Tag: growing food

Preparing for Pumpkin Harvest: How to Pick the Perfect Pumpkin! – Garden Therapy
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Are you ready for the pumpkin harvest? Get ready with this ultimate guide on how to pick a pumpkin. Whether you’re a certified jack-o-lantern artist or a pumpkin bread lover, I have tips to help you pick the best pumpkins for all your festive needs!

There’s something about pumpkins that is SO nostalgic. They are so completely seasonal, reminding us of crisp fall days, comforting recipes, and of course, Halloween nights. After all, what’s more autumnal than a pumpkin harvest?

I look forward to picking pumpkins every year for these nostalgic wonders. In dedication to these symbolic gourds, I’ve made you the ultimate guide to preparing for pumpkin harvest.

In this guide, you’ll learn how to pick the perfect pumpkin for any purpose. I’ll also answer any and all of your pumpkin-related questions!

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When Kiddo was a baby, I used to entertain him with pumpkins.

Stages of Pumpkin Growing

Interested in where your jack-o-lantern comes from? These are the stages in growing pumpkins!

From the Seed

It all starts with the seed! Planting depends on your climate, but pumpkins are usually best planted anywhere from mid-May to late July.

Pumpkin seeds will take 3-10 days to germinate. You can transplant germinated seeds, but it’s best to germinate them directly in the outdoor soil! You should notice sprouts growing after germination (within a couple of weeks)!

It’s best to purchase new pumpkin seeds to guarantee the taste and variety as opposed to saving them from grocery store pumpkins.

Developing Leaves

Next, the leaves! Leaves will begin to develop about a week after sprouting. They will continue developing for a few weeks after this.

Under ideal conditions, vines will grow rapidly (as much as 6 inches a day!). Vines will spread out from the base of the plant.

Forming Fruits

Vibrant yellow or orange flowers will appear midway through the growing season, first male flowers, then female flowers.

These flowers will become the fruits (AKA pumpkins) of the plant. Small green fruits will begin to form at the base of the female flowers. These are your baby pumpkins!

Pumpkin Harvest

Pumpkins will take several weeks to reach their full growth. They will usually take 45-55 days to grow to maturity after successful pollination.

Matured pumpkins will be fully orange. Their vines will be brown and starting to wither. It’s time to harvest your pumpkins for eating!

Tips On Growing Perfect Pumpkins

While you can head to the pumpkin patch to pick out a pumpkin, there’s something so satisfying about eating and carving your own homegrown pumpkin. Here are some insider tips on growing the perfect pumpkins.

Early-Season Pollinating

To get the most out of your harvest, you’ll want to invest in some early-season pollinating. You can hand-pollinate by using a paintbrush in four easy steps.
1. Locate a male flower and peel back the petals.
2. Collect pollen from the male flower onto your paintbrush.
3. Transfer this pollen to the female flower, brushing it onto the female’s pistil.
4. Gently press the female’s flowers together to keep pollen in.
Achieve Fun Twisted Stems

Have you ever seen pumpkins with those amazing twisted stems? You can achieve these storybook pumpkins yourself!

When you’re growing pumpkins in your garden, turn them 1/4″ once a week to get these whimsical, curly stems.

Get HUGE pumpkins

If you want large pumpkins, you need to make some sacrifices! The plant only has so much energy to produce pumpkins, so you’ll need to choose whether you want one huge pumpkin or a bunch of smaller ones.

If you choose several smaller pumpkins, keep them all on the vine. If you want to achieve a huge pumpkin, however, pull off the babies and just leave one or two behind.

You can also get bigger pumpkins depending on the seeds you choose. Choose wisely!

Pumpkins take up LOTS of space in the garden, so be prepared.

When to Harvest Pumpkins

Pumpkins are best harvested when fully matured! You’ll be able to tell they’re ready when they’re fully coloured (a brilliant orange colour) and the skin is hardened.

Try testing your pumpkin skin with your fingernail; it should be tough enough that it isn’t easily punctured. You should also hear a hollow sound if you knock on its side.

If you want to use your pumpkin for decorative purposes, you can definitely harvest it when it’s green. Green pumpkins can be picked in early October. They’ll continue to mature when taken off the vine if they’ve at least begun to develop colour. It will take them about a month to be totally ready in time for Halloween.

Knock on your pumpkin. If you hear a hollow sound, it’s ready to be picked.

How to Pick a Pumpkin

While I like growing pumpkins, kiddo and I have been known to frequent a pumpkin patch or two. I have all the hot tips on picking the perfect pumpkin, whatever you’re using it for!

Picking a Pumpkin for Carving

When searching for the perfect jack-o-lantern pumpkin, I try not to get ones that are too big. As fun as it is to have a giant pumpkin, it’s really hard to carve!

Kiddo always goes for the big pumpkins, and I go for the small ones because I know I’ll have to spend time helping him with his.

When at the pumpkin patch, I look for green pumpkins all the way around with little bits of orange if it’s early in the season. I avoid any and all soft spots and brown or yellow spots; these are all hazard signs of future rotting!

When harvesting, whether at the patch or in your own backyard, ensure you cut the stem with a bit of length and a curved top. The hooked-over stem has a classic look and acts as a handle to provide easy access to the jack-o-lantern!

One of my favourite ways to carve a pumpkin is with these fun jack-o-planters!

My jack o’ planters are filled with live plants for a fun, gardening twist on the classic.

Picking a Pumpkin for Home Decor

When looking to use pumpkins for home decor, think small! Mini pumpkins make great choices for home decor because they’re so long-lasting!

If stored in dry, cool conditions, these miniature gourds should last between 6 and 12 months. Keep these babies uncarved to enjoy lasting, festive decor.

I love using my pumpkins to decorate and use as planters, like this fabulous pumpkin arrangement! You can then make your pumpkin last longer with these tips.

Once open and brought inside, pumpkins won’t last longer than 4-7 days.

Picking a Pumpkin for Eating

Pumpkins are one of my favourite seasonal ingredients…they just scream fall time!

When picking the best pumpkin to add to soup, pasta, or a tray-bake, you’ll want to go for a fully matured pumpkin. This means picking a pumpkin that is vibrant orange in colour.

The same rules apply from before, avoid those soft spots because they could be a sign of early rot! The colour should be even with no signs of discolouration or mould.

I LOVE pumpkin seeds. Try out this recipe for sweet and salty roasted rosemary pumpkin seeds.

Frequently Asked Questions About A Pumpkin Harvest

How do I find pumpkin picking near me?

The internet is your friend! Do a quick deep-dive with your favourite search engine. You’re sure to find local farms with pumpkins ready to be picked.

If you’re feeling really pumped on pumpkins, try growing your own. That way, you only have to go as far as your backyard.

Can you leave pumpkins on the vine too long?

While you’ll want to leave your pumpkin on the vine for as long as possible, there is such a thing as leaving them for too long. Pumpkins should be safe to leave on the vine until the first autumn frost. Any longer than that, your pumpkin runs the risk of rotting on the vine.

If you’re nervous about rot, you can always pick your pumpkins before they’re fully matured. As long as they’ve begun to colour, your pumpkins can continue to ripen when off the vine.

What does a green pumpkin mean?

Green pumpkins are a part of the growing process. If your pumpkin is green, it means it’s unripe and still needs to mature (preferably on the vine!).

These pumpkins aren’t suitable for eating yet but can be used for carving and other decorating ideas at this stage.

What do pumpkin plants look like?

You can identify pumpkin plants by their large, lobed leaves and signature vines. During their flowering stage, they have lovely, funnel-shaped flowers with globe-shaped bases. Their colours range from orange to yellow!

How long will my picked pumpkin last?

It depends! Whole pumpkins can last for 2-3 months when properly stored (in a cool dry place).

A carved pumpkin will decay a lot quicker, usually lasting about a week or two when kept outside.

One of fall’s greatest pleasures, enjoy the season with your newly picked pumpkin! Leave any more questions in the comments down below.

Pumpkin Projects to Try

A city girl who learned to garden and it changed everything. Author, artist, Master Gardener. Better living through plants.
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Stephanie Rose

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September 5, 2025
Can I Harvest Green Tomatoes? Tips for Ripening and Harvesting – Garden Therapy

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It’s just days away from the first frost, and you’re looking at your green tomatoes wishing they would just hurry up already. I’ve been there…we’ve all been there! Fret not, for there is plenty you can do with your green tomatoes to turn them red and tasty off the vine.

Near the end of the gardening season, gardeners watch the weather like hawks. Every day, we check to see if the dreaded first frost is coming.

For many of our plants that require a long growing season, every second counts! Sometimes, we can harvest in time, and other times, we just don’t get enough growing days and sunshine to get there.

Tomatoes are one I’m always keeping an eye on. I harvest them beginning in August, and can have a couple months of garden fresh tomatoes if I’m lucky. But nearing the end, I cross my fingers at the small green tomatoes and hope they can make it.

If you have a frost coming, and you’re worried your tomatoes won’t ripen in time, there is hope for your green tomatoes. In fact, some gardeners actually prefer to harvest them when they’re green!

Let me tell you why and how you can actually ripen your green tomatoes off the vine.

Tomatoes on the same vine may ripen at different speeds.

How a Tomato Ripens

When tomatoes first begin to grow, they’re vivid green. As they slowly reach mature size, they become pale green. Once a tomato has reached its full size, the flavour development is mostly done.

Tomatoes will begin to blush, which is known as the breaker stage. At this point, they are about half green and half red. During the breaker stage, the tomato has sealed off its stem from the plant, and nothing is moving from the plant into the fruit.

When the tomato reaches this breaker stage, it can be harvested off the vine. It will ripen and taste the exact same as if it had been left to ripen on a vine.

