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  • Video: Herbal Apple Cider Vinegar Hair Rinse for Healthy Hair (with Video)

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    Cue the hair flip! Add this herbal hair rinse to your hair care routine and you’ll notice an immediate difference. Made from completely natural ingredients, this apple cider vinegar hair rinse works hard to correct your scalp’s pH and in turn give you stronger, healthier, and gorgeous hair.

    Switching to an all-natural hair care routine is one of the best things I’ve ever done for my hair. Seriously! I was shocked at the results once I started to make my own dry shampoo, conditioner, hair serum, and now my very own herbal hair rinse.

    While a ton of people are switching towards a “clean” skincare routine, I have noticed that few people have yet to embrace an all-natural hair care routine.

    I could not recommend it enough. Everyone’s hair is so different and by creating your own products, you can cater to your own hair type. Curly, straight, dry, oily…there is a hair recipe for you. My ACV hair rinse is the newest step to my hair care routine and I would never do without it again!

    What is Hair Rinse?

    herbs infusing in mason jar next to apple cider vinegar hair rinse

    A herbal hair rinse is an added hair care step that you do while in the shower. It works to nourish the hair naturally with infused herbs. Most importantly though, it will restore and balance the pH of your hair! I’ll explain a little later why this is SO important.

    I learned about using a hair rinse from my friend and Herbalist Robin from Garden Mentors. She only uses the hair rinse without any other products and she has gorgeous, shiny hair. I have been playing with recipes and testing it out with my hair for over a year and I have not been able to seamlessly make the transition to not using shampoo and conditioner.

    To get there, your hair needs to get used to not having shampoo remove the natural oil. This means that your scalp will produce A LOT of excess oil for a while until it balances out again. I plan to go full “no poo” method one day, but for now, I use the rinse as part of my routine and it works wonders for me. No more itchy or dry scalp and I can go a week between washings with ease. Baby steps!

    Robin has a lovely herbal hair rinse in her Etsy Shop. be sure to check it out!

    It has quickly become an essential step in my natural hair care routine. By making my own DIY hair rinse, I know where all the ingredients are coming from and can avoid all the harsh chemicals and fragrances that are common in hair care products.

    The Best Herbs to Add to an Apple Cider Vinegar Hair Rinse

    Mason jars filled with dried herbs to make an herbal hair rinse.

    Adding herbs to your hair rinse can make all the difference. Herbs are full of beneficial properties that once infused, can add a ton of benefits for your hair. Below, I’ve outlined some of the best herbs for hair and how they can help.

    Choose which herbs will aid you best for your own customized herbal hair rinse. Ask yourself, which herb will work best for my hair type? The “best for” notes under each section will help you decide if the herb is right for you.

    Horsetail

    One of the most well-known herbs for hair, horsetail is probably found in some of your favourite hair care products. It has a ton of antioxidant properties which can add sheen and strengthen the hair.

    It contains silica, selenium, and cysteine which are all known to promote hair growth. Overall, it is a must-have for those looking to improve overall hair condition.

    Best for: all hair types and those looking to strengthen hair and promote growth.

    Rosemary

    sprig of rosemary next to a mason jar of calendula herb

    Rosemary has always been a top ingredient in my hair care recipes as it works to improve scalp circulation and nerve growth. Why is this important? Improved circulation in the scalp prevents hair follicles from not getting enough blood supply and dying off, leading to hair loss.

    It also has antiseptic and antibacterial properties which can aid in preventing dandruff and lice. I’d like to avoid the two as much as possible!

    Best for: increasing scalp circulation and promoting hair growth.

    Lavender

    Aromatherapy’s most popular scent, lavender is known to have a calming effect on the body. This extends to hair as well, where its antimicrobial properties helps to calm issues like itchiness and dandruff by preventing bacteria and fungi from growing. It also works to soothe scalp inflammation and dryness.

    A few studies have backed up lavender’s hair claims, where it has been known to be useful in preventing head lice and help with pattern baldness and alopecia in mice.

    Best for: soothing skin irritations and irregularities due to its antimicrobial properties.

    Nettles

    Rich in minerals like iron, magnesium, and zinc, your hair follicles will love nettles. It’s anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties also work to protect the scalp from damage and promote new hair growth. This also makes it an aid in treating dandruff.

    Like horsetail, it also has high levels of silica. Combined with high levels of natural sulphur, it makes the hair shinier and healthier.

    Best for: dry and damaged hair as it helps to strengthen and promote growth.

    Calendula

    Jar of dried calendula next to rosemary sprig

    Beautiful on the outside and the inside, calendula is packed full of helpful hair properties. It is anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, and antiviral, making it useful in improving scalp conditions. Calendula fights dandruff, rashes, and other dry skin issues, as well as helping to speed up recovery time for wounds or damaged hair follicles.

    It also contains flavonoids and carotenoids, two antioxidants that protect from sun and environmental damage to hair.

    Best for: hair that needs extra protection and improving overall scalp condition.

    The Benefits of an Apple Cider Vinegar Hair Rinse

    Apple cider vinegar has long been a household remedy favourite. Want to preserve food? Apple cider vinegar. Want to lose weight? Apple cider vinegar. Want shiny, glorious hair? Apple cider vinegar.

    apple cider vinegar next to a bottle of water

    Maintaining a Good pH

    Apple cider vinegar is made from fermenting apples with live cultures, minerals, and acids. Like most vinegar, it is an acidic substance and contains high levels of acetic acid. While applying something acidic to your hair may seem scary, it is actually super beneficial. Here’s why!

    Our hair and scalp have an acid mantle (like the rest of our skin) that requires a healthy pH balance in order to have happy hair. The normal pH of your hair should range between 4.5-5.5 when it is healthy.

    However, most hair products don’t keep pH in mind; colouring, bleaching, and even something as simple as shampoo can throw the pH of your hair off balance. When hair is brittle, dull, or fizzy, it is likely more alkaline and ranges higher on the pH scale than normal.

    That’s where the apple cider vinegar hair rinse comes in!

    Using an acidic substance on the hair can help to balance out the hair and lower the pH. By maintaining a good pH, you are preventing unwanted hair breakage all while maintaining a healthy amount of natural oils. Sebum, our skin’s natural oil, is essential in keeping our hair glossy and strong.

    Other Wonderful Hair Benefits

    Beyond maintaining the pH of our hair, the apple cider vinegar hair rinse has some other benefits as well. Since apple cider vinegar is a popular disinfectant due to its antimicrobial properties, it can aid in treating itchiness and dandruff.

    It is also rich in minerals, especially ones that are good for the hair such as Vitamin C and B.

    Lastly, it gets out that stubborn product that won’t go away even after you give it a good scrub with your best shampoo. If you used a ton of hairspray to achieve that perfect 80’s look for Halloween or layered up on the dry shampoo for longer than you would like to admit, apple cider vinegar has your back. Since it is more acidic than regular shampoo, it can help to gently remove the product, dead skin cell build up, and grime.

    Video: Watch How to Make Herbal Hair Rinse!

    In this video, I’ll walk you through what a herbal hair rinse is, my favorite herbs to use, and how to make this hair rinse step by step.

    Be sure to subscribe to the Garden Therapy YouTube page to get more awesome video content!

    YouTube video

    How to Infuse Your Apple Cider Vinegar

    apple cider vinegar infused with dried herbs for hair

    Before you can use your apple cider vinegar hair rinse, you will need to infuse the vinegar first. To do so, you will want to measure out your herbs. Choose from the herb list above and find which ones best match your hair type. By customizing your herbal hair rinse with the right herbs, you will get the most benefits.

    Place your herbs in a quart mason jar or any other container that will seal tightly. Add at least 3 tbsp each of your desired herbs. Fill the jar with your apple cider vinegar and give it a good shake.

    Jar of herbs infusing in apple cider vinegar to make a ACV hair rinse

    Your mixture will need to sit for 2-4 weeks. This allows the vinegar to be fully infused with the herbal properties and scents. Waiting is tough, but necessary!

    After your vinegar is infused, you can strain the herbs and store the rinse in a glass bottle.

    straining out herbs from an herbal hair rinse

    How to Use This Apple Cider Vinegar Hair Rinse

    Now that you’ve been patient and your vinegar is ready to go, it’s time to use your herbal hair rinse!

    1. Dilute Your Mixture

    ACV next to a jar of water

    The first thing you will want to do is dilute your vinegar. While apple cider vinegar helps to balance hair, you don’t want to overdo it and make your hair more acidic or risk harming your skin.

    To dilute your vinegar, add approximately ¼ cup of infused vinegar with 1 pint of water into a squeeze bottle. If after using you find that your hair is still too oily, reduce the amount of vinegar to 1/8 cup. If it feels too dry, try increasing the amount of vinegar to ½ cup.

    All hair will react differently, so use your best judgment.

    2. Apply to Hair

    The herbal hair rinse is best applied after you have shampooed your hair. Use the squeeze bottle to apply to your roots and massage it into the scalp. Next, use a wide-tooth comb to go through the hair and get rid of all the tangles. Squish and scrunch your hair to ensure it really soaks in throughout your hair.

    plastic squeeze bottle filled with a homemade apple cider vinegar hair rinse made with infused herbs

    3. Rinse Well

    Rinse out your hair well and then apply conditioner to help mask the smell. Though, after diluting the vinegar and infusing it with herbs, the smell isn’t as strong as you may think. I like to use my homemade conditioner as it has a ton of yummy essential oils to leave my hair smelling fantastic.

    I use my herbal hair rinse once a week, but you can use it as often as you prefer. And voila! You should notice a huge difference in your hair pretty fast. Shiny and healthy hair is always in!

    More Hair Care Posts to Read:

    DIY Apple Cider Vinegar Hair Rinse

    Keep your hair shiny and healthy with this simple herbal hair rinse! Apple cider vinegar promotes healthy pH while herbs are tailored to help your specific type of hair shine.

    • quart mason jar 

    • strainer

    • plastic squeeze bottle

    Herbs that Help Your Hair Goals (use at least 3 tbsp of one or several of the herbs below)

    • horsetail works for all hair types including those looking to strengthen hair and promote growth
    • lavender use to soothe skin irritations and irregularities
    • nettles best for dry and damaged hair
    • rosemary  use to increase circulation and promote hair growth
    • calendula  use for hair that needs extra protection and to improve scalp condition
    • apple cider vinegar 

    Infuse the Apple Cider Vinegar with Herbs

    • Choose herbs that best meet your hair goals from the above list. Measure out at least 3 tbsp of dried herbs to use.

    • Place the herbs in a quart-sized mason jar, then pour in enough apple cider vinegar to fill the jar.

    • Let the herbs steep for 2-4 weeks to get the most benefits possible.

    Dilute the ACV Hair Rinse

    • Strain out the herbs from the ACV mixture. Discard the herbs.

    • In a shower-safe plastic squeeze bottle, add 1/4 cup of infused ACV with 1 pint of water and apply to hair after shampooing. Rinse well and apply conditioner.

