Tag: dogwood

Back in my 20s I got serious about the art of winter decor. I wanted to take the valuable wreath-making skills my mother taught me to a higher level.

So I began to study the individual pieces of what constitutes attractive, eye-catching displays. And I made an important discovery: red twig dogwood.

Red twig dogwoods are deciduous shrubs in the Cornus genus. Depending on where you live in the world, you can find red twig varieties and cultivars of various species in the genus.

In this article, I’ll be covering the species most commonly grown in home gardens: C. alba, C. sanguinea, and C. sericea.

The moment I identified this group of plants as an integral player in the winter decor and gardening game, I felt like I’d won the lottery.

At first, back then, I would go to great lengths to scavenge and forage in forests for the vibrant red twigs – hiking across fields, mucking through swamps. It was a lot of work. So when I finally had my own land to cultivate my dearest plant buddies, these dogwoods definitely made the list of must-haves.

Today, in my garden, I have three different types of red twig dogwoods growing, and I’m going to share all about how to grow and care for these vibrant shrubs.

Here’s a quick overview of what I’ll cover in this article:

If you’re ready to take your winter gardening to the next level with red twig dogwood, let’s jump right in!

What Is Red Twig Dogwood?

Cornus is a genus in the Coraceae family of flowering trees and shrubs known for their attractive trees and flowers and their distinctive, vibrantly colored bark, commonly known as dogwoods.

There are roughly 50 different species within the genus and the colors of their bark range from acid green, to orange, yellow, and red. Most of the types commonly referred to as “red twig dogwoods” are from the species C. alba, C. sanguinea, and C. sericea.

The bright or deep red color of their bark is most pronounced in younger stems and most often observed or noticeable during the winter after the shrubs have dropped their leaves.

Aside from the name red twig dogwood, each of the three species goes by several other common names.

C. alba is also known as tartarian or tatarian dogwood, red-barked, Siberian, and white-berried dogwood. It’s native to Siberia, northern China, and the Korean peninsula.

C. alba was previously classified as C. pumila and Swida alba so you may sometimes see it labeled with these synonyms.

C. sanguinea, also known as common dogwood, sometimes goes by blood twig, European, and swamp dogwood. This species is native to Europe and western Asia.

C. sericea is commonly known as red osier or American dogwood, as it’s native to North America. Additionally, it is sometimes mistaken for C. alba.

There are a large number of varieties and cultivars within these three species, and not all of them feature the red branches that give them the moniker “red twig dogwood.” In this article, we’ll focus on the red twig types.

In general, these shrubs can range anywhere between four to 15 feet tall and from three to 15 feet wide at maturity. They reach full maturity within about five to 10 years.

Red twig dogwoods begin their annual growth cycle in spring with buds that open into clusters of small, white flowers, attracting bees and butterflies. As summer approaches, these flowers give way to white or bluish-greenish berries, which are popular with birds.

Leaves emerge to a lush solid green, or subtle shades of gold. Some cultivars have variegated foliage with attractive white, cream, or yellow with green combinations.

Come fall, the leaves transform into shades of deep gold, orange, purple, and red offering a brilliant autumn display. In winter, the foliage falls away to reveal the signature brightly colored stems, creating striking visual interest against a snowy or lackluster backdrop.

This seasonal progression showcases the varied ornamental qualities of the red twig dogwoods throughout the year. These shrubs are low maintenance and grow successfully in USDA Hardiness Zones 2 to 8, depending on the species.

We’ll cover more on care and maintenance later, but it’s worth mentioning here that to produce those coveted red twigs, regular pruning is necessary to refresh the growth because the youngest branches are also the most brightly colored.

Before we move to care, though, let’s explore the history and origin of these beauties.

Cultivation and History

The beauty of red twig dogwood only showcases one side of its personality. Culturally, it boasts a history of functional uses.

Native Americans used the bark of C. sericea in dyes and basket weaving, and they also added it to their smoking tobacco. The strong branches made terrific handles for tools.

These shrubs serve well in riparian zones, shelterbelts, woodlots, and many other areas targeted for ecological reclamation and naturalization. They stabilize the soil, attract pollinators, and feed wildlife, making them an ideal plant for agroforestry designs.

While birds and small mammals might enjoy the berries of red twig dogwoods, you, as a human, might not. Although they are technically edible, they are bitter-tasting and can cause gastrointestinal distress.

First Nations peoples consumed them but would often combine the berries with other sweet fruits like Saskatoon berries.

Now that we’ve got a good idea of what red twig dogwood shrubs are, and why they’re popular, let’s take a closer look, beginning with how to propagate these plants.

Red Twig Dogwood Propagation

Red twig dogwoods can be propagated via a few different methods including from seed, by taking cuttings, by division, and of course by transplanting a container-grown plant purchased from a reputable grower.

From Seed

While it is possible to collect seeds and grow red twig dogwood plants from these seeds, the process is tricky, time-consuming, and unpredictable.

Many of the shrubs you buy from greenhouses and nurseries are cultivated varieties and seeds will not grow true to the parent plant.