Many people like to harvest at the breaker stage to prevent insects and birds from feasting on their tomatoes and stop the tomatoes from splitting themselves or sunscalding.

The bottom left tomato is a good representation of the breaker stage.

Can I Harvest Green Tomatoes?

For many gardeners, they don’t have time to let the tomatoes even get to the blushing breaker stage. If a frost is imminent, you’ll want to get tomatoes off the plant.

You can absolutely harvest tomatoes that are green but full-size. These will ripen off the plant. Those that aren’t full-sized won’t ripen once picked because they weren’t fully developed yet.

Some heirloom tomatoes are actually naturally green when ripe, like these Green Zebra heirloom tomatoes.

Tips for Ripening Green Tomatoes

Once you have your green tomatoes off the plant and inside, there are a few things you can do to help them turn from green to red.

Temperature

Tomatoes like to develop best in warm temperatures. Anywhere from 24-29 °C (75-85 °F) degrees is best for indoor ripening. Placing them on a sunny windowsill can help.

Add Ethylene Gas

Tomatoes naturally produce ethylene gas as they mature and turn red. Many commercial growers will actually ripen tomatoes by exposing them to ethylene gas. They’re picked when they’re green and then they use controlled exposure of ethylene to turn them red in time to put on grocery store shelves.

You can use this same method at home by placing your tomatoes in a paper bag or a cardboard box and closing it up. The tomatoes will naturally produce ethylene themselves and slowly ripen, but you can speed up the process by placing a ripe banana alongside them. Other fruits such as mangos, apples, or avocados also work.

Check on the tomatoes regularly. They will ripen at different speeds depending on what stage they were picked at. Remove any that are ripe or may show signs of spoilage.

Leave Them on the Vine

Keep the stem intact. When harvesting your tomatoes, leave a little bit of stem rather than pulling just the tomato off. This will help the tomatoes ripen better.

Let your tomatoes sit on the countertop while they ripen.

Storing Your Tomatoes

Do. Not. Put your tomatoes in the fridge. Once you put the tomatoes in the fridge, you completely halt the ripening process. You’ll also notice a reduction in flavour, as the aromatic compounds in the fruit will break down when exposed to cool temperatures.

Of course, if you’re storing them for a while, you can move them into the fridge to help make them last longer. But you want to keep them on the counter or fruit bowl if you can help it!

When storing, it’s also a good idea to put the tomatoes upside down with the stem on the bottom. The shoulders of the tomato help to distribute the weight evenly, and your tomatoes will last longer.

Tomatoes are best left at room temperature to maintain their flavour.

Eating Green Tomatoes

Of course, you can also eat your green tomatoes! This is a completely different experience from eating a ripe red tomato. Green tomatoes are quite crunchy and have a tart taste.

The most common way to enjoy green tomatoes is to fry them. Cover them with a breadcrumb coating with spices and fry them in a pan until they’re golden brown.

You can also try pickling them. I haven’t tried this myself, but I would probably do it in a similar way to how I make my pickled shishito peppers.

Green zebra heirloom tomato.

FAQ About Green Tomatoes

What happens when tomatoes freeze?

Once a tomato freezes, it will turn to mush when it defrosts, and the plant itself will wilt and turn brown. So, it’s important to pick those green tomatoes off the plant if a first frost is on its way!

How long do tomatoes take to ripen?

It’s going to depend greatly based on the type of tomato you have. Indeterminate tomatoes (the vining ones) will fruit at different times, so you could enjoy some tomatoes now, and others two months later from the same plant. Determinate tomatoes will all fruit at once, giving you one large harvest.

Most tomatoes need 65-90 days from seed before you’ll begin to see any tomatoes. Once you see a flower, that will turn into a tomato fruit in about 15-20 days.

How do you tell when a green tomato is ripe?

The best way to tell if a tomato has reached full size is by its colouring. Compare it to other tomatoes on the vine. If it’s starting to change colour ever so slightly, such as yellowish-green or has a slight pink hue (usually begins at the bottom of the tomato), it’s ripe and can be picked to turn red inside.

More Tips for Preserving and Harvesting Tomatoes

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Stephanie Rose

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September 18, 2024
How to Save Seeds & Improve Your Vegetable Garden – Garden Therapy

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This time of year, we begin to say goodbye to this year’s vegetable garden and plan for next year’s. What better way to do both of these things than by collecting and preserving seeds to plant in the spring? Saving seeds from your very best vegetables will give you the very best seeds, so it’s worth it to take a little time and learn how to save seeds the right way.

Different seeds have different needs when it comes to collecting them for the following year. Some can simply be transferred straight from plant to seed packet, while others need a bit more attention in the form of drying or fermenting.

In this guide, I’m going to show you three different methods on how to save seeds, and which method to use for some of the most popular vegetables.

While purchasing seeds each year is a relatively economical method for growing a garden, seed saving is still an important practice. When you save seeds from your best-growing plants, you already know that they can thrive in your garden!

Year after year, your crop will get better and stronger as you continue to save only the best seeds your garden has to offer. The practice of seed saving is also a traditional process. For many, growing seeds passed down from older generations honours their history.

This guide will cover…

Don’t forget to save some flower seeds too!

Seed Saving Supplies

First, you’ll need a supply of seed envelopes for keeping your seeds stored and labelled. We’ve got you covered with lots of free printable seed packets here:

You’ll also need a tool for snipping seed pods in the garden. A small pair of scissors, such as embroidery scissors, is perfect for the job. You will also want a basket or paper bag for collecting pods out in the garden before you transfer them to their envelopes.

For drying and fermenting seeds, you will need paper towel and Mason jars.

Print these seed envelopes at home for easy and cute packaging.

How to Save Seeds Method 1: Mature in the Garden

Some vegetable seeds, such as the ones listed below, will germinate and grow better if they are allowed to mature and ripen right on the plant. When they are ready, simply collect them and store them in an envelope for next year.

For this method, choose to harvest seeds on a dry day in the early afternoon when seeds are retaining the least amount of water.

How to Save Lettuce and Cabbage Seeds

When your lettuce or cabbage plant begins to flower, place a plastic bag over it. When the seeds are ready, they will drop naturally and be contained in the bag, ready for you to collect and store. How convenient! If you want to try something new for your lettuce garden, try some of these unusual leafy greens instead.

How to Save Pea and Bean Seeds

If pods are green, that means the seeds are still ripening and receiving nutrients from the pods. Be patient and wait until the pods are completely brown before you harvest them. Spread peas and beans out on a clean, dry surface and leave them to dry for a week or so before storing.

You can tell whether or not the seeds are dry enough to be stored by biting one. If it is hard when you bite down on it, it is ready to be packed into a seed envelope and stored for the season. Come planting, make your own pea trellis to support your newly saved seeds.

Once harvested, let your pea and bean seeds dry for a week before storing.

Seed Saving Method 2: Ferment

Some seeds need to be fermented for them to germinate properly. To induce fermentation, soak seeds in water for a few days, then collect, dry, and store them.

How to Save Cucumber Seeds

Wait until the cucumber is a bit overripe and its flesh has turned somewhat yellow in colour, then cut it in half lengthwise and scoop out the seeds with a spoon.

Drop the seeds into a Mason jar half-filled with water. Cover and let sit for three or four days. The best seeds will sink to the bottom of the jar. Collect those seeds and spread them out to dry on a paper towel. Once they are completely dry, store them in the refrigerator.

Store cucumber seeds in the refrigerator.

How to Save Melon Seeds

Cut a ripe melon in half and scoop out the seeds. Rinse them gently under warm water to remove excess fruit. Put the seeds in a covered Mason jar half-filled with water and let sit for two to four days.

As with cucumbers, the best melon seeds will sink to the bottom, while the ones you don’t want will continue to float. Dry the sunken seeds on a paper towel and store them in a seed envelope until you are ready to plant them.

How to Save Tomato Seeds

Fermenting tomato seeds requires a few more steps, but it is SO worth it! For tomato seeds, you want just enough water to cover the seeds and surrounding tomato guts.

Instead of using the Mason jar lid, use the Mason jar ring to screw on and hold a paper towel in place. After a few days of sitting in their Mason jar, you should have a full cover of mould on the seeds. Yes, this is a good sign!

Then your seeds are ready to be strained and dried. See detailed instructions in this post on how to save heirloom tomato seeds.

Mould is a good sign when it comes to fermenting tomato seeds.

How to Save Cucamelon Seeds

Similar to tomatoes, you can ferment cucamelons using the same method. Their seeds will come back true to seed each year (the same as the original plant).

To learn more about this delightful mini fruit, check out my cucamelon growing guide.

Follow the same steps as a tomato to save cucamelon seeds.

Seed Saving Method 3: Scoop Out and Dry

The scoop-out and dry seed saving method involves simply scooping seeds out from the inside of veggies and laying them out to dry.

How to Save Pumpkin Seeds

When squash or pumpkins have developed a hard outer shell, they are ready to be harvested for seed saving. Cut the squash or pumpkin in half, scoop out the seeds and rinse them under warm water.

Then, pat them dry and spread them out on a clean, dry surface. Wait until the pumpkin seeds are completely dry before packaging them up for storage.

Different varieties of squash and pumpkin can cross-pollinate with each other, so the seeds you save might produce something that is not quite the same as the squash you collected the seeds from. This can be a really fun surprise!

Save the seeds from your pumpkin carving to plant in your garden next year.

How to Save Pepper Seeds

Most peppers will turn a dark red colour when they reach full maturity. At this point, harvest them and slice them in half.

Use your fingers to remove the seeds and spread them around on a paper towel placed away from direct sunlight…then make sure to wash your hands!