    YouTube video

    If your hair feels too oily, reduce the amount of herbal apple cider vinegar to 1/4 cup. If your hair feels overly dry, increase the amount to 1/2 cup.

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    Stephanie Rose

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  • The Ultimate Indoor-Outdoor Country House: Pinch Design in Devon

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    Every once in a while, we come across a story on sibling site Remodelista that would be just as at home here on Gardenista. Such is the case with Margot’s recent post on the refined, naturalistic Devon home of Russell Pinch and Oona Bannon.

    “The two together run Pinch, a London furniture company that is all about refined details, honest materials, and unstinting craftsmanship. They had already devoted years to turning a cow shed in France into a vacation retreat for themselves and their two daughters. Did they have the stamina and the savings for another pipe dream?” writes Margot of their latest project.

    Reader, they did. Working closely with award-winning architect David Kohn and landscape architect James Hamilton, the couple crafted a singular home that feels authentically rooted in nature—which is why we’re spotlighting it on Gardenista, too.

    Have a look. And be sure to head to Remodelista for the full story (and more photos).

    Photography by Michael Sinclair, courtesy of Pinch.

    Russell and Oona founded Pinch in 2004 �220;to create furniture and lighting we would want to live with�221;—they recently celebrated Pinch�217;s 20th anniversary by opening a showroom in NYC. The furnishings throughout are Pinch designs mixed in with antiques.
    Above: Russell and Oona founded Pinch in 2004 “to create furniture and lighting we would want to live with”—they recently celebrated Pinch’s 20th anniversary by opening a showroom in NYC. The furnishings throughout are Pinch designs mixed in with antiques.
    The couple�217;s kitchen garden flanks a flagstone entry path. Russell tells us that they initially wanted to be able to park in front—�221;but in reality, it was awful to walk by the car to get to the front door, so we immediately ripped that out and put in vegetables.�221; The concrete-framed stainless steel door alludes to the property�217;s factory past.
    Above: The couple’s kitchen garden flanks a flagstone entry path. Russell tells us that they initially wanted to be able to park in front—”but in reality, it was awful to walk by the car to get to the front door, so we immediately ripped that out and put in vegetables.” The concrete-framed stainless steel door alludes to the property’s factory past.
    The central new building is clad in locally quarried pink sandstone edged with reclaimed brick. �220;The back of the house overlooks a newly introduced one-acre wild flower meadow. Russell and Oona worked with landscape designer James Hamilton who planted, among other things, some 500 trees on the rolling property. The combined structures are 2,400 square feet and were recently named UK House & Garden�217;s Project of the Year.
    Above: The central new building is clad in locally quarried pink sandstone edged with reclaimed brick. “The back of the house overlooks a newly introduced one-acre wild flower meadow. Russell and Oona worked with landscape designer James Hamilton who planted, among other things, some 500 trees on the rolling property. The combined structures are 2,400 square feet and were recently named UK House & Garden’s Project of the Year.

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  • Linda’s Flower Gardens in Illinois – Fine Gardening

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    Hi GPODers!

    As the years progress in our gardens, we witness change. Many of these transformations are inevitable due to the changing seasons, condition fluctuations, and life-cycle stages of our plants. As humans, we also experience change alongside our gardens, and sometimes that dictates how our landscapes evolve. Linda in Kinmundy, Illinois (Zone 6), has seen her space transform quite a bit over the past four decades, but it will soon be time for another major transformation. As she considers the more low-maintenance plants that will make her gardens easier for her to enjoy, we get to see some fantastic photos of her flower-filled landscape at its peak.

    I have been gardening here for over 40 years. My husband and I built the house (literally—a contractor framed and roofed it, and we did the rest), and then I started making flower beds. My husband isn’t interested in gardening, but he is very good to create hardscaping for me. He has built me a greenhouse, pergola, and tunnel arbor, and installed lovely old iron fencing, among other things. Now I am at the point where I need to think about downsizing, but that doesn’t really mean getting rid of anything—just focusing on shrubs, Japanese maples, flowering trees, and lots of ground cover.

    The first bed I made: I’m trying to transition it to shrubs and small trees.

    gardens around large lawn areaOf course, that first bed was far from the last. Several flower-filled plantings are scattered about Linda’s spacious property.

    garden bed full of hot colored flowersMy hot bed

    meadow garden in bloomLinda has achieved what many dream of: a gorgeous meadow garden that is full of blooms and still manages to not look messy. These timeless, wild plantings have tons of appeal but can require a decent amount of maintenance if you want consistent blooming. Incorporating more shrubs, trees, and ground covers into these plantings will make them far easier to maintain.

    front garden with lots of flowersLinda’s front garden is equally floral. Even after she makes her transition to lower-maintenance plantings, the usual arrangement of foundation shrubs will not be found here.

    view of front garden from porchThe view from the front porch

    shade garden with various green foliage plantsWhen I was younger, I wanted lots of color, but I am learning the joys of green.

    buckets of freshly cut dahliasDahlias are kind of high-maintenance, but I can’t give them up yet.

    trees with fall colorLastly, as the flowers fade, the foliage in Linda’s garden gives her one final show of color to round out the year. While the prospect of saying goodbye to her high-maintenance beds must be a daunting one, there is the silver lining of even more fall-color possibilities to look forward to.

    Thank you so much for sharing your stunning gardens with us, Linda! The flower beds you have crafted are enviable, but I’m sure the more low-maintenance designs you create will be just as delightful.

    What changes are you planning on making in your garden this year? Is it time to downsize like Linda, or is there still room in your landscape for brand-new beds and exciting additions? Let us know in the comments, or consider sharing photos of last year’s garden so we can really enjoy your “after” photos later in the season. Follow the NEW directions below to submit your photos to Garden Photo of the Day!

     

    We want to see YOUR garden!

    Have photos to share? We’d love to see your garden, a particular collection of plants you love, or a wonderful garden you had the chance to visit!

    To submit, fill out the Garden Photo of the Day Submission Form.

    You can also send 5–10 photos to [email protected] along with some information about the plants in the pictures and where you took the photos. We’d love to hear where you are located, how long you’ve been gardening, successes you are proud of, failures you learned from, hopes for the future, favorite plants, or funny stories from your garden.

    Do you receive the GPOD by email yet? Sign up here

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    GPOD Contributor

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  • The Best Seeds to Start in February: 4 Easy Options

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    Seeds to Start in February: 4 Easy Options for Indoor Seed Sowing





























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    Niki Jabbour

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  • 7 questions to ask before buying sliding doors for your family home – Growing Family

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    Collaborative post

    Picture a typical day in a family home. Some are full of movement, with children running in and out of the garden, pets close behind, and doors opening and closing almost constantly. Other days are much calmer, when you can sit back, admire the view and enjoy a cup of coffee in peace. Sliding patio doors support these moments, becoming part of everyday family life rather than just a design feature.

    That’s why choosing the right sliding doors goes beyond looks. Below we answer the key questions worth asking before investing in them.

    sliding doors in a home opening onto the garden
    Sunroom with wide open sliding doors with wooden and wicker furniture inside and a stone tile walkway and grassed garden

    1. Are sliding patio doors safe for children?

    If you have children, safety is usually a high priority when it comes to home renovations. The good news is that modern sliding patio doors can be very safe when designed properly. Most quality systems use toughened or laminated safety glass, which is far more resistant to impact and won’t break into sharp pieces if damaged.

    Secure locking mechanisms help prevent little hands from opening the doors unexpectedly, while stable frames reduce movement even with frequent use. Smooth, controlled sliding also means fewer sudden movements – something every parent appreciates.

    2. What type of sliding door is the best?

    In recent years, two materials have become a top choice: uPVC and aluminium.

    If you’re looking for strong thermal insulating properties, low maintenance costs, and an affordable price, uPVC sliding doors are an excellent option. They have good weather resistance and help maintain a comfortable living environment throughout the year without hassle.

    Alternatively, if you want something more durable with a contemporary character, aluminium sliding doors may meet your criteria very well. With their thinner frame, they provide larger glass openings, let in more natural light, and use cutting-edge thermal break technology which improves overall energy performance.

    When choosing between uPVC and aluminium, it helps to think about how the doors will be used every day – this makes the decision much clearer.

    sliding doors opening onto a garden in a modern homesliding doors opening onto a garden in a modern home

    3. Are sliding doors energy efficient?

    Sometimes, people worry that large glass doors will let heat escape, especially in homes where comfort is important all year. The reality is that well-made sliding doors can actually keep your home warm. Features like insulated frames and triple glazing help stop draughts and hold in heat during the colder months.

    Energy-efficient sliding doors may also help lower your heating bills over time. Choose the right product and you can enjoy glass doors without giving up warmth.

    4. How much space do sliding doors need?

    Sliding doors are often praised for saving space, and they do, compared to traditional hinged doors. However, they still need thoughtful planning. In simple terms, sliding doors usually need wall or track space equal to the width of the door panel. In systems with multiple panels, each panel needs its own sliding space unless the panels overlap.

    This can influence where furniture sits and how the room flows on a daily basis. Have you thought about how the doors will work with your sofa, dining table or children’s play area? Considering these details early helps avoid compromises later on.

    living room with sliding doors onto patioliving room with sliding doors onto patio

    5. Are sliding patio doors suitable for older or less mobile users?

    Many family homes are shared across generations, so accessibility is very important. Sliding patio doors can be suitable for older people or those with reduced mobility, thanks to a feature called low threshold. This is an aluminium part of the door frame that stays nearly level with the floor, rather than creating a high step.

    Low thresholds help prevent tripping and make it easier to move between inside and outside.This detail is useful for people who use a wheelchair, parents pushing a pram, or those who simply prefer step-free access.

    6. Can sliding doors be customised?

    No two homes are the same, and today’s sliding door systems are designed to adapt to different homes and family lifestyles. Huge size? Brave frame colour? Or slim frames with plenty of glass? No problem for a trusted supplier like Fenbro. They offer made-to-measure solutions that adapt to individual homes rather than relying on typical catalogue options.

    7.Are sliding patio doors safe for pets?

    This type of entrance can work very well in homes with animals. Safety glass helps protect against accidental bumps from larger dogs, while silent sliding reduces sudden movements that might startle animals.

    Low or flush thresholds make it easier for pets to move in and out freely. A stable, well-built system also means fewer issues over time.

    After reading this article, you should have answers to the most important questions about buying sliding doors. Safety, personalisation, accessibility, and daily comfort are all key areas to consider. Focusing on these makes it easier to pick solutions that fit your family and how you use your home and garden. The right doors will help your indoor and outdoor spaces flow together every day.

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    Catherine

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  • Plant-O-Rama Celebrates 30 Years: Here Are 7 Ideas We Took Away from the Symposium – Gardenista

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    After a surprise snow day reschedule, Metro Hort Group hosted its 30th Plant-O-Rama last Thursday morning at the Brooklyn Botanic Garden. Every year, hundreds of horticultural professionals descend on BBG for this symposium, trade show, and career fair. It is the signature event of Metro Hort, a member-based organization for horticulture professionals in the tri-state area. 

