Knowing how and when to prune peppers in mild-winter climates is essential to keeping them healthy and productive for many years.
In mild-winter climates like where I live (low desert of Arizona zone 9b), pepper plants often live for many years. If left to continue growing, plants get spindly and are prone to breaking. Plants also have damage from the infrequent (but still possible) frost events or the extreme heat in the summer.
Disclaimer: This post may contain affiliate links. See my disclosure policy for more information.
When is the best time to prune peppers in mild-winter climates?
Bell pepper plants in February after several frost events.
The weather extremes of very hot summers and occasional frosts in the winter leave my pepper plants a little haggard. I usually prune pepper plants twice a year. Once in the spring (after the danger of frost has passed) and again in the early fall, once temperatures have dropped from the summer heat.
The September pruning of these peppers resulted in an abundant harvest in late December.
If the plants are a manageable size and healthy, you may only need to prune them once a year.
When pruning peppers, you should focus on removing any dead or damaged growth. This will help to encourage the plant to put more energy into producing fruit rather than putting effort into maintaining unhealthy foliage.
You can lightly prune all over, cutting back to just above a node each time.
What is a node?
Nodes are the points on a stem where the buds, leaves, and branching twigs originate. Identify the nodes on pepper plants by noticing where the branches divide.
If more severe pruning is necessary, cut branches to just above where you see new growth beginning, just above a node. Usually, count up from the bottom of the plant and cut just above the 2nd or 3rd node. Pruning to this point allows light to penetrate the bottom of the plant.
You can also prune back long or thin branches, which are more vulnerable to breakage and can become unwieldy.
Make sure to prune all over the plant for the best results.
After pruning, it’s important to fertilize the pepper plant with a balanced organic fertilizer and to water it well.
Within a couple of days, you should see a burst of growth with an abundance of leaves, followed by blossoms and eventually peppers.
What about pruning pepper seedlings?
Central stalk of this seedling was cut outSeveral days later you can see the new growth below the cut
Topping pepper seedlings is often done to encourage pepper plants to have more of a bush habit with stronger stems. To prune your seedlings, cut the main stem to just above a node.
Cut the central stem to just above a node when plant is several inches tallAfter “topping”
Depending on the type of pepper plant you are growing, this may or may not be necessary. Experiment with different kinds of plants in your garden to see if it improves your yield. I generally “top” most of my pepper plants. I’ve had the best results with pruning large peppers like bell peppers.
How long do pepper plants last in mild-winter climates?
When growing pepper plants, you may find that the quantity of peppers decreases after about three years of successful production. This is a sign that it is time to replace the plants. Save seeds from your favorite peppers to start new plants. Plant a new pepper seedling in a different location and enjoy fresh peppers for many years.
If you live in a mild-winter climate, pruning your peppers twice a year can keep your plants healthy and productive for many years. Good luck and happy pruning!
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When I first saw the gorgeous blooms on ranunculus flowers, I didn’t think growing them here in the low desert of Arizona was possible. I’m glad I was wrong. Learning how to grow ranunculus is easier than you think.
The stunning rose-like blooms with tissue-thin petals almost don’t look real. Ranunculus blooms come in nearly every color on tall stems. With these five tips, learn how to grow ranunculus (even if you live in a hot summer climate like the low desert of Arizona).
Disclaimer: This post contains affiliate links. See my disclosure policy for more information.
5 Tips for How to Grow Ranunculus
1. Plant ranunculus at the right time
Ranunculus grows best in spring-like temperatures of about 55°F with plenty of sunlight.
In zones seven and warmer, there are two planting windows — late fall and again in late winter or early spring. For zones cooler than zone 7, plant in the spring after the danger of frost is passed.
In the low desert of Arizona, plant ranunculus corms from October to November and again from February to March (Presprout corms if planting in February – March)
October 24November 16November 30January 23March 5March 26
Floret’s top choices for ranunculus varieties are the La Belle Series, which includes Salmon, Champagne, Orange, Pink Picotee, and Pastel Mix.
