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Tag: Low Impact Living

  • Maranatha Farm in Somsert Hills, NJ: Michele Logan’s Permaculture-Based Farm

    Maranatha Farm in Somsert Hills, NJ: Michele Logan’s Permaculture-Based Farm

    This is part of a series with Perfect Earth Project, a nonprofit dedicated to toxic-free, nature-based gardening, on how you can be more sustainable in your landscapes at home.

    “It really felt like the land called us here,” says Michele Logan of Maranatha, her 73-acre farm in the Somerset Hills of New Jersey that practices and models conservation and stewardship, permaculture, regenerative agroforestry, and water management. From an early age, Logan had a passion for food and nature. “I still remember my grandmother, who had a hobby farm and was an amazing cook, giving me a goose’s egg when I was 10 years old,” she says. “She inspired my love for food and growing food.” The business executive acquired the property in 2015, during a time of personal struggle. She had developed an autoimmune issue, exacerbated by certain foods. Her mother and sister were ill. Healing was needed all around her, and the land seemed to hold a key to that process.

    Conventionally farmed for decades, the property was blanketed with invasive species, both accidental and deliberate, such as the Norway maple trees and privet that had been planted as part of the landscaping years back. The farm, situated on a ridge above the north branch of the Raritan River, also suffered from extensive water and soil erosion, and  it had been treated with chemicals. “Conventional practices turn soil into dirt,” says Christina Chrobokowa, the ecological landscape designer and founder of 360 Earthworks, who Logan hired to help restore the land. The two of them brought in Johann Rinkens, a farmer and ecological designer, of Fields without Fences, who began applying permaculture ethics and principles to the restoration project (“care for the planet, care for people, redistribution of surplus or fair share,” are Rinkens’s basic tenets). “It’s a journey,” says Chrobokowa. “You need to read the land, follow the subtle cues, and take a long view.”

    Photography courtesy of Maranatha Farm, unless otherwise noted.

    Above: “I love multi-purpose,” says Logan. “I’m always asking, how do we grow plants that look beautiful and are also edible or serve a purpose like holding the earth and slowing down water.” This overhead view of Maranatha Farm shows the utility barn and Giving Garden North, as well as permaculture terraces and orchard. Photograph by North Jersey Drone Shots.

     “We let the land lead the design of the farm,” says Logan. To reduce erosion, the team terraced the property, creating an access road to “mitigate and manage the run-off that’s coming down the slope and actually keep it higher in the landscape,” says Rinkens. They also constructed brush dams in gullies and built swales and berms to direct and slow the water. One of the principles of permaculture is to catch and store energy. In addition to solar panels, the team is catching and storing water by “slowing it down, spreading it out through the landscape, and letting it sink in,” says Rinkens. They moved stones from a fallen wall in a fallow pasture to design dry creek beds to channel the water that’s coming from the ridge above the farm into a spillway that’s designed for what Logan calls the “100-year storm.”

    “Water management and the topography led our farm design. Our farm access terrace was engineered with a 10 percent pitch towards a channel along the length of the road leading to the spillway that has a French mattress  to allow stormwater to perk back into the Earth. A detention basin below the spillway further slows water as it heads downslope,” says Logan.
    Above: “Water management and the topography led our farm design. Our farm access terrace was engineered with a 10 percent pitch towards a channel along the length of the road leading to the spillway that has a French mattress [a structure built under the road that lets water pass freely through] to allow stormwater to perk back into the Earth. A detention basin below the spillway further slows water as it heads downslope,” says Logan.

    To promote ecological diversity (another permaculture principle: integrate rather than segregate), they created silvopastures—managed woodlands integrated with trees and herbaceous plants for animals (in this case sheep and chickens) to graze and forage. The trees also offer shade for the animals, which is especially important as the days get hotter. “Providing relief from heat lowers stress levels [in livestock] and makes them more productive,” says Rinkens. In addition, the team worked on a custom seed blend that included native grasses and wildflowers, with attention to varieties palatable to sheep. Voracious eaters, the sheep help control the spread of invasives around the property, while their manure fertilizes the fields.

