To get those beautiful, spring flowers, you have to put in a little bit of work now. Plan ahead and plant these hardy fall bulbs before the ground freezes. They’ll cozy up for the winter and emerge at the first sign of spring!
I often find myself wandering around my garden in spring, immensely enjoying the brightly coloured blooms popping up everywhere, even through snow-covered, frosty ground. It’s during those times that I reap the benefit of taking the time the previous year to plant hardy fall bulbs that chill out for the winter and delight in the spring.
Bulbs are identified by the season they are planted, not that in which they grow, so with hardy fall bulbs, it is important to think ahead to what the garden will look like in future seasons and find the right space, colour, height and number to create the design you desire.
These are some true hardy bulbs, meant to be planted in the fall to bloom in the spring. They don’t mind the cold and will brighten things up after a long winter.
You can find bulbs at garden centres or hardware stores, as well as online.
USDA zones: 3-8
The butterfly of flowers, the tulip is decorative and delicate, with as much variety in appearance as the gardeners who plant them. Small or tall, early or late blooming, ruffled or smooth, multicoloured or striped, the tulip is the perfect showpiece for almost any garden.
Tulips can be perennials or annuals. Make sure you know which you’re buying!
Crocuses
USDA zones: 3-9
One of the first fall bulbs braving the frozen soil, the crocus offers a taste of what’s to come while still covered in winter’s frost. Generally, crocuses range from purple and yellow, but blues, whites, and oranges can also be found.
The shorties are best in the front of flower beds, but I absolutely love crocuses livening up the ground under a deciduous (as they bloom before the leaves grow), or wildly dotted through a green lawn.
Crocus flowers are one of the first to emerge while it’s still frosty.
Narcissus
USDA zones: 3-8
Bearing the same name as the Greek God who fell in love with his own reflection, the Narcissus is a true symbol of beauty. Many may be familiar with the standard yellow Daffodil (a common English name), but the genus also includes a variety of 50 to 100 frilly gems in yellow, white, orange, and everything in between.
Narcissus have many specialty varieties outside the standard yellow daffodil.
Alliums
USDA zones: 3-9
Alliums are in the same family as the onion, yet the decorative varieties don’t have edible bulbs. What they do have is fascinating blooms with structures that decorate the garden long after the flower has faded. While there are over 750 species, some are wild, some are edible, and a few are absolute showstoppers in a garden. Read more All About Alliums.
Alliums leave behind decorative seed heads.
Anemones
USDA zones: 7-10
If you fondly remember picking buttercups as a child, you’ll adore the grown-up version, Anemones, meaning “daughter of the wind” in Greek. These delicate, low-growing blooms will surely perk up the front border with rich colour and what seems to be an all-knowing eye dramatically darkening the center.
Anemones most often come in jewel tones.
More Bulbs to Love
A city girl who learned to garden and it changed everything. Author, artist, Master Gardener. Better living through plants.
Chances are, you’ve seen packets of stevia in your local coffee shop. But did you know that the stevia plant can be grown in your own backyard? Here’s everything you need to know about how to grow, harvest, and enjoy stevia leaves at home.
Stevia has become all the rage lately, and for good reason! It is a no-calorie, plant-based sweetener that is 200 times sweeter than sugar. Green stevia leaves can be grown in the home garden and harvested to make a huge number of sweet-tasting recipes that won’t spike insulin or cause inflammation like sugar does.
I love the flavour of green stevia, and I regularly give visitors stevia leaves from my garden to taste. They often have the same look after tasting it: a combination of “Wow, that’s sweet” and “Hmmm, it doesn’t taste like sugar.”
That’s because people tend to think of stevia as a diet product or a sugar replacement. Even though it is often marketed that way, the stevia plant is an herb with a wonderful flavour and a great many uses. If you are trying to kick a sugar addiction, stevia very well may help, but it should also be appreciated for the herbaceous, green, sweet flavourthat is uniquely its own.
Jump ahead to…
How Growing Stevia Saved My Life
After I gave birth to my son, my hormones got all messed up, and I felt awful. I went to talk to my doctor about what could possibly be making me so tired, puffy, sluggish, and craving food all. the. time.
It didn’t make any sense to me.
I exercised regularly and followed the Canada Health guide for eating a balanced diet: everything in moderation, lean meats, a rainbow of fruits and vegetables, low fat, and whole grains. I was doing everything right.
But I felt terrible.
And I was always starving.I craved sugar like it had an all-powerful control over me, and I couldn’t figure out why. When I asked my doctor if I could possibly be insulin resistant, she said, “Oh, you most certainly are.”
I was shocked! I asked, “Why didn’t you tell me this before? Can’t you do something about it?” She replied that what you do about it is what I was already doing: following a healthy diet and exercising regularly.
Clearly, that was not working.
I became insulin resistant after the birth of my son.
Saying Goodbye to Sugar
I changed my diet dramatically by cutting out all sugar: sugar, honey, maple syrup, and even fruit. Yes, even fruit.
I also cut out anything that my body could easily convert to sugar: carbs. Then, I cut out all grains and all starchy vegetables as well. Finally, I added more healthy fats into my diet, organic and grass-fed meats, and lots and lots of green vegetables.
These changes made an enormous difference in how I felt almost immediately. At first, I felt horrible. I was so sick and felt like I was going to die as I detoxed from sugar.
But then, after a few weeks, I started to get much better. I had more energy than I’ve ever had in my life. I felt much lighter and less puffy. And I lost a ton of inflammation, which helped to reduce my chronic pain dramatically.
How I Reversed Insulin Resistance
The numbers showed why I felt so much better. When I first had my blood tested, it showed a very high level of insulin resistance, and I looked like I was well on my way to developing diabetes. Within 6 months of a sugar-free diet, I’d cut that number in half. Within a year, I had completely reversed the insulin resistance. And then my doctor asked me to teach her what I had done!
It took a ton of willpower to cut out sugar for good. No sugar. At all. Not even on my birthday. Yup, that’s right, no birthday cake.
Living sugar-free is not easy. Sugar is in absolutely everything. It’s part of every celebration and social gathering. And it’s the first thing that your body wants when you’re hungry. Your body knows to ask for that quick fix of something sweet so that it can give you a burst of energy. And it tastes so good. So, so good.
I was committed to kicking sugar in all its forms so I could stop the cycle of insulin resistance and build a better life. I wanted to have the energy to be able to raise my son. And live a long life to see him grow up.
Needless to say, cutting out sugar has been a lifesaver for me. But also, it can be a bummer to have to pass on your favourite treats. I looked into how I could use something herbal and natural to create recipes that I loved that don’t replace sugar but are even better. That taste delicious, sweet, and green – just how I want to live my life!
That’s where stevia (and the stevia plant!) comes in.
The stevia you grow tastes very different than the stevia you get at the grocery store.
All About the Stevia Plant
There used to be controversy around stevia, particularly in the United States, where it was banned because there were not enough studies to say whether or not it was safe to consume. Even products like aspartame and other artificial sweeteners (oh, and sugar) were deemed safe to be sold on the market.
I won’t go into the politics behind sugar and sweeteners because there are more than enough resources out there to shed light on those issues. I can only speak to how everything that I do for my own personal health and the health of my family has to make sense and feel good to me.
