Tag: Begonias

Begonia leaves might curl up or down, horizontally, or vertically along the center, as a result of some kind of stressor.

In this guide, we’ll chat about what causes this type of abnormal leaf growth and what you can do about it, whether it’s affecting a pretty wax type in your garden or a striking angel-wing houseplant that’s got curling leaves.

Here’s what I’ll cover:

If you’re not sure whether your specimen is a type that is supposed to have curling leaves, read our guide to classifying begonias using the leaves and stems.

The first problem we’ll look at is one caused by caring too much. Yes, it’s possible to be an overly attentive plant parent.

1. Excess Fertilizer

Whether you’re growing your begonias inside or out, they all need mild, balanced, all-purpose fertilizer.

When the plants receive too much food, salts can build up in the soil and the begonias may react by twisting and curling the leaves upwards, among other symptoms.

Outdoor flowering plants should be fertilized once a month, starting just before they flower and continuing until they are finished blooming.

Maybe your soil is naturally rich in potassium and here you are adding extra on top of that, for example.

Many plants will simply not absorb more than they need, but when there’s far too much, it can burn the roots and cause curled leaves.

2. Herbicide Injury

If you’re growing your begonias outdoors and you notice curling leaves, look at other nearby plants of different species.

Do they have curled leaves, too? Or perhaps their foliage is wilting and yellowing? If so, it’s highly probable that they’ve suffered herbicide injury.

Even if you didn’t apply herbicides in your own garden, it’s possible that some wafted over from a neighbor or maybe your local government applied herbicides to public areas nearby. Or perhaps you recently treated your lawn?

You might wonder if what you are seeing is a result of a pest or disease issue. Typically, specific pests or diseases stick to plants in the same genus or family.

Powdery mildew in legumes, for example, is caused by Microsphaera diffusa while in begonias it’s caused by Oidium begoniae.

But if totally unrelated species are symptomatic, the cause is usually something else like a watering issue or herbicide damage.

So, if your begonias and nearby hostas are both showing symptoms of leaf curl, it’s probably not a pest or disease issue since the plants are from different genera.

If you suspect herbicides are the problem, there’s not much to do except find where they came from and stop it from happening again.

3. Mealybugs or Scale

Sapsuckers like mealybugs and scale cause stress to the begonia, and this stress can result in curling leaves.

Both scale and mealybugs are fairly easy to identify once you know what to look for. Both are oval and flat, and either brown, tan, black, or white with a waxy coating.

They like to hang out on the stems and at the leaf joints, so look closely in those areas.

These pests don’t move much, and they tend to cluster together, so people sometimes mistake them for symptoms of a disease.

But try scraping them off and squishing them –if they come off easily or they can be smashed, they are bugs, not symptoms of a disease. I know, gross.

If scale or mealybugs are the cause of the leaf curl, you can simply scrape them off the plant using a butter knife or dab them with a cotton swab dipped in isopropyl alcohol.

4. Mites

Broad, tropical, or begonia mites (Polyphagotarsonemus latus) are an invisible monster. They’re about 0.02 millimeters in length, so you won’t be able to see them with the naked eye.

These pests thrive in the same conditions as begonias, namely warm and humid. You’ll find them all over in greenhouses and tropical areas and they feed on many warm-weather species.

When the mites feed on the plant, they cause the terminal leaves to curl and roll. They can also cause deformed buds and stunted growth.

You can get out a magnifying glass and examine the begonias closely to try and see the mites.

Most commonly cultivated begonias do best when the soil is kept consistently moist and not allowed to dry out completely or get too wet.

Usually, over- or underwatering once or twice isn’t the end of the world, but if it happens repeatedly, it really starts to stress the plant and can cause leaf curling and stunted growth.

Guess what the solution is? Give your plants the right amount of water!

If you grab a bit of soil and roll it in your hand, it should just hold together for a minute before it falls apart. If it crumbles immediately, it’s too dry. If it sticks together and water squeezes out, it’s too wet.

It’s easier for me to just envision the texture of a well-wrung-out sponge. That’s what the soil should feel like.

6. Overwatering

As with excess fertilizer, overwatering is a helicopter plant-parent problem. It’s more commonly seen in potted plants, but it can happen with plants in the ground, as well.

Overwatering once won’t cause too much trouble. But when it happens over and over, the leaves on your begonias might start to curl and turn brown.

