to how long you’re supposed to let garlic sit after you chop or crush it to ingest it. In reality, you only need about 3-5 minutes to allow the garlic to oxidize and form the compounds that provide the health benefits.

Who shouldn’t use garlic?

Avoid using garlic if you’re on blood thinners or have a bleeding disorder. It should also be avoided two weeks before and after surgery.

It’s also an immune booster, so those with autoimmune disorders should be cautious about when they choose to ingest garlic.

Always ask your doctor before using any herbs for their medicinal purposes.

What are the side effects of garlic?

Besides bad breath? Garlic can affect the ability to clot blood, since it works to open blood vessels. It’s also a warming food, so it can irritate the digestive system in high doses, causing gas and nausea.

More Garlic Tips and Uses

A city girl who learned to garden and it changed everything. Author, artist, Master Gardener. Better living through plants.

[ad_2]

Stephanie Rose

Source link

August 20, 2025
Fall Gardening Make Simple: Quick Tips for Busy Gardeners

[ad_1]

Let’s not Konmari our backyards. It doesn’t need to be a beautifully curated and perfect space before we settle in for the winter. No, let’s make fall gardening the relaxing activity it’s supposed to be! Here’s how to make your fall garden tasks easier to tackle when you’re feeling overwhelmed.

If you were to pop into my home, you’d see the graveyard of half-completed to-do lists. A post-it note here, a scribbled napkin there, and perhaps even the remnants of a half-finished task.

Some have most things crossed off, some just a couple. I’m busy, I’m overwhelmed, and that’s okay.

It happens to us all, and having a long list of to-dos can get very overwhelming very quickly.

When it comes to the fall garden, I always make a checklist (like this one here). There’s a lot of work that goes into putting the garden to rest while still trying to squeeze out as much of the remaining sun and warmth as possible.

Us gardeners know that spring and fall are truly the busiest gardening months, not the summer when the plants are busy doing their own thing.

While checklists and to-do lists are very helpful for some, including my past self, I’m trying a different approach this year, and I wanted to share it with you.

This post will cover…

Planting bulbs with a power planter is always something I do in the fall.

Making Fall Gardening Tasks Attainable

Rather than make a big list of things you need to do in the garden and set out a day or even a week to do them, give yourself a little grace.

My philosophy to gardening has always been to do what you can, and don’t fuss about it. Gardening should never be a stressful activity where you’re running ahead with a rake in one hand trying to get the leaves and a hose in the other spraying down your gardening pots.

You’ve got all the time in the world!

Start with five minutes a day, or ten minutes a day, or even half an hour twice a week. Whatever time you think you have to dedicate before getting stressed about everything else you need to do in your life should be the starting point.

Set the minimum time you want to spend in the garden and make it a daily ritual. Maybe skipping a rainy day or two (I won’t tell, I promise).

For instance, your first “task” might be to deal with the compost bin. On the first day, you might turn your compost and see if it’s ready. On the third day, you could empty it and put a layer down on your gardening bed. The fourth day, you could give your compost bin a rinse, and voila! You’re done.

Things begin to slow down in the fall from the busyness of summer, so you should, too!

Go With the Momentum

Getting out in the garden for just five minutes a day is a good start. Often, starting is the hardest part. But once you’ve started, you may find yourself with more momentum than you initially thought.

This is why I always tell Kiddo that the very first thing to put on a to-do list is “make a list.” Because you instantly get to check it off, and you feel so good. That rush of dopamine propels you into doing the next thing.

Prioritize Your Tasks

Some tasks you must do, like putting away your outdoor furniture and cleaning out your water feature, while some tasks you could get away with not doing, like dividing perennials or recycling plant pots.

Make sure to get to those must-dos first so you know that if you run out of time and energy for the others, it’s not the end of the world.

Work From Front to Back

If you look out at your garden and all you see are tasks and too much to do, you might need a different approach. In this case, I like to work from the back of my garden to the front, the left to the right, or vice versa. Just start with one spot and slowly work your way over until the garden is more manageable.

