Tag: General Houseplant Care

I’m guessing that you’re here because you suspect or know that there is some kind of creepy critter crawling on your orchid, philodendron, or succulent.

Do you want to know the secret to ridding your houseplants of pest problems?

No, it’s not a big old vat of insecticide, it’s being able to identify the specific pest that’s causing the issue.

With a solid identification, you can then take steps to address it and prevent future infestations.

There are 11 common pests that feed on houseplants and we’ll help you identify each of them and give you some tips about how to deal with an infestation.

Here’s the list:

In this guide, we won’t talk much about “occasional invaders” like ants, pillbugs, millipedes, slugs, and spiders.

These critters can hitch a ride on plants that are brought in from outdoors but they don’t thrive in an indoor environment. They will typically die off on their own.

Still, it helps to double- and triple-check your plants when you bring them in from outside.

With all of these pests, early identification is vital.

Make it a habit to examine your plants when you water them. Look at the top and undersides of the leaves, along the stems, and at the soil level.

And it goes without saying that healthy plants can better withstand an infestation than those that are stressed from inappropriate environmental conditions.

That means watering, feeding and keeping them in the right light exposure for the type.

Let’s start with one of the most common pests indoors and out:

1. Aphids

I’m willing to bet that if you grow plants long enough, you will come across aphids either indoors or out at some point.

Aphids are tiny sapsucking insects that feed on almost every popular houseplant out there.

There are many different species, most commonly green aphids (Myzus persicae), green peach aphids (M. persicae), and brown ambrosia (Uroleucon ambrosiae).

Some, like melon aphids (Aphis gossypii) are especially bad because they breed all year long in warm locations, like inside your home.

Regardless of the species, they can reproduce fast. One day you’re looking at just a small issue and the next you’re facing a devastating infestation.

Aphids cause leaf yellowing and distortion like curling and wilting. They can also spread diseases and kill off developing flowers. If there are enough of them, they can cause stunted growth or even kill the plant.

They leave behind a sticky substance called honeydew, and this can attract sooty mold.

In addition to these symptoms, you might see the insects themselves. They’re small, but they generally cluster together on the undersides of leaves, and on the stems, especially where the leaves meet the stems.

If you catch it early on, you can usually address the problem with nothing stronger than water. Isolate the plant and spray off the aphids with a strong stream of water.

Do this every few days until you don’t see any left on the plant. Keep the plant isolated for a few more days to be sure they’re all gone and you can move it out of isolation.

2. Caterpillars

Caterpillars are the larvae of a variety of different pest species.

None of them thrive indoors, so these are the pests that will sneak in occasionally and then die off because they can’t complete their life cycle in your home.

If you see any, just put on some gloves, pluck them off, and drown them in soapy water. Not much to worry about.

The exception is if you see worm-like critters in the soil. These grubs can infest the soil and feed on the roots of your plants.

I realize this is a petty complaint when there are pests out there that will kill your prize variegated monstera in a heartbeat. But something about them just drives me up the wall.

Fungus gnats are tiny flying insects in the Orfelia and Bradysia genera. They are small, around one-sixteenth to half an inch long, and they look similar to mosquitos, but they don’t bite humans.

They feed on fungi and other decomposing matter in the soil, not on live plant material.

So the adults won’t hurt your plants, but they will fly around being annoying. To justify my unreasonable hatred, the larvae can be a problem. They feed on plant roots, causing stunted growth and leaving the houseplant vulnerable to disease.

Fungus gnats can reproduce all year round with overlapping generations, so populations can build up quickly.

If you see the adults flying around, put some yellow sticky traps in the soil and reduce the amount of water you’re offering your houseplants.

Fungus gnats love moist soil, so if your plant can handle it, water less often with more water.

Or try the bottom watering method. If you can keep the surface of the soil dry while providing moisture, as happens with bottom watering, it can help to reduce populations dramatically.

4. Leaf Miners

Leaf miners are fairly uncommon, though not unheard of, on houseplants.

If you take your plants outside during the warm months or you just brought home a new addition, they might hitchhike along.

But even if leaf miners are present they’re mostly just a cosmetic issue. In other words, leaf miners shouldn’t cause you to lose any sleep.

The adults are tiny, harmless pests, but the larvae tunnel into the foliage, leaving maze-like trails behind.

They’re most commonly seen on vegetables, but being opportunistic they can impact many different species.

My favorite way to get rid of leaf miners is to gently smash the leaf between my fingers to crush the tunnels and any bugs inside.

Otherwise, pluck off any symptomatic leaves and spray the surface of the soil and all over your houseplant with a spinosad-based pesticide.

Learn more about leaf miners and how to deal with them in our guide.

5. Mealybugs

Mealybugs (Pseudococcus spp.) are super sneaky.

Until populations build up dramatically, they can be hard to spot because they are flat and immobile so they almost blend in with the stems.

Plus, they like to hide in nooks and crannies so you can’t see them even if you do know what to look for.

The adults are oval and flat, without wings. Most have a waxy coating, but some don’t. The coating can be clear, brown, or white, and the pests themselves can be anywhere from cream to black in color.

Citrus mealybugs (Planococcus citri) are the most common species found on houseplants. They’re covered in a fluffy, white, waxy coating.

Before you bring any new plant into your home, quarantine it for a week or two and examine it carefully and repeatedly. Look for both the pests themselves and their cottony white egg sacs.

Mealybugs use their sucking mouthparts to feed on sap of the plant, causing symptoms like yellowing or speckled foliage, aborted flower buds, and stunted growth.

They also leave behind a sticky substance called honeydew. That’s a nice way of saying that they poop out the excess sugars that they consume. This attracts sooty mold, which is a whole other problem.

I’m not going to lie, mealybugs can be difficult to eliminate.

Because they hide in protected areas on the plant, and thanks to the waxy protective coating, they can be hard to find and kill.

You can wipe the pests off with a butter knife, spray them off with a strong stream of water, or wipe them with a cotton swab dipped in isopropyl alcohol to remove their protective coating.

On larger plants, you might need to prune out heavily infested areas, since it’s unlikely you’ll be able to find and kill all the pests.

Bag and dispose of the pruned parts to avoid spreading the pests to other specimens in your houseplant collection.

If you have a large infestation, scrape or wash off as many mealybugs as you can. Then, spray the plant with insecticidal soap.

Make sure to get in all the nooks and crannies to find the hiders, because the soap needs to come in contact with the pests to kill them.

Learn more about mealybugs and how to deal with them in our guide.

6. Mites

No, not spider mites, we’ll come to those later. We’re talking about the microscopic arachnids cyclamen mites (Steneotarsonemus pallidus) and broad mites (Polyphagotarsonemus latus).

Both types of mite hide in the folds of leaves and on stems, feeding on the plant’s sap.

As they feed, they extract chlorophyll and cause the plant to look sickly and pale, or take on a bronze hue.

New growth might be slow or non-existent, the foliage may curl or be distorted, and any flowers or fruits will abort.

The extra bad news is that you have no way to know they’re around until symptoms show up.

So long as you act quickly you should be able to save your plant.

The most effective way to rid the plant of these tiny mites is to submerge it, pot, soil, and all, in a bath of 110°F water for 15 seconds.

This won’t kill most houseplants, but don’t try it on a precious, tender specimen.

You can also treat the plant with a miticide or insecticidal soap. Saturate the houseplant and soil once every two weeks until new, healthy growth emerges.

7. Scale Insects

The first time I saw scale on a houseplant, I thought my specimen just had some weird bumps on the stem. I shrugged and went on with my week.

Next time I looked, the bumps had increased in number and it started to occur to me that maybe there was something wrong with my coffee plant.

Scale insects are more common on outdoor plants than those grown indoors, but if they can sneak inside on a specimen that you bring home from the store or that has been outside for the summer, they will.

There are a few species that will feed on houseplants, with hemispherical (Saissetia coffea) brown soft scale (Coccus hesperidum), fern scale (Pinnaspis aspidistrae), and lecanium scale (Parthenolecanium spp.) being the most common.

Their appearance can vary depending on the species, with some having soft bodies and others having hard shells.

Most are brown but they can be white to black. All are oval and somewhat flattened or round, and usually under an eighth of an inch long.

The females don’t move much. In most species, they lose their legs and stay put, which can make them easy to mistake for a growth or something other than pests.

Even those species that remain mobile tend to hunker down, develop a protective waxy coating, and live out the rest of their lives without moving.

To get rid of scale, dip a toothbrush or cotton swab in isopropyl alcohol and wipe it over the pests.

You can also gently scrape them off with a butterknife or wash the plant with soapy water, but if you do this, be sure to protect the soil so that it doesn’t get wet.

Learn more about how to deal with scale insects in our guide.

8. Spider Mites

Spider mites are super common houseplant pests. These tiny little arachnids are common in dry, warm environments, which is often what we find in our homes.

There are several species that you can find indoors, but the two-spotted spider mite (Tetranychus urticae) is most common.

Closely related to ticks, they resemble spiders but in miniature, with eight legs and an oval body that is under 1/50th of an inch in diameter.

The two-spotted mite is reddish-orange, but other species can be black, brown, or cream.

You probably won’t spot the arachnids themselves, unless you use a magnifying glass. More than likely, it will be the fine webbing that they weave that you’ll notice first.

The pests will also cause the leaves to turn yellow or develop yellow stippling as they use their sucking mouthparts to feed.

Because they thrive in dry climates, you can go a long way toward avoiding them if you keep the soil of your plant moist, if appropriate, and by wiping the leaves down with a damp cloth once a week. This helps remove dust anyway, so it’s a good habit to get into.

Learn more about how to manage spider mites in our guide.

9. Springtails

Before we dive in, just know that springtails – hexapods in the Collembola class – aren’t commonly found on houseplants.

These elongated brown, black, gray, or white pests look a little like fleas, and can jump in much the same manner, but they don’t hang out on humans or animals.

Instead, they prefer moist conditions and soil with lots of organic matter. If you have terrariums, the chances are good you’ll come across them.

Springtails are detrivores, which means they eat decaying plant matter in the soil. Technically, they feed on the fungi and bacteria that feed on the decaying organic matter.