This happens because the roots underground are essentially drowning. They can’t access enough oxygen and the whole plant is stressed.

Reduce the amount of water you’re offering by half and give the plant some time to recover.

If your plants are growing in containers, check to make sure the soil is draining well and the drainage holes aren’t clogged.

If they are growing in the ground, consider how much water you’re providing based on how well your soil drains. You shouldn’t be adding water more frequently if the soil isn’t draining sufficiently.

7. Viruses

Many viruses attack begonias. Impatiens necrotic spot (INSV), tobacco ringspot (TRSV), broad bean wilt (BBWV), cucumber mosaic (CMV), tobacco necrosis virus (TNV) are all possibilities.

All of them cause discoloration and malformed growth that can include curled leaves. Look for angular yellow patches, distorted growth, and curled leaves.

Don’t worry about the specifics. It doesn’t really matter which virus your plant is infected with.

If it’s sick, the only thing you can do is toss it. Otherwise, you risk the virus spreading to other specimens via insects like aphids and thrips, and these viruses attack many, many species. Plus, there is no cure.

Okay, so you probably won’t go on a world-round wander anytime soon, but even if you’re just shopping at your local nursery, it can still be next to impossible to identify the various begonias out there if you aren’t some sort of expert.

Heck, even the experts struggle.

Is this one of those wax hybrids with big blossoms? Or is this the kind that doesn’t flower well but has gorgeous foliage? Maybe it’s both?

We’re going to help you figure out how to identify begonias based on a few key characteristics.

After examining the foliage and stems, you’ll be able to confidently narrow down what you’re looking at, no expert knowledge required.

Here’s what we’ll discuss to help make that happen:

While the characteristics of the flowers and leaves are the most obvious things we can look at on a plant, the stems and roots can give us an even better idea of the species of begonia.

We can use all four elements to make an educated guess about the identity of a particular plant.

Though they vary wildly in appearance, all begonias have alternate leaves with stipules, which are tiny structures that grow at the base of a leafstalk.

They all have separate female and male flowers, plus some other qualities that only botanists will really care about, like inferior ovaries and centripetal stamen initiation.

Most commonly cultivated varieties have asymmetrical leaves, fleshy stems, and fairly prominent flowers. But there are exceptions. B. bogneri looks more like grass, for example, and you might not even notice the flowers.

Don’t worry, you don’t have to memorize all this! The important thing is to be able to take a look at the leaves, stems, and flowers, plus the roots, if you can.

Begonias are actually classified by the American Begonia Society by the kind of roots they have: fibrous, tuberous, or rhizomatous. Of course, all types have some fibrous roots, but this category refers to those that solely have fibrous roots.

Let’s talk about that group first. Then, we’ll talk about the different leaves you might come across and how to categorize them.

Fibrous Rooted

Fibrous-rooted begonias have purely fibrous roots without any tuberous or rhizomatous roots.

But you don’t need to dig up the plant and examine the roots to determine if that’s what you’re looking at. There are other clues.

Look at the stems and leaves for a hint.

If your plant has stems that look kind of like bamboo, meaning they are straight, have long internodes, and have little bumps where the leaves emerge from, you have a cane-like type.

Cane-Like

Cane-like begonias have become much more popular in recent years. I think that has to be because they’re easygoing, and many have eye-catching foliage.

Obviously, this group stands apart because of its cane-like stems that give it some resemblance to bamboo. Beyond the cane-like stems, you can look to the leaves to help define this group.

Most of the cane-like types on the commercial market have some amount of silver spotting on the top surface and purple on the underside, with most having some purple on the upper side of the leaves as well.

The leaves emerge from a swollen node on the stem, another characteristic that lends to the bamboo-like resemblance.

For example, angel-wing begonias like the wildly popular B. maculata, with its long leaves speckled in shiny silver dots, are in this group.

If you see the characteristic angel-wing leaf shape, it’s probably in the cane-like group, though many rex types have this as well.

Within this group, there are three types: ‘Lenore Olivier,’ mallet, and Superba. There are around 80 species and thousands of cultivars in the cane-like group.

Most of them are grown for the foliage, but some have large cascading clusters of pink, red, white, or orange blossoms.

There should be lots of them, rather than a single or small number of stems. Those stems should also have lots of branches.