Enjoy your fall bloomers, like echinacea, while you’re at it.

Fall Gardening Tasks to Consider

You can definitely still make a general list, or break up larger tasks into smaller ones. However you want to do it, you’re welcome to do it.

This year, we’re coming from a place of forgiveness and peacefulness. There’s no pressure to make your yard look perfect and to get everything done before the first frost touches ground.

Below are some tasks I usually like to complete in the garden. Use them as inspiration for making your own list, but remember, you only do what you can. Your garden will be okay, regardless!

Plastic Nursery Pots

If you’re like me, you might have a small mountain of plastic nursery pots hiding away somewhere in your garden.

If they’re collected cobwebs and standing water and are overall icky and not something you want to even touch, it’s time to get rid of them. Recycle them the next garbage day in your city allows them.

More on recycling plant pots in this post.

Yes, it’s nice to keep a few for seed starting. But recycle what you don’t need!

Look for the recycling symbol on the bottom of your plastic nursery pots.

Clean Your Pots

For all those pots you’ve decided to keep, it’s time to give them a clean. You can give them a quick clean with the garden hose, or wash them with dish soap and a sponge for a more thorough clean (I like to do this with my terracotta).

Stack them neatly and safely, somewhere where they’re ideally covered and protected from nesting animals and the cold from potentially cracking them.

Dirty pots can have pests, bacteria, fungus, and minerals that could harm plants you plan to pot in them next year.

Container Plants

If you have plants that will be staying in their containers for the winter, AKA your perennials, you’ll want to give them some TLC. Everyone needs a helping hand to get through the winter, let’s be real!

Drain any water you might have from self-watering pots. But keep any tender plants undercover or tuck them away in the garage.

I also like to still get my creative itch out in the fall, and containers are a great way to do this. You can decorate hardy planters with fall annuals and some evergreens for some seasonal and festive gardening.

Many garden centres will have plenty of fall annuals for sale to spruce up your summer planters.

Discard Old Seeds and Bulbs

I know you look at that crusty, dusty bag of bulbs you forgot to plant and think, “Maybe I can still get them in the ground next year.”

It’s time to let go. Ditch the guilt, and compost those old bulbs and get rid of those seeds. Try again next year with some new summer bulbs or plant some spring bulbs right now!

You can always try and sow some seeds now and see what happens. You never know, you could get some beautiful flowers next spring. Or not. But it doesn’t really matter!

Clean Out the Garden Shed

I bet you there are either dried-up grass clippings, little pieces of caked mud, mouse droppings, or cobwebs hanging out in your garden shed.

Give the floor a quick sweep. If you’re feeling up to it, organize and purge as necessary.

My she-shed set-up at my old house.

Soil Prep

Your garden beds are easy peasy. I leave all the seed heads, dead foliage, and dying plants to return to the earth. Don’t worry about making everything look pristine.

The only thing I do with my garden beds is add a layer of compost. I then cover it with leaves. I’m a firm believer of leave the leaves, instead leaving them to be chopped up in the lawn mower or pushed into the gardening beds to become natural mulch and feed the soil.

Prepare Your Water Features for Winter

If you have water features in your garden, such as a pond or fountain, you will want to prepare them for winter. Otherwise, they might break or be damaged the following spring.

Follow these instructions on what to do with your water features.

Clean Your Garden Tools

Now, I know I’m supposed to sanitize my pruners whenever I clip something new, but that doesn’t always happen. And there maybe a little rust on them too. Just maybe.

The end of the summer is a good time to go through your gardening tools and give them a good clean. I list out my tool care in this post if you want to check it out.

You’ll want to take the pruners apart to fully clean and sanitize them.

Move Furniture Undercover

Outdoor furniture goes through A LOT, and the winter certainly isn’t its friend. Most outdoor furniture has such a short lifespan (it’s actually quite a big pet peeve of mine), and we want to prolong its life as long as possible by tucking it away for the winter.

Before storing it for the winter, I like to make repairs to any broken pieces, wash any fabrics, and sand and stain wood (which can be a big project).