The important point is that they don’t feed on your live plants, so they are more of a nuisance than a big problem.

If you’re finding them on houseplants, the solution is easy: water less often. Let the soil dry out a bit more between watering. Most plants can survive with less water than you think and the springtails will die off or move onto greener pastures.

When it comes to terrariums, hobbyists will intentionally introduce these critters because they can be a positive part of a healthy enclosed environment, so just let them be.

10. Thrips

Thrips (order Thysanoptera) aren’t as common as aphids or spider mites, but like many other critters on this list, they can piggyback on a plant brought in from outside or from the grower’s greenhouse.

Thrips leave stippled silvery markings as they use their sucking mouthparts to feed on the foliage of plants.

These long, narrow black, cream, or brown insects are minuscule, rarely larger than one millimeter in length.

The silvery speckling on the foliage is as a result of the enzymes the pests inject as they feed, but you might also see scarring and yellow halos, which come from egg laying.

They also leave black fecal matter behind as they move around.

11. Whiteflies

If you’ve ever walked past one of your houseplants and saw an explosion of flying bugs, those would have been whiteflies.

Whiteflies aren’t the most common houseplant pests, but they aren’t unheard of. They are often found in greenhouses.

Damage is limited if the population remains small, but if numbers increase, these pests can drain your plant of energy and cause the foliage to fall off.

Whiteflies are insects in the Aleyrodidae family and are closely related to mealybugs and aphids.

Like those relatives, they use their sucking mouthparts to feed on the sap in the plant. As they do, the foliage might turn yellow or have yellow speckles.

As the damage worsens, the leaves will die and fall off the plant. Whiteflies also excrete honeydew, which results in a sticky substance that covers the foliage.

Transitioning a plant back indoors after spending the summer outside isn’t all that difficult, it just takes some forward planning and a little time.

We’ll give you all the information you should know for success, coming right up. Here’s what we’ll cover:

As with many things in life, timing is everything. So let’s sort that out first.

When to Move Your Plants

Every species is different, but most species commonly grown as houseplants need to come inside before the air temperatures drop below 45°F.

Some tropical varieties are extremely sensitive to cold. Species like bird of paradise (Strelitzia spp.) should be brought indoors before the lows reach 55°F, for example.

Because the process takes a week or two, you’ll need to keep an eye on the forecast and plan ahead.

If your area tends to be unpredictable, just plan to start this process in early October or late September to be safe.

Preparation

You can’t just grab your plants and bring them indoors. Whether you realize it or not, your home is typically much darker than even a covered patio.

Unless you have a sunroom with glass walls and ceilings, you need to acclimate them to the lower light conditions.

Before you do that, check, double-check, and triple-check your plants for pests.

Look for sticky honeydew coating the leaves, spots of black sooty mold, tiny white flies, or bumps that can be scraped off the leaves or stem.

Look under the leaves and on the stem under leaves, in particular. That’s where the bugs like to hide.

If you see any pests, spray them off with a blast of water or scrape them off, in the case of scale. You can also treat the plant with insecticidal soap.

Visit our guides to aphids, scale, and whiteflies to learn more about these common houseplant pests.

Heavily infested specimens might need to be disposed of, or at least quarantined until you can resolve the situation. Otherwise, you run the risk of the pests infesting every plant in your home.

I also like to flush the soil and rinse the leaves and stems with water before bringing the plants inside.

This can help remove any pests that are hiding in the soil. To do this, just saturate the soil until water is running out of the drainage holes at the bottom of the pot and allow it to run out for a minute or so.

Then, let the soil drain completely, emptying out the saucer or catchment pot as needed.

Alternatively, set the pot in a sink full of water to submerge it to flush out any insects.

Don’t flush the soil using either technique for species that require dry soil, like succulents or cacti as it will likely take too long to dry and you run the risk of root rot.

You should also check for other hitchhikers in addition to the pests mentioned above. In the past I’ve had lizards and frogs hiding out in my containers. Watch for snakes, spiders, and small rodents, as well. Wipe the bottom of the pot since spiders seem to like that area in particular.

Next, remove any yellowing or dead foliage and any spent flowers.

If you need to repot, now is a good time. If you see roots circling the surface perimeter of the pot or coming out of the drainage holes, it’s definitely time for an upgrade or time to trim back the roots a little.

Not all species require repotting frequently, as many houseplants enjoy being rootbound. 

If you do decide to repot, remove the plant from the container, gently loosen up the roots and brush away the soil.

Place a thin layer of potting medium in the bottom of the container so the plant is sitting at the same height it was originally. Set the plant in the container and fill in around the root ball with potting soil.

Don’t reuse your old soil. I know it’s tempting and I’ve done it a few times myself.

But potting soil becomes depleted of nutrients and compacted over time, meaning air and water can’t move through it. Use fresh potting soil and toss the old stuff into your garden, assuming your plant is pest and disease-free.

The potting soil you use depends on the species you’re growing.

Bring the plant inside and put it in the spot where you intend to keep it. Leave it there for an hour and then take it back outside.

The next day add a half hour to an hour. Add another 30 to 60 minutes the next day. Keep adding time indoors each day for at least a week, but preferably two.

Of course, if the temperature drops suddenly, it’s better to bring your plants inside too quickly than to leave them outside in the cold.

If you do have a sunroom, you’ll still want to transition the plants gradually to the indoor conditions, but you can do it more quickly.

Ongoing Care

It’s entirely possible that, despite your efforts, your plants will still drop a few leaves. Don’t worry, this is totally normal.

Many species respond to an environmental change by dropping their leaves. Trim off any leaves that turn brown or yellow.

However, if the plant drops a majority of its leaves or begins to grow leggy, with long internodes (parts of the stem between each node), it’s a sign that the plant isn’t receiving enough light.

In that case, you’ll want to move the plant to a brighter spot or give it supplemental lighting.

Most plants will need significantly less moisture than they do when they are situated outside during the growing season.

For most species, you should allow the soil surface to dry out between watering.

Learn more about how to water houseplants in our guide.

The same applies for fertilizers. Most popular houseplant species won’t need any fertilization or very little, during the winter months.

Unless the species care guidelines specifically call out for food in the winter, don’t feed your plant.

Our guide to fertilizing houseplants has more information.

Plants living in your home likely grow in relatively small pots compared to those growing outdoors in the garden, and the nutrients in the soil can become depleted quite easily.

In this article, you will learn the basics of plant nutrition, fortifying houseplant soil, fertilizing your flora while watering, and how to identify possible nutrient deficiencies.

Here’s what we’ll cover:

Nutrients that Plants Need

Plants require nutrients for basic biological functions, just like any other organism.

They are able to biosynthesize sugars, fats, and proteins – however, they can’t make mineral nutrients.

Mineral nutrients are separated into two basic categories: macro- and micronutrients.

Macronutrients

There are three nutrients that plants need the most, called primary macronutrients – these are nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), and potassium (K).

Store-bought fertilizers are typically marked by a series of three numbers. A common label is 10-10-10. These numbers describe the relative weight percentage of nitrogen, phosphates, and potassium – often noted with the abbreviation “NPK.”

Nitrogen is essential for the biosynthesis of proteins, and it is a central component of chlorophyll, the green pigment that facilitates photosynthesis. Fertilizers with relatively high nitrogen content can be utilized to encourage rapid growth and foliage development.

Phosphorus is needed for photosynthesis and energy transfer. Growers may use fertilizer with high phosphorus levels for young specimens to promote root development, and later for flower, fruit, and seed formation.

Plants use potassium to mobilize water and nutrients throughout their vasculature, as well as for the activation of many enzymes.

Fertilizers high in potassium are often used to help plants with their water utilization. This can include mitigating drought or helping plants with their internal water pressure.

The application of primary macronutrients by growers can vary depending on the species of plant and its growth stage.

There are also three secondary macronutrients required in smaller amounts. These are calcium, magnesium, and sulfur.

Calcium is essential for maintaining the structure of cell walls, protecting the plant from external stressors. Magnesium and sulfur are involved in chlorophyll synthesis, which is essential for photosynthesis.

For my houseplants, I typically try to avoid flowering and fruit development, as I grow most of my specimens for their foliage.

For this reason, I tend to use fertilizers that are not too high in phosphorus, with a greater emphasis on nitrogen.

If you see the middle number (phosphorus) increased compared to the first (nitrogen) and last (potassium) numbers on the label, I would usually avoid those fertilizers for foliage houseplants.

Instead, I would use that fertilizer for those houseplants that you want to encourage to flower.

Micronutrients

To survive and thrive, plants also need an array of other nutrients, albeit in much smaller quantities than the macronutrients. We call these micronutrients.

Essential micronutrients for plants include magnesium, boron, copper, iron, manganese, molybdenum, nickel, and zinc.

Make sure to select fertilizers that also include these micronutrients. In many cases, the first nutrient deficiencies to appear are as a result of a lack of micronutrients.

Fortifying Houseplant Soil

There are two main categories of fertilizer that you can use for your houseplants: slow release and fast release types.

Slow release fertilizers are used to fortify soils for longer periods of time, with a continuous supply of nutrients, whereas fast release fertilizers are for immediate uptake by the plant.

You can fortify your houseplant’s growing media by mixing slow release fertilizers into the soil. I do this whenever I repot a plant.

For most of my houseplants, I try to change the soil once a year, mixing in slow-release fertilizer while I’m at it.

Most organic fertilizers are slow release, as they consist of biological materials that take a while to break down. Organic fertilizers often naturally contain plenty of micronutrients, too.

When I’m repotting, and using brand new potting soil, I fortify the media with both synthetic and organic fertilizer.

I consult the label for each package, and apply a little less than half of the recommended amount for each. Together, both fertilizers combine for a near full dose of nutrients.

I like to err on the side of “less is more” when it comes to fertilizer application. You can always add more!

For my more sensitive plants, such as cacti or orchids, I apply very little fertilizer to the growing media, and generally use a liquid product.