    “One of our newly converted silvopastures shows how we created berms from debris,” explains Logan. “The berms will help slow stormwater as the silvopasture gets established with more native savannah and pasture grasses, as well as the native seed bank that was suppressed by invasive plant species.”
    Above: “One of our newly converted silvopastures shows how we created berms from debris,” explains Logan. “The berms will help slow stormwater as the silvopasture gets established with more native savannah and pasture grasses, as well as the native seed bank that was suppressed by invasive plant species.”

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  • Wild Yard Project: David Newsom’s Mission to Re-Wild Landscapes

    Wild Yard Project: David Newsom’s Mission to Re-Wild Landscapes

    The name The Wild Yards Project tells you a little about its founder David Newsom’s journey over the last seven years: It started out as a project. A Los Angeles-based film professional and photographer, Newsom had recently become a parent when he discovered gardening. “I immediately began to worry about my kids’ baseline interaction with the wild world,” he says. “I had no background in botany. I wasn’t into horticulture. I just knew that I found solace in being around plants and animals, and I wanted to give my kids that.” Newsom decided to rewild his backyard, so his kids could have nature right outside their door.

    Photography by David Newsom.

    Above: Newsom’s own yard reveals how land can come back to life. “Before I began this work, the state of our home’s dead, baked lot [at left] was overwhelming and depressing,” he says.

    As Newsom transformed his yard, he documented his work. “I made so many mistakes, but I wrote about it,” he remembers. “And because I had worked in documentary television, if I saw someone who had written an article or someone who was doing really great work, I would just call them.” As Newsom learned more and shared his journey on social media, he says, “I quickly realized that a lot of people were hungry for the idea.” In 2018, he decided to make his project official, naming it The Wild Yards Project—note that it was yards plural–not just his own.

     Above: Newsom’s own wild yard looking particularly lush after California’s atmospheric rivers this past spring.
    Above: Newsom’s own wild yard looking particularly lush after California’s atmospheric rivers this past spring.

    “At first, I thought I would just go around and film and share stories about what people did,” says Newsom. “But I pretty quickly felt compelled to get my own hands dirty and to build these gardens.” Soon Newsom was consulting with other homeowners who wanted to rewild their yards. “I would go over to their house and help them spin a story about what their land could be—that’s how it started.” His work led to deep research into hyperlocal plants in his Mediterranean chaparral biome and ecological gardening practices. “There’s a series of benefits, so many stacked functions to these gardens beyond amplifying biodiversity,” he says. “We’re amplifying physical and mental health, water infiltration, and carbon sequestration.” 

     Above: This hillside garden is an example of a full design and install project that Newsom executed for a client. 
    Above: This hillside garden is an example of a full design and install project that Newsom executed for a client. 

    Casual advice gradually morphed into more formal garden coaching and eventually design and installation services. However, Newsom’s landscape work is different from traditional garden designers. For one, he wants his clients to get their hands dirty. “I tell them: I promise you’ll know more about your land in a year than I do,” he says. “When people move away from traditional gardens, they become authors in the natural and cultural history of their land—and that land is its own educator.” For any project, Newsom visits the property, tests the soil, and explores nearby nature with a similar disposition. Then he creates a plant list and offers a design plan whose execution can range from homeowner DIY to full design and install. Gardeners who want to do it themselves can book Newsom hourly for future coaching. “You don’t need to spend $50,000 to $150,000 on high-priced landscapers,” he says.

