Say Hello to the 4 Designers Ushering in Fine Jewelry’s New Era

Lorraine West, a first-generation Caribbean American, was born and raised in Central Islip, a suburb outside of New York City. Her parents—a carpenter and a professional baker—provided her primary source of design inspiration thanks to their own interest in all things DIY and dedication to both craftsmanship and entrepreneurship. In 1998, West earned her BFA from the Fashion Institute of Technology with a focus on illustration. During her studies, she discovered the jewelry-supply store Toho Shoji, which remains a staple business in Bryant Park, and almost immediately, she became enthralled with jewelry making. “I walked in the store with $23 and out with zero, pliers, cutters, wire, and beads in hand,” West recalls. “I had no idea it would become a business.”

Tell me about the fine-jewelry community. Is it a diverse environment? Is it a close-knit group? Do you help each other out? What do you love about it? How could it be improved? 

I connected with the fine-jewelry community in 2019. I was a lone wolf prior, so it’s been a true joy to connect with OG jewelers I admired as a young adult, contemporaries, and emerging designers. It’s becoming more of a diverse environment, especially since 2020. I love the camaraderie among the jewelers I’ve connected with. We can cheer on one another, learn from [each other], and share resources. There’s room for all of us to shine. There’s still work to do. Industry leaders, editors, stylists, and retailers need to keep up with the pulse of the diverse talent and create space to nurture it.

Would you say that you have a community in the jewelry space? How did you find it? 

I found a jewelry community through participation in group pop-up markets, various jewelry-design initiatives, and networking events celebrating diversity. I made myself available to share my knowledge, experience, and resources. I have nothing to lose because my product offering is unique to me, and no matter what anyone else is doing, I stay true to my vision and design ethos. From my observation, the industry can be secretive, cliquish, and gatekeeping. One of my goals as a designer and leader in this space is to break those walls down.

How are initiatives like the one De Beers has created to support diversity in the fine-jewelry space beneficial? Why do you think more companies should follow suit? 

The De Beers initiative #BlackIsBrilliant that I was honored to be a part of has been life-changing. It has given me the opportunity to design high-jewelry pieces with De Beers sustainable diamonds from Botswana for the red carpet. It has expanded my design ethos and education about diamond provenance, from the mines to final goods distribution. More companies should follow suit and not just stop at short-term initiatives. Create space for diversity and provide resources and opportunities to assist in growing careers indefinitely.