Additionally, red twig shrubs growing in the wild have likely cross-pollinated with neighboring dogwoods.

If you’re keen to collect seeds and attempt growing a red twig dogwood via this method, you’ll need to pick the ripe berries in fall and mash them up to extract the seed.

The seeds require cold-stratification, which can either be achieved by direct sowing fresh seed outdoors in fall, or keeping them in the refrigerator for two to three months before sowing in spring.

After stratification, you can sow the seeds in a shallow tray of potting soil or directly in the ground in spring. Maintain even moisture in the soil.

When seedlings have reached about two inches tall, pot them up into individual three- to six-inch containers.

Once seedlings have reached six to eight inches tall, they can be planted out into the garden, ideally in spring or fall.

Learn more about how to start dogwoods from seed in our guide.

From Cuttings

A more reliable method of propagation is to take stem cuttings.

You can take softwood cuttings in spring or summer, or hardwood cuttings in fall, after the leaves have fallen from the plant.

Softwood

Clip four- to six-inch lengths of young stems, defoliate the bottom half, and dip the cut end in rooting hormone. Then stick the dipped end into a shallow tray of potting soil. It’s best to start plenty, in case some of them fail.

Keep the soil consistently moist and cover the tray with plastic that allows for some ventilation, propped up so it doesn’t make contact with the cuttings. This will keep the immediate air around the new plants moist and warm.

Place them in a sunny location, with bright, indirect light.

When you notice new growth, pot up the cuttings into individual three- to six-inch containers. Maintain a consistent level of moisture without drowning the roots. Too much moisture can cause rot.

Once the cuttings are about six to eight inches tall, you can plant them out into the garden, preferably in spring or fall to avoid summer heat.

Hardwood

Hardwood cuttings are an even more reliable method of propagating red twig dogwoods. This method is slow but is usually very successful.

First, select a healthy looking young shoot that is less than a year old. Remove the tip, then cut the twig into six- to nine-inch lengths. Make a clean, angled cut above a bud at the top of each section.

At the base of each cutting make a straight cut. This is the end that will be rooted. Dip this end in rooting hormone and tuck it into a prepared trench outdoors.

Your trench should be made in well-draining, fertile soil in a location that is sheltered from the wind.

Stick the cuttings into the trench so that about one third sits above the soil, with at least two buds exposed. Firm the soil around the cuttings and maintain consistent moisture.

New aboveground growth is indicative of successful root formation, which may take several months, and at this point, the clones can be transplanted elsewhere if desired.

From Suckers

Many red twig dogwoods produce suckers, and it’s possible to divide these suckers to produce new plants.

Begin by digging carefully close to the area of the sucker you wish to remove from the parent plant.

Expose the section of roots you wish to divide. Cut the section free from the parent plant making sure to include the stems and roots of the sucker. Fill in the hole where you removed the division and firm the soil at the base of the parent plant.

Next, take your sucker, trim the aboveground growth by approximately half its original height. This will encourage new, vigorous growth after transplant.

If your division is small, and you take it in the spring, you can foster it in a container during the summer before planting out in the fall if you like.

Because these are vigorous growers, it’s fine to plant divisions directly in the ground as long as you tend to their needs as required.

Transplanting

The easiest way to get started with a red twig dogwood is to purchase a shrub from a greenhouse or nursery and transplant it into the garden in early spring or fall. I’ll walk you through the process.

First, be sure to choose an appropriate planting site. I’ll cover everything your red twig dogwood needs to live its best life in the next section, so feel free to circle back here later if you need to.

Start by digging a hole that is twice as wide and the same depth as the root ball of your shrub. Depending on the stage of growth your plant is at, this could be anywhere from six inches to two feet wide.

Next, remove your plant from its container and examine the roots. Clip away any twisted or damaged roots and loosen those that have become potbound.

If roots are severely potbound, make a few cuts into the root ball with your hori hori or a sharp knife to create some space in the root ball.

As long as your soil is in good condition, you shouldn’t need to add amendments as these plants are pretty resilient.

If you’re like me and you want to give your new plants the best chance at survival, scoop in a shovelful of well-rotted compost and mix it into the soil you removed from the planting hole.

Set the plant in place, aiming for the top of the root ball to be level with the surrounding ground.

Backfill with soil, gently tamping around the roots as you work. When you’re finished, give your new transplant a nice drink of water. This should be at least two or three gallons.

If the soil settles quite a bit while watering, add more soil to the surface. Apply a two- to three-inch layer of mulch over the root zone to aid in moisture retention and to insulate the vulnerable roots from extreme heat or cold.

Now that you are familiar with all the ways to propagate red twig dogwood shrubs, let’s take a closer look at all the elements these plants need to live their best lives.

How to Grow Red Twig Dogwood

Red twig dogwoods are suitable for cultivation in USDA Hardiness Zones 2 to 8, depending on the type. They grow best in full sun to part shade. 

