You may not know their name, but you’ll likely recognize their work.
M&S Schmalberg’s unique, handmade fabric flowers have made their way to runways and red carpets – and even in some of your favorite TV shows, like “The Marvelous Mrs. Maisel” and “Bridgerton.”
After 110 years this winter, the family-owned business is blooming.
Fourth-generation co-owner Adam Brand spent most of his childhood in the M&S Schmalberg factory. He learned the artistry of hand-making flowers from his father, Warren, better known as “The Flower Man.”
The fabric flower factory, located in the heart of New York’s Garment District, is one of a kind.
“It’s special. It really is special. First of all, what’s made in America these days? From your glasses to your shoes, you know, what’s made in America? And here we are, not only made in America, but made in New York City,” Warren told “CBS Mornings” in an interview that aired Thursday.
“We’re the last of this art”
Fourth-generation co-owner of M&S Schmalberg, Adam Brand, and his father, Warren.
CBS Mornings
When the company started in 1916, there were over 400 feather and flower manufacturers in the U.S.
“Today, we are the last flower manufacturer. So how unique are we? We’re the last of this art; the last of this craft,” Adam said.
As the industry has migrated to overseas production, M&S Schmalberg continues to defy the odds in the U.S., producing more than 100,000 floral elements in a year. They create each unique design by starching a piece of fabric, stiffening them, then die-cutting them using vintage dies, which creates a flat cutout petal. Then they emboss them using old irons and assemble them by hand.
At the 2022 Met Gala, the company created flowers for 17 different celebrities.
They’ve made flowers for celebrities such as Jenna Ortega, Olivia Rodrigo, Beyoncé, Anne Hathaway, Sarah Jessica Parker, and Rihanna. And have been sought out by fashion’s most renowned designers like the father-daughter duo Gilles Mendel and daughter, Chloé Mendel Corgan.
But the family isn’t seeking fame for the brand. They say personal projects and heirlooms have the most lasting impact.
“Your kids grow up. You have their clothing that doesn’t fit anymore. Maybe you donate it. Maybe you leave it in a box and you just look at it and cry once a month. Make a bouquet out of it,” Adam suggested. “They’ll have it forever. More than anything, I love those projects.”
M&S Schmalberg’ is determined to keep this dying craft alive, with family at the root of the business.
When asked what Warren wants people to understand about the legacy of the family business, he replied, “That we’re here. That we love doing what we do, and it’s a family here.”
It’s sad to say goodbye to the colourful, cheery blooms of the garden when the seasons change. Flowers just make everything feel lighter and happier. That’s why I make an effort to keep flowering houseplants around, especially during the colder months when the garden has been put to bed and I need my flower fix. Design an indoor garden space with these stunning flowering houseplants, and you will hardly miss the summer garden at all.
Houseplants are a wonderful way for anyone to get a little garden therapy, no matter what the circumstances. Maybe you live in a small apartment with no outdoor space. Maybe it’s the dead of winter and you miss seeing green, living things. Maybe your home is dark and needs brightening up (if that’s the case, check out the best houseplants for low light here).
Houseplants are also a great option for those who are brand new to gardening or don’t think they have a green thumb (EVERYBODY has a green thumb, I promise). Once you see your first houseplant grow and bloom because of the care you give it, you’ll go from identifying as a black-thumb gardener to a proud plant mama in no time!
The Best Flowering Houseplants
Here are my favourite indoor bloomers and some basic care instructions for each one. I hope you create a magical, flower-filled haven in your home with these beauties.
Orchid (Orchidaceae)
Orchids are among the most stunning flowers available. Orchids like to dry out between watering and have plenty of air circulation at their roots. They like a humid environment, so make a simple humidity tray to keep them happy.
Prolong the blooms by keeping the orchid in a warm spot out of direct sunlight. When the blooms have faded, clip off the flower stem and be sure not to overwater. It will make an attractive green houseplant until the next flowers appear.
Orchids can be tricky to get to rebloom, but watering is key.
African Violet (Saintpaulia)
Named for their flowers, which are similar in shape and colour to violets, these low-growing plants produce beautiful frilly blossoms which come in various shades of purple, pink, and white.
African Violets like lots of indirect sunlight, so place them in a bright window. Water them from the bottom with lukewarm or room-temperature water and remove wilted flowers to promote new blooms.
Water from the bottom to avoid getting the fuzzy leaves wet.
Cyclamen
Usually pink, purple, or red, these sweet little flowers have delicate upward-facing petals and pretty variegated leaves. Cyclamen need to be watered regularly (every day or so), but they are also sensitive to overwatering, so check the soil’s moisture level before you water. Cyclamen also like good air circulation, so be sure to remove any dropped blooms and leaves from the top of the soil.
Note: Cyclamen are poisonous to pets.
Bromeliads (Bromeliaceae) and Air Plants (Tillandsia)
Bromeliads and air plants are often brought home when they are flowering, as they are the most striking when the vibrantly-hued flower is in its full glory. That being said, a flowering bromeliad or air plant is at the end of its life cycle.
These epiphytic plants propagate by producing pups at the base of the plant after flowering. The mother plant will then die back and allow the pups to grow, flourish, and bloom.
Bromeliads will only bloom once.
Peace Lily (Spathiphyllum)
Peace lilies are among the easiest flowering houseplants to grow, and they will produce blooms all year long. The bloom consists of a spadix (this is the long, skinny piece that sticks up) surrounded by a white or colored spathe (the large spade-shaped “petal”). The little bumps on the spadix are technically the flowers! This plant likes shade best and should be watered only when soil is dry, about once a week.
Note: Peace lilies are poisonous to pets.
Christmas, Thanksgiving, and Easter Cacti
Christmas cactus (Schlumbergera x Buckleyi), Thanksgiving cactus (Schlumbergera truncata), and Easter cactus (Hatiora gaertneri) are succulents that bloom near the holiday that they are named for. These plants produce gorgeous star-shaped flowers that are red, pink, purple, white, orange, or yellow. For in-depth care instructions, see this post.
These can be prolific bloomers if grown right.
Flowering Maple (Abutilon)
Flowering maples, so called because their leaves have a shape similar to maple leaves (they are actually a type of mallow), can grow anywhere from 1.5 to 10 feet tall. You can control their size by pruning regularly and selecting an appropriate indoor flowerpot. The bigger the planter, the bigger the flowering maple will get. Place in a sunny area and water only when the soil feels dry.
Hibiscus
There are hundreds of hibiscus varieties, but the most common one grown as a houseplant is the Chinese hibiscus (Hibiscus rosa-sinensis). This is the tropical variety that you see plastered all over Hawaiian shirts.
To get them to flower, you want them in a bright location. They should get lots of water in the spring and summer. Indoor hibiscus can suffer from bud drop if they don’t get enough water or humidity. Mist them regularly or set up a humidity tray to help keep things humid.
Have fun creating your indoor flower garden, and remember that garden therapy can happen anywhere, from tiny apartments to big outdoor spaces.
Tips for Taking Care of Your Flowering Houseplants
A city girl who learned to garden and it changed everything. Author, artist, Master Gardener. Better living through plants.
Cut flower garden. This is a sub-category of garden that, if you had asked me about three years ago, I wouldn’t have even understood, let alone imagined someday having. But three years ago, when we moved from New York City to eight-plus acres in Bucks County, Pennsylvania, and set about not only caretaking but working to improve the gardens that were now part of our domain, our super-gardener friend Stephanie declared in a tone that conveyed obviousness, even inevitability, “Well, of course you’ll have to plant a cut flower garden.”
For the uninitiated like myself, a cut flower garden is like a vegetable garden but for flowers—not for decoration but for service. I suppose that more elaborate cut flower gardens are meant to service florists or weddings or even roadside stands. But in our case, our cut flower garden services our dining table and our bedside tables and my desk and anywhere else we need that bump of indoor summery joy around our home.
Fast-forward to a year after Stephanie’s suggestion and, indeed, we planted a cut flower garden—resplendent with zinnias, cosmos, dahlias, bells of Ireland, snapdragons, gomphrena, purple hyacinth beans, and more. But there was a problem: Cut flowers are supposed to grow tall—for, ahem, those big tall giant vases that we don’t have—and that means you have to support the plants. And the way that most people create cut flower garden supports, according to our gardening friends as well as the internet, is with a combination of heavy green garden stakes and twine. You pound the garden stakes into the ground at regular intervals, say, three to four feet apart, and then wind twine between the stakes so that you end up with a series of twine boxes with Xs crossing diagonally. Do this lower to the ground and higher up along the stakes and, Bob’s your uncle, that’s that.
Except Bob is apparently not my uncle, and the twine grid method, for me, wasn’t that easy or workable for three reasons. First, as a baseline, I’m not fantastically skilled at winding or tying twine in such a way that it stays taut and in place. So what initially looked like a sharp twine outline of a peanut butter and jelly sandwich expertly cut into triangles by a very anal retentive parent on school lunch duty inevitably looked, just a few days later, like said sandwich had been left at the bottom of a knapsack for weeks. Second, it never looked good. Even where I occasionally managed to get the twine taut, the giant green metal stakes stood out like sore industrial-ish thumbs pocking the landscape of the otherwise lovely natural-looking flowerscape. And third, hard though it had been to achieve this deeply imperfect twine-stake situation—and, indeed, I had spent hours setting it up—I was gutted by the realization that I’d have to eventually take it all down. And then do it all again next year. And so on and so on. Ad infinitum. Forever.
All this effort for something that didn’t work, that looked garish, and would require repeating every single year? Nope. And this is why I built a series of custom flower support grates and bases for them to rest on. Here’s how I did it.
Dried flower embroidery allows you to preserve the beauty of your garden while also adding your own spin with hand stitches. This is just one of the many gorgeous dried flower art ideas you can do using an embroidery hoop. Let me show you how!
As a serial hobbyist and crafter, I love it when two worlds can combine. I’ve been spending the past two summers focusing on my dried flower garden, growing and testing out new flowers, specifically with the intention of drying them.
So you can imagine, I have quite the stash.
But during the winter, you can find me nestled up watching some TV while embroidering my latest project. My embroidery stash is another pride and joy.
Everyone in my life has both dried flowers and embroidery from me at this point. So, it was only natural that I combined the two into these beautiful, dried flower embroidery pieces. It may just become my next obsession this winter.
Here’s how you can make your own stunning dried flower art.
Use a combination of pressed flowers and dried flowers for more depth.