Sometimes a houseplant might need its growing media to be replenished with nutrients, but it is not yet time to repot the plant, so it can be difficult to mix in slow-release fertilizer. It is times like this when I sprinkle some capsules or organic granules on the top of the soil.

After several months, you can tell when the synthetic capsules are spent as they appear to be deflated.

As with any fertilizer, never exceed the dose recommended on the label.

Liquid Feeding

Water-soluble fertilizers are formulated to provide immediate nourishment to your plants.

A large majority of water-soluble fertilizers are synthetic. They come in powdered or liquid forms, both of which need to be dissolved or diluted in a container of water before pouring onto the soil. Often, these products are blue in color.

For both the liquid and powdered versions, follow the label for mixing a certain volume into your watering can.

I also buy the powder instead of the liquid. I think it is more environmentally friendly, since I can get the “liquid” water from my tap at home.

Addressing Nutrient Deficiencies

Symptoms of nutrient deficiency can vary greatly depending on the specific plant species as well as the nutrient in question.

Often, when a plant is deficient in one nutrient, it is also deficient in several others, possibly confounding the symptomatology. Which in layman’s terms means it can be hard to know exactly which nutrient deficiency is causing the problem.

General symptoms of most nutrient deficiencies include yellowing of leaves, known as chlorosis, and stunted growth. When these symptoms persist despite adequate watering, sufficient light, and no evidence of pathogens or pests, it may be time to fertilize your plants.

Houseplants may be especially prone to iron chlorosis, which is the yellowing of leaves as a result of iron deficiency.

This is because many popular houseplants come from environments with acidic soils, and if the potting soil you use is too alkaline, it will inhibit the uptake of iron.

Iron deficiency is characterized by yellowing of leaf tissue except for the veins. You can supplement iron-deficient plants with a chelated iron product or blood meal.

If you suspect your houseplant soil is too alkaline, you can add sulfur products to make it more acidic. Or simply repot into a more suitable potting mix.

Make sure you research the species you are growing to check whether or not it requires acidic soil.

Houseplants are also especially prone to magnesium deficiency, as magnesium leaches from the soil with every watering.

To supplement this loss in magnesium, you can add about one teaspoon of Epsom salts into one gallon of water, and use this solution to water your houseplants a couple of times a year.

You can learn more about plant nutrients and signs of deficiency in our guide.

Pretty much any species is susceptible to root rot, though some are more resilient than others.

Coming up, we’ll help you figure out if your plant has root rot and what to do about it.

Here’s what I’ll cover:

Before we figure out how to identify it, let’s talk about what causes root rot.

Causes of Root Rot

There are two main causes of root rot. The first is an abiotic condition when there is so much water in the soil that the roots literally drown.

When the soil is oversaturated, the roots aren’t able to access enough oxygen, and they start to turn soft and mushy. Just like any other creature when it’s deprived of oxygen – the plant starts to die.

In addition, there are many different fungi and water molds (oomycetes) that can cause the problem, but Fusarium spp., Pythium spp., Phytophthora spp., Rhizoctonia spp. are the most common and attack the broadest range of plants.

All of these pathogens thrive in high moisture and can be spread via water, in contaminated soil, on contaminated tools, and by insects, particularly aphids. The pathogens enter the plant via damaged vascular tissue.

The pathogens aren’t airborne, but if you have a humid home or growing area, they can spread through the water droplets in the air.

Symptoms

The symptoms of this disease can vary depending on the species affected. But in general, you’ll see yellowing leaves, brown patches on the foliage, dropping leaves, and stunted growth.

The plant might be wilting even though the soil feels adequately moist.

The best way to tell if the disease is present is to remove the houseplant from its container and inspect the roots.

You’ll generally see brown, black, dark, soggy roots. Some of the tissue might be healthy but there will be distinct evidence of rotting areas.

In the case of large, woodier plants like some palms and Ficus species, the outer layer of the roots – known as the epidermis – might slough off, leaving the pale interior exposed.

You might also notice a bad odor. If you’ve ever sniffed the old water in a vase that has been holding cut flowers, you know the smell.

Prevention

Root rot is almost always preventable. One of the easiest ways to avoid it is to be cautious about how much and how you water.

Avoid overwatering by testing the soil with your finger or a moisture meter before you water.

Don’t rely on a watering schedule, since every species is different and will take up moisture differently depending on the temperature, any breezes in your space, or the relative humidity in your home.

Make sure every container you use has drainage holes. You can place a container with drainage inside a decorative pot, but be sure to empty it out 30 minutes after watering. The same applies if you use any sort of water-catching saucer.

Use a well-draining potting soil suitable for the species that you’re growing, and don’t put a layer of rocks or broken pottery at the base of the pot. This actually makes the problem worse, not better.

When you water, be sure to apply the water to the soil, not on the leaves. Or use the bottom watering technique.

You can learn more about how to water houseplants in our guide.

Always use clean, fresh soil and wipe any tools or containers with a 10 percent bleach solution before pruning or potting up.

When you bring a new specimen home, isolate it for a week or two to make sure it doesn’t have any symptoms of disease to avoid spreading the pathogens to your other plants.

Finally, avoid stressing your plants. A stressed houseplant is more susceptible to pathogens present in the soil. Inappropriate light, drought, and pest problems can all cause stress.

Treatment

The first step in treatment is to remove the plant from the container and get rid of all the soil.

You might need to rinse the roots in a stream of lukewarm water, or it might just brush away if it isn’t oversaturated.

If you happen to catch a whiff of something unpleasant, sort of like the old water in a vase holding a bouquet of flowers, that’s a good indication of root rot.

When you have all the roots exposed, look them over carefully. If you find any that are black, soggy or broken, cut these off with a clean pair of scissors or clippers just a bit above where the damage ends. You want nothing left but clean, healthy roots.

Wipe the old container out with a 10 percent bleach solution.

After you have trimmed off all the rotten tissue and treated the roots, repot the specimen with fresh, clean potting soil. Continue to soak the soil with a fungicide according to the manufacturer’s directions until healthy new growth emerges.

Going forward, use a soil moisture meter and be especially careful not to overwater.

Resistant Species

If you really can’t stop overwatering your houseplants, either get an epiphytic species and mount it on wood or wire, or stick to growing air plants (Tillsandia spp.). It is almost impossible to overwater a mounted specimen!

In addition, there are a number of species that aren’t prone to this condition. These are some good choices:

Ficus

Many Ficus species are resistant to root rot, both from overwatering and from pathogens, but not all. Fiddle-leaf figs, for one, seem to be more prone than others in the genus.

My first experience with this disease was a fiddle-leaf fig that I overwatered for months before I realized what I’d done wrong.

It lost half of its leaves and needed some serious rehab, but it’s still with me and lovelier than ever after all these years.

But creeping figs (F. pumila), for example, won’t flinch at too much water.

Learn more about growing ficus plants in our guide.

Ivy

Ivy (Hedera helix) isn’t the easiest houseplant to grow, which is ironic given how prolific it is outdoors.

But of all the things that might make your ivy unhappy indoors, root rot probably won’t be one of them.

If you’d like to know more about how to grow ivy indoors, check out our guide.

Another good reason for urgent repotting is if the container it’s growing in is much too large for the specimen.

Of course, even for species that tolerate being rootbound, there will come a time when you’ll eventually need to repot. I’ll provide some repotting tips for you at the end of the article.

But first you’ll want to learn what to look for as signs that you do indeed need to repot, so let’s learn more about these 17 houseplants that don’t mind being rootbound:

1. Alocasia

Our first selection is Alocasia, which doesn’t need frequent repotting.

Known for their supersized heart- or arrowhead-shaped leaves and high contrast coloration, alocasias (Alocasia spp.) are dramatic looking houseplants that will command your visual attention.

When it comes to care, alocasias need bright, indirect light and moderate watering.

These striking houseplants don’t mind being slightly rootbound and can keep growing in the same container until roots start emerging from drainage holes.

Once you witness those emerging roots, or the potting medium is drying out too fast, it’s time to repot.

‘Polly’ is a hybrid cultivar that has glossy, dark green leaves with purple undersides and ruffled edges, and contrasting white to light green leaf veins. It reaches two feet tall and wide at maturity.

Ready to introduce one of these into your home?

Alocasia ‘Polly’

You’ll find live Alocasia ‘Polly’ specimens in decorative pots available for purchase from Fast Growing Trees.

Interested in learning more about growing and caring for alocasias? Read our article!

2. Aloe Vera

Next on our list is aloe vera, a succulent which thrives in rootbound conditions and shouldn’t be repotted often.

With long, tapering, fleshy leaves, Aloe vera is a staple in the DIY medicine chest because of the skin-soothing gel that is contained within its foliage.

Aloe vera needs six hours of direct sunlight per day to thrive, and should be watered when the top two to three inches of growing medium are dry.

When it comes to repotting aloe vera, it will only need to be transplanted every few years.

You can let it go somewhat potbound, but it may be time to repot when roots are poking through the drainage holes, or the specimen is top heavy and prone to falling over.

Have you been living without one of these succulents?

Aloe Vera Plant in Decorative Pot

You can purchase live, seven-inch tall aloe vera plants in four-inch decorative pots from Costa Farms via Walmart.

If you’d like to learn more about growing and caring for aloe vera, check out our guide.

3. Amaryllis

Amaryllis doesn’t need to be repotted frequently, it prefers rootbound conditions.

You may think of the flower amaryllis (Hippeastrum spp.) as something to be discarded after it’s done blooming, but it can certainly be kept as a houseplant for the long term. They can actually live for decades!

With showy blooms held on long, thick stems that emerge from large bulbs, amaryllis plants are right up there with poinsettias and Christmas cacti as “must have” living flora for the winter holidays.

Amaryllis thrives with six hours of direct sunlight per day and should be watered when the top few inches of the growing medium are dry.

Take care to use a houseplant watering can with a narrow spout to water only the growing medium, not the bulb.

Amaryllis bulbs should be grown snugly in their pots, and should only be repotted when the bulb becomes too large. Read our article on repotting amaryllis for more guidance.

‘Spartacus’ is a type of amaryllis with eye-catching, white and red blooms.