In short, when I can grow an herb in my garden organically, I have a lot more trust in its safety than I do in man-made or synthetic products.
Many people don’t realize that stevia is actually a herb.
Stevia Plant Vs Powdered Stevia
The stevia that you buy at the grocery store is very different than the stevia plant you grow in your garden.
When I first tasted stevia, it was in a powder form from a packet, and it tasted quite bitter and very sweet. Honestly, I did not like it at all. But when I started growing the stevia plant in my garden, I experimented a lot to find ways that it could help me feed my sweet tooth while doing good things for my body.
As an artificial sweetener, stevia is often either a clear liquid extract or a white powder. Essentially, what’s been done is the sweet component of stevia has been extracted and added to either a powder or a liquid like alcohol or glycerin so that it dilutes the sweetness and helps to remove some of the bitter aftertastes.
Green stevia, or Stevia rebaudiana, is what you’ll grow in the garden. It grows like an herb with serrated-edged leaves and is native to South America. Indigenous peoples of South America have used the stevia plant for hundreds of years, both medicinally and as a sweetening agent.
The flavour of green stevia leaves reminds me of a bit of green tea mixed with sweeteners. It is quite sweet, so a little goes a long way. Over the past three years that I have been growing and testing out stevia in various recipes, I have learned how to harvest and prepare it so that I don’t miss sugar one bit. And, more importantly, stevia helps me to stay away from sugar so that I don’t fall off the wagon.
Stevia rebaudiana has a herby and earthy sweet taste.
Benefits of Stevia
I’m not the only one who noticed a change! In a 2010 study, stevia has been shown to significantly lower insulin and glucose levels. The plant can help to keep blood sugar levels in check. And as a nonnutritive sweetener, it has no calories.
When you look at stevia as a herb, you see it in a whole new light. The herbal properties of stevia help to scrub away the biofilm in the gut, which can hide bacteria and cause digestive problems. The stevia allows your good gut flora to neutralize the bad flora. Plus, you’re not adding sugar and therefore avoiding a bad bacteria gut party.
Most of all, it works well to kick that sugar habit. Since it’s so much sweeter than regular sugar, a little goes a long way. One stevia plant can provide you with more than enough sweetness for your daily cravings.
Stevia leaves have not been approved by the FDA for commercial use, so you can only grow and use stevia leaves from your garden. Little research has been done on using stevia leaves. But in my experience, they’re a wonderful alternative and have made all the difference in kicking my sugar habit.
Dried stevia can be ground into a powder to easily top desserts.
How to Plant Stevia
Grow green stevia in full sun in containers or in loose, loamy, well-draining soil. Space plants 18” apart so they can fill out and grow 12-36″ tall. Like basil, if you continue to pinch the plant back and use the top leaves, it will become bushier and fuller with stronger stalks.
Stevia can be grown from seed in the winter or from rooted cuttings. As far as herbs go, growing stevia takes a little more effort than most. They require some heat to get started, and it may take a few practice seedlings.
Green stevia can overwinter in zones 8 and above, although the older the plant, the tougher the leaves become. It’s better to start new cuttings or new seeds each year for the freshest stevia.
Prune back your stevia plant a few times throughout the growing season to prevent flowering and to encourage branching. Once the plant flowers, the leaf flavour becomes less appealing. Similar to most herbs and vegetables that you eat for their leaves, once the plant energy starts to go into flowering, the leaves become bitter or less flavorful.
Grow new stevia plants each year for the best flavour.
Where Can I Buy Stevia Plants?
Stevia plants are now usually available at your favourite garden center in the herb section. Since most plants from garden centres have been treated with pesticides, don’t eat the stevia leaves right away. Wait for new growth, prune back your stevia plant, and enjoy the new (untreated growth) for consumption.
If you prune back your stevia plant a few times in the year, you’ll have plenty to use fresh and in recipes throughout the summer months.
Check out the delicious coconut ice cream and melon dessert that Chef Andrea from Burdock & Co made from my garden stevia when I hosted a garden-to-table event there last year.
Remove the leaves from the stems and use the leaves to make fresh tea or liquid extract. You can also dry the leaves by tying the stems and bundles and hanging them in a cool, dark place until the leaves dry.
In the fall, harvest the entire plant after the weather has dipped. Cooler temperatures enhance the sweetness of stevia leaves.
Harvest green stevia in the morning when it has the highest sugar content.
Stevia leaves are used as a garnish for this hibiscus iced tea as well as a natural sweetener.
Drying and Storing Stevia
To dry stevia, cut the stems and bundle them together with garden twine. Hang them upside down on an herb drying rack in a cool, dark place out of direct sunlight. When there is no moisture left, you can remove the leaves and store them in Mason jars or grind them into a powder.
Use the leaves only, discarding the dried stems.
How to Use Stevia Plants
Now that you have your stevia plant harvested and dried—what do you do with it? Depending on the form of the stevia, you can use it for many different things, including smoothies, coffee, and even baking. Dried stevia powder, the leaves themselves, and a liquid sweetener are all great ways to use the herb.
Homemade Green Stevia Powder
To make a green stevia powder that can be used in baking recipes, take the dried leaves and put them in a powerful blender or food processor (I use the “dry ingredient” attachment on my Vitamix) to create a very fine powder.
Even though this powder may be quite fine, it will not dissolve in liquids. Instead, it will just float to the top, so you probably won’t want to use it in your morning coffee. I like to use it in baking and in recipes where it is dispersed throughout, like in a mousse.
Stevia powder will not dissolve like sugar. Keep this in mind when using it.
Stevia Sweetened Tea
Use fresh or dried stevia leaves to sweeten tea. Add one small bit of leaf to hot water in combination with your other tea herbsto add a natural, earthy sweetness.
Stevia will not steep in cold water so the water must be warm in order to release the sweetness. Always keep in mind that stevia is so much sweeter than sugar that you only need a little bit as it will go a long way.
One fresh leaf per cup of tea is usually all I need for a little bit of sweetness.
Making an extract involves adding the stevia leaves to a liquid to draw out the flavours. You then strain out and discard the leaves, leaving you with a sweet stevia extract that is easy to use in liquids like tea, soda, smoothies, and other recipes where powdered stevia would not dissolve.
I like this recipe for making stevia extract because you can make it in alcohol, but there are also instructions on how to dealcoholize it if you wish.
Use fresh or dried stevia as a garnish.
I hope that the stevia plant changes your life for the better as it did mine. Let me know in the comments how you use stevia, and feel free to share your favourite recipes!
More Herbal Growing Guides
A city girl who learned to garden and it changed everything. Author, artist, Master Gardener. Better living through plants.
The best way to preserve the beauty of the garden is with a flower press. With just a few materials and tools, you can make a handmade flower press that looks as beautiful as it is functional.
You can certainly preserve flowers and leaves in a book, a method that works well and is explained in this article. For those of you who want to take your crafting to a whole new level, a flower press will give you the most pristine and perfect dried flowers to create your artwork.
Last summer, I grew violas for the first time. They are such pretty flowers, I decided on a whim to press some between a few heavy books. Those pressings turned into a favourite summer activity, and I soon had quite the collection of pressed flowers and leaves from my garden.
