Tag: Month April Week 1

Do I Need to Buy Organic Plants and Seedlings?

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So many people are picking up organic gardening (yay!), but finding organic plants can become tricky. Organic plants must undergo a rigorous certification process, making them harder to find. But here’s why you may not actually need to buy organic seedlings.

I’m a proud organic gardener, as well as a regenerative one. I’ve always shied away from adding harsh and synthetic chemicals to my garden, instead trying other maintenance methods to keep them out.

Recently, a friend of mine who is a beginner gardener asked me if he needed to buy organic seedlings.

Which is a great question! I immediately asked him why he wanted them to be organic, as your reasoning is a big factor. It’s harder to grow organically, and beginner gardeners will definitely struggle with pest, fungal, and growth issues at first.

Today, I’m answering his question and giving you the low down on what makes a plant organic…and why you may not actually need to buy organic seedlings.

Like this basil, it’s very important to me that all my edible plants are grown organically in my garden as I consume them.

What Makes a Plant Organic?

Many gardeners are leaning into organic gardening, trying to make their gardens healthier for their local ecosystem. Organic gardening naturally supports and maintains soil and plants without using synthetic pesticides, herbicides, and fertilizers.

Organic methods utilize other methods to help combat common issues that affect plants. For instance, to maintain good soil, you might rotate your crops, use compost and green manure, and allow certain weeds to grow.

For organic growers and nurseries, organic applies to more than just growing. It also involves how they handle, package, and transport their organic plants.

To be certified organic, growers must adhere to a strict set of standards that include using organic practices on their land for more than three years, detailed record keeping, regular inspections and audits, and more.

It’s a lot of work to be a certified organic grower!

If your plant is edible but not grown organically, you should consume only the new growth after it is planted in your garden.

The Reality of Organic Plants

If you want organic plants in your garden, they must be from a certified organic grower. It may be difficult to find an organic nursery near you.

Many steps along the way may prevent seedlings from being organic, such as the farm not being certified even if they didn’t use any synthetic products or the whole truck being sprayed with a fungicide in transport to ensure that nothing arrives at the garden centre with the disease.

It can even depend on what type of soil mix was used. These synthetic products can last a long time in the soil and can find their way into many potting mixes.

The seedlings at the West Coast Seeds were organic, as you can see below.

Do You Need to Buy Organic Plants as an Organic Gardener?

I’ll let you in on a little secret…I don’t always buy organic plants. While I love supporting organic growers whenever I can, I don’t make a big fuss about ensuring every plant I own is certified organic.

When you buy the little pot and seedlings from the garden centre, don’t worry too much about whether they are organic. As soon as you put it in your garden, the soil will act as an amazing biofilter. The non-organic elements will filter into the soil quite quickly.

I wait for a new growth cycle for vegetables, edible flowers, and herbs before I harvest anything. Once those initial leaves have fallen off and your plant grows new leaves and flowers, it will be pretty darn close to organic.

If you really want organic seedlings, I suggest you grow them from your own seeds. This is singlehandedly the best way to know exactly what goes into the production of your seedlings.

Soil is a powerful biofilter that does an amazing job of cycling out pesticides and herbicides from our plants.

Frequently Asked Questions About Growing Organically

What is the best organic fertilizer for plants?

Compost is garden gold, especially if you make it yourself. It does so many amazing things for the garden, including providing nutrients for your plants, building up organic matter in your soil, improving soil water retention, reducing erosion, moderating soil temperature, and more.

You can also create your own organic fertilizers, customizing them based on what your plants need. My book Garden Alchemy has a full chapter of recipes dedicated to fertilizers.

What organic fungicide for plants can I use?

I find that prevention is the best way to prevent fungal growth. Fungi thrive in moist, wet conditions. You want to ensure that you properly space out your plants so they have enough air circulation and don’t overwater them.

Damping off is very common for seedlings, and I make a chamomile fungicide spray to help combat it.

What are some organic pesticides for plants?

There are so many ways to tackle pests in the garden organically, and I find the best way to do it is to ask why they are there in the first place. Then, you’ll want to do everything you can to change the conditions so the pests don’t find your plants welcoming anymore. A couple of common pest control methods are companion planting and inviting beneficial insects.

If needed, I make my own pest control spray to apply to plants that need immediate help and attention.

Let me know if you have any more questions about growing organic plants and seedlings in the comments below.

