Queen Sofia’s Sterlé Sapphire Brooch

Happy Birthday to Queen Sofia of Spain, who celebrates her 86th birthday today! An accomplished Greek Princess who became the first Queen Consort of Spain’s restored monarchy, Queen Sofia remains one of the most admired members of the Spanish Royal Family. Her jewelry collection is both rich in historic family heirlooms and contemporary treasures, including her exquisite Sterlé Sapphire Brooch, which we’re featuring today!

In 1968, upon of the Birth of Infante Felipe, the first male son and heir apparent to the headship of the House of Borbon, the then Princess Sofia received an extraordinary brooch signed by the “couturier de la joaillerie”. Designed in the form of a comet, it features an important cabochon sapphire surrounded by diamonds with a tail of gold threads punctuated by brilliant diamonds and coral beads. Although the precise origin of this piece remain unknown, the most widely replicated theory suggests that it was a gift from General Franco to commemorate continuity of the Dynasty.

Pierre Sterlé was a renowned French jeweller famed for his distinctive and innovative designs during the mid-20th century. Known as the “couturier of jewellery,” Sterlé’s creations were characterized by their intricate craftsmanship and imaginative forms, often inspired by nature. His pieces frequently incorporated elements like feathers, leaves, and flowing, ribbon-like structures that demonstrated a deep understanding of movement. He worked with high-quality gemstones and metals, and his skilful manipulation of gold became a hallmark of his work. Unlike other jewellers of his time, Sterlé often used textured gold wire and highly flexible chains, creating pieces that appeared to flutter or ripple when worn.

Princess Sofia debuted the Sterlé Brooch for the Christening of Infante Felipe, held at the Zarzuela Palace a week after his own birth. The Princess also wears the Brooch for the first official photographs taken as a complete family, chosen for the 1968 Christmas cards, sitting with the then Prince Juan Carlos, and their children, Doña Elena, Doña Cristina, and Don Felipe.

Throughout the early 1970s, Doña Sofía wore the Comet Brooch to various galas and high-profile events, including the Wedding of the Duke of Cadiz and Carmen Martinez Bordiú in 1972.

After the Proclamation of Don Juan Carlos as King of Spain in 1975, the new Queen of Spain kept wearing the Sterlé Brooch, though less often. Its appearances became increasingly rare in the following decades, with its last known outing in 1999 at a banquet honouring the Colombian President at the Royal Palace of Madrid, where it was paired with the Diamond Floral Tiara.

After a 24-year hiatus, Queen Sofia surprised royal watchers by wearing the Sterlé Brooch again at the Wedding of Crown Prince Hussein of Jordan, complementing her Sapphire Suite.

Most recently, Queen Sofia donned the Comet Brooch last month to attend a series of Military Commemorative events. We hope to see this exquisite piece continue to be part of Her Majesty’s choices for years to come!

This article was written by assistant editor, David Rato, who runs the Spanish Royal Jewels account on Instagram!

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