This year, as I plan my garden planting, I’ve also decided to prep for more pressings by making my own handmade flower press. Let me take you along and show you how you can make one too!
Colourful flowers often press the best as they retain their colour well.
Handmade Flower Press
Luckily, my grandfather has a woodworking shop, so I stopped by one afternoon and we made this flower press together.
Materials
2 pieces of wood of equal size
4 bolts
4 washers
4 wing nuts
Cardboard (or thin wood)
Watercolour paper (or white paper)
Additional Tools
Saw (or have your wood cut to size at your local hardware store)
Drill
Sandpaper
You can easily use recycled or scrap wood for this project.
Make It!
First, cut your wood to size (you can make your flower press any size you want!). I made mine approximately 8″x 10″. Then, with the two pieces of wood stacked together, drill a hole through each corner (all the way through both pieces of wood). Use sandpaper to smooth off any rough edges.
Note: Make sure to choose a drill bit that is the same size as your bolt. I recommend drilling a test hole (using a scrap piece of wood) and making sure the bolt slides through the hole easily.
Use sandpaper to smooth the rough edges of your cut wood.
Next, cut your cardboard to size. My grandfather happened to have a piece of very thin wood on hand, so we decided to use that instead. Cut your cardboard/wood slightly smaller than your 2 boards. Then cut off each corner so that it will fit inside the bolts.
Use a piece of the cut cardboard/wood as a guide for cutting the watercolour paper (or white paper) to size.
Cardboard between your paper helps to absorb moisture and keep things straight.
How to Use a Wooden Flower Press
To assemble the press, insert a bolt into each corner of the bottom piece of the press. Layer alternate pieces of cardboard, paper, and flowers or leaves inside the press. The number of layers you use will depend on how many flowers you are pressing.
Note: I don’t recommend using paper towels (instead of white paper or watercolour paper) as the texture of the paper towel will be imprinted into your flowers while pressing.
The number of layers you can have depends on how tall your bolts are.
Place the top piece of wood onto the press by threading the bolts through the holes. Add a washer to each bolt, then top with a wing nut, screwing each one down tight, creating even pressure. Your flowers still need some air flow to properly, so make sure the press isn’t too, too tight.
Create pressure and make it flat, but still allow air flow.
Let Your Flowers Dry In The Press For One Month
This part requires some patience. Allow your flowers to press for a full 30 days. I highly recommend checking on the flowers every week to ensure there is no mould. The thicker and juicier the flower, the more likely it is to mould.
Just be extremely careful because checking them, as pulling the layers can result in tearing or wrinkling your flowers!
Let the flowers dry fully for one month before you remove them from the flower press.
Expert Tips for Flower Pressing
Harvest flowers for pressing on dry days. The best time to collect flowers is mid-morning after the morning dew has dried.
Get your picked flowers into the press as soon as possible, before they start to wilt, and keep them out of direct sunlight.
Sort your flowers by type and then place them face down into the press. Grouping like flowers together is best because they will dry at the same rate.
Make sure the flowers do not touch each other in the press. Otherwise, as they dry, they will become stuck together forever.
When pressed properly, flowers retain their shape and colour well.
Decorate Your Plant Press
After my flower press was assembled, I decided to decorate the top with a botanical illustration I found in an old book. I used an X-Acto knife to carefully cut out the flowers. Once cut out, I sprayed the back with adhesive and placed it onto the press. Next, I coated it with a few layers of Mod Podge and gave it a final spray of clear acrylic sealer to give it some extra protection.
Customize your wooden flower press by adding your own illustration, painting, or collage.
Flower Press FAQ
What layers do you need in a plant press?
Each layer of your flower press should consist of a piece of cardboard, the white or watercolour paper, your pressed flowers and leaves, the white paper again, and another piece of cardboard. Keep stacking layers until your flower press is full, and add the wooden piece on top to seal it all in.
How do I press small flowers?
One hack to help press small flowers is to put them between two cotton pads (like the cosmetic ones) instead of paper. This helps them to hold their shape better and prevent the small petals from shrivelling up. Just make sure to use smooth cotton pads so there is no imprint on the flower petals.
What flowers are not good for pressing?
Anything thick and juicy will be difficult to press as it retains too much moisture during the drying process. Unfortunately, this means that plants like dahlias, roses, tulips, mums, lilies, and more are difficult to press without the flower moulding. Many people suggest disassembling the flower petals and reconstructing the “flower” after all the petals have been pressed.
White flowers will also tend to turn yellow or brown in the press, but you can have success with them. Just make sure to press a few extras and see what turns out!
Use Your Pressed Flowers in These Crafts
Rachel Beyer is an artist, designer and creative maker living in Portland, Oregon. She spends her days working at Molly Muriel Apothecary and blogging at Adventures In Making. Her favorite hobbies include cooking, gardening, and crafting.
Secret gardens are some of the most magical spaces. Find a small corner or space tucked away in your yard and turn it into your own personal sanctuary. Take a tour through some secret gardens to find inspiration and learn some tips about creating your own along the way.
Have you been lucky enough to visit a secret garden? As you walk along a pathway, through an ornate gate, or under a rose-covered arbour, you arrive at a welcoming spot, perhaps with a water feature or a bench, to sit and enjoy a small space that is usually beyond view.
It draws you in.
As you turn a corner or open a door, you are met with the answer to the mystery. A garden space that seems to be created just for you.
A secret garden.
Water features offer tranquillity thanks to their sounds and reflections.
Canuck Place
I became interested in the idea of secret gardens after touring the Canuck Place Children’s Hospice gardens and seeing the secluded and unique places that have been designed around the grounds for families and children.
Canuck Place is a truly moving place, filled with beauty and love for the most unimaginably difficult times a family could ever go through. The gardeners work hard to create a secret garden—or a collection of them throughout the larger garden—as a place of joy and tranquillity.
What struck me on my tour of the gardens was the small spaces; the hidden benches and covered arbours that invited you in, like a friendly hug. The volunteers work many hours to create such spaces throughout the garden so they can touch the lives of those who need it.
Moon gates are great at drawing you in.
Secret Gardens Are Everywhere
After my tour of Canuck Place, I began to notice the secret gardens that were tucked in residential houses on garden tours, public spaces, and within botanical or public gardens.
Secret gardens can be a unique way to reflect your personality in the garden.
From doors that open to an outdoor living space to quirky benches built into a hidden corner, a secret garden is unexpected, inviting, and quaint.
Sitting areas are essential for secret gardens.
Each one that I have seen is completely unique, yet the common thread to all of them is that they are fiercely personal.
Modern concrete surrounded by wild-looking grasses is in great contrast to a front yard running riverbed.
The key to secret gardens is that they are a place for privacy.
My First Secret Garden
When I was in my first home and recovering from a debilitating illness, I created a space that I could use to sit out and enjoy the garden during those periods where I barely had the strength to sit upright. The backyard garden was my therapy space, where I would garden to strengthen my body and my mind. Some days I could only work for a few minutes, but just being out in the garden was healing.
My hammock chair was under the deck for comfort on both rainy and sunny days.
I found a hammock chair and hung it up under the small deck. There was just enough room to tuck the chair in, and it was a perfectly cool and shady spot to watch the pollinators buzz and the flowers blow in the wind.