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  • Ramial Mulch: Pros and Cons of Mulching with Ramial Wood Chips

    Ramial Mulch: Pros and Cons of Mulching with Ramial Wood Chips

    When mulching your garden, you have many, many choices: shredded hardwood, pine needles, straw, and seashells, to name a few. One of the most common materials used for mulching is wood chips. But not all wood chips are the same. There are bark chips made from the bark of pine trees, which are very attractive and tend to last a very long time. There are industrial wood chips that are made from pallets and waste wood, which is not recommended for use in vegetable gardens due to the possibility of leaching chemicals. And there is one type of wood chips that you probably have never heard of: ramial mulch.

    N.B.: Featured photograph above by Monica Willis for Gardenista, from My Garden Story: A Secret Rooftop Oasis on Manhattan’s Upper West Side.

    What is ramial mulch?

    Branches from a lime tree, ready for the wood chipper. Photograph by Arpent Nourricier via Flickr.
    Above: Branches from a lime tree, ready for the wood chipper. Photograph by Arpent Nourricier via Flickr.

    Ramial is from the Latin word for branch. Ramial mulch is a type of wood chips made specifically from young hardwood tree branches that are up to about two and a half inches thick. (In some cases, shrubs are also included in this description.) In the late 1970s, Laval University in Quebec researched if there could be a use for this lumber byproduct and they found one. Another name for this mulch is BRF, an abbreviation for its French name, bois raméal fragmenté.

    What makes ramial mulch special?

    Because the mulch is made from the youngest of branches, it is full of nutrients and minerals, as most of the tree’s resources are directed to those fast growing branches. This makes them an  almost a perfect food for your garden. Ramial mulch is essentially a mulch that also works as a soil amendment.

    What are the benefits of using ramial mulch?

    The lime branches and leaves, post wood chipper. Ramial mulch often contains leaves as well. Photograph by Arpent Nourricier via Flickr .
    Above: The lime branches and leaves, post wood chipper. Ramial mulch often contains leaves as well. Photograph by Arpent Nourricier via Flickr .

    There are more than a few benefits! First, they are chock full of all the good stuff that goes into making plants grow. Second, they are small, and break down faster than most mulches. And third, fungi and bacteria love it and start to break it down quickly.

    What are the cons?

    As mentioned above, it’s almost a perfect food for your garden—almost because the process of breaking down the ramial chips “steals” available nitrogen from the soil. And when gardeners hear that, they tend to not like it at all. But with most things gardening, it’s not that simple. Yes, the bacteria take nitrogen from the soil, but they are really just borrowing it. Once the decay process is complete and the chips have become humus, the nitrogen is released back into the soil. Keep in mind, too, that mulch is on top of the soil. Your plants’ roots are deep below the top inch of soil where all of this is happening, meaning established plants won’t be affected.

    Where and when should you use ramial mulch in your garden?

    You can use it at any time in established beds, but don’t add it to your vegetable beds or beds with seedlings during the growing season because of the nitrogen issue. Wait until you’ve cleared them in the fall to add it. This gives it time to break down and have the nutrients available in the spring.

    How do you find ramial mulch?

    Since it is a lumber byproduct, ramial mulch can be hard to find if you aren’t anywhere near commercial logging locations or near Canada. You will need to be a bit creative. Contact your arborist. In their process of trimming trees, they could offer you the chipped trimmings. This may also include larger branches. Your local fruit orchard may also be able to provide ramial mulch. Or, you can make your own by renting a chipper and feeding it the prunings from your yard.

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  • Rashid Poulson of Brooklyn Bridge Park on Spring Gardening Chores

    Rashid Poulson of Brooklyn Bridge Park on Spring Gardening Chores

    This is part of a series with Perfect Earth Project, a nonprofit dedicated to toxic-free, nature-based gardening, on how you can be more sustainable in your landscapes at home. 

