There are a lot of exciting things happening in the watch world these days, but, like the price of a latte in Geneva, they tend to be outside the realm of what most people would consider reasonably affordable. This is bad news for anyone with their heart set on an A. Lange & Sohne chronograph, but with the tide of watch mania raising all ships, there’s plenty for the budget-minded watch-fanatic to get excited about, too. You won’t have spotted it anywhere near Watches & Wonders, but Timex’s new Standard Sub-Second is a beautiful, historically relevant, and unimpeachably tasteful watch that can be yours for just $99. Which is as great news for your spring fits as it is for your bank balance.
At a glance, the Standard Sub-Second might look like a lot of other Timex watches (40mm case, brushed silver dial, Arabic numerals, stick hands) but there’s actually a lot going on here. What makes the Standard Sub-Second interesting is the little dial at six o’clock that displays the seconds, otherwise known as a small seconds, sub-seconds, or (in the parlance of Swiss watchmakers) a petite seconde.
Small seconds dials like this were typical on most wristwatches before 1940, when large second hands, a.k.a. center seconds, became increasingly popular. The reason why some watches use sub-seconds and some use center seconds is directly related to how mechanical watch movements work (if you want to know more about that, here’s a delightfully nerdy two-part article on the subject). Suffice to say, small seconds dials like this one are an homage to iconic designs of the 1920s and 1930s like the Patek Philippe Calatrava, IWC Portugieser, and Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso, and they continue to be a hallmark of serious, horology buff-level watches made by brands like Rexhep Rexhepi and Philippe Dufour.
As much as the Timex Standard Sub-Second’s design recalls the classic watches of the early-mid 20th century, its movement is very much a product of the 21st. This Timex (like most) is powered by a quartz movement and not a mechanical one, a distinction that makes it slightly less interesting but a whole lot more affordable. If you like the look and don’t mind changing the battery every few years, the Standard Sub-Second will make an incredibly versatile addition to your wardrobe—particularly during wedding season. With its classic minimalist design and a simple vegan leather strap, it’s the perfect thing to cap off a breezy linen suit, or whatever else the otherwise inscrutable dress code calls for.
Jeremy Freed
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