It’s easy to focus on the boldly flavorful fillings in a bánh mì sandwich, but the namesake bread is just as important as what’s stuffed inside it. Unlike a classic baguette, with its well developed crust and golden, wheaty crumb, bánh mì bread is light and tender like white sandwich bread on the inside, while the crust is paper thin with a satisfying crispness that should flake all over your shirt while you eat it.

Serious Eats / Debbie Wee


I grew up in New Orleans East, a neighborhood that has, among other things, Dong Phuong Bakery, which is well known throughout the South for its bánh mì khong. The bread is very similar in texture to New Orleans po’ boy bread, and both, it’s worth pointing out, are remnants of French colonial influence. Locals and out-of-towners alike regularly wait in line for this beloved bánh mì bread.

How to Achieve Bánh Mì Bread’s Tight and Tender Crumb

To get bánh mì bread’s soft, white bread–like texture, you need to develop a stretchy, gluten-rich dough that is slightly sticky, so it can hold all of the air bubbles the yeast will make. There are two main strategies for this: good gluten development and multiple proofs.

The higher protein ratio in bread flour (12 to 14 %) ensures that the dough is strong enough to stretch without tearing as air bubbles form and develop inside during fermentation. Meanwhile, proofing the dough multiple times and punching it down after each proof forces larger air bubbles to both deflate and redistribute more evenly in the dough—it’s the exact opposite strategy of a no-knead dough, which is famous for the much more uneven crumb structure that is produced when bubbles are allowed to form and grow freely.

Serious Eats / Debbie Wee


To further enhance the formation of the bread’s crumb, I add a small amount of lime juice to the dough. While lime juice is a less common ingredient in most home-baked breads, its vitamin C (ascorbic acid) helps strengthen and stabilize gluten in the dough while also speeding up its formation (ascorbic acid is often used in large-scale bread production for this reason).

Proofing and shaping the dough multiple times not only knocks out the larger air bubbles to form smaller even ones, it also helps the loaf hold its final shape, ensuring you don’t end up with bánh mì bread that looks like it lost all its air and went flat. Once again, this is thanks to all those efforts to strengthen the gluten in the dough prior to baking—strength in the dough is the name of the game.

Water and Oil Do Mix: How to Get the Perfect Bánh Mì Bread Crust 

When baking this bread, it is important to spray the exterior of the shaped loaves with some fat (a neutral oil spray is my favorite) and water. The combination of water and fat on the surface of the bánh mì bread is what contributes to the signature crackle effect on the outside of the loaf: The fat helps it brown and shine while the water helps it get crispy. 

Beyond that surface treatment of fat and water, we also want to bake the bread with a good amount of steam in the oven. When breaking into a finished loaf of this bread, you can see all of its layers and hear its shattering crispiness. Steam is key to giving this bread its signature light, airy, and crackly-on-the-outside shell. To create steam in your home oven, you simply need a spray bottle of water to spray the inside of the oven when placing the loaves inside to bake. I also like to keep a tray of water in the oven while it is preheating, to create the perfect humid environment for the bánh mì bread.

Serious Eats / Debbie Wee


You don’t have to eat bánh mì bread only as part of the famed sandwich. The bread is often enjoyed all on its own. While I love a good bánh mì stuffed with all the fixings, what I really love is to tear into a fresh loaf of bánh mì bread and dip it into hot Vietnamese coffee with condensed milk, or slathered with a Vietnamese aïoli made with egg, oil, fish sauce, and spices. With the recipe, you don’t even need to choose just one option—do them all!

Bánh Mì Khong (Bánh Mì Bread)

With its signature tender crumb and shatteringly crisp exterior, this Vietnamese bread is perfect for making bánh mì sandwiches.

  • 450g (3 1/2 cups) bread flour
  • 7g (1 1/2 teaspoons) instant yeast (see note)
  • 7g (1 3/4 teaspoons) Diamond Crystal kosher salt; for table salt, use half as much by volume or the same weight
  • 270g (1 1/4 cups) tepid water
  • 25g (2 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon) canola or other neutral flavored oil
  • 15g (1 tablespoon) fresh lime juice
  • 12g (2 teaspoons) sugar
  • Nonstick cooking spray
  1. In a stand mixer bowl, whisk flour, yeast, and salt to combine. In a liquid measuring cup or bowl, whisk water, oil, lime juice, and sugar until sugar is dissolved.

    Serious Eats / Debbie Wee


  2. Fit stand mixer with dough hook, and on medium-low speed, slowly pour water mixture into flour mixture and mix until a shaggy dough forms, about 2 minutes. Increase the speed to medium and continue to mix, scraping down bowl and dough hook as needed, until the dough is smooth and stretchy and clears the sides of bowl, but sticks to the bottom, about 5 minutes.

    Serious Eats / Debbie Wee


  3. Using clean hands, transfer dough to a lightly oiled work surface and knead by hand to form a smooth, round ball, about 30 seconds. Place dough seam side down in a lightly greased large bowl. Cover bowl with plastic wrap and let sit at warm room temperature (75°F/24°C) until doubled in size, 1 to 1 1/2 hours.

