Tag: indoor gardening

Goodbye, Fungus Gnats! How to Get Rid of Gnats in Plants – Garden Therapy
Now you can enjoy your houseplants without having to tolerate any unwanted guests. Wondering how to get rid of fungus gnats? You aren’t alone! Learn how to prevent and how to get rid of gnats in plants naturally.

There’s something refreshing about having houseplants inside your home. They breathe life into a house and also add a nice colorful flair.

Houseplants bring a wonderful, lovely dose of nature indoors where you need it most, further helping us by purifying the air in our homes.

However, at some point, you might notice some unwelcome visitors making your houseplants their home. I’m talking about fungus gnats—those annoying little flies that appear whenever you water your plants. Ugh! Do these houseplant pests plague your plant babies too?

Don’t worry, if you are having gnat problems, there are simple—and natural—ways to not only prevent but also get rid of fungus gnats in soil.

Disclaimer: First, a disclaimer. I love living things and try to support natural insects anytime I can. For example, in the outdoor garden, I work to create a natural ecosystem that supports predators for the pests that attack my plants.

Indoor plants, however, have only a few natural predators that want to kill fungus gnats – the people and pets they annoy! Unfortunately, the only reasonable way to get rid of fungus gnats in your house is to kill off the pests you have and treat your plants to prevent future infestations.

In this post, we will cover:

What Are Fungus Gnats and How Do They Get in the House?

Fungus gnats, also known as soil gnats, are small dark insects that look similar to fruit flies and live in the soil of houseplants. When you have them, you will notice them when you water your plants or disturb the soil in other ways.

One way to get fungus gnats is to leave your houseplants outside. Most often, though, they come straight from the nursery. You don’t realize it because they hide in the soil until you bring them home unknowingly.

Their larvae eat plant roots and fungi in the soil. Then they suddenly appear in houseplants after the larvae hatch.

Why Are Fungus Gnats Bad?

While these pests are a nuisance in noticeable numbers, it might be comforting (on some level) to know that the adults are harmless insects that do not bite.

Also, they don’t do much damage to strong, healthy plants, but they can cause wilting yellowing leaves, stunted growth, and even death in seedlings and more fragile plants.

But honestly, nobody wants a swarm of gnats flying in your face every time you water your houseplants. Yuck.

When Are You Most Likely to Find Fungus Gnats?

Nuisance problems with fungus gnat adults tend to be most noticeable during late fall and winter, for a couple of reasons:
1. Houseplants that live outdoors during warm months will commonly start breeding fungus gnats. When these plants are brought indoors, populations may increase due to the warmer temperatures found in homes.
2. People are indoors more during the colder months, making it easier to notice an infestation.
How to Get Rid of Fungus Gnats

Killing off soil gnats is really not very difficult, and thankfully, you don’t need to bug bomb your home (yay). It all has to do with disrupting their life cycle and making your home inhospitable for these pests. Here’s how to naturally treat your houseplants and get rid of gnats in the soil.

Make the Natural Habitat Inhospitable

Fungus gnat larvae need moist soil to survive. By letting it dry out completely before your next watering, it will get rid of the gnats in the soil and discourage new adults from laying fungus gnat eggs, thus effectively cutting out the larval stage altogether.

Use a Soap-and-Water Mixture

Take a cup of water and add a few drops of liquid dish soap or liquid Castille soap. Use a spray bottle to spray the top of the soil with this to kill the larvae. Repeat this process again in a few days to ensure that you have killed all of the larvae.

While some people recommend vinegar traps, I have found the soap and water to be more effective. Vinegar (and in particular a bowl of apple cider vinegar) is better suited for making a fruit fly trap.

Use Sand or Gravel

Fungus gnats only lay their eggs in the top inch of soil. Replacing that top inch with sand or gravel creates a dry environment and robs them of nutrient-rich fungus to munch on. Without their needed source of food available, they won’t want to lay their eggs.

You can also use pretty decorative aquamarine rocks and add a splash of color to some of your favorite plant babies.

Dispose of the Top Layer of Soil Outdoors

The eggs can still hatch. Let them hatch outside rather than somewhere in your home. You don’t want to just move your pests from one part of the house to another.

By taking all of these steps, you can naturally control and prevent fungus gnat infestations.

How to Prevent Fungus Gnats

Let’s chat about the steps you can take to prevent these annoying pests from ever entering your life in the first place!

Don’t Overwater Your Houseplants

Make sure you aren’t overwatering your plants. Moisture is a big plus for gnats, so to make their new environment inhospitable, you need to let the soil they live in dry out completely.

Neither adult gnats nor their larvae can survive in dry soil, so let your soil dry out completely between watering as often as possible. Here’s an entire guide devoted to teaching how to water your houseplant properly.

Water From the Bottom

Bottom watering will help the topsoil (where the gnats lay eggs) stay dry while keeping your plants hydrated and happy.

If you keep your potting soil in the bag it comes in, fungus gnats can easily get in and lay their eggs. However, the eggs need air to survive, so airtight containers like buckets with tight-fitting lids will keep gnat larvae at bay.

Now That Takes Care of Gnats, but What About Other Houseplant Pests?

Expert David Squire popped by as a guest of Garden Therapy to share information on 8 of the other most common indoor plant pests and how to get rid of them. He has some great tips and tricks here for getting rid of houseplant pests!

Love houseplants? These Posts Are Great Reads

A city girl who learned to garden and it changed everything. Author, artist, Master Gardener. Better living through plants.
Stephanie Rose

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February 9, 2026
How to Make a Stunning Sand Art Terrarium – Garden Therapy
Once again, terrariums have taken the plant community by storm. With a little bit of a crafty twist, this DIY sand art terrarium is a great way to spice up the living room, hallway, bedside table, or even bathroom. So, get your plant on and make your own terrarium!

This post will cover…

Terrariums are no longer just seen as a revival of a retro 1970’s craft. Modern versions have popped up in florist shops, furniture stores, and lifestyle shops. Attending a terrarium workshop is now a common activity for a bridal shower and mini terrariums grace the tables of many a wedding.

This newfound popularity is likely because terrariums are charming additions to home decor, along with being incredibly fun to make. These terrariums revive another craft from an earlier era…sand art!

Pouring layers of coloured sand around the roots of a tropical plant gives this project as gorgeous a display below the leaves as above.

This is one of the many garden-inspired projects from my book, Garden Made. Be sure to check it out for more green projects inside and outside the home.

Make a DIY Sand Art Terrarium

Making your own sand art terrariums are quite simple. With some florist’s foam hiding beneath the surface and layers of coloured sand, it’s the perfect addition to your indoor garden.

Materials

Instructions

With a sharp knife, cut the foam to both fit in the vase, and at a height that will allow for the plant you have chosen to be completely contained.

Pour one colour of sand around the foam to hold it in place. Layer another colour of sand and fill to the height of the florist foam.

Set your plant, in the pot, on the florist foam.

Pour layers of coloured sand down the sides of the vase until you completely conceal the small pot. Use the end of a thin paintbrush to hold the leaves aside while you add the sand, and then use the brush to dust the sand off the leaves. Use a cloth to wipe the sand dust from the sides of the vase, inside and out.

For a longer-lasting terrarium, give your plant lots of room to grow. If the plants’ roots are crowded in the pot it was purchased in, pot it up into the largest container that still fits inside the vase.

Water with a dropper, turkey baster, or watering can with a thin spout that can direct the water to the soil just under the leaves. Excess water will flow into the highly absorbent florist foam. Set the terrarium in bright, indirect light and trim back plants as flowers fade or leaves grow tall.

Frequently Asked Questions About Making a Sand Art Terrarium

What Plants Are Best for a Terrarium?

Cyclamen, polka dot plant, and hart’s-tongue fern are featured in my terrarium. Other great plants include nerve plants, peperomia, pilea, selaginella, and air plants. You can learn more about how to care for these terrarium plants here.

Overall, look for smallish plants of varying heights and colours to get a beautiful terrarium. For enclosed terrariums, choose tropical plants that like humidity.

What Kind of Sand is Good for a Terrarium?

In my terrarium, I used coloured sand as it makes the terrarium pop and comes in all kinds of colours. When purchasing coloured sand, look for aquarium-grade sand. It is already treated and safe for use with living things.

Avoid play sand unless the plants are nowhere near it. Made of finer grains, it fills holes rather than creates them. It does not easily allow water to pass through and onwards for our plants.

For cheap and readily available sand that will work, you can also use builder’s sand or horticultural sand. You won’t find these ones in fun colours though!

How Do You Keep Sand Art From Moving?

The less movement the better! Once your plant is nestled within your sand art, leave it alone until it’s time to repot it. To avoid your sand layers from mixing with each other, you can add a layer of white glue and wait for it to dry. Similarly, you can use clear candle wax to keep each layer in place.

How Do You Water Plants in a Terrarium?

Terrariums that are in enclosed containers will not need very much water. Through evaporation, it will produce quite a bit of humidity on its own. All it will need is a little bit of water every few months with a narrow-spouted watering can directed to the base of the plant. Otherwise, the terrarium is fine all on its own.

For my terrarium, the top remains open. In this case, I water it as frequently as I would normally, according to the plant’s needs. Learn more about terrarium care here.

I think these sand art terrariums are very chic and quite easy to make in under an hour. Let me know how yours turn out in the comments down below!

More Posts About Terrariums
Sand Art Terrariums

These crafty but chic terrariums take less than an hour to make and are sure to add some flair to your indoor garden.

With a sharp knife, cut the florist foam to fit in the base of the glass container and to give your plant the right height within the container.

Pour your first layer of sand around the foam to hold it in place. Add a second layer of another colour to the top of the foam.

Set your plant atop the foam.

Pour more layers of sand until you reach the top of your pot. Use the end of a paintbrush to carefully hold the leaves out of the way from the sand while pouring.

Use the paintbrush to sweep any remaining sand from leaves and the inside of the vase.

Water with a turkey baster or watering can with a narrow spout to the base of the plant. The florist foam will help contain excess water. Place in bright, indirect light.
A city girl who learned to garden and it changed everything. Author, artist, Master Gardener. Better living through plants.
Stephanie Rose

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February 1, 2026
Find Good Fortune With The Chinese Money Plant – Garden Therapy

The handsome Chinese Money Plant has taken the world (and internet) by storm, famous for its unique coin-shaped leaves and deep green colour. But don’t let its delicacy intimidate you! These gorgeous plants are easy to care for and, with a little patience, will make an excellent, propagation-friendly addition to your indoor jungle.

Meet the Chinese Money Plant

The Chinese Money Plant, or Pilea peperomioides, originates from the Yunnan and Sichuan provinces in southern China, where it loves to grow on rocky mountainsides. This flowering beauty belongs to the nettle family, but don’t worry, it won’t sting you!

In fact, it was once believed to bring good fortune due to its distinct, coin-like leaves. It is also commonly called Pilea, Pancake Plant, UFO Plant, or Friendship Plant.

These plants typically grow to reach 30 cm in height and in the right conditions can double in size in only a year, making them perfect and rewarding indoor companions for both home and apartment dwellers.

If you’re willing to invest extra care into this plant, you could even see it bloom, revealing delicate white or pink flowers grown from a purple stem. Below I’ll show you how easy it is to help your pilea thrive.

This post will cover…

Chinese Money Plant Care

Location

Looking to keep your Chinese Money Plant looking as beautiful as when you bought it? This plant loves a bright room kept between 13°C to 30°C—if you have an east-facing window, this little guy would love to be near it in a ceramic pot with a good drainage hole.

Sun

The Chinese Money plant loves bright, indirect light. It’ll love a window, but not the scorching sun! If placed in a west-facing window that gets intense afternoon sun, you’ll see the leaves burn and lighten, and in too much shade the plant could grow tall and lanky.

If your only window options get a lot of direct sunlight, fear not! Investing in a simple, sheer curtain will do this plant a world of good.

Water

Year-round you can let pilea almost dry out between waterings (but not bone dry!), as it doesn’t like to be soaked. Typically you can expect to water your Chinese Money Plant once a week, but make sure to give the soil a quick touch before watering to make sure it isn’t already damp. If you lift your plant and it feels very light, you might have waited too long between waterings and it could use a good drink.

If one day you spot some of the leaves yellowing—the worst, I know!—it’s likely due to overwatering. Try not to panic and make sure to let the soil dry out before giving it its next water. If your plant is sitting on a saucer that fills after watering, don’t let it sit in that extra water for more than a couple of hours.

