Efo Riro Recipe (Nigerian Stewed Greens)

We have hundreds of recipes in Nigerian cuisine featuring greens as the main component, and efo riro, which translates from Yoruba as “stirred” or “mixed” greens, is a popular recipe that’s also simple to prepare. It features fresh amaranth leaves, plum tomatoes, and smoky unrefined red palm oil, and is often seasoned with ground crayfish (a powder made from smoked and/or dried shrimp), fermented nuts and seeds like locust beans (also known as iru in Yoruba), and ground red chile peppers. 

Amaranth comes in many varieties. For this dish, I like to use cockscomb amaranth, also known as efo shoko, Lagos spinach, or celosia, which is native to West Africa. This variety of amaranth  has green leaves (sometimes tinted with purple) and vibrant pink-, magenta-, and plum-colored flowers. When stewed, the leaves become soft and silky and the flavor is sweet and mild, similar to spinach. While there’s no perfect substitute for cockscomb amaranth, a combination of equal parts amaranth leaves (also known as callaloo), a leafy green whose flavor is similar to spinach, and spinach will work (you can also use all spinach). Plus, if fresh greens are difficult to source, you can use frozen ones in a pinch. 

Efo riro is built on a handful of components that come together to create layered and complex flavors and textures. This particular recipe incorporates tender cubes of beef chuck roast, but you can use fresh seafood like fish or prawns, sautéed mushrooms, or smoked proteins like catfish, chicken, or turkey instead. I blanch my greens separately because I find that the stew’s flavors come through better, and I love the silky, satiny texture the greens take on. In comparison, I’ve found that if I wilt the greens directly in the stew, the overall flavor is more distinct and vegetal, which is not what efo riro is about.  

Then, there are onions, which are gently fried in rich, unrefined palm oil until soft and sweet. The stew gets an additional aromatic depth from the dried crayfish, optional fermented locust beans, and raw sliced tomato. A purée of raw onion, red bell pepper, and tomato is poured into it all, creating a flavorful cooking medium that is naturally thickened by the puréed vegetable fibers. There’s chile heat in two forms, fresh Scotch bonnet and dried chile powder, which should always be adjusted to suit one’s taste and heat tolerance. The final step of adding the cooked beef and wilted greens ties the stew together. And that’s it, your efo riro is ready to be enjoyed with white rice, eba, and a host of other things.