    This year’s symposium included keynote speeches by celebrated horticulturalist and author James Hitchmough and Green-Wood Cemetery‘s Joseph Charap and Sara Evans, its vice president of horticulture and director of the Living Collections, respectively. The symposium closed out with a panel discussions on the topic of “Gardens: Nurturing Plants, Communities, and People” with leaders from four of New York City’s horticulturally focused non-profit organizations: Andrea Parker of Gowanus Canal Conservancy; Jennifer Beaugrand of The Bronx is Blooming; Lisa Bloodgood of North Brooklyn Parks Alliance; and Tonya Gayle of Green City Force. All of it was wonderfully inspiring.

    Here are seven ideas to steal from this annual event:

    1. Aim for hyper-diversity.

    Above: Hitchmough managed to cram an astonishing 700 plant taxa into his former garden in Sheffield. Photograph by Richard Bloom.

    Horticulturalist, author, and emeritus professor of horticultural ecology at the University of Sheffield James Hitchmough kicked off the day with a lecture titled “Evaluating the Complexity and Diversity of Designed Herbaceous Plantings.” While many American ecological horticulturalists are focused on native plants, Hitchmough is more concerned with creating “hyperdiversity” in gardens to support biodiversity. He believes species-rich landscapes that include both native and non-invasive exotics can look exciting throughout the growing season and can reduce the seasonal hunger gaps for generalist invertebrates.  

    2. Use color as a “trojan horse.”

    Above: Hitchmough’s next personal project is his 2.5 acre garden and woodpasture-native meadow in rural Somerset, where he is putting his lifetime of research findings into practice. Photograph courtesy of James Hitchmough.

    Hitchmough’s advice for persuading more people to appreciate a naturalistic planting style is to use color as a “trojan horse.” In his research Hitchmough once grew a meadow in a public park and quizzed parkgoers about their feelings about the naturalistic planting at different stages of blossom. Park goers were much more likely to admire the wilder style when it included an abundance and variety of color. Tip: One of the ways that Hitchmough achieves hyperdiversity and continuous color is by planting what he calls an “understory” to the herbaceous layer of his gardens that blooms earlier in the season. 

    3. Lean on native “weeds.”

    Evans revealed that she often finds herself choosing native plants that are considered “weedy,” like little bluestem, because she’d rather be taming an overenthusiastic native than an invasive outsider like mugwort. It’s also an extremely cost-effective tactic. Elsewhere, Evans is paying attention to volunteer plants: When Clatonia virginiana popped up in a lawn area, they roped it off from mowing and after several years of blooming and setting seed, the spring ephemeral has spread to form drifts. 

    4. Plant baby trees. Baby old trees.

    At Green-Wood Cemetery horticulturalists are doing everything they can to preserve their mature trees, including propping up limbs. Photograph by Sara Evans.
    Above: At Green-Wood Cemetery horticulturalists are doing everything they can to preserve their mature trees, including propping up limbs. Photograph by Sara Evans.

    Much of the beginning of Joseph Charap and Sara Evans’s lecture about their innovative practices at Green-Wood Cemetery was about meeting the cemetery’s canopy loss. Charap and Evans point out that, too often, as older trees reach the end of their lives, there are no other trees in line to take their place (in both domestic and public landscapes). The team at Green-Wood is planting young trees on a massive scale, mostly bareroot because they are cheaper, easier to plant, and more successful than other young trees. They are also babying their oldest trees by creating root protection zones and branch props for aging limbs. It’s a two-pronged approach that any gardener could copy.

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  • Leni’s Propagations and Inherited Houseplants – Fine Gardening

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    Hi GPODers!

    Last week we were introduced to Barbara Owen’s indoor plant collection (Barbara’s Indoor Garden in Massachusetts), and I’m thrilled to share that more gardeners have been inspired to share their houseplant hoards. Todays batch of photos come from Leni Johnston in Dunnville, Ontario, Canada (Zone 5). Leni is a professional photographer (@leni.j.photo on Instagram) who’s eye for bold photos is just as strong as her eye for fascinating plants. Her outdoor plantings are covered in a thick blanket of snow right now, but there is plenty of greenery to enjoy indoors.

    We have had a garden for over 20 years, but it hasn’t been until the last few years that I have really focused on making it something special. We have about 1 acre of heavy moist clay surrounded by farmland and deciduous forest that is very wet. We are on the north shore of Lake Erie, and our weather is significantly influenced by the winds off the lake. I am most proud of the over 60 trees we have planted, mostly native to our Carolinian forest area. Our land was just an empty field when we bought it. I have also started planting a lot of native shrubs and have created a few beds. around the trees and shrubs. The goal moving forward is to introduce more native and hardy non-native flowers to fill in all the holes. We also have a vegetable garden, which is in mid construction as we had to move it to a sunnier location. I can’t wait for it to warm up so I can get back to making the beds and installing a greenhouse. I’m uploading some images of my houseplants. My mother passed recently, and I inherited her orchids, african violets and a couple Christmas cactus. My window sills are overflowing because I also am compelled to propagate almost any plant. I currently have a couple roses and a holly that seem to have taken root, and then all of my Pelargoniums that I overwinter. It is incredibly cold and snowy outside so having all these plants around me gives me hope.

    In front are two somewhat sad-looking Christmas cacti and a Kalanchoe. I’m hoping new soil and bigger pots will help these fellows along. This is a west-facing window, but there is a woodland next door so the light is mostly dappled.

    a group of large houseplantsA mish-mash of plants too big for any other spot in the house. Same west side facing side of the house. My mother was a member of the local horticultural society and she was always bringing home a plant for me. The crazy cactus on the left was one such plant. Somehow, I have managed to keep it alive, though its growth is a bit vine-like.

    a row of small houseplants in front of a window with snow outsideA collection of succulents, cactus and African violets. The violet on the far right was not doing well, so I just repotted it. The other violets I was able to propagate from a leaf. The plants on the far left are my attempt at starting roses from a cutting. This is a west-facing window that works for now with the low and weak winter sun. I will probably have to move these plants in the spring as things heat up.

    shelves of houseplants in front of windowThis is my only south-facing window with a window sill, and it tends to get packed with plants at this time of year. I have more succulents and cacti, but also my Pelargoniums. There is a basil and a peppermint that are experiments to see if I can keep them going over the winter, and at the far right, the little holly that has a couple of new leaves on it. I feel a bit like an amateur mad scientist sometimes, but the urge to grow things at this time of year is very strong.

    Thank you so much for sharing your incredible collection of houseplant treasures with us, Leni! It is a truly special bond to share a love of gardening with a close family member, and an honor to continue to care for the special plants they leave behind.

    Keep the indoor plant photos coming! I’ve been thoroughly enjoying all the greenery that brings a touch of the garden indoors when the view outside is quiet and white. Follow the NEW directions below to submit your photos to Garden Photo of the Day!

     

    We want to see YOUR garden!

    Have photos to share? We’d love to see your garden, a particular collection of plants you love, or a wonderful garden you had the chance to visit!

    To submit, fill out the Garden Photo of the Day Submission Form.

    You can also send 5–10 photos to [email protected] along with some information about the plants in the pictures and where you took the photos. We’d love to hear where you are located, how long you’ve been gardening, successes you are proud of, failures you learned from, hopes for the future, favorite plants, or funny stories from your garden.

    Do you receive the GPOD by email yet? Sign up here

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    GPOD Contributor

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  • A Great Big Pile of Potting Soil | The Survival Gardener

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    We have had a hard time getting bulk potting soil for our nursery since moving to Lower Alabama. We’ve mixed a lot of our own as experiments, using everything from peanut hulls and charcoal to rotten wood chips mixed with purchased soil. But now we got the hookup!

    That is 25+ cubic yards of professional nursery potting soil. It’s a combination of pine bark fines, lime and some fertilizer. Since we needed a lot for the nursery, I thought, “hey – why not have it all dropped at the shop so we can re-sell some to local gardeners?” And now we have it.

    We were driving over an hour to get two cubic yards at a time for $100 yard. Now we can have it right here and use it as we need it.

    It’s good to have a shop. Gives us a great excuse to get stuff we already wanted.

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    David The Good

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  • How to Grow and Care for Weeping Fig Plants (Ficus benjamina)

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    Pests and Disease

    While leaf drop as a result of changing environmental conditions is far more likely to cause problems for your plant than any other issue, you might also bump up against a few insects.

    Disease pathogens come to call even less often, but it’s still a good idea to be aware of the potential culprits.

    Pests

    Indoor pests lack natural predators, which allows them to spread pretty much unchecked. 

    What’s one of the most common symptoms of a pest infestation? I’ll give you one guess…

    If you said dropping leaves, you win! There are a few common pests that you’ll see on indoor plants.

    Aphids

    A large aphid infestation can cause leaf drop and yellow stippling on the leaves.

    You will most commonly see them on the green growing tips, but they can feed anywhere.

    A close up horizontal image of a gardener using a spray bottle to mist houseplants.

    Spraying regularly with neem oil is a standard method for dealing with these pests.

    Because they’re so common, you should be sure to learn how to spot and eliminate these pests if you haven’t already.

    Our article on how to deal with aphids provides helpful information to guide you through the process.

    Mealybugs

    Mealybugs, insects in the family Pseudococcidae, are another common houseplant pest. They will feed on ficus plants, using their piercing mouthparts to draw sap out of the tree.

    When they congregate in groups, these little wingless insects are covered in a waxy coating that makes them look more like some type of fungal disease than a pest infestation.

    Learn more about identifying and dealing with mealybugs here.

    Scale

    Scale insects appear as little brown or black lumps on the leaves, stems, or trunk.

    You can remove them by wiping with a cotton swab that has been dunked in a bit of rubbing alcohol.

    It’s a little tedious, and you will need to do it again every few days over the course of a few weeks, but it’s effective.

    For more tips, check out our guide to scale.

    Spider Mites

    Spider mites love dry conditions, and it just so happens that home interiors tend to be drier than the outdoors.

    These tiny spider relatives are sapsuckers and they leave behind extremely fine webbing – which is usually what will first tip you off to an infestation.

    The red spider mite (Tetranychus spp.) is the most common. Learn more about how to deal with these teeny-tiny pests in our guide.

    Disease

    F. benjamina is rarely troubled by disease. Rotting roots are really the only issue you need to watch for.

    Root Rot

    Root rot can be caused by two problems. The first is standing water around the roots, and the second is disease.

    More specifically, root rot is caused by the fungi Rhizoctonia solani and Fusarium oxysporum. Both of these species thrive in oversaturated soil – so in other words, don’t overwater your ficus!

    A close up horizontal image of a small weeping fig (Ficus benjamina) that has been removed from its pot and set on a wooden surface.A close up horizontal image of a small weeping fig (Ficus benjamina) that has been removed from its pot and set on a wooden surface.

    Because it’s impossible to tell whether root rot is the result of a fungus or whether the roots are simply drowning in too much water, you’ll need to treat for both probable causes.

    First, remove the plant from the pot and rinse away all of the soil. Trim away any mushy or black roots.