They prefer loamy soil with a pH of 5.5 to 8.5, but some will do fine in other soil types, as long as it’s moist, yet well-draining. Some varieties will even tolerate wet soils, which is the reason you’ll often see swaths of red twigs growing in ditches and swampy or boggy areas.

Most red twig dogwoods are fast growers and some sucker freely, so check the expected mature height and width of your plant on the tag that accompanies it so you can plan your spacing accordingly.

These shrubs typically reach their maximum size somewhere between five and 10 years old.

Although red twig dogwoods might be able to tolerate a dry spell and bounce back after the next rainfall, to keep them as healthy as possible, be sure to irrigate in times of drought.

These shrubs are low maintenance, save for some pruning if you want to keep their size in check and encourage their vibrant red color. I’ll discuss pruning along with other recommendations for maintenance of these shrubs later, so keep reading!

Growing Tips

• Choose a planting site in full sun to part shade.
• Plant in loamy soil that is moist, yet well-draining.
• Space plantings according to the shrub’s size at maturity.

Pruning and Maintenance

There are three reasons to prune red twig dogwoods: to keep them healthy, to control their shape, and to encourage new growth that produces the brightest red color.

The best time to prune your red twig dogwoods is while the shrubs are dormant, in late winter or early spring.

Remove any damaged, broken, crossed, or unhealthy branches by cutting them at the base of the plant, just above the soil line.

As they are vigorous growers, these woody shrubs can become quite large very quickly. If you want to contain them and control their size, don’t be afraid of giving them a hard pruning.

In late summer, you’ll notice that young stems will turn red and the color will intensify throughout the winter. Once the stems reach about three years old, they begin to fade to a dull green, brown, or gray color.

Cut these stems at the base of the plant as part of your regular pruning routine. The plant will respond by sending out fresh, new growth continually.

These shrubs will tolerate rejuvenation pruning, which can renew an old, unproductive shrub. If your red twig dogwood has been neglected and isn’t producing red branches as you’d like, cut it back to about six to eight inches from the ground.

Although it will leave an empty space in your landscape or garden for a season, it will quickly fill back in with fresh, vibrant red growth.

Follow this up with yearly pruning, removing about 30 percent of the largest branches each spring. This will put your pruning schedule back on track.

Fast-spreading suckers are very helpful for controlling erosion. But if your dogwood is spreading wider than you’d like, control it by removing suckers.

Use a spade or sharp shovel and some good old-fashioned brute force to stomp through and cut the suckers and their roots away from the base of the plant.

After pruning in early spring, finish your maintenance by topping up the layer of mulch to about two to three inches deep, from the base of the plant to the drip line.

This should cover the root zone, but not touch the stems. Keep the mulch two inches away from the stems.

As I’ve mentioned, these shrubs are very low maintenance. Ensure they have consistent moisture, prune to encourage new healthy growth, control suckering if desired, and mulch to retain soil moisture. Not much work to get that vibrant winter color you’re looking for.

Red Twig Dogwood Species and Cultivars to Select

With a wide range of varieties and cultivars to choose from across most of the United States and Canada, you’ll likely find many interesting red twig dogwoods in your local region.

 I’ve got three different specimens growing in my gardens here in Zone 5b and I couldn’t be happier with them.

Herbivores

I usually recommend protecting the lower trunks and stems of young fruit-producing shrubs with some kind of physical barrier.

This is because animals like rabbits and deer like to nibble on immature growth of some of these plants.

With my red twigs, however, I did not do this and they were never significantly bothered.

This could be because there were other desirable plants the herbivores were drawn to in my gardens. But it’s a smart idea to protect young transplants for the first season while they become established.

Because red twigs are multi-stemmed shrubs, trunk wraps and spirals will not work. Instead, shape a length of chicken wire into a cylinder around the base of your plant and secure it into the ground with stakes.

As for birds, I’m never concerned with protecting the berries from them because they aren’t part of my diet.

In fact, I use my red twigs and other inedible shrubs to feed the birds. Birds help control unwanted insects and encouraging their presence in our gardens is a good thing! So let the birds feast!

Insects

Several different kinds of insects will feed on these shrubs, and you can read about them in our guide to dogwood pests.

I’ve highlighted a few you should watch for on your red twig dogwoods.

Dogwood Borer

Dogwood borer, Synanthedon scitula, is the larvae of a clearwing moth. The moth looks similar to a wasp and females lay their eggs on the bark of the plant.

The larvae measures under an inch long at maturity and off-white in color with a dark head.

Borers enter the plant through an opening or wound, crawl inside and feed on the cambium, causing the branch to die.

You might notice early leaf drop or leaves turning red earlier than usual. You might also see frass, that looks like sawdust on or near the plant.

Because these insects enter through holes, take care not to cause damage as you perform maintenance such as weed whacking around your shrubs.

If you identify these borers eating your dogwood, prune away the affected branches.

Dogwood Club Gall Midge

The dogwood club gall midge, Resseliella clavula, is a tiny fly, almost too small to see unless you look closely.