Soil

Your plant will thank you if given well-drained potting soil, as it doesn’t like to be soggy. Ideally, a soil based on peat coir fiber and perlite will give your plant all the nutrients and drainage it needs to stay happy and growing.

Fertilizer

Though it might be tempting to generously fertilize this pretty plant in the hope of speedy growth and new daughter plants, the Chinese Money Plant only needs fertilization once a month during spring and summer when it is actively growing. It’s best not to fertilize dry soil, so try adding your diluted fertilizer a day after your usual watering.

Common Issues

A common problem you might face with Pilea is yellowing leaves, often due to overwatering. If you see this start to happen, don’t panic! Gently remove the yellow leaves and allow the soil to dry out before your next watering.

If you’re noticing your plant start to droop, it’s thirsty! Give it a good drink and allow the water to drain out of the pot.

How to Propagate Chinese Money Plants

Chinese Money Plants are generous propagators, hence its nickname the Friendship Plant! As your plant grows, you might start to see small daughter plants, also called offsets or pups, growing near the base of the original plant that you can separate and share with your fellow plant-lovers.

Once these offsets grow to an inch or two tall, you’ll be able to separate them into their own pot. Dig gently into the dirt around the daughter plant to expose the roots, then snip it free from the original plant with a clean, sharp pair of scissors.

There should be a small number of roots attached to the new plant to be planted in its new pot with fresh soil. If you accidentally cut off all the roots of this new offset, all is not lost. Pop the cut end of the plant into a little bit of water and wait for new roots to grow, then repot into the new soil.

Frequently Asked Questions About Chinese Money Plants

What is the Meaning of Chinese Money Plant?

The Chinese Money Plant earned its name from its round, circular leaves that resemble coins. They used to be considered good luck and capable of bringing their owner’s good fortune, and with how easy it is to propagate them, I like to believe they still can!

Why Are My Chinese Money Plant’s Leaves Curling?

If you notice your plant’s leaves start to curl, there could be a number of causes. Most commonly this indicates too little light—your leafy friend might need a brighter spot in your home.

It could also be due to temperatures being too low or too high (this plant’s sweet spot is typically 13°C to 20°C) or incorrect watering. Make sure to follow the care tips above and given a little time and correction, these curled leaves should unfurl.

Note: new leaves will always grow in curled, but they should flatten out over time as they get bigger.

Are Chinese Money Plants Safe for Cats?

Chinese Money Plants really are a good fortune for pet lovers! These beauties are non-toxic to both cats and dogs and thus are safe to keep in your home with curious furry friends.

Do you have a Chinese Money Plant at home? Let me know any other care questions you may have in the comments down below!

More Houseplant Care Guides

A city girl who learned to garden and it changed everything. Author, artist, Master Gardener. Better living through plants.

Stephanie Rose

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January 24, 2026
How to Grow and Keep Your Monstera Plant Happy – Garden Therapy
Everyone’s talking about monsteras! These houseplants have some of the most impressive-looking leaves, coated in slits and holes to make them especially unique. The star of the room, learn how to care for your prized monstera plant.

The plant world had no idea what was in store for them the second interior designers started posting photos of monstera plants on Instagram. Arguably the most popular houseplant of the decade, everyone and their cousin seems to have a monstera plant somewhere in their home.

And for good reason! These plants sure know how to draw the eye and become the focal point of the room. Their dramatic leaves add a tropical flair that has inspired prints from bedsheets to wallpaper. You know exactly what I’m talking about!

Join in on the monstera craze and learn how to care for these tropical beauties.

This post covers…

Known as leaf fenestration, monstera leaves have natural holes and slits in their leaves.

Meet the Monstera Plant

Native to the rainforests of Central America, monstera plants come from the Araceae family. They’re known for their dramatic leaves with slits in them. Leathery and glossy, they make a statement in whatever room they’re in.

Their signature slits or holes are known as fenestrations. Outdoors, the slits allow rain and sunlight to go through and reach the roots and leaves below. Due to its holes, the monstera has also earned its alternative name of a Swiss cheese plant.

Out in the wild, you might see the monstera plant flowering. Tan or cream in colour, they’re popular with the bees and butterflies and turn into a fruit with rich and delicious taste. However, monstera houseplants won’t flower or fruit!

Monstera can grow fast, up to 1-2 ft a year. They can get 2-3 ft wide and up to 3 ft tall. Natural climbers, they sprout many aerial roots in addition to their leaves.

A small aerial root growing on a monstera.

Types of Monstera Plants

With over 48 species of monstera plants, there’s an incredible variety of monstera types out there. In fact, many are often mislabelled because they change so much in appearance as they grow. Here are some popular varieties that you

Monstera deliciosa is the most popularized type of monstera.
- Monstera deliciosa. The most popular type out there and the one you’re most likely to find at your local garden centre. They have the classic large, glossy green leaves with slits in them.
- Monstera borsigniana. A variation of deliciosa. At first, it’s hard to tell the difference between the two types when young. However, borsigniana are smaller and grow faster. The slits tend to be in rows rather than at random like the deliciosa.
- Monstera variegata. These monsteras are very popular and can be difficult to find and therefore more expensive. They’re known for a distinct colour variation of white and cream that almost looks painted on.
- Monstera adansonii. Smaller than most of the others, the adansonii appears more vine-like. The holes stills take up about 50% of the leaf, with some appearing round and others more narrow.
- Monstera dubia. Also known as the shingle plant, the dubia has smaller leaves with light and dark green veining. This is also a rarer variety; their leaves appear almost variegated.
Monstera adansonii are a smaller type of monstera that vines.

Monstera Plant Care

Monsteras aren’t too finicky, but they can be a little tempermental for beginner houseplant growers. Every plant has its ideal lifestyle, so here are some tips on proper monstera plant care.

Location

Swiss cheese plants add a dramatic flair wherever you place them, be it your living room or office. When placing it, keep in mind that they don’t like cold drafts and heaters. Their optimal temperature is 60-80°F (15-27°C). They don’t like to go below 55°F (12.8°C).

In the wild, they like to climb upwards. To encourage this growth, give them a moss pole. Otherwise, they will grow outwards and take up quite a bit of room.

Most types of monstera need a climbing support of some kind, like a moss pole.

Light

Monster plants will happily sit in a not-so-sunny corner. They’re fairly tolerant of low light which makes them great for the areas of your home that need a little brightening up with some greenery.

If you really want your monstera to thrive, place it in bright, indirect light. Be careful not to place it in direct sunlight as this can burn the leaves.

Water

Monster plants should be watered when the top 2-3 inches of the soil are dry. Use your finger and stick it in the soil to test for dryness. When it’s time to water, water thoroughly until you see water draining through the bottom holes. Toss out any excess water from the saucer.

You want your monstera to dry out completely between waterings. In the summer, you will need to water fairly regularly and only occasionally during the cool season.

Coming from rainforests, monstera plants like a fair amount of humidity. You can mist your plant once a week in the morning for extra humidity. You can make a humidity tray to help.

Monstera plants thrive with humidity.

Soil

Use well-draining soil designed with houseplants in mind. You should keep the soil somewhat moist, but it should be in a pot with drainage holes to avoid any wet feet (which can lead to root rot).

Fill your soil in a deep pot to accommodate the roots. The pot should be a few inches wider and deeper than the pot it came in.

Fertilizer

During the growth season, from spring to summer, fertilize your Swiss cheese plant once a month or every other week. Use a water-soluble fertilizer and always apply it to wet soil.

Stop fertilizing in the fall and winter.

Common Issues

Yellow leaves are a sign of improper watering. Only water your Swiss cheese plant when the top is dry, and water thoroughly in one go. Yellowing leaves may also indicate it’s not getting enough light.

Leaves with brown edges mean the plant needs more humidity. If left unresolved, they will also turn yellow before falling off.

Limp leaves mean the plant is likely not getting enough water. Give it a good soaking in the bathtub and let all the excess water drain out.

The aerial roots can also get unruly. While you can trim them, it’s best to try and tuck them back down into the pot.

Because of their large leaves, they can get dusty. To remove dust, wipe them down with a damp sponge or paper towel.

If the leaves on your monster aren’t splitting, it likely means it’s not getting enough light. Try moving it to another location and also pay attention to your watering schedule.

Propagating Your Monstera Plant

The easiest way to propagate monstera plants is by taking stem cuttings and placing them in water. Here’s how to propagate them:
1. Take your cutting using sanitized pruners. The cutting could be cut below the node (where a leaf has or will emerge), have an aerial root, and at least two leaves.
2. Place your cutting in a vase or glass of water.
3. Change the water every 2-3 days. After a couple of months, the cutting should have roots long enough to plant.
4. Plant your monstera in new potting soil. Add in a moss pole for support and future climbing.
You can also propagate by air layering, but this method is more difficult for beginners.

Once the roots are about 4-6 inches long, you can plant your monstera propagations in soil.

Frequently Asked Questions About Monstera Plants

Are monstera plants toxic?

Monstera plants are mildly toxic for humans and pets. If consumed, it can cause irritation of the mouth and stomach.

Are monstera plants easy to care for?

As far as houseplants go, the monstera is fairly hardy. If you give them the right light and water, they’ll be happy as a clam. Most people struggle with monsters by not giving them any growing support, a lack of humidity, and improper watering.

How do I know if my monstera plant is happy?

A monstera that is happy and thriving will have lots of new growth and split leaves. Unhappy monsteras will have yellow leaves, brown tips, no split leaves, slow growth, and might sprawl to try and reach sunlight.

Do you have any more questions about monstera plants? Leave them in the comments below, and I’ll do my best to answer them!

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A city girl who learned to garden and it changed everything. Author, artist, Master Gardener. Better living through plants.
Stephanie Rose

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January 19, 2026
Gorgeous Indoor Plants that LOVE the Dark

These are the best low light indoor plants! If you need to brighten up a dark corner or add a little life to your basement, one of these gorgeous low light plants are sure to do the trick. Here’s which plants thrive without rays, and how to care for them.

Adding plants to the house is my favorite way to bring a little lift to any room. Having plants around makes everything feel lighter, brighter, and more alive. Whether you are new plant parents or seasoned plant owners, houseplants add color and texture to a room, purify the air, and just look nice.

In this post, we will cover:

Jade, pothos, and a peace lily.

The Biology of Low Light Indoor Plants

But what about when you have lighting conditions that are less than ideal? Often people think you can only have house plants in bright spaces that receive plenty of nutrients from the sun. Thankfully, that isn’t always the case.

A handful of tropical, broad-leaf plants are primed for low-light conditions through basic biology: large leaves that soak up as much light as possible. Some also have a waxy outer layer that helps to retain moisture and makes them double-duty crowd-pleasers and low-maintenance indoor plants as well.

How to Care for Low Light Plants Indoors

I often get asked about the care of indoor plants that prefer low light, and my answer is always the same: it depends on the type of plant.

That being said, it is generally true that low light plants don’t require much water, so caring for them can be as simple as planting them in well-drained soil and watering on a monthly basis.

Great Read: Grow in the Dark

I originally wrote this post years ago, but I wanted to update this to include a bit of info about a fantastic resource for growing plants in the darker areas of your home. Grow in the Dark is written by the houseplant guru, Lisa Eldfred Steinbkopf.

I had the chance to meet Lisa at an event in Dallas last year after being a long time fan of her as a houseplant expert. She has another book that I refer to all the time for houseplant care, Houseplants: The Complete Guide to Choosing, Growing, and Caring for Indoor Plants.

If you’re interested in diving deep into the fascinating world of low light plants, I highly recommend grabbing a copy of Grow in the Dark. I’m including some quotes and info from Lisa throughout this post.

9 Houseplants to Grow in Low-Light Areas

Here are a few of my favorite low-light houseplants. I hope they bring as much cheer to your home as they have to mine!

1. Aglaonema (Chinese Evergreen)

Aglaonema has striking variegated leaves in shades of red, pink, yellow, and green. Pop this plant in a space that needs some color and you won’t have any need for flowers.

Chinese evergreens thrive in low-light areas and they are also very drought tolerant, so if you forget to water it for a while there will be no harm done. Perfect for people new to houseplants or those who consider themselves “black thumb gardeners.”

