Tag: master gardener

Q. How do I start and maintain a compost pile/bin? Is there a certain type of composter you recommend? 

I love composting because it’s a way you can take something that would normally be waste and turn it into something very useful.

If you have a yard, even a small one, you can set up and maintain a compost bin. The simplest setup would just be a big pile or a few smaller piles. The major drawback to the pile method is that you may get some unwelcome visitors if you’re not careful. Rats, mice, raccoons, skunks, and opossums will find an open compost pile irresistible, especially if there are any food scraps present. I would only try this method of composting if you live on a large property and can locate it far away from any buildings.

There are several commercially available compost bins that are designed to be rodent-proof. An enclosed compost tumbler is effective at excluding pests and containing odors. In some municipalities, this is the only type of compost bin allowed. Look for one that is sturdy enough not to sag or warp and does not have metal parts that come into contact with the composting material, since they will rust and break eventually.

The stacking-type composters are convenient and make turning the pile easy. Sadly, these are difficult to find.

When starting a compost pile, add several inches of brown material before introducing green material. Brown material is carbon-rich and includes sawdust, shredded paper, dried plant material, hay, straw, and any kind of dry bedding. Green material is nitrogen-rich and includes kitchen scraps, coffee grounds, fresh grass clippings, green yard waste, freshly pulled weeds, and manure (cow, chicken, rabbit, or horse). Try to alternate layers of brown and green since you want to avoid accumulating a large mass of solid green material. Since green material tends to be higher in water content, it tends to mat and form dense pockets. Too much moisture and/or green material will encourage the growth of anaerobic bacteria, which will produce a foul smell.

If there is too much brown material and/or not enough moisture, there won’t be enough microbial activity to break everything down. In hot weather a compost pile can dry out quickly, so you may have to water it to get things going. Ideally, compost should feel like a well squeezed-out sponge – not too wet and not too dry.

Turning the pile, either by using a fork or rotating the drum on a tumbler-type bin, aerates and mixes the material so beneficial bacteria can thrive. After turning and watering, the compost should increase in temperature as the microbes become more active. Our compost will usually reach 160 degrees F, then eventually cool off as it matures. Finished compost should smell earthy.

If you have very little space, you could simply bury kitchen scraps in the garden and they will break down within a week or two.

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Los Angeles County

mglosangeleshelpline@ucdavis.edu; 626-586-1988; http://celosangeles.ucanr.edu/UC_Master_Gardener_Program/

Orange County

ucceocmghotline@ucanr.edu; http://mgorange.ucanr.edu/

Riverside County

anrmgriverside@ucanr.edu; https://ucanr.edu/sites/RiversideMG/

San Bernardino County

mgsanbern@ucanr.edu; 909-387-2182; http://mgsb.ucanr.edu

Q: We have an avocado tree that is more than 20 years old and over 20 feet tall. It gets sun mid-afternoon to sundown. The tree is located in between a grass lawn & an in-ground swimming pool. We have hundreds of medium to large (very delicious) avocados every year. The leaves are dry at the tip and have always been that way. However, this year the leaves have a strange color & weird “pattern.” I have attached pictures. What could this be?  Is it possible the roots have created a crack in the pool & the chlorine is leaking?   

One of your photos shows brown leaf tips, which indicates possible salt exposure. This could be due to our naturally dreadful soil, irrigation with hard water, or possibly exposure to water from the swimming pool. 

The second photo shows leaves that are blotchy with yellowing between the leaf veins. The veins also appear to be reddish-brown in color. This may be due to soil or water conditions but could also be caused by mites or thrips. Look at the undersides of the affected leaves. Is there any webbing or dull residue? Use a magnifying glass and look for any tiny critters. Avocados are susceptible to several species of mites and thrips, but these are difficult to see without magnification. If there are mites or thrips present, they can be controlled by removing any stressors (irregular watering during hot weather) and washing any dust off the leaves. Don’t use broad-spectrum insecticides or miticides since this will kill off any predatory insects that can control the mite population naturally. If your tree is still producing good fruit, this may be caused by a minor mite infestation.

Q: A couple of years ago, you gave a remedy for getting rid of skunk smell. Could you reprint that since my dog has had a couple of close calls and I want to be prepared.

Healthy skunks are mellow creatures. I once approached one, thinking it was a neighborhood cat, and almost touched it before realizing it was a skunk (it was dark, and I was really tired). They will only spray if threatened, and will give ample warning by stamping its feet, turning its back to you, hissing and raising its tail. Most dogs, being social doofuses, will ignore all of these warnings and proceed to either try to play with or chase this interesting striped creature.

Of course, this is most likely to happen at night well after the pet supply stores have closed. Here’s the recipe for skunk scent neutralizer that can be made with common household ingredients.

1 quart 3% hydrogen peroxide

¼ cup baking soda

1 teaspoon (or more) liquid soap

Once the hydrogen peroxide is mixed with baking soda, it will fizz quite vigorously. Apply immediately to the dog and massage it into the fur. Take care to avoid eye contact. Rinse thoroughly and hope that your dog will remember not to mess with skunks again. Don’t save any leftover solution since it loses effectiveness quickly.

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Los Angeles County

mglosangeleshelpline@ucdavis.edu; 626-586-1988; http://celosangeles.ucanr.edu/UC_Master_Gardener_Program/

Orange County

ucceocmghotline@ucanr.edu; http://mgorange.ucanr.edu/

Riverside County

anrmgriverside@ucanr.edu; https://ucanr.edu/sites/RiversideMG/

San Bernardino County

mgsanbern@ucanr.edu; 909-387-2182; http://mgsb.ucanr.edu