The ground below was covered in river stones and engraved rocks with words like “love” and “smile” set randomly throughout. It may not have been the most elaborate space, but I spent many hours healing in that space, and I’m so very grateful for it.
River stones allowed me to go out barefoot in the space.
Time, Again, to Create a Secret Garden
When I moved, my hammock chair came with me, installed under an arbour in a prominent spot in the backyard. I spent many summer days cuddling with my son, and many more of them spinning him and his friends around in it. The hammock took on a brand new life.
The hammock chair in its new spot.
I missed that secret place under the deck, a quiet but lively space, where the garden can be watched and enjoyed, which inspired me to once again create a secret garden, this time in the front-yard shade garden.
The garden centred around a spillway fountain and river rock bed under a large Pacific dogwood and backed by a Lace-leaf weeping Japanese maple. Even though I have studied these spaces often, I was still surprised by how much pleasure they provided.
It was a secret but not isolated—the garden welcomed family and friends to sit, talk, read, or just watch the wildlife.
The front yard was my favourite garden on the property. It had a fabulous structure and some beautiful mature plants.
My secret garden was in the shade and surrounded by leafy foliage.
When you walked along the sidewalk in front of the house, you would find a blooming hydrangea, draping Japanese maple, and colourful shade garden plants like ferns, Hellebores, and Heucheras.
Only a few people noticed the trickling sound and curiously peeked around the corner. The secret garden wasn’t much of a secret; it just felt like one. It was only a few feet from the public sidewalk, and passersby could hear the fountain bubbling as they approached the front steps.
Friends and neighbours (and the occasional off-leash, water-loving canine) would be down the stairs by the sound, see the fountain, and be welcomed onto the bench to sit and enjoy the space. Very much like a friendly hug.
The fountain and bench in my secret garden.
Tips to Create Your Own Secret Garden
I enjoyed that garden for a decade before it was time to move again.I’m currently shaping my new space, and I have a feeling a new secret garden will take shape.
If you want to create your own, here’s what I recommend:
Mark it with a special entrance. This can be something as enchanting as a moon gate or a clematis-covered arbour, or as simple as my pathway in front of a bench. Something that draws you to the space.
Add a water feature. This can be a small fountain, bird bath, or even a wildlife pond. Water brings tranquillity, thanks to its soothing repetitive sound and reflective qualities.
Include a sitting area. You want somewhere to sit to enjoy your secret garden. It’s a place of relaxation and is intended for you to rest.
Appeal to the senses. Add fragrant flowers and herbs to smell, a windchime to listen to, soft plants to touch, and interesting foliage to look at. This will all help to ground you in the space.
Personalize it. All secret gardens are deeply personal and very much reflect the gardener who created them. Add the plants you love, hang garden art, and make it a place just for you.
More Gardens to Inspire You
A city girl who learned to garden and it changed everything. Author, artist, Master Gardener. Better living through plants.
Your pup’s paws go through a lot of wear and tear. When out in the yard or strolling through the neighbourhood, harsh elements can cause dryness, cracking, and even serious injuries! Protect their little paws with this dog paw balm recipe.
Dog paw balm is a necessity in your pet’s routine! While it may be a lesser-known component of pet care, treating your dogs’ paws really is important. Without proper care, pet paws are prone to a lot of damage, simply from walking around.
Animals have always been a huge part of my life. Dogs, in particular, have a special place in my heart. My past dogs, Tallulah and Meatball, were so dear to me that it was hard to imagine bringing another pup into my circle.
This changed when I first saw little Ozzie and his little scruffy necktie while scrolling through Facebook. I adopted Ozzie from an organization that works to rescue Mexican street dogs and place them in loving homes.
A year later, Ozzie settled in and quickly became a beloved addition to our family, along with my cat, Magic. I’ve developed this DIY paw balm with dogs like Ozzie in mind as a natural solution for paw care.
Jump ahead to…
Ozzie, the scruffy puppy.
Is Paw Balm Good for Dogs?
Absolutely! All dogs can benefit from paw balm. It has a gel-like consistency, designed to bring back moisture to your pets’ paws. Just like we use moisturizer to heal dry hands or lip balm to avoid chapped lips, our dogs’ paws need regular moisturizing.
Benefits of paw balm include:
Moisturizing dry paw pads
Protecting paws from harsh conditions like ice or hot concrete
Treating paw injuries such as cracks, cuts, and blisters
Preventing future paw pad injuries
I make my balm big enough to fit Ozzie’s paw in it directly.
Do Vets Recommend Paw Balm?
Yes! Veterinarians recommend paw balm to both treat and prevent paw injuries. It is an important part of caring for your dog and should be part of your regular pet care routine. That being said, not all paw balms are made the same.
It is important to use a balm that is made with dogs in mind. Dogs can’t tell if a product is toxic or not, and it is likely they’ll get in at least a couple of licks. You don’t want to use balms designed for humans on your furry friends…the ingredients could cause them harm!
When in doubt, I always choose the natural route. Making my own DIY paw balm ensures that I am informed about each ingredient.
Yes, your dog will lick this paw balm. It’s natural.
DIY Dog Paw Balm Recipe
Make paw balm part of your pet care routine! You can use this balm several times a day to help heal your dogs’ paws and prevent any future discomfort.
Ingredients
Makes 138g. See the recipe card for exact measurements.
You don’t need many ingredients for the dog paw balm.
Make It!
Before starting your recipe, make sure your olive oil is ready to go by following these infusion instructions. I infused my olive oil with calendula for its medicinal benefits such as antifungal and antimicrobial properties.
Add your infused olive oil, coconut oil, shea butter, and beeswax to a double boiler. Over medium heat, slowly melt the ingredients together until the beeswax is fully melted. Don’t allow the oils to cool or leave them unattended.
Don’t overheat your materials, allowing them just to melt before removing from heat.
Once melted, remove from heat and allow it to slightly cool (while still remaining in a liquid state). If it does accidentally solidify, simply reheat slowly again.
Add in your Vitamin E and lavender essential oil (the lavender is optional!). Since these oils are more volatile, they break down easier with heat. The antioxidant properties of Vitamin E will significantly reduce when heated. That’s why we want to add oils at the last possible minute.
Stir the combination well before pouring it into clean and sterile containers. Let them sit undisturbed until fully cool. Once set, wipe the rims with a clean cloth before placing the lids on.
This paw balm for dogs is good for three months. If you notice any colour change, discard it earlier.
Disinfect your tins with alcohol before pouring in the melted dog paw balm.
How to Use Dog Paw Balm
First, clean your hands. If your dog’s paws are cracked or cut, you’ll need to avoid contaminating the injury.
Then, simply wipe a bit of balm on each paw pad, making sure to cover them entirely. You don’t need to work this balm in much; the ingredients will do the work for you!
Apply a few times a day, or as needed. The best time to apply would be right before bedtime so that the balm has time to work while your dog snoozes.
If your dog is fussy about their paws, bring out the treats to distract them while you apply the balm.
Frequently Asked Questions About Dog Paw Balm
How do I know if my dog’s paws need moisturizing?
You’ll know your dog’s paws require a little TLC if they are dry and coarse to the touch or show any sign of cracking. Dogs’ paws will need extra moisture, particularly in the cold, winter season so it is best to use paw balm preventatively during this time!