Looking for one of these to offer as a holiday gift? You’ll find them in kits, such as this one from the Daylily Nursery Store.

Kit With Live Amaryllis ‘Spartacus’

This amaryllis kit comes in a burlap gift bag and includes a ‘Spartacus’ amaryllis bulb, a decorative white ceramic pot, complete instructions, and growing medium.

You’ll find it at the Daylily Nursery Store via Amazon.

Find more tips for growing amaryllis in our complete guide.

4. Chinese Money Plant

This next selection, Chinese money plant, shouldn’t be repotted often. Instead, it should be allowed to grow in the same container until somewhat rootbound.

In the houseplant world, Chinese money plant (Pilea peperomiodes) is instantly recognizable – it has long, thin, arching stems, each of which bear a single, round green leaf, held like baubles on the plant.

These cute green pileas are nontoxic, so they make a good fit for households with kids and pets.

Good care for Chinese money plants includes offering bright, indirect sunlight, and watering when the soil is dry half way down the growing medium.

Related to watermelon pilea aka aluminum plants, Chinese money plants don’t like to be repotted, so it’s better to allow them to become somewhat rootbound before transferring to new containers – approximately every two years.

Whether you’re drawn to these pileas for their perky appearance or their Feng Shui symbolism of wealth, you can bring home one of your own!

Chinese Money Plant

You’ll find a live Chinese money plant in a four-inch nursery pot available for purchase from the California Tropicals Store via Amazon.

5. Christmas Cactus

This next selection, the well-loved Christmas cactus, doesn’t require frequent repottings and grows well when rootbound.

Known for their bright blooms that appear during the dark months of the year Christmas and other holiday cacti (Schlumbergera spp.) make excellent, easy-care houseplants.

These pet- and kid-safe succulents have flattened, segmented stems that will bear flowers if conditions are right!

Provide Christmas cactus with bright, indirect light, and water when the top inch of the growing medium is dry.

As epiphytes, Christmas cacti don’t need a lot of growing medium for their root system and prefer to be slightly potbound. On average, holiday cacti should be repotted approximately every three years.

Want to add one of these to your home to liven up your holiday decor?

Holiday Cactus

You can purchase live, 10-inch tall holiday cacti in decorative Christmas pot covers from the Costa Farms Store via Amazon.

Learn more about growing and caring for Christmas cactus in our complete guide.

6. Epiphyllum

Our next selection, epiphyllum, grows better when rootbound and only repotted infrequently.

Jungle cacti like their relative the Christmas cactus, Epiphyllum houseplants produce large, showy flowers, and have long, flattened, succulent stems.

Also known as orchid cacti, epiphyllums are safe for households with pets and young children.

Indoors, epiphyllums should be grown primarily in bright, indirect light, though a couple of hours of direct sun in the morning will please these succulents too, as long as you habituate them to direct exposure gradually.

Water when the top third of the growing medium is dry.

As epiphytes, epiphyllums only need small pots compared to the massive amounts of foliage they produce, and they don’t mind being rootbound.

Plan on repotting every five to seven years or when the specimen becomes unstable in its pot.

E. hookeri subsp. guatemalense, also known as “curly Sue” or “curly locks” is an epiphyllum with twisting and curling stems.

I’m an avowed epiphyllum fanatic and this is one of my personal favorites.

Curly Sue Epiphyllum Orchid Cactus

Feel the same? You’ll find curly Sue epiphyllums in four-inch grower’s pots, available for purchase from the California Tropicals Store via Amazon.

Read our article to learn more about growing and caring for epiphyllums.

7. Jade Plant

Like many succulents, this next houseplant on our list also prefers to be rootbound rather than undergoing frequent repottings. I’m talking about jade plant.

Jade plant (Crassula ovata) is a classic among succulent houseplants.

With egg-shaped, bright green leaves, an upright growth habit, and stems that turn woody, mature specimens often resemble miniature trees.

Jade plant grows best in direct sun for part of the day, complemented by bright, indirect light, and the soil should be allowed to dry out almost completely between waterings.

Don’t repot your jade plant until it is cracking its container or until its foliage is so heavy that it’s tipping over – approximately every four to five years.

Do your other succulents need a little jade tree to watch over them?

Jade Plant

You can purchase live jade plants in four-inch grower’s pots from Hirt’s Garden Store via Amazon.

Want to learn more about growing jade plants indoors? Read our article!

8. Kalanchoe

Our next selection, kalanchoe, also favors rootbound conditions and shouldn’t be repotted often.

There are many different types of kalanchoes (Kalanchoe spp.) – but one thing these succulents have in common is that they don’t mind being snug in their containers.

Types of kalanchoe include panda plant (K. tomentosa) and mother of millions (K. delagoensis).

But perhaps one of the most well-known is K. blossfeldiana, commonly known as florist’s kalanchoe or flaming Katy, a houseplant popular for its brightly colored flowers and fleshy green foliage.

Grow kalanchoes in bright, indirect light, and water when the soil is dry three to four inches down.

As noted, these succulents don’t mind being rootbound, but look for roots emerging from drainage holes as a sign that it’s time to repot.

‘Calandiva Red’ is a kalanchoe cultivar that has dark green foliage and red, double blooms.

These make great gifts for that special someone – and maybe that special someone is yourself!

‘Calandiva Red’ Kalanchoe

Whether it’s a gift to give or a gift to get, you’ll find live specimens of ‘Calandiva Red’ kalanchoe in four-and-a-half-inch nursery pots, available for purchase from the Succulents Box Store via Amazon.

Need a bit more guidance about how to care for kalanchoes? Read our guide.

9. Lipstick Vine

This next selection, lipstick vine, performs beautifully when allowed to become rootbound rather than repotting it frequently.

Nontoxic and related to African violets, lipstick vines (Aeschynanthus spp.) are epiphytes that have elliptical, green or variegated leaves, and reddish flowers that look like little tubes of lipstick.

Lipstick vines grow best in bright, indirect light. Allow the top few inches of soil to dry between waterings.

These houseplants don’t require frequent repotting, usually every two to three years is sufficient. In fact, they actually produce more flowers when somewhat potbound.

Black pagoda plant (A. longicaulis) is a type of lipstick vine with gorgeously patterned foliage and orangish-red flowers.

Do you have just the perfect spot for a hanging basket with lipstick vines trailing down?

Black Pagoda Lipstick Plant

You’ll find live black pagoda lipstick vines in six-inch nursery pots available for purchase from the Plant Farm via Walmart.

Want to learn more about growing this plant? Read our guide to caring for lipstick vine here.

10. Hoya

Speaking of flowers, keep this next selection rootbound rather than repotting it for a more floriferous hoya.

When picking a houseplant you often have to choose between either eye-catching foliage or showstopping blooms – but hoyas (Hoya spp.) give you both.

Safe for households with pets and small children, there are many, many different types of hoyas, and not all have the same light and water preferences.

But a good rule of thumb when you don’t know what kind you have is to offer bright, indirect light and to let the growing medium dry out completely between waterings.

Many Hoya species are epiphytes so they have small root systems, and they produce blooms more generously when rootbound. These are often grown in smallish pots compared to the large masses of foliage they produce, and only need to be repotted infrequently.

H. latifolia ‘Variegata’ (formerly known as H. macrophylla ‘Variegata’) is a beautiful hoya with large, thick, spear-shaped leaves, prominent veins, and outer variegation – that’s to say variegation on the margins of its leaves.

Need one of these to start off your hoya collection?

Hoya Latifolia ‘Variegata’

You can purchase live H. latifolia ‘Variegata’ specimens in four-inch nursery pots from the Green Escape via Amazon.

You can learn more about growing and caring for hoyas in our article.

11. Norfolk Island Pine

Our next selection, Norfolk Island pine, can be allowed to grow in rootbound conditions rather than repotting it to keep it from outgrowing our homes.

There aren’t many conifer trees that can grow happily indoors as houseplants, but Norfolk Island pines (Araucaria heterophylla) take to the indoor environment like superstars.

With green needles and softly drooping branches, these pyramid-shaped trees can serve as stand-in Christmas trees, or create a stately presence in a large space.

These nontoxic trees will thrive with a few hours of direct sunlight, supplemented with bright, indirect light. Water when the top inch of the growing medium is dry.

Repotting your Norfolk Island pine may be a chore you should put off – by repotting less often, it’s possible to keep this tree – which outdoors, can grow to 200 feet tall! – at a manageable size.

These conifers make gorgeous living Christmas trees that you can decorate – with lightweight baubles only, please! – year after year.

Ready to bring one of these home for some holiday cheer?

Norfolk Island Pine Tree

Live Norfolk Island pine trees in grower’s pots are available for purchase in an assortment of sizes from Fast Growing Trees.

Read our complete guide to growing and caring for Norfolk Island pines for more tips.

12. Peperomia

Our next selection, Peperomia, is a genus with many indoor-friendly species that grow well when rootbound, and don’t need frequent repotting.

Peperomia houseplants come in many shapes and sizes, but most of them are known for their attractive, fleshy foliage.

Peperomias thrive in bright, indirect light and need their growing medium to dry out slightly between waterings – the top inch of soil should be allowed to dry.

With small, fine roots, these nontoxic houseplants don’t require frequent repotting and it’s fine to let them get a little rootbound.

Once the potting medium starts to dry out too often, or you check the roots and they are filling up the pot, that’s a good sign that it’s time to repot.

Watermelon peperomia (P. argyreia) is a species of peperomia whose leaves are patterned with stripes reminiscent of those on a watermelon rind.

Do you have a home office or tabletop in need of some peperomia joy?

Watermelon Peperomia

Purchase live watermelon peperomias in four-inch nursery pots from the California Tropicals Store via Walmart.

Learn more about growing peperomia in our guide.

13. Rex Begonia

The next houseplant on our list, rex begonia, should be allowed to become rootbound to prevent transplant shock from repotting.

With brightly colored foliage, hypnotizing patterns, beguiling leaf shapes, and somewhat fussy care requirements, rex begonias (Begonia x rex-cultorum) are often thought of as divas in the houseplant world.