    Rashid Poulson probably wouldn’t be where he is today if he hadn’t gotten bored at work. The horticultural director of the Brooklyn Bridge Park (BBP), one of the city’s most exciting new parks and our newest Pathways to PRFCT Partner, had zero interest in gardening when he was studying engineering in college. But when the hours dragged during his job as a cashier at the Brooklyn Botanic Garden’s former gift shop, he found himself reaching for the gardening books to pass the time, and “caught the bug.” His mother, a BBG gardener, suggested he apply to New York City’s Million Trees horticultural training program. A few weeks later, while working near the West Side Highway tackling invasive porcelain berry vines and trying to avoid poison ivy, he had an epiphany. “I remember how refreshing the air was, the exposure to the sun, and the interesting cast of intercity youths who were brought together to tackle these daunting plants draped over canopies of oaks and many other mature trees,” he recalls. “In that moment, everything I was doing felt right and purposeful. I was contributing to the world I live in.” He had found his calling.

    Above: Poulson is the director of horticulture at Brooklyn Bridge Park. “With changing hardiness zones, it’s a challenge to navigate the layers of new information, and then turn that information into appropriate action. For example, do you water a struggling tree during drought? Or do you accept it as the larger reality of climate change in that say 30 years from now, this tree might not be able to survive in this particular range or microclimate of New York City?” Photograph by Alexa Hoyer.

    After completing the program, Poulson became an intern at the High Line for a summer before joining the team at BBP in 2012. He’s been there ever since, rising through the ranks—from seasonal gardener to director of horticulture in 2022. Designed by Michael Van Valkenburgh Associates, BBP encompasses 85 acres on the Brooklyn waterfront and features freshwater wetlands, flower meadows, woodlands, and salt marshes—all maintained organically and sustainably. Poulson shares how the gardeners tackle weeds, the native plants that make his heart sing, and more.

    Photography by Rashid Poulson, unless noted.

    What’s the horticulture team at Brooklyn Bridge Park up to right now?

    Poulson at work.
    Above: Poulson at work.

    We just kicked off irrigation in the park, which is big for us because after nearly a decade, managing turf is back under the horticulture department. We will be experimenting with incorporating clovers into a few of our small lawns to see where we can reduce our inputs into over 11 acres of turf areas throughout the park. We aim to expand on this as much as possible with larger lawns. 

    We are eager to dive into the spring planting season. There are some new Carex plantings (Carex radiata and Carex greyi) adjacent to lawns that I am certain will be successful. These plantings grow under trees like Metasequoias (dawn redwoods) and Taxodiums (bald cypresses) that provide ample shade along lawns, where full sun turf grasses are unable to establish. This will likely serve as a model for us to add a variety of native plants that could straddle the lawns in areas that are typically mulched pits and will function with lower maintenance inputs and will have fewer resources applied. And of course, they will heighten the aesthetics of the area. 

    What are some of the tasks/practices that you are doing now in the garden? 

    The name of the game this time of the year is staying on top of the weeds ahead of summer. We’re trying a new method this year: a radial approach [to weeding]. Imagine a 10-foot x 10-foot area, where you’ll find things like Gallium, nettle, and then a bunch of mugwort forming in the middle. The instinct might be to run straight for the mugwort and pull it, especially considering how aggressive it is. But you really want to start at the perimeter, the furthermost perimeter of your weed populations and subtly work your way in. This way we can boost our thoroughness and effectiveness, as well as have as delicate a footprint as possible. When you are utilizing those radial approaches, you allow the eye to prioritize a little bit better. Once you’re done, you’ve also essentially closed off that situation and prevented the spread of these hot pockets of weeds that we have throughout the park.

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  • Gardener’s Dozen: Jinny Blom’s Outdoor (And Indoor) Paint Collection – Gardenista

    Gardener’s Dozen: Jinny Blom’s Outdoor (And Indoor) Paint Collection – Gardenista

    “White is not a good color in a garden,” says internationally-renowned landscape gardener Jinny Blom, whose paint range launches today. Over the last decade or so she has worked on developing colors that “read as white” when seen in a landscape—as well as better choices for railings than the usual black, and an accent red for furniture that is as beguiling as a Ladybird poppy. Her manufacturing partner, venerable London company Mylands, offers this collection in three water-based finishes: exterior masonry paint, marble matte emulsion (made with crushed marble), and a plant-based multi-surface paint (the latter in matte, eggshell, satin, and gloss). They are distributed in the US.