It’s less than one-eighth of an inch long and it lays eggs on terminal shoots of your plant. When the eggs hatch, the larvae move into the nearby shoot.

As the larvae feeds, swollen galls form on the branches – they can be up to one inch in diameter.

In the fall, the larvae emerge from the gall and fall to the ground below where they overwinter and later transform into adult flies to begin the cycle again.

Since infestations rarely grow out of control, just prune the galls as you see them and dispose of them in the garbage.. This destroys the larvae and ends the cycle.

Horse Chestnut Scale

Horse chestnut scale, Pulvinaria regalis, are insects that feed by sucking sap from the host plant.

They are small, usually about four to five millimeters in diameter, brown colored, and round at maturity.

These insects follow a one-year generational cycle, beginning in June or July when the eggs hatch. Nymphs move to the undersides of leaves where they feed. In the fall, they migrate to the bark where they overwinter and begin feeding again in early spring.

Mature scale insects have a protective shell and when they lay eggs under their bodies, these are sheltered underneath. After the eggs are laid, the adult dies, and the eggs eventually hatch a month or so later.

These insects rarely cause serious damage to dogwoods. You can try scraping eggs and adults off your plants or clipping away infested sections. Encourage beneficial predators like ladybugs, parasitoid wasps, and birds as these consume scale as part of their diets.

Disease

Our guide to common dogwood diseases covers in detail the potential issues you may face. Here’s a look at some of the diseases that commonly affect red twig dogwood plants.

Anthracnose

Dogwood anthracnose, aka Cornus anthracnose, is caused by the fungus Discula destructiva. And it’s a severe dogwood disease.

Light brown spots, sometimes with darker edges, first appear on leaves and flowers. Leaves eventually become dry and the blotches increase in size.

From the leaves, the infection can spread to shoots, branches, and stems where it causes cankers to form, which can girdle the branch and kill it.

Powdery Mildew

Powdery mildew is a disease caused by the fungus Erysiphe pulchra, formerly known as Microsphaera pulchra.

Common in dense, shady areas, this fungus can grow out of control as a result of poor air circulation and damp conditions.

It causes leaves to appear as if they are covered in a fine, white dust and often look scorched, dry, and discolored. Defoliation may occur in severe cases.

Most cases of powdery mildew appear in late summer, toward the end of the growing season. For this reason, many gardeners choose not to treat it as the leaves will begin to fall soon anyway.

Clean up and destroy affected fallen leaves and prune out dead or severely affected branches. Regular annual pruning encourages better air circulation between the branches.

If powdery mildew begins early in the season, you might consider using a fungicide, but to be effective, you need to apply it right away when you first notice symptoms.

You can learn more about how to manage powdery mildew in our guide.

Spot Anthracnose

Spot anthracnose is a fungal disease caused by Elsinoe corni. It usually appears after periods of high humidity or extended, frequent rainfall.

As the weather clears up, and things begin to dry out you’ll notice obvious signs.

Tiny brown to purplish spots appear on the flowers and the petals might begin to wrinkle and become distorted. The disease can then move to the leaves, the young shoots, and the fruits.

Serious infection rarely occurs, but if it does become severe or repeat the next year, it can stress the plant and weaken it.

Because the fungus can survive winters on plant material, trim away any affected areas and dispose of it in the trash. Consider treating with a fungicide if it becomes challenging to control over more than one season.

Best Uses for Red Twig Dogwoods

Red twig dogwoods are primarily valued for their unique ornamental features, offering colorful year-round visual interest in landscapes and gardens.

Smaller specimens can be planted in borders and all sizes can be used as focal points and accents.

They are a source of food for pollinators, birds, and other small mammals which makes them an ideal choice for land restoration projects and ecological refuge sites.

These shrubs are also helpful in the application of erosion control due to their fast-growing and suckering habits. This also makes them a favorite for hedging and mass plantings.

My absolute favorite reason for growing these plants is for their winter interest. I adore how the red stems stand out against snow and the contrast they offer to greenery arrangements.

Add assorted growth rates, bloom times, and disease resistance to the mix, and that choice becomes even harder.

To help you on this journey, you’ll need a guide. Not necessarily an old, wizened, and sage guide like Gandalf or Yoda, though. I’ll have to do, at least to start.

With this guide to 13 of the best flowering dogwood cultivars, we’ll be separating the wheat from the chaff, the cream from the non-creamy crop, the extraordinary from the extra ordinary.

At least, it reveals what I consider to be the 13 best. Everyone’s entitled to their opinion, right?

Here’s the lineup:

Before we begin, it’s important to know the sort of tree you want, along with where you intend on planting it.

And if you need a quick primer on flowering dogwoods and how to grow them, check out our article.

Also, I’ll be using the terms bloom/flower and bract pretty much interchangeably.

Even though they’re modified leaves rather than true flower petals, the leaf bracts of flowering dogwoods pretty much function as flowers, at least ornamentally.

Okay, time to talk trees! And shrubs, if we’re being technical.