    Next, treat the roots with a biofungicide. Mycostop is an excellent option that’s very effective. Mix it with water according to the manufacturer’s directions and spray the roots.

    Wipe the container clean and sanitize it with a 1:10 mixture of bleach and water (one part bleach to nine parts water). Fill it with fresh potting soil.

    Repot the plant, and wait two weeks before treating the soil with the same biofungicide, following the manufacturer’s directions. Treat one more time two weeks later.

    A close up square image of the packaging of Mycostop Biofungicide isolated on a white background.A close up square image of the packaging of Mycostop Biofungicide isolated on a white background.

    Mycostop Biofungicide

    Pick up Mycostop in five- or 25-gram packets at Arbico Organics.

    Find our detailed guide on preventing and treating root rot here.

    Find Success with Weeping Figs

    Weeping figs have a bad reputation among some growers.

    They’re known for dropping their leaves at the slightest provocation – and many have resorted to placing artificial ones in their homes to avoid unnecessary cleanup.

    A close up vertical image of a potted weeping fig (Ficus benjamina) growing indoors as a houseplant.A close up vertical image of a potted weeping fig (Ficus benjamina) growing indoors as a houseplant.

    Hopefully this guide has put you on the road to success with this elegant houseplant. Knowing what to watch for, and what to avoid, goes a long way towards making your plant happy.

    Are you growing a weeping fig? If so, have you had any trouble with leaf drop? What caused it? Let us know in the comments below so we can share our experiences!

    If you’d like to add a few more ficus plants to your collection, you might be interested in some of our other guides next:

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    Kristine Lofgren

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  • Top 7 Bangor estate agents for families planting roots in North Wales (2026) – Growing Family

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    Collaborative post

    Finding the right estate agent can transform the daunting task of relocating into an exciting family adventure. If you’re considering a move in North Wales, this article compares 7 leading estate agents across Bangor and North Wales, evaluating their professional qualifications, family-focused services, and local expertise.

    family moving home and taking a break on a sofa

    Williams & Goodwin The Property People emerged as the standout choice, distinguished by their Royal Institution of Chartered Surveyors accreditation, comprehensive property management services, and understanding of communities from Anglesey to Gwynedd. Their independently trained staff combines professional certifications with genuine local knowledge, making them particularly valuable to families seeking homes with gardens near quality schools such as Bangor Grammar School.

    The North Wales property market continues to experience steady growth. Rightmove forecasts 3% house price growth in Wales for 2026 [1], outpacing Great Britain’s average of 2%, driven by affordability that appeals to families seeking larger homes near green spaces.

    1. Williams & Goodwin The Property People

    Address: 313 High Street, Bangor, Gwynedd, LL57 1UL

    Phone: 01248 250 108

    Website: https://tppuk.com/

    Williams & Goodwin The Property People Estate Agents Bangor operates as an independent estate and letting agency specialising in residential sales across North Wales. The agency provides comprehensive services across Bangor, Anglesey, and Gwynedd, including sales, lettings, property management, and auctions.

    Professional qualifications set this agency apart from competitors. Their staff holds accreditation from the Royal Institution of Chartered Surveyors (RICS) and membership with the National Association of Estate Agents (NAEA), ensuring families receive expert guidance from start to finish.

    The agency’s specialist departments handle residential, agricultural, and commercial properties. This multi-disciplinary approach proves particularly valuable when you need guidance beyond standard residential sales.

    Pros:

    • Independent family-run agency delivering personalised attention
    • Professionally qualified team with RICS and NAEA credentials
    • Comprehensive service range, including auctions and management
    • Deep local expertise offering a wealth of local knowledge

    Cons:

    • Smaller digital footprint compared to national chains
    • Property portfolio limited to the North Wales region

    Best For: Families prioritising professional expertise and personalised service when planting roots in Bangor.

    2. Carter Jonas

    Address: The Estate Office, Port Penrhyn, Bangor, LL57 4HN

    Phone: 01248 362536

    Website: www.carterjonas.co.uk

    Carter Jonas operates as a national estate agency with an established North Wales presence. The firm provides property services spanning residential sales, rural estates, and commercial properties across multiple regions.

    National resources support extensive marketing capabilities through professional networks. Their broader geographic reach offers connections beyond North Wales, though this wider focus sometimes dilutes specialised local neighbourhood knowledge compared to Bangor-focused independents.

    Pros:

    • National firm with professional credentials
    • Wide marketing network
    • Rural and estate property expertise
    • RICS-regulated firm

    Cons:

    • Less concentrated Bangor town expertise
    • Corporate structure may limit personal service
    • Broader geographic focus reduces local specialisation

    Best For: Families seeking larger estate properties or those valuing national firm resources.

    3. Lucas & Co

    Address: 22 High Street, Menai Bridge, Isle Of Anglesey, LL59 5EE

    Phone: 01248 714567

    Website: www.lucasestateagents.com

    Lucas & Co is a regional estate agency with branches across North Wales. Their operations combine traditional estate agency practices with modern marketing approaches across the region.

    Regional coverage provides a reasonable market understanding throughout North Wales communities. Their established presence means familiarity with Bangor property trends.

    Pros:

    • Multiple North Wales locations
    • Established regional presence
    • Traditional estate agency approach
    • Propertymark regulated

    Cons:

    • Less personalised service approach
    • Limited additional services beyond sales
    • Variable local expertise across branches

    Best For: Families seeking straightforward property transactions with regional agency support.

    4. W. Owen Estate Agents, Valuers, & Chartered Surveyors

    Address: 314 High Street, Bangor, Gwynedd, LL57 1YA

    Phone: 01248 353357

    Website: www.w-owen.co.uk

    W. Owen operates as an established independent estate agency with deep Bangor roots. Their long-standing presence on High Street demonstrates a commitment to the local community and traditional estate agency values.

    Independent agency benefits include personalised service delivery adapted to individual family needs. Their concentrated Bangor focus means detailed knowledge of local neighbourhoods, schools, and community amenities.

    Pros:

    • Long-established Bangor presence
    • Independent family-focused service
    • Strong local community knowledge
    • Independent agency standards

    Cons:

    • Smaller property portfolio
    • Limited modern marketing tools
    • Fewer additional services beyond core sales

    Best For: Families who value traditional independent agencies with established local reputations.

    5. Anthony Flint

    Address: The Old Tailors, The Crossing, Tal y Cafn, Conwy Valley, Conwy LL28 5RR

    Phone: 01492 877418

    Website: www.anthonyflint.co.uk/

    Anthony Flint operates as an independent estate agency covering Conwy County in North Wales, including Llandudno, Penrhyn Bay, Colwyn Bay, and Bangor areas. Their regional coverage includes comprehensive residential sales and lettings with full property management services for landlords.​

    Pros:

    • Independent with personalised service
    • Full sales, lettings, and property management
    • Strong Conwy County / North Wales coverage, including Bangor listings
    • Rent Smart Wales and Property Ombudsman registered​

    Cons:

    • Main office in Llandudno (20 miles from Bangor centre)
    • Broader Conwy focus dilutes Bangor expertise
    • Smaller team vs. national chains

    Best For: Families seeking properties across Conwy County and eastern North Wales.

    6. Dafydd Hardy

    Address: 156 High Street, Bangor, Gwynedd, LL57 1NU

    Phone: 01248 35 35 44

    Website: www.dafyddhardy.co.uk

    Dafydd Hardy positions itself as a prominent North Wales estate agency with multiple branch locations. Their Bangor office is part of a broader network covering coastal and rural properties in North Wales.

    Multi-branch operations provide regional property access and marketing reach. Their established North Wales presence means a solid understanding of property values and market trends.

    Pros:

    • Well-established North Wales presence
    • Multiple branch locations
    • Broad property portfolio access
    • Propertymark membership

    Cons:

    • Less specialised personal service
    • Corporate feel compared to independents

    Best For: Families seeking established regional agencies with broad property access.

    7. Beresford Adams

    Address: 282 High Street, Bangor, Gwynedd, LL57 1UL

    Phone: 01248 730 014

    Website: www.beresfordadams.co.uk

    Beresford Adams operates as a regional estate agency with extensive coverage across North Wales. Their Bangor branch serves as one of multiple locations across Wales, providing residential sales and lettings services.

    Regional network advantages include wider property marketing and buyer databases. Their established brand recognition throughout Wales appeals to families relocating from other Welsh regions.

    Pros:

    • Extensive North Wales coverage
    • Established regional brand
    • Wide marketing distribution
    • Propertymark regulated

    Cons:

    • Regional structure limits local specialisation
    • Less personalised service approach
    • Corporate processes may slow decision-making

    Best For: Families relocating within Wales who value regional brand familiarity.

    Quick Comparison of the top estate agents in Bangor

    Agency Bangor Presence Family Homes Coverage Lettings/Management Personalised Service Network Reach
    Williams & Goodwin Central Bangor ✓ Strong ✓ Full ✓ High ✓ Local-focused
    Carter Jonas Strong local office Good ✓ Full ✓ Partial National ✓
    Lucas & Co Bangor branch Moderate Limited Partial Regional
    W. Owen Bangor independent Sales-focused ✓ Minimal ✗ High ✓ Local-only
    Anthony Flint Regional (Llandudno) Good listings ✓ Full ✓ High ✓ Conwy/North ✓
    Dafydd Hardy Flagship Bangor ✓ Strong incl. student Full ✓ Moderate Multi-branch ✓
    Beresford Adams Bangor High St ✓ Good regional ✓ Full ✓ Corporate ✗ Wales-wide ✓

    Making your choice

    Williams & Goodwin’s combination of professional credentials, comprehensive services, and genuine North Wales roots makes them particularly well-suited for families seeking a smooth, stress-free property journey. Their award-winning estate agency approach balances professional standards with personal attention, creating the foundation you need when planting permanent roots.

    Whether you’re searching for a home near excellent schools, seeking properties with substantial gardens, or exploring options across Anglesey, partnering with qualified professionals will help your family’s property journey flourish.

    The right estate agent doesn’t just find houses. They help families discover homes where property and people together create lasting foundations.

    FAQs on estate agents in Bangor

    Why does Williams & Goodwin top the list as the best estate agent in Bangor?

    Williams & Goodwin tops the list due to its central Bangor presence, full services, and close, personalised attention, ideal for families.

    Why is Williams & Goodwin the most qualified estate agent in Bangor?

    Williams & Goodwin qualify most through professional credentials, comprehensive sales/lettings, and genuine North Wales roots, balancing standards with personal service.

    Williams & Goodwin vs. Anthony Flint: Why was Williams & Goodwin chosen as the best?

    Williams & Goodwin was chosen over Anthony Flint for superior Bangor-centric presence versus Llandudno-based regional coverage.

    Williams & Goodwin vs. Dafydd Hardy: Why was Williams & Goodwin chosen as the best?

    Williams & Goodwin was chosen over Dafydd Hardy for a higher level of personalised service, despite Dafydd Hardy’s multi-branch corporate feel.