Toss what can go in the washing machine, hand wiping down all the rest with a natural cleaner.

Divide Perennials

If you’re taking a look at your garden and things are starting to look a little overgrown, it might be time to divide some of your perennials. And fall is the perfect time to do so!

Generally, you need to divide your perennials every three to five years. I have a whole post dedicated to teaching you how to divide perennials.

Plant Shrubs and Trees

What if I told you that fall is the perfect time to make design changes to the garden? Yes, I’m giving you permission to go to the garden centre and buy some new plants. And better yet, all the plants are on discount.

I have some design suggestions you can follow in this post. You want to get the perennials in the ground ideally six weeks before the first big frost to give the plants time to settle in before the winter.

Trim Hedges

I’ve already started to notice the fallen soldiers of hedge trimmings when I go for a walk in my neighbourhood. Fall is also a great time to trim your hedges. This will give them the perfect shape for all winter.

Get ready to fill your compost bin with all your trimmings.

Buy New Garden Items

I like to look on Facebook Marketplace or in free groups for second-hand items I might need, whether that’s replacing some broken tools or something that’s been on the wishlist for a while.

A lot of people don’t want to store their gardening materials for the winter, so they will give away or inexpensively sell their outdoor furniture, water features, pots, etc.

And you can be there to scoop them up!

Clean anything you get secondhand to avoid accidentally transmitting anything to your garden.

Harvest Your Food

You’ve spent all spring and summer carefully tending to your veggies, berries, herbs, and fruits, so don’t let them go to waste. See if you can dedicate a day to storing your food. This can include canning, drying, or preserving them.

If I’m strapped for time, I like to freeze what I can and save it for a day when I’m not so busy and can do something with it.

You can always share your bountiful harvest with friends, family, and neighbours.

I hope this got the juices flowing. So make a fall gardening list…or don’t! Just try to enjoy your time, because even though the days may be getting shorter ever so slowly, it’s a great time to still be out enjoying the garden.

More Fall Gardening Tips

[ad_2]

Stephanie Rose

Source link

September 4, 2024
Seeds to Plant in the Fall for Next Season’s Blooms – Garden Therapy
[ad_1]
Before we can say goodbye to the garden for the year, it’s time to plan for spring. Whether you experience a sunny winter or a snow-covered one, many seeds don’t mind waiting for winter to pass before making an appearance. Scatter these seeds to plant in the fall for a stunning display of blooms next year.

It may feel unnatural to plant seeds in the fall. After all, we’re preparing to put the garden to rest and hoping for a sleepy winter. However, many annuals and perennials also enjoy this cold spell to nestle in the ground for the winter and get a head start next spring.

Just like planting spring bulbs, you can find seeds to plant in the fall to get some extra spring (or summer) blooms.

This list covers some flowers to plant in the fall for both warm and cold climates. If you’ve still got the time and energy to do some more gardening, your spring self will forever be grateful!

Today, I’ll be covering…

Nasturtium can be planted in the fall for warmer climates.

When Should You Plant Fall Seeds

Just like nature, many plants naturally shed their seeds for the fall, survive throughout the winter, and sprout come spring.

The question I always get about plants is when can I plant them? Usually, the answer is vague, like late fall. The reality is that it’s going to be different depending on where you live!

Your best bet is to track frost dates regionally (a local gardening club may be able to help you with that). For fall planting in cold climates, you want to wait until after a killing frost has happened. AKA, nothing has grown since the summer season.

If you plant them too early, they may sprout. We want them to hibernate for the winter and emerge come spring. If you notice fall seedlings outside, mulch over them. This will try to prevent them from freezing.

In warm climates, plant your seeds right before the rainy season begins. Depending on where you live, this typically falls between late fall or early winter (check dates with your local gardening club!).

Plant your poppy seeds in the fall!

How to Plant Fall Seeds

When planting seeds, your best bet is to always read the label. You may notice that some seeds ask you to cold stratify. This is when seeds require a period of extreme cold in order to sprout. All thanks to a thick coating, their outer shell prevents them from breaking and sprouting early.