1. Appalachian Spring

Since cultivars are either intentionally bred or accidentally discovered, they often have epic, superhero-esque origin stories. ‘Appalachian Spring’ is a perfect example.

In the 1970s, Discula destructiva – aka Discula or dogwood anthracnose – was discovered in the US after arriving from origins unknown.

Infecting and severely reducing native Cornus populations, this deadly disease was well on its way to dooming American dogwoods.

But all was not lost. In 1990, a certain C. florida specimen was found growing wild at Camp David on Catoctin Mountain in Maryland by the University of Tennessee’s Mark Windham.

Wielding a moderate to strong resistance to the D. destructiva fungus, this tree was used in the University’s dogwood breeding program to yield ‘Appalachian Spring’ – a fast-growing, white-bracted cultivar with larger-than-standard fruits, an upright habit, a height and spread of 20 to 30 feet, and an exceptionally strong resistance to Discula anthracnose.

If you’re looking for a heroically tough dogwood, ‘Appalachian Spring’ is the variety for you.

2. Cherokee Chief

A standard flowering dogwood has white flower bracts, each with a red notch at its apex.

Additionally, this tree boasts fantastic resistance to anthracnose – another impressive feat for foliage with variegation.

It has a vigorous growth rate and an upright habit that reaches mature heights and widths of 15 to 20 feet.

Come autumn, the leaf variegation becomes pinkish, while the greener parts of the foliage turn an impressive red.

4. Cherokee Princess

Another white-flowering variety, ‘Cherokee Princess’ is simply better than the standard. End of story.

Reaching heights and spreads of 25 feet, this one also features resistance against anthracnose, as well as a vigorous growth rate.

The leaves of this variety exhibit pinkish-red new growth before maturing to green with yellow-variegated margins, which have a similar resistance to scorching. In fall, the leaves turn pink to red to purple.

Don’t get me wrong, Cherokee Sunset™ truly stands out on its own. But with a Cherokee Sunset™ to go along with your Cherokee Daybreak™, you’ll have a one-two punch of vibrant variegation and beautiful blooms.

Reaching an itty-bitty mature size of four feet in height and width in eight to 10 years, the white-flowering ‘Compacta’ takes its sweet time to reach a compact size.

Its small frame makes it perfect for fitting into tight spots where other dogwoods may not fit.

If you’re the type of plant parent that thinks they grow up so fast – too fast – then raising ‘Compacta’ is the perfect match for your nurturing parenting style.

8. Plena

Technically, Plena, aka Alba Plena or “Pluribracteata,” is less of a specific cultivar, and more of a catch-all term for all the white flowering dogwoods with double to semi-double blooms. Yes, you read that right.

Reaching heights and spreads of 20 feet, Plena specimens exhibit up to eight bracts per flower, making each bloom look kinda rose-like.

And if that wasn’t enough, they also exhibit resistance to spot anthracnose. Good thing, too – otherwise, there’d be double the bracts for the disease to muck up.

Unfortunately, Plena specimens are fruitless. Or I suppose it’s fortunate, if you don’t want a bunch of woodland critters flocking to the drupes.

Creatures as large as deer and black bears may find the fruits tasty, so I wouldn’t blame you if this is a feature you opt for.

With a mature height and spread of 20 to 30 feet and beautiful, reddish-purple foliage in fall, ‘Spring Grove’ brings the aesthetics even when the fruits and flowers aren’t around.

11. Stellar

Back in the late 20th century, when dogwood anthracnose and dogwood borers were becoming significant problems, many smart horticulturalists worked tirelessly to find solutions.

Add a yellow sun and a blue sky to the scene, and presto, you’ve got ROY G. BIV!

Selected by Mark Welch in the 1920s and introduced by Cole Nursery in Ohio around 1930, this tree grows 20 to 30 feet in both height and width.

And while its variegation is top-notch, it unfortunately lacks the scorch resistance of the other variegated cultivars on our list. Remember that ‘Welchii’ definitely appreciates some shade.

13. Xanthocarpa

The final entry on our list, ‘Xanthocarpa’ carves out greatness in an area untouched by the other varieties: fruit color.

Measuring 15 to 20 feet tall and wide at maturity, ‘Xanthocarpa’ has yellow fruits, rather than the typical red ones.

This yellowness also extends to the foliage, which is tinged with a pretty yellow-green before turning a gorgeous reddish-purple in fall. The flowers are white.

In Ancient Greek mythology, golden apples had power. And in the landscape, yellow Cornus fruits wield a similar might, at least aesthetically.

And dogwoods don’t just add color to the garden. You can collect the stems and use them in floral arrangements indoors to liven up your interiors, too.

That would be enough to recommend them, in my book. But as an added bonus, they can be exceptionally beautiful during the warmer months as well.

In other words, they are truly the type of plants that offer four seasons of excitement in the landscape.

We’ll look at 15 exceptional options in more detail. Here’s the lineup:

All dogwoods perform better if you trim off some of the older stems to make room for the new growth, which tends to have brighter colors.