Your dogs’ paws don’t need to be injured, however, to use a moisturizing balm! Use paw balm on healthy paws to prevent possible injury or discomfort.
Is it safe if my dog licks paw balm?
My dog paw balm contains non-toxic ingredients that won’t harm your pup! This being said, it’s best to take a few measures to encourage dogs not to lick. Excess licking can take away the balm’s moisturizing effect and actually make your dog’s paws drier!
When creating this paw balm recipe, I let my dog smell various natural butters to determine which he wasn’t interested in licking. Out of cocoa butter, mango butter, and shea butter, shea was the winner! It doesn’t have a strong scent, so dogs are less likely to lick it.
If you’re concerned with licking, try adding the optional few drops of lavender essential oil to your paw balm. It will be unappetizing for your dog, and they’ll want to keep their tongues far away!
Most folks know that chocolate is toxic to dogs, but cocoa butter isn’t as toxic. It is generally a safe ingredient to use in paw balm according to this vet.
Let me know how this paw balm for dogs works for your pup! It really has made all the difference in soothing little Ozzie’s feet.
More Dog-Friendly DIYs
DIY Dog Palm Recipe
Moisturize and soothe your dog’s cracked and dry paws with this all-natural paw balm recipe. Makes 138g.
Infuse your calendula into your olive oil before starting the recipe.
Add your olive oil, coconut oil, shea butter, and beeswax to a double boiler. Melt over medium heat. Don’t leave unattended or allow to cool.
Remove from heat. Allow it to slightly cool before adding Vitamin E oil and the optional lavender essential oil.
Stir well before pouring into clean and sterile containers. Let sit until fully cooled.
Butterflies are beautiful to watch flitting about the garden. Plus, they are essential pollinators for a large number of plants. Many butterfly populations are dwindling right now, but with a few minor tweaks in the garden, we can help save these pretty pollinators and enjoy their beauty and benefits in the garden at the same time. Read on to discover which plants butterflies need during their life cycle, and what to grow to create the ideal butterfly garden.
I think we can all agree that butterflies are one of the best things Mother Nature has come up with. With colours as bright and beautiful as the flowers we grow in the garden, they provide so much joy to every person they pass by.
Not only are they providing us with beauty, but they’re also important pollinators for our garden plants. For many of our pollinators, it becomes difficult to live in urban spaces where pesticides and concrete run rampant.
Here’s how you can support your local butterflies and ensure you build a beautiful and ideal space for the little pollinators.
This post will cover…
West Coast lady butterfly (Vanessa Annabella)
Know the Butterfly Lifecycle
In order to attract butterflies, it is important to understand their life cycle and the specific needs that go along with it.
Egg: Butterflies begin as eggs laid on the leaves of host plants.
Caterpillar: The egg hatches into a caterpillar, which at this stage does nothing but eat! It eats its way out of the egg to gain nutrients and then eats its host plant, which is why it needs to be located on the right plant for that type of butterfly.
Cocoon: Once the caterpillar has eaten enough to grow to its full size, it makes a cocoon or “chrysalis.”
Butterfly: Inside the cocoon, it metamorphoses into a butterfly. Just a few weeks to several months later (depending on the species), it emerges as a mature butterfly. After just a few hours, the butterfly gains enough strength to begin flying and pollinating flowers.
Having the right host plants for native butterflies in your area is essential for supporting them.
Plants That Support the Butterfly’s Lifecycle
Their life cycle requires butterflies to have both host plants for the larval stage and food plants for mature butterflies to pollinate.
Because species in different regions have evolved along with the area’s plant life to coexist, butterflies need to have native plants available to them. It is important for butterfly populations to have spaces kept entirely wild, weeds and all, such as nature preserves.
From small urban gardens to fields of wildflowers, every butterfly-safe environment helps. Creating your own butterfly garden helps to offset any habitat that has been destroyed due to development or maintenance.
Butterflies, too, can be affected by pesticides, and ensuring we grow safe plants for them helps to provide a place for them to thrive year-round.
How to Make a Butterfly Garden
Don’t worry, creating a butterfly garden doesn’t mean encouraging a bunch of weeds (although if you do decide to let a few live here or there, butterflies will appreciate it).
Gardeners who want a manicured look, as well as a butterfly garden, have many options for pretty plants that attract butterflies and provide them with what they need throughout their life cycle.
But first, here are a few additional things you need to complete your butterfly garden.
A Sunny Area
Butterflies thrive in the sun. As ectotherms, they rely on external sources in order to stay warm. Before they can fly, they need to make sure their body temperature is warm enough.
You’ve probably seen them perched on a sunny leaf with their wings on full display. This is them soaking up the sun! So, on the next sunny day, sit back and watch your visitors check out their favourite plants and sunbathe.
Tree Nymph butterfly (Idea leuconoe)
A Butterfly Feeder
A butterfly garden needs the right plants growing in sunny areas and a safe place for mature butterflies to lay their eggs. You can make your habitat even more attractive by putting together a butterfly feeder for them to snack on.
Butterflies feed on nectar, which is sugar from a plant. Fresh fruit also provides this for the butterflies. This is a good way to add supplemental nectar to the garden when there may be fewer blooms or if you notice a ton of butterflies.
However, having native plants with lots of nectar throughout the season is the best source!
Use up old fruits that are about to go in the compost bin.
Mud Puddles
Did you know that butterflies adore mud? They congregate around muddy areas, which gives them salt and nutrients. You can help them out by placing a shallow pan of water out for them. They often avoid birdbaths and other pools because the water is too deep.
A shallow pan gives them access to water for drinking and puddling. Adding some gravel or sand at the bottom helps, as well as rocks for basking in the sun.
Common Butterflies and Their Host Plants
Choosing native plants or a standard butterfly seed mix will attract various butterflies that are native to your area, but if you are looking to attract particular butterflies, your best bet is to plant the specific host plants that species in your area use.
Here are some of the most common butterfly species and the host plants that they require for the larval stage.
Once butterflies reach the mature stage of their life cycle, they are attracted to brightly coloured flowers with flat tops, short flower tubes, or flower clusters.
There are many butterfly-friendly plants, so the chances are you can find a few that will suit your growing zone. Here’s a list of some plants that will attract mature butterflies to your garden as long as they have host plants nearby as well.
By the way, milkweed might be one of the most beloved butterfly foods!Learn how to grow milkweed and find out why they love it so much. In addition to having a pretty flower garden, you can attract these lovely pollinators at the same time, creating a perfect garden partnership.
Red postman butterfly (Heliconius erato)
Supporting Other Pollinators
Moths are often forgotten about, but they are also beneficial pollinators and can be very beautiful. To attract moths to your garden, plant night-blooming flowers such as evening primrose (Oenothera), phlox (Phlox x arendsii), and fireweed (Chamerion angustifolium).
Butterflies and bees aren’t the only beneficial insects you want in your garden! Find out about the 7 best bugs for the garden.
Just because they don’t have bright, beautiful wings doesn’t mean they’re not important pollinators, too.
FAQ About Butterfly Gardens
What is the most common garden butterfly?
The most common butterfly varies depending on where you live. The most common globally is the painted lady species, which is found on every continent besides Antarctica and South America. Other common butterflies include monarchs and swallowtails.
What is in a butterfly garden?