Because the foliage is so diverse, this group is subdivided by leaf type. These groups are:

• Bare
• Distinctive
• Hairy
• Miniature

Bare types are hairless (glabrous). Hairy, of course, have fine hairs on either or both sides. Miniatures have tiny leaves on correspondingly small plants.

Distinctive is kind of a catch-all group for the plants that have unusual or uniquely interesting leaves, like heavily lobed, palmate shapes.

The shrub group is primarily grown for the foliar display, but some have pretty, long-lasting flowers, usually in white but sometimes pink or red.

Examine the growth of B. metallica, as pictured above, to get a good idea of what they look like.

Thick-Stemmed

This group is identified by, of course, the thick stems, but also the leaf growth.

As the stems age, all the lower leaves drop off, leaving just those at the tip of the stems. The foliage can look like that of those in any other group.

Leaves can be waxy, hairy, velvety, or smooth, and smooth-edged, toothed, or lobed. They can be green, bronze, red, or purple, and might have silvery markings.

Common hybrid cultivars and species include B. ‘Bangles,’ B. egregia, B. ludwigii, B. rigida, B. ‘Rudy,’ B. venosa and B. vitifolia.

These are some of the most difficult types to grow because they’re picky about their conditions, so you don’t see a lot of them.

While you can pinch them to encourage branching, they typically only produce one or two stems with no branches, which makes them less visually appealing to some growers. That’s another reason why they aren’t common.

Trailing-Scandent

As you may have gathered, this group is defined by its trailing, arching growth habit.

Some can be trained as climbers and some will trail over a wall or pot. Many have beautiful flowers, though others are grown for their foliage alone.

The leaves are typically round, heart-shaped, or oval, with smooth or toothed margins.

The surface can be smooth or hairy, and it might have raised areas. Most have relatively small leaves. The flowers are usually pink or red.

B. convolvulacea, B. glabra, B. molleri, B. radicans, B. solananthera, B. thelmae, and their hybrids are the most common types.

Rhizomatous

If you were to dig down just below the soil surface and do some exploring, you’d find succulent, horizontal roots for all of the begonias in this group.

These rhizomes are actually an extension of the stems of the plant growing underground.

Rex-Cultorum

This is, by far, the most common type of rhizomatous begonia. These can be identified by looking at the foliage.

It’s colorful with green, purple, red, silver, or any combination of these. They can also have reflective silver markings.

This type can be confused with cane-like begonias, and the only way to be certain is to look at the roots.

Most of these are cultivars of B. rex, of which there are over 4,000, but there are lots of hybrids, too. These are grown for their foliage and not so much for the blooms, which are small and lack color compared to many others.

Learn about growing rex begonias in our guide.

Upright Jointed

The plants in this subgroup might be mistaken for cane-like types at first glance. Beyond the different roots, these plants tend to branch out more than the cane-like types.

Look at B. diadema for a good example.

Tuberous

Tuberous begonias form large tubers as a storage mechanism to get them through the dry season. These are typically grown for the large flowers.

Now, don’t confuse ”tuberous begonias” (B. x tuberhybrida) with those that have tuberous roots.

Tuberous begonia is the common name for tuberous hybrids, but there are many species that have tuberous roots as well.

The × tuberhybrida members of this group have the largest blossoms of all begonias, as well as the biggest range of flower colors and patterns.

They’re some of the most popular types, and you can read all about them in our guide to growing tuberous begonias.

The foliage is typically large and round. The leaves are dark to medium green on the upper surface and lighter green on the underside, with or without red veins.

Of course, there are variations, with some with toothed or lobed margins, but that’s the most common.

Augustia

There are 12 species from tropical East Africa in this group, all with tuberous roots.

B. dregei and B. sutherlandii are the most common in cultivation.

B. dregei has green foliage with some amount of red or purple, and plants might have white or silver spots. B. sutherlandii features pale green foliage with pink or red-tinged veins or edges.

Bolivian

B. boliviensis, known as Bolivian begonia, has leaves with a dark green surface and paler green undersides, both with fine hairs.

They can be lanceolate to ovate and are always asymmetrical. Some have a toothed margin.

These plants have a pendulous growth habit and vibrant red flowers.

Elatior

Also known as Cheimantha, Hiemalis, or Reiger, this subgroup is made up of tuberous hybrids, and it’s kind of a catch-all for those that don’t fit in other groups.