You can force cold stratification by using your fridge as it mimics winter conditions. But if it asks for cold stratification, this probably means it can be planted in the fall and naturally get its cold fill during the winter.

To plant your seeds, prepare the bed as you normally would any time of the year. Clear all debris and add in a layer of organic compost to give the seeds their best start next spring. Follow the seed packet for light and soil requirements.

Warm Climate Seeds to Plant in the Fall

For these flowers to plant in fall, no freezing is required. This list is ideal for those living in zones 9-11.
1. Morning Glory Ipomoea tricolor — zones 10-11
2. Honeywort Cerinthe — zones 9-10
3. Calendula Calendula — zones 9-11
4. Cosmos — zones 9-10
5. Spider Flower Cleome hassleriana — zones 10-11
6. Standing Cypress Imopsis rubra — zones 6-10
7. Virgina Stocks Mattiola martima — zones 9-11
8. Nasturtium Tropaeolum — zones 7-10
9. Bells of Ireland Moluccella laevis — zones 2-11
10. Sweet Peas Lathyrus odoratus — zones 2-11
11. Love-In-A-Mist Nigella damascene — zones 2-11
12. Purple Chinese Houses Collinsia heterophylla — zones 2-11
13. Baby Blue Eyes Nemophila menziesii — zones 2-11
Calendula often self seeds, and comes up in the spring all on its own!

Cool Climate Seeds to Plant in the Fall

This list covers both annuals and perennials to plant in the fall. These seeds either require cold stratification in order to bloom the following spring or they don’t mind the cold. Some will still grow in warmer zones!
1. Bells of Ireland Moluccella laevis — zones 2-11
2. Cornflower Centaurea cyanus— zones 3-8
3. Blanket Flower Gaillardia — zones 3-10
4. Poppy Papaveraceae — zones 3-8
5. Coneflower Echinacea — zones 3-9
6. Columbine Aquilegea — zones 3-9
7. Sweet Peas Lathyrus odoratus — zones 2-11
8. False Queen Anne’s Lace Ammi majus — zones 3-9
9. Foxglove Digitalis — zones 4-8
10. Sea Holly Eryngium — zones 4-9
11. Tickseed Coreopsis tinctoria — zones 3-9
12. Snapdragon Antirrhinum — zones 8-9
13. Hollyhock Alcea — zones 3-8
14. Black-Eyed Susan Rudbeckia — zones 3-9
15. Forget-Me-Not Myosotis — zones 3-8
16. Penstemon Penestemon — zones 3-8
17. Sweet William Dianthus — zones 3-9
18. Ashy Sunflower Helianthus mollis — zones 4-9 (and other perennial sunflowers)
19. Pansy Viola — zones 5-10
20. Love-In-A-Mist Nigella damascene — zones 2-11
21. Delphinium — zones 3-8
22. Basket of Gold Alyssum Aurinia saxatilis — zones 3-7
23. Chinese Forget-Me-Not Cynoglossum amabile — zones 6-9
24. Common Woolly Sunflower Eriophyllum lanatum —zones 5-8
25. Lunaria Lunaria annua — zones 5-9
26. Bigleaf Lupin Lupinus polyphyllus — zones 3-6
27. Veronica Veronica spicata — zones 4-8
28. Purple Chinese Houses Collinsia heterophylla — zones 2-11
29. Globe Gilia Gilia capitata — zones 7-10
30. Baby’s Breath Gypsophila elegans — zones 3-10
31. Baby Blue Eyes Nemophila menziesii — zones 2-11
Vegetables to Plant in The Fall

Not interested in flowers? Here’s a little bonus of vegetables you can plant in the fall and enjoy next spring and summer. You might as well get the work in now, right!?

Onions, Garlic, and Shallots

All part of the allium family, onions, garlic, and shallots are best planted in the fall due to their long growing season. It isn’t until next summer that you will be able to reap the rewards of your fall planting.