Dried Flowers for Art
Some flowers dry better than others. Test out which flowers in your garden hold their colour and structure. Since these are often small art pieces, I like to use smaller flowers or branching flowers that can break down into smaller bits.
Here are some of my favourite dried flowers to use in a dried flower hoop:
Strawflower, winged everlasting, and fern.
Other Materials to Include
You can also use pressed flowers for your embroidery, but just note that they will be extra delicate to work with. I like to apply them first, as they work best as a background. The 3D flowers on top give the piece depth.
Don’t be scared to explore and incorporate all kinds of natural materials. Here are some things you could forage for:
Don’t forget about seed pods! They’re also great decorating items.
Dried Flower Embroidery Art Tutorial
How many flowers you use and how long it will take you to complete your dried flower embroidery depends entirely on the size of the embroidery hoop you use. I recommend starting with a smaller-sized hoop and working your way up to larger pieces.
Materials
Don’t have an embroidery stash? I recommend getting white and green thread for this project.
Make It!
Use your flowers and your empty hoop to figure out your general design ahead of time so you know how to properly layer the flowers. Take a picture so you remember your design and can reference it while creating.
Lay out a general design ahead of time so you know where to thread/glue items.
Prepare your embroidery hoop by cutting a piece of tulle and placing it between the wooden hoops. Stretch it tight, but not so tight that the tulle looks warped. It should be taut.
Pro Tip: You can also try using chicken wire instead of tulle. This creates less of a delicate look and more of a rustic look, where you weave the stems in as opposed to sewing them. This works great for bigger pieces.
This is how tight the tulle should look.
To secure your flowers in place, you have a few options:
Embroidery. Using thread, this creates the most delicate look. It also takes some patience and handiwork to accomplish.
Weaving. If your flower has an intact stem and isn’t too thick, you can weave it through the tulle. While the easiest way to do dried flower embroidery, it isn’t as secure as the other methods.
Hot glue. This can be a little messy, and won’t work for the smaller flowers, but it is great for securing larger flowers in place without stems.
Start by adding your flatter, background pieces. For this piece, I used pressed ferns as the background. I used a simple stitch along the main vein to secure the fern in place.
I used green stitching to blend in, but you can also use thread and the stitches as a contrast.
Pro tip: Since we’re working with tulle, you have to keep your stitches fairly clean at the back, as they might be seen. I like to start my knot somewhere behind a flower where it won’t be seen. Start a new thread for each flower so there are no jumping stitches.
Add in your next layer of flowers. I usually like to incorporate my medium-sized and branching flowers at this point.
The last flowers I like to add are my larger flowers, which usually are my strawflowers. For these, I like to glue them in place, adding a large dollop to the back of the strawflowers and then holding it in place on the tulle for 30 seconds while the glue dries.
I glued in strawflower and gomphrena, and stitched the bunnytail.
To finish up your dried flower art, trim the excess tulle. Use hot glue all around the back of the hoop over the ends of the tulle to help secure and hold it in place against the embroidery hoop.
Glue the edges of the tool to the embroidery hoop to help secure it in place.
You can also add some embroidery stitching. Again, you have to be extra careful about how the back of your stitching looks through the tulle.
That’s it! These dried flower hoops make beautiful gifts and unique home décor. Hang it on the wall or in the window as a special, dried flower suncatcher.
More Dried Flower Art Ideas
From Vancouver, BC, Holly is Garden Therapy’s Content Manager. She has a BFA in Writing from the University of Victoria as well as a diploma in Floristry Design from Burnaby CCE. At home, she loves to grow cut flowers and dried flowers for her business, Dirty Daisy Florals, and is an avid houseplant collector and lover of bees. You can find her at @dirtydaisyflorals and @hollyheuversocial.
If you are ready for a welcome splash of colour amidst the dreariness of winter, look no further than amaryllis flowers. These cheerful, bold-hued plants are the perfect thing to grow indoors this winter.
Photo courtesy of Flowerbulb.eu
Houseplants of any kind are a welcome sight in the winter. They add some life to the indoors and to the long, cold season. Indoor plants that flower are one of the best ways to add some cheer during a drab winter due to their bright colours and fragrance.
Amaryllis flowers are big, beautiful, and certainly work as a stunning centerpiece. In addition to their bright flowers, the dark and narrow leaves and light thick stems make a wonderful contrast of colours. The amaryllis blooms in the middle of the coldest season, feeling like a little slice of springtime when you need it most—in the dead of winter.
Sponsored Content: This article on forcing spring bulbs is proudly sponsored by Flowerbulb.eu (who also provided some of the gorgeous photos in this post). We partnered on this article to help remind you that fall is the best time of year to get your amaryllis bulbs. There are a ton of great varieties available at online retailers and in garden centers, so you certainly will have plenty of options in your area. The most beautiful and unique varieties sell out early, so be sure to get your perfect amaryllis early this fall!
Photo courtesy of Flowerbulb.eu
The naming of amaryllis can get a little complicated. The botanical name for amaryllis is Hippeastrum, which has several different species. Originally from South Africa, is has around 4 to 6 large flowers on a hollow stem. It is known throughout the world by its common name, ‘amaryllis’.
However, there is also another bulbous plant, Amaryllis belladonna, from South Africa which has 6 to 12 smaller sized flowers on a solid stem. Unlike the Hippeastrum, it is the only species in the genus, Amaryllis. While they have a different background, both species are commonly referred to as “amaryllis”. If you are a plant nerd like me, you will find more details on this and all sorts of interesting amaryllis tidbits on Flowerbulb.eu.
Photo courtesy of Flowerbulb.eu
How to Grow Amaryllis Indoors
To grow amaryllis successfully indoors, follow these steps.
If you haven’t forced bulbs before, don’t fret. Amaryllis bulbs are frequently grown indoors during the winter and it is rather simple to do.
It is absolutely worth it to have a showy display of gorgeous blooms greeting you on an otherwise dreary day. Better yet, you can use the same bulb again and again for beautiful flowers year after year. I’ll show you how to force the Amaryllis bulbs below, but you can learn about forcing other bulbs here.
Photo of Amaryllis ‘Fairytale” courtesy of Flowerbulb.eu
Before You Begin Planting
The first step is to choose the right bulb for your home. In addition to the Netherlands, most bulbs you purchase still come from their place of origin: South Africa. There are many different types of amaryllis that come in different colors, fragrances, and flower types (check out Amaryllis exotica, Ferrari red, and papilio butterfly).
If you want really big flowers, choose the biggest bulbs you can find—with amaryllis, the size of the bulb is indicative of the size of blooms it will produce. It also may produce more flowers on its stems.
Photo courtesy of Flowerbulb.eu
One bulb will typically grow two stems and there can be anywhere from two to five flowers per stem.
A stem measures 16 to 24 inches, so they are certainly a tall grower!
For most varieties, the amaryllis flower measures 10 inches in diameter. Those classified as miniature varieties will have flowers that are about 5 inches across. Still a decent-sized flower!
The second flower stem will develop later than the first, meaning it will bloom later. The blooms will all not open at the same time, so you will have a fairly long flowering period.
If you need to store your bulbs before you plant them, keep them somewhere dark and cool (40-50 degrees Fahrenheit). A fridge is a great place to store them, just be sure not to keep them in there with apples because apples produce ethylene gasses which will sterilize the bulbs and prevent them from blooming.
When Should I Plant Amaryllis?
You can plant an amaryllis anytime between October and April, and it will bloom six to ten weeks later.
Consider this timing if you would like your amaryllis to bloom for a special occasion or holiday—if you count six to ten weeks back from your ideal blooming time, that is when you should plant.
Six to ten weeks is the general range for all amaryllis, but individual varieties often have a more specific time period from planting to blooming. Check the instructions that come with the bulbs for this information.
If you want to have lots of amaryllis blooming throughout the winter, simply plant every two weeks starting in October or later. This will keep a constant pop of colour in your home to last you until springtime.
The Best Container for Amaryllis
Amaryllis works well in a variety of containers. The main thing that you have to remember when picking a container is that it must have enough weight to hold up a fairly heavy stem and large flowers without tipping over. I especially like to use glass vases and Mason jars, but have also been happy with decorative ceramic pots as amaryllis containers. Like any container, make sure it has proper drainage at the bottom of the pot!
As for the size of the container, it depends on how many bulbs you would like to place. They only need about an inch of space surrounding the bulb. I would recommend a 6 inch in diameter pot for one bulb or a 10 to 12 inch pot for three bulbs together. Because of their size, one amaryllis bulb per pot is typical for indoor use.
Photo of Amaryllis ‘La Paz’ courtesy of Flowerbulb.eu
Using a compost-rich soil mix, plant the bulb into your chosen container, being careful not to damage any roots. Amaryllis bulbs should have fairly long roots upon purchase and you are going to want to keep those intact while planting.
Cover the bulb in soil halfway to 3/4 of the way up to its neck and pack the soil down gently.
At first, only water when the top inch of the soil feels dry.
Once a stem begins to grow you should start watering more frequently.
Amaryllis are content being at room temperature, but still like to be in a lighted location. Keep the amaryllis in a warm, bright spot with lots of direct sunlight.
Sit back and watch it bloom!
Re-Growing a Bulb
You can re-grow your amaryllis year after year. Remove old flowers from the plant as they fade and when the leaves of the amaryllis turn yellow, it is time to cut the whole plant down to about two inches tall. Then, remove the entire plant—bulb and stem—from the potting mix. Gently clean off the bulb and store it until it is time to plant it again for next winter.
Photo of Amaryllis ‘Dancing Queen’ courtesy of Flowerbulb.eu
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A city girl who learned to garden and it changed everything. Author, artist, Master Gardener. Better living through plants.
This weekend, Mexican American families across the U.S. will gather to honor their ancestors with altars, marigolds and sugar skulls on Dia de los Muertos — the Day of the Dead. In recent years, the celebration has become more commercialized, leaving many in the community wondering how to preserve the centuries-old tradition while evolving to keep it alive.
Day of the Dead is traditionally an intimate family affair, observed with home altars — ofrendas — and visits to the cemetery to decorate graves with flowers and sugar skulls. They bring their deceased loved ones’ favorite foods and hire musicians to perform their favorite songs.
Skeletons are central to the celebrations, symbolizing a return of the bones to the living world. Like seeds planted in soil, the dead disappear temporarily, only to return each year like the annual harvest.
Families place photographs of their ancestors on their ofrendas, which include paper decorations and candles, and are adorned with offerings of items beloved by their loved ones, such as cigars, a bottle of mezcal, or a plate of mole, tortillas and chocolates.