Many have B. dregei, B. grandis, B. x semperflorens, or B. socotrana in their lineage.

Many are winter flowering and have masses of pink, salmon, or red blossoms. You’ll often find them sold as holiday, Christmas, or yule begonias.

Identifying Begonias by Their Leaves

You absolutely can not identify a begonia by the leaves alone. There are just too many species with similar-looking leaves. But they are a good place to start your investigation.

Note the most defining characteristic of the foliage and go from there.

Waxy Texture

Plants with thick, waxy leaves are usually wax types. It’s right there in the name, after all.

Less commonly, they can also be rhizomatous species or cultivars, or thick-stemmed fibrous types. Assume it’s a wax begonia unless there is some other indication that hints otherwise.

Silvery Spots, Stripes, or Marks

Those with silvery markings are usually either fibrous cane-like or thick-stemmed types, or rhizomatous rex.

Tuberous augustia types can also have these markings.

Angel Wing Shape

Some have leaves that look like the angel wings depicted in classic paintings by Michelangelo Caravaggio, Raphael, Vernet, and Thayer.

The leaves typically appear singly, so you have to imagine that the poor angel lost one wing somewhere along the way.

If yours has this leaf shape and it’s attached to a cane-like stem, you can be sure you have a rhizomatous, cane-like type.

Many are hybrids or cultivars of B. aconitifolia, B. coccinea, B. listadaand, or B. maculata, to name a few.

Fern-Like Leaves

There are a few types out there that look a bit like ferns. Fern begonia (B. bipinnatifida) is, by far, the most common.

Given its adoration for hot, humid environments, it has gained a stellar reputation as a terrarium plant.

This rhizomatous type has fleshy green and maroon leaves.

Strappy Leaves

Not all begonias have wide leaves. Some are narrow and strappy, resembling those of lilies or even grass.

B. herbacea and B. lanceolata are rhizomatous, and often confused with one another, while B. komoensis and B. bogneri have tubers.

Peltate Leaves

Some begonias have leaves that look like little umbrellas, with the petiole attached to the underside of the leaf somewhere near the middle.

These include the rhizomatous B. leprosae, with its hairless, asymmetrical green leaves and small flowers, as well as B. sudjanae with its light green, hairy asymmetrical foliage.

I circled back to angel-wing begonias a couple of years ago when seeking familiar comforts during lockdown. I purchased them from the same South Knoxville greenhouse Fran’s plant came from.

Hers, mine, and the many other types of angel-wing begonia are outright beauties, especially when you pay attention to their growing requirements. You may wish to cultivate them indoors or outdoors or combine the two approaches.

The common name “angel-wing begonia” is used fairly loosely, creating a bit of a gray area on exactly which plants fall into the category.

I’ll explain more about the classification, including the instances when you want to differentiate among varieties and when it’s cool not to bother with distinctions.

I’ll also share a host of tips on growing and caring for these heavenly begonias.

Here’s what you can expect:

What Are Angel-Wing Begonias?

Angel-wing is the common name for a few different begonias.

Botanical species usually accepted as being in the “angel-wing” category include B. coccinea, B. corallina, and B. dietrichiana.

Common traits include sturdy, upright stems with nodes that make them look a bit like slender bamboo, asymmetrical, wing-shaped leaves, and clusters of pink, white, or red flowers borne on the canes.

The different species grow to between one and six feet tall, though they usually top out at about two to three feet.

Most varieties have light dots or streaks atop their leaves, often with red undersides.

The species B. dietrichiana is known as the “heirloom” angel-wing begonia, and it has smooth green leaves without markings.

Some folks refer to all cane-like begonias as angel-wings, but cane types often have rounded, elongated, or star-shaped leaves.

You may also hear the popular polka dot plant, B. maculata, called “angel-wing,” and it mostly fits with this classification.

Polka dot plants grow thicker canes and waxier leaves than most cane begonias, though, and have larger polka dots than the other species in this grouping.

They don’t flower as consistently as the others, either. They usually bloom only in spring or summer, if then – as opposed to throughout the year. And their blooms are white and tiny, not pink or red.

Just be aware that while polka dot plants and other angel-wing begonias both need well-draining soil and infrequent, deep watering, B. maculata plants are pickier about light and humidity.

