NYC hidden dining gems: Johnson’s Bar-B-Q in the Bronx

If there’s a food that evokes seriously strong opinions and arguments, it’s probably barbecue. There are four main regional barbecue styles here in the U.S. — Kansas City, Memphis, Carolina, and Texas — there are dozens of variations and nearly as many opinions about which is superior. Whichever style you rank supreme, I have a feeling this Bronx establishment will appease even the toughest of critics: Johnson’s Bar-B-Q.

Johnson’s Bar-B-Q was founded in 1954 by the late James and Pauline Johnson. James hailed from South Carolina, Pauline from Virginia, and they wanted a traditional South Carolina-style barbecue joint above the Mason-Dixon line. While Johnson’s was eventually passed down to the current owner, their son Dwayne, not much else has changed. The eatery is humble with no modern décor and no frills — just a few chairs for folks to wait for their takeout at this strictly carryout restaurant. The recipes and ingredients are the same as they were when Johnson’s opened almost 70 years ago.

The best-seller is the ribs, but with a menu so small, the store frequently sells out of all of its food. In fact, while the restaurant hours are technically 12:30 p.m. to 8:30 pm., Stacia — a third-generation Johnson who’s next in line to take over the restaurant — tells me they actually close when they run out of food. That’s sometimes as early as 4 p.m.

After hearing about the ribs, I knew that’s what I would be ordering. While waiting for my food, I witnessed several customers ordering things like fried chicken sandwiches and fish dinners. Each one told me that not only was the food consistently phenomenal, but the faces behind the meals were good enough a reason to continue paying Johnson’s a visit. With Stacia’s natural hospitable demeanor and Dwayne’s infectious smile, I felt that warmth, too.

Each meal includes two sides with four to choose from: black-eyed peas over rice, collard greens, candied yams, and macaroni and cheese. They all sounded equally appealing, so I said, “Screw it, give me one of each.” Shortly thereafter, two large takeout containers appeared in front of me, and Stacia asked if I wanted to “sauce my ribs.” Um, yes, please.

She grabbed two bottles of sauce and began generously drizzling a tangy, classic BBQ sauce and Johnson’s famous mustard sauce all over the ribs. The ribs looked like a true masterpiece, with streaks of yellow and a glazed brown painted in either direction. I wished I could devour them right there.

When I did get home, I dug right in. The ribs are tender, even after almost an hour’s commute back to Queens, with the meat falling off of the bone. After one bite, I understood completely why that mustard sauce has really put Johnson’s on the map. The bright yellow sauce is acidic, tangy, and peppery, and helps cut through the natural fattiness of the pork. While the eatery’s founder, James Johnson, comes from South Carolina, Stacia told me they don’t call it Carolina gold, despite its resemblance. They simply refer to it as mustard sauce. It’s so popular, the store now sells it bottled to go for $12.

The sides each offer a contrasting flavor profile, with the collard greens having a nice peppery kick, the candied yams providing a punch of sweetness, the rich mac and cheese further adding to the decadence, and the black-eyed peas offering a slightly nutty but overall subtle bite.

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If you find yourself in search of barbecue that will make you feel like you’re in the slow comfort of the South, pay this long-running Bronx establishment a visit for some of the best in town.

Address: 790 E 163rd St, Bronx, NY 10456

Phone: (914) 439-6187

Prices: Dinner (main with two sides) $16 to $21; sides $5 to $10, Sandwiches $8 to $9; Full rack of ribs $39

Hours: Tuesday-Sunday 12:30 p.m. to 8:30 p.m. (or until they sell out), closed Mondays

Cash only; no reservations; takeout and delivery only

Kaitlyn Rosati is a New York City-based food and travel journalist. She is constantly on the hunt to find the city’s best hidden gems, allowing New Yorkers to travel far without ever leaving the boroughs. Have a suggestion for a great hidden dining gem in your neighborhood? Reach out to Kaitlyn with your recommendations at [email protected].

Originally Published: Aug 23, 2023 at 9:58 am