Flowers to Plant Outside & Seeds to Start Indoors Each Month in the Low Desert of Arizona. • PLANTING GUIDE: Each month lists annual flowers and bulbs to plant outside & seeds to start indoors. • BLOOMING GUIDE: Photos show what may be in bloom that month.
2. Soak corms before planting
Ranunculus are grown from claw-like ‘corms’ — a swollen underground plant stem that stores the nutrients for the plant until needed. Look for large corms, which have more stored energy and will grow larger with more blooms. I love the ranunculus corms from Renee’s Garden.
Soak the corms in tepid water for 3 to 4 hours (not longer). The corms will absorb the moisture and often double in size.
3. Plant ranunculus correctly
Ranunculus grows best in rich, healthy, well-draining soil with plenty of sunlight. Add several inches of compost and a balanced organic fertilizer to the soil before planting.
Plant corms 2-3 inches deep and about 6 inches apart. Place ranunculus corms in the ground with the claws facing down. Fill the hole back in with soil and water well.
If you live in a wet climate, you may not need to water again until sprouts appear. Too much moisture in the soil may cause the corms to rot.
In dry climates like the low desert, keep soil evenly moist but do not overwater to prevent the corms from rotting.
Overall, ranunculus is an easy plant to grow and is pest and disease-resistant.
Ranunculus needs plenty of sunlight to grow well. Ranunculus grows best in moist soil but does not like overwatering. If soil is not well-draining, ranunculus corms often rot.
SPECIAL NOTE: All parts of ranunculus are poisonous when ingested. The plant sap may cause skin irritation. Poison is not residual in the soil; only the plant is poisonous.
5. Enjoy ranunculus blooms
Corms planted in the fall typically bloom for about six weeks.Spring-planted corms bloom for about four weeks, depending on the weather. Once temperatures heat up, the blooms will stop.
In the low desert of Arizona, you can expect blooms to begin in February for fall-planted corms and continue through May for spring-planted corms.
For the longest vase life (10-12 days!) harvest when buds are colored and “squishy like a marshmallow” but not yet open. If they are harvested after opening, the blooms last about a week. Use a floral preservative to encourage long vase life.
Deadheading plants encourage more blooms.
When blooms finish, and the leaves begin to yellow and die back, cut the foliage off and stop watering. Allow the corms to dry out and go dormant.
If desired, dig up dormant corms and store them in a cool, dry place until it is time to plant next season.
When growing ranunculus for cut flowers, it is best to treat it as an annual and plant new corms each year.
If you live in a hot summer climate, plant these ten perennial herbs once, and you’ll enjoy harvests for years!
A perennial is a species that completes its life cycle over three or more years, with the ability to survive both winter and summer and can be harvested without killing the plant. Each one of these herbs has survived for several years in my low desert Arizona garden.
Perennial herbs are a simple way to increase production and yield in the garden. Once you plant them, you can harvest them for years to come!
10 Perennial Herbs Every Gardener in Hot Summer Climate Should Grow
1. Bay Laurel
Bay Laurel is a slow grower and can take up to 2 years to establish, but once it does, it can survive for many years.
2. Lemon Grass
Lemon grass is easy to grow and requires very little maintenance. It grows well in partial sun or full sun and well-drained soil.
I like to grow sage in the corner of a raised bed. It prefers well-drained soil with full sunlight. Give this perennial herb a trim in early spring and again at the end of summer to keep it looking it’s best.
When choosing a transplant, rub a leaf to smell the aroma. Choose plants with the most potent aroma for the best flavor. Planting oregano in pots or containers is a great option to prevent spreading.
Thyme is my favorite perennial herb for cooking. I usually grow thyme in several locations throughout my garden. It does best with afternoon shade during the summer.
Mint can spread, so grow in containers. This tough plant often dies back during the hottest months of the year but usually returns with abundant growth in the fall.
Mulch is your secret weapon in the garden. I talk about the need to mulch your garden in nearly every blog post; mulching is that important. This post covers the benefits of mulch, what to use for mulch in different areas of your garden, and the best tips for how to use mulch in your garden.
Disclaimer: This post contains affiliate links. See my disclosure policy for more information.