Turnips, Carrots, Radishes, and Beets

These root vegetables don’t mind hanging out in the cold. You may see minimal growth, but they will certainly get a head start come spring. You may even notice a sweeter taste.

Lettuce and Leafy Greens

Did you know you can have fresh greens year-round? By using a cold frame or mini-greenhouse, you can grow lettuce outside throughout the winter.

Broccoli and Cauliflower

In mid to warm climates, you can grow both broccoli and cauliflower to harvest next spring.

Peas

This is another one for an early spring harvest! Peas can also be grown in mild climates during the colder months. Make sure to build a trellis for them to climb on.

FAQ About Fall Planting

Do all plants reseed naturally in the fall?

It’s true that many flowers and plants will go to seed in the fall if left on the plant. However, it doesn’t necessarily mean that they’ll naturalize in your climate. The conditions for summer might be favourable enough to grow the plants, but the fall, winter, or spring might be too cold or wet or even not cold enough!

Follow the path of nature. Some plants may naturalize in your area all on their own. When in doubt, use the instructions that come on the seed package.

What is the easiest plant to grow in the fall?

Just because the weather is cooling down, it doesn’t mean you can’t grow things still. You can actually continue to grow some vegetables that are speedy growers, such as radishes, lettuce, spinach, and turnips. Find a full list of those vegetables here.

I also like to plant bulbs in the fall for the spring, and add in perennials since they’re on sale and can grow a root system in the fall before hibernating for the winter.

What month is the best to plant in fall?

You should always track your suggested last frost date (try this tool). Most plants you want in the ground before it freezes so they have some time to get settled in before the cold hits.

For seeds that you plant in the fall, you actually want to wait until after the frost, as you don’t want the seeds to sprout until the spring. Plant normally, clearing the area and covering it with a layer of soil (but read the seed packet instructions).

When in doubt, the end of October to early November is usually the best time for planting for most places.

Plant tickseed seeds in the fall.

More Fall Gardening Tips and Tricks
[ad_2]

Stephanie Rose

Source link
August 28, 2024
How to Save Seeds & Improve Your Vegetable Garden – Garden Therapy

[ad_1]

This time of year, we begin to say goodbye to this year’s vegetable garden and plan for next year’s. What better way to do both of these things than by collecting and preserving seeds to plant in the spring? Saving seeds from your very best vegetables will give you the very best seeds, so it’s worth it to take a little time and learn how to save seeds the right way.

Different seeds have different needs when it comes to collecting them for the following year. Some can simply be transferred straight from plant to seed packet, while others need a bit more attention in the form of drying or fermenting.

In this guide, I’m going to show you three different methods on how to save seeds, and which method to use for some of the most popular vegetables.

While purchasing seeds each year is a relatively economical method for growing a garden, seed saving is still an important practice. When you save seeds from your best-growing plants, you already know that they can thrive in your garden!

Year after year, your crop will get better and stronger as you continue to save only the best seeds your garden has to offer. The practice of seed saving is also a traditional process. For many, growing seeds passed down from older generations honours their history.

This guide will cover…

Don’t forget to save some flower seeds too!

Seed Saving Supplies

First, you’ll need a supply of seed envelopes for keeping your seeds stored and labelled. We’ve got you covered with lots of free printable seed packets here:

You’ll also need a tool for snipping seed pods in the garden. A small pair of scissors, such as embroidery scissors, is perfect for the job. You will also want a basket or paper bag for collecting pods out in the garden before you transfer them to their envelopes.

For drying and fermenting seeds, you will need paper towel and Mason jars.

Print these seed envelopes at home for easy and cute packaging.

How to Save Seeds Method 1: Mature in the Garden

Some vegetable seeds, such as the ones listed below, will germinate and grow better if they are allowed to mature and ripen right on the plant. When they are ready, simply collect them and store them in an envelope for next year.

For this method, choose to harvest seeds on a dry day in the early afternoon when seeds are retaining the least amount of water.