They also have the brightest hues when grown in full sun even though most can tolerate some shade.

You can learn more about growing dogwoods in our guide.

Without further ado, let’s start with a fiery option:

But as beautiful as the foliage is, you’ll be counting down the days until those leaves turn purple-red in the fall and drop to the ground so you can enjoy the vibrant red branches.

Just picture how much they will stand out against the winter snow in Zones 3 to 7.

This dwarf shrub stays at about six feet tall and wide at maturity, and while it will spread via suckers, it isn’t as prolific as some of its relatives.

9. Kesselringii

In garden design, you always want a few elements of dark black or brown to anchor an area. A Tartarian dogwood cultivar, C. alba ‘Kesselringii’ is just the thing for the job.

In the spring, summer, and fall, the dark red stems act as a dramatic focal point underneath the medium-green leaves.

But it’s even more dramatic when the stems turn dark purple in the winter, acting as a visual anchor whether your landscape tends towards greens and browns or snowy white.

This fast-growing shrub will reach six feet tall and wide within the first year after planting, and it’s decorated in yellowish blossoms in the spring and sometimes into the summer, as well.

In the fall, the foliage transitions to a beautiful burgundy hue.

This all-season pleaser is suited to a wide range of climates in Zones 2 to 7.

10. Pacific Dogwood

Okay, hear me out. Pacific dogwood (C. nuttalli) doesn’t have the bright yellow or red stems that make other species so popular in the winter landscape.

But don’t pass over this option if you live in Zones 7 to 9, where you might not have long periods of snow but you still crave some winter interest.

The white or pinkish-colored flowers are much showier than anything on this list, coming in at nearly three inches in diameter.

They appear once in the spring and again in the early fall, followed by orange or pink drupes that persist on the tree well into the winter until the wildlife devours them.

That’s part of what makes this 20- to 40-foot-tall tree an excellent display option in the dormant season.

Combined with the reddish bark and branches that take on a gracefully arching habit, it makes an architectural statement rather than a more colorful one.

11. Prairie Fire

Planted en masse, the aptly named C. alba ‘Prairie Fire’ looks like a field of flaming eight-foot-tall and wide shrubs highlighted against the winter snow.

But what makes it particularly special isn’t just the bright red winter twigs or the beautiful cream flowers, followed by white berries.

The bright golden and red fall foliage also sets it apart from many other dogwoods, which tend to be a little lackluster in the autumn.

In the spring, it’s equally attractive with its golden-yellow foliage. Grow it in Zones 2 to 7.

12. Red Osier

C. sericea adapts to climates in just about every part of the US except the warmer areas of Florida, Texas, California, and Arizona.

It can be grown in Zones 2 to 8, and is native to southern Canada, and the northern and western US.

Beloved for its red stems and vigorous growth habit, it can reach 10 feet tall and wide.

The oblong leaves are medium-green, with creamy-white blossoms and white berries. The fall foliage is bright red and orange.

Unlike the US native C. sericea, this species doesn’t tend to send out as many suckers – which may be a good or a bad thing, depending on your needs. It’s hardy in Zones 2 to 7.

14. Variegated Red Twig

A Tartarian dogwood cultivar, C. alba ‘Elegantissima’ is the definition of a year-round performer.

So strap yourself in, dear reader. We’ll be discussing how to cultivate these lovely plants and how to best use them in your landscape. We’ll also cover a handful of our favorite species.

Here’s what we’ll be getting into:

What Are Dogwoods?

Containing 57 currently recognized species of trees, shrubs, subshrubs, and even perennial ground covers, the Cornus genus is part of the Cornaceae family along with its sister genus Alangium.

Collectively hardy in USDA Zones 2 to 10, species of Cornus are distributed across the Northern Hemisphere in Asia, Europe, and North America.

In the United States, you can pretty much find a species of dogwood in any region of the country, save for the hottest and driest of climates.

Taxonomists have identified four clades within the genus: blue- or white-fruited types, big-bract types, dwarf types, and cornelian cherries, though these descriptions are seldom used by gardeners or horticulturalists.

The name Cornus comes from the Latin word cornu, meaning “hard” – a reference to the super dense and fine-grained wood of dogwood species.

Speaking of common Cornus characteristics, let’s go over what dogwoods generally look like.

Most species have simple, ovate, deciduous, and oppositely arranged leaves with parallel, arching leaf veins. A rich green or variegated during the growing season, these leaves tend to turn a deep burgundy red in fall.

Anytime from late winter to early summer, Cornus species bloom with flowers that have structures in fours: four lobes, four petals, and four stamens.

The flowers themselves aren’t all that showy, but they are encased in the middle of four to six petal-like leaf bracts that may be red, green, gold, yellow, pink, and/or white, depending on the species or cultivar.

When they’re in full bloom, dogwoods attract many pollinating insects, from bees to butterflies to moths. After pollination, the flowers give way to red, bluish-black, or white drupes, which attract hungry birds and mammals.

Along with spreading via seed dispersal, dogwood species can expand via underground rhizomes or even by rooting the tips of lower branches.