    Photography by Britt Willoughby.

    Above: Bespoke railings require proper paint colors, variations on black. Seen here: Murmuration.

    “Mylands has an exceptional understanding of color as a mood-altering background, so in that we share a common language,” writes Jinny in her recent book, What Makes a Garden. Railings are normally underplayed but since Jinny commissions miles of them, it stands to reason that she is as interested in the color of metalwork as she is bothered by something that is the wrong color. “If you ever want to know where color is going wrong in a garden, just take a load of snaps on your phone—it’ll jump out immediately.”

    Above: Railings in Murmuration (at left) and window frames in Cooper’s Earth (right). Considered color for metalwork, masonry, and wood enhances good planting.

    Mylands is the oldest family-owned paints and polishes manufacturer in the UK and has been quietly servicing the entertainment business and Buckingham Palace for decades. Its eco-credentials are excellent, although those are not widely broadcast either: Their intense hues are the result of earth pigments and natural resins, they are low in VOCs, and their paints are solvent-free.

    Above: Ready for red? Blomster is a beguiling accent color, set here against Cragside. For the window frames: Cooper’s Earth.

    Jinny asked the artist Susan Hirsch to help her develop the colors she had in mind. The origin of Blomster red was an old faded chair that she’d noticed once, outside a house: “I recognized it again once she’d finished mixing.”

    Above: Seats in Blomster, table in Woodnight.
    Above: The color Rain, reminiscent of shutters in France, as seen here.
    Above: Window frame in Grail, “a cool, modern ‘white’ substitute.”

    The five tones that Jinny developed to use in place of white are: Grail, Rain, Sprig, Sargasso, and Cooper’s Earth. “Natural light is very powerful and bleaches most colors, so don’t be afraid of experimenting with tones instead.”

    Above: Mylands x Jinny Blom. Left column from top: Blomster, Grail, Woodnight, Rain, Sprig, Sargasso. Right column from top: Haar, Equinox, Cooper’s Earth, Murmuration, Cragside, Riverine.

    For more on natural exterior stains and paints, see:

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  • Leaf Mulch: Why You Should Leave the Leaves in Spring, Too

    Leaf Mulch: Why You Should Leave the Leaves in Spring, Too

    Spring is in the air, and for many gardeners, that means it’s time to start cleaning up the yard. But what if I told you that your garden beds will be better off with a little mess?

    Leaving the leaves is not just for fall. Here are seven critical reasons to keep them on your garden beds as winter turns into spring, and spring into summer.

    1. Protects good bugs.

    Above: Leaf litter provides shelter and nutrients to beneficial insects like centipedes and millipedes. Photograph by Jim Powell for Gardenista, from 10 Essential Insects You Need in the Garden.

    Leaves provide a vital habitat for pollinators like butterflies, moths, and native bees as well as other beneficial insects. All of them need a place to overwinter. They all come out of diapause (bug hibernation) at different times between March and May. Removing the leaves too early means you’re throwing out Luna moths, red-banded hairstreak butterflies, and leaf cutter, miner, and mason bees.

    2. Provides free mulch.

    No need to buy mulch. Leaves keep moisture in and weeds out just as well as wood mulch.

    3. Builds healthy soil.

    Mulched leaves in a vegetable garden. Photograph by Sheila Brown via Flickr.
    Above: Mulched leaves in a vegetable garden. Photograph by Sheila Brown via Flickr.

    Leaves decompose over the course of the year and by doing so, they provide the trees exactly what they need in the way of nutrients…since they came from the tree. And when leaves break down in garden beds, they add to the soil structure that keeps your soil, and by extension, your plants happy.

