How to get rid of blackheads correctly, according to the derms

The difference between them and you, is they know the best techniques to lift the blackhead away without causing scarring or damage to the surrounding skin. Often they’ll steam your skin first to loosen things up. And, if using their fingers, they use a rolling method with the pad of their fingers to ease the blackhead out gently. Nails should never be used for squeezing.

The pros are in consensus – they don’t advocate you squeezing blackheads yourself, as you can actually risk pushing the blackhead deeper into the skin. “When trying to remove blackheads, it’s crucial not to squeeze or pick at them aggressively as this can lead to scarring or infection,” warns Dr Kemi. “Instead, opt for a gentle approach and your GP or dermatologist for prescription strength treatments,” she says. Aesthetic medical practitioner, Dr Bhavjit Kaur, notes: “a consistent skincare routine [more on that below] and pore strips in moderation can remove them.”

How to prevent blackheads

The best way to prevent blackheads is to prevent the follicles from becoming blocked in the first place. For this, exfoliating is key as it removes dirt, grime, excess sebum and dead skin cells before they have a chance to settle in follicles. “Exfoliation removes that upper layer of dead skin cells. So effectively, you’re preventing everything including old skin cells, dirt and makeup, from getting blocked inside that top layer of pores,” says Dr Anjali.

Just be careful not to over exfoliate. “Don’t be fooled into thinking that exfoliating your skin several times a week will make it better, quicker – you don’t want to over stimulate your skin or over sensitise it as this will be counter productive,” says Tracey Smith, facialist and founder of Ashmira Botanica skincare. If your skin tends to be more sensitive, dry or reactive ease in by exfoliating just once a week, and increase frequency depending on how your skin responds.

Salicylic acid

“My favourite way to treat blackheads is with salicylic acid,” says Dr Bhavjit Kaur. “It’s a BHA (beta hydroxy acid) and the only acid that is oil soluble. It works its way into the pores and breaks up the dead trapped cells and excess sebum – and when used consistently, it has fabulous results in less than two weeks.”

AHAs

“AHAs (alpha-hydroxy-acids) are really good for treating blackheads – look for glycolic acids and lactic acids,” says Dr Anjali. AHAs work to promote skin shedding and exfoliation (much like salicylic), polishing away dead skin on the surface level. Lactic acid, in particular, is one of the most gentle chemical exfoliators since it rehydrates as it goes. So if you’re skin is ultra sensitive, it may be a better option. Or, find a cleanser that blends both salicylic acid and lactic acid, like the Sarah Chapman Skinesis Rapid Radiance Cleanse.

Azelaic acid

Neither an AHA or a BHA (just to confuse things), azelaic acid works in a similar way to AHAs by penetrating the skin and breaking up the contents of clogged pores but is more suitable for those with extremely sensitive skin says Dr Bhavjit. “It also kills the bacteria known as P.acnes which is responsible for inflammation and pus formation in acne,” she says.