Instead of medium light, they’ll need bright, indirect light.

Dragon wing begonias (B. x hybrida) are also sometimes called angel-wings. These plants are a hybrid of B. coccinea and B. semperens, the everblooming wax begonia.

Dragon wings are more compact than other cane-like varieties, with smaller leaves.

I’m not going to talk about the dragon wings in this guide since they are usually considered a separate variety by growers and breeders alike. And as relatively recent hybrids, their growing needs are a bit different.

All the varieties we’ll discuss in this guide have fibrous roots and are easy to start from cuttings.

You can grow these evergreen plants outdoors as perennials only in USDA Hardiness Zones 10 to 11, but they make beautiful houseplants that bloom year-round with proper care.

You can also enjoy them as garden or hanging basket annuals in cooler growing zones and then toss them in the fall. To me it seems like a waste to trash them at the season’s end.

As I mentioned earlier, there are times when it’s important to differentiate between a cane-like angel-wing begonia and other species that look sort of similar.

Hardy begonias, B. grandis, are one example. They have rounded, paisley-shaped leaves that look like wings if you try hard to convince yourself, and they produce flowers similar to many angel-wing types.

The reason you don’t want to accidentally end up with a hardy type when you’re seeking a cane type is that hardy types are not evergreens, so they lose their leaves when the weather gets cold.

Next are the foliage-first rex begonias, B. x rex cultorum. Many of those patterned cultivars have wing shaped-leaves.

I included a photo of one of my “painted leaf” rex begonias above to show you how easy it would be to think they were angel-wings.

But the rex types are a bit fussier than the cane types, especially when you try to grow them outdoors, and the growing requirements differ somewhat.

Most B. x rex cultorum cultivars sprout leaves from rhizomes, for example, so they need to be positioned with the rhizome half buried in the soil, not planted with the crown at the soil surface like cane varieties.

The lack of canes makes colorful rex begonias more difficult to propagate, too, so they’re not as easy to share as the typical B. corallina or B. coccinea, either.

You’ll find plenty to recommend rex begonia cultivation in our guide.

Ahead of the growing information, let’s take a minute to learn about the background of the graceful, cheerful angel-wing begonia.

Cultivation and History

Angel-wing begonias are part of the cane-like grouping determined by the American Begonia Society. Most of the cane-like species are native to parts of Brazil.

They are all classified within the Begonia genus Franciscan monk and botanist Charles Plumier first described more than four centuries ago, in 1700.

Europeans fell in love with these types of plants quickly, and identified 200 species between 1700 and 1850, and begonias have been popular with flower and indoor gardeners to some degree ever since.

Many begonias, including the cane types, are easily hybridized, and even amateur breeders have successfully introduced new begonia cultivars.

One of the earliest recognizable cultivars was introduced by a Swiss nurseryman in 1892 and is known as B. corallina ‘De Lucerne’ or B. ‘Lucerne.’

It has olive leaves with silver flecks and is a parent plant for many of the varieties popular today.

‘Lucerne’ plants are pretty hard to find at ordinary nurseries in the US but still have their devotees.

According to the American Begonia Society, as more begonias with wing-shaped leaves came on the scene, they too picked up the name angel-wing, even if they were shrubby or trailing, not cane types.

As the years went by and the name started being used indiscriminately, many hybridizers and home growers stopped using it altogether.

Another subgroup of cane types, the Superbas, has many members classified as angel-wings.

A home hybridizer, Eva Kenworthy Gray, pioneered the Superbas. She began crossing fibrous begonia varieties in the 1920s in California.

In 1926, she crossed a Brazilian variety, B. aconitifolia, with a B. coccinea ‘Lucerne’ from a private collection.

The cross resulted in a cane-like variety featuring deep toothed margins and delicate silver markings on large, asymmetrical leaves. The begonia world took note, and other Superba hybrids followed.

They included a cross of ‘Lenore Olivier’ and ‘Kentwood,’ from Gray’s fellow Californian, Irene Nuss.

The resulting cultivar, named ‘Irene Nuss’ has large, deeply frilled bronzed leaves, upright canes, and numerous clusters of oversized pink flowers.

‘Irene Nuss’ won a Royal Horticultural Society’s Award of Garden Merit in 1971 and it has remained popular among Superba fans ever since.

Now that you’ve seen some of the possibilities, let’s talk about how to propagate these plants.