Dogwoods come in many different sizes, depending on the species.

Some, like the ground cover C. canadensis, top out at just four inches tall and spread pretty much indefinitely.

Others, like the red-stemmed C. sericea or its yellow-stemmed cultivars, are your moderately-sized, stereotypical shrubs. Other tree-like species can reach heights of 45 feet and spreads of 40 feet in cultivation!

Cultivation and History

Dogwoods have a rich history of cultivation, and the origin of the distinctly unique and interesting name can’t be said with a slam-dunk surety.

The name “dogwood” is thought to come from a colonial description of flowering dogwood fruits being edible, yet the taste not being fit for a dog. The hard, tough wood was also used for constructing skewers – i.e. “dogs” – so that could be the explanation, too. Take your pick!

The wood has been used across many cultures for constructing weapons, tool handles, loom shuttles, golf club heads, jeweler’s boxes, butcher blocks, and many other items that need to be able to withstand strong hits and high forces without taking damage.

Not all Cornus fruits are recommended for human consumption, but among those that are, some are quite tasty!

The cornelian cherry (C. mas) in particular has found some fame as the tastiest of the dogwood fruits, and is used in delicious sweet treats to this day.

It was also used back in Ancient Greece and Rome to dye fezzes, treat dysentery, and relieve gastrointestinal stress – and has even been mentioned in the literature of Homer and Ovid!

Many other species have had a variety of applications throughout history.

Extracts from the leaves of the Pagoda dogwood (C. alternifolia) have been used in traditional Chinese medicine as an analgesic, a diuretic, and a tonic.

Native Americans used parts of the flowering dogwood to treat colic and fevers, and even to make red dye. During the American Civil War, the tree’s leaves came in handy for making tea and as a substitute for quinine in compound tinctures.

And of course, dogwoods are beloved in the world of ornamental landscaping… that’s probably why you’re here, after all.

Dogwood Propagation

Many dogwood species can be grown from seed or propagated from cuttings.

You can also purchase nursery starts and saplings to transplant into the garden. Let’s go over these techniques, in order of descending difficulty.

But just as a reminder, there are a large number of different dogwoods out there, so the following tips are kept intentionally general.

From Seed

First things first: you’ll need seeds. Those can be bought from a reputable vendor, acquired from a friend, or even gathered yourself.

To gather seeds, you’ll first need to harvest the fruits they grow in, when they’re ripe. To ensure ripeness, only gather the fruits once they’ve dropped to the ground.

When you’ve gathered the fruits, you’ll need to mash them up to extract the seeds. You can do this by hand, with a mortar and pestle, or you can even use a blender.

Remove the seeds from the mashed fruits, set them on a strainer, and rinse off the pulp with water. You can also put the seeds in water, which will separate the pulp naturally. This will also separate viable seeds from non-viable ones, as the good seeds will sink and the duds will float.

You can either sow your Cornus seeds outdoors immediately in fall, or cold-stratify them before sowing in spring. To stratify, partially fill a plastic baggie with a 50:50 mix of peat moss and perlite, stick the seeds in, moisten the media, and leave the baggie in the fridge until spring.

Come spring, place the seeds half an inch deep in a seed tray filled with a similar peat/perlite mix, moisten the media, and set the container next to a sunny indoor window. Provide even moisture, but don’t allow the soil to become waterlogged.

When the seeds germinate and grow into seedlings, thin them out and/or repot them as needed to give them enough room to develop, all the while keeping the soil moist.

After they reach a suitable size – about three to four inches in height – they’ll be big enough to move outdoors.

When the final frost date passes, you’ll need to harden off the seedlings before transplanting. To do this, take the containers outside for 30 to 60 minutes before bringing them back inside.

Each subsequent day, add an additional half to full hour of outdoor time until they can spend a full day outdoors. From here, you can transplant!

From Cuttings

Anytime during the summer months, take four- to six-inch cuttings of softwood to semi-hardwood shoot tissue, depending on the species you are propagating.

Take these cuttings from the distal – or terminal – ends of shoots, and make your cuts with a sharp and sterile blade.

Keep the media moist as the cuttings take root. When the cuttings have rooted and grown a couple of new leaves, they will be ready to harden off like you would with seedlings before transplanting.

Via Transplanting

Before you transplant, ensure that your planting site has the proper exposure for your chosen species. Additionally, make sure that you’re transplanting into rich, loamy, and well-draining soil with a pH of 5.0 to 8.0.

Whether you’re transplanting a seedling, a rooted cutting, or a nursery start, ensure that your planting site provides enough room for the transplant to reach its mature height and spread without bumping into buildings, walkways, or other plants.

The best transplanting times are spring, after the last frost, and fall, a couple of weeks before your average first frost date.

Seedlings and rooted cuttings simply need a transplant hole that’s large enough to accomodate their root systems.

For container plants from the nursery, you’ll need to make the hole a bit wider than the containers they come in, so you have room to work.