Benefits of Mulching your Garden
1. Mulching your garden helps regulate soil temperature
Hot soil is hard on plants. Mulch keeps the sun off the soil, so the soil stays cooler. Thick mulch helps insulate it even more.
Higher soil temperatures slow plant growth, and mulch moderates that temperature.
Mulch shades the soil from the sun’s direct rays causing less temperature variation.
During cooler temps, mulch also helps insulate the soil.
2. Mulching your garden helps slow evaporation
A thick layer of mulch means that less moisture is lost through evaporation. You can then water less frequently, saving water, money, and time!
3. Mulching adds organic matter to your garden
When you add natural mulch in the form of bark, straw, or compost,they are incorporated into the soil and add nutrients and organic matter.
4. Mulching your garden helps prevent and control weeds
Mulching blocks the sunlight needed for weeds to germinate and often smothers existing weeds.
ALL OF THIS TOGETHER MEANS MORE GOOD THINGS GOING ON IN THE SOIL. Increased moisture, fewer temperature fluctuations, and more organic matter lead to more worm activity and more beneficial microorganisms in the soil. That means healthier soil and plants.
Different Types of Mulch:
Compost
Use homemade, bagged, or bulk compost. Compost is high in nutrients and has a finer texture than other mulching options.
A note about fresh animal manure; it must be aged before using it as mulch or compost in the garden.
Where to get it: I make my own and I also love the compost from Arizona Worm Farm.
Composted mulch
Larger texture than regular compost. It is typically made from landscape waste and isn’t completely broken down yet.
Where to get it: Arizona Worm Farm has this available. They call it mulch or city mulch. I also like the bagged composted mulch from A&P Nursery.
Pine needles
Pine needles are very light, airy, and easy to spread. One nice thing about pine needles is they don’t compact. Use a thick layer (3-4 inches) when using pine needles.
Pine needles may lower the pH of soil when mixed in with the soil. That may not be bad here in the low desert where our soil tends to be more alkaline. Pine needles become more pH neutral as they break down.
Straw (not hay)
(Don’t use hay as it often contains seeds). Straw is the stalk left over after grain, like barley, has been harvested. It is dry and hollow, and there is no nutrition left in it. Use a pesticide-free straw.
Gather and save all leaves when they fall. Bag leaves and allow them to begin to break down; this creates leaf mold. Use your lawnmower to run over leaves to shred them. Shredded or small leaves are better at allowing water to penetrate and don’t become matted as easily.
Bark / Wood chips
The larger texture of bark and wood chips means they last longer in the garden. They may compete for some nitrogen as the wood chips break down in garden beds.
These options for mulch are full of nutrients. Grow cover crops in beds when they would otherwise be empty. Do not use grass clippings from Bermuda grass or grass treated with chemical fertilizers, pesticides, or herbicides.
Cardboard / Newspaper
Cardboard is often used as sheet mulch under beds and in pathways to help prevent weeds. Spread newspaper in beds, but top with something else like compost or soil to hold it in place.
Where to get it: Finally, something to do with all of those Amazon boxes!
Which mulch to use in your garden
Raised and in-ground garden beds:
Smaller-grade organic materials such as compost, composted mulch, shredded leaves, straw, and smaller wood chips are excellent mulch in raised garden beds.
Pathways:
Larger materials last longer in pathways and around raised beds.
Treewells:
All materials are suitable for around trees, but take care to keep mulch away from the base of the tree.
Tips for how to use mulch in your garden
Wait until plants have grown to several inches tall before applying mulch.
Keep mulch about an inch away from the stems of plants.
Add a little extra organic fertilizer below the mulch when using leaves or bark as they can take nitrogen from the soil as they break down.
If you use Garden Grids for watering like I do, put them on top of the mulch. You may have to water a little longer to penetrate the mulch layer.
Plan on applying mulch twice a year in the spring after planting (before the heat of summer), and again after fall planting.
Apply a 2-3 inch layer of most mulches. Less than 2 inches doesn’t give you all the benefits, but a larger layer can be difficult for water to penetrate.