Angel-Wing Begonia Propagation

One of the great joys of owning an angel-wing begonia is being able to root cuttings from it almost at will.

With the ease of that approach, it’s unappealing to try to grow these varieties from seed unless you can find pelleted seeds from a reputable dealer or plant breeder.

Hybrids produce seeds that won’t grow true to the parent plant, and they may be sterile.

Species plants may produce seeds, but they are quite tiny and difficult to work with indoors – you’d need a magnifying glass and at least two people to try.

It’s not feasible to directly sow them in the garden, either – they simply disappear.

With that said, if you luck out on pelleted seeds, sow them indoors eight to 10 weeks ahead of your average last frost date in Zones with cold winters.

You can find step-by-step instructions for starting seeds indoors in our guide, but take into account begonia seeds need light to germinate.

You can also plant pelleted seeds outdoors in Zones 10 to 11.

As for taking cuttings, this is an easy propagation method as they take just a few weeks to root.

You can propagate cane cuttings at any time of year.

Be sure the parent plant is healthy and large enough to lose a few stems and still have at least two-thirds of its foliage remaining, to allow for photosynthesis.

I like to root a couple of canes simultaneously to increase the odds that at least one will succeed, and to have some to share.

Ordinarily I’ll root each stem in its own pot or glass of water so the roots don’t get entangled, but you can propagate several together and then transplant them en masse to grow together if you prefer.

Choose healthy stems that have at least two nodes. Cut a segment about four inches long using sterile scissors or a paring knife.

Pinch off all but the top two sets of leaves.

At this point, you may want to dip the bottom of the clipped stem in rooting hormone to hasten root development. This step isn’t critical, though it will increase your chances of success.

Next, stick the bottom of the stem into a cell, tray, or shallow pot of pre-moistened, well-drained potting mix.

Set the container in a protected spot that receives six hours or more of bright, indirect light without direct sun.

Keep the soil moist with a spray bottle of tepid water, being careful not to get the soil too soggy.

You can also root cuttings in a small glass of water. Make sure the nodes are below the water line, while the leaves stay above it.

Every couple of days, change out the water to prevent rotting.

When the roots are an inch long, you can plant the starts in containers or directly into a raised bed or garden after hardening off the seedlings.

Directions for transplanting are coming right up.

Transplanting

Even the healthiest starts need a bit of TLC at transplant time. Here are the basics:

Outdoors

If you live in Zones 10 to 11 or wish to grow angel-wings as annual bedding plants in Zones 3 to 9, you can transplant store-bought starts or rooted canes directly into a garden or raised bed in spring.

First, it’s advisable to test the soil and amend it as necessary. These plants like a pH of 5.5 to 6.5.

Adding plenty of organic matter will improve drainage, and spacing the plants about 30 inches apart will allow room for air to circulate.

Use a trowel or spade to dig a hole as deep as the current container, and a few inches wider.

Ease each transplant out of its cell or container and set it in the hole so the bottom of the cane is even with the soil surface.

Backfill with well-draining soil.

Water the transplants thoroughly, making sure the soil drains well. Then be extra attentive to keeping the soil consistently moist for the next four to six weeks, until the plants are well-established and can tolerate the occasional dry spell.

Indoors

For my money, containers are the way to go if you live in a cooler climate.

I reason that you’ll need to overwinter the plants indoors, so they’ll need pots and fresh potting mix in late summer regardless.

It’s simpler just to grow them in containers full-time if you live where winters are cold and avoid the stress involved in uprooting bedding plants and getting them acclimated to living in a pot.

Choose a pot with drainage holes that is lightweight for easy toting. If you’re repurposing a container, be sure to wash it first and always use fresh potting mix.

It’s ever so easy to transfer water molds and fungi when you use old soil for a new plant, especially if the former occupant of that pot succumbed to a disease.

The planter should be two or three inches wider than the start or the grower’s pot you’ve purchased.

Fill it with a humus-rich potting mix that’s well-draining and formulated for ornamental indoor plants.

Leave at least an inch between the top of the potting mix and the rim of the planter so the contents won’t spill out when you water.

Find more tips on choosing containers in our guide.

Remove each start from its current pot, tray, or cell by turning the container on its side, then easing the plant out with your fingers, holding the base of the stem and tugging gently.