Leave the seeds to dry like this for one or two weeks, then store in an airtight container. When you’re ready to plant them, be sure to check out my growing guide for peppers, sweet and spicy!

Make sure to wash your hands after saving pepper seeds.

How to Save Strawberry Seeds

Though technically not a vegetable, strawberry seeds are easy to save using a smear and dry method. Rather than scooping the seeds, you will want to smoosh them on your paper towel. Then, let them dry somewhere warm.

Once dry, you can fold up the paper and stick it in an envelope for safekeeping. In the spring, scrape the seeds into soil and watch your strawberries grow.

Personally, I love to grow alpine strawberries and the process is near identical. Find more detailed instructions on this post on how I save my alpine strawberry seeds.

Since strawberry seeds are so tiny, keep them directly on the paper towel in storage so you don’t lose them.

FAQ About Saving Vegetable Seeds

How can I save kale and radish seeds?

Let these seeds mature directly on the plant. Harvest pods when they feel dry. To open the pods, rub them gently between your palms.

Is it illegal to save seeds?

When it comes to seed saving, many gardeners do not have to worry about the legalities. Most GMO and hybrid seeds are under a patent, meaning that farmers and other commercial growers can only grow these if they sign a contract. This contract states that they can’t save the seeds for the following year, only buying the rights to grow the purchased seeds.

However, if you are sticking to seed saving for your garden or to share with loved ones and neighbours through a seed library, you should be just fine. Heirloom seeds are well worth saving. No profit, no problem! For more on the difference between heirloom, GMO, and hybrid seeds, visit this post.

Can old seeds still grow?

Have you ever planted some old seeds only to find that they never germinate? Sometimes, this can put you weeks behind your growing schedule before you notice. All seeds should be stored in a cool, dark, and dry place to make sure they last as long as possible. Always write the date you saved/stored them.

When stored right, all seeds should last a year. Depending on the plant, they can be good for as long as 2-5 years. For example, tomatoes last around 5 years, while peas and beans are only good for 2. Research your specific vegetable seed upon saving, and feel free to add a best-before-date when storing. This way you know what to plant come spring and never let any of your seeds go bad before planting.

If you’re ever unsure about the viability of your old seeds, you can easily perform the germination test described in this post.

More Posts About Seeds

Want to save other seeds, too? Click to learn all about saving flower seeds.

Now that you’ve saved all those seeds get ready to plant them next year!

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Stephanie Rose

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August 27, 2024
How to Grow Ginger at Home (In-Ground and Containers) – Garden Therapy

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The perfect combination of sweet and spicy, ginger is a unique flavour that I just can’t get enough of. Whether you want to recreate the spiciness of ginger ale from your childhood or want freshly grated ginger for delicious curry, you can easily grow ginger in the garden or in the home. This guide covers everything you need to know about how to grow ginger so you can have an endless supply of the favoured spice.

Photo courtesy of Tasha Greer

One of the best things about sharing my love of gardening online is that I get to meet so many fellow gardeners! Over on Instagram, I met with the lovely Tasha Greer from Simplestead and we chatted over Instagram live about her book, Grow Your Own Spices. After the talk, I was completely obsessed with the idea of growing ginger!

I’m not a huge spice grower, instead opting to grow mostly herbs and other healing plants. But I invited Tasha to talk about ginger with me, and she gave me some great advice if you’re thinking of adding some spice to your garden.

This guide covers points and tips on how to grow ginger root directly from Tasha’s book. In it, she covers more than 30 different spices anyone can grow. Be sure to check out Grow Your Own Spices if you’re interested in growing tons of spices.

Today, we’ll be covering…

Reprinted with permission from Grow Your Own Spices: Harvest homegrown ginger, turmeric, saffron, wasabi, vanilla, cardamom, and other incredible spices — no matter where you live! by Tasha Greer © 2021. Published by Cool Springs Press. Photography courtesy of Tasha Greer where noted.

What is Ginger?

We all love it, but what is this funky, wrinkly thing we like to grate? Ginger, Zingiber officinale, is a plant grown mostly for its rhizome, although technically, the whole plant is edible.

Mostly used for culinary purposes, it has a spicy yet sweet taste. You can find it in curries, in baking like gingerbread, as a spicy zest to salad dressings, and in some very popular beverages.

Medicinal Properties of Ginger

Gingerols are the active components in the plant that give it a distinct spicy/sweet flavour. The components are also responsible for the anti-inflammatory properties and are even used to treat arthritis.

Medicinally, people know ginger best for easing an upset stomach. The virucidal properties aid in destroying viruses, making it a useful tool for your medicine cabinet,

“The most effective way to receive this medicine is through the use of its fresh juice,” says Tasha.

The easiest way to do this is to process the root with a juicer. Then, place the liquid in ice cube trays, and store it in the freezer to have an easily accessible antiviral remedy on hand. Add water, honey, and a squeeze of lemon to cut the spiciness as needed.

Remove the skin prior to using ginger.

How to Grow Ginger

Growing ginger differs a little differently than the average plant since we’re growing it from a rhizome rather than a seed. Here’s what you need to know!

Choosing a Rhizome

The easiest way to grow ginger is by taking a piece of rhizome from existing ginger to grow another. Sounds easy right? To get the best possible ginger harvest out there, the key is to select the right rhizome to get you started.

You probably would recognize ginger just by its touch. They are firm, knotty-looking rhizomes that have rough skin. Most of the ginger you find in the grocery store are Chinese cultivars. The flavour tends to be milder, and it will have a thicker skin to help with shelf life.

Technically, you can plant any ginger as long as it isn’t old or diseased. It’s worth noting that ginger purchased from the grocery store may have a growth inhibitor sprayed on it to stop it from sprouting early. Ideally, you want to source your ginger from an organic grower or your local farmer’s market.

Avoid any pieces that look shrivelled and dry. You want a plump piece of ginger with lots of eyes (growth buds). It should be 4-6 inches long with multiple arms.

Here’s Tasha’s advice for choosing a rhizome:

“Mature rhizomes that have been through natural senescence will produce the best yields. Senescence typically happens in fall after plants have had a long growing season.” Senescence is the life stage in which a plant’s metabolism slows before it dies.

Baby ginger rhizome. Photo courtesy of Tasha Greer

Planting

Most gardeners choose to start their ginger indoors and then transplant it outside as it warms up. Once you have your rhizome, pay attention to where the eyes are. If you have post-senescence ginger ready to go without eyes, store it in a warm location until the eyes appear.

Cut the ginger into pieces approximately 1 to 1 ½ inch wide. Each of the pieces will need an eye. Once cut, let it sit for 1-2 days until a slight crust has formed.

When planting, fill a pot with good quality potting soil until it is 2 inches from the top. Add in some slow-release fertilizer and place your rhizome in it approximately 1 inch deep, healthy eyes facing upwards.

Top off with some compost. Space any rhizomes 12 inches apart. It will grow up to 4 feet tall, so be sure to accommodate this type of growth.

Water the plant well and keep moist until shoots have emerged. This takes anywhere from 1 week to 1 month. Ginger prefers filtered light, not direct light. Under a tree where it will receive dappled light is a great spot to have it.

The plant can only survive when there is no frost. It can be planted in early spring after the danger of frost has passed or any time of year if you live in a warmer zone. A tropical plant, ginger likes heat and humidity. It will grow best in temperatures above 65°F or 18°C.

Tasha’s advice? Here’s what she has to say!

“When growing in the ground, periodically hill the soil from the outer edges of your rows around the root area to encourage the rhizomes to plump. Stop fertilizing if plants flower.”

Start your ginger in containers. Photo courtesy of Tasha Greer

How to Grow Ginger Indoors

You can easily grow ginger indoors, too! All you need is your leftover scrap or cut piece of ginger to get it started. Soak the rhizome overnight just in case it has a growth inhibitor, especially if you sourced it from a market.

In a pot, follow the same planting instructions as above. The pot needs to be large enough to accommodate the size of the rhizomes as they grow. It should also drain well, as ginger is prone to root rot if it sits in soggy soil.

When planting, only place one piece of ginger in each pot. Let it sit in indirect light in a warm part of the house. Watch and wait!

How to Harvest Ginger

Remember senescence? This is when the plant begins to slow down before it dies. The leaves will start to turn yellow and brown. This usually occurs when the plant gets less sunlight, and it cools down, signalling the ginger to grow more rhizomes to begin to store energy for the colder season. This is also when the rhizomes grow their protective skin. And you guessed it…it’s when we’re ready to harvest!

Ginger takes some time to grow. Baby ginger can be harvested after 6-8 months. You want to harvest the ginger before it reaches senescence. Mature ginger, on the other hand, takes more than 10 months and you want to harvest after senescence has occurred. Be sure to save the best rhizome (fat and healthy-looking) to use for future planting.

Tasha says you can also trick the ginger into an early harvest. “To initiate premature senescence, cut the top few inches of leaves to reduce photosynthesis. Then harvest in 2–3 weeks.”

When harvesting, you can dig out and use the whole rhizome. Alternatively, you can cut away a piece of the rhizome if the plant is still growing. In this case, cut a piece that is at least 2 inches from the stock. The rest of the plant will continue to grow.

Now that you know how to grow ginger at home and harvest it, it’s time to enjoy it. Be sure to check out my recipe for homemade ginger ale. It tastes so much better than the canned stuff!

FAQ About Growing Ginger Plants

Where does ginger come from?

Interestingly enough, we have no idea where ginger originally comes from. According to Tasha, “It’s considered a cultigen, or a plant that exists as a result of human cultivation. We don’t know its origin or when humans started using it. We only know that it would not exist without us.”

How long does it take to grow ginger?