These houseplants need very bright, indirect light and consistently moist soil, accompanied by excellent drainage.

Rex begonias don’t care for being repotted, so they should be allowed to grow in the same container until their roots fill their pot completely.

You can pull a plant out of its container to check for this – if any loose soil remains in the pot when you lift out the plant, it’s not time to repot yet.

Harmony’s ‘Love Potion’ is a cultivar that has green and purple leaves with splatters of white dots.

Ready to bring one of these fascinating rex begonias home?

Harmony’s ‘Love Potion’ Rex Begonia

You’ll find live Harmony’s ‘Love Potion’ rex begonias in six-inch grower’s pots, available for purchase from Florida House Plants via Walmart.

Learn more about growing and caring for rex begonias in our article.

14. Snake Plant

Our next selection, snake plant, benefits from somewhat negligent care, which includes allowing it to become rootbound rather than repotting frequently.

If you want a live houseplant that will put up with being treated as part of the decor, snake plant (Dracaena spp.) makes a great option.

With their long, leathery leaves, snake plants can get by with low light and very little water.

However, growth will be better if they are provided with bright, indirect light. The growing medium should be allowed to dry out almost completely between waterings.

Snake plants make excellent starter houseplants, and when it comes to repotting, they will happily keep growing in the same container until the overgrown roots cause it to crack.

You will need to refresh the growing medium every five years if you don’t repot sooner than that.

What’s better than one snake plant? A grouping of more than one!

Snake Plants

Purchase a four-pack of eight-inch tall, live snake plants in 4-inch nursery pots available from Costa Farms via Amazon.

Read our complete guide to growing snake plants for more tips!

15. Spider Plant

This next selection, spider plant, is a resilient, adaptable option that remains happy and healthy when rootbound and infrequently repotted.

Spider plants (Chlorophytum comosum) are perhaps one of the most widely kept houseplants and are easy to recognize – they look like a pot of pale green or green and white grass.

Mature specimens often have spiderettes extending from long thin stems, and they may be the quintessential hanging basket houseplants.

There’s a reason for their popularity – these nontoxic houseplants are supremely easy to care for.

Spider plants can be grown in bright, indirect or medium light and should be allowed to dry out somewhat between waterings. They are fairly adaptable to different watering routines, as long as you don’t overwater.

Growing thick white roots that gradually fill up their pots, there’s no need to repot spider plants until they are bursting out of their containers or until they start drying out too frequently.

In fact, being rootbound will encourage spider plants to produce spiderettes.

‘Ocean’ is a cultivated variety of spider plant that is more compact than the species plant, with leaves reaching eight to 12 inches long at maturity.

Don’t leave this trusty standby of the houseplant world off your wish list – there’s a reason they’re so popular!

‘Ocean’ Spider Plant

You can find live ‘Ocean’ spider plants in six-inch grower’s pots, available for purchase from the California Tropicals Store via Amazon.

Find complete guidance for growing spider plants in our article.

16. Tree Philodendron

This next option on our list, tree philodendron, is best kept somewhat rootbound to keep it from getting too big.

With large, green, lobed leaves, tree philodendron (Thaumatophyllum bipinnatifidum) is a giant of the jungles that will provide a tropical vibe when you bring one into your home.

Tree philodendrons thrive in low light to bright, indirect light, and have moderate water needs.

These houseplants thrive with potbound roots, but you’ll need to refresh the potting soil periodically and the roots to keep it in check.

This strategy can prevent the houseplant from outgrowing your home! Learn more about how to repot tree philodendrons in our guide.

Is tree philodendron the missing element you need to complete your indoor jungle?

Tree Philodendron

You can purchase three foot tall and one and a half foot wide, live tree philodendrons in fiber concrete decorative pots from Terrain.

Learn more about how to grow tree philodendrons here.

17. Weeping Fig

Our final selection, weeping fig, is a sensitive option that would rather be rootbound than repotted.

Often appearing with braided trunks or variegated foliage, weeping fig (Ficus benjamina) is another classic houseplant.

Thriving with bright, indirect sun and moderate watering, weeping figs don’t like changes – and repotting definitely counts as a change!

Weeping figs can be allowed to become rootbound, these shouldn’t be repotted until there are roots coming out of their drainage holes, or circling the surface of the soil.

With their lofty heights and lush foliage, these trees help brighten up corners and soften edges in our homes. Sound like the perfect decorating fix?

Live Braided Weeping Fig Tree

Purchase a two- to three-foot or a three- to four-foot, live braided weeping fig tree, with your choice of pot from Fast Growing Trees.

Don’t cry! There’s help for growing and caring for weeping figs right here.

Well-Homed, Happy Houseplants

Once you determine that your houseplant finally needs to be repotted because it is far too rootbound – its roots are emerging from the surface of the soil or the drainage holes, there’s no soil left in the pot, or it’s drying out much too quickly between waterings – here are a few tips to follow:

Water the rootbound specimen first, pot up only one size, and while transplanting, be sure to untangle the outer layer of roots.

Gently tease them away from the root ball – you can do this by rubbing the palm of your hand against the ball of roots. If they are too tightly tangled and you can’t loosen them with your hand, you can rub the tines of a fork along the root ball instead.

Untangling its mass of roots will help them spread into their new potting medium more easily, otherwise they may just remain in a tangled ball and won’t get the benefits of new soil and more room.

Now that you know which houseplants will be happy living rootbound in their plastic, ceramic, or terra cotta “homes” for long stretches of time, which ones will you pick to add to your own home? Let us know in the comments section below!

Are you wondering if any of your other favorite houseplants will be happy to live a rootbound life too? If so, feel free to pose your questions in the comments section as well.

Want to keep expanding your houseplant knowledge? We have more guides for you right here:

Advice on hydrating your houseplants can often be vague.

In this guide, we’ll help you understand how, when, and what type of liquid to use to keep your houseplants healthy.

Here’s what we’ll discuss:

I find that in general most beginners to the houseplant world tend to overwater their plants. That was certainly the case for me, and it took me years to break the overwatering habit.

As we go into this, try to consider your current watering habits.

Do you irrigate on a specific schedule? Do you regularly splash liquid on the leaves of your plant? Do you check the soil for moisture regularly?

We all make mistakes, that’s part of life. Let’s discuss how to do it right.

How Often?

If you’re someone who waters on a schedule, stop immediately. Anytime someone recommends that you irrigate a plant according to the calendar, they’re steering you in the wrong direction.

There are so many elements that impact how quickly the soil dries out. It can vary from home to home and even from room to room.

A plant situated in your kitchen might need watering every two weeks, while the exact same specimen set in your living room may need irrigation once a week.

Of course, watering needs vary from species to species. A cactus needs far less than a pilea, for example.

The amount of light the plant receives, if there is any sort of air circulation around the plant from a heat or AC vent, the relative humidity in the air, how compacted the soil is, how much drainage the container has, and what kind of soil you use, are some of the factors that can impact how quickly the soil dries out.

How often you irrigate will depend entirely on your specific plant, and it might change from season to season.

If you’re feeling lost, don’t worry. It’s easy to determine when to water by checking the soil.

This can be done with your finger or by using a soil moisture meter. Once you get to know your plant, you might even be able to tell just by the weight of the pot when you lift it up.

You can also tell if the plant starts to wilt and the soil feels dry. Plants can wilt for other reasons, so don’t immediately assume it’s a drought situation.

The best time of day to water is in the morning rather than the evening because it gives the leaves time to dry and gives you time to empty the drainage saucer or cachepot.

How Much?

As with determining how often to hydrate your plants, working out how much to apply is incredibly subjective.

Again, if someone tells you to add a certain amount, like a cup of water each time, they are steering you wrong.

The amount of water you’ll need to provide depends on the needs of the species you are growing, your particular environment, and the water-retentive qualities of the potting medium.

In the same way as determining when to irrigate, you will need to rely on the soil moisture level to tell you how much to add.

This is where a soil moisture meter comes in handy. It will tell you exactly how damp the potting soil is and then you can compare that to the recommended moisture level for the species you’re growing.

If you don’t have a moisture meter, you can stick your finger in the soil.

“Moist” would be a texture similar to a well wrung-out sponge. Dry would feel like a dry sponge. Wet would feel like a sponge that hasn’t been wrung out yet.

You can also ball the soil up in your hand. If it falls apart, it’s dry. If it stays together but no water squeezes out, it’s moist. If moisture squeezes out, it’s wet.

What Type?

For the majority of plants, good old municipal tap water will do just fine.

If you’re worried, go ahead and leave the liquid in a container without a lid for 24 hours to let some of the chemicals evaporate.

If you have soft water, don’t use it on your plants. Soft water has salts that can rapidly build up in the soil and kill your specimen.

Some species are extremely sensitive to water quality, so for these plants, use rain, filtered, or distilled water.

The water should always be near room temperature. Cold or hot liquid can harm your plant.

How to Water

Now for the easy part, right?

Take your watering can and fill it up. Pour the water out slowly onto the surface of the potting medium.

When you water, apply the moisture to the soil, not like rain on the foliage. Wetting the foliage can often lead to problems with fungal diseases.

Add enough water so that it starts to run out of the drainage holes at the bottom of the pot.

What’s that you say? Your pot doesn’t have drainage holes? You’re playing with fire, my friend.

Unless you’re growing a species that doesn’t mind wet feet – and very few do – a pot without drainage is going to result in standing water around the roots and will inevitably lead to root rot.

You want to make sure the soil is saturated all the way through. If you just add a little bit on the surface, it won’t reach the roots and will encourage shallow root growth, which isn’t ideal for most plants.

Wait 30 minutes after you irrigate, and then empty the outer pot or catchment saucer.

You can also use a process known as bottom watering.

This involves placing the pot in a container, bathtub, or sink with water in it and allowing the medium to wick up the moisture it needs. We have a guide that will walk you through the process.

Signs You’re Doing it Wrong

Plants usually aren’t shy about telling you the moisture situation is wrong.

Too much typically results in yellowing leaves, brown patches on the foliage, wilting, and dropping leaves.

Under the soil, the roots turn dark or black and mushy. If you take the plant out of the container, you might get a whiff of something unpleasant.