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Living in a mild-winter climate means that you may try to push the boundaries of what can be grown throughout winter. Frost and cold weather can come on quickly, and knowing what to cover in a freeze can mean the difference between life and death for some of your plants. Be prepared by gathering needed items like frost cloth and burlap before a freeze hits.
This article shares tips for protecting your warm-climate garden from freezing temperatures, such as knowing the most common times for frost, utilizing effective plant placement in your garden, and knowing what to have on hand to protect plants. These tips will give your garden the best chance of surviving freezing temperatures.
Disclaimer: This post contains affiliate links. See my disclosure policy for more information.
6 Tips for Protecting Your Warm-Climate Garden from Freezing Temperatures
1. Learn when to expect freezing temperatures
An essential tool in knowing when freezing temperatures are most likely is knowing your first and last frost dates. You can look them up here using your zip code if you live in the United States.
Frost is most likely on clear, calm nights with few clouds and low humidity. Cold winds will also decrease the temperature.
During the day, the soil is warmed by the sun, and that heat is radiated throughout the night. So, the coldest temperatures of the night will occur just before dawn.
Use a minimum/maximum thermometer to measure your local temperature accurately. The reading on the weather app on your phone may not be accurate for your yard.
Light freeze: 29°F to 32°F (-1.6°C to 0°C). Tender plants are often killed.
Moderate freeze: 25°F to 28°F (-3.88°C to -2.22°C) causes damage to many plants.
Severe freeze: 24°F (-4.44°C) and colder – causes heavy damage to many plants.
2. Choose the best location in your yard for frost-tender plants
Cold air moves downslope and settles in the lowest spots. The cold spots in your yard are good for planting fruit trees that need chill hours and other cold-loving plants.
Plant frost-tender trees and plants in the warmest areas of your yard. An area with a western or southern exposure with reflected heat from a block wall will be warmer than other areas in your landscape. The heat absorbed by a block wall throughout the day will radiate during the night.
3. Understand what makes a plant have frost damage
Frost on a plant disrupts the movement of fluids within the plant and dries it out, leaving behind brown and crispy damage.
Some factors that make plants more or less susceptible to damage from freezing temperatures include:
Dormancy — A plant that is dormant will have less damage than a tree or plant that is actively growing. This is why a sudden frost early in the season will often do more damage than a frost later in the season after plants have adjusted to colder temperatures.
Watering — Well-watered plants withstand freezing temperatures better than dehydrated plants. The water in the soil also helps to insulate the soil.
Pruning — Newly-pruned areas of the plant are more susceptible to frost damage.
Newly planted — Less-established root systems of new plants are more likely to be damaged by frost.
Plants in containers — Container-grown plants are subject to higher fluctuations in temperature than in-ground plants. They are more likely to suffer damage in a freeze.
Lower temperatures, longer exposure to freezing temperatures, and rapid drops in temperature cause more damage.
Frost-damaged pepper plant
4. What to cover in a freeze and what not to cover during a freeze
Cold weather signals the end of the life cycle for many annual plants. In warm-climate areas like the low desert of Arizona, providing protection from freezing temperatures may prolong the growing season.
Peppers, tomatoes, eggplants, and basil are a few plants that, if protected from a freeze, may continue to produce and grow. Other tender plants will need to be replanted in the spring.
What to cover in a freeze: Tender — injured by a light frost (cover during a freeze or harvest before cold temperatures).
What to cover in a freeze: Protecting citrus during a freeze
Frost-damaged citrus
Freezing weather can cause severe damage to citrus trees.
Young trees are more susceptible to frost damage. Cover citrus during a freeze for the first 3-5 years after planting.
Fruit damage may occur after several hours of temperatures below 27°F (-2.7°C). Frost-damaged fruit will have a dry interior.
Wait until after the danger of frost has passed in the spring to prune frost-damaged limbs and branches.
Some citrus trees are more cold-hardy than others.
Kumquat and mandarin trees are most cold-hardy (18°F – 20℉) or (-7.7°C to -6.6°C).