When choosing a Chinese evergreen, pay close attention to the color of the plant, says Steinbkopf. “The older hybrids, mostly green colored, can take low light and grow well. The newer colorful hybrids need medium light and do well in an east or west window. If placed in low light, they will lose their bright coloration.” – Grow in the Dark

2. Chlorophytum comosum (Spider Plant)

Spider plants love low light and do not require much attention other than occasional watering when the soil feels dry. They send out long spindly green foliage and small white flowers that will cascade down the edge of their container, making them a great choice for an indoor hanging basket.

3. Dracaena fragrans (Corn Plant)

These low-maintenance houseplants look like small tropical palms, so they will bring a ray of sunshine to that dim, drab area you’ve been meaning to spruce up. Place it somewhere that doesn’t get any direct sunlight and water occasionally, being careful not to overwater. Here’s a bit more info about watering this plant:

“It is important to water evenly over the whole potting medium to avoid rotting the corn plant’s canes. These canes can have small root systems and may need to be straightened after traveling home as well as later as they settle in. Be careful when straightening the canes not to firm the medium too much, which will compact it and force the oxygen out. As they grow, the root systems will get larger and be better able to support the canes.” – Grow in the Dark

Keep in mind that corn plant is toxic to a pet such as a cat or dog, so if you have a furry friend that likes to chew on the houseplants, skip this one.

4. Epipremnum aureum (Pothos / Devil’s Ivy)

If you want a plant that can lend itself to a hanging basket in a low-light spot, this one’s for you! Plant it in a basket or up on a pedestal and watch the variegated green vines trail down in an elegant display.

5. Maranta leuconeura (Prayer Plant)

Marantha leuconeura is a good choice if you want something with a low light indoor plant with bright foliage to add a pop of color to a drab area of the house because its leaves have variegation in rich green, purple, yellow, and red.

This houseplant needs to be kept out of direct sunlight in order for the variegated pattern on the leaves to remain vibrant. Plant it in well-draining soil and mist its leaves regularly. The leaves will point upwards at night like hands in prayer, which is where it got its common name “prayer plant.”

6. Phalaenopsis (Moth Orchid)

If you want something that blooms to bring a little color to a dark corner of your home, choose a moth orchid! You may need to stake the stems to give added support, but this plant thrives indoors.

They like low light and will bloom away happily if planted in a soil-less orchid mix, watered regularly, and given a simple humidity tray.

7. Sansevieria (Snake Plant)

Snake plants are known for being difficult to kill, so they are perfect for a small windowless bathroom, stairway, or bedroom corner. Sansevieria is a type of succulent, which means it retains water in its leaves and can be easy to overwater. Pay attention and only water when the soil feels completely dry to the touch, every three weeks or so.

8. Spathiphyllum (Peace Lily)

These pretty houseplants have lush, dark green leaves and delicate white flowers. In addition to being beautiful, they also do an exceptional job of cleaning the air and keeping it healthy for us. Peace lilies do well in dark or bright areas, so feel free to place these all over your home if you like!

These plants like to be kept moist and humid. Water regularly and mist the leaves as well to keep your peace lily happy and blooming. If you aren’t watering it enough, you will know because the leaves will droop.

Don’t worry, if you see this happening. Just give it a good drink and watch it perk back up in no time. Peace lilies take well to propagation. You can divide them and get new plants for other dark areas in your home.

9. Zamioculcas zamiifolia (Zee Zee Plant)

Not only does this houseplant grow happily in low-light areas of the home, but the zz plant is also very low maintenance. It can be left alone with no attention at all for long periods of time, so you can go on vacation and not worry about coming home to a dead plant. Its glossy, bright green leaves add a cheerful pop of color to any dark space.

Plus, this plant is one that can propagate! Here’s what Grow in the Dark has to say:

“The unusual part of this plant is that it can grow new plants from an individual leaflet, but it takes quite a long time. Place the cut end into moist potting medium and cover with plastic or glass. This process may take many months. The plant can also be divided.”

There you have it! Go ahead and add some plants to that drab corner–you’ll be amazed at how much more welcoming it looks and how much better you feel as a result.

More Posts About House Plants

A city girl who learned to garden and it changed everything. Author, artist, Master Gardener. Better living through plants.

Stephanie Rose

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November 8, 2025
Forcing Bulbs: Your Guide to Growing Bulbs Indoors

Gardeners, rejoice! If you’re ready for spring, start the season early by forcing bulbs to grow indoors. Not only will you get to bring some beauty into your home, but you’ll be a step ahead when it comes to your spring garden, too. Here’s everything you need to know about growing bulbs indoors.

Photo courtesy of Flowerbulb.eu

Do you ever find yourself wishing that spring could come earlier? Well, my friend, you can bring a bit of spring indoors this fall and winter with blooming spring bulbs! With a few simple techniques, you can force bulbs to grow early and create a spring garden right in your own home well before they are ready to flower outdoors.

You can make gorgeous, varied arrangements to display on your dining table or other surfaces, and you’ll be feeling sunnier in no time. Grab some bulbs and get ready to welcome spring!

This post will cover…

Bulbs can make for wonderful gifts, alongside growing instructions.

Sponsored Content: This article on forcing spring bulbs is proudly sponsored by Flowerbulb.eu (who also provided some of the gorgeous photos in this post). We partnered on this article to help remind you that fall is the best time of year to buy spring bulbs. There are a ton of great bulbs available at online retailers and in garden centres, so you certainly will have plenty of options in your area. Get your bulbs now so you can chill them in time for an early spring indoors when you need the cheery blooms the most!

Forcing Bulbs for Spring

I’m rather lucky living in the Pacific Northwest, where spring arrives earlier for me compared to other northern counterparts. Oftentimes, I am posting my spring bulbs on social media, and my friends are commenting that they’re still deep in snow!

Snow in May and June is a reality for some, making the true gardening season a few short months. However, you can still enjoy the wonders of spring even if it doesn’t feel like the season outdoors. Forcing spring bulbs is my favourite way to add some much-needed colour inside while you sit and wait to garden outside.

Tulipa Bright Sight, Orange Princess, Queensland, and Varinas, courtesy of Flowerbulb.eu

The Best Bulbs to Grow Indoors

While you could theoretically use most bulbs indoors, some will be more challenging than others. For successful and easy flowers, it’s important to pick bulbs that take well to forcing. These ones are easy to force indoors and produce gorgeous spring flowers that will brighten up your home.

I also like to grow bulbs indoors that aren’t hardy in my area. Some bulbs will only be hardy in warmer zones and won’t naturalize for the following year. Growing bulbs indoors allows you to still experience these more tender bulbs, even if you live in a colder area.

Grow some specialty varieties to really make your flowers shine indoors. Photo courtesy of Flowerbulb.eu

Choose Your Container

Bulbs can be forced in a wide variety of containers, so pick something decorative that will complement the flowers that you’ve chosen. Shallow dishes and pots make good containers for many bulbs, as do simple Mason jars.

You can find containers specifically made for bulb forcing, too—they have a wide dish at the top that narrows before widening out below again into a vase shape, so that the bulb will sit in the top above the water in the vase part.

You can easily use some of your outdoor pots for your indoor bulbs. Photo courtesy of Flowerbulb.eu

Prepare Your Bulbs

Forcing bulbs and other plants is a way of tricking them into thinking it’s time to flower earlier than they naturally would. In order to do this, you have to put the bulbs through a false “winter.”

Spring bulbs naturally go through a period of dormancy over winter, and in the spring, when the soil is warmed enough by the sun, the bulb knows that it is time to come up and bloom. What we’re doing is recreating this effect indoors and on our own time, so that we can have beautiful spring flowers blooming early.

To do this, you need to mimic the bulb’s natural life cycle by chilling it at 35-45 degrees Fahrenheit (or 2-7 degrees Celsius) for about 8-15 weeks. This creates an artificial winter.

You can chill bulbs in a cool, dark spot like a root cellar or unheated garage.

You can also put the bulbs in a brown paper bag in the refrigerator as long as you give them their own drawer away from fruits and vegetables that release ethylene gas.

If you don’t have the time to do this, you can buy bulbs that have already been chilled for you.

Muscari flowers.

Planting Bulbs Indoors

Once the bulbs have gone through their cold period, you can plant them indoors, and the transition from cold to warm will signal to them that it is time to grow and bloom.

If you are using a Mason jar or other deep vessel, fill the container up with small pebbles or marbles. Nestle the bulb into the pebbles or marbles with the pointy end facing up. About half of the bulb should be buried while the top half remains exposed. Add enough water to the container so that the bottom quarter of the bulb is submerged, but the rest of the bulb is above the water.

Make sure not to fully submerge the bulb in water so it doesn’t rot.

If you are using a shallow dish or pot, add a few pebbles to the bottom for drainage and add potting soil to the container. Plant the bulbs in the soil (again, pointy sides up) and add a little more soil on top so that they are just covered. Water thoroughly. Check the soil often and keep it moist with frequent watering.

Keep your soil moist, but make sure it’s not soggy. Drainage is important!

Sometimes you don’t even need soil to grow your bulbs. All you need is a bulb, water, and the right vase. A forcing vase is one that has a narrow top and a wide bottom. This allows the bulb to be only partly submerged in water.

If you have a forcing vase, simply fill the bottom part with water and rest the bulb inside the wide dish at the top. If you haven’t chilled your bulbs yet, place your vase in a dark, cool place and wait. After a few weeks, the roots will grow down into the water. When the flower begins to appear, bring it out for display. If your vase is clear, you even get to watch the roots grow in addition to seeing the beautiful flower bloom.

Hyacinths smell wonderful, making them a true treat indoors. Photo courtesy of Flowerbulb.eu

Decorate!

Growing bulbs indoors is all about bringing some colour and beauty to your home. Beyond the flower variety and colour, you can add a lot of elements to stylize your indoor bulb.

Give your arrangements a little something extra by adding reindeer moss, polished pebbles, or flat glass marbles around the base of the plants, and consider including some delicate deciduous branches for added structure. If you are forcing your bulbs in soil and not just water, you can plant a few pretty annuals, such as violas or primulas, in the same container for some variety.

You can also play around to make your bulbs and container match the season. Opt for pastel hues and cheery containers to create an Easter themed piece. As long as you time it right, you can have bulbs indoors year-round.

Force bulbs indoors any time of year. Photo courtesy of Flowerbulb.eu

Plant Again

After the bulbs have finished flowering and you have enjoyed your indoor display to the fullest, you can plant the bulbs out in the garden and watch them flower again for years to come. If they are hardy in your zone, you can plant them in the ground and wait for them to sping up next winter. Alternatively, you can also store them to grow them indoors again.

To do this, remove old flowers and leaves as they slowly fade away. Once the plant is finished flowering and the foliage has turned yellow, cut the stems to two inches above the bulb. Remove the bulb from the soil and gently clean off any dirt. Store in a cool, dry place until you’re ready to use it again next winter.

Tulipa Dynasty and Hyacinthus China Pink, courtesy of Flowerbulb.eu

More Spring Flower Fun!

A city girl who learned to garden and it changed everything. Author, artist, Master Gardener. Better living through plants.

Stephanie Rose

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October 16, 2025
Houseplants as Biofilters: Do Indoor Plants Really Purify the Air? – Garden Therapy
Have you heard all the buzz about how indoor plants purify the air in your home? I always see labels on plants and websites touting the power of plants in purifying. While this is true, it may not be to the extent that they’re making it out to be. Let me explain.

It’s true that plants are biofilters, a term often used for systems that use plants or microorganisms to clean air in order to combat pollution and the presence of harmful toxins.

This technology is usually used on a large scale for wastewater treatment facilities and chemical plants, but any system that filters out toxins is a biological filter…and that includes plants, animals, insects, and even you!

Does that mean that all the microbes, pollution, and viruses are filtered out of the air if you have some houseplants? There are many myths and claims out there about what houseplants can do for your air quality, so I did a little research on the truth about houseplants and air quality.

Let’s get into it!

Plants as Biofilters

The past couple of summers have been terrible for forest fires here in British Columbia. I’m lucky enough to live in a part of the province where my home wasn’t threatened by fire, but the smoke from wildfires across the province made its way here and caused me to have lung problems, headaches, and stinging eyes.

I have been so grateful to have my plants during these smoky seasons, because they make a difference in the freshness of the air, both outside in the garden and inside the house.

You can immediately notice the amazing air quality when you’re outside surrounded by plants.