How to Save Lettuce and Cabbage Seeds

When your lettuce or cabbage plant begins to flower, place a plastic bag over it. When the seeds are ready, they will drop naturally and be contained in the bag, ready for you to collect and store. How convenient! If you want to try something new for your lettuce garden, try some of these unusual leafy greens instead.

How to Save Pea and Bean Seeds

If pods are green, that means the seeds are still ripening and receiving nutrients from the pods. Be patient and wait until the pods are completely brown before you harvest them. Spread peas and beans out on a clean, dry surface and leave them to dry for a week or so before storing.

You can tell whether or not the seeds are dry enough to be stored by biting one. If it is hard when you bite down on it, it is ready to be packed into a seed envelope and stored for the season. Come planting, make your own pea trellis to support your newly saved seeds.

Once harvested, let your pea and bean seeds dry for a week before storing.

Seed Saving Method 2: Ferment

Some seeds need to be fermented for them to germinate properly. To induce fermentation, soak seeds in water for a few days, then collect, dry, and store them.

How to Save Cucumber Seeds

Wait until the cucumber is a bit overripe and its flesh has turned somewhat yellow in colour, then cut it in half lengthwise and scoop out the seeds with a spoon.

Drop the seeds into a Mason jar half-filled with water. Cover and let sit for three or four days. The best seeds will sink to the bottom of the jar. Collect those seeds and spread them out to dry on a paper towel. Once they are completely dry, store them in the refrigerator.

Store cucumber seeds in the refrigerator.

How to Save Melon Seeds

Cut a ripe melon in half and scoop out the seeds. Rinse them gently under warm water to remove excess fruit. Put the seeds in a covered Mason jar half-filled with water and let sit for two to four days.

As with cucumbers, the best melon seeds will sink to the bottom, while the ones you don’t want will continue to float. Dry the sunken seeds on a paper towel and store them in a seed envelope until you are ready to plant them.

How to Save Tomato Seeds

Fermenting tomato seeds requires a few more steps, but it is SO worth it! For tomato seeds, you want just enough water to cover the seeds and surrounding tomato guts.

Instead of using the Mason jar lid, use the Mason jar ring to screw on and hold a paper towel in place. After a few days of sitting in their Mason jar, you should have a full cover of mould on the seeds. Yes, this is a good sign!

Then your seeds are ready to be strained and dried. See detailed instructions in this post on how to save heirloom tomato seeds.

Mould is a good sign when it comes to fermenting tomato seeds.

How to Save Cucamelon Seeds

Similar to tomatoes, you can ferment cucamelons using the same method. Their seeds will come back true to seed each year (the same as the original plant).

To learn more about this delightful mini fruit, check out my cucamelon growing guide.

Follow the same steps as a tomato to save cucamelon seeds.

Seed Saving Method 3: Scoop Out and Dry

The scoop-out and dry seed saving method involves simply scooping seeds out from the inside of veggies and laying them out to dry.

How to Save Pumpkin Seeds

When squash or pumpkins have developed a hard outer shell, they are ready to be harvested for seed saving. Cut the squash or pumpkin in half, scoop out the seeds and rinse them under warm water.

Then, pat them dry and spread them out on a clean, dry surface. Wait until the pumpkin seeds are completely dry before packaging them up for storage.

Different varieties of squash and pumpkin can cross-pollinate with each other, so the seeds you save might produce something that is not quite the same as the squash you collected the seeds from. This can be a really fun surprise!

Save the seeds from your pumpkin carving to plant in your garden next year.

How to Save Pepper Seeds

Most peppers will turn a dark red colour when they reach full maturity. At this point, harvest them and slice them in half.

Use your fingers to remove the seeds and spread them around on a paper towel placed away from direct sunlight…then make sure to wash your hands!

Leave the seeds to dry like this for one or two weeks, then store in an airtight container. When you’re ready to plant them, be sure to check out my growing guide for peppers, sweet and spicy!

Make sure to wash your hands after saving pepper seeds.

How to Save Strawberry Seeds

Though technically not a vegetable, strawberry seeds are easy to save using a smear and dry method. Rather than scooping the seeds, you will want to smoosh them on your paper towel. Then, let them dry somewhere warm.