Mature ginger takes about ten months to harvest after planting. You can have baby ginger after 6-8 months.

Can you grow ginger from a piece of ginger?

Yes, and this is the fastest way to do it. Choose a plump and healthy looking rhizome to start. Cut it up into pieces that are about 1 to 1 ½ inches big. Make sure each piece has an eye (the little growth bumps). Let it sit for 1-2 days until a slight crust has formed, then it’s ready to be planted.

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Stephanie Rose

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August 20, 2024
Plant a Backyard Food Forest for an Abundant Source of Food – Garden Therapy

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Ditch the vegetable garden and redesign your food garden as a forest! Food forests are a traditional but seriously cool practice of growing your own self-reliant mini forests that produce tons of food. This guide covers all the layers of the food forest and how you can start designing your own edible forest garden.

Until recently, biologists saw ancient pockets of food forests that exist within tropical rainforests as accidental. But, increasing evidence shows these forest gardens as a result of deliberate cultivation by Indigenous Peoples.

These forest gardens are filled with a variety of food, layered, interconnected, and self-sustaining. In my home province of British Columbia, evidence shows there were food forests planted more than 150 years ago!

Today, you can still plant these amazing self-reliant ecosystems right in your backyard. This guide covers all the tips to start planning your epic food forest.

Food forests can include all kinds of plants, including edible flowers.

This post will cover…

This food forest is one of the many self-reliant garden projects you’ll find in my book The Regenerative Garden. If you’re looking for more ideas on how to flip the traditional garden up on its head in lieu of more sustainable spaces, be sure to check it out!

What is a Food Forest?

Food forests consist of a host of beneficial plants carefully selected and arranged to mimic a natural forest system. Together, they boost each other up creating a self-sustaining mini-ecosystem designed to give you plenty of food and materials.

There are many similarities between a food forest and a guild. The plants in a food forest make up several guilds all working together to support and feed one another in many different ways.

People often use the words “guilds” and “food forests” interchangeably. However, a food forest’s design specifically produces the highest amount of consumable by-products, such as food, medicine, and craft materials, in a small footprint.

Of course, food forests also build soil and attract pollinators, creating a cohesive ecosystem that is regenerative and long-lasting without the need for human effort to maintain it.

What the ideal food forest would look like.

Food Forest Benefits

A food forest is not just efficient use of space to grow food but it is also a fully self-sustaining ecosystem. Once planted, gardeners can walk away from a food forest for many years only to return and find it flourishing with a large amount of food. Especially when you compare it to a traditional vegetable garden!

Food forests can be grown in many climates, including dry lands, the tropics, temperate climates, and more forested regions. You can customize them exactly to your microclimate to get an abundant harvest over a long period of time.

Food forests are also incredibly low maintenance. There’s no need for extra fertilizer, as the natural mulch from the trees and plants recycles nutrients. Since perennials tend to have deeper root systems, there is little need for watering.

These perennials also protect the soil. Since there’s no need to dig after initially planting, the soil structure and vast soil ecosystem below remain undisturbed and allowed to flourish.

How to Start a Food Forest

Food forests are an ecological community all working together to support one another to grow and thrive. This type of ecosystem thrives with biodiversity, including plants, animals, and insects. The plants in the food forest are characterized by the layers in which they are growing.

The plant choice is completely dependent on your climate, type of soil, and amount of sunlight and water. Some food forests are only native plants while others incorporate non-native and even exotic plants.

Always think big picture when planning your food forest. Try to make the space as open as possible, allowing for not only shade but dappled shade and sunny areas. Your food forest can be as large or as small as you like.

Think beyond what’s immediately visible. A major part of the food forest is the soil itself. Prior to planting, ensure the soil has everything it needs.

You’ll also need to support wildlife as well. In the food forest, wildlife can keep out the bad bugs and assist with pollinating.

Planting food forests in community spaces is a great initiative to aid with food security.

Food Forest Layers

What exactly is in a food forest? There are many layers to growing an edible forest garden to efficiently use up the space and produce as many useful materials as possible. Listing them from sky to soil, here are the components that make up the structure of a food forest.

Overstory Trees

The overstory is made up of the large foundation trees around which the food forest is based. The size of an overstory tree is what sets the overall footprint of the food forest. Majestic, 100-foot-tall trees create a wide footprint for planting, while smaller fruit trees that reach 25-30 feet can be planted in groups.

Keep in mind that the tallest canopy trees can be difficult to harvest properly. Much of the food grown will feed wildlife or turn into compost. When the tree reaches maturity, it will still provide plenty to eat as well.

Many urban spaces aren’t able to choose their own overstory tree. You can work with what you got!

Understory Trees

Understory trees grow shorter and tolerate a little bit of shade beneath the overstory trees. Typically, these are native trees, such as dogwood and redbud, or ones that tolerate shade such as filbert and pawpaw.

These trees can also be planted with succession in mind as they are ones that leaf and fruit earlier to take advantage of the sun before the overstory trees create shade.

Try to plant native understory trees in your food forest.

Shrub and Bushes

The shrub layer consists of perennials that have multiple woody stems that generally grow about 2-12 feet high. These are often berry plants that also provide wildlife habitat and wind protection.

Perennials are key to having easy to care for food forests.

Epiphytes

Epiphytes are not usually included as a layer in traditional food for people. However, they do provide food sources for humans. An epiphyte is a plant that doesn’t grow in soil but instead attaches itself to the surface of another plant and gets its nutrients and water from the air.

Moss and lichen are examples of epiphytes that grow well in shade and provide an important food source for wildlife. They also contribute to the biomass of the soil as they fall and decompose. Fallen lichen such as usnea can be harvested as a medicinal herb.

Moss naturally grows in my local ecosystem.

Vining Plants

Climbing plants such as vines and bines are a way to take advantage of the vertical space of a garden to produce more food products. Some annuals (such as beans) produce lots of food and naturally die back after food production. Other plants (such as hops) are also productive, but they can easily take over if not properly managed.

You can choose perennial or annual vining plants.

Herbaceous Plants

The herbaceous layer below the woody layer is filled with annual, biennial, and perennial plants. They’re either self-seeded or grow back from their roots but, either way, they die back each year.

Herbaceous plants vary in their sun and shade needs so plant the sun-lovers on the sunny side of the food forests and the shade-lovers on the shadier sides. This layer is essential for food production as well as for creating organic mater that mulches and feeds the soil.

Feverfew and lavender are both herbaceous perennial herbs…and beautiful flowers!

Mushrooms

Another layer not typically included in traditional seven-layer food forests is mushrooms. However, both nutritional and medicinal fungi grow well in forest environments. Introducing mushrooms into your food forest is a great way to include another layer of consumables that will greatly benefit the entire ecosystem.

Mushroom logs. Mushrooms like to grow in shady, moist conditions.

Groundcovers

The groundcover layer consists of herbaceous annuals, perennials, and biennials that grow low to the ground (such as strawberries, chickweed, clover, and herbs) but can also include ground vines (such as squash and sweet potatoes).

Root Plants

Root plants allow us to improve soil structure by aerating the soil and also to grow nutritious food crops just below the soil’s surface.

Garlic is a great root plant as it’s planted in the fall and can be harvested in mid-summer.

And that wraps up all the layers of the food forest! Now you can start planning your own using plants that uniquely fit your space. Let me know in the comments below how your edible forest garden turns out.

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Stephanie Rose

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August 9, 2024
Buying a Plant: 6 Tips for Choosing Seedlings for Your Garden – Garden Therapy

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Don’t just grab the first plant you see! Pick up your seedling and give it a thorough check with these tips on how to choose garden plants and veggies. Spoiler alert: avoid buying a plant that’s already flowering.

If I’m being honest, I can’t drive by the garden centre without stopping and taking a peek. Or I’ll stop in for a bag of coconut coir and somehow walk away with two tomato plants, some pansies, and a blueberry bush.

When I’m shopping for plants, I’ve reached a point where I can look at a seedling and instantly know whether it’s healthy.

But when you’re first starting out, thoroughly checking a plant to ensure it’s thriving before you bring it home is always a good idea.

After all, the last thing you want is to spend your money on a plant that will die two weeks later or produce few flowers or fruit compared to others in the batch.

So, let me tell you what I look for when buying a plant.

Healthy tomato seedling

How to Choose Plants For Your Garden

Here are my dos and my don’ts when it comes to knowing what plant to buy. It’s pretty easy to weed out the unhealthy plants when you know what to look for.

DO: Look at Foliage

The very first thing I do, especially when I’m buying vegetable plants, is ensure that all the leaves have a healthy colour. I want to avoid any with yellowing or brown spots.

This rule only applies to the “true leaves,” AKA the adult leaves. If the bottom layer of baby leaves, known as the cotyledon, is yellowing and falling off, that’s completely normal. Think of it like losing your baby teeth to make room for your adult teeth.

It’s even better if you see some new tiny growth emerging up top, as you know the plant is actively happy and growing.

DO: Check for Stem Damage

Like checking the foliage, you’ll also want to give the stem a quick check before buying a plant. Ensure there are no breaks and that the stem is sturdy. It should be able to handle the weight of all the growth on top and the potential fruit to come.

These cucumber and kale seedlings are a little small yet. Buy plants with at least two sets of true leaves (adult leaves).

DO: Analyze the Plant’s Shape

Compact and full plants are ideal. Of course, this depends on the plant’s natural growth. But just because it’s tall doesn’t make it better.

For instance, if I’m looking at a bunch of tomato plants, I will buy one that’s more compact. If it’s too tall and spread out, it didn’t receive enough light while growing and has gotten leggy. The compact growth will be stronger in the long run.

These tomato seedlings didn’t get enough light from the grow lights and became leggy.