More Tips for Growing Organically

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Stephanie Rose

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May 22, 2024
Nothing Grows in My Yard. What Can I Do? – Garden Therapy
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Space is the number one thing gardeners want more of. But what happens when you have the space, but nothing grows in it? Front yards are notoriously difficult to grow in for urban areas, and there are actually quite a few reasons why your garden or yard may be struggling. But not all hope is lost!

Not so long ago, I received this question and photo from a reader…

“I live in Houston, Texas, in a subdivision. We have two large oak trees in the front yard that we trim every spring. But my front flower bed will not grow anything!! We cut the tree limbs back further to help let In sunlight. Still, nothing grows. We have removed all the soil and planted new things several times. I even left roses in the pots ( I gave up and moved them to the backyard, and they are beautiful now). What can I do??”

This is such a frustrating experience that is, unfortunately, way too common. Many people struggle to get their yards to support the growth of plants, especially those in the front.

If your house faces similar issues, not all hope is lost. Read on to see why your yard might have issues growing plants and what you can do about it.

Don’t let this discourage you from growing large trees! This dogwood tree was very beloved to me in my old garden.

Caught Before It’s Too Late

Back when I was house hunting, I found a really lovely house for sale in my neighbourhood. At first, it ticked off all the boxes. It had these beautiful old-growth trees on the front street, a nice little backyard, and a great interior layout.

But then I looked at the soil, and my heart sank. I knew nothing was going to grow there.

I couldn’t tell you exactly why that is, as I don’t carry a soil test kit wherever I go, but I suspected that those old-growth trees were causing a bigger issue for surrounding vegetation.

Sure enough, I looked at all the houses on the street, and none had gardens. While someone might be able to do raised beds and containers, that isn’t my preferred way of gardening. I wanted a place where I could landscape entirely.

And so, as a gardener, I couldn’t imagine myself living there anymore despite it being a lovely house.

While we all wish our front yards could look like this, it helps to work with what you have rather than against it.

The Problem With Large Street Trees

The old growth trees were a big indicator for me. Of course, they provide plenty of shade which can make it difficult for some plants to grow underneath.

They also have extensive root systems. When you look up at the tree, think about how the root system will be equally as big—oftentimes even larger.

That’s an oldie. A tree of such a large size will need to gather lots of nutrients and water from the surrounding soil to feed the entire tree. This makes it really, really hard for smaller plants to compete with a giant like that.

In some cases, turf grasses can’t even grow. You’ll end up with moss and lichen as companion plants, as they grow well with trees.

So you’re left with a front yard that struggles to grow anything.

At my previous rental house, we had very large oak trees, which made it difficult to plant under. But I persisted, which you can read about here.

Allelopathic Trees That Produce Chemicals

Some trees are even bigger bullies (or geniuses—however you look at it). These trees produce chemicals that will prevent other plants from growing. They don’t want to compete with other trees, so this can really prevent growth in small urban areas. They’re known as allelopathic.

For instance, black walnut trees (Juglans nigra) and butternut (Juglans cinerea) produce a compound known as Juglone. It prevents plants from germinating and causes plants to look wilted.

Allelopathic plants release these chemicals through their roots or as they decompose. These chemicals can affect a plant’s ability to germinate, develop roots, or take in nutrients. Some plants are sensitive to these chemicals, while others might not be affected at all.

Here are some more allelopathic trees and shrubs to be on the lookout for:
- Bearberry
- Elderberry
- English laurel
- Forsythia
- Junipers
- Rhododendron
- Sugar maple
- Sumac
It should be noted that most large trees are allelopathic in some sense, as they take in so much water to stop other plants from competing.

Research if any of the larger trees or shrubs in your yard can affect other nearby plants.

So, You’ve Got Soil Issues

Beyond large trees, it’s also important to look at the soil. In my previous house, there was so much debris in the soil that was left behind by builders who knows how long ago. It took me years to get rid of it all and rebuild the soil into something rich and grow-worthy.

You also will want to know what type of soil you have. Is it overly clay and compact? Is it gritty and dries out quickly? Is it soggy nearly all the time? Good soil needs to be able to both retain water while still having good air circulation for the roots.

I highly recommend you do a soil test to determine your soil’s pH. Adding organic amendments is the best way to turn bad soil into good soil, but it takes a lot of work and patience.

Toxic Substances

It could also be likely that someone has dumped something toxic into the area, such as herbicides. These are very toxic substances that will kill anything, not just weeds. It can have long-lasting residual effects long after the substance is used.