All of this got me thinking a lot about air quality, and how indoor air quality is often pretty bad, wildfire season or not. Even if you’re never exposed to wildfire smoke (which I hope is the case!), with technology running constantly, forced heating in the winter, and an increase in chemicals used in everyday life, there is a need more than even for air-purifying measures to be taken within the home.

Which, of course, got me thinking about plants. There’s a lot of hype out there about how indoor plants purify the air, but I wasn’t sure how much of that was true, so I did a little research of my own to learn how plants work as biofilters and how effective they really are at cleaning up airborne toxins.

Plants produce oxygen, which removes some airborne microbes, mold spores, and bacteria from the air we breathe (thanks, plants!).

In addition to producing oxygen and cleaning up the air that way, plants also use their roots to get rid of toxins. The roots actually absorb harmful toxins and convert them into nutrients, which they then use to grow. This is the ultimate in upcycling!

Even if they don’t fully clean the air, houseplants are lovely just on their own!

Do Indoor Plants Really Purify the Air?

This is probably not the first time you’ve heard that indoor plants purify the air, but did you know that houseplants can also absorb contaminants like benzene and formaldehyde?

These might not sound like things that are hanging around your house, but many cosmetics, cleaning products, and cigarette smoke contain these, making them common toxins around many homes.

Houseplants even absorb some harmful radiation given off by technology such as computers and cellphones, but they probably can’t absorb enough of it to significantly reduce the health risks that these technologies entail.

Peace lilies are one of the most effective plant biofilters.

Although there have been a few high-profile studies done to prove the effectiveness of plants at filtering air (yes, that NASA), these studies have all been done in small, sealed environments.

Larger, open spaces like houses will not make it so easy for plants to purify the air quite as effectively and there is no evidence that they make a big enough difference to drastically improve health. That being said, they certainly can’t hurt. At the very least, houseplants will remove some toxins from the air and give you a healthy dose of indoor garden therapy.

The Best Air-Filtering Houseplants

Some indoor plants purify the air, or more accurately filter the air, more than others. Here is a list of common houseplants that draw the most toxins out of the air.
- Peace lily (Spathiphyllum ‘Mauna Loa’)
- English ivy (Hedera helix)
- Spider plant (Chlorophytum comosum)
- Snake plant or mother-in-law’s tongue (Sansevieria trifasciata’Laurentii’)
- Rubber plant (Ficus elastica)
- Elephant ear (Philodendron domesticum)
- Weeping fig (Ficus benjamina)
- Gerbera daisy or Barberton daisy (Gerbera jamesonii)
- Pot mum or florist’s chrysanthemum (Chrysantheium morifolium)
Adding a few (or a lot) of these low-maintenance houseplants to your home can make a difference in the quality of the air you breathe, but not as big a difference as many articles claim. They are a beautiful and welcoming addition around the house and can boost your mood, so I say the more houseplants, the better!

Pothos are a great beginning plant since they enjoy low light.

More Tips for Growing Houseplants

A city girl who learned to garden and it changed everything. Author, artist, Master Gardener. Better living through plants.
Stephanie Rose

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October 14, 2025
35 Best Indoor Plants for Tiny Pots and Small Spaces – Growing Family
If you’re anything like me, you can never resist a new plant – but sometimes the only pots we’ve got left are the teeny-tiny ones. Don’t be out off though: just because you’ve only got small plant pots doesn’t mean you can’t create a gorgeous little display. In fact, the right tiny plants for tiny pots can bring just as much impact as their bigger cousins, without taking up too much space.

Perfect for small spaces, shelves, desks, office space, or even miniature gardens and fairy gardens, these small indoor potted plants are a great way to add fresh greenery where you least expect it.

The trick is picking the best plants for very small pots – the ones that actually enjoy life in smaller pots and don’t sulk if they can’t spread their roots too far. That’s where this guide comes in!

Common challenges with small pots

Before we dive into the cute indoor plants themselves, let’s be real about the downsides of tiny pots. The most common issues with growing plants in small pots are:
- Drying out quickly – with less soil, water evaporates faster, so tiny plants often need more frequent watering.
- Root crowding – some house plants outgrow a mini pot in no time, so knowing when to repot is key.
- Drainage problems – excess water has nowhere to go in smaller pots without drainage holes, and this can lead to root rot.
- Lack of nutrients – less soil means plants can struggle to access nutrients, so you may need to use indoor plant food more often to keep them happy.
- Stability – top-heavy small houseplants sometimes topple if the pot is too light.
That said, with the right conditions and a bit of proper care, plants in tiny pots can absolutely thrive.

The best indoor plants for tiny pots

Here’s my pick of the best plants for small pots. Whether you’re after succulent plants, tropical plants, or carnivorous plants, there’s something for everyone.

1. African Violet (Saintpaulia)

African Violets are classic indoor plants for small pots. Their fuzzy green leaves and small flowers in purple, pink, or white are just gorgeous. They love bright light but no direct sun. You need to keep the soil evenly damp for the best blooms.

2. Areca Palm (Dypsis lutescens)

A miniature version of this palm in a smaller pot is perfect for desks. With its elegant, feathery green leaves, this tropical plant prefers bright indirect light and high humidity.

3. Asparagus Fern (Asparagus setaceus)

Not a true fern, but with delicate, airy foliage. It loves partial shade and a little extra humidity. Keep the soil just moist and don’t let it dry out completely.

4. Baby Jade Plant (Crassula ovate)

A smaller version of the classic succulent plant, with thick green leaves. It likes well-drained soil, minimal watering, and bright light.

5. Baby Rubber Plant (Peperomia obtusifolia)

A cute little addition with glossy, rounded leaves. This perfect houseplant is tough and doesn’t need much water. Great for an office space as it tolerates indirect sunlight.

6. Baby’s Tears (Soleirolia soleirolii)

This cute houseplant produces a mat of tiny green leaves that spill beautifully over a mini pot. It’s perfect in a miniature indoor garden or as ground cover for larger plants. Keep in partial shade and moist soil.

7. Boston Fern ‘Mini Russells’ (Nephrolepis exaltata)

A smaller version of the classic fern, with arching fronds that look lush in a miniature plant pot. Loves high humidity, indirect sunlight, and evenly damp soil.

8. Bunny Ear Cactus (Opuntia microdasys)

A quirky succulent plant with flat pads that look like rabbit ears. Loves bright sun and well-drained soil. Minimal watering is key – too much leads to root rot.

9. Chinese Money Plant (Pilea peperomioides)

One of the most perfect plants for tiny pots. Round, coin-shaped leaves make this a favourite for plant lovers. Likes bright indirect light and drying out a little between waterings.

10. Donkey’s Tail (Sedum morganianum)

A trailing with bead-like leaves, perfect for shelves. Needs bright sun and good drainage.

11. Dwarf Aloe (Aloe vera)

A compact succulent that thrives in bright light with minimal care. A great gift for anyone new to indoor plants.

12. Dwarf Lady Fern (Athyrium filix-femina)

This elegant fern has soft, feathery foliage and enjoys partial shade and moist soil. A delicate but resilient miniature plant.

13. Echeveria

These popular rosette-forming succulents love bright sunlight. Keep the soil dry between waterings.

14. Ivy ‘Feenfinger’ (Hedera helix)

A compact ivy with slender, finger-like leaves. Ideal for trailing from smaller pots. Likes partial shade and moist soil.

15. Mondo Grass (Ophiopogon japonicus)

Strappy, grass-like leaves perfect for a miniature garden. Tolerates partial shade and well-drained soil.

16. Nephrolepis ‘Fluffy Ruffles’

A smaller, bushy fern that thrives in high humidity. Loves bright indirect light and makes a cute little addition to a desk.

17. Nerve Plant (Fittonia)

Fittonias have striking green leaves that are veined with pink or white. It prefers indirect sunlight and high humidity. A stunning addition to a miniature garden.

18. Peace Lily (Spathiphyllum)

Compact versions of this well-known plant are suited to smaller pots. Glossy green leaves and elegant white flowers. Prefers indirect sunlight and evenly moist soil.

19. Philodendron

There are lots of smaller versions of this classic house plant. Heart-shaped leaves, trailing growth, and tolerance for low light make it a great option.

20. Pilea Glauca

Tiny silvery leaves that trail gracefully. Perfect in miniature gardens. Needs bright indirect light and a little humidity.

21. Parlour Palm (Chamaedorea elegans)

Slow-growing tropical plant that does brilliantly in low light. Great for limited space.

22. Polka Dot Plant (Hypoestes phyllostachya)

Bright splashes of pink, red, or white on the leaves. Loves bright indirect light. Pinch back tips to keep it compact in smaller pots.

23. Pothos (Epipremnum aureum)

Fast-growing, trailing, and very forgiving, Pothos is a perfect houseplant for beginners. Handles low light and minimal care.

24. Prayer Plant (Calathea)

Known for their bold patterned leaves, Calatheas love high humidity and indirect sunlight. A good option if you want striking tropical plants.

25. Purple Shamrock (Oxalis triangularis)

Beautiful purple leaves that fold at night. Also produces small flowers in pale pink. Likes bright indirect light.

26. Scotch Moss (Sagina subulata)

A soft, cushion-like mat of green that’s brilliant in fairy gardens. Needs moist soil and partial shade.

27. Snake Plant (Sansevieria)

Smaller cultivars of Sansevieria will thrive in tiny pots. The upright, sword-like leaves can tolerate bright light or low light, and minimal watering.

28. String of Hearts (Ceropegia woodii)

A trailing succulent with heart-shaped leaves. Needs bright indirect light and a dry spell between waterings.

29. String of Pearls (Senecio rowleyanus)

An iconic succulent plant with bead-like leaves. Best in bright light and well-drained soil. Avoid excess water.

30. String of Turtles (Peperomia prostrata)

Tiny round leaves patterned like turtle shells. Ideal for mini pots in bright indirect light.

31. Sweetheart Plant (Hoya Kerrii)

That heart-shaped leaf is the ultimate cute plant. Often sold as a single leaf in a mini pot. Needs bright indirect light and a light watering touch.

32. Tradescantia

Trailing house plant with stripy purple leaves. Loves bright indirect light. Pinch tips for a fuller look.

33. Venus Flytrap (Dionaea muscipula)

One of the most interesting plants you can grow in a tiny pot. A true carnivorous plant. Needs bright sunlight, moist soil, and distilled water only.

34. Weeping Fig (Ficus benjamina)

Choose a smaller version for a mini pot. Glossy leaves, elegant growth. Likes bright indirect light.

35. Zebra Cactus (Haworthia)

A succulent with stripy, spiky leaves. Enjoys bright indirect light and needsv minimal care.

Care tips for indoor plants

So you’ve chosen your plants for tiny pots, and now you need to make sure they thrive! These care tips will help you keep them happy.
- Choosing the right location: Depending on the plant, you may need a spot in bright indirect light, partial shade, or direct sun. Check out the care instructions on the plant label, or look them up online if there isn’t one.
- Drainage: Always use a pot with drainage holes to avoid root rot. If that’s not possible, add a layer of gravel at the bottom of the pot.
- Watering: Tiny pots dry quickly, so check the soil often. When you water, do it sparingly – excess water is the quickest way to kill mini plants.
- Feeding: A plant food designed for indoor plants will keep miniature plants happy. Always use plant food according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
- Cleaning leaves: Dust off large leaves with a damp cloth or soft brush.
- Pest control: Keep an eye out for aphids, mealybugs, or spider mites. Catching them early makes life much easier.
- Repotting: When your small plants outgrow their mini pots, move them to a larger pot with well-drained soil.
Useful tools for plants in tiny pots

You don’t need lots of kit to care for small indoor plants, but there are a few items that will make you a better plant parent:
- Miniature hand trowel – makes planting and repotting so much easier.
- Spray mister – essential for humidity-loving plants like ferns or fittonia.
- Indoor watering can – with a slim spout to avoid splashes, and ideally a rose attachment for when you need to water gently.
- Pruning snips – perfect for trimming back tiny plants or deadheading small flowers.
- Support sticks and clips – keep taller plants upright in smaller planters.
- Watering indicator – helps you avoid both drought and excess water.
Tiny pots don’t mean you’re limited to boring plant options – far from it. With the right plants for small pots, you can create a miniature garden on your windowsill, add cute plants to your office space, or even grow carnivorous plants like a Venus flytrap for fun. From succulent plants like string of pearls to leafy beauties like African violets, there’s a perfect plant for every corner.