Once dry, you can fold up the paper and stick it in an envelope for safekeeping. In the spring, scrape the seeds into soil and watch your strawberries grow.

Personally, I love to grow alpine strawberries and the process is near identical. Find more detailed instructions on this post on how I save my alpine strawberry seeds.

Since strawberry seeds are so tiny, keep them directly on the paper towel in storage so you don’t lose them.

FAQ About Saving Vegetable Seeds

How can I save kale and radish seeds?

Let these seeds mature directly on the plant. Harvest pods when they feel dry. To open the pods, rub them gently between your palms.

Is it illegal to save seeds?

When it comes to seed saving, many gardeners do not have to worry about the legalities. Most GMO and hybrid seeds are under a patent, meaning that farmers and other commercial growers can only grow these if they sign a contract. This contract states that they can’t save the seeds for the following year, only buying the rights to grow the purchased seeds.

However, if you are sticking to seed saving for your garden or to share with loved ones and neighbours through a seed library, you should be just fine. Heirloom seeds are well worth saving. No profit, no problem! For more on the difference between heirloom, GMO, and hybrid seeds, visit this post.

Can old seeds still grow?

Have you ever planted some old seeds only to find that they never germinate? Sometimes, this can put you weeks behind your growing schedule before you notice. All seeds should be stored in a cool, dark, and dry place to make sure they last as long as possible. Always write the date you saved/stored them.

When stored right, all seeds should last a year. Depending on the plant, they can be good for as long as 2-5 years. For example, tomatoes last around 5 years, while peas and beans are only good for 2. Research your specific vegetable seed upon saving, and feel free to add a best-before-date when storing. This way you know what to plant come spring and never let any of your seeds go bad before planting.

If you’re ever unsure about the viability of your old seeds, you can easily perform the germination test described in this post.

More Posts About Seeds

Want to save other seeds, too? Click to learn all about saving flower seeds.

Now that you’ve saved all those seeds get ready to plant them next year!

[ad_2]

Stephanie Rose

Source link

August 27, 2024
Fresh Herb Finishing Salt Recipe for Cooking – Garden Therapy
[ad_1]
An herbal finishing salt is a flavourful condiment and a creative way to preserve the freshness of the herb garden for use throughout the year. Herb finishing salt can be used to flavour fresh vegetables from the garden or garnish your other culinary creations. It is easy to make and packed with aromatherapy, making the preparation process a therapeutic journey in itself.

Ever since I planted a culinary kitchen garden years ago, I’ve been loaded with herbs. They’ve become a staple in my garden and one of the first things I added to the garden in my new house.

I have giant rosemary, sage, oregano, and mint plants that refuse to be contained. I’m harvesting, preparing, and giving away a LOT of herbs to the point where my neighbours are locking their doors and closing the blinds when they see me coming with an armful of greenery!

I’m kidding, of course.

They don’t seem to mind herb deliveries all that much. How could they? Fresh herbs smell fabulous and have such a large effect on health and well-being.

And with so many herbs growing in the garden, a finishing salt is a great way to preserve their flavour and bring it to meals throughout the year.

Herb finishing salt makes for a great and easy-to-create garden gift.

Rosemary Lime Herb Finishing Salt

I made these little jars of rosemary lime herb finishing salt for a Burpee Home Gardens dinner event that I hosted years ago. Thankfully, I had a ton of fresh rosemary because I had to make 25 jars of herb salt. Since then, I make them every time my rosemary bush is ready to harvest.

I’ve pared the recipe down to 10 jars to make it a bit more manageable here, but you can scale it up or down depending on how many jars you want to make in the end.

This recipe is for rosemary and lime flavour, but you can easily customize it with other herbs. Also try lemon instead of lime if you wish!

Ingredients

See the recipe card below for exact measurements.

Jump to Recipe
- Coarse sea salt
- Fresh rosemary leaves
- Large limes
Herb finishing salt is great for topping meat and vegetables in cooking.