Pollution

If you live on a busy street, pollution could also be a very real issue. Pollution directly harms plants, entering through the stomata of the leaves and injuring them. It also settles in the soil, making it quite acidic and making it difficult for plants to take in nutrients.

Animals

There could be animals living underground that are also an issue, such as moles or voles. These animals might eat the vegetation or roots or damage them simply by habiting the area.

Compost is garden gold and the best way to fix poor soil.

What to Do if Nothing Grows in Your Garden

Let’s get down to what you can actually do about the problem! If you want to fix it immediately, your best bet is to use raised beds.

By bringing the soil up or working in containers, you’ll create your own little ecosystem, which can help solve some of the other issues. Be mindful that if the issue is tree roots, they can grow up into them. Trees will always strive to find nutritious soil and well-watered areas!

If the issue is soil, it will take a lot of time and patience to turn it into something grow-worthy. You’ll need to aerate the soil, continually add layers of organic matter to build it up, and bring in cover crops to help fix it. Weeds are great for turning bad soil into good soil!

Acceptance

What many people don’t want to hear is that maybe you need to take a different approach to your garden. If you want a very landscaped garden, you might have to accept the fact that garden beds with perennials, vegetables, or fruits may not be in the plan.

Instead, treat the area like it’s a concrete slab where nothing grows. Opt for a rock garden with hints of potted flowers or a lovely patio.

You can add some nice flagstone, put some moss in between, perhaps put in a fountain, and add some furniture to create a welcome space.

You can accept that you have this big, beautiful tree and get to work with it rather than fight with it. An outdoor space you can enjoy is still very much possible!

This was my old front yard, which was very shady and grew little. So I embraced it with a fountain and sitting space!

More Tips for Front Yard Gardening
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Stephanie Rose

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April 17, 2024
Make This Simple Rhubarb Leaf Concrete Bird Bath – Garden Therapy
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Adding a bird bath is one of the best ways to increase the number of songbirds and wildlife in your garden. When set on the ground, birds use it for drinking, bathing, and cooling down. Here’s how to make your own DIY concrete bird bath using a rhubarb leaf!

The first time I tasted a tart rhubarb stalk dipped in sugar, I was hooked! The flavour is surprisingly complex for a stem, and when matched with something sweet, it’s a little slice of heaven.

The leaves, on the other hand, are not so tasty (which is good since they are toxic), but it’s such a pity that this prolific plant doesn’t have more culinary uses.

This DIY concrete bird bath is my attempt to get a little more out of my rhubarb plants. The ruffled and very large leaves make a wonderful mould for a bird bath. Once cast in concrete, these rhubarb leaves will live on forever and supply garden birds with a watering hole.

Here’s how you can make your own concrete leaf bird bath!

This is an easy weekend project.

Harvesting Rhubarb

To start this project, you’ll need some big, juicy leaves. We also want to make sure we’re not harming the rhubarb when we pick the leaves.

Let a new plant grow for two years before harvesting any stocks, and only take one-third of the plant in year three and beyond. After that, you can harvest the plant pretty heavily, leaving the smaller stalks behind after six to eight weeks of pulling off stems for pie and bird baths.

Follow the steps in this post to harvest rhubarb properly (you’ll twist, not snip).

For this rhubarb leaf bird bath, choose a firm leaf with a strong shape (if you can find any without holes, then congratulations, you have won the slug war!).

It’s best to start this project at the beginning of the season when the leaves are strongest and less chewed. A few nibbles or holes are expected in an organic garden and won’t take away from the final project.

Choose your leaf carefully, and try to use it fresh for your mould.

How to Make a Concrete Leaf Bird Bath

If you’ve never worked with concrete before, this is a great first project to try out. It’s simple but creates a beautiful result that you can display in your garden while helping the local birds.

Materials
- Large rhubarb leaf
- Rubber gloves, protective glasses, and a mask
- Repair concrete (see note)*
- Wheelbarrow or large bucket
- Water source (hose, watering can)
- Old trowel
- Plastic drop cloth
- Vegetable oil or cooking spray
- Stiff bristle brush
- Chisel and hammer (optional)
*Choose a lightweight concrete mix (less gravel) for a smoother finished product. Or, choose a heavier-weight concrete mix (more gravel) if the stones will be in high-traffic areas. The best concrete for small, decorative projects is repair concrete, which has no large pieces of gravel in it.

The bowl doesn’t need to be too deep to be effective for the birds.

Make It!