Day of the Dead celebrations in the U.S. and Mexico continue to evolve.
Cesáreo Moreno, the chief curator and visual director of the National Museum of Mexican Art, said the 2017 release of Disney’s animated movie “Coco” transformed celebrations in northern Mexico and made Day of the Dead more popular and commercialized in the U.S. American cities organize festivals, and Mexico City holds an annual Dia de los Muertos parade.
“Coco” provided a way for people who do not belong to the Mexican American community to learn about the tradition and embrace its beauty, Moreno said. But it also made the celebration more marketable.
“The Mexican American community in the United States celebrates the Day of the Dead as a cultural expression,” Moreno said. “It is a healthy tradition and it actually has an important role in the grieving process. But with ‘Coco,’ that movie really thrust it into mainstream popular culture.”
With its increasing popularity, the Day of the Dead is often confused with Halloween, which has transformed how it is celebrated and people’s understanding of it, Moreno said.
In recent years, some in and outside the Mexican American community have built ofrendas devoid of color, leaning towards a more minimalistic aesthetic.
The colorful altars have been part of Mexican and Mesoamerican culture since the Spanish arrived and converted Mexico’s Indigenous tribes to Catholicism. Some families now build altars without the flowers and papel picado — multi-colored lacy wall hangings featuring hearts and skulls — of years gone by.
Moreno said that’s OK, as long as the meaning isn’t lost.
“If people are looking to do something a little bit different, that is fine,” Moreno said. “But if people stop understanding what is at the heart of this tradition, if people start transforming that, that is what I am against.”
Ana Cecy Lerma, a Mexican American living in Texas, suspects the minimalist ofrendas satisfy a desire to create Instagram-worthy content.
“I think you can put what you want in an altar and what connects you to your loved ones,” Lerma said. “But if your reasoning is merely that you like how it looks then I feel that’s losing a bit of the reason as to why we make altars.”
Sehila Mota Casper, director of Latinos in Heritage Conservation, a nonprofit supporting the preservation of Latinx culture, said American businesses are trying to make money out of Dia de los Muertos as they have Cinco de Mayo, focusing on profit rather than culture. Big chain stores including Target and Wal-Mart now sell create-your-own-ofrenda kits, Mota Casper said.
“It’s beginning to get culturally appropriated by other individuals outside of our diaspora,” she said.
Although not Mexican, Beth McRae has lived in Arizona and California and has always been surrounded by Latino culture. She has created an altar for Day of the Dead since 1994.
She began collecting items related to the celebration in the early 90’s and has amassed a collection of more than 1,000 pieces. And she throws a party to celebrate the day every year.
“This is the coolest celebration because you’re inviting the loved ones that you’ve lost,” McRae said.
“I threw my first Day of the Dead party in San Diego with my very meager collection of items,” she continued, “and it became an annual event.”
McRae said she tries to be respectful by making sure the trinkets she places on her ofrenda are from Mexico, and by focusing on lost loved ones.
“It’s done with respect and love, but it’s an opportunity to raise awareness to people that are not familiar with the culture or are not from the culture,” McRae said.
Salvador Ordorica, a first generation Mexican American who lives in Los Angeles, said traditions must be reinvented so the younger generations want to keep them alive.
“I think it’s okay for traditions to change,” Ordorica said. “It’s a way to really keep that tradition alive as long as the core of the tradition remains in place.”
___
Associated Press reporter Maria Teresa Hernández in Mexico City contributed.
Some of the last flowers to bloom as the growing season draws to a close are Halloween-ready: the headily scented trumpets of Datura are as ethereal as they are toxic. Until a neighbor began growing them in his city tree bed every summer, I paid the plants little mind. Sidewalks are very rough on any living thing, and the flourishing forms of these resilient annual shrubs won me over. Despite complete neglect—receiving no supplemental water, no food, and a lot of unwanted liquid attention from passing dogs—buds keep forming, blooms keep opening every night, and passersby keep being enchanted by the combination of perfume and near-artificial flower perfection, and, later, by the prickly seed capsules. The fact that Datura is strongly associated with toxic, hallucinogenic, and medicinal effects adds to its intrigue.
Here’s more about alluring Datura, also known as devil’s trumpet.
Above: After a slow start, the plants begin to bloom daily after midsummer.
The flowers of Datura are vespertine, unfurling at night, and lasting until the middle of the following day. The strongly scented flowers attract sphinx moths, which are their primary pollinators.
Above: Datura flowers always point upwards.
Various Datura species share a long list of common names that include devil’s trumpet, moonflower, thorn-apple, and jimsonweed. The name angel’s trumpet refers to species of Brugmansia, whose flowers are pendant rather than upright, growing on woodier, taller shrubs.
Above: The flower buds can be as long as eight inches. Above: Their night-scent develops through the evening.
Despite the flowers’ sweet scent, the crushed leaves have an unpleasant odor. While not absolutely deer-proof, Datura is not top of the list for the browsing herbivores. Cases of poisoning usually affect humans, not animals, since the animals may know better.
Toxic alkaloids are found in all parts of Datura but are concentrated in the seeds. The level of toxicity can vary very widely depending on the specific plant, which is why humans looking to experience a botanical high may instead became extremely ill, or (rarely) slightly dead.
Before anyone panics, bear in mind that we feel comfortable around highly toxic plants like yew, foxglove, hellebore and oleander; we barely consider their complex properties.
Gardeners, rejoice! If you’re ready for spring, start the season early by forcing bulbs to grow indoors. Not only will you get to bring some beauty into your home, but you’ll be a step ahead when it comes to your spring garden, too. Here’s everything you need to know about growing bulbs indoors.
Photo courtesy of Flowerbulb.eu
Do you ever find yourself wishing that spring could come earlier? Well, my friend, you can bring a bit of spring indoors this fall and winter with blooming spring bulbs! With a few simple techniques, you can force bulbs to grow early and create a spring garden right in your own home well before they are ready to flower outdoors.
You can make gorgeous, varied arrangements to display on your dining table or other surfaces, and you’ll be feeling sunnier in no time. Grab some bulbs and get ready to welcome spring!
This post will cover…
Bulbs can make for wonderful gifts, alongside growing instructions.
Sponsored Content: This article on forcing spring bulbs is proudly sponsored by Flowerbulb.eu (who also provided some of the gorgeous photos in this post). We partnered on this article to help remind you that fall is the best time of year to buy spring bulbs. There are a ton of great bulbs available at online retailers and in garden centres, so you certainly will have plenty of options in your area. Get your bulbs now so you can chill them in time for an early spring indoors when you need the cheery blooms the most!
Forcing Bulbs for Spring
I’m rather lucky living in the Pacific Northwest, where spring arrives earlier for me compared to other northern counterparts. Oftentimes, I am posting my spring bulbs on social media, and my friends are commenting that they’re still deep in snow!
Snow in May and June is a reality for some, making the true gardening season a few short months. However, you can still enjoy the wonders of spring even if it doesn’t feel like the season outdoors. Forcing spring bulbs is my favourite way to add some much-needed colour inside while you sit and wait to garden outside.
Tulipa Bright Sight, Orange Princess, Queensland, and Varinas, courtesy of Flowerbulb.eu
The Best Bulbs to Grow Indoors
While you could theoretically use most bulbs indoors, some will be more challenging than others. For successful and easy flowers, it’s important to pick bulbs that take well to forcing. These ones are easy to force indoors and produce gorgeous spring flowers that will brighten up your home.
I also like to grow bulbs indoors that aren’t hardy in my area. Some bulbs will only be hardy in warmer zones and won’t naturalize for the following year. Growing bulbs indoors allows you to still experience these more tender bulbs, even if you live in a colder area.
Grow some specialty varieties to really make your flowers shine indoors. Photo courtesy of Flowerbulb.eu
Choose Your Container
Bulbs can be forced in a wide variety of containers, so pick something decorative that will complement the flowers that you’ve chosen. Shallow dishes and pots make good containers for many bulbs, as do simple Mason jars.
You can find containers specifically made for bulb forcing, too—they have a wide dish at the top that narrows before widening out below again into a vase shape, so that the bulb will sit in the top above the water in the vase part.
You can easily use some of your outdoor pots for your indoor bulbs. Photo courtesy of Flowerbulb.eu
Prepare Your Bulbs
Forcing bulbs and other plants is a way of tricking them into thinking it’s time to flower earlier than they naturally would. In order to do this, you have to put the bulbs through a false “winter.”
Spring bulbs naturally go through a period of dormancy over winter, and in the spring, when the soil is warmed enough by the sun, the bulb knows that it is time to come up and bloom. What we’re doing is recreating this effect indoors and on our own time, so that we can have beautiful spring flowers blooming early.
To do this, you need to mimic the bulb’s natural life cycle by chilling it at 35-45 degrees Fahrenheit (or 2-7 degrees Celsius) for about 8-15 weeks. This creates an artificial winter.
You can chill bulbs in a cool, dark spot like a root cellar or unheated garage.
You can also put the bulbs in a brown paper bag in the refrigerator as long as you give them their own drawer away from fruits and vegetables that release ethylene gas.
If you don’t have the time to do this, you can buy bulbs that have already been chilled for you.
Muscari flowers.
Planting Bulbs Indoors
Once the bulbs have gone through their cold period, you can plant them indoors, and the transition from cold to warm will signal to them that it is time to grow and bloom.
If you are using a Mason jar or other deep vessel, fill the container up with small pebbles or marbles. Nestle the bulb into the pebbles or marbles with the pointy end facing up. About half of the bulb should be buried while the top half remains exposed. Add enough water to the container so that the bottom quarter of the bulb is submerged, but the rest of the bulb is above the water.
Make sure not to fully submerge the bulb in water so it doesn’t rot.
If you are using a shallow dish or pot, add a few pebbles to the bottom for drainage and add potting soil to the container. Plant the bulbs in the soil (again, pointy sides up) and add a little more soil on top so that they are just covered. Water thoroughly. Check the soil often and keep it moist with frequent watering.
Keep your soil moist, but make sure it’s not soggy. Drainage is important!
Sometimes you don’t even need soil to grow your bulbs. All you need is a bulb, water, and the right vase. A forcing vase is one that has a narrow top and a wide bottom. This allows the bulb to be only partly submerged in water.
If you have a forcing vase, simply fill the bottom part with water and rest the bulb inside the wide dish at the top. If you haven’t chilled your bulbs yet, place your vase in a dark, cool place and wait. After a few weeks, the roots will grow down into the water. When the flower begins to appear, bring it out for display. If your vase is clear, you even get to watch the roots grow in addition to seeing the beautiful flower bloom.
