In late summer, as poblano chiles ripen and grow to their fullest, chef Iliana de la Vega’s mind turns to chiles en nogada. Each September at her Austin, Texas, restaurant, El Naranjo, she features the dish to highlight the season. With local ingredients representing the red, white, and green colors of the nation’s flag, chiles en nogada have become emblematic of Mexico and are often served as a celebration of Mexican Independence Day.
To make the dish, de la Vega roasts whole poblano chiles until they blister, then stuffs them with a picadillo of sautéed ground beef and pork, tomatoes, apple, candied pineapple, cinnamon, and raisins. The chiles are blanketed in a silky sauce of pureed walnuts, crema, and cream cheese. The final touches — a sprinkle of chopped parsley and pomegranate arils — add color and flavor to the celebration.
Frequently Asked Questions
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What is chiles en nogada?
De la Vega says that contrary to popular legends, chiles en nogada was not created to mark independence; although there are plenty of stories about its origins, its precise history is unknown. What is for certain is that chiles en nogada celebrate the seasonality of the myriad ingredients that go into them. The poblanos are at the peak of their ripeness, as are the pomegranates used to garnish. People in Mexico, especially in Puebla, where the dish originated, gather tender fresh walnuts to use in the sauce, creating an opportunity for the whole family to come together: As families prepare to make this special meal, the children are tasked with peeling the walnuts so the sauce remains perfectly white.
Since shuttering her Oaxaca restaurant and moving to the United States in 2006, de la Vega has relied on the dried walnuts available here. She also now uses candied pineapple in her picadillo instead of acitrón (candied cactus). But the spirit of the collective effort remains intact as de la Vega and her daughter, Ana Torrealba, prepare the chiles at El Naranjo for each year’s celebration. They drape the chiles with that rich sauce, keeping it at room temperature so it doesn’t break, a contrast to the late-summer Texas heat.
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Where can I find candied pineapple?
Candied pineapple, or dried pineapple, is available at most grocery stores or online at nuts.com. Look for candied pineapple slices that are thick-cut and lightly sugared — avoid thin and dehydrated slices or pineapple chunks that are coated in syrup.
Notes from the Food & Wine Test Kitchen
Cut a small slit in each poblano before broiling to allow steam to escape and prevent the chiles from bursting open.
Suggested pairing
Pair this dish with a plummy, black-peppery Syrah, such as Piedrasassi P.S. Santa Barbara.
Make ahead
The meat filling can be made up to one day in advance and stored in an airtight container in the refrigerator. Reheat over medium-low until warm before stuffing peppers.