DO: Check the Root Systems

If everything’s looking good on top, you’ll also want to take a peek at what lies below. First, you can lift up the pot and check for roots coming out of the bottom.

If you see lots, it means the plant is rootbound. This just means you’ll need to get it planted ASAP if you buy it. It also may be harder to break up the roots while planting.

I also like to hold the bottom of the stem and gently pull it from the plastic pot if I’m able so I can check the roots. This just allows me to make sure there are no brown or mushy roots, as some unhealthy plants can have root rot, and ensure that I can gently break up the roots when planting.

This basil plant was actually made of many small seedlings, and I could gently split them and their roots apart to make more basil plants.

DO: Look for Signs of Pests and Disease

The last thing you want to do is bring pests or diseases back to your healthy plants at home. With houseplants, fungus gnats are super easy to transfer between plants, so you want to ensure you see no little guys flying when you give your plant a gentle shake.

Otherwise, look under the leaves, at the leaf nodes, on the stem, and at the top of the soil for any suspicious pest or fungus activity.

DON’T Choose Plants That Are Already Flowering

This may sound counterintuitive, but you want to avoid already flowering plants and look for ones that don’t have fruit on them yet, specifically seedlings and young plants.

If a vegetable already has some fruit, it’s stressed out in the pot and trying to set out fruit and complete its life cycle.

We don’t want that.

We also don’t want to eat anything that grew on the plant before it gets to your house, as it could be coated in herbicides and pesticides from the nursery.

Of course, this rule does not apply to bedding plants or ornamental flowers. This is more so for fruits and vegetables and plants that only flower once per season.

Zucchini flower

If you have any more questions about buying plants or starting your garden, leave them in the comments below, and I’ll get back to you as soon as I’m able.

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Stephanie Rose

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May 27, 2024
Do I Need to Buy Organic Plants and Seedlings?

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So many people are picking up organic gardening (yay!), but finding organic plants can become tricky. Organic plants must undergo a rigorous certification process, making them harder to find. But here’s why you may not actually need to buy organic seedlings.

I’m a proud organic gardener, as well as a regenerative one. I’ve always shied away from adding harsh and synthetic chemicals to my garden, instead trying other maintenance methods to keep them out.

Recently, a friend of mine who is a beginner gardener asked me if he needed to buy organic seedlings.

Which is a great question! I immediately asked him why he wanted them to be organic, as your reasoning is a big factor. It’s harder to grow organically, and beginner gardeners will definitely struggle with pest, fungal, and growth issues at first.

Today, I’m answering his question and giving you the low down on what makes a plant organic…and why you may not actually need to buy organic seedlings.

Like this basil, it’s very important to me that all my edible plants are grown organically in my garden as I consume them.

What Makes a Plant Organic?

Many gardeners are leaning into organic gardening, trying to make their gardens healthier for their local ecosystem. Organic gardening naturally supports and maintains soil and plants without using synthetic pesticides, herbicides, and fertilizers.

Organic methods utilize other methods to help combat common issues that affect plants. For instance, to maintain good soil, you might rotate your crops, use compost and green manure, and allow certain weeds to grow.

For organic growers and nurseries, organic applies to more than just growing. It also involves how they handle, package, and transport their organic plants.

To be certified organic, growers must adhere to a strict set of standards that include using organic practices on their land for more than three years, detailed record keeping, regular inspections and audits, and more.

It’s a lot of work to be a certified organic grower!

If your plant is edible but not grown organically, you should consume only the new growth after it is planted in your garden.

The Reality of Organic Plants

If you want organic plants in your garden, they must be from a certified organic grower. It may be difficult to find an organic nursery near you.

Many steps along the way may prevent seedlings from being organic, such as the farm not being certified even if they didn’t use any synthetic products or the whole truck being sprayed with a fungicide in transport to ensure that nothing arrives at the garden centre with the disease.

It can even depend on what type of soil mix was used. These synthetic products can last a long time in the soil and can find their way into many potting mixes.

The seedlings at the West Coast Seeds were organic, as you can see below.

Do You Need to Buy Organic Plants as an Organic Gardener?

I’ll let you in on a little secret…I don’t always buy organic plants. While I love supporting organic growers whenever I can, I don’t make a big fuss about ensuring every plant I own is certified organic.

When you buy the little pot and seedlings from the garden centre, don’t worry too much about whether they are organic. As soon as you put it in your garden, the soil will act as an amazing biofilter. The non-organic elements will filter into the soil quite quickly.

I wait for a new growth cycle for vegetables, edible flowers, and herbs before I harvest anything. Once those initial leaves have fallen off and your plant grows new leaves and flowers, it will be pretty darn close to organic.

If you really want organic seedlings, I suggest you grow them from your own seeds. This is singlehandedly the best way to know exactly what goes into the production of your seedlings.

Soil is a powerful biofilter that does an amazing job of cycling out pesticides and herbicides from our plants.

Frequently Asked Questions About Growing Organically

What is the best organic fertilizer for plants?

Compost is garden gold, especially if you make it yourself. It does so many amazing things for the garden, including providing nutrients for your plants, building up organic matter in your soil, improving soil water retention, reducing erosion, moderating soil temperature, and more.

You can also create your own organic fertilizers, customizing them based on what your plants need. My book Garden Alchemy has a full chapter of recipes dedicated to fertilizers.

What organic fungicide for plants can I use?

I find that prevention is the best way to prevent fungal growth. Fungi thrive in moist, wet conditions. You want to ensure that you properly space out your plants so they have enough air circulation and don’t overwater them.

Damping off is very common for seedlings, and I make a chamomile fungicide spray to help combat it.

What are some organic pesticides for plants?

There are so many ways to tackle pests in the garden organically, and I find the best way to do it is to ask why they are there in the first place. Then, you’ll want to do everything you can to change the conditions so the pests don’t find your plants welcoming anymore. A couple of common pest control methods are companion planting and inviting beneficial insects.

If needed, I make my own pest control spray to apply to plants that need immediate help and attention.

Let me know if you have any more questions about growing organic plants and seedlings in the comments below.

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Stephanie Rose

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May 22, 2024
How Long Do Dried Herbs Last? – Garden Therapy
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Over time, we collect quite a bit of herbs. From harvesting plenty from the garden to buying for that one recipe, you might have quite an array of herbs in your house. But how long do dried herbs last? To make sure you’re getting the most out of your stash, here’s when to toss them and when to keep them.

Herbs are wonderful, magical things. I dedicate most of my garden to herbs, allowing me to harvest fresh herbs and dry them to use in my home apothecary. Beyond cooking, I use these herbs for teas, tinctures, balms and salves, cleaning products, and beauty and self-care products.

Herbs can have such distinct and useful tastes, smells, and herbal properties. And you really don’t need much to get the full benefits of the herbs.

Because you often only need so little, you can be left with a bunch of herbs. If you’re wiping off dust from the top of bottles or reaching for a rarely used herb in the back of the cabinet, you’re probably wondering how long do dried herbs last anyway? Can I still use this?

Let’s talk about the shelf life of herbs, whether you’re using them for cooking beauty recipes or for their medicinal value.

The Shelf Life of Herbs

First things first, we’re talking about herbs rather than spices here. Herbs come from the leaves, while spices come from the rest of the plant, including the seed, stem, or root.

Dried herbs usually last one to three years if used for cooking or eating. However, that depends on factors such as how and where they’re stored and whether or not they’re whole or powdered.

Herbs last longer when in whole form. Once they’re grounded, they’re more exposed to the elements.

If you’re using herbs for cooking, feel free to give them a taste! They won’t go bad like typical food; they’ll just lose their flavour.

Can Dried Herbs Go Bad?

Herbs do not go bad in the same sense that other old food might. There will often be no signs that they have gone rancid or mouldy. There is no harm in having old herbs, but you just may not be experiencing the benefits.

The biggest tell with dried herbs is the colour and smell. Notice any signs of discolouration or a faint smell. If the smell is faint or non-existent, the herb has likely lost its potency.

If you’re dealing with a powdered herb, look for clumping. This is a sure sign that moisture has entered.

If you bought the herbs, the original container or packaging might have a date listed. This could be an expiration date or a sell-by date. The herbs will last much longer than the date listed, but it will give you an indication of their age.

Label your herbs with the name and date.

Do Medicinal Herbs Expire?

Things are a little different if you’re using herbs for medicinal purposes or for their herbal properties. Once again, you won’t be harmed by using old herbs, but you may not see the benefits.

The older herbs get, the less potent they get. If you’re using herbs for medicinal reasons or in beauty products, I recommend going with dried herbs that are less than one year old. These will have the best potency for your products.

It’s also important to remember that different herbs have different life spans. For instance, lemon balm loses much of its medicinal value soon after harvest. So, I never use dried lemon balm, only fresh lemon balm, for its herbal properties.

Ensure your herbs are fully dry before you store them. You don’t want any moisture getting trapped inside the storage containers.

How to Keep Dried Herbs Fresher for Longer

You can prolong the life of your dried herbs by using these tips.
- Keep them away from light, both artificial and natural, by keeping them in a cupboard or drawer.
- Have tight lids. You want to seal them as tightly as possible to keep the oxygen and moisture out.
- Store your herbs in a cool place. Room temperature is quite alright, but if you live somewhere warm, you may want to store your herbs somewhere colder than the rest of your house. But not the fridge! The fridge has too much moisture and light.
- Use glass storage. Plastic is more permeable to moisture and plastic.
- Only open your herbs when you need to use them. You want to keep as much oxygen away from the herbs as possible.
Keep those lids tight and secure to keep your herbs as fresh as possible.