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    Catherine

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  • Accessible Gardening: Creating a Garden That Supports YOUR Body – Garden Therapy

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    Gardening is a joyful, therapeutic activity that everyone should be able to enjoy, no matter their capabilities. Accessible gardening allows you to create a space that works for you in a judgment-free zone. Here’s how to make gardening easier on the body and the mind.

    We often talk about gardening being one of the most accessible hobbies. You can do it with relatively no experience, get free or low-cost supplies, enjoy it year-round, and find tons of support online.

    But we don’t often talk about how physical gardening can be. I can get a serious arm workout just by using pruners for a half hour or work up a sweat with the number of times I squat while picking weeds.

    Gardening is especially tough on the body for those of us who may be working with physical disabilities or aging bodies. Or, if you’re like me, both.

    I’ve had to change my approach to gardening over the years to accommodate my body’s needs. As I’ve settled into my new house, I incorporated an accessible garden design to make things easier and hopefully allow me to garden for many years to come.

    Let me show you how you can make your own accessible garden.

    alternative lawn five-spot floweralternative lawn five-spot flower
    My wildflower lawn requires no mowing or watering, requiring less energy from me.

    Letting Go of Expectations

    Thanks to social media, we can see what other people are doing in their gardens at all times. I see people starting their seeds indoors in January when I’m still in recovery from the holidays. People are boasting about all the bulbs they want to plant when I can hardly bend over and put two packs of bulbs in the ground.

    There are a lot of “shoulds” in gardening. You should be planting native species to support your local environment. If you don’t mow your lawn, your neighbours might give you the stink eye. Weed so your flower beds don’t look unkempt and wild.

    Let go of all these shoulds.

    All approaches to gardening are valid. If you want to do these things, then by all means do! If you envision your garden differently, then that’s what you should follow. Tailor your garden to your own needs.

    We tend to be the hardest on ourselves, and the tyranny the shoulds only make us feel overwhelmed to get it all done. Try to do the best you can with forgiveness and kindness.

    food forests are great for accessible gardeningfood forests are great for accessible gardening
    A food forest is an excellent, low-maintenance way to grow lots of food.

    Understanding Your Own Needs

    Before you get started, think seriously about your own needs and limitations. Getting a paper and pen and writing this down will help you really consider your unique situation.

    Start with a self-assessment about what your physical abilities are. Personally, I often underestimate AND overestimate what my abilities are, and I think a lot of people might also.

    I’ll think of everything I want to do and what I used to do. But if I’m having a flare-up or I’m struggling, I can’t get as much done. The same goes for the seasons. I can work more in the summer than in the winter because my body is more sore and stiff,

    When I have an unrealistic expectation of what I should be able to do, I feel down and beat up because I’m not accomplishing it all—I don’t recognize all the work I’m actually getting done.

    This is why doing an assessment of your physical abilities helps. Ask yourself…

    • What is my energy like?
    • How much time do I have available?
    • What can I take on in this mental state?
    • Am I in the right place to be doing these things?
    • Why am I gardening? What am I hoping to get out of this?

    Sometimes, you may be in a place that’s more suited to curling up with a blanket and sitting in the hammock chair in the garden as opposed to planting flowers and picking weeds. And that’s okay.

    hammock chair in accessible gardenhammock chair in accessible garden
    I have spent many afternoons enjoying my garden from my hammock chair.

    Accessible Garden Design

    Accessibility is very personal and changes from minute to minute, day to day, week to week, and year to year. Start off by looking at what you can handle now, how you can make things better for the future, and adapt as your body and mind requires.

    Gardening Beds

    The cornerstone of every garden is the gardening beds. If all your beds are ground beds, you may want to think about pivoting to some different gardening designs. Ask yourself if your garden is set up for ergonomic and body-friendly designs.

    Raised beds can ease the need to bend down and kneel over. Perhaps you can start thinking vertically. In my last home, I made a completely vertical garden bed to maximize my small full sun area and to make caring for my vegetable garden easier on my back.

    Container gardening is also an excellent choice. You can move pots and containers closer to the home so you don’t have to go far to reach them, and you can care for them even while sitting.

    If you’re reading this and going Oh no, my garden is going to need a total revamp, then that’s okay. Whatever you do, don’t set out to try and completely renovate your garden all at once. That will be too overwhelming.

    Instead, try to adjust your gardening beds over time and ask for help. I moved in the fall of 2022 and spent the next year and a half slowly changing the new yard to accommodate my needs. It was a HUGE project, and I had a ton of help by hiring contractors and reaching out to friends. It is only now, this year, that I’ll finally get to start planting everything (and I’m so so so so excited!).

    Accessible Tools

    Many of our daily gardening tasks require tools to get done, from pruning shears to water spray guns. There are ergonomic and accessibility-friendly versions of almost all of these tools designed to lessen the load on your body and make gardening easier.

    I have a whole post dedicated to these ergonomic tools, which you can check out here.

    There are also tools which you may not already have, such as kneeling pads or an auger drill bit for planting.

    Once again, it can be pricey to fully revamp all the tools in your garden. Purchase these accessible tools as you need them and rehome your other tools to a new gardener’s home (I like offering items on my local Buy Nothing Group).

    close-up image of gloved hands gripping a three-tined garden cultivator fork and working soil with itclose-up image of gloved hands gripping a three-tined garden cultivator fork and working soil with it
    Tools can have extendable or longer arms so you can reach further while sitting or standing.

    Mobility Friendly Design

    Sometimes, just accessing gardening beds can be a problem. In my new home, they originally had one large gardening bed pressed against a fence. This meant that to reach anything in the back, I would have to climb and wade my way through the other plants.

    Yeah, no. Not happening.

    Have you made your garden easy to get around? It’s important to think about travelling around the garden while designing for accessibility.

    Pathways are essential. While a pathway of large river stones may be beautiful, it will probably be difficult to walk on. You want pathways on which you can roll things, don’t have trip hazards, are wide enough, and are good for all seasons (frost can make things very slippery).

    Also, consider adding a few seating options throughout your garden. You don’t want to go far if you need to sit for a moment to regain some energy.

    Handrails are also important. Avoid covering them in decorative elements like planters, fairy lights, or garlands in the winter. You want handrails you can grip.

    Do you have to go downstairs? Consider adding a grip to the staircase to avoid slipping. Long term, you may also want to consider adding ramps to your space as well.

    garden path in accessible gardengarden path in accessible garden
    Pathways can be both beautiful and safe.

    Low-Maintenance Plants

    Plant choices can make a huge difference in making your garden work for you. Low-maintenance plants will give you the leeway between having to garden and wanting to garden.

    Native species will naturally thrive in your area, so if you’re looking for spaces to fill, consider adding some. You’re not looking for perfection, so look for species that can thrive in your area. For instance, you may be able to grow palm trees in Vancouver, but it will take a lot of work. So, it might be best to grow a different tree instead.

    Other plants that can add to the workload are those that need to be overwintered. If you need to dig plants up or move them into a greenhouse, they might be worth skipping (or grow them in containers so you can move them into a garage easily).

    Or perhaps you approach your garden with an oh-well attitude. Everything stays put for the winter—you’re prepared to lose the plant. If it happens to survive, then bonus!

    Don’t set yourself up for a bunch of extra jobs down the road that will cause you stress since you don’t know when you’ll be able to get them done.

    Allow the plant to support your needs. Plant the things you love, the flowers that make you smile, the scents that remind you of fond memories, the vegetables you actually like to eat, or the herbs you can use for your own beauty products.

    It’s not about what you don’t plant; it’s about what you do plant.

    Permaculture Zones

    One of my last tips for you is to consider permaculture zones. This is a method of grouping plants (and other garden structures) together based on how often you use them.

    For instance, if you cook with herbs often, you might want them right outside your patio door so you can easily snip them without wading into the garden. Or you might strategically grow your vegetables on the side of the house with the hose so you don’t have to haul it far.

    While there are technically five permaculture zones, they’re not supposed to be a rigid structure to follow. They’re supposed to work for you, so they’re a great practice for those looking for a more accessible garden.

    I have a whole post dedicated to using permaculture zones to create an accessible garden, which you should definitely check out.

    And those are my tips for creating a more accessible garden. I’d love for you to share your own tips in the comments below so that myself and others can utilize them to make gardening as friendly as possible for all ages and bodies.

    More Ways for Accessible Gardening

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    Stephanie Rose

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  • Our Favorite Terracotta Rhubarb Forcers

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    Who wouldn’t want a rhubarb forcer? Not only do these terracotta cloches encourage tender shoots to grow in early spring, the clay domes also look fabulously sculptural in a garden bed.

    If you are the sort of gardener who likes to raise asparagus and chicory as well (and really, who among us does not?), forcing jars will also coax those edibles toward success.

    You may wonder after you look at all the lovely rhubarb forcers pictured below why the terracotta jars are a commonplace accessory in England but practically non-existent in the United States. We too are dismayed by the shortage stateside—perhaps local garden suppliers will take note of our 10 favorites. [N.B.: Since this story was first published a decade ago, there’s been progress in the US market, with four stateside retailers now making our updated list!]

    The UK’s renaissance in rhubarb forcers can be traced to a chance encounter between the Duke of Edinburgh and potter John Huggins at a recent Chelsea Flower Show, reports the Telegraph. After the Duke “casually asked if he made rhubarb forcers,” Ruardean Garden Pottery designer Huggins became so intrigued that he started buying up vintage forcers to study their shapes and “once he started making them, people just couldn’t get enough.”

    Featured photograph above courtesy of Crocus.

    A Victorian-style Clay Cloche Rhubarb Forcer handmade on a potter�217;s wheel has a 38-centimeter base and is £109.99 from Gardens4Less.
    Above: A Victorian-style Clay Cloche Rhubarb Forcer handmade on a potter’s wheel has a 38-centimeter base and is £109.99 from Gardens4Less.
    This English Terracotta Forcer, a collaboration between Gardenheir and the North Cotswolds-based Whichford Pottery, is available in two sizes (19 and 27 inches tall) and are $348 and $598 respectively. Each comes with a 10-year frost-proof guarantee.
    Above: This English Terracotta Forcer, a collaboration between Gardenheir and the North Cotswolds-based Whichford Pottery, is available in two sizes (19 and 27 inches tall) and are $348 and $598 respectively. Each comes with a 10-year frost-proof guarantee.
    The Terracotta Rhubarb Forcer is made from Turkish clay and available in two sizes, 50 and 60 centimeters tall; £139.99 and £159.99 at Crocus. (The Royal Horticultural Society also carries them.)
    Above: The Terracotta Rhubarb Forcer is made from Turkish clay and available in two sizes, 50 and 60 centimeters tall; £139.99 and £159.99 at Crocus. (The Royal Horticultural Society also carries them.)

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  • Andy’s Winter Garden in Pennsylvania – Fine Gardening

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    Hi GPODers!