Hyacinths smell wonderful, making them a true treat indoors. Photo courtesy of Flowerbulb.eu
Decorate!
Growing bulbs indoors is all about bringing some colour and beauty to your home. Beyond the flower variety and colour, you can add a lot of elements to stylize your indoor bulb.
Give your arrangements a little something extra by adding reindeer moss, polished pebbles, or flat glass marbles around the base of the plants, and consider including some delicate deciduous branches for added structure. If you are forcing your bulbs in soil and not just water, you can plant a few pretty annuals, such as violas or primulas, in the same container for some variety.
You can also play around to make your bulbs and container match the season. Opt for pastel hues and cheery containers to create an Easter themed piece. As long as you time it right, you can have bulbs indoors year-round.
Force bulbs indoors any time of year. Photo courtesy of Flowerbulb.eu
Plant Again
After the bulbs have finished flowering and you have enjoyed your indoor display to the fullest, you can plant the bulbs out in the garden and watch them flower again for years to come. If they are hardy in your zone, you can plant them in the ground and wait for them to sping up next winter. Alternatively, you can also store them to grow them indoors again.
To do this, remove old flowers and leaves as they slowly fade away. Once the plant is finished flowering and the foliage has turned yellow, cut the stems to two inches above the bulb. Remove the bulb from the soil and gently clean off any dirt. Store in a cool, dry place until you’re ready to use it again next winter.
Tulipa Dynasty and Hyacinthus China Pink, courtesy of Flowerbulb.eu
More Spring Flower Fun!
A city girl who learned to garden and it changed everything. Author, artist, Master Gardener. Better living through plants.
Orange is the primary color of fall, and mums are typically the go-to flower. But what else blooms in Minnesota each fall?
It turns out that this year, the answer is different.
Marveling a delicate pnik flower, Dr. Neil Anderson looks at crop of hollyhocks.
“Ordinarily it would bloom in July, June. This is rare, very rare for late October,” he said.
This year, the Learning Garden at the University of Minnesota is teaching even the experts to expect the unexpected.
Sure, fall is known for it’s hues, but this season isn’t typical; seeing marigolds and petunias is pecular.
Anderson started breeding flowers in his mother’s garden when he was 5 years old. Now, he teaches flower breeding and genetics at the University of Minnesota.
The late-season color pop is because “we haven’t had a hard freeze way down in the low 20s that would basically kill all the annuals.”
Anderson says that no matter the weather, one flower always reigns supreme this time of year: chrysanthemums.
The longlasting flowers thrive this time of year because the sun is lower.
“Chrysanthemums are what we call a ‘short day, long night’ plant,” Anderson explained. “So that programs them to flower when those short days come along.”
He says aster usually do well this time of year too. There are signs that the growing season is coming to a close, but as for planting in the spring, Anderson says a 60 to 70-degree day would be fine.
There are a few more plants that are still to bloom in November, like witch hazel shrubs. As for vegetables, Anderson, says there is still time this season to plant a few like spinach, beets and peas.
Blue cardinal flower, also known as great blue lobelia, is a tall native perennial that blooms for long weeks at the end of summer. Like its striking cousin, the red cardinal flower, this lobelia relishes plenty of water and is happy growing in full-sun rain gardens, bogs, and damp meadows. But it will also grow successfully without supplemental water in semi-shaded flower borders if its roots remain cool and mulched. Blue cardinal flower brings vertical interest to the garden and is a vividly blue counterpoint to the colors of late summer and early autumn.
Above: The spires of blue cardinal flower can grow up to four feet tall. Above: An illustration of blue cardinal flower from William Barton’s Vegetable Materia Medica of the United States (circa 1825).
Lobelia siphilitica’s species name is derived from one of its many Native American uses as a treatment for syphilis (in conjunction with other toxic-slash-medicinal ingredients like cherry and May apple—don’t try this at home).
Above: Blue cardinal flower with a late summer tangle of obedient plant, ageratum, and rudbeckia. Above: In the middle of a border, the tall spikes of blue cardinal flower hold their own with grasses and asters. Above: Blue cardinal flowers support a wide range of native bees and butterflies.
Cheat Sheet
Blue cardinal flower is native to eastern North America.
It is a member of the bell flower (Campanulaceae) family.
The species name of siphilitica is derived from an historical use of the plant in the treatment of venereal diseases.
Bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds feed on the flowers’ nectar.
Lobelias produce a toxic compound called lobeline, which makes them less palatable to deer.
Above: Blue cardinal flower appreciates afternoon shade where summers are hot.
Keep It Alive
Blue cardinal flower is hardy from USDA growing zones 4 to 9.
Plant its seeds or seedlings in rich soil with plenty of organic matter.
It thrives in damp soil and wet edges of ponds, rain gardens, or streams.
Plant in full sun only in cooler climates.
Where summers are hotter, plant blue cardinal flowers where it will grow in afternoon shade.
Longwood Gardens will bring back its autumn Chrysanthemum Festival later this month after skipping last year’s display of the stunning “thousand bloom” plant and other varieties of fall’s favorite flower.
The botanical preserve in Kennett Square said this year’s festival will run from Oct. 24 to Nov. 16 with a new exhibit explaining the science behind growing and artfully shaping the colorful plant.
The species is one of the few that naturally blooms during cooler fall months, but cultivating them for vibrant displays is a rigorous process that can take upwards of a year. Longwood Gardens took a break from last year’s festival to devote more attention to the opening of its new West Conservatory and other exhibits from the $250 million Longwood Reimagined project.
During a December lecture for Longwood Gardens members, staff said the beloved 1,000 bloom chrysanthemum became a challenge in recent years due to difficulties with flowering. The exhibit in the Main Conservatory showcases a single plant with a thousand or more perfectly grown flowers, a process that took about 1,800 hours of labor in one recent year.
“This is really the most intensive horticultural effort that we engage in here at Longwood,” Jim Harbage, the preserve’s director of floriculture, says in a video explaining the complex method used to create the 1,000 bloom chrysanthemum.
In years past, Longwood Gardens has abandoned the festival’s highlight — despite months of preparation — when the flowers fail to thrive due to root-borne pathogens and other complications.
The displays shown during the Chrysanthemum Festival rely on techniques that trace back more than 400 years to China and Japan, where some of Longwood Gardens’ experts have traveled to study the art of growing the plants. This year’s festival also will include mums shaped into a variety of forms such as baskets, spirals, columns and clouds. Past festivals also have featured chrysanthemum bonsai in rich fall colors.
Attendance at the Chrysanthemum Festival comes with a regular ticket for timed admission to Longwood Gardens. The renovations at the 1,100-acre attraction include the new West Conservatory with its Mediterranean garden, a new bonsai home, a revamped waterlily display and an upgraded overlook for fountain shows.
As the first herald of spring, crocus flowers provide a pop of colour and joy just when we think winter will go on forever. The sleepy bees flock to them as spring food, as the crocus soak in the crisp sunlight. Crocuses are super simple to grow and care for, and the time to plant them is NOW!
Crocuses are beloved by many simply because they’re the first spring flower to emerge, even in the coldest of climates. They’re pure joy!
Crocus flowers grow from bulb-like corms, producing flowers for years on end. They multiply on their own, creating waves of small purple and yellow flowers throughout lawns and garden beds.
I’ve planted crocus corms many times, most recently as a sidewalk project at my previous rental house and in my lawn bulb mixture at my current house. The work of planting in the fall is well worth it come springtime!
Here’s what you need to know about crocus flowers, including when, where, and how to plant them, as well as care and naturalizing tips.
This post will cover…
Crocus flowers enjoy full sunlight conditions.
Autumn vs. Spring Crocus
Everyone loves the spring crocus, as the first flower to emerge after a cold winter. We cherish the small blooms and know that soon, more flowers will begin to awake.
But did you know there are also autumn crocus? While also a showstopper and beautiful flower, they don’t get nearly as much praise simply because they bloom in the fall when we aren’t lacking other flowers.
While both spring and autumn crocus are called crocus, they’re actually not related! Let me introduce you to both.
Crocus flowers and snowdrops are some of the first blooms of spring.
Autumn Crocus
As the name would suggest, autumn crocus bloom in early fall as opposed to spring. Autumn crocus refers to a variety of hybrids in the Colchicum genus, which belongs to the lily family. The Colchicum autumnale is the most common autumn crocus, which boasts light pink-purple and sometimes white flowers.
They’ve earned the nickname of ‘naked ladies’ since they bloom with no leaves, producing 1 to 10 flower stalks per corm. The leaves grow in the spring and go dormant in the early summer, but must be left alone to help fuel the corms for their fall bloom.
The corms should be planted by mid-summer to ensure a fall bloom, though they naturalize and will return year after year. The weird timing of planting these corms means they’re often forgotten about.
Autumn crocuses are hardy to zones 5-9. The corms are toxic to humans and animals.
Saffron Crocus
Another species is the saffron crocus, Crocus sativus, which is also called the autumn crocusby some. Of course, this is the flower that produces the highly prized saffron spice. It is also a fall-flowering plant.
Spring Crocus
The spring crocus is what most people are familiar with, and the one that people cherish the most when temperatures are still too cool for other flowers. They can bloom from January to April, depending on how harsh your winter is.
The spring crocus belongs to the iris family, with over 80 crocus species in Crocus spp. They bloom in many colours, including purple, yellow, orange, pink, white, and even blue. However, purple and yellow are the most common ones I see.
They also grow from a corm and naturalize in the garden. Spring crocuses are hardy from zones 3-8.
The remainder of this guide will focus on spring crocus, since that’s what most people are interested in growing. But it’s important that you know there is an autumn crocus, so you don’t get them mixed up.
Buy a mixed pack to get a variety of colours and patterns.
Planting Spring Crocus
Since crocuses are smaller flowers, they look best planted en masse. Think 100-150 corms minimum! Larger corms produce more flowers, so keep this in mind when purchasing crocus corms.
While you can plant crocus from seed, it can be difficult and take years for the plant to produce flowers. So almost everyone buys and plants the corms.
Spring crocus should be planted in early fall, ideally eight weeks before the first frost.
Crocuses need well-drained soil so the corm doesn’t rot. Choose a location that receives full sun. Avoid planting in shade, though they can tolerate partial shade if necessary.
But since crocuses are early bloomers, larger trees and shrubs haven’t leafed out yet to block sunlight, making areas that are typically shaded still a great location option.