A butterfly garden supports butterflies at every stage of their life. This means it’s important to have the host plants for the butterfly to lay eggs on and for the caterpillars to munch.
Then, you’ll need flowers to provide nectar. Butterflies like bright flowers with flat tops, as well as short tubular flowers. When in doubt, plant some native species for the pollinators in your neighbourhood.
A butterfly garden can also include a shallow bath with stones for butterflies to safely drink and puddle from.
Where is the best place to plant a butterfly garden?
Place your butterfly garden in the sun, as butterflies are ectotherms and rely on the sun to keep their bodies warm. Also, consider placing your butterfly garden away from anywhere there might be pesticides and away from bird feeders.
Lemon balm’s antiviral properties make it a popular herb for the treatment of cold sores, chicken pox, bug bites, and other little red spots. This recipe for lemon balm lip balm not only has a bright and cheery lemon fragrance, but it also is a great way to prevent and treat cold sores.
Lemon balm is the herb for little red spots. It makes a fresh and delicious tea and grows like crazy in the garden, but in herb circles, it’s known for so much more.
This powerful and plentiful herb is one of the best ways to treat AND prevent cold sores from happening. I use it year round, helping to stop the annoying red dots from popping up. And as a bonus, I have a use for all the lemon balm that never stops popping up in the garden.
Making your own lip balm is quite easy, and infusing it with lemon balm is also a simple process. Here’s how you can make your own lemon balm lip balm for cold sores.
Get to Know Lemon balm (Melissa officinalis)
When I first started gardening I used to pull out lemon balm by the handfuls and throw it into the compost bin. While I love the fresh, bright, lemony smell and the pretty mint-like leaves, it grows like crazy and seems to be in every spot of the garden. Now, that I’ve mostly cleared it out of all the spaces where it was growing naturalized I can’t help but wonder
“What the heck was I doing!”
That wonderful lemon balm has so many uses! And so now I start lemon balm from seed, place it in the garden, and happily harvest any extras that might pop up.
Lemon balm (Melissa officinalis) essential oil is one of the most expensive essential oils you can buy. Because of its price point, it’s not very commonly used in aromatherapy. But it’s also reserved because it is incredibly powerful in strong concentrations (like you’ll find an essential oil).
It is more common to see herbal preparations as tea, honey, and infused oil for the home herb lover. I love it as a herbal infusion in skin care products, as a powerful cleaner, and skip the essential oil altogether.
Herbal Benefits of Lemon Balm
Lemon balm is used as a calming herb that soothes anxiety and helps to tone the nervous system. Not to be confused with herbs like chamomile and hops that help to promote sleep and rest, lemon balm is calming but also uplifting.
It helps to reduce anxiety and depression symptoms and lift spirits. Perhaps this is also how it helps its cold sores, which are caused by stress. It’s antiviral properties mean it also helps to prevent more cold sores from popping up.
Cold Sores (Ugh.)
Cold sores on the face are caused by the Herpes Simplex 1 virus (HSV-1). I got this delightful gift from my mom, and I try pretty darn hard not to pass it on to my kiddo. Cold sores are a real bumme; they hurt and itch, and it feelsl like you have a painful watermelon growing on your face for everyone in the whole world to see.
And they have the delightful habit of popping up when you are sick, on vacation, getting photos taken, or hosting an event. Which makes sense, because the virus lies dormant in our body until it is triggered by stress or a reduced immune system.
They are called cold sores because they usually accompany a lower immune system caused by the common cold, but for me, they’re actually more frequent in times of stress, both emotional and physical.
When I’m feeling stressed and run down, I’ll inevitably pop up a cold sore on my lip. Or if I go out into the sun without wearing sunscreen lip balm. Usually it’s after a period of no sun exposure, and then a sudden change to direct sun on my face like a sunny skiing day, a tropical winter vacation, or the beginning of the summer at home.
This is why I now always have a supply of lemon balm lip balm for cold sores when they show their ugly faces.
Harvesting Lemon Balm for Infused Oil
The best time to harvest lemon balm is before flowering. This is when most of the volatile oils are available in the leaves and stems. Pinching back the plant by a third will also increase its robustness and fullness.
You can happily harvest a bunch of fresh green lemon balm leaves from the top third of the plant and the rest of the plant will be quite happy and grow back denser and sturdier.
Be sure to only harvest and use healthy-looking green leaves. Any decay, brown spots or powdery mildew is not something that you want to add into infused oils. Add the cuttings into a salad spinner and rinse well with water. Then spin to remove all topical water.
Lay the lemon balm out on herb drying screen and allow it to wilt for 24 hours. Lemon balm doesn’t usually have any pests but if there are any, this will give them a chance to go find a new home. More importantly, it allows a lot of the water to release.
In most cases, I strongly recommend that herbs are dried prior to infusing them into oil because when water is introduced to an oil infusion, it can also introduce bacteria and mould growth.
In this case, lemon balm infusions are much more effective using the fresh leaves. Lemon balm studies have shown some antibacterial properties, and some sources report antifungal properties as well, both of which will help to keep the oil from growing bacteria and fungus.
Even so, if I’m using the fresh herbs I’m sure to make it in small batches and use it up quickly, within 4 to 6 weeks. Additionally, if you notice any discoloration, sediment, or indication of mould or fungus, discontinue use immediately.
Lemon Balm Lip Balm for Cold Sores
Because we are using the fresh herb I recommend using a heat infusion method, rather than cold infusion which will take 4 to 6 weeks and itself. See how to do the heat infusion in this post: Three Ways to Make Herbal Oils for Natural Beauty Recipes.
Melt the wax, over medium-low heat in a Turkish coffee pot, double boiler, or a small pot with a pour spout. Add the oils and butter when the wax is liquefied and melt all of the ingredients together.
Stir constantly and keep a watchful eye on the oils. You want them to just reach the melting point and not overheat.
Fill each tube halfway full and let cool slightly. This will set the bottom of the tube so that a hole doesn’t form in the top of the lip balm when cooled.
Before the tubes are starting to set, fill the rest of the way, so there is a convex curve on the top (be careful not to spill over the edges). When the lip balm cools, it will shrink so it should end up having a flat top. If you need to even out the top, a heat gun works really well.
FAQ About Lemon Balm Lip Balm
Is Vaseline lip balm good for cold sores?
A petroleum jelly lip balm like Vaseline can moisturize a cold sore and help ease the discomfort and pain that can come from it. However, it won’t actually heal the cold sore. Lemon balm has antiviral properties that can help prevent cold sores and the calming nature of the herb reduces the stress that causes them.
What could trigger a cold sore?
Most of the time, the virus (HSV-1) lies dormant until something triggers it. This can include stress, fatigue, being on your period, exposure to strong sunlight, an injury in the affected area, and having another infection.
Is it okay to put lip balm on cold sores?
Lip balm helps to keep the area moisturized and prevent the sore from drying out and cracking. But once you use a lip balm on a cold sore, it is contaminated. Dispose of the lip balm after the cold sore heals.
Lemon Balm Lip Balm
This lemon balm-infused lip balm is ideal for treating and preventing cold sores.