    The majority of the submissions we receive roll in during the peak of summer color, usually a time when gardener’s believe their designs are at their “best”. However, there are some contributors that return time and time again when submissions are needed most: during the depths of winter. They might have a landscape that takes on a magical quality when covered in snow, or they live in a region that allows for four seasons of bloom and color, or like Andy Schenck in Malvern, Pennsylvania (Zone 6B/7—although it is feeling like 4 lately), they have a palette of plants that continues to provide interest after the temperatures drop. Andy has shared his incredible collection of plants with winter interest a few times in the past  (Winter in Andy’s Garden, Unusual Plants for Winter Interest, and Andy’s Best Plants for the Winter Garden), and today he’s back with an another outstanding winter update.

    I have been gardening at Look Again Garden for over 20 years – it is a collector’s garden with many drifts of one. Zone busting is a favorite challenge as well as searching out the weird, strange and rare plants.

    Our first unusual evergreen is the wheel tree (Trochodendron aralioides, Zones 6–7), which might seem like a inaccurate name when you see these plants in cultivation. Often grown as a large shrub in the U.S., this slow-growing broadleaf is a rare tree that can grow up with 60 feet tall in the wild.

    close up of conifer with yellow-tipped foliageThere are many colorful conifers that brighten a winter garden, but ‘Korean Gold’ plum yew (Cephalotaxus harringtonia ‘Korean Gold’, Zones 6–9) is a stand out. New growth emerges in this fabulous flash of yellow, which can create a wonderful gradient effect on the plant.

    spiky leaves covered snowHolly is also a famous favorite in winter gardens, and this plant might just fool you into thinking they’re part of the family. False holly (Osmanthus heterophyllus, Zones 7–9), also known as holly olive or false olive, is actually a part of the olive family (Oleaceae). The spiky leaves can be deceptive on first glance, but take note that true holly leaves are alternate (single leaves grow staggered along a stem) and false holly leaves are opposite (leaves grow opposite one another on the same node).

    evergreen plant with seed heads covered in snowAnother fabulous selection if you’re looking for a little edge in your garden is the leatherleaf mahonia (Mahonia bealei, Zones 7–9). If you leave the standing stems of dried seed pods on the plant, like Andy has, these evergreens can give an extra element of winter interest.

    conifer dusted with snowAn Asian relative to the native eastern hemlock (Tsuga canadensis, Zones 6–8), Southern Japanese hemlock (Tsuga sieboldii, Zones 6–8) has blunter, more rounded foliage and small, egg-shaped cones.

    conifer branches covered in snowChinese nutmeg (Torreya grandis, Zones 7–9) is a rare find that surprises with its hardiness. The fans of foliage that grow on one plane give the conifer a almost tropical look, but in Andy’s garden it’s still looking fresh with a light dusting of snow.

    spiky foliage covered in snowAndy keeps the spikes coming with another fabulous false holly, this one the ‘Ogon’ cultivar (Osmanthus heterophyllus ‘Ogon’, Zones 7–9). Known for its vibrant yellow hue, the leaves will shift to green or chartreuse in winter.

    green leaves dusted with snowAlong with interesting cultivars, Andy also has an eye for uncommon species. Deciduous dogwoods are well-loved and commonly planted, but the evergreen variety is much harder to come by. This ‘Green Splendour’ evergreen dogwood (Cornus capitata ‘Green Splendour’, Zones 6–9) is splendid in his winter garden.

    orange and red witch hazelLastly, after all of that incredible greenery, Andy leaves us with the fabulous winter flowers of ‘Jelena’ witch hazel (Hamamelis × intermedia ‘Jelena’, Zones 5–8).

    Thank you so much for sharing these fantastic winter interest plants with us, Andy! You have a truly fascinating collection of interesting and unusual specimens that is a delight to see in this subdued season.

    What plants carry your garden through the winter months? Do you have any uncommon gems, like Andy, or do wonderful winter classics provide necessary structure and late season blooms in your landscape? Follow the NEW directions below to submit your winter photos to Garden Photo of the Day!

     

    We want to see YOUR garden!

    Have photos to share? We’d love to see your garden, a particular collection of plants you love, or a wonderful garden you had the chance to visit!

    To submit, fill out the Garden Photo of the Day Submission Form.

    You can also send 5–10 photos to [email protected] along with some information about the plants in the pictures and where you took the photos. We’d love to hear where you are located, how long you’ve been gardening, successes you are proud of, failures you learned from, hopes for the future, favorite plants, or funny stories from your garden.

    Do you receive the GPOD by email yet? Sign up here

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  • How to Grow and Care for Coral Bells (Heuchera)

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    Soil

    In the wild, most alumroots grow in a woodland setting, often taking root in crevices and steep slopes that offer good drainage.

    To make your plants happy, try to replicate their preferred natural environment as best you can!

    Dark green and burgundy coral bells with small flowers on long stalks, in a garden bed with brown, dried leaves, a cement border, and a brick and cement walls in the background.
    Photo by Matt Suwak.

    That starts with soil that’s nutritious and full of organic matter. A twice-yearly application of compost is all you need to support Heuchera, as far as fertilization is concerned.

    However, soil that is too heavy and full of clay would benefit from amendments like sand and larger quantities of compost before planting. Coral bells do not do well in heavy, dense soil.

    Cultivars to Select

    I’m a sucker for the nearly black cultivars, a rare color in the garden that tends to evoke a lot of interest. But overall, I’ve never met a alumroot I didn’t like.

    Caramel

    ‘Caramel’ is nice because it has a color that gets along with almost every other hue in the garden.

    Bright orange 'Caramel' coral bells, with green foliage in the background.Bright orange 'Caramel' coral bells, with green foliage in the background.

    ‘Caramel’

    It reaches a height of about 16 inches. These plants prefer a shadier locale than their darker-leafed cousins.

    You can find plants available at Nature Hills Nursery in quart-sized and #1 containers.

    Georgia Peach

    If you want to match the lighter-hued leaves of ‘Caramel’ with that beautiful venation found in the ‘Plum Pudding,’ try ‘Georgia Peach.’

    Pinkish red 'Georgia Peach' coral bells with long flower stalks and tiny light pink blossoms.Pinkish red 'Georgia Peach' coral bells with long flower stalks and tiny light pink blossoms.

    ‘Georgia Peach’

    It reaches a height of up to 30 inches and is more of a statement plant than an accent.

    Find ‘Georgia Peach’ in #1 containers available at Nature Hills Nursery.

    Melting Fire

    ‘Melting Fire’ is a fairly typical Heuchera, but it stands apart from its peers via the transformation of its foliage from fiery red to a deep purple.

    Dark burgundy 'Melting Fire' coral bells.Dark burgundy 'Melting Fire' coral bells.

    ‘Melting Fire’

    You can find pelleted Melting Fire seeds available in a variety of packet sizes at True Leaf Market.

    Palace Purple

    ‘Palace Purple’ is another darker-leafed cultivar that I’ve seen in many gardens. Its muted, understated color is perfect as an accent to something like hostas.

    Light green, marron, and brownish purple 'Palace Purple' Heuchera.Light green, marron, and brownish purple 'Palace Purple' Heuchera.

    ‘Palace Purple’

    You can try growing ‘Palace Purple’ from seed as well.

    Find plants in quart-sized and #1 containers at Nature Hills Nursery.

    Plum Pudding

    ‘Plum Pudding’ is gorgeous – just look at the venation! I have more of this plant in my garden than any other variety.

    Pink and gray variegated 'Plum Pudding' coral bells leaves.Pink and gray variegated 'Plum Pudding' coral bells leaves.

    ‘Plum Pudding’

    It reaches a modest height of about 12 inches, and will tolerate pretty much any light condition you’ve got.

    You can find ‘Plum Pudding’ in #1 containers available at Nature Hills Nursery.

    Ruby Bells

    ‘Ruby Bells’ has green foliage, but gets its showy name from the deep red flowers that decorate the plant when in bloom.

    Pink 'Ruby Bells' heuchera flower stalks, on a white and green mottled background in shallow focus.Pink 'Ruby Bells' heuchera flower stalks, on a white and green mottled background in shallow focus.

    ‘Ruby Bells’

    You can find ‘Ruby Bells’ pelleted seeds available from True Leaf Market in a variety of packet sizes.

    Maintenance

    So, you’ve chosen your location, the perfect soil is in place, and you’ve gotten a jump on good watering practices.

    On that note, we should talk about the tendency of these plants to “heave” in the wintertime in cooler climates.

    A close up horizontal image of the bright pink foliage of a heuchera plant growing in the garden.A close up horizontal image of the bright pink foliage of a heuchera plant growing in the garden.

    When the ground freezes and thaws, it has a tendency to push alumroot from the ground, exposing its crown and making the plant look a little funky.

    Learn more about heuchera winter care here.

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    Matt Suwak

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  • Epoxy Resin Tables for Family Homes – Growing Family

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    If you’ve got a kitchen table that doubles as an art studio, homework zone and snack battleground, you’ll know the state it can end up in by teatime. Crayon streaks, juice rings, and craft supplies can all contribute to a less than lovely finish. If you like the idea of something tougher that still feels warm, consider epoxy resin tables. These take reclaimed wood with its natural grain and edges, and pour in resin to create a surface that shrugs off daily disasters while bringing nature right into your living space.

    closeup of an epoxy resin table

    The beauty of epoxy resin tables lies in how practical they are for real homes. Spills wipe away in seconds, and hot mugs leave no marks. Little hands experimenting with paints or glue? Just scrub and you’re done. Resin seals the wood completely, so there are no splinters and no gaps to collect dirt.

    That natural wood-resin combo can also quietly do something good for your mood. Research on biophilic design show wood-rich spaces help lower stress and sharpen focus. In a house buzzing with kids and routines, even a small calm boost can make all the difference.

    Families often spot lovely examples like those on https://maxiwoods.com/collections/epoxy-office-computer-tables. Handmade quirks, such as faint bubbles and uneven edges, add character rather than perfection. Whether your home suits warm walnut with soft turquoise swirls, or lighter oak with caramel flows, there’s a design to complement all interior styles.

    Nature sealed safely indoors

    These tables borrow from the garden without the mess. Reclaimed timber carries stories of old barns or fallen trees, with bark texture and natural marks intact. Resin locks it tight, so there are zero sharp bits for curious toddlers and no cracks harbouring dirt or allergens. Low-VOC resins help to keep indoor air cleaner.

    Earthy colours dominate in 2026 family homes: think muted greens, warm beiges, and gentle blues that echo outdoor views. Matte finishes cut glare from windows during daytime play or reading. Wood elements in rooms often lead to better focus and less background tension. For parents juggling snacks, school runs and everything else, that subtle support adds up. All this ties into the wildlife-friendly, nature-connected trends that are popular right now.

    epoxy resin tableepoxy resin table

    Everyday resilience parents rely on

    When choosing a table, think about the following practicalities:

    • Wood sets the warmth – walnut adds cosy depth on grey days, while maple or oak will lift smaller rooms.
    • Resin flow – wider gentle rivers suit larger tables, while delicate wisps are great for compact pieces.
    • Finish choice – matte kills reflections (better for bright days), but a light sheen will add a subtle glow.
    • Thick slabs (usually 4-6 cm) stay rock-solid when little ones lean in for drawing or puzzles.
    • Size – 140-180 cm suits family meals plus crafts; scale this down for smaller rooms.
    • Handy extras – nano coatings repel scratches, and easy-wipe sealants will help you handle sticky marks with minimal effort. You could also consider routed channels to hide cables.