    4. Reduces pest issues.

    No pesticides necessary when you leave the leaves, thus providing a home for beneficial insects that eat mosquitoes and other garden pests, such as dragonflies and crane flies. Native insects also attract birds and bats that eat mosquitoes. And leaf litter is a draw as well for opossums that love to eat ticks.

    5. Decreases your carbon footprint:

    Fallen leaves gathered from the yard and placed in a garden bed. Photograph by jacki-dee via Flickr.
    Above: Fallen leaves gathered from the yard and placed in a garden bed. Photograph by jacki-dee via Flickr.

    The methods by which many homeowners remove leaves from their property are often not very eco-friendly: Using a leaf blower contributes to greenhouse gases and noise pollution, and harms the topsoil as well. And if the leaves are placed in garbage bag and sent to the landfill, the leaves decompose without oxygen, producing methane gas. When you rake the leaves into your garden beds, the only energy you’re using is your own.

    6. Contributes to a balanced ecosystem:

    Above: Snowdrops love damp-ish conditions, and fallen leaves are great at locking in moisture. Photograph by Britt Willoughby Dyer, from Gardening 101: Snowdrops.

    Leaves are not trash. They are an integral part of your ecosystem. They provide food, shelter, and nutrients. Your garden is not just a bunch of plants but an interconnected system in which all parts are equally important for its health. For instance, caterpillars are the only thing most baby songbirds eat. Keeping the leaves helps caterpillars thrive, which in turn helps birds in the spring.

    6. Saves time.

    Leaving the leaves gives you back time to do other more enjoyable gardening tasks! Like planting more plants! (For time savers, see Landscaping: 10 Clever Gardening Tips to Save Time.)

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  • Pine Tar: A Sustainable, Natural Wood Preservative and Stain

    Pine Tar: A Sustainable, Natural Wood Preservative and Stain

    Venmo, dishwashers, those Instagram filters that give tired faces a glow-up—we can all agree our world has benefited from progress. But some things don’t need to be improved upon. Case in point: pine tar.

    Pine tar has been in existence since the days of the plundering-and-pilfering Vikings, who distilled the stuff in large quantities and used it to preserve their wooden ships. If it’s potent enough to waterproof these vessels that sailed the rough waters of the North Sea, it’s surely good enough to protect your wood fence, deck, garden shed, barn, or home.

    To learn more about pine tar, we reached out to the folks at Earth & Flax and Sage Restoration, two North American companies that specialize in natural Scandinavian paints and wood finishes, as well as Emil Jespersen, cofounder of Danish-Norwegian architecture firm Jespersen Nødtvedt, who recently worked with pine tar on a project for a client.

    What is pine tar?

    Plywood painted with pine tar clads the exterior of this cottage in Sweden by architect Johannes Norlander. Photograph by Rasmus Norlander, courtesy of Johannes Norlander Arkitektur, from Architect Visit: Johannes Norlander in Sweden.
    Above: Plywood painted with pine tar clads the exterior of this cottage in Sweden by architect Johannes Norlander. Photograph by Rasmus Norlander, courtesy of Johannes Norlander Arkitektur, from Architect Visit: Johannes Norlander in Sweden.

    Pine tar is a natural marine-grade wood preservative. Traditional pine tar was made by essentially cooking down pine stumps in fire pits to yield a syrup-y, dark-colored, and resin- and turpentine-rich liquid. Today, most pine tar products are produced in kilns (using heat only).

    Post-Viking Age, pine tar is primarily used as a finish for decks, fences, facades, and roofs in Scandinavian countries, but interest in the wood preservative is growing in the U.S. “What’s old is new again. People are looking for alternatives to modern chemical finishes, and architects are looking for something new to offer clients,” says Michael Sinclair of Sage Restoration, which is based in Tamworth, Ontario. “Our sales have been increasing every year.”

