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Tag: hollywood issue

  • Styles to Celebrate the Craft Behind Turning a Look

    Styles to Celebrate the Craft Behind Turning a Look

    Among the most intimate and daily links we have to art can be found in the garments we wear. Below, a texture play of spring pieces pulls a thread from the tapestries and abstracted crochet works of “Woven Histories: Textiles and Modern Abstraction,” opening at the National Gallery of Art on March 17. Works include Ed Rossbach’s 1977 Damask Waterfall—a wrapped maze of cotton welting cord, commercial fabric, as well as plastic and satin damask woven into a rush of movement and surprising color—and Andrea Zittel’s White Felted Dress #3, which evokes the visceral connection fiber art has to our everyday life, and to ourselves. “I hand-felted all my garments (Fiber Form Uniforms),” she said in an interview last year, “because I liked that the technology of felting (rubbing wool covered with hot soapy water with my hands) meant that I was literally using my body to make a covering for my body.”

    Here, from braided golden cuffs to twined cowboy boots, fiber fancies abound.

    All products featured on Vanity Fair are independently selected by our editors. However, when you buy something through our retail links, we may earn an affiliate commission.

    Arimeta Diop

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  • Inside the ’80s Art Scene of Keith Haring, Grace Jones, Basquiat, and More

    Inside the ’80s Art Scene of Keith Haring, Grace Jones, Basquiat, and More

    New York, New York: the city that never quite got over its ’80s era, its Club 57 or Studio 54, its graffitied subway system, Warhol or his films, St. Mark’s Church-in-the-Bowery, Grace Jones clad only in Keith Haring’s squiggles; a cast of characters sometimes mononymous, always prolific, and too often short-lived. 

    In Radiant (Harper)—one of several books this spring that take on the glam and tumult of the decade—Brad Gooch traces Haring’s defiant, definitive lines. There’s his entering a 15-foot-by-3-inch fantasia into his Kutztown, Pennsylvania, junior high school student art exhibit (parsing Haring’s youth feels relevant; the image of the radiant baby would become his signature) through his 1978 move to NYC to attend the School of Visual Arts and his finding community amid a band of Lost Boys. In Jennifer Clement’s forthcoming The Promised Party (Canongate), the author of the acclaimed Widow Basquiat describes that downtown Manhattan cohort: “All of us were some sort of runaway.” Of Haring, she writes, “Keith had tenderness in him, the tenderness that one finds in jails and hospitals.” Meanwhile, Cynthia Carr’s Candy Darling (FSG), the first biography of the glamorous queer icon, serves as a temporal prequel to the scene—Darling starred in the Andy Warhol–produced Women in Revolt (1971) and Tennessee Williams’s play Small Craft Warnings (1972) long before Haring enrolled at SVA.

    Madonna and Haring in November 1989.COURTESY OF THE KEITH HARING FOUNDATION.

    The meek—the castaways, the othered, the artists and lovers—did not inherit the city. (See the well-off transplants who bemoan what little of New York’s original grit lingers in her streets.) Still, their barbed beauty lives on. At last summer’s Blue Note Jazz Festival, 75-year-old Jones beguiled a new generation of New Yorkers in a 50-foot dress that winked to Haring; this April, Madonna closes out her The Celebration Tour. (And Gagosian LA’s “Made on Market Street,” opening this month, reminds us that Jean-Michel Basquiat and his art were bicoastal.) Prescient Darling captured an era of yearning in one of her many diary entries: “I wanted to be beautiful. My friends told me I was beautiful. I lived to be beautiful.”

    HarperCollins

    ‘Radiant: The Life and Line of Keith Haring’ by Brad Gooch

    FSG

    ‘Candy Darling: Dreamer, Icon, Superstar’ by Cynthia Carr

    Canongate

    ‘The Promised Party: Kahlo, Basquiat and Me’ by Jennifer Clement

    Arimeta Diop

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  • How AI Could Disrupt Hollywood

    How AI Could Disrupt Hollywood

    A screenwriter friend once told me about a young assistant who was handed a script by his boss and told to drive it across town, to Bel Air, to the stately home of one of the world’s most celebrated directors. He walked up the long driveway, past the manicured gardens, before handing off the script. As the director inspected it, the assistant said nervously, “I have to say, your house is just incredible.” Without skipping a beat, the director shot back, “Yeah, well, no one who lives in it is happy” and slammed the door. When I asked why the director was so miserable, my friend replied: “Probably because he works in Hollywood.”