So next time you come across a mini pot, don’t think of it as a limitation – think of it as an opportunity to try something new. These little plants pack in plenty of style, without taking up too much space.

More houseplant inspiration

Pin for later: Best Indoor Plants for Tiny Pots
Catherine

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September 27, 2025
Which Herbs to Grow Indoors (and Which Ones NOT to) – Garden Therapy
Herbs are outdoor plants. There are many plants that can grow well as houseplants, but herbs are not among them. But that doesn’t mean that you shouldn’t choose certain herbs to grow indoors. This article covers which herbs to grow indoors, as well as some that you should leave outside.

If you’re a foodie, you know that having fresh herbs at the ready makes all the difference when it comes to at-home cooking. So I can understand the desire to have an indoor herb garden at the ready!

Herbs don’t grow nearly as well indoors as they do outdoors, but you can still have a good supply of fresh herbs if you give them the best conditions possible. Indoor herbs are ideal for those who live in small spaces or during the winter when your outdoor herb garden is hibernating.

Here are the best herbs to grow indoors (and which ones you might want to avoid!).

You can also overwinter some of your outdoor herbs inside.

Herbs to Grow Indoors

Leafy Herbs

These leafy herbs grow quickly and are the easiest to grow indoors. You can clip a few leaves for garnishing and salads regularly. When the plant looks a bit droopy and sad, move it outdoors and plant another one. Luckily, these are often inexpensive as well, so they’re ideal for using and replacing when needed.
- Chives
- Lemon Balm
- Mint
- Parsley (Flat Italian Parsley or Curled Parsley)
- Tarragon
- Vietnamese Coriander
Evergreen Herbs

These evergreen /evergreen-ish herbs like to live outdoors where the sun shines brightly, the soil keeps their roots dry, and there is enough cold for a period of rest.

They are a bit harder to grow indoors as they are slow-growing and slow to adapt to limited light conditions. They may not survive more than a few months, but they look gorgeous in a living planter, and you can certainly harvest a few clippings from them when needed.

Propagate a few of your outdoor perennial herb clippings to bring indoors for the winter.

Honourable Mention

Curry plant is very pretty and makes for a nice addition to indoor gardens. It is not cold-hardy, so it prefers to be indoors in a warmer climate than some of the other herbs. That being said, curry is a pretty plant that is aromatic in a herb garden.

As a culinary herb, much of the aroma is lost when cooking, and it doesn’t seem to add much flavour. So if you choose to have this in your herb garden indoors, do so for the aromatics and aesthetics.

Curry plant is a personal favourite herb of mine.

Herbs to Keep Outside
- Dill – This herb is huge! It’s far too large for an indoor garden.
- Fennel – As with dill, fennel is big and best left outdoors.
- Basil – basil can be really hard to grow indoors. You could certainly plant it to keep the herbs fresh for longer than those that are cut, but basil is happiest in the ground with lots of bright sun and compost-rich soil.
- Cilantro – while it looks like parsley, I find it hard to grow enough cilantro indoors to make it worth my while. Without strong direct light, the stems are thin and leggy, and the leaves stay small. You can plant it densely and cut a few stems at a time, but I like to add a lot, and growing it indoors is just too much effort for what it produces.
- Chamomile – chamomile flowers are what make this herb special, and you will be hard-pressed to get it to flower indoors without adequate light.
- Garlic – garlic is more of a vegetable in that you harvest the roots to eat. It also takes a long time to grow with a cool season in between.
More Tips for Growing Herbs

A city girl who learned to garden and it changed everything. Author, artist, Master Gardener. Better living through plants.
Stephanie Rose

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September 23, 2025
African Violet Care: Proper Care and Propagation Tips – Garden Therapy
With fuzzy leaves and pretty flowers that come in white, purple, and blue, African violets are a charming houseplant. This guide will show you exactly how to help your favourite houseplant thrive with African violet care tips that really work. Plus, learn how to propagate your plants too!

African violets are known as friendship plant and are often used as a symbol of loyalty, devotion, and faithfulness. For those reasons, it’s long been a favourite for gifting! Whether you purchased one of these cheerful plants or received one as a gift, this guide will help you keep them thriving.

I’ll show you how to care for African violets as well as some of my propagation tips so you can have violets galore! It truly is the gift that keeps giving.

With proper care, African violets can provide almost continuous blooms in a rainbow of colours and leaf shapes. Although flower size, petal type, and colour vary widely, plants generally grow from four to seven inches tall, with hairy leaves and tightly grouped clusters of flowers.

The African violet belongs to the family Saintpaulia and is native to Africa. They are one of the most popular cultivated houseplants in the world today and are particularly well suited to the home environment. There are now thousands of varieties in existence, with new hybrids being developed almost daily.

So, without further ado, here’s my African violet care guide!

While they may appear similar, African violets are not part of the violet family, Violaceae.

Basics of African Violet Care

Although African Violets are hardy little plants, they still require their own unique care. Follow these steps and you will have a happy little plant that likes to share their blooms with you.

Wicking African Violets for Better Water Delivery

Proper watering is essential to African violet care. In fact, keeping these plants healthy often comes down to watering. By far, the most common way to kill an African violet is to overwater it. There are a few things you can do to ensure you are properly watering your violet.

Always water at the base of the plant, and avoid getting water on the leaves. Leaves are susceptible to rot if they get too moist. You also want to ensure you only water with room temperature water as cold water can chill the roots and cause your leaves to curl downwards. Only water once a week and allow the plant to completely dry between waterings.

One ingenious way of making sure your African violets are never over-watered is by setting up a wicking system. To do so, draw three lengths of string from different points at the base of the plant down through the soil and out the hole at the bottom of the pot. With marbles or small stones, raise the pot off the drip tray by at least half an inch. Secure the strings under the layer of stones.

When you place water in the tray, it is drawn up through the strings into the planting medium where the roots have safe access to it. This method of watering ensures that the plant receives a regular source of moisture but is never left with its roots sitting in water.

With the right care, African violets can live up to 50 years!

The Best Soil for African Violets

For African violets to flourish, they require a special soil composed of two parts peat moss alternatives, one part perlite, and one part standard potting mix. This keeps the soil well-aerated. The soil should be loose and well-drained. You can also add organic matter to the mix if you wish.

When selecting pots, the smaller the better! African violets do well in small pots and don’t necessarily need to be repotted very often. You can repot into a slightly larger pot once a year, but they also will flourish and produce more blooms when rootbound.

African Violet Care – Keeping Them Healthy

African violets are very hardy and do best in indirect or filtered sunlight. If it is getting too much light, you may notice brown spots forming on the plant. On the opposite side, a violet that is not getting enough light will produce thin, dark leaves and leggy stems. Other indicators include yellowing leaves and failure to produce blooms.

To ensure your plant is getting equal amounts of light, try rotating the pot every time you water. Otherwise, you may notice your plant reaching for the light. This isn’t unique to violets and is actually a good routine to implement for most houseplants.

I recommend fertilizing your violets every two weeks during the spring and summer seasons. They also need an acidic fertilizer specially designed for them. You can fertilize with specific African violet food or a fertilizer with a high phosphorous level. I make my own fertilizer and use it on all my houseplants. If you notice reduced flowers and pale leaves, it could mean that your violet is not getting enough fertilizer.

When it comes to temperature, your African violet will follow you. If you feel comfortable, so will your African violet. They also really like humidity, so if that’s something you also enjoy, then you have even more traits in common!

Although their temperature requirements are not critical if they are maintained in the home, they should be kept well back from the window if temperatures outside are going to be near or below freezing.

Encouraging More Blooms

Most people buy African violets to appreciate their blooms. When we fail to get blooms or have very few, that’s when we begin to scratch our heads. If there are no flowers, it could mean the plant is not getting enough light. Alternatively, violets need at least eight hours of darkness to bloom which could be an issue if you use grow lights.

Another reason could actually be too many leaves. Each rosette of leaves will produce one round of flowers. If you prune off the largest outer layer of leaves, it will encourage more violet blooms.

As mentioned earlier, keeping your violet rootbound can also encourage them to bloom. Finally, always remove spent flowers and foliage to encourage your violet to produce more. Look at your violet and see if any of these may be the culprit behind zero blooms!

Propagating African Violets

Who doesn’t want a ton of tiny little African violets!? I like to propagate African violets often since they look so lovely in clusters. Always be sure to start off with more cuttings than you think you’ll need, as all of them may not be successful.

Whether you want more or you are propagating a bunch for gifting, this is my surefire way to propagate violets.

Propagating African violets from cuttings are the easiest way to get more plants.
1. Choose healthy leaves from the middle of the plant, as the outer ones will be too old and the inner ones will be too young.
2. Make a cutting at the base of the stem, careful to leave no stem on the host plant as it will rot. Shorten your cuttings to one inch.
3. Water your soil and place it into SMALL containers. Poke a pencil in the soil to make room for the stem.
4. Optional. Lightly dip your stem into a rooting hormone and tap off the excess. This will help encourage the leaf to grow roots.
5. Place your stem into the soil, letting the tip of the leaf just touch the surface of the soil. Pat down the soil firmly.
6. Put a support behind your leaf to help hold it up.
7. Optional. Place your pots in a makeshift greenhouse, such as an empty salad container. This will help to keep the humidity level in and keep warm temperatures.
8. Place your cutting in a well-lit, bright spot that won’t get too hot. Wait and be patient!
9. Transplant when the leaf has sprouted a good root system and a few small leaflets have grown.
Wait until there are some leaflets formed before planting your cuttings.

African Violet Care FAQs

Can you propagate African violets from seed?

Most people choose to propagate African violets from cuttings or plant divisions, but it is possible to grow them from seed. However, you need to cross-pollinate two plants for the plant to produce seeds, and the resulting seeds may not be the same type of African violet as the parents.

For this reason, it’s best to purchase seeds from a reputable seller rather than try to save the seeds yourself. I have not personally grown African violets from seed, but other sources say they’re fairly simple to start from seed.

Why are my African violet blooms small?

Your flowers can change based on the conditions in which they grew. When you first get them, they might have big blooms because they grew in a greenhouse with optimal conditions. At your home, they might have less sunlight or fertilizer than they’re used to, so they’ll produce smaller blooms. The more favourable the conditions, the bigger the blooms will be.

How many times a year do African violets bloom?

When properly cared for, African violets can bloom year-round. To encourage more blooms, make sure to deadhead any spent blooms by trimming them with sterilized scissors. Correct light is also essential.

I hope by now, African violets are a little less intimidating than they were before! With a little planning and understanding, African violets can beautify your home and be fun and easy to grow.

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Stephanie Rose

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October 21, 2024
Cat-Safe Houseplants: 20 Plants to Fill a Plant-Friendly Home

It’s safe to say those with cats love their pets! We’d do anything for them, including giving away all our peace lilies and jade plants in case our cats felt like munching away. But that doesn’t mean you can’t still have a home full of greenery! Here are 20 cat-safe houseplants to keep your feline friend safe all while satisfying your plant obsession.

When I brought in a stray, I had to ensure my house was kitty-proof. A big part of that was only including cat-safe houseplants throughout the home. We all know cats can be mischievous creatures and my cat Magic sure lives up to the expectations.

From knocking over plants to playing in the dirt, he, of course, is known for nibbling on the occasional plant or two. If he isn’t munching the entire plant, the occasional bite or two of these cat-safe houseplants will do no harm.

There are many many different houseplants you can include in the home, some more common than others. If you’re looking to add some greenery to your home (don’t we all!), here are some houseplants that are totally safe for kitties.

My cat Magic!

20 Cat-Safe Houseplants

To keep cats from your houseplants, try covering the soil with thick and pointy rocks or other pokey surfaces. You can also try hanging plants if your feline friend can’t help but get up to no good. Otherwise, these houseplants should be A-okay to have around cats.

1. Cast Iron Plant

Let’s start things off with something a little indestructible, shall we? Just as the name suggests, the cast iron plant is pretty hardy and difficult to kill. Not only are they good for beginners, but they may even be able to handle a cat swat or two and easily make it onto this list of cat-safe houseplants.

They look similar to peace lilies, a popular houseplant that is highly toxic to cats. Arching leaves over 2 feet long and 4 inches wide are the main attraction. Come summer, you can place them on the deck where they can grow slowly and get lots of shade.

2. Spider Plant

By far one of the easiest plants to grow, spider plants have slender leaves that can be green and white striped. They grow long stems with tiny flowers that turn into tiny plantlets. You will get a ton of little spider babies from one plant.