    Natalie Yon Eriksson, founder of Philadelphia’s Earth & Flax, agrees. “This trend is going strong. Pine tar has been used with or in place of the traditional Japanese shou sugi ban burned or charred siding treatment,” she says. “The best aspects of pine tar are that it is sourced from nature, using a waste product from the timber industry, and is an exceptional natural wood preservative.”

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  • Summer Rayne Oakes: The Plant Educator Shares Her Plant Wisdom

    Summer Rayne Oakes: The Plant Educator Shares Her Plant Wisdom

    You may remember Summer Rayne Oakes from her incredible, plant-filled Brooklyn apartment that went viral in 2016. Since then, “I set out on a mission to bring people closer to plants by bringing plants closer to them,” she says, via her YouTube channel “Plant One On Me” and her Houseplant Masterclass series. During the COVID pandemic, she and her friends decided to buy a former plant nursery in the Finger Lakes region of New York, “with the goal of turning it into a communal homestead and botanical oasis.” They document their progress on their new channel Flock

    Summer shared her plant wisdom in our newest book Remodelista: The Low-Impact Home. Here, she goes deeper, revealing the tool she can’t live without, her favorite method of deterring weeds, and more.

    Photography courtesy of Flock.

    Your first garden memory:

    Above: Summer and her friends are currently transforming 90 acres in the Finger Lakes region into a communal homestead.

    My mom kept the most beautiful flower gardens on the street, and we had a large veggie garden and small orchard, too. Towards the back of our land, we had gargantuan rhubarbs that grew around the red currants. I would hide under the rhubarb leaves, like they were folious umbrellas. And I would break the stems and eat them raw—even though they were quite sour. My mother would make French-style crepes with the currants too, which were my favorite. And how can I forget the lilacs! My bedroom was on the second floor of the house and every summer, the lilacs bloomed outside my window and the warm breezes would blow the scent all through my bedroom. It was decadent. Sadly when we left that house, I asked my mother if we could take the lilac bushes, but I would have to wait when I was adult to enjoy the scent of lilacs again.

    Book/show/movie/art that has influenced your work:

    I think Rick Darke’s and Doug Tallamy’s book, The Living Landscape, really encapsulated creating a garden that selflessly extends beyond yourself to one that focuses on promoting biodiversity and maintaining ecosystem function. Piet Oudolf’s landscape creations are also so soothing to the eye, and I find myself referencing his textures and painterly approach to landscaping.

    Garden-related book you return to time and again:

    Perhaps not gardening books per se, but I’m constantly reaching for my pollinator identification guides and caterpillar books, for which I have several, because I’m always seeing never-before-seen insects in my garden, especially now that I’ve been focusing on planting insect host plants.

    Plant that makes you swoon:

    Above: The pollinator garden at Flock.

    Symphyotrichum ericoides ’Snow Flurry’; Muhlenbergia capillaris; Eragrosis spectabilis; and All things Liatris, including Liatris microcephala.

    Plant that makes you want to run the other way:

    Reynoutria japonica (Japanese knotweed) and vinca vine.

    Most dreaded gardening chore:

    Removing grass from garden edges.

    Unpopular gardening opinion:

    Above: No space between plants = no space for weeds.

    Don’t follow the plant spacing recommendations on the back of plant tags. I like to plant close together to suppress unchosen plants early on and create a carpet of foliage.

    The one thing you wish gardeners would stop doing:

    Planting only non-native species.

    Old wives’ tale gardening trick that actually works:

    Composted manure brings big veggies!

    Favorite gardening hack:

    Plant densely to avoid weeds, plant diversely to bring life.

    Tool you can’t live without:

    The 8-Tine Poly Mulching Fork is $82.98 at A.M. Leonard.
    Above: The 8-Tine Poly Mulching Fork is $82.98 at A.M. Leonard.

    A.M. Leonard’s gardening fork for wood chips and mulch.