    One reason the industry is so much more taxing than other creative fields is because it’s so expensive to make anything. According to producers and studios I’ve spoken to, TV show budgets now range between $6 million and $25 million an episode, not including marketing costs. Most mainstream movies now cost between $100 million and $250 million to make. Years ago, you could make a blockbuster for a fraction of that. The first Top Gun (1986) cost $15 million to make. The 2022 sequel cost $170 million.

    But this is all about to change because of AI. This past month, OpenAI announced Sora, which can take text and turn it into astonishingly realistic video, in the same way the company’s other products, like ChatGPT, can with text-to-text, or Dall-E can with text-to-images. Days after the announcement of Sora, the media mogul Tyler Perry said he was stopping an $800 million expansion of his Atlanta film and TV studios. “I had gotten word over the last year or so that this was coming, but I had no idea until I saw recently the demonstrations of what it’s able to do,” Perry told The Hollywood Reporter. “It’s shocking to me.” (Perry acknowledged in the same interview that he’d used AI in two upcoming films.)

    There are also platforms like Pika, Runway, and VideoPoet, made by Google, which offer competing text-to-video AI software that can create short clips in whatever style you want. These technologies can make video from text or images, taking a still image and animating it in a way that makes it look like it’s a scene out of a $170 million production. Go look at the demo reel for Wonder Studio, an AI special effects company that uses drag-and-drop to change an actor into, say, a robot or an alien, to see just how quickly these advancements are happening.

    It’s not just visual effects that can be done with drag-and-drop algorithms. It’s everything. Text-only LLMs, like Squibler, Jasper, and ChatGPT, can already write mediocre scripts. The same is true for start-ups that enable you to create the score for a film using a full philharmonic of brass, woodwinds, percussion, and strings. Then there’s the AI editing platforms that can string it all together. All of this hints at a not-too-distant future where a film or TV series could be made by a single person, though regrettably that single person would not be Mike White.

    While most people who work in Hollywood—no doubt including the 90 percent who are already struggling to make a living—don’t look on these developments as desirable, there’s a swath of people who see them as an inevitable addition to storytelling, at least one day. “Creators in all realms are going to have to look at this as a profound opportunity. They will be able to collaborate with a force that can sift through every grain of cultural capital on the planet and traverse the entire kingdom of history in less time than it takes to pour a cup of coffee,” says Allan Loeb, a screenwriter who is currently writing a novel about creative AI in Hollywood. “The apprentice’s 10,000 hours will become eight seconds.”

    Putting aside the hotly disputed copyright issues, Hollywood is about to experience a disruption similar to what happened more than two decades ago in the music industry, where a person used to need access to an exorbitantly expensive recording studio to make a single song (not to mention agents, managers, and distribution deals), until the MP3 and inexpensive software let artists like Justin Bieber (who was discovered on YouTube) and Billie Eilish (who was discovered on SoundCloud) subvert the usual channels of music stardom. Today between 25,000 and 100,000 new songs are uploaded every 24 hours to Spotify, mostly made, presumably, by people in their bedrooms. Your guess is as good as mine as to how many of these songs are actually any good or how many people actually listen to them. But imagine when anyone can create their own Oppenheimer-length film that could pass for the product of a big studio.

    “By giving everyone access to AI tools that will allow individuals to make films, music, animation, and more, we will open up these mediums to whole populations of people who would otherwise never have the possibility of telling their story,” says Mika Johnson, a filmmaker and documentarian who also works in AI. The problem is that any idealized Cambrian explosion of access is almost certain to collapse on itself. “Every artist on the planet is having a Wile E. Coyote moment,” Loeb says. “My only advice to them is that they may not want to look down.”

    Hollywood is a town in a perpetual existential crisis, going back to the transition from silent films to talkies in the ’20s, to the end of the studio system in the ’40s, to the rise of television in the ’50s. This past decade has pulled and pushed and slapped Hollywood in every which way possible. The streamers broke those lush business models, and then COVID-19 ground the industry to a halt. And right when it was about to get greased up and ready to churn out content again, the WGA and SAG went on strike.

