It’s easy to overlook Nusa, the fast-casual Indonesian restaurant that opened in the former Charlotte Café space at The Arboretum in December. It sits among a cluster of Asian eateries (Curry Junction, Sushiya Japan Ramen & Sushi Bar, and Malaya Kitchen), and the south Charlotte shopping center is home to several popular local restaurants (Vicious Biscuit, Cajun Yard Dog, Link & Pin). But don’t sleep on this one. Nusa is the first fully authentic Indonesian restaurant in North Carolina, and it’s a refreshing change when you’ve had your fill of customizable salads, bowls, and burritos.
Nusa is a short for Nusantara, an Old Javanese term that means “outer islands.” Chef Robin Anthony of Prime Fish and Omakase Experience is behind this venture, but Indonesian-born Chef Hendra Tjiey leads the kitchen. He’s created a menu of street foods that includes skewers; curry chicken; stuffed tofu; and rice, noodle, and soup dishes. Chicken anchors most of Nusa’s menu, but they’ve added a few beef dishes to appeal to Western palates. In keeping with Indonesian tradition, though, pork is nowhere on the menu.
You order at the counter, take a number, and find a table, where your food is delivered. The beverage case has your standard soft drinks and a few you might not recognize, like Teh Botol, an Indonesian jasmine tea that comes in a juice box. At press time, Nusa was awaiting its beer and wine license but plans to offer a selection of local brews as well.
When you peruse the menu above the register, be aware that some names and descriptions get lost in translation. The Creamy Croquettes ($9) are described as “fried rolls stuffed with chicken salad,” but the casing looks more like an egg roll than a croquette, and the chicken salad isn’t the mayonnaise-y variety you’d find at a garden party. The Indonesian version has shredded chicken, boiled eggs, steamed veggies, and peanut sauce. Another popular appetizer, Chicken Satay ($12), is four grilled chicken skewers made “Ponorogo style,” fired over hot coals to bring out sweet and smoky flavors, and served with peanut sauce.
If you visit on a cold day, order the Turmeric Chicken Soup ($14.50), a steaming bowl of turmeric chicken broth, shredded chicken, boiled egg, boiled cabbage, crispy shallots, and scallions. The Nusa Noodles ($14.50) is a heap of stir-fried noodles tossed with shredded chicken, fried eggs, crispy shallots, and scallions. The stir-fry component gives the noodles a rich, savory layer without the grease from a deep fryer. The Nusa Fried Rice ($14.50) is a mound of rice cooked with turmeric and coconut milk and topped with a fried egg. It’s a bit more complex than traditional Chinese fried rice, which can be loaded with sodium, but if you’re torn between the fried rice and noodles, go for the noodles.
All entrées come with a choice of sauce, rice, and three sides. Options include Crispy Chicken ($15), marinated, lightly fried, and topped with savory flakes; Grilled Chicken ($15) with a hint of citrus; and Braised Beef ($18), which is like coconut beef stew—slow-cooked in a rich, aromatic, spiced coconut gravy.
The Crispy Chicken Entrée with turmeric rice, balado egg & tofu, fried noodles, and shrimp chips.
Sauces include tomato garlic, fermented shrimp chili, and garlic chili, which go in order from mild to hot. Add steamed, turmeric, or coconut rice and choose from a lineup of sides like shrimp chips, stir-fried green beans, and balado egg & tofu.
You’d be hard-pressed to come up with a bad combination of meat, rice, and sides. Just go sparingly with the sauces (which come on the side) before you douse your whole plate. The Braised Beef, for example, is so flavorful, with coconut milk, turmeric, and lime leaves, that it doesn’t need anything else.
Don’t leave without trying: Braised Beef ($18), with coconut rice, stewed mixed veggies, stir-fried green beans, and shrimp chips.
Sweet Street Foods include Black Rice Dessert ($6), two square handheld rice cakes that resemble blondies. Coconut Dessert Drink ($6) is similar to boba tea, but instead of boba pearls, it has soft, green noodle-like jellies with coconut milk and palm sugar. The Steam Banana Pudding ($6) looks like a green tamale, wrapped in a banana leaf that peels back to reveal a firm white custard with a banana inside.
Portions are generous, so you’ll probably have leftovers—and not just a few bites for a late-night nibble. The entrée plates can easily feed you for two or three meals (for less than $20!). Some ingredients and flavors might be unfamiliar, but the menu will appeal to anyone who enjoys Asian cuisine and isn’t averse to a few surprises.
TAYLOR BOWLER is the lifestyle editor.
Taylor Bowler
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