    Every garden needs a…

    Healthy soil ecosystem.

    Favorite hardscaping material:

    Local stone—we have one called Llenroc. I absolutely love the way native stone looks in the garden.

    Go-to gardening outfit:

    Above: Summer in her favorite gardening uniform.

    My olive green overalls.

    Favorite nursery, plant shop, or seed company:

    The Plantsmen; Rare Roots; Ernst Seeds.

    On your wishlist:

    Castilleja coccinea (Indian paintbrush) and Rheum nobile.

    Not-to-be-missed public garden/park/botanical garden:

    Gothenburg Botanic Gardens in Sweden.

    The REAL reason you garden:

    Above: All wildlife welcome.

    I love the life my gardens bring to the land—from the birds to the bugs. Seeing wildlife utilize my gardens is truly fulfilling.

    Future projects:

    I’ll be taking up more non-native grass from the landscape and doing several different approaches to growing more natively and diversely.

    You can find Summer on YouTube here and follow her on Instagram @homesteadbrooklyn and @flockfingerlakes.

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  • Sustainable Seed Starting: 5 Favorite Eco-Conscious Methods

    Sustainable Seed Starting: 5 Favorite Eco-Conscious Methods

    Buying plastic starter pots and trays certainly isn’t going to tip the world into a climate disaster, but when there are so many plastic-free options these days, you have every reason to choose sustainable over synthetic. Below, five Gardenista-approved, Earth-friendly options for starting seeds. (Note: If you already have plastic starter pots, go ahead and […]

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  • Naturalistic Permeable Driveways:Tips on Creating a Beautiful Place to Park Your Car

    Naturalistic Permeable Driveways:Tips on Creating a Beautiful Place to Park Your Car

    What if your driveway were beautiful? If you have a typical American stretch of asphalt for a driveway, this question might come off as an absurd provocation, but Andrea Hurd, the founder of Mariposa Gardening & Design, has proven over and over that a beautiful place to park your car is possible. Her Bay Area firm uses their expertise in stonework and horticulture to create driveways that are an attractive addition to the landscape. Hurd’s interest in reimagining driveways doesn’t stem solely from aesthetic ambitions, though.

    Trained in permaculture, Hurd worked with the San Francisco League of Urban Gardeners in the 1990s. There, she learned that the water that runs over your driveway picks up oil and gas that has leaked from cars. “That polluted water goes into storm drains that go straight to the Bay,” says Hurd. One solution to manage this problem is to replace conventional driveways with permeable ones, which allow stormwater to be filtered through the soil, keeping pollutants out of natural bodies of water.

    The benefits of a permeable driveway don’t end there. By keeping rainwater on a homeowner’s property, the water soaks into the ground to recharge the groundwater table. Ripping out concrete can also reduce the heat island effect, as concrete reflects the sun’s heat. And if you add plants to your new permeable driveway, you can create habitat for pollinators—not to mention improved curb appeal. Perhaps best of all? Your newly beautified driveway can be used as garden space when your car is not parked there.

    Here’s what you need to know to create your own beautiful, permeable parking spot:

    Photography by Saxon Holt, unless otherwise noted.

    Remove the concrete.

    Before and after—Mariposa Gardening & Design replaced this concrete driveway in Berkeley with a permeable design that created room for many new plants, including a mixture of creeping thymes and native strawberries.
    Above: Before and after—Mariposa Gardening & Design replaced this concrete driveway in Berkeley with a permeable design that created room for many new plants, including a mixture of creeping thymes and native strawberries.

    The first step to creating a permeable driveway is to remove non-permeable concrete or asphalt surfaces. Unless you’re handy with a jackhammer, this is probably a job for a pro. “Hopefully you have a driveway that was built to code, which means you’ve got a sufficient amount of base material underneath the concrete pour,” says Hurd. But if that is not the case, your contractors will need to regrade the driveway so that water slopes away from the foundation of the house.

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