Wear protective gloves, glasses, and a mask, and mix the concrete according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

While the measurements and mixing instructions will be on the package, in general, you will want a large container to mix a whole bag at once. An old wheelbarrow is ideal as the height makes mixing a bit easier.

First, add the concrete to the container, then pour the recommended measure of water into the center. Stir thoroughly and use immediately. The consistency should be on the drier, firmer side. Add more dry mix if it is too runny.

You can also use a bucket for mixing.

Build a firm mound in the soil in the shape you want your bird bath to take.

Your mound will determine the shape of your bowl.

Lay the plastic drop cloth over the mound and place the leaf, vein-side up, on it.

Make sure the leaf’s vein is facing upwards to get the best imprint.

Spray the back of the leaf thoroughly with cooking spray or brush with oil.

Any vegetable oil will work for this.

Pile the concrete onto the leaf and pat it all around to compress the concrete and remove air bubbles. Spread the concrete to just 1/2″ from the edge of the leaf and gently round the extra 1/2″ of the leaf over the edge of the concrete. This will give the edges a more refined look.

Use your gloves to smooth out the edges for a more refined look.

Wrap the concrete in plastic and allow it to dry for 12 hours if the outside temperature is hot and dry or 24 hours if it is cooler and more humid.

Avoid doing this project if rain is in the forecast.

Gently peel off the leaf before the concrete is set, being mindful that it can easily break or crack at this stage. Generally, it’s preferable to wait until the concrete is completely dry to unmold it, but often, this leaves more plant material behind in the crevices.

Allow the concrete to cure completely according to the package instructions, then use a stiff bristle brush to scrub off any remaining plant material. You may also use a chisel and hammer to remove any concrete that has escaped the confines of the leaf, leaving the bird bath in a finished but still natural shape.

Set the concrete bird bath upright in the garden, on a raised wood stump or atop some overturned clay pots.

Leaving it closer to the ground will also allow other local wildlife to use the bird bath.

Caring for Your Concrete Bird Bath

Your concrete bird bath will handle the sun, the rain, and anything the warm weather can throw its way. But once the cold creeps in, you might want to retire your bird bath for the year.

Concrete is a porous material that is prone to cracking and chipping if not properly maintained. You can’t let water freeze in it, as this will cause small cracks.

Before the winter, drain it and bring it indoors where it is dry. Alternatively, you can drain it and cover it with something like a tarp until the springtime.

Frequently Asked Questions About Concrete Bird Baths

Is concrete safe for bird baths?

Concrete is safe for birds and one of the most effective ways to make a bird bath. The leaf imprint keeps them beautiful as well as functional for the birds.

Many bird baths you buy have been glazed for appearance and to make them easier to clean. But birds don’t like the glazing, finding it slippery and uncomfortable while trying to use the water.

Can you fix a broken concrete bird bath?

If your DIY concrete bird bath becomes cracked, you can resurface it. To do this, you will spread a layer of new concrete atop the old one, ensuring it’s moist and clean before applying the new layer of concrete. Apply the layer of concrete, then use a new leaf or two to get a new imprint.

Make a Bird-Friendly Backyard
Rhubarb Leaf Concrete Bird Bath

Attract more songbirds to your garden with this easy weekend project.

Safety gear (rubber gloves, face mask, apron, eye protection, etc.)

Wheelbarrow or large bucket

Water source

Old trowel

Plastic drop cloth

Stiff bristle brush

Chisel and hammer (optional)

Large rhubarb leaf

Repair concrete *see note

Vegetable oil or cooking spray

Put on protective gloves, glasses, and a mask. Mix the concrete according to the package instructions. The consistency should be on the drier, firmer side.

In your garden bed, build a dirt mound in the shape you want your bird bath to take.

Lay a plastic sheet overtop and place your rhubarb leaf on the plastic with the leaf vein facing up.

Spray the leaf with cooking spray or brush with oil.

Add a layer of concrete onto the leaf, gently patting it to remove air bubbles and to take its shape. Spread until you’re ½” away from the leaf’s edge, then gently round the edge of the leaf over the concrete to give the edges a refined look.

Wrap the concrete in plastic and allow it to dry for 12 hours if hot or 24 hours if it’s cooler outside.

Gently peel the leaf off the concrete before it’s fully dry.

Let the concrete cure fully according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

Use a stiff brush to scrub off any remaining plant materials.

Set your bird bath out in the garden!

For a smoother finish use lightweight concrete mix. For high-traffic areas, use heavier-weight concrete. Repair concrete is great for small, decorative projects.
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Stephanie Rose

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April 15, 2024