    Tables that evolve with family life

    Built to last, epoxy resin tables can handle changing needs, from toddler scribbles to teen board games. Their non-porous tops resist germs, and cleaning is straightforward: use a microfibre cloth for dust, and mild soap for cleaning. A quality resin should hold its colour for years.

    Quiet wins that make family days better

    Epoxy resin tables slip into family rhythm without drama. Wood echoes the seasons and nature, while resin adds impact and movement. In hectic households, these pieces nurture wellbeing through simple durability and natural charm. If your family space craves a touch of calm that stands up to real life, an epoxy resin table might be just right.

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    Catherine

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  • Winter Comfort: Roasted Pears with Fir Sugar – Gardenista

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    If the fir needles are dry, about 30 seconds in a spice grinder will turn them into an instant powder. If they are fresh it will create a green paste. Both are good. The smell as you work is an uplifting tonic. It is important to clean the spice grinder at once with either a slosh of rubbing alcohol or a degreaser like Citra Solv—the resin in the needles leaves a sticky film on the blades that will gum them up if they are not wiped well.

    Above: Fir sugar.

    For the yuzu marmalade for this roast near recipe,  I use either my fermented yuja-cheong (yuzu syrup or uncooked marmalade), or a conventional, cooked marmalade. You could also substitute strips of lemon or orange or clementine zest, chopped finely, and add extra sugar to the pears’ cavities.

    Roasted Pears with Fir Sugar and Yuzu Marmalade

    Makes 8 servings

    I like the firm texture of Bosc but use any pear you like. Baking-apples and quinces are very fine variations, but add an additional hour if you have chosen quinces.

    • 4 Bosc pears
    • 1/3 cup sugar
    • 1 Tablespoon fir powder or paste (from about 2 Tablespoons needles)
    • 8 Tablespoons yuzu (or other citrus ) marmalade
    Above: Voilà. Serve with homemade whipped cream.

    Preheat the oven to 350°F.

    Wash the pears and cut them in half, lengthways. Use a spoon to carve out their seedy hearts (a tablespoon-measuring spoon make very neat cavities). If you like, also cut out the fibres that run up to the stem.

    Place the pears in a baking dish or skillet that accommodates them snugly. If they tilt over a lot, cut a thin slice from their curved side so they sit flat (this keeps their filling from escaping).

    Fir sugar: In a small bowl mix the sugar with the fir powder or paste (the stickier paste will require you to break it up with your fingers as you mix it into the sugar.

    Sprinkle the fir sugar generously across the pears. Place a tablespoon of marmalade in each cavity. Pour 1½ cups of water into the pan (white wine is also delicious). Transfer to the oven.

    Bake for 45 minutes and then baste the pears with the cooking liquid. Roast another 45 minutes, checking occasionally to make sure that the pan has not dried out completely. A syrupy liquid is what you’re looking for. Add a splash more water if it gets very brown and dry.

    When the pears are soft and have begun to caramelize, they are ready.

    Serve hot with a scoop of Greek yogurt and a drizzle of whipping cream, with a pinch of extra fir sugar dusted across the top. They are also very good at room temperature.

    See also:

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  • Is secondary glazing worth it? Costs, savings, and energy efficiency explained – Growing Family

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    If you’re living in a period property with single-glazed windows, or facing restrictions on replacing your existing windows, you’ve probably considered secondary glazing. This increasingly popular solution promises better insulation, reduced noise, and lower energy bills without the need for full window replacement. But is secondary glazing actually worth the investment?

    In this article, we’ll break down the real costs, potential savings, and energy efficiency benefits to help you make an informed decision.

    a man installing windows

    What is secondary glazing?

    Secondary glazing is the addition of a second pane of glass or acrylic on the inside of an existing window. Unlike double glazing, which replaces your entire window unit, secondary glazing works alongside your current windows to create an insulating air gap.

    This retrofit solution is particularly valuable for listed buildings, conservation areas, or properties where planning restrictions prevent window replacement.

    What’s the price of secondary glazing?

    So, how much does secondary glazing cost? The price varies considerably depending on several factors, including window size, frame material, glass type, and installation complexity.

    On average, you can expect to pay between £200 and £600 per window for professionally installed secondary glazing. Larger windows or custom configurations may push costs toward £800 or more per unit.

    DIY secondary glazing kits offer a more budget-friendly alternative, with prices starting from around £50 to £150 per window. However, these typically provide less robust performance and may not deliver the same aesthetic finish as professional installations.

    For a typical three-bedroom home with eight to ten windows, the total investment for secondary glazing usually ranges from £2,000 to £5,000. While this represents a significant outlay, it’s considerably less expensive than full double glazing replacement, which often costs between £4,000 and £12,000 for a similar-sized property.

    Energy efficiency benefits

    Secondary glazing can dramatically improve your home’s thermal performance. By creating an additional barrier against heat loss, it reduces the U-value of your windows, which measures how effectively they prevent heat from escaping. Single-glazed windows typically have a U-value of around 5.0 W/m²K, while adding secondary glazing can reduce this to approximately 2.8 to 3.0 W/m²K.

    This improvement translates to tangible energy savings. According to the Energy Saving Trust, secondary glazing can reduce heat loss through windows by up to 60%. For the average UK household, this could mean annual heating bill savings of £100 to £200, depending on your property size, existing insulation, and heating costs.

    Beyond thermal efficiency, secondary glazing provides excellent soundproofing. The air gap between panes acts as a sound buffer, reducing external noise by up to 80%. This makes it particularly valuable for homes on busy roads or in urban environments.

    graphic of energy efficient home and piggy bankgraphic of energy efficient home and piggy bank

    Long-term savings and payback period

    When evaluating whether secondary glazing is worth it, consider the payback period. Based on average installation costs and typical energy savings, most homeowners can expect to recoup their investment within 10 to 15 years. While this may seem lengthy, remember that secondary glazing also adds value to your property and enhances comfort immediately.

    The financial case becomes even stronger when you factor in rising energy prices. As heating costs continue to increase, your annual savings will grow accordingly, potentially shortening the payback period.

    Additionally, secondary glazing typically requires minimal maintenance and can last 20 years or more with proper care, meaning you’ll enjoy many years of benefit beyond the break-even point.

    Additional advantages worth considering

    Beyond cost savings and energy efficiency, secondary glazing offers several other benefits that contribute to its overall value. It provides enhanced security by adding an extra physical barrier, reduces condensation on windows by keeping the inner pane warmer, and preserves the original character of period properties that might lose their charm with modern double glazing.

    For homeowners in conservation areas or listed buildings where external alterations are prohibited, secondary glazing may be the only viable option for improving thermal performance without planning complications.

    Is secondary glazing right for you?

    Secondary glazing is worth it if:

    • You have single-glazed windows that can’t be replaced due to planning restrictions.
    • You’re looking for a cost-effective alternative to full double glazing replacement.
    • Noise reduction is a priority alongside thermal efficiency.
    • You want to preserve the original appearance of period windows.

    However, it may not be the best choice if:

    • Your existing windows are already double-glazed.
    • You’re planning a complete renovation where full replacement makes more sense.
    • You have the budget and permissions for high-performance triple glazing.

    The bottom line

    Secondary glazing offers substantial benefits in terms of energy efficiency, comfort, and cost savings, particularly for homes with single-glazed windows or heritage restrictions. While the upfront investment requires careful consideration, the combination of reduced energy bills, improved comfort, noise reduction, and property value enhancement makes it a worthwhile upgrade for many homeowners. Evaluate your specific circumstances, obtain quotes from reputable installers, and consider both the immediate and long-term benefits to determine if secondary glazing is the right solution for your home.

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    Catherine

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  • Cherry’s October Garden in British Columbia – Fine Gardening

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    Happy Monday GPODers!

    A couple of weeks ago we stepped back to September with gorgeous garden photos frequent contributor Cherry Ong in Richmond, British Columbia (Cherry Looks Back at Her September Garden, Part 1 and Part 2). Lucky for us, that was not the only update that she shared with the blog. Today we’re heading back to Cherry’s garden to see how the color continued to evolve in October of last year. Cherry’s garden is a delight to see in every season (Cherry’s May Garden in British Columbia, Early Summer in Cherry’s Garden, Cherry’s August Garden, Winter at the Fern Fairway, etc.) and the incredible color and texture combinations in fall are no exception.

    Color and collapse (and chaos?) coming into play in October.

    shrub with purple berries growing into shrub with yellow fall foliageThe fall colours of the ‘Profusion’ beautyberry (Callicarpa bodinieri ‘Profusion’, Zones 5–8) and Glow Girl® spirea (Spiraea betulifolia ‘Tor Gold’, Zones 3–9) weave beautifully.

    close up of purple berries amongst yellow foliageA closer look at those gem-like berries on ‘Profusion’ beautyberry popping against the golden glow of Glow Girl® spirea.

    pink hydrangea in fallLimelight (Hydrangea paniculata ‘Limelight’, Zones 4–8) panicles are equally gorgeous. All the plants have engulfed the birdhouse in the front yard during the summer and fall seasons.

    small garden in fallThe colour change is more evident in the backyard.

    large shrubs in fall‘Waterfall’ Japanese maple (Acer palmatum var. dissectum ‘Waterfall’, Zones 5–9) turning gold and Quick Fire® panicle hydrangea (Hydrangea paniculata ‘Bulk’, Zones 3–8) behind it going brown now.

    Acer palmatum Watefall foliage in fallA close up of Waterfall’s dissected foliage.

    small garden with vibrant fall foliageAnother view of the yard with some container plants also putting on their fall show.

    Lion’s head Japanese mapleLion’s Head Japanese maple (Acer palmatum ‘Shishigashira’, Zones 5–9) was a Mother’s Day gift from my family many years ago. It received a pot upgrade this year. Not sure how much longer I can keep it in a container.

    Thank you so much for sharing these gorgeous photos of your fall garden with us, Cherry! I’m always amazed by the color and fantastic texture that explodes from every corner for your compact space.

    Fall has long been in our rearview mirror, but it’s never too late to celebrate that fleeting color and the festive decor of the season. Along with these fabulous fall garden shots, Cherry sent in photos of her incredible succulent pumpkin creations, which I will share next week. I hope more GPODers join her in sharing fall highlights! Follow the NEW directions below to submit your photos to Garden Photo of the Day!

     

    We want to see YOUR garden!

    Have photos to share? We’d love to see your garden, a particular collection of plants you love, or a wonderful garden you had the chance to visit!

    To submit, fill out the Garden Photo of the Day Submission Form.

    You can also send 5–10 photos to [email protected] along with some information about the plants in the pictures and where you took the photos. We’d love to hear where you are located, how long you’ve been gardening, successes you are proud of, failures you learned from, hopes for the future, favorite plants, or funny stories from your garden.