Make It!

Harvest fresh herbs from the garden and use them for this recipe within a week. Dried herbs don’t have the essential oils and aroma that make this salt something special.

Yes, you want fresh herbs for this recipe!

Remove the leaves from the stems of the rosemary. The stems are too woody; you just want the tender green leaves for this recipe.

To remove the leaves, pinch the stem at the top with your fingers and hold the top of the sprig of rosemary with your other hand. Pull down on the branch to remove the leaves.

Note: you want four cups of the leaves, not the leaves and the stems.

Only use the rosemary leaves, discarding the woody rosemary stem.

Add the leaves to a powerful food processor or Vitamix blender, or hand cut the herbs finely. I used the dry attachment of my Vitamix and it made quick work of chopping up the rosemary leaves. I went from almost a full blender of leaves to about two cups of chopped-up leaves in seconds.

Set aside the herbs in a bowl.

You want your herbs to be quite fine for this recipe.

Add the coarse salt to the blender/food processor and pulse to grind up the salt to your desired texture. I like to have a few larger grains of salt in the mix, but at least 80% of it is fine.

Mix the leaves with the salt in a large bowl. Add the zest of four limes and stir.

Leave the salt, lime, and rosemary to infuse for another week. Leave the lid open to allow the moisture from the limes and the herbs to evaporate.

After a week, pack up the herb finishing salt in small terrine-lidded jars.

The tiny scoop is a must-have when gifting these herb finishing salts.

Serve herb finishing salt with a tiny wooden pinch spoon because a) it’s cute and b) it keeps fingers out of the salt.

I bought the adorable 1″ wood scoops for $2 each at The Soap Dispensary in Vancouver, BC. I’ve been looking for an online source for these little scoops but the smallest I can find is these 3″ wood scoops. If I find an online source for the smaller ones, I’ll be sure to post it here.

Use a dash of finishing salt on meat and fresh vegetables from the garden to add a little bit of extra freshness and garden flavour to every meal.

Make sure to store your herb finishing salt in air-tight jars once it’s done infusing.

FAQ About Herb Finishing Salt

What is the shelf life of herb finishing salt?

I use this herb finishing salt for a year. It could last even longer, as the salt acts as a preservative. The herbs inside will begin to fade in flavour somewhat is the 6-month mark.

For me, I use it up before then, which is good timing as the herb garden should be growing again by then.

Should I seal the mixture while it’s infusing?

I leave the mixture out in the open for a week to let the herbs infuse into the salt. I zest the fresh lime right into the salt mixture. You want to leave the mixture open and not sealed while it’s infusing to allow the moisture from the lime and fresh herbs to evaporate.

Can these be made with other herbs?

Absolutely! Try it with basil, mint, oregano, thyme…you name it! The process is the same no matter what herbs you add. The lime is also optional, as it’s just for flavour and will not affect the shelf life of the finishing salt.

More Herb Recipes to Try
Fresh Lime and Rosemary Herb Finishing Salt

This finishing salt is packed with flavour to top off meats and vegetables, and also packages as a beautiful hostess gift.

Cook Time15 minutes

Infusing time7 days

Total Time7 days 15 minutes

Course: Seasoning

Keyword: herb finishing salt

Servings: 10 4 oz jars

4 cups coarse sea salt

4 cups fresh rosemary leaves

4 large limes

Use fresh herbs from the garden for this recipe to maximize taste.

Remove rosemary leaves from the woody stem.

Add the leaves to a powerful food processor or Vitamix blender until the herbs are fine. Set aside herbs.

Add the coarse salt to the food processor and pulse a few times until it has reached the desired texture.

In a large bowl, mix in the salt with the grinded rosemary leaves. Zest the four limes directly into the bowl and stir.

Let the herb finishing salt infuse uncovered for a week.

Once a week has passed, package your herb finishing salt into airtight containers.

Use a scoop when using the herb finishing salt to keep fingers out of the mixture.
[ad_2]

Stephanie Rose

Source link
August 26, 2024