Plant crocus corms with the pointy end up. They should be planted four inches deep to the top of the corm, approximately two inches apart. Plant them in clusters, grabbing a handful at a time.
Water after planting if there is no natural moisture. Snow cover is usually good and all you need. You want to avoid overwatering, so you don’t rot the corm
Pro tip: Try layering crocus with other bulbs, including hyacinth, tulips, and daffodils. Since they don’t have lots of foliage and flower early on, they’re done by the time the other bulbs are ready. Plant the corms according to the depth specified on the packaging, with the crocus on top.
Crocus corms should be planted with the pointy tip facing upward.
Caring for Crocus Flowers
Crocus need very little care once they have been planted. Ideally, you just need to leave them alone!
Crocus require 12-15 weeks of cold temperatures, so they need to grow in cold places.
Do not cut the flowers for six weeks after the flowering period. Ideally, the foliage should be fully yellow before you remove it, as the foliage will charge the corm for next year.
Once cut, leave the corms alone. They prefer dry soil in the summer. They may need water if it’s been a very dry winter and there’s no snow cover, but they’re usually okay without any supplemental watering.
Fertilizer is usually not necessary. I add layers of compost and leaf mulch to all my garden beds, and that’s all my perennial plants typically need.
Crocus flowers will only open when there is sun. They will close at night and in rainy weather.
Naturalizing Crocus in Lawns
Crocus flowers are one of the best “bulbs” to use for naturalizing, especially in lawns. This means they will naturally propagate and spread themselves. As the plant gets older, it will produce offshoots around the main corm. Baby corms will grow in clusters around the main corm.
If going for a naturalized lawn look, you’ll want to scatter them by grabbing handfuls and planting them where they fall. To really get an amazing display in the spring, you’ll want 125-150 corms for every square meter.
After 3-5 years, flowering may decrease. This means your crocuses have crowded themselves out. You may need to gently dig them up with a spade and separate the baby corms from the main corm. Move the baby corms, spreading them out. Divide crocus right after they’ve finished flowering, so you know where the corms are.
A lawn full of naturalized crocus flowers. Photo courtesy of flowerbulb.eu.
FAQ About Crocus Flowers
How do I stop squirrels from digging up my crocus corms?
Small mammals like squirrels, rabbits, mice, and gophers like to munch on crocus corms, especially after planting. They’re drawn to the freshly dug soil, so adding some mulch or leaves on top can help to hide it. You can also protect newly planted corms by covering them with hardware cloth (works better than chicken wire).
My philosophy? Squirrels are going to eat some of the corms, and that’s okay. I plant knowing that not all of them are going to make it.
When do crocuses bloom?
Spring crocus bloom in late winter and early spring, anywhere from January to April, depending on how harsh your winter is. Autumnal crocus flowers in early fall, including the saffron crocus.
When to plant crocuses?
Spring-blooming crocus should be planted in early fall, ideally 8 weeks before the first frost. For autumn crocus, you want to plant them by mid-summer for fall blooms.
Purple crocus and seedum. Can you spot the bee?
More Tips for Planting Fall Bulbs
A city girl who learned to garden and it changed everything. Author, artist, Master Gardener. Better living through plants.
SUGAR LAND, Texas — In his backyard, Ed Prudhomme is growing herbs and vegetables, but the true stunner is his sunflower plant, which is towering over his home. The plant is 20 feet tall.
“The sunflower, I found, was just lovely and different,” Prudhomme shared.
Prudhomme, 90, was an attorney for 66 years. When he retired, he focused on his garden and began growing sunflower plants. Over the years, one plant got taller each season.
“To have a 20-foot sunflower is absolutely astounding,” Prudhomme said.
He discusses where his knack for gardening comes from and the process of growing his plant in the video above.
I love this plant for its unique flower and even more unique seed heads that look fantastic added to dried flower arrangements. In mild climates, direct-sow the minuscule black seeds onto well-drained soil in a sunny or mostly sunny spot, and then keep the soil consistently moist. Love-in-a-mist seeds require light to germinate, so be careful not to cover them up when planting. Bonus: these seeds readily re-seed in my garden every year.
Nasturtium (Self-Seeding Annual)
Above: Photograph by Marie Viljoen.
Another easy-to-grow favorite. I adore how nasturtiums effortlessly scramble about the garden and pump out colorful flowers and lily pad-like leaves. These hardy annuals prefer a sunny spot, tolerate poor soil, and grow well in containers or trailing from raised beds. Some gardeners recommend soaking and scarifying these hard seeds for better germination, but I’ve never done that and have had total success. I encourage my nasturtium family to come back year after year by re-scattering the seeds upon pruning them back.
Above: Photograph by Britt Willoughby Dyer for Gardenista.
Every year I grow some hollyhocks from seeds saved from last year or acquired from generous friends and family. Not to be blasé, but I generally just throw theses flat seeds about at the end of fall, all willy nilly. But I suppose the “proper” way is to sow them a week before last frost at just ¼ inch deep and about 2 feet apart. I find that hollyhocks thrive in a sunny to partly sunny spot. Too much shade and they bloom way less and lean too much. Also know that most hollyhocks are biennials, meaning the first year the plant just puts out leaves and then flowers the next year.
Iceland Poppy (Annual in Warm Climates; Perennial in Cool Climates)
Differing from California poppies due to native origin, use, and flower type, Iceland poppies thrive in cool temperatures, appreciate regular water, and their papery translucent flowers are great for adding to arrangements. You can get a head start on your cutting garden by planting these seeds about four to six weeks before your average first fall frost, or in early to mid-fall in milder climates. Plant the tiny seeds in a sunny spot in well-draining soil and remember not to cover the seeds as they need light to germinate. Theses poppies can be slow to germinate, so be patient. I especially like the Champagne Bubbles mix.
By now I’m sure you know how critical milkweed is to the survival of the monarch butterfly as it is the only plant the caterpillars will eat. Help our winged friends and put these seeds on your late fall planting list. After the first frost, scatter seeds directly on the soil surface in a sunny, well-drained location, and then press them lightly into the soil. If the ground gets dry, lightly water the seeds. Just be sure to choose a milkweed that’s native to your area. Why? Planting non-native types of milkweed risks the health of the butterfly.
It’s hard to think of a flower that screams fall as much as mums do. These plants pop up practically everywhere this season, with good reason. They are hardy plants that can withstand the changing climateand add lovely pops of colour to your porch. Here’s how to care for mum flowers and keep them thriving.
One of the most frequent questions I get asked in the fall is how to care for mums and extend the blooms of these hardy plants! Hardy Mums, Chrysanthemums, or Fall Mums are everywhere in the fall: garden centres, grocery stores, and seemingly everyone in the neighbourhood’s front porch.
These vibrant autumn bloomers are easy to care for and come in many different colours and sizes, making them a great choice for any garden or fall planter project. They also happen to be affordable and, with the proper care, can last quite a while.
Many people just buy a potted mum in the fall and toss it away after its blooms are finished. With a little care and know-how, you can actually overwinter mums and even propagate them so that mum flowers you bought in the fall can keep brightening your garden year after year.
Read on to find out how to choose, plant, overwinter, propagate, and care for hardy mums.
Jump ahead to…
Why Grow Hardy Mums?
Hardy mums are drought-resistant, don’t generally get a lot of diseases or attract pests, and are very low maintenance. Additionally, this late-season bloomer comes in a wide variety of colours and sizes, so it will look at home in any style of garden.
Fall mums can be planted in containers or in the ground and take well to propagation and creative planter projects like pumpkin planters.
Tips for Picking Mums That Will Last
Many garden centres are selling hardy mums for fall, as they are such a great way to add some vibrant colour to the autumn garden. I’ve also seen them in grocery stores, as well as home improvement stores.
Here’s a simple tip that can help you choose the longest-lasting mums possible. It can be tempting to buy a plant that is already bursting with gorgeous jewel-toned flowers but pick one that is not in full bloom yet. Instead, choose a plant that has a lot of buds and lush green foliage that does not look at all wilted.
Fall mums that are already covered in open flowers may be at or past their peak blooming time and will not last much longer, while plants that are just at the budding stage will give you a much longer display. It’s worth the wait!
A well-selected mum should give you blooms for 3-4 weeks, helping you to extend the joys of the growing season.
How to Plant Mums in the Garden
If you wish to transplant your hardy mums from a container to your garden, be sure to do it before the first frost of the season. The earlier you get your mum in the ground, the more likely it will survive the winter.
Make sure you plant them in a location that gets about six hours of sun per day and has well-draining soil.
Do not fertilize mums in the fall, as this can negatively affect blooming. If you purchased your mums in the spring, you can fertilize them up until early summer. I tend to only fertilize potted plants as anything in the garden is already getting what it needs via soil!
Watering Hardy Mums
Mums require little on the gardener’s part, except for a little watering. Water new transplants thoroughly and often, never letting them dry out completely.
Once established, you can reduce watering to once a week. Browning bottom leaves and dropping flowers are signs of not watering enough.
Overwintering Hardy Mums
You can overwinter hardy mums, but to do so, they need sufficient time to set their roots and become established in the garden. This means that your best bet is planting them in the spring so that by the time winter rolls around, they are ready to handle it.
However, if you bought and planted your mums in the fall, you can still overwinter them as long as they went into the ground before the first frost—they will just need a little extra care.
Don’t prune fall-planted mums. The wilted brown foliage will act as protection from the harsh winter cold. After the first frost, mulch mums generously. A thick layer of leaves covering them will do wonders for winter protection.
Overwintering Mum Flowers in Pots
If your fall mums are in pots, keep them there over the winter. You can move the potted mum flowers to a protected spot such as beneath an evergreen tree with low sheltering branches, by the side of a building, or inside a garden shed. This will shield them from the cold and help them survive the winter.
Overwintering will only work with hardy mums. Florist mums make a lovely annual but will not come back year after year.
Spring Mums Care for Fall Flowers
If you overwintered your fall mums, cut back the old stems as soon as you see them beginning to re-grow as one of your spring gardening tasks.
To encourage your mums to bloom again in the fall, you will need to “pinch” them. This means that once the plant has grown to about five inches in height, you should cut one to two inches of new growth from each shoot. After the plant grows another four to five inches, repeat the process.
Keep doing this until mid-July for bushy mum flowers that bloom like crazy in the fall. If you do not pinch back your mums, they will bloom in mid-summer and will not bloom again in the fall. And we want as much colour in the fall as possible!