The perfect combination of sweet and spicy, ginger is a unique flavour that I just can’t get enough of. Whether you want to recreate the spiciness of ginger ale from your childhood or want freshly grated ginger for delicious curry, you can easily grow ginger in the garden or in the home. This guide covers everything you need to know about how to grow ginger so you can have an endless supply of the favoured spice.
Photo courtesy of Tasha Greer
One of the best things about sharing my love of gardening online is that I get to meet so many fellow gardeners! Over on Instagram, I met with the lovely Tasha Greer from Simplestead and we chatted over Instagram live about her book, Grow Your Own Spices. After the talk, I was completely obsessed with the idea of growing ginger!
I’m not a huge spice grower, instead opting to grow mostly herbs and other healing plants. But I invited Tasha to talk about ginger with me, and she gave me some great advice if you’re thinking of adding some spice to your garden.
This guide covers points and tips on how to grow ginger root directly from Tasha’s book. In it, she covers more than 30 different spices anyone can grow. Be sure to check out Grow Your Own Spices if you’re interested in growing tons of spices.
We all love it, but what is this funky, wrinkly thing we like to grate? Ginger, Zingiber officinale, is a plant grown mostly for its rhizome, although technically, the whole plant is edible.
Mostly used for culinary purposes, it has a spicy yet sweet taste. You can find it in curries, in baking like gingerbread, as a spicy zest to salad dressings, and in some very popular beverages.
Medicinal Properties of Ginger
Gingerols are the active components in the plant that give it a distinct spicy/sweet flavour. The components are also responsible for the anti-inflammatory properties and are even used to treat arthritis.
Medicinally, people know ginger best for easing an upset stomach. The virucidal properties aid in destroying viruses, making it a useful tool for your medicine cabinet,
“The most effective way to receive this medicine is through the use of its fresh juice,” says Tasha.
The easiest way to do this is to process the root with a juicer. Then, place the liquid in ice cube trays, and store it in the freezer to have an easily accessible antiviral remedy on hand. Add water, honey, and a squeeze of lemon to cut the spiciness as needed.
Remove the skin prior to using ginger.
How to Grow Ginger
Growing ginger differs a little differently than the average plant since we’re growing it from a rhizome rather than a seed. Here’s what you need to know!
Choosing a Rhizome
The easiest way to grow ginger is by taking a piece of rhizome from existing ginger to grow another. Sounds easy right? To get the best possible ginger harvest out there, the key is to select the right rhizome to get you started.
You probably would recognize ginger just by its touch. They are firm, knotty-looking rhizomes that have rough skin. Most of the ginger you find in the grocery store are Chinese cultivars. The flavour tends to be milder, and it will have a thicker skin to help with shelf life.
Technically, you can plant any ginger as long as it isn’t old or diseased. It’s worth noting that ginger purchased from the grocery store may have a growth inhibitor sprayed on it to stop it from sprouting early. Ideally, you want to source your ginger from an organic grower or your local farmer’s market.
Avoid any pieces that look shrivelled and dry. You want a plump piece of ginger with lots of eyes (growth buds). It should be 4-6 inches long with multiple arms.
Here’s Tasha’s advice for choosing a rhizome:
“Mature rhizomes that have been through natural senescence will produce the best yields. Senescence typically happens in fall after plants have had a long growing season.” Senescence is the life stage in which a plant’s metabolism slows before it dies.
Baby ginger rhizome. Photo courtesy of Tasha Greer
Planting
Most gardeners choose to start their ginger indoors and then transplant it outside as it warms up. Once you have your rhizome, pay attention to where the eyes are. If you have post-senescence ginger ready to go without eyes, store it in a warm location until the eyes appear.
Cut the ginger into pieces approximately 1 to 1 ½ inch wide. Each of the pieces will need an eye. Once cut, let it sit for 1-2 days until a slight crust has formed.
When planting, fill a pot with good quality potting soil until it is 2 inches from the top. Add in some slow-release fertilizer and place your rhizome in it approximately 1 inch deep,healthy eyes facing upwards.
Top off with some compost. Space any rhizomes 12 inches apart. It will grow up to 4 feet tall, so be sure to accommodate this type of growth.
Water the plant well and keep moist until shoots have emerged. This takes anywhere from 1 week to 1 month. Ginger prefers filtered light, not direct light. Under a tree where it will receive dappled light is a great spot to have it.
The plant can only survive when there is no frost. It can be planted in early spring after the danger of frost has passed or any time of year if you live in a warmer zone. A tropical plant, ginger likes heat and humidity. It will grow best in temperatures above 65°F or 18°C.
Tasha’s advice? Here’s what she has to say!
“When growing in the ground, periodically hill the soil from the outer edges of your rows around the root area to encourage the rhizomes to plump. Stop fertilizing if plants flower.”
Start your ginger in containers. Photo courtesy of Tasha Greer
How to Grow Ginger Indoors
You can easily grow ginger indoors, too! All you need is your leftover scrap or cut piece of ginger to get it started. Soak the rhizome overnight just in case it has a growth inhibitor, especially if you sourced it from a market.
In a pot, follow the same planting instructions as above. The pot needs to be large enough to accommodate the size of the rhizomes as they grow.It should also drain well, as ginger is prone to root rot if it sits in soggy soil.
When planting, only place one piece of ginger in each pot. Let it sit in indirect light in a warm part of the house. Watch and wait!
How to Harvest Ginger
Remember senescence? This is when the plant begins to slow down before it dies. The leaves will start to turn yellow and brown. This usually occurs when the plant gets less sunlight, and it cools down, signalling the ginger to grow more rhizomes to begin to store energy for the colder season. This is also when the rhizomes grow their protective skin. And you guessed it…it’s when we’re ready to harvest!
Ginger takes some time to grow. Baby ginger can be harvested after 6-8 months. You want to harvest the ginger before it reaches senescence. Mature ginger, on the other hand, takes more than 10 months and you want to harvest after senescence has occurred. Be sure to save the best rhizome (fat and healthy-looking) to use for future planting.
Tasha says you can also trick the ginger into an early harvest. “To initiate premature senescence, cut the top few inches of leaves to reduce photosynthesis. Then harvest in 2–3 weeks.”
When harvesting, you can dig out and use the whole rhizome. Alternatively, you can cut away a piece of the rhizome if the plant is still growing. In this case, cut a piece that is at least 2 inches from the stock. The rest of the plant will continue to grow.
Now that you know how to grow ginger at home and harvest it, it’s time to enjoy it. Be sure to check out my recipe for homemade ginger ale. It tastes so much better than the canned stuff!
FAQ About Growing Ginger Plants
Where does ginger come from?
Interestingly enough, we have no idea where ginger originally comes from. According to Tasha, “It’s considered a cultigen, or a plant that exists as a result of human cultivation. We don’t know its origin or when humans started using it. We only know that it would not exist without us.”
How long does it take to grow ginger?
Mature ginger takes about ten months to harvest after planting. You can have baby ginger after 6-8 months.
Can you grow ginger from a piece of ginger?
Yes, and this is the fastest way to do it. Choose a plump and healthy looking rhizome to start. Cut it up into pieces that are about 1 to 1 ½ inches big. Make sure each piece has an eye (the little growth bumps). Let it sit for 1-2 days until a slight crust has formed, then it’s ready to be planted.