    Do you receive the GPOD by email yet? Sign up here

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  • How to Grow and Care for Pinstripe Calathea | Gardener’s Path

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    Soil

    Members of the Marantaceae family require a rich, peaty growing medium to stay hydrated. However, they also require excellent drainage.

    G. ornata tolerates soils that are slightly acidic to slightly alkaline, with a pH ranging from 6.1 to 7.8.

    And since prayer plants are prone to brown tips, it’s best to avoid growing mediums that include perlite, since the fluoride content in this common ingredient can cause tip burn.

    My preferred peat-free potting mix for these plants is actually a combo – I like to mix one part coconut coir to help retain moisture with one part De La Tank’s Houseplant Soil Mix.

    This provides good drainage as well as ingredients that will promote healthy growth, such as compost, biochar, and humic acid.

    A close up vertical image of a bag of Tank's Green Stuff De La Tanks Soil Mix isolated on a white background.

    De La Tank’s Soil Mix

    You’ll find De La Tank’s Soil Mix in one-, eight-, or 16-quart bags from Arbico Organics.

    If you don’t already have a supply of coconut coir (also known as cocopeat) on hand for gardening use, you can purchase it in a compressed block, which makes it more space efficient.

    A close up square image of the packaging of Prococo Compressed Cocopeat Block isolated on a white background.A close up square image of the packaging of Prococo Compressed Cocopeat Block isolated on a white background.

    Prococo Compressed Coconut Coir Block

    You can find 10-pound blocks of compressed coconut coir also available from Arbico Organics.

    Water

    G. ornata prefers moist soil, so don’t let it dry out much between waterings. I like to water my prayer plants when the surface of the soil has just barely started to dry.

    A close up horizontal image of a small pinstripe plant growing in a pot set in a larger bowl for bottom watering, with a brass watering can to the left of the frame.A close up horizontal image of a small pinstripe plant growing in a pot set in a larger bowl for bottom watering, with a brass watering can to the left of the frame.
    Photo by Kristina Hicks-Hamblin.

    Use a houseplant watering can to evenly hydrate the surface of the soil, watering until liquid runs out of the drainage holes in the bottom of the pot.

    Wait until the water has finished draining before returning it to its decorative pot or placing it back on top of the drainage saucer.

    You might also want to try the bottom watering method for this plant.

    Humidity

    Prayer plants require higher than average humidity, and pinstripe calathea is no different.

    Aim for humidity that is between 40 and 60 percent. If you live in a climate with humid summers, you should be all set and won’t need to add any more moisture to your air.

    A close up horizontal image of three prayer plants growing in pots set in a glass terrarium.A close up horizontal image of three prayer plants growing in pots set in a glass terrarium.
    Photo by Kristina Hicks-Hamblin.

    During wintertime and for those of us in more arid climates, a few extra measures can help.

    I grow humidity-loving houseplants such as pinstripe calathea in my arid climate by keeping them grouped with buddies, and placed in terrariums.

    The houseplant buddies help to raise the ambient humidity, and the terrarium helps to hold the moisture in. (It also helps to protect my plants from my curious cats.)

    Fertilizing

    Prayer plants prefer a gentle fertilizing regimen, so I like to use worm compost tea to nourish them.

    If you don’t have worm compost bins of your own (yet!), you can fertilize your houseplant using worm compost tea sachets.

    To use this method, you soak these “tea” bags in room temperature water and feed your plants while watering.

    A close up of the packaging of TeaDrops fertilizer isolated on a white background.A close up of the packaging of TeaDrops fertilizer isolated on a white background.

    Teadrops All Purpose Houseplant Fertilizer

    You can find organic worm compost tea sachets from Earthworm Technologies via Walmart.

    Where to Buy

    You can find pinstripe plants in nurseries and garden centers that carry a good selection of houseplants.

    Or you can shop online!

    A close up square image of a Calathea ornata growing in a decorative pot set on a wooden side table.A close up square image of a Calathea ornata growing in a decorative pot set on a wooden side table.

    Pinstripe Plant

    You can find pinstripe plants in six-inch pots from Fast Growing Trees.

    Beauty Star

    ‘Beauty Star’ is a cultivated variety of G. ornata.

    Its dark green leaves have flushes of pale green between the midrib and leaf margins, forming a light green background behind delicate creamy pink stripes.

    The stripes appear in a wispy, feathery pattern and the undersides of the leaves are deep purple.

    This cultivar tends to grow only up to 18 inches tall and wide, with pink flowers.

    ‘Beauty Star’

    You can purchase ‘Beauty Star’ in six-inch pots from the American Plant Exchange via Amazon.

    Maintenance

    You’ll only need to prune your pinstripe calathea if you want to shape it up a bit or if it gets the occasional brown leaf tip.

    Like other prayer plants, G. ornata is quite sensitive to temperature and humidity fluctuations and it’s not uncommon to find brown leaf tips, even on well-cared for specimens.

    Feel free to prune off brown tips with a pair of sterilized scissors. You can wipe the scissors down with rubbing alcohol or hydrogen peroxide to sterilize them.

    A close up horizontal image of a prayer plant growing in a pot with a pair of scissors to the left of the frame with trimmed leaf tips.A close up horizontal image of a prayer plant growing in a pot with a pair of scissors to the left of the frame with trimmed leaf tips.
    Photo by Kristina Hicks-Hamblin.

    If you get quite neglectful and miss a watering or two, you might find entire leaves that have gone crispy.

    Trim back the dead leaf as close as possible to the soil surface.

    There are many causes for brown leaves on prayer plants – learn how to troubleshoot this issue in our guide.

    When it’s time to water, this is a good opportunity to give its leaves a quick cleaning.

    Wipe each leaf down with a damp paper towel, top and bottom, and make sure the leaves remain relatively dry.

    As a fairly slow grower, pinstripe calathea will only need to be repotted every two or three years – do this in spring when it is actively growing.

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    Kristina Hicks-Hamblin

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  • How to Make a Stunning Sand Art Terrarium – Garden Therapy

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    Once again, terrariums have taken the plant community by storm. With a little bit of a crafty twist, this DIY sand art terrarium is a great way to spice up the living room, hallway, bedside table, or even bathroom. So, get your plant on and make your own terrarium!

    This post will cover…

    DIY sand art terrariumDIY sand art terrarium

    Terrariums are no longer just seen as a revival of a retro 1970’s craft. Modern versions have popped up in florist shops, furniture stores, and lifestyle shops. Attending a terrarium workshop is now a common activity for a bridal shower and mini terrariums grace the tables of many a wedding.

    This newfound popularity is likely because terrariums are charming additions to home decor, along with being incredibly fun to make. These terrariums revive another craft from an earlier era…sand art!

    Pouring layers of coloured sand around the roots of a tropical plant gives this project as gorgeous a display below the leaves as above.

    This is one of the many garden-inspired projects from my book, Garden Made. Be sure to check it out for more green projects inside and outside the home.

    DIY sand art terrariumsDIY sand art terrariums

    Make a DIY Sand Art Terrarium

    Making your own sand art terrariums are quite simple. With some florist’s foam hiding beneath the surface and layers of coloured sand, it’s the perfect addition to your indoor garden.

    Materials

    sand art terrarium materialssand art terrarium materials

    Instructions

    With a sharp knife, cut the foam to both fit in the vase, and at a height that will allow for the plant you have chosen to be completely contained.

    florist foamflorist foam

    Pour one colour of sand around the foam to hold it in place. Layer another colour of sand and fill to the height of the florist foam.

    Set your plant, in the pot, on the florist foam.

    how to make sand art terrariumshow to make sand art terrariums

    Pour layers of coloured sand down the sides of the vase until you completely conceal the small pot. Use the end of a thin paintbrush to hold the leaves aside while you add the sand, and then use the brush to dust the sand off the leaves. Use a cloth to wipe the sand dust from the sides of the vase, inside and out. 

    finished sand art terrariumfinished sand art terrarium

    For a longer-lasting terrarium, give your plant lots of room to grow. If the plants’ roots are crowded in the pot it was purchased in, pot it up into the largest container that still fits inside the vase.

    Water with a dropper, turkey baster, or watering can with a thin spout that can direct the water to the soil just under the leaves. Excess water will flow into the highly absorbent florist foam. Set the terrarium in bright, indirect light and trim back plants as flowers fade or leaves grow tall.

    Frequently Asked Questions About Making a Sand Art Terrarium

    What Plants Are Best for a Terrarium?

    Cyclamen, polka dot plant, and hart’s-tongue fern are featured in my terrarium. Other great plants include nerve plants, peperomia, pilea, selaginella, and air plants. You can learn more about how to care for these terrarium plants here.

    Overall, look for smallish plants of varying heights and colours to get a beautiful terrarium. For enclosed terrariums, choose tropical plants that like humidity.

    Phyllitis scolopendriumPhyllitis scolopendrium

    What Kind of Sand is Good for a Terrarium?

    In my terrarium, I used coloured sand as it makes the terrarium pop and comes in all kinds of colours. When purchasing coloured sand, look for aquarium-grade sand. It is already treated and safe for use with living things.

    Avoid play sand unless the plants are nowhere near it. Made of finer grains, it fills holes rather than creates them. It does not easily allow water to pass through and onwards for our plants.

    For cheap and readily available sand that will work, you can also use builder’s sand or horticultural sand. You won’t find these ones in fun colours though!

    sand for sand artsand for sand art

    How Do You Keep Sand Art From Moving?

    The less movement the better! Once your plant is nestled within your sand art, leave it alone until it’s time to repot it. To avoid your sand layers from mixing with each other, you can add a layer of white glue and wait for it to dry. Similarly, you can use clear candle wax to keep each layer in place.

    How Do You Water Plants in a Terrarium?

    Terrariums that are in enclosed containers will not need very much water. Through evaporation, it will produce quite a bit of humidity on its own. All it will need is a little bit of water every few months with a narrow-spouted watering can directed to the base of the plant. Otherwise, the terrarium is fine all on its own.

    For my terrarium, the top remains open. In this case, I water it as frequently as I would normally, according to the plant’s needs. Learn more about terrarium care here.

    sand art terrariums with white flowering plantsand art terrariums with white flowering plant

    I think these sand art terrariums are very chic and quite easy to make in under an hour. Let me know how yours turn out in the comments down below!

    Sand Art Terrariums

    These crafty but chic terrariums take less than an hour to make and are sure to add some flair to your indoor garden.

    • With a sharp knife, cut the florist foam to fit in the base of the glass container and to give your plant the right height within the container.

    • Pour your first layer of sand around the foam to hold it in place. Add a second layer of another colour to the top of the foam.

    • Set your plant atop the foam.

    • Pour more layers of sand until you reach the top of your pot. Use the end of a paintbrush to carefully hold the leaves out of the way from the sand while pouring.

    • Use the paintbrush to sweep any remaining sand from leaves and the inside of the vase.

    • Water with a turkey baster or watering can with a narrow spout to the base of the plant. The florist foam will help contain excess water. Place in bright, indirect light.

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    Stephanie Rose

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