That’s the build-up of bacteria or fungi and it smells a lot like a vase that has been holding cut flowers for a week.

Too little water results in wilting and dry foliage. If you touch the soil, it will feel extremely dry. Sometimes, this can happen if the medium has become hydrophobic as a result of allowing the soil to dry out too much and too often.

Hydrophobic soil has a waxy layer on top, so when you water, the moisture runs off and down the sides of the container rather than soaking into the medium. Either replace this medium or use the bottom watering method instead.

If your container doesn’t have drainage holes, you need to repot as quickly as possible.

Without adequate drainage, there’s nowhere for the water to escape and even if you don’t add too much, it can still stagnate in the bottom of the pot. This leads to a buildup of bacteria and fungi.

Use a container with drainage and set it inside a decorative pot instead.

In addition, please don’t put rocks or other material at the base of the pot to improve drainage. If I could get rid of one gardening myth, I think this would be it.

Adding this drainage material won’t work and it actually increases the risk of root rot. That’s because there’s a process called capillary action that causes water to pool when it encounters a different texture.

So, the water will collect at the transition between the soil and the rocks or drainage material, sitting closer to the roots, before it eventually drains down into the rocks.

1. African Violet

African violets (Streptocarpus subg. Streptocarpella sect. Saintpaulia) are one of the few species that bloom indoors with traditional-looking flowers rather than funky inflorescences or itty-bitty blossoms.

The flowers are often violet, but blue, red, white, fuchsia, pink, salmon, and multicolored types are available as well.

They grow perfectly fine in low light, but if you want them to bloom, they need bright, indirect light for a few months out of the year. Otherwise, you’ll have some pretty foliage but not much else.

Since they stay so small, African violets work really well on a desk or shelf under a grow lamp placed about eight inches away.

Optimara African Violets

Pick up a four-pack of Optimara Series plants from Optiflora African violets via Amazon.

Learn more about growing African violets in our guide.

2. Amaryllis

Amaryllis (Hippeastrum spp.) are some of the most instantly recognizable indoor flowering plants and they brighten up our homes during the holidays with their red, purple, pink, salmon, white, green, or cream blooms.

To force the plants to bloom indoors, they need direct sunlight for several hours per day – at least six is ideal.

But once they burst forth, feel free to move the plants into low light. The flowers won’t fade any more quickly than usual.

I’m partial to the picotee coloration like you’ll find on this white and red variety from Dutch Grown.

Picotee Amaryllis

You can bring them home in packs of one, five, ten, or 20 bulbs.

Or go for something a bit more traditional with ‘Red Lion’ – sporting huge blossoms in bold red.

‘Red Lion’ Amaryllis

It’s also available at Dutch Grown in the same quantities.

And have a read of our guide to growing Amaryllis for more details.

3. Anthurium

Anthurium plants are easygoing and will grow in low light, but in these conditions the inflorescences might be lacking in color, or the plant may not bloom at all.

I have one in a woefully dark spot, and it does bloom, but it only produces a few flowers, and they’re muted in color. Instead of red, they’re mostly green with a faint red hue.

I don’t complain because I’m out of spots with perfect light, so it either does its best with what I can give it, or I’ll have to send it to the big garden in the sky.

But if you want yours to put on a big show, give it bright, indirect light, or supplement with grow lights, at least for a few months out of the year. There are lots of color choices out there.

White Anthurium

If you want something clean and contemporary, this mini white option from Hirt’s Gardens, available at Walmart, would be perfect. It comes in a three-inch pot.

‘Sweet Dream Pink’

Or grab a cheerful pink option at Fast Growing Trees. They carry ‘Sweet Dream Pink’ in a decorative white pot perfect for gifting.

Red Anthurium

Or if you prefer the traditional red, it is available in four-inch containers at Nature Hills Nursery.

You can learn more about how to grow anthuriums in our guide.

4. Begonia

Honestly, I don’t even care if my begonias (Begonia spp.) blossom. Some of them have such exciting leaves that the flowers are merely supporting players.

I keep my polka dot begonia in pretty dismal light. I just don’t have enough bright spots, and it’s more tolerant of low light than many of my other houseplants.

When you want to encourage blooms, move the plant into morning sun for a few months, and you’ll be treated to a flowering performance.

There are even a few species and hybrids that will bloom in low light.

They’re such accommodating plants! Not all begonia species bloom, by the way, so check the one you’re considering to be sure it’s a flowering type.

For example, the Dragon Wing® hybrid will bloom in pretty much any spot you can find in your home.

Dragon Wing Begonia

The glossy green leaves look dramatic against the deep red blossoms. You can purchase 25 seeds or a live four-plant bundle at Burpee.

Learn more about how to grow begonias as houseplants in our guide.

5. Bromeliad

The Bromeliaceae family encompasses a wide range of species, from pineapples (Ananas comosus) to air plants (Tillsandia spp.) Here, we’re talking about the many species with long, straplike leaves and colorful bracts.

The flowers on bromeliads are insignificant, but the spikes that hold them which are leaf-like structures called bracts, are pretty impressive. Most of them won’t bloom indoors, and especially not when they’re growing in low light.

So what is this plant doing on this list? The colorful bracts give you flower vibes even in dark exposure.

The bracts come in red, orange, yellow, green, cream, white, burgundy, or purple. Pretty much all colors except blue. They add color and interest that won’t leave you missing the blossoms.

If you do want to bring on the blooms, it’s possible, regardless of the light you have them in. The secret is to place the plant in a large, clear plastic bag and put an apple in there with it. Seal it shut and leave it like that for three days.

After three days, toss out that apple (or eat it) and take off the plastic. Between six weeks and three months later, depending on the species, the plant will bloom.

Just know that after the flower spike – which can last for months – fades, the plant will die. Don’t worry, you can propagate it by the pups it sends out.

Tillsandia ‘Antonio’

Grab a pink Tillsandia ‘Antonio’ hybrid or an orange Vriesea ‘Intenso Orange’ hybrid in a five-inch decorative pot at Fast Growing Trees.

You can learn more about bromeliads and how to grow them in our guide.

6. Calathea

Depending on the species, prayer plants, aka calathea (Goeppertia spp.), bloom in pink, yellow, purple, or white. They rarely bloom indoors, though.

1. African Violet

The African violet, Streptocarpus subg. Streptocarpella sect. Saintpaulia, is a compact flower with a whorl of fuzzy foliage that is round or heart shaped, green on top, and often purplish on the underside.

Blossoms in shades of blue, orange, pink, purple, red, or yellow, sometimes bicolored or fringed, perch atop the leaves and are the star attraction.

African Violets

Plants may achieve mature dimensions of six to 24 inches tall and wide, prefer rich, loamy soil, and have moderate water needs.

A temperature range of 65 to 80°F, in location with bright, indirect light, and approximately 80 percent humidity is ideal.

A four-pack of African violets from the Optimara series in four-inch pots is available from Optiflora via Amazon.

Please see our guide to growing African violets for more details.

2. Aloe Vera

Aloe vera, aka A. barbadensis, is an evergreen tropical succulent with a very short stem. It stores water in fleshy, pointed, serrated foliage.

Young leaves are green and flecked with white. Indoor plants are unlikely to flower, but those outdoors produce a stalk approximately three feet tall and greenish-yellow blossoms.

Aloe leaves have gel-like centers that contain anti-inflammatory properties. This gel has been long used in herbal medicine to treat burns and stings. Please note that the leaves also contain a layer of latex that may cause an allergic reaction in some people.

Aloe Vera

When grown indoors, expect mature heights of one to three feet with a spread of two to three feet. Plants prefer loose, sandy soil and have low water needs.

Set in a bright spot, the ideal temperature for cultivation is 55 to 85°F. Aloe does not require humidity, so an average indoor humidity between 30 and 50 percent is suitable.

You can find a 10- to 14-inch tall aloe vera plant in a grower’s pot available from Terrain.

Our guide to growing aloe has full cultivation details. 

3. Anthurium

Anthurium, Anthurium spp., is a tropical perennial epiphyte that clings to other flora for support in its native setting.

Some species produce leaf variations called “spathes” that are brightly colored and punctuated by a central “spadix” or fleshy stalk with many tiny blossoms.

Spathe colors may be variegated and include shades of gold, green, purple, red, yellow, and white.

Note that this species is toxic to humans and animals so be cautious about placement if you have curious kids and pets.

Anthurium ‘Sweet Dream Pink’

Expect a mature height of 12 to 24 inches with a spread of five to 12 inches. Anthuriums prefer a loose, airy potting medium like you would use for a cactus or an orchid. Water needs are moderate.

Provide a setting with bright light and a temperature range of 78 to 90°F during the day and 70 to 75°F at night. A humid environment of 50 percent or higher is best.

Ever-blooming Anthurium ‘Sweet Dream Pink,’ grows to a height of 14 to 18 inches and a width of five inches and is available from FastGrowingTrees.com.

See our guide to growing anthurium for more information.

4. Areca Palm

Tropical areca palm, Dypsis​ ​lutescens​, aka bamboo palm, makes a bold statement in home decor with its multiple stems and narrow, feathery, green foliage fronds.

Expect mature dimensions of five to eight feet tall and three feet wide. Areca palms prefer organically rich soil and have moderate water needs.

Areca Palm

The best setting has bright, indirect light, daytime temperatures in the 75 to 85°F range, nights above 65°F, and humidity of at least 45 percent.

Areca palms are available from FastGrowing Trees.com.

Our guide to growing areca palm has more details.

5. Christmas Cactus

The Christmas cactus, aka holiday cactus, Schlumbergera spp., is a flowering tropical succulent.

In its native rainforest home, it grows without soil as an epiphyte, relying on tree bark and other natural elements for support.

The foliage is unique for its segmented cladodes. Multi-petaled, tubular flowers appear at the arching terminal ends in shades of orange, pink, purple, red, salmon, white, and yellow.

Christmas Cactus

Mature dimensions are one foot tall and two feet wide. Christmas cacti prefer organically rich soil and have low to moderate moisture needs.

