“Do you have any dietary restrictions?”
We both shake our heads, and our server takes our drink orders. I don’t identify as a picky eater; neither does Editor Greg Lacour, who accompanies me to L’Ostrica’s Tasting Menu Experience. We couldn’t do this job if we were.
But this meal challenged and surprised both of our fairly evolved palates—in a good way, mostly. A better question might have been, “Do you have any food aversions?” We would have replied, “Only to oysters, mayonnaise, or any food that jiggles.” (More on that later.) At a restaurant like L’Ostrica, where the $175 tasting menu is eight to 10 courses and includes items with names like “chawanmushi” and “roselle gel,” it’s wise to alert your server to any textures you don’t enjoy, even if most flavors don’t bother you.
The restaurant’s wine selection, curated by former Billy Sunday Beverage Director Stephanie Andrews, is also available for retail purchase.
L’Ostrica (Italian for “oyster”) opened in November in Madison Park, off Montford Drive, in the same building as Waterbean Coffee and Vintage Nail Bar. Co-owners Cat Carter and Eric Ferguson came up with the idea for this 38-seat restaurant over oysters nearly three years ago. Carter is a brand strategist with food writing experience, including for this magazine, and Ferguson has worked at Barrington’s, Good Food on Montford, and Stagioni. The duo, who are also life partners, operated L’Ostrica as a catering business for two years before they opened a physical location. The 2,500-square-foot space also has a Chef’s Market with a curated selection of housemade pastas, sauces, snacks, and sweets.
Ferguson sources heavily from local farmers to create seasonal menus with Italian, Korean, Japanese, and French influences. It’s an ambitious undertaking in a city that’s just starting to embrace tasting menus with dishes whose names we might not be able to pronounce. Ferguson’s not afraid to take chances, a welcome attribute in traditionally traditional Charlotte, where only recently have diners been able to sample items as adventurous as his Caviar on Beet Chicharrón. The lineup we enjoyed in December will be different by the time you read this, so consider this a snapshot of what L’Ostrica serves.
Caviar with Egg Salad – Premium caviar and creamy egg salad top a slice of house-made brioche.
We begin with a Caviar Bite, a crispy beet topped with caviar, cured egg yolk, and crème fraîche—a nice balance of softness and crunch. Next comes The Oyster, which would be divine if you don’t share my belief that the consistency of raw oysters resembles—pardon the crudeness—snot. When our server describes them as “creamy in texture” and a bit “mayonnaise-y,” Greg slides his plate toward me because he likes to see me squirm. I take a deep breath and down my oyster because I take my job seriously, but not even the ají dulce hot sauce could detract from the slimy texture. I slide Greg’s plate back toward him; one gooey mollusk is my limit. When our server returns, Greg admits mayonnaise-y oysters are a nonstarter for him. We press on.
The Lobster Brioche is a delicate tower of toasted brioche, salted cucumbers, and smoked lobster chunks over a spoonful of gochugaru aioli, which gives it a rich, smoky flavor. With our taste receptors all fired up, we’re back on track and excited for our fourth course: chawanmushi.
Our server returns with a small bowl of hot Japanese egg custard topped with chopped mushrooms. I notice that it jiggles, like Jell-O. And smells … unique. We each take a bite and immediately exchange a look of, “Oh, hell, no.” I chase mine with a gulp of water and swallow it like a pill, while Greg gets up with a frantic I-gotta-find-a-restroom-and-spit-this-out-NOW expression. To his mortification, it’s Ferguson who directs him to the men’s room.
We explain to Carter, who checks in on us periodically, that hot egg custard is simply not a dish we can get behind. She graciously removes our bowls and reassures us it’s not for everybody. (That said, if hot, jiggly egg custard is your jam, don’t let us dissuade you. We’re told that guests who are familiar with this dish find it exquisite.)
Our server returns to ask if we have any aversions to raw fish before the next course. We do not. But we’ve clearly earned a reputation as high maintenance. We must prove them wrong.
Hamachi Crudo – A drizzle of Sicilian olive oil, pickled shallot relish, and smoked trout roe make these buttery slices of hamachi even more decadent.
Fortunately, we don’t have to work that hard. The next six courses are superb. The Hamachi Crudo is rich and buttery, the Mushroom Cappelletti is warm and comforting, and the Fresh Catch is expertly seared and served with charred broccolini and extra fish demi-glace to drizzle on top.
Course eight is Pork Terrine, a cylinder of crispy pork shoulder over a dollop of nutty sunchoke purée, drizzled with pan sauce that deepens the savory flavors. Lamb Two Ways is another win, with one seared and one inside a puff pastry. Dessert is Baby Ginger Gelato, a dairy-free coconut gelato spun with fresh ginger, served over candy mushroom crumble, and topped with a Korean sesame cracker. It’s a satisfying, not-too-sweet end to a meal that was anything but predictable.
And that’s the thing about L’Ostrica: You might not love each course—and you might even have a strong dislike for a few that land on your table. But you’ve got to hand it to a chef who takes risks like these. Ferguson’s not here to please the masses. He wants to surprise even the most adventurous eaters and serve dishes that, whatever else you may say about them, you won’t find anywhere else in this city.
4701 Park Road
Hours:
Tasting Menu Experience
5:15-10 p.m., Wednesday-Saturday
Chef’s Market
11 a.m.-3 p.m., Wednesday-Saturday
Sunday Supper
5:30-8 p.m. Sunday
KNOW BEFORE YOU GO: The last seating for the Tasting Menu Experience is at 8:15 p.m., and reservations are required via Tock. A limited number of walk-in seats are available at the bar.
TAYLOR BOWLER is the lifestyle editor.
Taylor Bowler
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