Grapefruit and orange trees (tolerate to Mid 20’s℉ ) (-3.88°C)
Lemon, and especially lime trees, are the most frost-sensitive, often suffering damage at 32℉ (0°C). They are extremely frost-sensitive; choose the warmest areas of your yard for planting. Lemon and lime trees often do not go into dormancy, so frost affects them more than other citrus.
What to cover in a freeze: Frost-tender landscape plants
Frost-damaged coral vine
Many tender landscape plants will recover from light frosts but have unsightly damage if you don’t cover them. Covering tender landscape plants during a freeze may prevent damage. Don’t prune frost-damaged plants until after the danger of frost has passed in the spring.
Cover these plants during a freeze to prevent damage:
Frost-tender landscape plants include (but are not limited to): bougainvillea, some cacti, cape honeysuckle, coral vine, fairy dusters, ficus, hibiscus, lantana, natal plum, myoporum, pygmy date palms, succulents, tropical plants (avocado, banana, guava, etc.), yellow bells.
Cover the plant completely, allowing the cover to drape down to the soil all around the plant. This traps the warmth inside. Don’t gather the cover around the trunk; it won’t trap radiated heat from around the plant.
Wrap trunks of frost-sensitive trees and young trees loosely with multiple layers of cloth. This can be left in place all winter.
Use styrofoam cups to protect the growing tips of cactus.
Add heat by wrapping heat-generating light bulbs(not LED) below the foliage of the covered plants. Take care not to have bulbs burn the bark or branches.
Remove sheets or blankets in the morning after the frost thaws. Dormant plants can be brought out of dormancy by keeping the plant covers on and trapping the heat during the day. Actively-growing plants are more likely to suffer frost damage than dormant plants.
Frost cloth can be left in place for several days without harming the plant.
Cover newly planted citrus during a freeze
I put burlap on my newly planted citrus
6. What to do after a frost
Did your perennial plants suffer frost damage? Don’t prune them right away. The damaged limbs and branches protect the plant from further frost damage.
Before pruning, wait until the danger of frost is past in the spring and you begin to see new growth. Prune back to just before where the new growth begins.
Severely damaged tomatoes, peppers, and other annual plants may need removal.
As a low desert gardener, it’s exciting to learn how to grow a crop that I already use, is good for you, and grows well in warm climates. Ginger definitely qualifies on all three accounts. Learning how to grow ginger is easy, and growing it is even simpler (especially if you live in a warm climate).
Ginger is a heat-loving, tropical perennial herb grown for its bamboo-like leaves and flavorful rhizomes. It is grown as a long-season annual in all but the warmest locations.
Disclaimer: this post contains affiliate links. See my disclosure policy for more information.
8 Tips for How to Grow Ginger
1. Understand how ginger grows
Ginger is grown from rhizomes. Rhizomes are fleshy stems that spread horizontally underground and contain several buds or growing points. The ginger rhizomes are planted below ground and send up bamboo-like shoots that give energy to the developing ginger below ground.
Ginger shoots emerge from the ground when the weather is nice and warm in the spring. Throughout the long days and warm months of summer, ginger grows well. As the days get shorter and cooler, the leaves turn yellow as the ginger begins to go dormant.
You can buy ginger online from seed companies, but you can also purchase organic ginger from your local market. I get mine at Sprouts. When purchasing ginger rhizomes for planting, look for light-colored, thin-skinned organic ginger that is plump and firm with several bumpy nodules.
To prepare ginger for planting, cut rhizomes into 2″-3″ pieces (each piece containing at least 2 to 3 nodules). Allow cut ends to dry and heal over before planting.
3. Give ginger plenty of time to grow
Ginger needs a long, warm growing season of about 10 months to grow well.
Zones 8 and warmer generally have enough time to start and grow ginger outdoors. Plant outdoors after your last frost date and when the soil warms in the spring. In the low desert of Arizona, plant ginger in March.
Plant rhizomes with nodules pointing up 2″ deep and 6″–8″ apart.
Plant 4 ginger per square foot in square foot gardeningGinger sprouting in the garden
In cooler climates, you will need to pre-sprout rhizomes indoors before planting. Count back 10 months from your first fall frost date. This is the time to begin pre-sprouting your ginger.