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Stephanie Rose

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April 10, 2024
Raised Beds vs. In Ground—Which is Better for Gardening? – Garden Therapy

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Raised beds have taken the gardening world by storm, and just about every vegetable gardener claims at least one raised bed in their design. But are raised beds better for gardening? People feel passionate about gardening in raised beds vs in ground beds, so let’s talk about the benefits and the drawbacks of each.

In my old garden, I used a combination of raised beds and in ground beds. All of my perennials and herbs were in the ground, while I reserved one large raised bed for my vegetables.

Just a sliver of my garden had full sun to grow my vegetables. So my solution was to make a unique stacked raised bed where I could optimize my growing space. It worked perfectly for someone with a small garden and as someone with mobility issues.

As for my home, there is one big raised bed left behind by previous owners that is completely impractical. It’s goes right up against a neighbour’s fence, meaning it’s difficult to access. So I’ll actually be removing it this summer!

There is always going to be a case for both sides of growing in raised beds vs in ground ones. So let me break down what you can expect from either option.

Raised Bed vs In Ground Beds

In ground beds are what’s more traditional, and what I’m sure most of your existing gardening beds are. This is when you grow your plants straight into the native soil. There is no turf or lawn, just soil ready for you to plant in.

Raised beds have four walls, creating an enclosed space. These edges can be made of wood, brick, plastic, concrete, or other building materials. They vary significantly in size, with some being small and portable and others large and fixed to the ground.

In ground beds can handle plants of all sizes.

Are Raised Beds Better for Gardening?

When it comes down to it, it all depends on the soil quality. For some, their backyard has wonderful beds of soil, whether you put your all into making it so or inherited some darn good soil already.

For some, they don’t have great soil. Perhaps they have drainage issues or compact, clay soil. In some of these cases, it’s easier to start from scratch with a raised bed rather than try to fix the soil. Leave it to the perennials to fix it up instead!

There are many pros and cons for raised beds vs in ground ones. It all depends on what your current issues are, what you hope you grow, and what space you have. I’ll break this down further, so you can figure out what kind of bed is best for you!

Raised beds are great for communal spaces to ensure everyone has designated space.

Pros of Raised Beds

Raised beds are very trendy in gardening right now. They have a distinct neat and orderly look that many home gardeners appreciate. Even when there’s nothing growing in them, they can provide some winter interest. But there are a lot more positive things to consider besides the orderliness of a raised bed.

Space Saver

These raised beds can give you extra space in your gardening. If you have limited existing growing space, say from a paved patio or large deck, you can grow plenty in raised beds.

They’re also great for small spaces that need to perfectly manage their space, such as balcony growers or small urban gardens.

See this guide on square foot gardening for tips for maximizing space.

Keep Pests Away

While no garden is going to be completely pest free, raised beds can give you a leg up in keeping the pests away. Since the raised bed isn’t on level ground, it’s out of stomping and chomping range for specific pests like snails, slugs, and rabbits. I grow my lettuce in a wine barrel to keep them away from slugs!

If the raised bed has a bottom or is lined, it can also protect from underground dwellers like gophers or moles.

And if you have small kiddos running around, it can also keep the garden away from curious hands and stomping feet. Same goes for dogs! Though cats seem to be able to reach wherever they set their heart on.

More Accessible

One of the biggest draws of raised beds vs ground beds is that they can be more accessible. Those who have injuries or disabilities may have difficulty in reaching and tending to ground beds.

If you have a raised bed that is higher up, you don’t have to bend or lean as much. It can make gardening much more accessible for anyone.

It’s also great for children who are helping you in the garden. They’re less likely to step or kneel on things when there is that separation.

This stacked planter allowed me to harvest and tend to vegetables with limited bending.

Less Weeding

For most people, they will find that they have to do less weeding with a raised bed. With new weed-seed-free soil, less weeds are likely to pop up. The soil is sterile when taken care of properly.

The borders also help to keep out new weeds, especially those that spread easily through roots like crab grass or clover.

However, it should be noted that if you place a raised bed over top of where turf or weeds used to be and don’t have a lined bottom, the weeds can still creep their way in.

Of course, you’ll still get weeds no matter what—many are carried in the wind. So it’s not a fool proof solution!

High-Quality Soil

When you start a new raised bed, you’re immediately going to have some top-grade soil. If you are starting a ground bed, it can sometimes take a few years to build up the soil to be of high-quality.

Soil can be difficult for many reasons, like lots of roots from a tree that make it difficult to plant into or lots of debris and rocks that make it difficult to use.

Soil Temperatures

Raised beds heat up much more quickly than in ground beds. You can get an earlier start outside in the spring when temperatures begin to warm up in raised beds.

Raised beds (and containers, which are essentially small raised beds) are great for heat loving vegetables as they stay warmer in the summer than the ground.

It should be noted that it goes the opposite way in the cooler season. The ground will be slower to freeze and cool, while raised beds will cool quickly. So if you have anything sensitive to the cold, raised beds are not as well insulated in the fall and winter.

Better Drainage

If a raised bed is set up properly, it can have better drainage than in ground beds. This is especially helpful in super rainy areas or if your yard has drainage issues and can collect soggy soil.

That being said, raised beds can pool water at the base if it isn’t set up for proper drainage. So make sure you set it up right to take advantage of this pro.

Peppers grow well in containers and raised beds since they like higher soil temperatures.

Cons of Raised Beds

For every pro, there is a con. Many of these pros have other considerations that should also be noted. In some cases, in ground beds are a better option than raised ones. Here are some of the not-as-great aspects of growing plants in a raised bed.

More Expensive

You don’t need much to start growing in the ground. You can get started instantly, and don’t have to worry about buying extra building materials or bucket loads of soil.

Speaking of soil, it can get pretty pricey when you’re filling a whole raised bed (or two) full of it. I always suggest adding a layer beneath of other organic material such as branches and leaves. But even then, it will degrade and you’ll find yourself topping off with soil the next year.

While you have the initial building costs of the raised bed, it may also require upkeep down the road. Especially if you use wood, you may find yourself needing to replace panels just a few years after constructing it.

This space would work better as an in ground bed since it’s right against a wall and not very accessible.

Requires More Resources

Plants in the ground have a big leg up on the competition for being low maintenance. They have access to endless soil beneath them where they can access all the nutrients they need and plenty of water.

I never add any supplemental fertilizer to my in ground beds. Everything they need is already in the soil. I add layers of compost when I have some ready and allow leaf mulch to degrade in the fall. And that’s all they need!

Meanwhile, plants in raised beds and containers will require supplemental fertilizer to get the nutrients they need. And oftentimes, watering will wash away a good chunk of the nutrients too.

In ground beds also retain water much better. They can access moisture from deeper in the ground during droughts. Raised beds dry out quite quickly, and you’ll find yourself watering them almost daily in the peak of the summer.

Raised beds can also be difficult to irrigate. You’re working against gravity after all.

Adding a layer of compost to my in ground beds are all they need. No fertilizer required!

Limited Growing Space

When designing a raised bed, it’s important to consider how deep you make it, as this will limit what you can grow. Anything that has deep roots will have difficult growing in raised beds. With edges and bottoms, plants has difficult getting the horizontal spread and depth they need.

See this guide for how deep a raised garden bed should be.

More Permanent

In some cases, raised beds can be portable. This is great for moving plants around as your design changes and to optimize growing conditions such as amount of sunlight.

But in most cases, raised beds are actually quite permanent. As your design changes, you get stuck with a large and immobile structure. For new gardeners, the first design doesn’t always stick. You learn how other designs and systems work better for you.

When you spend time and money building a raised bed, many are hesitant to take it all down and start from scratch. But sometimes that’s the only solution for a new, better working garden design.

Most raised beds are too large to be moved if you want to change your garden design or layout.

Time and Energy

Depending on what your biggest problems are, a raised bed vs an in ground bed can take more time or energy. Besides the initial build of a raised bed, they also will require more daily watering and fertilizer than a raised bed. But, you may find yourself not having to fight weeds or pests as much.

Likewise, an in ground bed doesn’t require much set up. You save time on watering and requiring little fertilizer. But you may end up spending more time weeding, amending soil, and fighting slugs and snails.

Take the time to think about your space, what you plan on growing, and your individual needs. Weigh these pros and cons I’ve outline in raised beds vs in ground beds, and see what fits your garden best!

FAQ About Raised Gardening Beds

What vegetables should not be grown in a raised bed?

Avoid any large vegetables. This means those that sprawl above ground and below ground. Vegetables with large root systems, such as pumpkins or watermelons, may have difficulty if the bed isn’t deep enough.

Anything vining can also be difficult. Make sure you have a trellis to encourage these plants to grow up, not across the bed.

Also avoid any vegetables that may be difficult to access, such as potatoes or corn.

What veggies do best in raised beds?

Veggies with shallow root systems do exceptionally well in raised beds. They’re quite versatile, so you can even put them in containers.

Root vegetables like loose soil, which also makes them a great candidate for raised beds since there is no foot traffic to compact the soil.

Heat loving vegetables may also benefit from raised beds as the soil temperature is warmer in the summer.

Is it cheaper to make or buy raised garden beds?

If you’re handy, it’s usually cheaper to make your raised garden beds yourself. If you can use reclaimed wood, even better. Here’s how you can make your own raised garden bed.

Do you have a preference for raised beds vs ground ones? Let me know in the comments below.

Tips for Growing Vegetables in a Raised Bed

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Stephanie Rose

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March 27, 2024
Why Don’t Cities Plant Fruit Trees? The Call for Urban Orchards – Garden Therapy

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Have you ever noticed that most streets are tall, mighty oaks, maples, spruce, and pine? Very few fruit trees are planted on public property, despite their ability to provide plenty of food. Here’s why cities don’t often plant fruit trees, but how urban orchards may be the solution.