If you rooted a cutting in water, pull the start up by its stem base, not the leaves.

Create a hole that’s the same depth as the fibrous roots and two inches wider in diameter than the foliage.

Center the start in the hole, backfill with more of the growing medium, and water thoroughly.

From there, get ready to enjoy an indoor flowering plant that’s fast-growing and easy to care for.

How to Grow Angel-Wing Begonias

Angel-wing begonias will reward the effort if you take the time to provide their optimal growing conditions. Here are the basic considerations:

Location

Outdoors, this type of begonia needs well-draining, nutrient rich soil and a part shade exposure.

It can even grow and flower in full shade, but it will have fewer blooms and typically won’t be as full or tall as the ones planted where they receive morning sun and afternoon shade.

If you live in Zones 10 to 11, you can plant them in the ground. Remember the canes can grow several feet tall, so avoid areas prone to high winds that could knock them over.

In Zones 9 or lower, they can’t grow outdoors full-time and will need a suitable indoor location for at least part of the year.

When considering where to place them, remember all begonias contain insoluble calcium oxalates that can cause reactions including vomiting or salivation when a cat or dog ingests a piece.

Keep the plants on a high shelf, or somewhere else out of reach of inquisitive or foolhardy pets.

I like the top of my fridge as an option, since the kitchen offers ample humidity and the appliance sits in front of a sliding glass door that receives morning light.

Oh, and, even the extra-inquisitive cat won’t climb up there.

Call your veterinarian if your pet samples any part of the plant. The toxic reaction is less of an issue for human kids since biting into a leaf creates an odd taste and unpleasant sensation immediately.

Light

Whether you’re planning to grow angel-wing begonias indoors all year or merely move them inside when it’s cold out, plan to provide a spot with bright to medium-bright light without exposing the leaves to direct sunlight.

It may sound odd that these plants can grow in substantial shade outdoors but need plentiful indirect light indoors, but that’s the way it is.

If you don’t have a space at least a couple of feet from a sunny window available, try using grow lights to provide the necessary illumination.

Temperature

Not too hot, not too cold… the just-right temperature is 70 to 75°F by day and around 60°F at night.

Temperatures between 50 to 60°F may slow growth and blooming, and those over 85°F can stress the plant and cause it to lose leaves or stop flowering.

Of course, it’s tough to control Mother Nature outdoors, but you can use a shade cloth if the heat index is soaring or move container plants inside for a few days.

Inside it’s entirely possible to grow angel-wing begonias in a spot away from drafts and where temperatures don’t fluctuate by more than a few degrees during the day or overnight.

Water

Once plants are established and have acclimated to their growing environment, you’ll need to water them thoroughly, but only when the soil dries out.

These are not the type of plants that respond well to dribs and drabs of water as you pass by, so restrain yourself if you’ve been known to overwater houseplants in the past.

Instead of setting a schedule, water when the top inch or two of the soil is dry. You can determine the moisture level with a moisture meter or by jabbing your pinkie into the edge of the potting mix.

In winter, they usually need less frequent watering, but let the soil be your guide.

Always water the plants until you see water coming out of the bottom drainage holes, using room temperature or tepid water.

I prefer bottom watering, which you can learn more about in our guide.

If you don’t bottom water, make sure to pour water on the soil surface, not over the top of the leaves.

Watering cans are cute, but when you allow water to drip onto the leaf surfaces, they can’t always dry readily, and it might encourage diseases or stem rot.

Let the plants drain into a saucer below for at least 15 minutes after a watering session, and then discard the excess. All begonias loathe wet feet.

Humidity

Begonias thrive in a humidity level of at least 40 percent and as much as 60 percent, but may do okay with slightly less or slightly more.

A good rule of thumb: keep an eye on the foliage. If the leaves start to turn brown at the tips the plants likely need a humidity boost.

Usually, a pebble tray with water beneath the bottom of the pot will work, though if the air is particularly dry in your home, you may want to invest in a humidifier.

Fertilizer

Angel-wing begonias benefit from regular fertilizing when they are actively growing.

About once a month during the spring and summer, apply a liquid 20-20-20 (NPK) fertilizer diluted to half the strength recommended by the manufacturer.

Hold off during fall and winter, and resume again once the plants enter prime growing season in the spring.

For more tips and techniques on growing begonias as houseplants, see our guide.