Propagating Mum Flowers
Mums take very well to propagation. To get even more mums, take a cutting of new growth and remove the bottom leaves. Plant the cutting into a small pot filled with good quality, well-draining soil.
To speed up the rooting process, dip the end of the cutting in rooting hormone before planting it in the soil. Once the plant has taken root and is growing healthily, you can transplant it to a larger container or to the garden.
Frequently Asked Questions About Mum Flowers
When do mums bloom?
Without pinching, mums will naturally bloom in mid-summer. To prevent this, you want to begin pinching the plant for every 5 inches of growth beginning in the spring through to mid-July. Then, you’ll get the classic fall blooming mums.
If you buy potted mums, you can expect them to also bloom in the fall. For the most part, you won’t even begin to see mums until the end of summer to early fall, when the plant already has buds and blooms.
What can you do with potted mums after blooming?
If it’s before the first frost, you can try to overwinter your mums by planting them in the garden. This allows them some time to set roots before the cold settles in. Don’t prune them, and cover the base with a good layer of mulch.
You can also try to leave them in the container. In this case, move them to a place where they’ll be protected, like underneath an evergreen tree or in a garden shed.
There you have it. You can now enjoy the beauty of mums all year long! Let me know of any more questions in the comments down below.
More Plant Guides
A city girl who learned to garden and it changed everything. Author, artist, Master Gardener. Better living through plants.
Everyone knows that ornamental gardens are gorgeous when they’re in full bloom, but you don’t normally think of how beautiful plants can be after their flowers are done. Learning how to dry and preserve flowers and seed pods allows you to have plenty of crafting materials for the cold season ahead.
At the end of blooming season, when plants have gone to seed, is one of the loveliest times. It’s this time of year when natural sculptures take shape in the garden in the form of seed heads, pods, and more. Seed heads come in so many different varieties, from the large sculptural spheres of alliums to tiny, delicate grasses, and they can be dried and preserved to use as attractive indoor decor.
As fall begins, I love to go out into the garden and collect as many seed heads, pods, stems, leaves, and flowers as I can to dry and display. Sometimes I make them into crafts, but often I simply pop a few seed heads as-is into a vase or glass jar and—presto!—I have an instant, artful arrangement.
Collecting flowers, leaves, stems, and pods from the garden now will give you a treasure trove of beautiful dried plants to craft with all year long. Read on to learn how to dry and preserve flowers as well as leaves, stems, and dried seed pods from your garden, plus some creative projects you can try with them. You’ll be pleasantly surprised when you see how much beauty is left behind once the blooms fade.
Dried allium heads remind me of fireworks.
Drying Seed Heads
As with everything I do, I prefer the most natural possible option, so when I’m drying seed heads and flowers from the garden, I avoid artificial preservative sprays and glues. If you harvest your plants at the right time and dry them properly, they will still last a long time and look beautiful, no chemicals or stinky adhesives needed!
The flowers leave behind interesting seed pods and dried stalks, which are wonderful for crafts and dried arrangements. Don’t be too hasty with the pruners, as many species just dry in the garden and can be picked in mid-fall.
It’s a good idea to shake out any seeds so they’re not falling all over the place inside.
Don’t wait too long, either. You want to harvest seed heads once they have dried on their own, but before they begin to decompose or get mushy.
For more fragile plants like delicate decorative grasses, it is best to pick a collection of stems when they look their best in the garden, then dry them indoors.
Some flower pods and grasses look even better in bunches.
Chive seed heads. Most members of the allium family produce interesting dried pods.
How to Dry and Preserve Flowers
Harvest flowers in the morning for best results, as this is when the plant is most hydrated.
Choose flowers that are not entirely openyet. Almost all flowers will open more as they dry. You can also dry flowers that are open, but they shouldn’t have any signs of wilt, browning, or age. Flowers that are already at peak bloom may not dry as nicely.
For stalks of flowers, such as delphinium or winged everlasting, harvest the stems once the first few flowers are open.
Hanging flowers upside down ensures the stem stays straight and firm.
Dry flowers by first removing the foliage and then grouping them into bunches and hanging them upside down in the open air, away from the rain or indoors. Some flowers hold their colour better if you dry them in a dark place and keep them away from windows to avoid sun bleaching.
Hydrangeas must be clipped when already beginning to dry on the shrub, then placed in water.
Good Flowers for Hang Drying
Pressing Leaves and Petals
To preserve tender leaves and colourful petals, harvest them at their peak of colour and place them on the pages of a thick book under weights. Telephone books are ideal (if you still have those!) as the paper in them is absorbent and provides lots of space to dry the flowers.
If you want to protect the pages of the book, slip some printer paper or watercolour paper (it’s extra absorbent) on top and below the flower.
I have tried plant presses, but store-bought ones only hold a small number, so if you like, you can make your own bigger one using this tutorial. As you can imagine, you can press many specimens in the pages of a phone book.
Avoid pressing thick, juicy flowers and foliage as it is more likely to mould than to press well.
To make cards for the winter holidays or for many other uses, such as thank-you notes, birthdays, and for craft fairs or gifts. This one is from my book Garden Made.
This card features ginkgo leaves.
To make herbal tea sachets or scented sachets from herbs and sweet scented flowers to tuck into drawers and cupboards.
Lavender buds are my favourite for providing a floral scent.
This fresh lavender is easy to work with and then dries beautifully.
Preserve pressed flowers in all kinds of resin moulds, such as these coasters.
Pressed flowers and foliage also work wonderfully in candles when pressed against the side. They’re a safe way to include dried flowers in candles.
And to make bouquets from dried flowers for winter use. They have the wonderful quality of not requiring watering when we head out for warmer climes in the winter. My mother taught me the trick to buy beautiful pottery vases and make long-lasting floral gifts for autumn and winter parties.
Now go grab some clippers and head out to the garden for a treasure hunt. In the colder winter months, when the garden has been put to bed, you will be glad that you did!
More Tips for Harvesting Flowers
A city girl who learned to garden and it changed everything. Author, artist, Master Gardener. Better living through plants.
The best way to preserve the beauty of the garden is with a flower press. With just a few materials and tools, you can make a handmade flower press that looks as beautiful as it is functional.
You can certainly preserve flowers and leaves in a book, a method that works well and is explained in this article. For those of you who want to take your crafting to a whole new level, a flower press will give you the most pristine and perfect dried flowers to create your artwork.
Last summer, I grew violas for the first time. They are such pretty flowers, I decided on a whim to press some between a few heavy books. Those pressings turned into a favourite summer activity, and I soon had quite the collection of pressed flowers and leaves from my garden.
This year, as I plan my garden planting, I’ve also decided to prep for more pressings by making my own handmade flower press. Let me take you along and show you how you can make one too!
Colourful flowers often press the best as they retain their colour well.
Handmade Flower Press
Luckily, my grandfather has a woodworking shop, so I stopped by one afternoon and we made this flower press together.
Materials
2 pieces of wood of equal size
4 bolts
4 washers
4 wing nuts
Cardboard (or thin wood)
Watercolour paper (or white paper)
Additional Tools
Saw (or have your wood cut to size at your local hardware store)
Drill
Sandpaper
You can easily use recycled or scrap wood for this project.
Make It!
First, cut your wood to size (you can make your flower press any size you want!). I made mine approximately 8″x 10″. Then, with the two pieces of wood stacked together, drill a hole through each corner (all the way through both pieces of wood). Use sandpaper to smooth off any rough edges.
Note: Make sure to choose a drill bit that is the same size as your bolt. I recommend drilling a test hole (using a scrap piece of wood) and making sure the bolt slides through the hole easily.
Use sandpaper to smooth the rough edges of your cut wood.
Next, cut your cardboard to size. My grandfather happened to have a piece of very thin wood on hand, so we decided to use that instead. Cut your cardboard/wood slightly smaller than your 2 boards. Then cut off each corner so that it will fit inside the bolts.
Use a piece of the cut cardboard/wood as a guide for cutting the watercolour paper (or white paper) to size.
Cardboard between your paper helps to absorb moisture and keep things straight.
How to Use a Wooden Flower Press
To assemble the press, insert a bolt into each corner of the bottom piece of the press. Layer alternate pieces of cardboard, paper, and flowers or leaves inside the press. The number of layers you use will depend on how many flowers you are pressing.
Note: I don’t recommend using paper towels (instead of white paper or watercolour paper) as the texture of the paper towel will be imprinted into your flowers while pressing.
The number of layers you can have depends on how tall your bolts are.
Place the top piece of wood onto the press by threading the bolts through the holes. Add a washer to each bolt, then top with a wing nut, screwing each one down tight, creating even pressure. Your flowers still need some air flow to properly, so make sure the press isn’t too, too tight.
Create pressure and make it flat, but still allow air flow.
Let Your Flowers Dry In The Press For One Month
This part requires some patience. Allow your flowers to press for a full 30 days. I highly recommend checking on the flowers every week to ensure there is no mould. The thicker and juicier the flower, the more likely it is to mould.
Just be extremely careful because checking them, as pulling the layers can result in tearing or wrinkling your flowers!
Let the flowers dry fully for one month before you remove them from the flower press.
Expert Tips for Flower Pressing
Harvest flowers for pressing on dry days. The best time to collect flowers is mid-morning after the morning dew has dried.
Get your picked flowers into the press as soon as possible, before they start to wilt, and keep them out of direct sunlight.
Sort your flowers by type and then place them face down into the press. Grouping like flowers together is best because they will dry at the same rate.
Make sure the flowers do not touch each other in the press. Otherwise, as they dry, they will become stuck together forever.
When pressed properly, flowers retain their shape and colour well.
Decorate Your Plant Press
After my flower press was assembled, I decided to decorate the top with a botanical illustration I found in an old book. I used an X-Acto knife to carefully cut out the flowers. Once cut out, I sprayed the back with adhesive and placed it onto the press. Next, I coated it with a few layers of Mod Podge and gave it a final spray of clear acrylic sealer to give it some extra protection.
Customize your wooden flower press by adding your own illustration, painting, or collage.
Flower Press FAQ
What layers do you need in a plant press?
Each layer of your flower press should consist of a piece of cardboard, the white or watercolour paper, your pressed flowers and leaves, the white paper again, and another piece of cardboard. Keep stacking layers until your flower press is full, and add the wooden piece on top to seal it all in.
How do I press small flowers?
One hack to help press small flowers is to put them between two cotton pads (like the cosmetic ones) instead of paper. This helps them to hold their shape better and prevent the small petals from shrivelling up. Just make sure to use smooth cotton pads so there is no imprint on the flower petals.