If you were to ask me what my dream world would look like, you bet the cities would be covered in greenery. Fruit trees would be the star of the show, lining every street where we could all take one big juicy bite as we walked by.

This isn’t the first time I’ve discussed replacing street trees with edible ones. Many people worldwide are dealing with food insecurity and looking for reliable green spaces to help.

City and street trees seem like the obvious solution, right?

Well, it’s a little more complicated than planting a peach tree and letting anyone who wants a bite have one. Here are some of the many reasons why cities don’t plant fruit trees.

In Vancouver, many of the streets are lined with cherry blossom trees. Don’t be fooled by the name! They don’t produce fruit.

Fruit Trees Are Messy

One of the main reasons we love fruit—how juicy it is—is also a big reason why we don’t plant fruit trees on public streets. They’re just plain messy!

If no one picks the fruit, it will create a mess on top of cars, sidewalks, and streets, and all that fruit will also get tracked inside.

And when you have lots of available fruit on the ground, you’re going to attract wildlife. This can mean more bugs, pests, rodents, and even larger mammals like deer or bears.

More fruit and nuts will attract all kinds of wildlife.

Not Enough Infrastructure

To keep away the mess, someone needs to be there to harvest all the fruit or clean it up if people aren’t going to pick the fruit themselves.

A good fruit tree requires a lot of maintenance and pruning to achieve the best shape and to direct attention from the tree to growing food. And we all want to make sure they look good.

If you have city trees by your property, you already know that they are neglected by the city. Getting the manpower needed to maintain these trees costs a pretty penny.

Besides paying for labour, cities will need more equipment to maintain and harvest these trees efficiently. Which, yes, costs more money.

Dogwood fruits are bitter and astringent, but birds love them.

Cleanliness of the Fruit

One of the best parts about growing your own food is that you know exactly what went into making it. As an organic gardener, I want to keep my plants as far away from herbicides and pesticides as possible.

But with food grown on public land, I don’t get much of a say. Cities can spray whatever they want on the fruit, and they likely would keep maintenance easy and pests low.

There is also the matter of pollution. Now, this depends on where the fruit trees are planted. But if they’re close to busy streets, they might be covered in soot from exhaust. The pollution can also make its way into the fruit itself, as the trees look for ways to get rid of what it’s absorbing.

It’s easier to trust food you’ve grown in your own garden.

Poor Growing Conditions

It’s no secret that the sidewalk strip is not an easy place to grow things. They don’t call it the hell strip for nothing! The soil here is often compacted, salty, and polluted, leading to an unhealthy tree more susceptible to disease and sub-standard growth.

The plants are also more susceptible to damage from higher street traffic and have to battle with concrete and asphalt to grow good roots.

Because of all this, cities often plant hardy trees on streets. These trees don’t mind the poor growing conditions and will thrive and provide shade.

Fruit trees tend to be small, and larger trees can actually help lower temperatures. Cities are big heat islands, where the paved roads and pathways combined with the buildings amplify and trap the heat. The more surfaces that are covered in green and shade, the fewer heat islands there are.

So, How Do We Improve Food Security With Fruit Trees?

City fruit and nut trees are definitely an option, and many cities have started planting more of them. I’ve spotted many folks in my own neighbourhood collecting chestnuts!

Edible cities and edible parks are becoming increasingly popular. These are public lands with edible trees, bushes, and vegetables that anyone is welcome to. Most will take formerly overgrown or derelict areas and make them useful for the community.

Urban orchards are another similar practice. Like community gardens, these are orchards where people collectively maintain fruit trees and harvest their own fruit. For instance, The Orchard Project is a big charity that focuses on creating more urban orchard hubs in the UK.

In Vancouver, we have the Copley Community Orchard. You might have one near your home too!

Most of these programs and initiatives rely on volunteers to do the maintenance, not city workers. Volunteers will take care of the plants, harvest the fruit, and help distribute it to those who can benefit most.

Urban orchards are great for those who don’t have access to a garden for themselves.

Why Are Urban Orchards Important?

Fruit and nut trees are some of the most amazing things you can grow. They are a staple in food forests and other edible landscapes. Once established, they provide a generous bounty for many years and require very little input.

When accessible, they’re one of the best ways to produce plenty of food and help reduce food insecurity.

The Philadelphia Orchard Project is a great example. They have over 68 partner sites where they produce 200-300 pounds of produce a week. With their harvests, they donate to food pantries and sell produce at farmer’s markets at an accessible price.

Fruit trees also allow people to access and harvest culturally significant foods. There are so many edible plants out there that we’re not eating simply because they’re difficult to find in a grocery store. As a bonus, diversifying what we eat is great for the environment, too.

Native edible trees are some of the best options to include in urban orchards and city streets.

Final Thoughts on Fruit Trees

I’m a big fan of fruit and nut trees. If you are lucky enough to have an edible city tree, consider stepping in and lending a hand to its care and harvest. And if you don’t have one, consider planting one by your fence line. This allows others to enjoy a bite or two as they pass by!

If you can’t harvest it all for yourself, share your bounty with the community. I’m positive plenty of people will jump at the opportunity for organic, local fruit.

More Ways to Grow More Food

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Stephanie Rose

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March 20, 2024
Rare Vegetables and Fruits You Can Only Grow – Garden Therapy
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You won’t find these at the grocery store! These rare vegetables and fruits are hard to come by unless you grow them yourself. Out of the thousands of options of edibles out there, here are a handful of my favourites.

Radish pods

When it comes to the grocery store, produce isn’t selected for its flavour. Fruits and vegetables are chosen based on their size and ability to travel and store well. For instance, you know and recognize orange carrots. But if I grow them, I will grow the red heirloom varieties for their sweeter flavour.

Or tomatoes. The heirloom varieties ripened on the sun have THE best flavour, and those in the grocery store aren’t even close to competing.

Yes, these rare vegetables you can only grow don’t ship or store well. It’s why you won’t see them at the grocery store. But if you don’t grow them yourself, you may never get to taste their splendour.

There are an estimated quarter of a million plants we can use for agricultural purposes. So, of course, I’m only going to name a handful. Use this list of rare vegetables and fruits as a jumping-off point for your own edible garden.

Golden raspberries

The Need for Agricultural Diversity

The Food and Agricultural Organization of the United Nations estimates that we use only 3% of the quarter of a million plants available for agricultural use. Even further, ¾ of the world’s food supply relies on just 12 mega crops, including rice, wheat, and maize.

While our food system is highly productive, it’s extremely fragile. Take a look at bananas, for example. During the later half of the 19th century, the most popular variety of bananas was Gros Michel, known for its taste and resistance to bruising.

However, during the 1950s, a disease known as Panama Disease (banana wilt) swept through and destroyed commercial production of the banana. This forced producers to switch to a new disease-resistant variety, Cavendish. Which now accounts for approximately 47% of the global banana production and could be wiped out by another train of the banana wilt.

Another well-known example is the Great Famine in Ireland. One-third of Ireland’s population relied on potatoes for food, and potato blight infected most crops. An estimated 1 million people died as a direct result, either due to disease or hunger.

We become increasingly vulnerable by focusing on only a few highly productive crops. Climate change makes extreme droughts, flooding, varying temperatures, and disease outbreaks more common, and diversity is the best way to become resilient.

Nettle is actually a super green, but most consider it a weed.

Rare Vegetables and Fruits to Grow at Home

These unusual vegetables and plants are hard to come by, even at a garden centre in some cases. Oftentimes, you can get them from another gardener. Community gardens are great places to share plants!

Sunchokes

Also known as Jerusalem artichokes, these are edible tubers that can be cooked and eaten like a potato. Above ground, they sprout very tall, sunflower-like flowers. They can get up to 5-10 feet tall.

The tubers are very prolific, coming back year after year, even when you think you’ve harvested all of them. They’re very low maintenance.

They have a slightly nutty flavour and should only be eaten in controlled amounts due to causing gas and bloating.

Harvest sunchokes in the fall.

Radish Pods

While radishes may be a very popular vegetable, their seed pods are a lesser-known way of enjoying the vegetable. I came to know radish pods after volunteering at UBC to teach inner-city kids about gardening. Their gardens would be left alone in the summer, meaning the radishes would go unharvested and go to seed.

The radish pods have a slightly spicy taste and an appearance similar to edamame. You can eat them raw like a snap pea or include them in stir-fries, soups, or salads.

Rhubarb

Yes, you can technically get rhubarb at the grocery store. But most people don’t since it’s not the typical kind of plant you seek out. Instead, you usually have a plant in your backyard, or you’re gifted some rhubarb…and realize you’ve got to do something with it!

But I highly recommend we start making rhubarb more mainstream. It’s very prolific, it’s easy to grow, and it’s a perennial.

Only the stalks of rhubarb should be eaten.

Egyptian Walking Onions

This article idea all began with Egyptian walking onions since you can’t really buy them. I inherited my own from a community garden. And once you have them, you’re set.

They get their name from the unusual way they grow. The flowers that bloom at the top of the flower turn into tiny bulbs known as aerial bulbils. As the plant gets heavier, they droop down until the tiny bulbs hit the ground. They plant themselves, slowly walking around the garden.

Ground Cherries

Ground cherries grow low to the ground, with plenty of dark green leaves and small yellow flowers that turn into golden, cherry-sized fruit.

Their taste is similar to tomatillos, with a hint of pineapple flavour. And unlike some other unusual vegetables on this list, they last in their paper husks for up to 3 months. They have built-in storage with their paper husks.

All plants, including ground cherries, in the Physalis genus have papery husks known as calyx.