This also makes them great hanging plants. To care for them, place them in indirect light and provide regular waterings.

Read these tips on how to make your spider plant bushier.

3. Staghorn Fern

I adore my staghorn fern! Essentially the plant version of deer antlers, they are an artsy and trendy-looking plant that mounts on the wall. This is ideal for cat owners, keeping plants well out of reach. And even if they did somehow make it to the staghorn fern, they’re a cat-friendly houseplant.

Long, flat leaves extend over a root ball that drinks up the water. I like to set mine in a bowl and then turn the shower on to give them a nice soak, similar to how I water air plants.

Such a unique plant, staghorn ferns can go right on the wall and out of the way of paws.

4. Haworthia

Succulent lovers, you can safely grow haworthia in a cat household. With lots of different species out there, most are small houseplants with thick, fleshy leaves. They can have white bands or wart-like but pretty markings.

They enjoy bright light when inside and partial shade when outside because, yes, you can bring them out there for the summer! Don’t overwater these guys, but keep them moist during the summer.

Haworthia pumila, also known as the Miniature Aloe

5. Peperomia

A compact houseplant, there are over 1500 species of peperomia. Most have round, thick, and beautiful leaves. They are slow-growing and relatively low-maintenance plants that enjoy indirect sunlight.

Many peperomia have variegated leaves and cool markings.

6. Bird Nest Fern

A certified shade lover, bird nest fern has the cutest crinkly leaves. They can grow up to 3 feet long, with new leaves growing from the centre of the plant.

In nature, they grow high on the tops of trees. They enjoy warmth, humidity, and moisture, making the bathroom a great spot for these houseplants.

7. Rattlesnake Plant

The rattlesnake plant has some of the most beautiful leaves, full of purplish tones, variegated patterns, and wavy edges. The leaves can grow up to 30 inches tall.

Native to Brazil’s rainforests, they like partial shade and moist, well-drained soil. They aren’t as easy to grow as some of the plants on this list, but they sure are worth the effort!

8. Air Plants

Another unique and fun plant, I’m so obsessed with air plants that I even wore them as living jewelry. These plants cling to trees in nature, getting moisture through the air rather than having roots.

Since they don’t require soil, you can also place them on the wall or in a hanging terrarium or even make your own displays. Like a staghorn fern, you can soak them in water to hydrate them.

9. Bamboo Palm

If you’re looking for a big plant, the bamboo palm brings a tropical feel to any room. A type of palm (not bamboo), it can do well in varying lighting, ranging from medium to low light. As far as big houseplants go, this one is fairly low maintenance.

10. Money Tree

Money trees are a household favourite, known for bringing good luck to the home and a feng shui go-to. A fairly hardy tree, they can grow quickly and will happily take up a corner.

When purchasing, most nurseries will have the stems braided. You can continue to braid them at home to maintain the shape if desired.

11. Prayer Plant

Prayer plants get their name because they actually move throughout the day. The leaves lay flat during the day and slowly lift up in prayer at night. Beautiful and decorative, prayer plants like greenhouse conditions, meaning warm, moist air and lots of fertilizer will make them happy

As an added bonus, this plant thrives in the dark, too!

12. Ponytail Palm

In the wild, ponytail palms grow to be a full-sized tree. In the home, however, they can grow up to 6 feet in their old age if taken care of. One of the easiest trees to grow indoors, they have a bulbous stem that thin, long leaves erupt from.

13. Orchid

Every housewarming party has at least one orchid. If they have a cat, it is perfect because they are a cat-friendly houseplant. Good for beginners, orchids have arching flowers that can last for weeks. With the right balance of humidity, light, and temperature, an orchid can thrive for a long time.

14. Zebra Plant

Zebra plants can sure be a challenge to grow indoors, but they are well worth it. Not only do they have dark, gorgeous leaves with white veins, but the bright yellow flowers are like no other. If happy, they will have 2-4 flowers a plant that lasts for six weeks.

This zebra plant is next to a cyclamen (the one with the flowers), which IS poisonous to pets.

15. African Violet

Compact, African violets don’t mind sticking to a small container. Known most for their flowers, they can bloom up to three times a year with violet, white, blue, pink, red, or combo-coloured flowers.

To take care of them, avoid getting water on their leaves, remove any dead flowers, give them good drainage, and place them in bright, indirect light.

16. Lucky Bamboo

From offices to the kitchen, you can find lucky bamboo everywhere. They are said to bring good luck and make for a good gift, often coming braided or twisted.

Very hard to kill, lucky bamboo can live in pure water or soil, tolerating both drought and moist conditions. Chances are, they can also handle a munch from a curious cat and easily join this list of cat-safe houseplants.

17. Christmas Cactus

Since poinsettias are quite poisonous to cats, a Christmas cactus is the perfect alternative for the festive plant. They bloom right around the holiday season, adding a pop of colour when it’s cold outside.

The blooms can be pink, red, purple, and orange. Native to rainforest, they need more water and less light than regular desert cacti.

18. Lipstick Plant

Here’s another flowering cat-safe houseplant for you! Lipstick plants have small, waxy, vine-like leaves. Easy to care for yet impressive looking, they grow red tubular flowers in clusters that almost resemble lipstick tubes.

They tend to bloom most in the summer and fall, but you can get plenty of blooms throughout the year from one plant.

19. Swedish Ivy

If you want ivy that’s okay for cats, try Swedish ivy. The thick stems grow straight up before they cascade down. Also known as creeping Charlie, the round leaves have scalloped edges and are often variegated. Use them as a hanging plant or bring them outside on the deck during the summer.

2o. Polka Dot Plant

Polka dot plants make for another poinsettia alternative, with the most popular colouring being the pink leaves with white spots. An eye-catching plant, the spotted leaves also come in white, purple, and green varieties.

Some people also plant them outside as an annual. If your cat likes to go outdoors, this polka dot plant may also be a good option for the garden.

House Plants Poisonous to Cats

A ton of popular houseplants are not ideal to have in homes with cats. Some of the most common houseplants poisonous to cats include poinsettias, aloe vera, peace lilies, English ivy, and a ton more. To learn all of the poisonous houseplants and some alternatives to try, check out my full list here.

Poinsettias are a common Christmas plant that is poisonous to cats.

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Stephanie Rose

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June 28, 2024
How to Germinate Seeds: 4 Steps to Master Germination – Garden Therapy
It all begins with a seed. The very first step to having a lush garden begins with successfully learning how to germinate seeds. When you’ve got all the right conditions in place, germinating seeds is actually quite easy! Here’s what you need to know.

Spring is such a giddy season for gardeners. Even before Mother Nature is ready for us, we can get a head start inside by starting seeds.

But have you ever potted up a whole bunch of seeds only to have a few—or even NO—seeds actually sprout?

Germination is when a seed sprouts, and while it is fairly easy, you still need to ensure you have the four growing conditions cemented in place to have a tray full of successfully germinated seeds.

This post exclusively covers how to germinate seeds. For a full guide on how to start seeds, including containers, growing conditions, and transplanting tips, head to my seed starting 101 post.

Let’s get into germinating seeds!

All plants have different number of days until germination occurs. So, if it’s been a week, don’t lose faith!

How to Germinate Seeds

These are the four conditions you must consider if you want to germinate seeds. Get them all right, and you’ll have seeds sprouting galore.

1. Soil

Moisture is a critical part of the germination process, and good-quality soil is needed to keep things moist but not soggy.

In most cases, regular potting soil will work fine for your seeds. But if you struggle to get seeds to germinate or have plenty of seeds to start, it’s worthwhile to invest in or make a seed-starting soil mixture.

A seed starting mix is sterile and offers balanced moisture retention and drainage. It also has fine particles that allow seedlings to root easily.

Seed starting soil doesn’t require any additional fertilizer or nutrients, as the seed will have everything needed for germination. But once the seedling has developed its “true leaves,” it’s time to move it into a transplant soil mix, which will have more nutrients.

You can find both my seed starting and my transplant mix soil recipes in this post.

Your seed starting soil should be able to retain moisture while also not getting soggy.

2. Moisture

Seedlings need plenty of moisture to germinate. Even plants that will one day be drought tolerant are very delicate when young and will die off quickly if they dry out.

Check your moisture levels daily, and always start off with damp soil before planting seeds. Water the seedlings from the bottom to prevent disrupting them.

A plastic dome acts as a mini greenhouse and is very efficient at keeping up humidity levels for seedlings. Most seed starting trays come with a plastic lid, but you can easily make one with a recycled salad container or any other clear plastic container with a lid.

Cut a few holes in the lid for airflow. Remove the lid daily to allow air exchange, and remove it completely when the seedlings emerge. Air circulation is important to prevent damping off.

Daily venting is essential to prevent any soil fungus that thrives in cool, wet conditions.

3. Light

In most cases, seeds actually don’t require any sunlight to germinate. The seed has stored all the energy it needs to emerge once the conditions (moisture and temperature) are right. You can germinate your seeds away from sunlight or a grow light, moving them into light upon germination.

But in some cases, the seeds will actually need light to germinate. This is usually indicated on the seed packet, but if not, anything that sits on top of the soil or is very shallow in the soil often needs light for germination.

Grow lights can be extremely handy for starting seedlings.

4. Soil Temperature

For those who struggle to get seeds to germinate, I often ask them if they have considered soil temperature. It often gets pushed to the wayside in favor of other conditions like water and light.

Most seeds have a desirable soil temperature for sprouting. Solanaceous vegetables prefer higher temperatures, like tomatoes, peppers, and eggplants. Meanwhile, Brassicas, such as broccoli and cabbage, like cool soil to germinate.

Greenhouses are very efficient at keeping higher temperatures, but they often require space and materials the average gardener doesn’t have. That’s where seedling heating pads come in handy. They’re fairly inexpensive and will really speed up germination. Keep the mats on 24/7 until germination to maintain stable, warm soil.

Just remember that most seedlings like cooler temperatures, so remove the seed mats once the plant has germinated.

Peppers like warm soil, and it can affect how spicy the peppers will be.

Germination Tests

Packaged seeds are tested for their germination rates (the percentage of seeds that will sprout). Germination rates decline as seeds age, vary by variety, and can be altered by storage conditions and other factors.

Newly purchased seeds do not need germination testing. Overall, you don’t need to do a germination test. Seeds are cheap, but your time is not! However, if you have seeds that are many years old or that you have collected yourself give a germination test a try.

To perform a germination test, follow the instructions listed below in germinating seeds in a paper towel.

Any new seeds won’t require a germination test. They’re only for older seeds.

How to Germinate Seeds in Paper Towel

Germinating seeds in paper towel is quite simple and a good way to test out older seeds before committing to using up other materials and space to grow them.

Here’s how to germinate seeds in paper towel:
1. Fold a paper towel in half and wet it with a spray bottle of water. Place ten seeds inside the fold of the paper towel and cover it.
2. Place the paper towel in the plastic bag (it can be folded). Close the bag partly to create a mini greenhouse. The bag needs to have some airflow, so keep part of it open. Label the bag with the seed variety and date.
3. Set the bag in a warm spot such as on top of the refrigerator.
4. Each day, check the seeds for signs of sprouting and mist the paper towel. Seeds should sprout within 3 to 10 days or as indicated for the variety.
If you’re performing a germination test, low germination rates are less than 85%. In this case, you’ll want to plant extra seeds when you sow them. If it’s quite low, compost the seeds altogether and purchase new ones.

If you want to plant these seeds, place smaller seeds on top of moist soil. Plant deeper seeds as indicated on their seed packet. Use tweezers if necessary to move the seeds. If the paper towel is stuck to the root, cut it and plant it with the seed rather than trying to remove it.

Make sure to label your germination test with the seed variety and date.

More Tips for Starting Seeds
Stephanie Rose

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April 3, 2024
How to Get Started Growing Your Own Food
For many new gardeners, growing your own food may seem like a daunting (or even impossible) task. When you get right down to it, there are only a few key components you need for a healthy garden – but of course, there are many variables that can impact the overall results. I believe that anyone can learn to grow their own food successfully, whether you have a windowsill or an expansive backyard. Like with culinary nutrition and cooking, start with what you have and learn basic techniques before moving on to the complexities. In this guide to growing your own food, I’ll show you how to get started!