To pre-sprout ginger, plant rhizomes 2″ deep in small pots on heat mats. Keep warm and slightly moist (but not soggy; it will rot). Once ginger sprouts, provide supplemental lightinguntil it is warm enough to plant outside. Gradually let plants become accustomed to outdoor conditions for a week and then carefully transplant sprouts to larger containers or garden beds outdoors.
4. Give ginger plenty of warmth
Ginger does not grow well in temperatures below 55°F. Temperatures below freezing cause damage to the leaves and also kills the rhizomes.
In cooler climates, choose your warmest location to plant ginger. Look for an area that gets reflected heat from a block wall. Consider planting ginger in a container. Containers often heat up more quickly in the spring. Move the container to a sheltered location when temperatures fall.
In hot summer locations, provide shade for growing ginger. Although it prefers warm soil, intense sun often damages the growing leaves. Look for an area to plant ginger that receives shade naturally, or provide shade for growing ginger.
5. Give ginger good soil and fertilize as needed
The best soil for ginger is rich in organic matter and well-draining. Rich, loose soil may provide enough nutrients for growing ginger. Mulching the soil with additional compost or straw helps provide nutrients, control weeds, and retain water.
While ginger is growing, you can add a few inches of compost to growing ginger sprouts, similar to “hilling” potatoes. This can encourage more growth in the rhizomes.
If your ginger is not growing well, consider feeding every few weeks with an organic fertilizer such as liquid seaweed or fish emulsion. Testing your soil will help you know exactly what the soil is lacking.
Ginger developing below ground
6. Water ginger correctly
Ginger grows best with regular water, especially when the plant is actively growing. Well-draining soil is important as the rhizomes do not like soggy conditions. Do not overwater. As temperatures cool, reduce watering.
7. Harvest ginger at the right time
In cool climates, harvest ginger all at once before freezing temperatures. In warmer climates, harvest ginger after the leaves begin to yellow and die back. Wait to harvest as long as possible for the largest rhizomes.
To harvest, gently dig up the entire plant.In warm areas, you can leave the ginger in the ground and harvest as needed. Plants will go dormant during the cooler months and shorter days of winter, but new shoots will emerge in the spring.
8. Preserve harvested ginger in a variety of ways
After harvesting ginger, rinse it well and then cut off shoots and large roots. Use the leaves in tea.
Store fresh ginger in the refrigerator or freezer in plastic resealable bags. Unpeeled ginger keeps for about a month in the refrigerator or up to a year frozen.
Dehydrate ginger by peeling (young, fresh ginger may not need to be peeled) and slicing. Dehydrate at 95°F for 8-12 hours or until ginger is crisp and breaks when bent. I use this dehydrator from Amazon.
Sliced ginger before dehydratingSliced ginger after dehydrating
Store dehydrated slices in a glass jar with an airtight lid. Process small amounts of the sliced ginger into powder. Once ground, the powder will begin to lose flavor so grind only a small amount at a time.
Process dehydrated ginger in blender to turn into powderStore dehydrated ginger in sealed glass jars
Process peeled ginger (young, fresh ginger may not need to be peeled) with a small amount of water in the blender.This is the blender I use.
Process young unpeeled ginger in a blenderPulse until smooth
Freeze in herb or ice cube trays. Use individual portions as needed. When processed this way, ginger lasts up to about a year in the freezer.
Freeze in ice cube or herb traysStore frozen cubes in freezer bags for up to 1 year
If you live in a hot summer climate, you may have wondered if a greenhouse would be beneficial. Questions like:
Would a greenhouse get too hot in Arizona?
How many months of the year could I use the greenhouse?
This article discusses the benefits of having a greenhouse (even in a hot summer climate), the challenges to consider, and the best ways to make the greenhouse a productive space during the year’s hottest months.
Benefits of having a greenhouse
Extends the growing season, whether in cold or warmer weather.
The ability to control the environment, including sunlight, temperature, humidity, and ventilation.