What flowers are not good for pressing?
Anything thick and juicy will be difficult to press as it retains too much moisture during the drying process. Unfortunately, this means that plants like dahlias, roses, tulips, mums, lilies, and more are difficult to press without the flower moulding. Many people suggest disassembling the flower petals and reconstructing the “flower” after all the petals have been pressed.
White flowers will also tend to turn yellow or brown in the press, but you can have success with them. Just make sure to press a few extras and see what turns out!
Use Your Pressed Flowers in These Crafts
Rachel Beyer is an artist, designer and creative maker living in Portland, Oregon. She spends her days working at Molly Muriel Apothecary and blogging at Adventures In Making. Her favorite hobbies include cooking, gardening, and crafting.
Echinacea is an easy-to-grow plant that will add a pretty pop of colour to any space. Not only is this plant pollinator-friendly, but it makes for a beautiful cut flower too! Here’s how to plant, prune, and care for coneflowers.
Echinacea has a very special place in my heart and my garden. There’s so much to love about these gorgeous spiky flowers. They are drought-tolerant and won’t complain about poor soil.
They are extremely low maintenance once established and produce a ton of eye candy that brings an added pop of colour to the garden.
Echinacea also makes wonderful cut flowers, attractive pollinator plants, is an important food source for birds in the winter, and they have medicinal properties to help us build our immunity.
With all these wonderful benefits, Echinacea surely deserves a permanent spot in your garden!
Jump ahead to…
Echinacea comes in a wide range of colours.
Coneflower Varieties
There are so many hybrid varieties of Echinacea now available. This ornamental seems to be a favourite of breeders as new coneflowers are popping up every year.
New varieties are being introduced every year that have new or brighter colours, taller or smaller plants, different growing habits, more prolific blooming, and double blooms.
Coneflower can refer to multiple varieties of echinacea.
Here are a few new varieties to look out for in garden centres. I was able to see these in person this year through tours and garden trials, and I really love how they have performed.
Evolution ™ Fiesta Coneflower – spicy coral petals that fade to a more romantic muted tone as they age. From Monrovia.
Echinacea Sombrero® Sangrita has vibrant red-orange petals and a burgundy flower stem from Darwin Perennials. Note: in my garden, the colour came out much more orange than red.
Echinacea Sombrero® Granada Gold has a bright yellow colour that doesn’t fade and a yellow cone that holds some of its hues when dried, making it really nice for dried flower arrangements. From Darwin Perennials.
Growing Echinacea
Coneflowers are very low-maintenance once they are established. Here are a few things you can do to get them started off right.
Starting Coneflower Seedlings
I love coneflowers not just for their beauty but for how easy they are to grow. They’re hardy all the way to zone 3, making them a bright and manageable perennial.
You can begin sowing Echinacea seeds indoors for 8-10 weeks before transferring them outside. After 10-21 days, they should germinate.
You can also direct sow them in early spring or early fall. Seeds should be sown shallowly at approximately 3m (1/8”) deep.
Space them out 12-15”. They look stunning when planted in mass!
Light
Pick a location with the brightest light that you have. Echinacea loves bright light and thrives in full sun. However, the plants will tolerate partial sun as well and still produce plenty of flowers.
I have a lot of shade in my garden, and I try to pop in as many coneflowers as I can anyway. They still bloom in the shade but are less floriferous and can tend to flop over.
Watering
Echinacea is also very easygoing when it comes to watering. Water them well to establish new plants in the garden and encourage deep roots. Once established, they won’t need any supplemental watering unless you are in periods of extreme drought.
Coneflowers are known for being drought-tolerant.
Coneflower Care
Fertilization
Coneflowers don’t need any special fertilizers throughout the year. Plant them with some well-rotted compost, and then add compost again in the spring.
Follow your normal soil-building strategies, and you won’t have to add any supplemental nutrition for the plants.
Propagation
Echinacea grows a long taproot, which helps it suck up water from deep down in the soil and gives it that hardiness. This taproot also means that they aren’t a good perennial to divide.
Allow the plants to clump, and if you want to plant more, start them from seed, cuttings, or grab a new transplant.
Pruning
These low-maintenance plants don’t need pruning throughout the year, but you can prune them to increase blooms and extend bloom time.
Echinacea is already quite a long-blooming plant, starting in midsummer and going all the way into mid-fall in my Zone 7 garden. If you’re lucky enough to have a large space with a collection of plants, you can really extend the bloom time by cutting back some of the plants in midsummer.
Cutting back the plants delays blooming, so you can either cut back all your plants for a late summer and fall display or only cut back some of the plants and stagger the bloom times for an even longer season. Fiskars makes some wonderful pruners that come in handy and cut through the thick stems with very little effort.
Should I Deadhead Coneflowers?
If you want to increase the size of newer forming blooms, you can deadhead Echinacea. If you follow the stem down to the first set of leaves, you might see flower buds forming.
Echinacea bud blooming. Cut just above it to deadhead the plant.
This is a perfect time to go in and remove the flower above. Cut the stem right above the new flower growth, and you can add the bloom to a flower arrangement.
Deadheading is simply cutting off the older flowers, which encourages the plant to put energy into producing the newer flowers rather than producing seeds on the old flowers. Learn more about deadheading flowers here.
Use sharp pruners when deadheading your echinacea.
When the second wave of flowers blooms, I keep them in place for fall and winter as the birds LOVE to snack on the seeds. The seed heads dry with a spiky cone above a tall stem. I dry the cut flowers for their seed heads to use in crafts and leave the rest in the garden for winter interest.
Leave the flower heads to grow on the plant in the fall.
Echinacea Uses
Echinacea has been used medicinally throughout the ages. The following information is from Rosemary Gladstar’s Herbal Recipes for Vibrant Health.
Echinacea pallida and E. angustifolia are primarily wild Echinacea that can be found on the edges of wooded areas. The most common and easy-to-grow Echinacea for gardens is E. purpurea.
These three varieties are most commonly used as medicinal plants. The roots, leaves, and flowers all have healing properties. Echinacea is a powerful immune-system booster that has no side effects and is safe for children, the elderly, and everyone in between.
Echinacea is known as a medicinal plant.
To use Echinacea as a medicinal plant from your garden, ensure that you are growing an organic plant that has not been sprayed or treated with pesticides or herbicides.
The entire plant can be used to make a tincture that’s handy to have around in cold-and-flu season. Take it frequently in small doses at the first sign of a virus, but stop taking it once you get better, as its effectiveness wanes if it’s used too frequently.
Pink coneflower.
How to Make Echinacea Tea
For the tea, you can use the flowers, leaves, roots, or stems of the plant. I like to use the flower petals and leaves. Harvest your coneflowers when the flower heads are fully mature.
You can choose to use either fresh or driedEchinacea. If using fresh, you’ll need 2 tbsp of the flower. For dry, you’ll need 1 tbsp. Let your Echinacea steep in boiling water for 15 minutes. Then, strain the flowers, roots, or leaves from the pot and drink away.
Coneflowers spread by self-seeding. In the fall, if you leave the seed heads, some will drop. Tons of wildlife enjoy these seeds, so most will get eaten up. Whatever doesn’t may germinate the next spring. If you wish to stop the seeds from spreading, simply deadhead the spent blooms in the fall.
Are coneflowers perennials?
Echinacea is an extremely hardy plant that acts as a perennial in most zones. It flourishes in zones 5-8, but can also be grown as low as zone 3. Higher zones will benefit from the drought tolerance of the plant, but may stillneed some supplemental watering.
When do coneflowers bloom?
Coneflowers will bring plenty of joy to your summer and early fall garden. They bloom from July through September.
Do deer eat coneflowers?
Echinacea are considered deer-resistant plants. While deer may occasionally munch on them, they would prefer other plants in the area before eating Echinacea.
European wool carder bee on Echinacea
More Flowers to Grow
A city girl who learned to garden and it changed everything. Author, artist, Master Gardener. Better living through plants.
For their historic home in the enclave of Clifton in Bristol, UK, an energetic couple wanted an informal, biodiverse, and sustainable landscape where their grandchildren and dogs could romp. They called on landscape architecture firm Artisan Landscapes to come up with their dream garden, but the firm recognized that the grand Georgian-style home imposed a degree of formality on its landscape that couldn’t be ignored. As a compromise, they kept the classic formal courtyard layout and overlaid “soft, naturalistic meadow planting” to fulfill the clients’ desires for an environmentally friendly garden.
Above: “The homeowners are lucky enough to have both a front and a back garden,” say the architects, “so we could devote the entire back garden to ‘garden,’ while the front garden has a large lawn for the dogs and grandkids, a greenhouse, and informal borders of vegetables intermingled with perennials.” The back garden, they say, is a more intimate space, “although the grandchildren love whirling about the paths.” Above: The sunken octagon is a focal point of the garden but was also one of the more challenging features to install. “There was a one-meter-thick piece of limestone bedrock located under it that had to be removed to install drainage,” say the architects.
Before
Above: The courtyard had a generous footprint, but the neglected landscape was uninspiring.
After
Above: An antique urn is a focal point in the garden. For more inspiration, see Landscaping: 8 Ideas to Add Antiques Artfully to Any Garden. Above: A long, slim reflecting pool is one of two major water features in the project. “They have a combined volume of five thousand cubic liters,” say the architects, and both are controlled by pumps on remote-control switches. Above: Salvia surrounds the pool. For everything you need to know about growing it, see Salvia: A Field Guide to Planting, Care & Design.
Flowers have a remarkable ability to bring beauty and personality to our gardens, and there’s something delightful about exploring varieties that start with a particular letter. In this case, let’s dive into the world of flowers that start with P.
Whether you’re looking for fragrant blooms, hardy perennials, or something with a touch of symbolism, this list of flowers beginning with P list is packed with vibrant choices.
From classic garden favourites like Peonies and Poppies to unique finds like the Peruvian Lily and Pheasant’s Eye, there’s something for every type of garden. You’ll discover flowers that thrive in rock gardens, bloom in early spring or late summer, and add splashes of colour across all seasons.
For each flower on this list we’ve included a picture, key flower facts, common names, and associated symbolism.
List of flowers that start with P
Let’s dive into our list of 50 beautiful flowers starting with P and see what inspiration these charming blooms can bring to your floral projects.
Pachysandra (Pachysandra terminalis)
A low-growing ground cover with small, white flowers, Pachysandra thrives in shade and represents humility. It’s ideal for filling in shaded areas with its glossy leaves.