Ideal bright-light growing environments have daytime temperatures around 70°F and nights in the 60 to 65°F range. High indoor humidity of over 50 percent is best for these plants.

Christmas cacti are available from Wayfair.

See our Christmas cactus growing guide for cultivation details.

6. Coffee Plant

The coffee plant, Coffea arabica, features glossy, dark green foliage and produces red fruits that cluster along its woody stems, each containing one to two coffee seeds or “beans.”

Indoor cultivation is less likely to result in flowering and fruiting than plants growing outdoors.

Coffee Plant

Mature dimensions may be six feet tall and three feet wide. Indoor plants are usually smaller and easy to prune. Coffee plants prefer loamy, organically-rich soil and have moderate water needs.

They prefer abundant bright light, cool temperatures in the 64 to 72°F range and high humidity over 50 percent.

Coffee plants are available from FastGrowingTrees.com.

See our coffee plant growing guide for more information.

7. Croton

Tropical croton, Codiaeum variegatum, boasts showy variegated foliage in bold and bright green, orange, red, and yellow hues.

There may be inflorescences of tiny, white star-like blooms. Note that crotons are toxic to people and pets.

Mature heights are two to six feet tall and wide. Crotons prefer organically-rich soil and have moderate water requirements.

Ideal indoor conditions are 60 to 85°F, bright, indirect light, and humidity over 50 percent.

C. variegatum ‘Petra’ offers spectacular variegation and mature dimensions of seven to ten feet tall and four to six feet wide.

‘Petra’ Croton

‘Petra’ is available from FastGrowingTrees.com.

Our croton growing guide provides cultivation details.

8. Donkey’s Tail

Donkey or burro’s tail, Sedum morganianum, is an evergreen succulent with trailing strands of fleshy blue-green leaves with a whitish cast.

Blooming indoors is unusual; when it occurs, clusters of tiny pink or red star-like blossoms appear at the terminal ends of the foliage.

Donkey’s Tail

Donkey’s tails can grow to four feet long with a one-and-half-foot spread. They prefer well-draining cactus and succulent potting medium and have low to moderate water needs.

Keeping pots outdoors in a sunny spot during the warm summer months and in a location between 50 and 69°F in the winter may promote blooming.

Donkey’s tail is available from the CTS Air Plant Store via Amazon.

Our donkey’s tail growing guide has more information.

9. Dwarf Clementine

Tropical dwarf citrus trees make excellent houseplants with glossy green leaves, fragrant blooms, and delicious fruit.

Clementine, Citrus x clementina, is a hybrid created by crossing a mandarin orange with a sweet orange. It has fragrant white blossoms.

‘EasyPeel’ is a dwarf clementine with a mature height of approximately eight feet and a spread of four to six feet.

Indoor plants are usually smaller and are easy to prune to keep at a compact size. The ideal soil is organically rich and sandy.

‘EasyPeel’ Dwarf Clementine

To grow clementines, provide bright light and maintain a temperature between 65 and 70°F during the day and 55 to 60°F at night. Keep the humidity above 50 percent.

‘EasyPeel’ dwarf clementine trees are available from FastGrowingTrees.com.

See our guide to growing dwarf citrus trees for more information.

10. Dwarf Meyer Lemon

Another dwarf citrus tree you may like is the Meyer lemon, Citrus x limon ‘Meyer,’ with its glossy green leaves and scented white flowers.

Believed by many in culinary circles to be one of the most flavorful lemon varieties, it is actually a hybrid cross between a citron and a mandarin or pomelo.

Mature heights are six to 10 feet tall with a spread of four to five feet, but indoor plants tend to be smaller and are easy to prune. Cultivate in sandy loam. Moisture needs are low.

Dwarf Meyer Lemon

A bright, sunny daytime placement with average household temperatures, nights around 65°F, and humidity above 50 percent will keep the plant happy.

Dwarf Meyer lemon trees are available from PlantingTree.com.

11. Elephant’s Ears

Elephant’s ears, Alocasia spp., have bright green leaves accented by prominent white veins.

They are long, pointed, and resemble the ears of the majestic Asian pachyderms of their native lands. Note that these plants are toxic to people and pets.

Species vary, but generally, indoor plants grow between one and six feet tall and one to four feet wide. Elephant ears grow best in a soilless potting medium with moderate moisture.

They require temperatures of 60°F or higher and humidity of at least 50 percent.

Alocasia ‘Black Velvet’ is an exemplary elephant ears cultivar that features velvety leaves in a green-black hue. Mature dimensions are one to two feet tall and wide.

Black Velvet Alocasia

While they thrive in bright light, make sure that you avoid direct sun placements as this can burn the foliage.

Alocasia ‘Black Velvet’ is available from FastGrowingTrees.com.

See our guide to growing alocasia for cultivation details.

12. Flaming Katy Kalanchoe

Flaming Katy kalanchoe, Kalanchoe blossfeldiana, aka Christmas kalanchoe, is a succulent species with fleshy, waxy, scalloped leaves and tiny, multi-petaled flowers in vivid shades of orange, pink, purple, red, yellow, and white.

Please note this plant is toxic to people and pets.

Mature dimensions are six to 18 inches tall and wide. Cultivate it in cactus and succulent potting medium with low moisture.

Flaming Katy Kalanchoe

The ideal temperature range is 60 to 75°F, with average humidity, in a bright, sunny location. Flaming Katy may be prone to leaf spot diseases if it’s grown in overly humid conditions.

Flaming Katy kalanchoe is available from Walmart.

Learn more about growing flaming Katy in our guide.

13. Haworthia

Haworthia, Haworthia spp., is a fleshy, stemless succulent with pointed, speckled foliage resembling an aloe.

While blooming is not guaranteed when it’s cultivated indoors, haworthia may produce a raceme or flower stalk adorned with tiny, star-like white flowers.

The mature height ranges from three to 20 inches, depending on the species. Widths measure one and a half to 12 inches.

Haworthia

Plants thrive in succulent and cactus potting soil and have low water needs.

Provide a brightly-lit environment with temperatures in the 75 to 90°F range and 30 to 50 percent humidity.

Haworthias are available from Hirt’s Gardens via Amazon.

Our guide to growing haworthia has more information.

14. Lucky Bamboo

Lucky bamboo, Dracaena sanderiana, features green bamboo-like stems with lance-shaped leaves.

Indoor cultivation is less likely to produce the clusters of tiny, white, tubular blossoms, but they may appear. Note that this species is toxic.

Lucky Bamboo

Expect mature dimensions of one to three feet tall and one to two feet wide. Cultivate in water or cactus and succulent potting mix. Plants have moderate water needs.

Lucky bamboo likes a bright placement and can withstand temperatures ranging from 50°F to the high 90s. The average home temperature and humidity are suitable.

Lucky bamboo is available from Wayfair.

Our guide to growing lucky bamboo has more information.

15. Moth Orchid

The moth orchid, Phalaenopsis spp., is a tropical epiphyte that clings to bark or rocks in the rainforest. It’s one of the easier orchids to grow.

Wax-like brown, orange, pink, yellow, white, or bicolored flowers cluster along gracefully arching racemes protruding from leathery green basal foliage.

Mature dimensions are up to three feet tall and a foot wide. These plants prefer a loose bark orchid potting medium and moderate water.

Moth Orchid

A bright spot with an indoor temperature of approximately 80°F and nights dropping to about 65°F is ideal. The humidity should be in the 40 to 70 percent range.

You can find five-inch moth orchids in purple, white, or dyed blue available at FastGrowingTrees.com.

Check out our guide to growing moth orchids for more information.

16. Ponytail Palm

The ponytail palm, Beaucarnea recurvata, aka elephant’s foot, is not a true palm but a relative of agave and asparagus.

It has recurved, fountain-like foliage and a unique water-storing caudex – an enlargement at the base of the trunk that resembles a pachyderm foot.

Outdoors, mature specimens produce clusters of pink or white flowers above the foliage, but this is unlikely indoors.

Ponytail Palm

Mature dimensions are four to eight feet tall with a spread of three to five feet.

Indoors, they should top out at four feet tall, on average. Ponytail palms prefer gritty soil and have low to moderate water needs.

A bright location with a temperature of about 70⁰F and low humidity in the 30 to 50 percent range of the average healthy home are best.

Ponytail palms are available from FastGrowingTrees.com.

Read our guide to growing ponytail palms to learn more.

17. Rex Begonia

Tropical rex begonia, Begonia x rex-cultorum, is prized for its artistically variegated foliage with bumps, ridges, ruffles, a silvery shimmer, and colors ranging from pink and red to maroon and purple, as well as lavender and lime green.

Expect mature dimensions of six to 18 inches tall and wide. Rex begonias prefer a loose, peat-based potting medium and have moderate water requirements.

Harmony’s ‘Red Robin’

The ideal temperature is 70°F during the day and 60°F at night with 50 percent or more humidity. Provide bright, indirect light. Note that this species is toxic to pets and people.

B. x rex-cultorum Harmony’s ‘Red Robin’ features bright and dark red leaves and is available from the BubbleBlooms Store via Walmart.

Learn more about growing rex begonia in our guide.

18. Shamrock

Shamrocks, Oxalis spp., have green, purple, or variegated heart-like foliage and pink, red, white, or yellow flowers.

Botanically they are not true shamrocks (Trifolium spp.) but bear a likeness to the three-lobed leaves.

Mature heights range from six to 18 inches tall with a spread of 12 to 24 inches. Shamrocks do best in organically rich, moisture-retentive soil and have a moderate need for water.

Shamrock Plants

Sunny spots with daytime temperatures of 70 to 75°F and 50 to 60°F at night are best. Heat stress and premature dormancy may occur at temperatures above 80°F. The ideal humidity is above 50 percent.

A combination package of purple Oxalis triangularis and green O. regnellii is available from the Easy to Grow Store via Amazon.

See our shamrock growing guide for details.

19. Sweetheart Hoya

Succulent sweetheart hoya, Hoya kerrii, is an epiphyte that clings to other plants in its native tropical habitat.