Protection from the elements.
Little or no damage from insects, birds, and other animals.
Increased water efficiency.
Central location for seed starting and gardening supplies.
Place to implement hydroponics or other methods.
Challenges with having a greenhouse in Arizona and other hot summer climates
Historically, the function of a greenhouse is to trap heat. However, during the summer heat, greenhouse temperatures can surpass 150°F (65.6°C), which is too hot for plants. High winds during the monsoon/windy seasons also present a challenge.
Choosing the best location for your greenhouse
Typically, a greenhouse is placed in an area with the most sunlight. However, in a hot summer climate, taking advantage of locations that offer natural shade is crucial.
Here are a few considerations about where to position your greenhouse:
Look for locations in your yard that receive shade during the summer naturally. Consider how the sun exposure or shadows will change throughout the year.
Level ground for the greenhouse foundation. Consider installing a cement pad.
Protection from the elements. Placement near a house or fence can help. It is also essential to secure or bolt the greenhouse to the foundation.
Proper drainage. Ideally, the land surrounding the greenhouse is sloped so that water will drain away from your foundation.
Access to electricity and water. Plumb or put these in place before you add a foundation or cement pad.
Convenience. Someplace you can access easily.
What to consider before purchasing a greenhouse
Greenhouses come in various shapes, sizes, and use of materials. Available types include traditional, hoop houses, lean-to’s, cold frames, polytunnels, and attached solariums.
Considerations for greenhouses in hot summer climates:
Available space. Most people with greenhouses wish they had made them larger. Choose the largest size your space and budget will allow.
Design. Do you like the look of it?
Cost. What’s your budget?
Durability. Arizona has severe winds during the monsoon season.
Material type. A galvanized steel or aluminum frame (for durability) with thick polycarbonate panels (for good light diffusion and insulation) could be an effective solution for a hot summer climate.
Height. Adding vertical space can increase the available space for storage and ventilation.
Ventilation. Roof vents with (automatic) openers.
Misting systems and accessory availability.
Quality of construction. Insulation of greenhouse with rubber seals, types of windows, etc.
How to keep a greenhouse cool in hot summer climates
Each method will only partially bring down the heat, but combining techniques will bring the temperature down and make the greenhouse usable throughout the year.
Ceiling fan and circulating fans for air movement.
Louver (manual and automatic) windows that can be opened or closed depending on temperatures.
Interior and exterior shade cloth.
Tint the windows, just like you would a car. While these other strategies reduce the temperatures by 5-10°F, this method can reduce it by more than 30°F.
Greenhouse management tips for a hot summer climate
Once you have a greenhouse, a few essential practices will help ensure your greenhouse is a place where plants thrive.
Like a garden, plan on spending time in your greenhouse daily to monitor the temperature and plant health. Problems will be easier to manage if you catch them when they are small.
Measure the indoor temperature and humidity. Learn which methods for cooling (or heating) the space are most effective. The goal is to maintain the inside temperature between 65-85°F (18-29°C). Try to avoid wide temperature fluctuations.
Keep a greenhouse journal: record germination times and temperatures to help you learn from your experiences.
Keep it clean. Sweep up or vacuum messes and debris.
Don’t overload your greenhouse. Good airflow is crucial for plants.
Don’t bring pest-damaged or diseased plants into the greenhouse; they may spread those issues to other plants.
During the hottest months, you may need to provide additional lighting for plants if the light is blocked by shade cloth.
Avoid standing water. Use layers of gym-style pads and rubber mats to drain the moisture out of the building. Water seedlings from the bottom and drain off extra water.
Keep the door closed. This helps maintain the temperature and humidity levels and keeps insects out.
Thank you to Larry Burnett for contributing to this post.
Larry Burnett is a retired Administrator from Banner Health and a Partner from KPMG. Larry has lived in Arizona since 1984 and gardened here extensively.
He is a Master Gardener through the University of Arizona and a mentor for Master Gardener students. His favorite time of the day is when he is outside in his greenhouse, garden, and flower beds. Here’s a link to Larry’s Jansen Greenhouse, featured in this article.
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