    Serious Eats / Debbie Wee


  4. Transfer dough to a lightly oiled work surface. Using your hands, punch dough down to deflate, then form it into a taut ball, and let rest, covered, for 20 minutes.

    Serious Eats / Debbie Wee


  5. Divide dough into 4 even portions for longer banh mi loaves or 6 dough portions for shorter loaves (see notes). Lightly spray the dough portions all over with cooking spray, cover with plastic wrap, and let rest for 15 minutes.

    Serious Eats / Debbie Wee


  6. Working with one dough portion at a time, pull edges of the dough towards the center, pinching ends together, to create a tight ball. Set dough ball seam side down on work surface, then cup dough beneath your palm and work it in quick circular motion to form a smooth ball. Repeat with remaining portions of dough. Let rest, covered, for 15 minutes.

    Serious Eats / Debbie Wee


  7. Flip each dough ball so that the seam side is on top. Working with one dough ball at a time, use your fingers to press down and deflate two-thirds of the ball; the remaining one-third of the dough ball should still be airy and plump with an elongated football shape.

    Serious Eats / Debbie Wee


  8. Using a small, lightly oiled French tapered rolling pin or other small rolling pin, roll the deflated side of dough until it is evenly flat and fans outward (for smaller loaves about 10 inches wide and 1/8 inch thick; for larger loaves, 12 inches wide and 1/8 inch thick), while keeping the inflated portion of the dough untouched (this ensures the center of each will be full and fluffy). The rolled out portion of the dough should be longer than the still inflated portion of the dough.

    Serious Eats / Debbie Wee


  9. Using both hands and starting with the still-inflated portion of dough, gently roll the dough over itself to form a log; continue rolling until a longer baguette forms with tapered ends (you should have a tapered baguette measuring about 1 1/2 inches thick in the middle that is about 8 inches long for smaller loaves and 10 inches long for larger ones). Gently press and pinch seam closed along the length of loaf.

    Serious Eats / Debbie Wee


  10. Transfer shaped loaf, seam side down, to a perforated baguette tray that has been lightly coated with cooking spray (see notes). Repeat loaf shaping with remaining portions of dough, then spray the loaves evenly with cooking spray and loosely cover with plastic wrap. Let rest until the dough springs back slowly when pressed lightly, about 45 minutes. 

    Serious Eats / Debbie Wee


  11. Meanwhile, adjust oven racks to the upper-middle position and the lowest position. Place a large baking dish on the bottom oven rack and fill halfway with boiling water. Preheat oven to 475°F (246°C). 

    Serious Eats / Debbie Wee


  12. Holding a bread lame concave side up, with handle oriented at a 30-degree angle to loaf, make one 1/4-inch deep slash along the centerline of each loaf, using a single swift motion from one end to the other, but leaving 1/2-inch uncut at each end.

    Serious Eats / Debbie Wee


  13. Using a spray bottle of water, mist the surface of each loaf. Working quickly, place loaves in the oven, then mist the inside walls of the oven with water. Bake loaves for 8 minutes, then rotate the tray and bake 4 minutes longer. 

    Serious Eats / Debbie Wee


  14. Reduce oven temperature to 400°F (205°C) and continue to bake loaves until golden brown all over, 6 to 8 minutes. If the bottoms of the loaves have not achieved the desired color, flip loaves upside down and bake until bottoms are golden brown, 2 to 3 minutes. Transfer loaves to a wire rack and let cool for at least 15 minutes before serving.

    Serious Eats / Debbie Wee


Special Equipment

Stand mixer with dough hook attachment, French tapered or other small rolling pin, perforated baguette tray (preferred) or rimmed baking sheet, bread lame, spray bottle of water

Notes

Take care: instant yeast is not the same as active dry yeast. We prefer it for its longer shelf life and the fact that it does not require blooming before using in a recipe (read more about different types of yeast here).

Bánh mì loaves are typically smaller in size for individual sandwiches, which is what 6 portions of dough will produce, but feel free to make slightly larger ones by dividing into 4 portions instead.

A perforated baguette tray will produce the best results, but if you don’t have one you can use a rimmed baking sheet, though the breads will need to be formed very well to bake into the proper shape.

If baking 6 loaves: Most baguette trays you should be able to to fit two 8-inch loaves in one channel to bake the full batch at once, but if for some reason your tray can’t accommodate all 6 at once when making the smaller size loaves, set 2 aside and bake after the first round.

Make-Ahead and Storage

Dough can be made ahead, covered, and refrigerated overnight to bulk proof in step 1. Let dough sit at room temperature for 30 minutes before shaping.

Baked loaves can be stored in paper bags at room temperature for up to 2 days. If the bread’s crust becomes soft, moisten the entire loaf with water before reheating in a 375°F (190°C) oven until hot and crispy.

Nini Nguyen

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