Benefits of Growing Your Own Food

Reduce Food Waste

Growing your own food cuts back on food waste in a big way. When you grow your own food, you have the ability to use the “ugly food” that most stores throw out because it isn’t market-pretty. You are able to harvest only what you need so nothing sits in your fridge or wilts before you have had a chance to use it.

More Nutrients

Fruits, vegetables, and herbs have more nutrients when grown in healthy soil. Food starts to lose nutrients as soon as it’s harvested. Most produce at grocery stores are picked days or even weeks before and often transported from far-away farms.

Great Taste

Seasonal, just-harvested food tastes fresh and delicious! You might be surprised by what selective eaters (both adults and children!) will eat when they’ve had a hand in growing their food or can easily sample fresh from the garden.

Save Money

Growing your own food can also help you save money at the grocery store. While there can be some initial investment when purchasing seeds, soil and other things you need to get started, once you get into the flow you’ll likely be making fewer trips to the grocery store.

Exercise and Vitamin D

Growing your own food, particularly if you have access to outdoor spaces versus growing your own food indoors, will help you to stay active and get fresh air and Vitamin D – just ensure you practice safe sun protection.

Improved Mental Health

Being in nature and exposed to greenery and plants through gardening helps to improve mental health and cognition, as well as lower stress levels and reduce feelings of isolation (especially for those who use community gardens).

Knowing the basics of what plants need will help get you started with growing your own food. Let’s get growing!

Growing Your Own Food: What You Need

Soil

There are many reasons to grow your own food and it all starts with the soil. Healthy living soil is the foundation of a thriving garden. It’s the microbiome of the garden, teaming with microbes, bacteria and other organisms that help feed plants by breaking down the nutrients in the soil. Healthy soil has worms, fungi and other organic matter. It’s a web of life, whereas dirt is considered dead, lacks nutrients or any of the organic matter that helps to grow food.

Our soil isn’t what it used to be when our great grandparents were tending their gardens; we now have to build up our soil by amending it with things like compost, mycorrhizae fungi, worm castings, kelp meal, etc. Soil health is what contributes to the nutrients in the fruits and vegetables we eat. So when we have nutrient-depleted soil, we likely have nutrient-depleted food crops.

Soil is the most important component of your garden, and it’s where you’ll want to focus your budget above anything else. There are many garden soil recipes and mixes you can make or buy. A popular recipe is:
- 50% topsoil
- 30% compost and
- 20% other organic matter like chicken manure, vermicompost, mushroom compost, composted cow manure at a rate of 5% each
Avoid peat – it just isn’t sustainable. You can buy bagged soil at a garden center or home improvement store that is labeled for your growing method or purchase it in bulk.

Soil Buying Tip

When it comes to buying soil in bulk you definitely want to go to the soil yard to see it and feel it. Hold a clump in your hand and squeeze it. Does it fall apart immediately? Is it still clumpy? Does it mostly stay formed but falls away? You want your soil to stay formed a little bit, but also loose enough that it can be crumbled easily.

You will want to continue to work on your soil health each season by adding amendments. Organic compost is my number one recommendation.

Sunlight

Most edible plants need at least 6 hours of sunlight per day to produce enough energy to fully mature or set fruit. Some plants require more than 6 hours of sunlight, preferring 8 hours. These are some general guidelines for how much sun specific plants need:
- Fruiting plants like eggplant, melons, peppers, and tomatoes want 8 hours of direct sun.
- Root producing vegetables want a minimum of 6 hours of sunlight (8 is better) and these include radishes, parsnips, carrots, turnips, beets, and potatoes.
- Leafy greens can handle less sunlight; about 2–4 hours of direct sun and some prefer shade during the hottest parts of the day depending on your location and season.
- Most herbs prefer 4+ hours of sun per day.
Why Is Sunlight Important?

Plants that do not get enough sunlight will be weaker, and may not reach maturity or be smaller than their intended size. Keep this in mind when setting up your growing space because it will help determine what you can grow successfully.

Water

Too much or too little water can be detrimental. More plants die from over-watering than under-watering. Unfortunately, there isn’t a one size fits all schedule. It is very dependent upon the temperature, rain, wind, and microclimate of your garden area.

You want to have 1 inch/2.54 cm per week of water for your garden with the low and slow method. This means you water deeply, less frequently, and at the surface of the soil. Roots will seek out water, if you water shallow, the roots will be shallow. Watering deeply means the roots will seek out the water deeper in the soil and as a result, will be stronger and more drought-tolerant.

You have the option of hand watering, drip irrigation, soaker hoses, and emitter tubing.

Watering Tip!

One way to check if your plants need water is by putting your finger down into the soil and pulling it out; if it is dry or mostly dry, your plants need more water.

Growing Your Own Food: Planting Tips

Knowing what to plant each season, along with the plant size and space requirements, will help you create a productive garden. Most fruits and vegetables in each plant family have the same needs for optimal growing (water, season, space, nutrients, whether they like to be direct sowed or can do well as a transplant, etc.).

The cool season consists of temperatures between 35°F to 65°F (1.6°C to 18.3°C). Some cool-season plant families include:
- Brassicaceae (arugula, broccoli, kale, cabbage, etc.)
- Apiaceae (carrots, celery, cilantro, dill, fennel, etc.)
- Fabaceae (peas and beans)
The warm season is 65° F to 85°F (18.3°C to 29.4°C). Some warm-season plants families include:
- Solanaceae (tomatoes, peppers, potatoes, eggplant, etc.)
- Cucurbitaceae (cucumber, watermelon, summer and winter squash, etc.)
- Lamiaceae (basil, sage, rosemary, oregano, etc.)
The hot season is temperatures between 70°F to over 90°F (21°C to over 32°C). Hot season plant families include:
- Convolvulaceae (sweet potato)
- Gramineae (lemon grass, corn, millet)
For more about this, check out Kitchen Garden Revival: a Modern Guide to Creating a Stylish Small-Scale, Low-Maintenance Edible Garden, by Nicole Johnsey Burke and Eric Kelley, pp. 121–121.

As a general rule, when sowing seeds, plant them at a depth that is 2–3 times their width. I highly suggest looking into intensive planting and square foot gardening for spacing plants. Often the spacing recommendations on seed packets are meant for farmers who are using industrial machines. With square foot or intensive planting, you can grow plants closer together. Intensive planting uses similar spacing guides as square foot gardening without planting in exact squares.

Harvesting and Succession Planting

Whichever way you plant, you need to harvest often, taking no more than ⅓ of each plant. Succession planting is key to having a continual harvest. Succession planting means spacing out sowing your seeds by 2–3 weeks so as one set matures others are in various stages of growth. This ensures that you won’t have any single crop coming to maturity at the same time.

You can do this all season long until you reach the spot when there won’t be enough time for the plant to reach maturity before the first fall frost. (If they are not frost-tolerant.) To know when this is, simply look at your seed packet, look for days to maturity, then count back from your first frost date. You can search online for your local frost dates quite easily.

Tending To Your Plants

Tending your garden is pretty simple. It requires that you pay attention to your plants, their watering needs and that you harvest often. This will help you catch any pest issues before they become a big problem and allows you to remove diseased parts of your plants before they can spread.

If you have quality soil and have amended it with compost you shouldn’t need to feed your plants in a single season, except for heavy feeders like squash and tomatoes that will want to be fed every 2–3 weeks. The choice of what to use goes beyond the scope of this post, but I suggest always using organic fertilizers/amendments. Ensure you follow the directions and remember that when it comes to fertilizer of any kind, more does not mean better.

Growing Your Own Food On a Windowsill

If you live in an apartment or condo and do not have access to a balcony or patio you can grow herbs on a sunny windowsill. All you need is:
- a pot with good drainage
- a tray to catch water
- quality soil specifically for containers
- some herbs to transplant
You will want to make sure that the mature size of your herbs will fit in the container you have chosen and that your windowsill gets 4+ hours of direct sunlight (6 is even better). I recommend containers that are 6 inches deep for healthy roots. There are also small hydroponic garden kits that come with lights and growing medium if you do not have enough light in your space or a good window.

When growing in containers it is important to water consistently at the soil level and feed as suggested on the food package. You also have the option to grow microgreens or sprouts. You can use any food-safe container and quality soil or mats that are specifically made for growing microgreens.

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What Else Can I Grow On a Windowsill?

You can grow basil, kale, peas, broccoli, and pretty much any seed you would grow in a culinary garden.

Growing Your Own Food on a Patio or Balcony

You can grow many varieties of fruits, vegetables, and herbs on a patio or balcony with the right amount of sunlight. Sunlight will determine what you can grow. If you do not have a lot of direct sunlight, focus on leafy greens and herbs if you have at least 4–6 hours of sunlight in your space.

If you have 6+ hours of sun you can grow roots and fruits. There are many different types of containers to choose from. You can use ceramic pots of many sizes and colours. Grow bags are a great option when you are looking for something that can pack away easily in the off-season. They come in great sizes for growing on a patio or balcony. I recommend no shallower than 6 inches for leafy greens, 16 inches for rooting vegetables like carrots, and 24 inches deep for tomatoes and larger plants.

When it comes to choosing plants or seeds, look for varieties that were bred specifically to be compact or patio varieties. There are many, many options to try.

Growing Food in Your Yard or a Community Garden

After determining what area is the best place for your garden based on sunlight, proximity to your water source and kitchen, you need to decide what kind of garden you want. You have the option of:
- an in-ground row garden
- raised beds
- containers
- or a combination of the above
The benefits of raised beds are many, which is why I recommend using them. I have grown in a row garden, raised beds, and containers. Raised beds are by far my favorite, with containers second. Cedar and redwood are two of the most used types of wood for raised beds because they are long-lasting and rot-resistant. The best option is wood that is 2 inches thick to hold in your soil without the wood bowing. The optimal height of raised beds is 12–24 inches tall so larger, longer plants or those with long tap roots have room for their roots to grow. Use the highest quality soil you can based on the mix mentioned above.

Whatever kind of space you live in there are options for you to grow some of your own food. All you need is quality soil, amendments, seeds or transplants, enough sunlight, water and your growing method of choice. I invite you to get started growing your own food, and have fun experimenting!

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March 26, 2024
How Gardening for Seasonal Affective Disorder Can Chase the Blues

With the lack of sunlight, many people suffer from SAD. To say the least, the winter months can be mentally and emotionally challenging for many people. I’ve often turned to the garden, even in the winter, to help chase my blues away. Here are a few ways you can use your love of plants and gardening for seasonal affective disorder.

When the sun sets at 4:30, it can feel like it is up and down in a matter of minutes. Without a doubt, November through February can be some of the toughest months for those of us who live further north and away from the equator.

Our plants become less active when there is less daylight. Yes, many go straight to rest and almost look dead in the winter. But even our houseplants and evergreens slow their growth in the fall and winter, resting up for the warm weather.

In the winter, it’s essential for us to take inspiration from these plants. It’s a time for us to do less and not try to maintain that same busy schedule.

But it’s also essential that we still get outside and enjoy some gardening therapy, even during the cold months.

If you also feel the effects of limited sunlight, these tips for winter gardening for seasonal affective disorder will give you a boost from mother nature.

This post will cover…

Growing herbs indoors is one of the best ways to get some gardening in and enjoy some fresh food in the winter.

What is Seasonal Affective Disorder?

Seasonal Affective Disorder (SAD) is a form of depression. This perhaps has the best acronym of SAD, because that’s exactly how many people feel this time of the year. People who experience SAD will go through mood changes and have symptoms like regular depression.

SAD typically occurs in the fall and winter months when there is less sunlight. For most, it will go away when spring begins, and there is more daylight. But there are a select few who experience SAD in the summer instead.

Around 5% of adults in the US will experience SAD. In Canada, 2-3% of Canadians experience SAD in their lifetime, while 15% will experience a milder version of SAD.

It’s also believed that SAD is more common among women than men. The Canadian Mental Health Association reports that women are nine times more likely to be diagnosed with SAD than men.

While more research is needed, Pshciatry.org says, “SAD has been linked to a biochemical imbalance in the brain prompted by shorter daylight hours and less sunlight in winter.”

Finding Garden Therapy in the Winter

When I was writing my first book, Garden Made, I divided it into four chapters for each of the seasons. For me, making it seasonal felt important, and I ensured that every season had equal projects.

I went out of my way to ensure that the winter projects were quick, crafty, and engaging. Spending time with plants gives us a reason to get outside, even when wearing a toque. You can smell the pine, the freshness, and even the soil.

