Maíz Agua Sal Adds Modern Mexican Fare to Wesley Heights – Charlotte Magazine

“Maíz,” “agua,” and “sal” are the Spanish words for corn, water, and salt, the three main ingredients in tortillas. “Más” is also Spanish for “more” (see what they did there?), and it’s a fitting name for this tortilleria and agave bar that opened in Wesley Heights in April. You’re likely to leave wanting more of everything you tasted.

If you were expecting another Tex-Mex or fusion concept, this isn’t it. The scratch kitchen slings pozole, moles, and carnitas, and the tortilla press produces small batches daily using heirloom masa harina (a dried corn dough) sourced from Mexico. Everything you order is made approximately 30 seconds before it lands on your table, and almost any ingredient that didn’t come from Mexico came from a local farm.

MAS is the latest venture from Alyson and Dan Davis, who also operate Craft Tasting Room, Lincoln Street Kitchen and Cocktails, and The Green Room. The 5,000-square-foot restaurant is in the Lower Tuck development off Tuckaseegee and Thrift roads, which is quickly becoming a foodie destination on Charlotte’s west side. In the last two years, the adaptive reuse project has expanded its tenant roster to include Restaurant Constance, Azul Tacos & Beer, and Pizza Baby. 

Twenty-six-year-old Jonathan Olvera, who has worked at Peppervine, Bardo, Leah & Louise, and Dot Dot Dot, leads the kitchen. A first-generation Mexican American, he’s built a menu based on family recipes from the Michoacán region, on the Pacific coast west of Mexico City. His background in fine dining is evident by the quality of the food, but there’s nothing fussy about the presentation at MAS: Think paper menus and aluminum serving trays.

Chef Jonathan Olvera showcases recipes that reflect his family’s roots in the Michoacán region of Mexico.

Bar manager Amanda Britton’s cocktail lineup focuses on specialized agave spirits that she studied on her research and development trips to Mexico. If you’re not well versed in mezcal or Mexican liqueur, servers can direct you without making you feel moronic. The Devil Went Down to Durango ($12) blends tequila, hibiscus cordial, lime, ginger beer, and a splash of Ancho Reyes, a traditional chile liqueur that adds some smokey heat. Keep It Spicy ($14) is a mix of mezcal, Campari, passion fruit, lime, and pepper, which gives it a spicy and herbaceous bite. If you love a frozen bevvy, they can whip you up a Paloma or Pineapple Passion with your tequila of choice (market price). 

Four flavors of Agua Fresca are available by the glass ($5) or pitcher ($16), which you can sip as is or with a shot of tequila (market price). They’ve also got a variety of Mexican beers by the can ($6) or bucket ($24) as well as a curated list of wines by the glass.

The Chips + Guacamole ($9) is a solid starter, but the Elote ($6) steals the show. You’ll get a bowl of charred corn off the cob mixed with mayo, spices, red salsa, and cotija cheese served with a basket of housemade corn tortilla chips. If you’re already a fan of this quintessential Mexican street food, this is some of the best you’ll find in Charlotte. If elote has never impressed you, this will probably change your mind. It’s not slathered in mayo like the hand-held version, and the cotija cheese and squeeze of lime make the corn sweet, savory, and tart all at once. It also makes a spectacular taco garnish, so try to save a few scoops for your entrée.

Carnitas with a side of citrus-mojo sauce and an agua fresca

The “Comida” section of the menu has seven dishes you can order as a main dish or shareable plate (servers recommend the latter). Huarache de Tinga ($15) is a thick blue-corn tortilla topped with chicken, refried pinto beans, crema, and cotija cheese. Mole Rojo ($15) is slow-braised chicken topped with housemade mole and served with yellow rice. Carnitas ($15) is fried pork shoulder topped with citrus-mojo sauce and house pickles. 

Tacos ($5 each) come on white-corn tortillas with your choice of seven proteins. Asada and Carnitas are the most popular, and vegetarian options include Maíz Pico (corn) and Hongos al Pastor (adobo oyster mushrooms). Olvera isn’t heavy-handed with the toppings, so each taco gets a simple garnish of cilantro and onion—and maybe a scoop of elote, if you saved a bit—but when ingredients are this fresh, that’s really all you need. 

“Scratch-made” isn’t just a buzzword here. Mexican culinary tradition is clearly the goal, and MAS has earned its place in what’s becoming the city’s best food corridor. It took nearly two years to open—construction was originally set to begin summer of 2022—but you get the sense that the staff is genuinely excited to be here, and they took their time to get everything right.

TAYLOR BOWLER is the lifestyle editor.