These fall planter ideas will have your home looking festive for the autumn. Whether you are a seasoned gardener or a first-time planter, the simple tips and tricks in this post will help your container gardens thrive this season.
As the season starts to change from the hot, long days of summer to the cooler, shorter days of fall, you may be wondering what to do with your container gardens or how to start one.
Containers are the perfect way to garden in a small space like a patio or a deck. But containers also make for great features in large gardens too.
Either way, containers draw the eye. One of the most fun months to enjoy container gardening is in the fall. That being said, they need some care and maintenance to keep them thriving as temperatures begin to drop.
Near the end of the summer, the plants will start to look a bit tired. They’ve worked hard to grow in a confined space, and it’s time for a little care.
Here are some tips for how to refresh your container gardens and transition them for the next season with these fall planter ideas.
Fresh flowers for my fall planters! Ozzie loves a trip to the garden centre too.
First: Fall Maintenance Must-Dos
Whether you’re growing vegetables or flowers in your containers, fall is a great time to clean up the container and prepare it for winter. Here are a few things you can do.
Cut back any of the 4D’s: dead, diseased, damaged, or dying plant material and discard it.
Harvest any vegetables that are ready to be harvested for fresh eating or preserving.
Deadhead any blooms to encourage new blooms and extend flowering time.
Allow flowers and vegetables to go to seed so you can collect and save seed for next year.
Remove any overgrown perennials, shrubs, or trees, and plant them in the garden or a larger pot.
Once you’ve cleaned up the existing container, you can refresh it with new plants.
Annual Container Garden Maintenance
When the plants are finished fruiting, flowering, or producing seeds, and you have harvested all that you need, remove all the remaining plant material from the pot. Use a soil knife to loosen up the soil around the roots and remove the plants and root balls from the soil.
If the plant has become root bound and the entire pot comes up in a net of roots, you can toss the whole thing in the compost bin. If the roots do not extend throughout the entire pot, then shake off the soil into a large bucket or a wheelbarrow.
Terracotta pots can crack in the winter if not stored properly in the fall.
Perennial Container Garden Maintenance
If you live in a cold area, the only containers that should be left out over the winter are those that are cold-hardy and meant to weather the temperature drop in your area. Of course, the same is true of the plants in the containers. But if you’ve chosen the pots and perennials that will successfully overwinter in your climate, fall is a great time for some routine maintenance on all of them.
Prune trees and shrubs according to the four D’s as well as size and shape, as can be seen in these guides:
You can also divide and transplant any perennials that are growing too large for their container. See how to divide perennials here.
Precious or more tender plants may need to be moved into an unheated garage or indoors for the winter. I overwinter all of my hardy winter succulents in unglazed terracotta pots under a deck or under an outdoor bench.
Rudbeckia flowers are great perennials that last from summer to fall.
Tree and Shrub Container Garden Maintenance
Trees and shrubs in containers are more vulnerable to frost damage than those in the ground because the containers have less soil mass, and the roots are less insulated. For smaller pots or more tender perennials, trees, and shrubs, move the containers to a warmer, more protected spot in the garden under a deck or covered area that keeps snow and frost off of the pot and plants.
Large planters or trees that cannot be moved can be insulated using burlap or chicken wire and straw. The book Container Garden Complete by Jessica Walliser has a great section in chapter 5 on the details of how to overwinter both tender and hardy plants which I refer to often.
You may need to move your potted trees and shrubs into a more protected part of the garden.
Fall Container Soil Mix Recipe
At the end of the season, it’s a good time to freshen up your soil. If there were no signs of disease or pests on the plants or in the soil, the soil can be reused by mixing it in equal amounts withcompost and soil mix.
If you prefer to make your own container garden soil, you can find my DIY container soil recipe here.
Fall Planter Ideas
There are so many fun ways you can plant containers for each season. But, there’s something about fall that seems extra fun! Here are some of my favourite fall planter ideas that will look lovely on any porch.
Colourful Fall Foliage Planter
This pretty fall planter idea showcases all those lovely colours of the season. For many of my fall planters, I go shopping for some fresh annual plant material such as mums and pansies that are more hardy for the fall.
I leave behind (or add new) perennials with vibrant foliage colour like Heuchera, Euonymous, Sedum and Gaultheria. Don’t forget to refresh the soil with 1 part compost and 1 part soil mix.
Warm oranges and reds are great fall foliage colours.
Planted Pumpkin
It doesn’t get more fall than this! This container garden idea uses a pumpkin as the planter and adds season-appropriate mums to the mix.
Mix 1 part of your existing soil with one part fresh soil and add in fall-themed plants for the holidays. At the end of the holiday season, when the pumpkin starts to decompose, remove any perennials. Then, simply discard the whole planter—soil, pumpkin, and spent plants—into the compost bin.
Spring Bulbs in Pots
Believe it or not, but getting your spring containers ready starts in the fall. Especially if you have a bulb plant that needs to have a winter’s chill.
Plan for a gorgeous spring display by loading layers of spring bulbs into a container filled with fresh soil. Layer and plant bulbs so that you get a continuous display of gorgeous flowers throughout the spring (see how to do that in this post).
Make a soil mix that is light and airy to keep the bulbs insulated through the colder months.
Hardy bulbs that need a winter’s chill can be planted in a pot. Then, the pot can be moved to an unheated garage, under a deck, or wrapped with insulation to keep the container and bulbs chilled but not freezing. In the spring when the soil warms up, move the container into place. Then enjoy watching how fast you get to see the show.
In areas where winters are mild, the container can be left in place. I like to use a winter arrangement decorating the soil above the bulbs.
You’ll be happy you put in the work when the bulbs emerge in the spring.
Outdoor Holiday Arrangement
Similarly, if you want to have holiday container gardens, fall is the perfect time to start planning for them.
These displays need no special soil as the plants used are cut branches and leaves used. This outdoor botanical arrangement that will be discarded in the spring. No additional soil or fertilizer is needed as the old potting soil can be used to hold the arrangement in place.
Simply add in cut evergreen branches along with decorative cones and seed heads to make a festive display to last until spring.
FAQ About Fall Planters
What to put in a planter for fall?
There are many annuals that perform well in the fall and even into the winter in mild areas. These include calendula, pansies, mums, celosia, coleus, nasturtium, ornamental kale, snapdragons, sunflowers, and sweet William.
Some fall perennials include rudbeckia (black-eyed Susan), echinacea (coneflower), stonecrop, Russian sage, rose mallow, Japanese anemone, and aster.
How do you transition to fall planters?
Start off by seeing what you can salvage from your existing containers. Trim back any dead, overgrown, or already flowered/gone to seed plant material. Remove any plants that have finished flowering entirely.
Next, add some fresh plant materials. Head to the garden centre and look for fall annuals and perennials—they should be on display and advertised this time of year. Use them to fill in the gaps, and eventually, they will take over as the focal point for the container as the summer flowers begin to die.
Do I have to change the soil in my planters every year?
Most plants need to be repotted every 12 months, so it’s a good idea to refresh your container’s soil. I toss anything covered in roots into the compost. If there is still loose soil, I mix in compost and new soil the following spring to freshen up the soil for the next round of plants.
Coral Bells ‘Peachberry Ice’ and Rudbeckia ‘August Forest’
What do your fall containers look like this year? Let us know in the comments below!