Nowadays, I find myself working on more projects in the fall and winter. In the summer, the plants are busy doing their own thing. We can admire them and help as needed.

But in the winter, we need them. All the time we spend huddled in front of the TV and even cozying up by the fireplace can contribute to SAD. We need to remember to get outside still.

I love going on a walk in my neighbourhood or a trail to get some outdoor therapy.

Finding Balance

It’s easy to get lost in hanging out inside when it’s colder and drearier outside. But it’s always a good idea to step outside at least once a day and try to get that natural outdoor therapy in.

But I also want to stress that we naturally slow down in the winter, and that’s okay. When we’re in the winter, we need to do less. We should be working less, sleeping more, feeling cozier, and reducing our physical activity from the summer.

Just like the plants are doing.

Before we had electricity, this was second nature to us. We used fires and candles at night, and things wouldn’t be lit up all the time. The time of year and the amount of natural light dictated what activities they did.

Now, we have light. Everywhere. All the time.

This allows us to keep busy all the time. And it seriously messes with our internal clocks. Just think about how much daylight savings time or jet lag can affect us! We’re essentially doing that to ourselves all the time in the winter.

As the days get shorter, we should follow suit and do less and less. Likewise, we should follow the sunlight and get livelier in the summer.

For me, SAD feels like a result of the demands from society and this constant false sense of daylight we have.

Remember, winter is also a time of year for doing less.

Gardening for Depression

I talked a bit about my experience with depression and how gardening became a beacon for me. As my depression comes and goes, I am constantly reminded that just a few minutes outdoors can have a huge impact.

It’s well proven that greenery, getting outside, and gardening itself can help to relieve the symptoms of depression and anxiety. You can learn more about those studies and my own personal experience in this post.

But I bet you’ve felt the calming effect of nature yourself. Your shoulders are up to your ears with stress, your to-do list swarming in your brain. But when you step outside, even just for a few minutes, some of your worries seem to evaporate right along with the sun.

I’ve never specialized in horticultural therapy or gotten too much into the science behind it all, but I share the many crafty projects and ideas that will help you get outside or more connected to nature.

Getting crafty with my hands is one way to feel more connected during the winter.

Tips for SAD

Now I know it’s difficult to go outside and garden when all the plants are hibernating themselves. SAD typically affects us because it’s so difficult to get outside.

One of the biggest ways to treat SAD is with light therapy. This is where you buy a specialized light that powers you with tons of light early in the day.

But I also suggest trying to get as much natural sunlight as possible. Like the plants in the winter, be by the windowsill as often as possible. Consider moving your furniture so you sit closer to the window.

I also try to surround myself with as many plants as possible. I have plenty of suggestions in my post about plants for low light. These will all be able to handle the minimal sunlight in the winter. But their green leaves will give you a sense of freshness and nature within the home.

Make an effort to get outside at least once a day. Aim for early afternoon when the sun is at its highest, and you can soak in as much vitamin D as possible. And even if the sun isn’t shining, you’ll enjoy the crisp air and sights.

Talking to a mental health professional is the number one way you can help treat SAD. Be sure to consult with a professional if you think you or a loved one may experience SAD.

As you can see, the plants really make this space feel homey at my old rental house.

Gardening for Seasonal Affective Disorder

Here are a few ways to “garden” in the winter and reap the benefits of working with plants and nature.

Grow lights are an amazing tool to truly get your gardening on indoors.

There are so many ways to embrace nature, even without being surrounded by it or puttering in the garden. Just remember that you’re not alone in this, get outside when you can, and that spring is always coming. *hugs*

More Ways to Get Your Garden Therapy

Stephanie Rose

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January 15, 2024
Christmas Tree Care: How to Keep a Christmas Tree Alive
Picking a fresh Christmas tree is one of the best parts of the season. However, you’ll need to learn Christmas tree care to keep the magic going all month long. This post will show you how to keep a Christmas tree alive throughout the whole holiday season.

For centuries, the Christmas tree has been an honoured tradition for the holiday season. The pagans first brought in evergreen boughs during the winter solstice to remind themselves of the greenery of spring.

Taking inspiration from the pagans, the Christmas tree originated in Germany. The first Christmas tree was said to belong to Martin Luther, who was in awe of the brilliance of the stars among evergreens. To recreate the beauty, he placed a tree in his home and decorated it with lighted candles.

The German settlers in Pennsylvania brought this tradition to America, erecting their first trees in 1747. It wasn’t until the 1980s that Christmas trees rose in popularity, and people began decorating their own.

To keep this brilliant tradition going, grab a fresh tree from your local seller. Many people avoid the mess of a real tree, but with the proper Christmas tree care, you can lose very few needles. Then you have a fresh, wonderful-smelling tree that’s much better for the environment.

Keep on reading for all my tips on how to keep a Christmas tree alive.

I worked as a Christmas tree seller for many years, and have gained lots of knowledge about Christmas tree care as a result.

Quick Tips for Caring for a Real Christmas Tree
- The best tree starts with selection. Buy a fresh tree and test for needle retention. Gently tug along the branch; only a few needles should fall off.
- Christmas trees must be placed in water 6-8 hours after being cut down. If you’re buying them from a lot, ask the seller to cut off the end 1-2 inches.
- Check the water levels of your Christmas tree every day. Don’t let it dry out!
- Keep your tree away from heat sources to stop it from drying out.
- Add a humidifier if your tree is in a dry room or climate.
How to Keep a Christmas Tree Alive

Your perfect Christmas tree is only perfect if it lasts through the season! With these tips for caring for a real Christmas tree, you will be able to choose a tree that is fresh, as well as learn how to keep it alive and beautiful throughout the holidays.

Pick the Freshest Tree Possible

Head to a local tree farm and cut your own for the freshest tree. If you buy your tree from a lot, there is a simple test to help you decide if it is fresh enough to take home. The last thing you want is for all the needles to drop as soon as you hang your decorations.

Test tree freshness by holding a branch tip firmly between your thumb and forefinger; pinch the branch slightly higher with the opposite hand and slide your fingers up the branch against the grain. The needles should not come off the branch. (As a side note, this is the easy way to remove leaves from woody herbs like rosemary, sage, and thyme.)

Now that you know it’s fresh, make sure that you choose a tree that is right for your space with the help of this guide: How to Choose the Right Fresh Christmas Tree for Your Family.

Christmas trees begin drying out as soon as they leave the tree farm.

Make a Fresh Cut

Keep your tree fresh by cutting a 1-2 inch thick slice off the base of the trunk before placing it in water. You may not have a saw handy, so ask if they can cut it at the tree lot before you take it home. Most sellers will automatically make a fresh cut for you.

Get the tree in the water right away if possible. Otherwise, you can leave it for 6-8 hours before you will need to make another fresh cut. If you can’t erect your Christmas tree right away, try to place it in a bucket of water and leave it somewhere unheated. A garage will protect it from wind and avoid freezing the water.

Water, Water, Water

Christmas trees drink LOTS of water so be sure to check the water levels daily. Purchase a stand that will hold enough water. The box should give an estimate of how much water it holds, but remember, that won’t count the water displacement when the trunk is in it.

As a general rule, a tree drinks 1 quart of water for every inch in diameter. A tree trunk 3 inches wide will drink 3 quarts of water a day. Keep this in mind when buying a tree and stand.

Display your fresh Christmas tree out of direct sunlight and away from heat vents. Do not let the reservoir in the tree stand dry out ever. All of these things dry out the tree more rapidly and speed its demise.

Cutting a Christmas tree down right at the farm is a must-try experience.

Help! My Christmas Tree is Not Drinking Water

Christmas trees need a fresh cut before you bring them inside. It can only be out of water for 6-8 hours before you need to make another cut to the base of the trunk to encourage it to drink more water. Most sellers will automatically cut the base of the trunk for this reason.

While it may be a hassle, and messy, cutting 1-2 inches off the base of the trunk will encourage the tree to drink water.

Living Christmas Tree Care

An increasingly popular choice for Christmas trees is to purchase a potted living tree. If you decide to get a living Christmas tree this year, plan on keeping it in the house for no more than a few days. The dry, warm air may be lovely for you, but it takes a toll on an evergreen.

Keep it Outside

Once you have celebrated with your tree, it’s time to set it back outside. You don’t need to plant it right away, which is good because some areas might be hard with frozen soil! But even setting it back into its natural environment should be done with caution. It is important that the tree be re-acclimatized to outdoor conditions gradually when returning outdoors.

Water Well

Place it in an unheated, sheltered location for a day or so for the transition. After that, water it well and take it back outside. If the ground is not frozen, plant it. If the ground is frozen, protect the root ball by insulating it in a moistened mulch or straw pile until it thaws outside.

What to Do After Christmas

With these tips on how to keep a Christmas tree alive, your fresh tree will look gorgeous for the holidays and provide your family with plenty of enjoyment. What should you do after Christmas?

Look up your local tree recycling programs. Some have a roadside pickup, while others have central drop-off locations. I know of at least one city that has a great program where you can take your tree to a goat farm and stay to watch the goats chow down. They go after the trees like crazy, and they will eat all the needles and branches right down to the trunk!

Or you can always get a bit crafty! Why not make some of these fun projects with your recycled Christmas tree?

Frequently Asked Questions About Christmas Tree Care

When it comes to people wondering how to keep a Christmas tree alive, I get a lot of questions. Reference this quick guide to help figure out how to care for your tree.

What do you put in Christmas tree water to keep the tree fresh?

You may have seen advertisements for Christmas tree food or other homemade recipes to help keep your tree fresh. But don’t add anything to your water! Additives such as bleach, aspirin, sugar, or anything advertised for Christmas trees are completely unnecessary. In fact, some may harm the tree. Just plain water is all your tree needs to make it through the holiday season.

How do you keep a Christmas tree from drying out?

Every single day, check the water levels of your tree. Your tree trunk should always be submerged in at least 2 inches. A Christmas tree stand should hold a minimum of 1 quart of water, or you will notice yourself refilling it multiple times a day.

Besides lots and lots (and lots) of watering, don’t let your tree get too hot. Consider lowering the temperature of the room your tree will call home. This may mean placing it in a room you don’t spend too much time in. Keep it away from all heating sources, such as fireplaces, heating vents, and direct sunlight.

If your home is naturally dry, consider adding a humidifier to the room to help prevent your tree from drying out.

What do you do if your Christmas tree doesn’t drink water?

If you’re checking the water levels and notice it’s not changing, your tree is likely not drinking any water. This means you will need to make another fresh cut. When you cut a tree, resin seeps out and can block the pores that intake water.

Upon purchasing, the seller should make a fresh cut to help them absorb water. If you need to make one yourself, the cut should be at least 1-2 inches.

Is it normal for needles to fall out of the Christmas tree?

A Christmas tree will naturally drop needles throughout the holidays. But if you notice it’s dropping a TON, your tree is dried out. Water well and keep it away from heat to prevent needle loss.

When choosing a Christmas tree, make sure it’s fresh. Fresh trees should only lose a couple of needles when you pull along the branches. You can tap the tree on the ground if it’s not too big and see how many needles fall off.

As your tree ages, it will drop more and more needles. You want to try and take the tree down before it dries up entirely, or cleanup will be a big chore!

Can you overwinter a Christmas tree?

You cannot overwater a Christmas tree. They need lots of water inside the home, especially during their first week, so always keep the stand full of water.

The general rule is that you need a quart of water for every inch in diameter. For example, a trunk 2 inches wide will drink 2 quarts of water daily. This rule helps you pick the suitable size stand and tree to match each other.

How long can Christmas trees last without water?

Christmas trees can last 6-8 hours without water before they will begin to dry out. While transporting, keep the surface of the fresh-cut clean and avoid any damage.

When at home, leave it in water and the garage until you can bring it inside to set up. If it’s more than 6-8 hours later, you must make another fresh cut to the tree.

Do Christmas trees need sugar water?

Many wives’ tales will suggest adding sugar or aspirin to a tree to help revive it or encourage it to drink more water. But you don’t need to add anything to your water. This likely comes from the idea of adding sugar to vases as flower food. Your Christmas tree is so big it won’t need the sugar to stay alive for a few weeks.

Do you have any more questions about how to keep a Christmas tree alive? Drop them in the comments down below, and I’ll answer them as soon as I can. Until then, Merry Christmas!

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Stephanie Rose

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November 10, 2023