Paintbrush Lily (Scadoxus puniceus)
This striking plant has a dense, spherical cluster of bright red flowers. Known for its medicinal properties, it symbolises protection and is native to South Africa.
Painted Daisy (Tanacetum coccineum)
The Painted Daisy has cheerful, daisy-like blooms in pink, white, and red. A favourite for pest control in the garden, it symbolises innocence and purity.
Pandanus (Pandanus tectorius)
This tropical plant has fragrant, screw-like leaves. It represents protection and shelter.
Pansy (Viola tricolour var. hortensis)
With face-like markings, the Pansy is beloved for its cheerful look and symbolises thoughtfulness.
Papaya Flower (Carica papaya)
The tropical Papaya plant produces delicate white flowers that are followed by edible fruit. It symbolises abundance and grows best in warm, sunny climates.
Papyrus (Cyperus papyrus)
An ancient plant associated with Egyptian culture, Papyrus has unique, fan-like flower clusters. It symbolises history and knowledge and grows well in moist, sunny areas.
Pasque Flower (Pulsatilla vulgaris)
This early spring flower has delicate, bell-shaped blooms in shades of purple. Often symbolising rebirth, the Pasque Flower is commonly found in sunny rock gardens and is ideal for sandy soils.
Passion Flower (Passiflora spp.)
This exotic climber has intricate, star-shaped flowers with a lovely fragrance. Known to represent spirituality and faith, it thrives in well-drained soil and full sun. Some varieties even bear edible fruit.
Pavonia (Pavonia hastata)
With delicate white and pink flowers, Pavonia is a beautiful choice for part-shade areas. It’s a symbol of grace and prefers well-drained soil.
Peace Lily (Spathiphyllum spp.)
Known for its glossy leaves and elegant white flowers, the Peace Lily symbolises tranquility and purity. It’s adaptable and grows well in partial shade, making it a popular indoor plant.
Pearly Everlasting (Anaphalis margaritacea)
This small white flower is known for its durability and symbolises purity and immortality. It’s a lovely addition to dried flower arrangements.
Pelargonium (Pelargonium spp.)
Often confused with Geraniums, these colourful flowers symbolise friendship. They thrive in well-drained, sunny spots and are popular for borders.
Peliosanthes (Peliosanthes spp.)
A tropical plant with small, white flowers, Peliosanthes is known for its attractive foliage and symbolises patience. It prefers part shade and well-drained soil.
Penstemon (Penstemon spp.)
Known for its tubular blooms that attract bees and hummingbirds, Penstemon comes in shades of pink, purple, and blue. Commonly called “Beardtongue,” it symbolises courage and works well in rock gardens, enjoying full sun and well-drained soil.
Peony (Paeonia spp.)
The Peony is often called the king of flowers for its large, luxurious blooms in pink, white, red, and sometimes yellow. These beautiful flowers prefer full sun and well-drained soil and are a great addition to late spring gardens.
Known for its strong fragrance, Peonies symbolise good fortune and romance, making them a popular choice for gardens and bouquets alike.
Perilla (Perilla frutescens)
A member of the mint family, Perilla has aromatic, purple-tinted leaves and small flowers. It’s used in Asian cuisine and symbolises protection and comfort. It thrives in full to part sun and poor soils.
Persian Buttercup (Ranunculus asiaticus)
Persian Buttercups are vibrant, layered blooms in shades of yellow, pink, and red. They add a touch of romance to early summer gardens and symbolise charm and elegance.
Persian Silk Tree (Albizia julibrissin)
More of a flowering tree, this plant’s pink, fluffy flowers add a tropical feel. Known to represent joy, it’s a lovely addition to warm gardens with well-drained soil.
Persicaria (Persicaria spp.)
Also known as Knotweed or Smartweed, Persicaria produces tiny pink, white, or red flowers on tall spikes. It symbolises resilience and flourishes in partial shade. It’s often used as a ground cover in rock gardens.
Peruvian Lily (Alstroemeria spp.)
With their striking trumpet-shaped blooms in various colours, Peruvian lilies symbolise friendship and devotion. Ideal for both cut flowers and garden beds, they flourish in full to part sun and add a burst of colour in summer.
Petunia (Petunia spp.)
Petunias bloom in a variety of colours and are symbols of desire and strength. They’re versatile and can thrive in containers, beds, and sunny borders.
Phalaenopsis Orchid (Phalaenopsis spp.)
Commonly called Moth Orchid, Phalaenopsis has exotic, long-lasting blooms that symbolise beauty and elegance. Native to Asia, it’s a popular houseplant, known for its low maintenance and long flowering period.
Pheasant’s Eye (Adonis annua)
This vibrant flower blooms in early summer. Known to symbolise remembrance and beauty, it enjoys full sun and thrives in sandy soils.
Philadelphus (Philadelphus coronarius)
Commonly known as Mock Orange, Philadelphus has fragrant white flowers that smell like orange blossoms. A symbol of memory, it’s a wonderful addition to late spring gardens and prefers full sun.
Phlomis (Phlomis spp.)
Also called Jerusalem Sage, Phlomis has yellow, whorled flowers and thrives in sunny, well-drained areas. It symbolises resilience and is popular in Mediterranean-style gardens.
Phlox (Phlox spp.)
Phlox produces clusters of small, sweet-scented flowers in white, pink, or purple. These symbolise unity and harmony, and they’re perfect for cottage-style gardens. Phlox plants enjoy full sun and well-drained soil.
Pimpernel (Anagallis arvensis)
Also known as Scarlet Pimpernel, this delicate red or blue flower symbolises change and curiosity. It enjoys sunny areas and blooms through the summer.
Pincushion Flower (Scabiosa spp.)
Named for its unique, cushion-like blooms, the Pincushion Flower is perfect for rock gardens and well-drained soil. These soft purple or blue flowers are symbols of peace and love, blooming from early summer to early autumn.
Pine Lily (Lilium catesbaei)
A wild lily with bright orange-red blooms, Pine Lily is native to North America and thrives in sunny, well-drained areas. It symbolises passion and vitality.
Pineapple Lily (Eucomis spp.)
This tropical flower has a pineapple-like cluster of blooms in shades of white, pink, and green. A symbol of hospitality, it’s an exotic choice for well-drained, sunny spots.
Pink Turtlehead (Chelone obliqua)
These unique pink flowers resemble a turtle’s head and prefer partial shade. They symbolise resilience and determination, making them a striking choice for damp garden spots.
Platycodon (Platycodon grandiflorus)
Also known as Balloon Flower, Platycodon has blue, pink, or white bell-shaped blooms that “inflate” before opening. Representing sincerity, it’s ideal for rock gardens and thrives in full sun to part shade.
Plectranthus (Plectranthus spp.)
With its small purple or white flowers and aromatic foliage, Plectranthus (also known as Spur Flower) is prized for its attractive foliage. It represents resilience and is commonly used as a ground cover in shade.
Plumbago (Plumbago auriculata)
With delicate blue flowers, Plumbago is a symbol of endurance. It’s ideal for full sun and well-drained soil, and is often used as a low hedge or border plant.
Poinsettia (Euphorbia pulcherrima)
Commonly associated with Christmas, the bright red, pink, or white blooms (which are actually bracts) of Poinsettia add winter cheer and symbolise joy and celebration.
Polemonium (Polemonium caeruleum)
Also called Jacob’s Ladder, Polemonium has lovely blue or purple flowers and symbolises humility. It’s perfect for partial shade and blooms in late spring.
Polyanthus (Primula polyantha)
A variety of primrose, Polyanthus has colourful blooms in red, yellow, and purple. Known to symbolise young love and cheerfulness, it’s a hardy spring bloomer that enjoys moist soil.
Poppy (Papaver spp.)
Poppies are a cheerful sight with their vibrant red, pink, and purple flowers. They thrive in sunny spots and poor soils, blooming in late spring and early summer.
As symbols of remembrance and peace, poppies can bring emotional significance to your garden beds.
Potentilla (Potentilla spp.)
Commonly known as Cinquefoil, Potentilla has delicate yellow flowers and is often grown as a low-maintenance ground cover. It represents strength and adaptability, preferring full sun and well-drained soil.
Pot Marigold (Calendula officinalis)
Bright and cheerful, the Pot Marigold has been used in traditional medicine and is edible, adding colour to salads. Known as a symbol of cheerfulness and health, they bloom from spring to autumn in various colours.
Prairie Gentian (Eustoma grandiflorum)
This stunning flower resembles a rose, with trumpet-shaped blooms in blue, purple, white, or pink. Symbolic of calm and gratitude, it’s native to North America and thrives in well-drained soil and full sun.
Pride of Madeira (Echium candicans)
This eye-catching shrub features tall blue or purple spikes and thrives in sunny, well-drained areas. It’s symbolic of strength and vitality.
Primrose (Primula vulgaris)
A traditional flower in the UK, the primrose is a beautiful early spring bloomer with soft pastel colours. Known for its association with renewal, this delicate flower is often linked with new beginnings and love.
Primula (Primula spp.)
Closely related to Primroses, Primulas bloom in early spring and come in a rainbow of colours. They represent renewal and are ideal for moist, shaded areas.
Ptilotus (Ptilotus exaltatus)
Known as the “Mulla Mulla,” this Australian native has fluffy pink flower spikes and symbolises resilience and adaptability. It’s well-suited to arid environments and tolerates poor soils.
Purple Coneflower (Echinacea purpurea)
Known for its medicinal properties, the Purple Coneflower is a hardy perennial with bright pink-purple blooms. It symbolises strength and healing and is popular for both garden beds and natural medicine.
Purple Loosestrife (Lythrum salicaria)
A tall perennial with spikes of purple flowers, Purple Loosestrife symbolises calm and peace. It grows well in moist soil and is ideal for adding height to flower beds.
Purple Poppy Mallow (Callirhoe involucrata)
A low-growing plant with magenta blooms, the Purple Poppy Mallow is ideal for rock gardens and tolerates arid environments. Symbolising love and cheer, it’s well-suited to dry, sunny spots.
Pussy Willow (Salix discolour)
While not a typical flowering plant, Pussy Willow is adored for its soft, silvery catkins that appear in early spring. Symbolising renewal, it’s a favourite in both floral arrangements and the garden.
From the classic Peony to the more exotic Passion Flower, these “P” flowers provide a range of options for gardeners looking to add colour, symbolism, or even historical touches to their flower beds. Whether you’re aiming for a classic English garden or a Mediterranean-inspired space, there’s a “P” flower that will fit perfectly.
Will you be adding some of these flowers that start with P to your garden designs?