Noteworthy for its thick green heart-shaped leaves, this vining species will likely produce wax-like, cream-colored flowers indoors.

Mature dimensions may reach 10 feet long and one to two feet wide. An airy orchid potting medium or a very coarse, loose cactus and succulent soil, and low to moderate water suit this species.

Sweetheart Hoya

The ideal growing environment has temperatures in the range of 65 to 80°F and never lower than 60°F. The humidity should be in the 25 to 49 percent range.

Sweetheart hoyas are available from the CTS Air Plant Store via Amazon.

See our sweetheart hoya growing guide for more information.

20. Venus Flytrap

The carnivorous Venus flytrap, Dionaea muscipula, supplements its diet with passing insects that trigger the hairs in its hinged, jaw-like foliage.

It may reward you with flower stalks bearing clusters of tiny white blossoms.

Mature heights are six to 12 inches with a spread of six to eight inches. Plants do best with acidic, nutrient-poor soil and consistent moisture.

Venus Flytrap

Venus flytraps prefer bright light and temperatures ranging from 70° to 95°F during the growing season and tolerate a dip as low as 40°F during winter dormancy.

The ideal humidity is approximately 50 percent.

Venus Flytraps are available from Joels Carnivorous Plants via Amazon.

Learn more about Venus flytraps in our growing guide.

21. Weeping Fig

The weeping fig, Ficus benjamina, aka ficus tree, has multiple intertwining trunks and glossy green or variegated foliage. The branches gradually arch with maturity for a cascading presentation.

It may reach up to 14 feet tall with a spread of four feet; however, pruning is an option to keep it more compact. Cultivate in standard potting soil and provide moderate water.

Weeping Fig

The temperature should be in the 75 to 85°F range during the day and 60 to 75°F at night, with humidity between 50 and 75 percent.

Braided weeping fig trees are available from FastGrowingTrees.com.

See our guide to growing weeping figs for more information.

Bright-Light Plant Pals

With 21 bright-light houseplants to choose from, all that’s left to do now is make room near your sunniest windows or under grow lights and start cultivating your favorites.

Caring for houseplants is therapeutic and precisely what’s needed after a long, hard day. Kick off your shoes, turn on some music, and enjoy time with your plant pals.

What bright-light houseplants are your favorites? Tell us why in the comments section below.

If you enjoyed reading about bright-light houseplants, we recommend the following guides next:

I handed them out, along with some of my sourdough starter, during the early days of the COVID-19 pandemic to friends and neighbors who had caught the houseplant and bread making bugs.

All that is a long way of saying that, at least with some species, propagation via stem and leaf cuttings is reliable, simple, and easy-as-pie. Much easier than mastering a sourdough boule.

While we can’t help you perfect your bread baking in this guide, we can help you master the art of propagating houseplants with stem and leaf cuttings.

To help make that happen, we’re going to talk about the following:

The process for either propagation method is fairly similar. It’s mostly a difference in what parts of the plant you snip away from the parent.

Let’s start by looking at some of the species that can be propagated this way.

Species to Propagate via Cuttings

All plants have something called a meristem. It’s the part of the plant that contains cells that are capable of dividing and developing into other types of tissue.

That means the meristematic cells can become roots, leaves, stems, petioles, or any other part of the plant.

Meristems are divided into different types depending on where they occur in the plant.

• Apical meristems are present in the roots and the tips of shoots.
• Intercalary meristems are in the internodes of the stems (the parts between the nodes) and the bases of the leaves.
• Lateral meristems are contained in the cambium layer.

You can make cuttings for propagation based on the types of meristems present in the plant. Basically, you remove the meristematic region, place it in a medium in which it can reproduce, and watch the cell division happen.

Rooting stem cuttings works well with the following plants:

Species that grow adventitious roots, which are roots that develop on the stem above the soil, are all good candidates.

For leaf cuttings, these can be used for:

Before you can take your cuttings, you need to be able to determine which material will work best.

Preparation

While it can vary from species to species, most propagation methods work best if you choose healthy, mature tissue.

In the case of stems, you want a cutting about six inches long with at least two nodes. The leaves for leaf cuttings should be large and mature, and without any discoloration or dead areas. Avoid tiny or new leaves.

The best time of year for propagation is typically during spring and summer when plants are actively growing.

Many species go dormant in the late fall and winter, and that means they might not develop roots before rot sets in.

Avoid propagating stunted leaves and stems and any tissue with brown or yellow areas, spots, or other signs of disease, such as the presence of fungal spores.

Whether you reuse pots or choose new ones, wipe them out with isopropyl alcohol or a 10 percent solution of bleach and water (one part bleach to nine parts water).

Young specimens are extra vulnerable to disease and you want to prevent any pathogens from infecting your plants by sterilizing your tools.

Regardless of the method of propagation you choose, make a note of the light preference of the species you are propagating.

Most houseplant cuttings do best in bright, indirect light, but there are exceptions. Some species need direct light for at least part of the day.

There are few, if any, plants that should be propagated in a dark spot.

Stem Cuttings

Stem cuttings can be taken in several ways. For plants that have canes, you can take the cane along with some leaves.

Leaf bud cuttings involve removing a small piece of stem with the petiole, if the plant has them, and a leaf. A standard stem cutting includes a piece of the stem and at least two buds.

Leaf Bud Cuttings

Devil’s ivy (Epipremnum aureum), dracaena, jade plants, rubber trees (Ficus elastica), fleshy peperomia, and philodendron can all be propagated by leaf bud cuttings.

For a bud cutting, take just an inch or two of stem that contains a single bud and a single leaf. Moisten the stem and lightly coat the cut end in rooting hormone.

Place the cutting in the medium so that the bud is buried, but the leaf is above the medium.

Water the medium well so that it feels like a well-wrung-out sponge and tent a piece of plastic over the new plant.

The plastic should never touch the leaves, so you might need to prop it up with a stick. I save my take-out chopsticks for just such an occasion.

Cane Cuttings

Chinese evergreen, dracaena, dumb cane, and any other species with thick stems or canes can be grown via cane cuttings.

To take the cuttings, remove a section of stem with a sharp knife.

Section the cane into two-inch segments, taking care to include a node, bud, or horizontal ring in each segment. Roots will emerge from these areas.

Note which side is up on each segment so you don’t accidentally plant the segment upside-down.

Dip the cut end in root hormone and set each segment in the medium, buried by about a third. You can also place the canes horizontally, pressed into the surface of the soil.

Water the medium and cover the cane with a tented plastic bag.

Herbaceous or Softwood Stem Cuttings

Many plants can be propagated via herbaceous or softwood stem cuttings.

To take a stem cutting, remove a piece of stem between three to six inches long that includes at least three sets of leaves. The bottom cut should be just below a node.

Remove half to two-thirds of the lower leaves. If the specimen has large leaves, like a fiddle-leaf fig, for example, cut the remaining leaves in half.

Dip the cut end in powdered rooting hormone. Poke a hole in the potting medium with a chopstick or pencil and gently lower the stem into the hole.

A quarter of the length of the cutting should be submerged in the medium.

Moisten the potting medium. You can tent plastic over the container, but it isn’t required with these cuttings unless the particular species you are propagating needs high humidity.

Leaf Cuttings

There are three types of leaf cuttings suitable for propagation. The first is a leaf with its petiole, which is the stem-like growth that holds the leaf to the stem.

The second is a leaf without the petiole, sometimes called a leaf blade cutting.

This propagation method is commonly used with cacti and succulents, as well as African violets and Cape primroses (Streptocarpus spp.). Plants with thick, fleshy leaves work best for this method.

The third is vein cuttings. Begonias are the classic choice for propagation via this method.

Some species, such as snake plants, have leaves that can be chopped up into several sections for planting. You should take the entire leaf of plants like ZZ plants and African violets.

These types of cuttings generally take longer than stem sections to develop sufficient roots that they can be transplanted.

Don’t be surprised if it takes several months before you see any evidence of roots forming.

Leaf Blade

To propagate with a leaf blade, snap or cut off the leaf from the stem or just above the soil.

In the case of thick, succulent leaves, these should be left out on a piece of cloth or a paper towel for a day to develop a callus on the cut end. This callus helps prevent rotting.

Once the end is callused over and feels firm and dry, moisten it and dip the cut end in rooting hormone. Insert the leaf into the growing medium so the leaf sits about a third of its length deep.

Keep the medium moist until roots develop. Even cacti should be kept slightly moist until they develop roots.

If the species you’re working with thrives in high humidity, cover with a cloche or plastic bag propped up with a stick.

Leaf Petiole

This method is similar to leaf blade propagation, but you simply take the cutting to include some or all of the petiole.

When planting the leaf in the medium, only the very bottom of the leaf should be in contact with the medium.

After planting, moisten the medium and cover the pot in plastic propped up with a stick or a cloche, and place the container in an area with bright, indirect light.

Most species will develop several plantlets from each cutting. You can gently separate these and plant them individually or leave them together.

Leaf Vein

For plants like begonias, cut off a leaf that has lots of prominent veins.

Lightly dust the bottom with rooting hormone and lay it on top of the potting medium. Use horticultural wire or paper clips to anchor the leaf into the mix.

The whole section must remain in contact with the medium or roots won’t be able to form.

Moisten the potting mix and cover the pot with plastic. Eventually, plantlets will emerge from the leaf. Separate these and place them in their own containers.

When to Transplant

Regardless of the type, most popular houseplants do best in bright, indirect light and in soil that is moist, like a well-wrung-out sponge.

You can check for roots after a few weeks by working your fingers under the plant and gently lifting it up. If you don’t see any roots or the roots you do see are just beginning to emerge, put it back in place and check again in a few more weeks.

As long as there is no sign of rot, you can keep waiting for roots to develop. Some species take months, so don’t lose heart.

Once you see root development, remove the plastic bag if you used one. Give it another week or two in the same conditions, and then move it into a permanent pot or location.

How to transplant depends entirely on the species you’re working with. In general, you don’t want to move a young specimen to a container that is too large.

One size up from the existing container should be sufficient. When you transplant, try to dig up some of the soil surrounding the new roots, if you can, to reduce shock.