Gently remove the plant from its container, and set it in the hole. Backfill with soil, and water in well.

Bare root specimens should be soaked in water for several hours before transplanting. Once it’s time, dig a hole, make a mound of soil at the bottom, and spread the roots out over it.

Alternate backfilling with watering until the hole is filled in, give it one final watering, and you’re done!

Adding a bit of organic matter like compost to the soil you backfill with can provide your soil with some extra fertility to get your transplants off to a good start.

For your baby transplants, really stay on top of watering until they become established in a year or two.

How to Grow Dogwoods

All the different dogwood species have a lot in common in terms of their growing needs. For catch-all Cornus cultivation, let’s go over what works.

Climate and Exposure Needs

If you’re anywhere in USDA Hardiness Zones 2 to 10, there’s a dogwood species for you – but not all Cornus species are suitable for all Zones.

In general, dogwoods thrive in full sun to partial shade, depending on the species, and some can tolerate full shade.

It’s all about finding that perfect balance between just enough sun to induce flowering, without scorching the leaves.

Soil Needs

Rich, well-draining loam with a pH of 5.0 to 8.0 should serve your specimens well as they grow and mature. You can conduct a soil test to check if the soil in your garden needs any specific amendments.

You may have to make some species-specific adjustments, but since dogwoods can generally handle most soils as long as they aren’t bone-dry or soggy, don’t sweat this too much.

Regular amendments of organic matter help keep soil rich, so work one to two inches of compost or well-rotted manure into your plants’ root zones every spring.

Water and Fertilizer Needs

Many Cornus species prefer a soil that’s kept moist, at least most of the time.

So be sure to water whenever the top few inches dry out, in the absence of rain, and definitely whenever you can’t reach moist soil with a soil knife.

Usually, supplemental fertilizer isn’t necessary if you keep on top of your humus amendments every spring. But if your soil is especially poor, you can apply a balanced 10-10-10 (NPK) fertilizer in spring.

Growing Tips

• Provide full sun to partial shade.
• Make annual amendments of humus in spring.
• If you keep with humus amendments, then supplemental fertilizer shouldn’t be necessary.

Pruning and Maintenance

Some species put out suckers at their base, which should be pruned ASAP to keep up appearances. You should also remove dead, diseased, or dying branches whenever you happen to notice them.

As for dedicated sessions of pruning that shape your plant’s form and increase airflow, those should be done in spring, just before bud break.

Depending on the type of dogwood, you may not shape the plant at all, but rather opt for the “au naturel” look.

Fallen leaves should be raked up after they drop, unless you’ve got a woodland garden going. And always maintain a two- to four-inch layer of mulch over the root zone – that’ll suppress weed growth, conserve moisture, protect the roots, and just look real purty.

In winter, you can cease your watering while the ground is frozen.

Dogwood Species to Select

With 57 Cornus species to consider, you’re spoilt for choice! Are you looking for a tree, a shrub, or maybe some ground cover?

You really can’t go wrong with a Cornus, and if you want to read more about the different types of dogwood, check out our guide to 23 of the best varieties.

Let’s go over some top-tier species: 

A native of east Asia, Greenland, and northern North America, the creeping dogwood is hardy in USDA Zones 2 to 6 – the colder, the better.

Reaching a height of three to nine inches, this plant has the potential to spread indefinitely via its creeping rhizomes, albeit very slowly.

Blooming in late spring to early summer, the clusters of true flowers are green and discreet, but they’re surrounded by four white flower bracts, which are quite showy. Later, the flowers give way to small, scarlet-red berries, which will delight the birds.

Reaching heights of 15 to 40 feet and spreads of 10 to 25 feet, this tree has spring-blooming flowers with six white leaf bracts and fruits that look like a cross between those of C. florida and C. kousa.

If you’re jonesing for a flowering dogwood yet live in the western US, then C. nuttallii is the one for you.

Consider this the Achilles heel that makes these otherwise perfect plants imperfect.

In general, there are a bunch of tips and tricks for keeping problems at bay. Two of the smartest things you can do are cultivating your dogwood properly and sanitizing your tools between pruning different specimens.

Thankfully, these trees are deer-resistant. But there are many other pests that can wreck a dogwood.

You’ve got your all-too-common aphids, scale, and mealybugs, as well as the dogwood-specific borers, club gall midges, and sawflies.

Mammal-wise, you may deal with hungry chipmunks, raccoons, and even black-bears – if they are common in your region!

You’ll have plenty of potential problems on the disease front, too. Powdery mildew, Discula anthracnose, and root rots are but a few of the diseases you may have to deal with.

You can learn more about dogwood diseases and how to treat them in our guide.

Best Uses for Dogwoods

Individually, species of dogwoods are more suitable for certain landscape situations than others. But when unified as the Cornus genus, there’s not much they can’t do.

If you need a plant for establishing a border, placing along a home foundation, grouping in a cluster, adding to a native garden, attracting wildlife, growing under a canopy as an understory planting, or displaying as a specimen… don’t worry. There’s a dogwood for the job.