Growing Tips

• Grow in part shade outdoors and bright to moderate indirect light inside.
• Water thoroughly when the top inch or two of soil is dry.
• From spring to early fall, fertilize once a month with a liquid 20-20-20 fertilizer diluted to half the recommended strength.
• Indoors, maintain daytime temperatures of 70 to 75°F and 60°F at night.

Pruning and Maintenance

Cane begonia varieties can live up to six years before becoming weak and spindly and ready for the compost.

You can promote their health and beauty over the long haul with a few maintenance chores.

First, consistently deadhead the spent blooms, especially on plants grown indoors. Remove any dead leaves or stems that fall on the soil, too, to prevent fungal diseases.

Second, carefully time when you move indoor/outdoor plants to a new locale.

Set text reminders, or use a gardening journal, and watch the weather forecast. These beauties will repay the vigilance!

These ornamentals must come inside ahead of nighttime temperatures falling below 50°F and not go out again until all threat of frost has passed and the weather is reliably 60°F or warmer.

Make the move gradually in the spring so your begonias can get used to the unfamiliar environment. Start by placing the plants outdoors for a few hours on the first day and an extra hour or two on the subsequent three days.

If you move them outdoors suddenly, they may become stressed by the light and temperature fluctuations and drop leaves, stop growing or blooming, or even die back.

As part of your maintenance, it’s a good idea to prune gangly plants on occasion.

Starting when they’re about a year old, trim back the top six inches of the canes in early winter and again in spring. You can also shape the plants or limit their height by trimming off the ends more often.

You’ll eventually need to re-pot them too, but don’t rush. They prefer to be a bit potbound and usually only need a new home once every two or three years.

Move them to a container just two inches wider than their previous home, and consider starting a few cuttings when you do.

The calcium oxalates they produce make the foliage taste bad, but if deer persist, they’ll usually go for smaller specimens they can easily uproot.

Rabbits, too, are known to avoid the sharp taste of the leaves. But that claim mostly applies to full-grown rabbits since the youngsters don’t have the experience to notice the discouraging taste as quickly.

For them, you may place pots out of reach and use row covers to protect tiny, tender starts early in the spring.

As for insect pests, none of them are particularly fond of angel-wing begonias, but they may infest outdoor plants or jump over to begonias from other infected house or bedding plants.

The best prevention is to check the leaves carefully for insects, spider mites, and gastropods ahead of moving plants inside for the winter.

A blast of water from the hose is usually enough to send these pests on their way. If they keep reinfesting, you may need to turn to an application of neem oil, which acts as a natural fungicide and pesticide.

Some of the most common insects and arachnids you might encounter include spider mites, mealybugs, scale, and thrips. You can find information on detecting and combating each in our guides.

Personally, I’ve had a bit of trouble with snails and slugs while my angel-wing begonias are enjoying the great outdoors in spring.

If you’ve seen jagged holes in the foliage, these gastropods could be the culprit.

Learn to spot snail and slug damage and manage it using tips from our guide.

Disease

You can avoid most ailments that afflict angel-wing begonias by giving them ample space for air circulation, growing them in well-draining soil or potting mix, and never overwatering.

Limiting moisture or standing water below the plants helps reduce the harmful water molds that cause root or stem rot.

Overly damp soil or wet leaves can also result in fungal diseases like powdery mildew and leaf spot.

Be wary of Botrytis cinerea, which causes a disease called botrytis. Its damage appears on the flowers first and can be prevented by consistently deadheading blooms and removing fallen leaf debris.

Best Uses for Angel-Wing Begonias

When you’re an indoor or outdoor gardener who prefers plants that bloom year-round and have evergreen leaves, angel-wing begonias are ideal.

The taller specimens can anchor a spot on a shady patio garden.

Or, you can keep a more modest variety clipped and shaped to serve as a living centerpiece on a well-lit dining room or kitchen table. Just make sure those calcium oxalate-rich leaves don’t fall in the salad!

Window boxes, hanging baskets, a huge pot in the well-lit foyer, or a well-draining garden border lined with wing-shaped foliage and clusters of blooms are only the start. Once you start growing angel-wings and propagating cuttings, you’ll find many uses for them.

Like my sister-in-law, I consider these ornamentals a good gift for an enterprising preteen with a fondness for flowers and a green thumb. Or, give one to yourself!