Luffa Gourds

There’s a chance you’ve had a luffa gourd in your house and didn’t know it. These exotic vegetables are actually most commonly used as an organic shower loofah, but they’re also edible.

They grow on very vigorous vines. When young and tender, you can eat them, and they taste like summer squash. When left to mature on the vibe, they turn fibrous and can dry into these natural shower loofahs.

Tayberry

Tayberries are a cross between raspberries and blackberries. When perfectly ripe, they have a very sweet flavour, but you have to get the timing right, or they’re quite sour.

These berries will turn to mush and fall apart very soon after you pick them. They’re best eaten straight from the vine and won’t ripen anymore once picked.

But in the end, I personally think they’re tastier than both raspberries and blackberries!

These berries take longer to ripen and need to be a bit squishy so they’re not too sour.

Cucamelons

You might know these little green fruits as mouse melons or Mexican sour gherkins. These were a common fruit eaten by the Aztec people and have lost popularity over the years. But they look like little grape-sized watermelons!

Cucamelons taste almost like a citrusy cucumber. I like to pickle them or toss them into salads. Or popped straight from the vine and into my mouth.

Eat a cucamelon in its entirety, popping the skin, seed, and fruit in your mouth.

Honourable Mentions

As I’ve mentioned, I could add many rare vegetables and other edibles to the list. Here are a few unusual vegetables and plants that are worth mentioning:
- Lovage
- Mulberries
- Salmonberries
- Saskatoon berries
- Tomatillo
- Endive
- Winter radishes
- Green amaranth
- Goumi berry
Goumi Berry (Elaeagnus multiflora)

More Edibles to Consider Growing
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Stephanie Rose

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March 4, 2024
Maximize Your Space and Effort With a Layered Garden – Garden Therapy
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At some point, annual veggies took over the popularity contest. We’re so used to seeing neat rows of carrots, cucumbers, beans, and tomatoes that we forget there are other more beneficial ways for the home gardener to grow food. Let me introduce the layered garden to you!

I’m in the midst of planning my next garden at my new house, and I’m thinking big picture. The yard was neglected and minimal, so I’m starting with a pretty well-blank canvas.

I’ll be designing a food forest, which takes some careful planning and a few years of patience. I have an urban garden and a small yard, but even those with a patio garden can employ these more sustainable, regenerative practices.

Christina Chung’s book, The Layered Edible Garden, is based on a concept similar to food forests. Rooted in permaculture, it’s all about maximizing your space with a layered garden based on edible perennials.

These practices are rooted in the same values and energy, so I’m thrilled to share Christina’s approach to the edible garden with you.

Quotes reprinted with permission from The Layered Edible Garden by Christina Chung © 2024. Published by Cool Springs Press.

What is a Layered Garden?

There are many kinds of layered gardens. They are often well-planned and optimize space by combining plants with different heights.

Christina’s layered gardening practice follows a more natural system that’s less intensive on time, energy, and resources. It tries to fill in all the empty spaces in the garden that weeds might otherwise overtake.

“Traditional gardening often means fighting against nature taking over the space and turning it back into the thickly planted, layered space it would be without human intervention,” says Christina.

But a layered garden is also curated. This means it still produces plenty of food similar to traditional veggie gardens. However, it encourages you to think beyond the traditional veggies and focus more on edible perennials.

It follows permaculture practices and sounds very similar to my beloved food forest practice. But Christina’s approach is “more flexible” and perhaps more focused on gardens with small spaces.

You can also include medicinal or herbal plants as well as edible ones.

Why Layered Gardens Are the Way to Go

One of the biggest draws of a layered garden is that it optimizes your space. Many gardeners (myself included) are always looking for more gardening space. But many of us don’t consider the vertical spaces and the gaps. Just think how much you could plant under a tree or shrub!

“Filling in those missing layers creates so much more interest and beauty, and each one offers a chance to add something edible to the mix,” says Christina. “Each added layer can help you get more out of your existing garden space.”

Layered gardening is also great for your local wildlife. Planting a wider range of plants and less common species may attract more pollinators and beneficial bugs. They even act as bonus natural pest control.

One of the most immediate benefits you’ll notice is how much more low-maintenance layered gardening is. A fuller garden means less weeding, which is also great for soil health as it minimizes soil disturbances.

These gardens also rely on perennials more, requiring less seed starting and babying tender young annuals. You will even water less as you rely on perennials more.

Who Should Plant a Layered Garden?

I highly recommend layered gardens for those in an urban setting, as they’re great for those with limited space. It’s just one of the best ways to grow more food in a small space.

But absolutely anyone and any space can practice layered gardening.

It’s great for food gardeners and cooks but will also work for those who want a beautiful space. You can also have a most ornamental layered garden with food options. Or use this method to create a more lush space and minimize empty space.

“This is also a gardening style if you want to be creative and build a garden space that doesn’t look like everyone else’s in your neighbourhood,” says Christina. “Landscapes often take on a depressing sameness, with each garden featuring the same ten plants that are cheaply available at every nursery and big-box store.”

Rather than having distinct rules and practices, layered gardening is more of an overall approach. This means that anyone can benefit and grow from having a layered garden.

How to Start a Layered Garden

The first mindset shift of a layered garden is focusing more on perennials. These will naturally fill in the space with larger trees and shrubs and, as mentioned, require significantly less maintenance and resources.

Since annuals only grow in one season, they require significantly more work. “Supporting all of that quick growth means annuals need more resources,” says Christina. “That means more fertilizer, more water, and richer soil to grow in.”

Perennials also provide year-round interest, have longer harvest seasons, and support the local ecosystem. Yes, perennials will take several years to establish themselves and produce food. But down the line, it’s so little work.

When starting your layered garden, start small and work your way up. Don’t try to overhaul the whole garden in one season. Pick one area and start with that.

Before you rip our existing garden, plan out your layers and consider how you want to use your space. Make sure it’s still enjoyable and that you’re growing what you’re most interested in.

Start with the tallest layer, as this will affect the others. For instance, a large tree could create more shade, and you must ensure all plants match your garden’s conditions.

Fruit trees take a few years to bear fruit but once they do, provide an abundance of fruit.

The “Layers” of a Layered Garden

It’s time we start planning out our layers! I’ll give you a little breakdown of all the different layers, but check out Christina’s book for an in-depth look at the layers and some suggestions on what to grow.

Canopy Tree Layer

Your tallest layer begins with the tallest trees. There’s a good chance you already have large trees on your property or your city boulevard. In most cases, you stick with what you have.

“These are the large trees, reaching over 40 feet (12 m) tall, making them the layer that casts the most shade and has the greatest impact on the rest of your garden space,” says Christina.

If you don’t have any large trees or are starting a garden completely from scratch, the canopy tree layer is one of the biggest decisions in starting your layered garden.

Here are a few examples of canopy trees from Christina:
- Pine
- Sugar maple
- Linden
- Walnut
Subcanopy Layer

Your subcanopy layer consists of small trees. Most common fruit trees fall under this category. They take time to get established and bear fruit, but once they do, they provide plenty of food and year-round beauty.

Christina suggests putting these trees on the edge of your property. “Use subcanopy trees where you need beneficial shade and to gain extra height and screening from foliage, where you want a more compact package than a larger canopy tree,” she says.

Here are a few examples from Christina of subcanopy trees

Flowering quince.

Shrub Layer

The shrub layer is one of the most prolific and versatile layers. Many shrubs can be edible, beautiful, and also work as privacy screens.

Many of us already have shrubs in our backyards. And we love them because they’re so low maintenance and easy to work with.

Here are a sample of shrubs from Christina:

Some shrubs, like blueberries, you can also grow in containers.

Herbaceous Perennial Layer

Your herbaceous perennial layer consists of a lot of perennial vegetables and herbs.

“These plants are smaller than shrubs, so you can pack many of them in even the smallest garden,” says Christina. “There are also many species and varieties to choose from, with lots of edible options.”

Here is a handful of options for this layer:
- Hosta
- Garlic chive
- Anise hyssop
- Mint
- Asparagus
- Daylily
- Giant butterbur
Climber Layer

One of the best ways to use vertical space is by including some climbers in your garden.

“Every building on your property has empty walls that could be covered with beautiful and delicious climbers,” says Christina. You can also create spaces just for your climbers, such as trellises, pergolas, and gates. There are many ways to beautify and utilize a climber.

Here is a sampling of some climbers:

Hops is a beautiful plant also great for sleep and relaxation.

Annual Layer

Yes, there is still room for your traditional veggie garden. After all, how else will you delight in the taste of a freshly grown tomato?

“Annual crops can also be a great option to fill empty spaces in time,” says Christina. “Most of your herbaceous layer will be dormant in the winter, leaving a bare and inedible garden.”

Ground Cover Layer

The low level of the garden shouldn’t be discounted either. Most think of a lawn, but there are more options.

Christina says, “Small, low-growing, carpeting plants play a key role in protecting the soil from erosion and summer heat while also eliminating places for weed seeds to germinate.”

Here are some ground cover options:
- Wild strawberry
- Wild ginger
- Wintergreen
- Thyme
- Nasturtium
The Rhizosphere Layer

Another layer? Yes! There is also plenty going on below the surface. There are many edible and medicinal roots out there. The top of the plant may also contribute to a different layer.

It should be noted that you do need to disturb the soil to plant these veggies. “Choose locations that you can access easily, such as the perimeter of beds or the back of a border,” says Christina.

Here are some examples of edible roots:
- Sunchoke
- Oca
- Taro
- Onions
- Radish
Sunchokes.

And that covers all the layers! For more on this very cool practice of making an edible layered garden, be sure to check out Christina’s book.

More Tips for Growing Food in Urban Spaces
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Stephanie Rose

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February 26, 2024