    There was a long list of demands from the unions, from residuals to data, but at the heart of the fight last year, the unions wanted to ensure that their members wouldn’t be replaced by AI. The studios agreed not to use AI in lieu of writers and mainstream actors. But three years from now, when the next negotiations begin, AI video and AI writing technologies may be a thousand times more advanced and ubiquitous, and that battle will be even harder to win.

    Many people I’ve spoken to who work in AI say, like Johnson, that their goal is to democratize creativity, making filmmaking and storytelling available to anyone. The aforementioned demo released by Wonder Studio, which boasts an advisory board of industry heavyweights like Steven Spielberg and Joe Russo, emphasizes how its tools are meant to empower artists rather than replace them. And I imagine most writers, directors, producers, editors, and cinematographers don’t believe that a machine can do what they do. But the shift is already happening.

    Nick Bilton

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  • Jenna Ortega Thinks We Need More Weird Stories Like ‘Beetlejuice’

    Jenna Ortega Thinks We Need More Weird Stories Like ‘Beetlejuice’

    What did you mean when you said the episodes are more like movies?

    I mean, in the first season we had episodes that really stood out visually, like the dance episode was a really big one for people, and that setting was very particular and it felt like Prom Night, a little bit, or Carrie. Every episode [of season two] that I’ve read so far is like that. It just stands out on its own as a very memorable scene or bit or setting, which I think is what I’m most excited for, because to pull that off for eight episodes is, I think, really incredible and really lucky.

    You’d been working for a long time before things really took off.

    I have been doing this for 12 years. It’s weird to look back on all the experiences that I’ve had doing the job that I do. And then to be here now is…I don’t know, I feel like it’s some sort of sick prank.

    You must have vivid memories of your early years, auditioning and trying to get roles.

    I wanted to start when I was six. But I didn’t actually start until I was 10. There’s a lot of things that I’ve done in my career that I used to say I wanted to do, or dreamed about doing. I’m definitely a perfectionist, but I also think that that comes with never being satisfied or never being able to stop and slow down and appreciate what’s been going on or what I’ve seen. The last few months I’ve been able to reflect on the fact that a lot of the things that I wanted to do when I was younger, including work with Tim Burton, have happened. I almost didn’t realize it because I was so focused on the work and had tunnel vision.

    Does it still live up to what you imagined?

    To still enjoy the job just as much 12 years later—even seeing all of the ugly and wonderful and extreme—I think is pretty cool. I made this decision when I was 10, so I’m living off of a 10-year-old’s choices.

    Anything you wish you’d done differently?

    I’m very much a people pleaser. I like to say that I’m not anymore—but I am. I wish that I felt that I was a bit more in control of my experiences. When I was younger, I was just so happy to be a part of the conversation that I wasn’t really playing it in a strategic way. Not that it has to be. I wish that maybe I had felt more autonomy in who I was from a younger age. I think I’ve definitely fallen into patterns of taking myself too seriously or not being able to create much balance in my life.

    Balance in what way?

    When I was younger, I wasn’t thinking about sleepovers and friends and proms. It was always, “What am I going to do next? How am I going to get this job? What meeting should I take?” It was work and school and sleep and repeat. So it’s been funny as I’ve gotten older to realize, “Huh, yeah, you do need your hands in other bowls and you do need to take a step and a breather.” I’m glad that I realize that now, but it’s strange to have not really had that experience or been eager for that experience when I was younger.

    It’s important to have connections back to reality.

    Definitely. Everything that’s happened—it almost feels like another person that people are talking about. I don’t feel attached to my name at all, or people’s perception of my name. I have conversations with people all the time about the position that I’m in now and everything that’s happening, but nothing in my personal life has really changed or been altered in any way. It almost doesn’t sound real. I just feel very detached from the whole thing, which maybe helps as well. But at the same time, it’s kind of scary. I don’t know how people do it. I feel like there’s probably some handbook out there that just was never handed to me.

    This interview has been edited and condensed for clarity. For fashion and beauty details, go to VF.com/credits.

    Anthony Breznican

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