Now you can enjoy your houseplants without having to tolerate any unwanted guests. Wondering how to get rid of fungus gnats? You aren’t alone! Learn how to prevent and how to get rid of gnats in plants naturally.
There’s something refreshing about having houseplants inside your home. They breathe life into a house and also add a nice colorful flair.
Houseplants bring a wonderful, lovely dose of nature indoors where you need it most, further helping us by purifying the air in our homes.
However, at some point, you might notice some unwelcome visitors making your houseplants their home. I’m talking about fungus gnats—those annoying little flies that appear whenever you water your plants. Ugh! Do these houseplant pests plague your plant babies too?
Don’t worry, if you are having gnat problems, there are simple—and natural—ways to not only prevent but also get rid of fungus gnats in soil.
Disclaimer: First, a disclaimer. I love living things and try to support natural insects anytime I can. For example, in the outdoor garden, I work to create a natural ecosystem that supports predators for the pests that attack my plants.
Indoor plants, however, have only a few natural predators that want to kill fungus gnats – the people and pets they annoy! Unfortunately, the only reasonable way to get rid of fungus gnats in your house is to kill off the pests you have and treat your plants to prevent future infestations.
In this post, we will cover:
What Are Fungus Gnats and How Do They Get in the House?
Fungus gnats, also known as soil gnats, are small dark insects that look similar to fruit flies and live in the soil of houseplants. When you have them, you will notice them when you water your plants or disturb the soil in other ways.
One way to get fungus gnats is to leave your houseplants outside. Most often, though, they come straight from the nursery. You don’t realize it because they hide in the soil until you bring them home unknowingly.
Their larvae eat plant roots and fungi in the soil. Then they suddenly appear in houseplants after the larvae hatch.
Why Are Fungus Gnats Bad?
While these pests are a nuisance in noticeable numbers, it might be comforting (on some level) to know that the adults are harmless insects that do not bite.
Also, they don’t do much damage to strong, healthy plants, but they can cause wilting yellowing leaves, stunted growth, and even death in seedlings and more fragile plants.
But honestly, nobody wants a swarm of gnats flying in your face every time you water your houseplants. Yuck.
When Are You Most Likely to Find Fungus Gnats?
Nuisance problems with fungus gnat adults tend to be most noticeable during late fall and winter, for a couple of reasons:
Houseplants that live outdoors during warm months will commonly start breeding fungus gnats. When these plants are brought indoors, populations may increase due to the warmer temperatures found in homes.
People are indoors more during the colder months, making it easier to notice an infestation.
How to Get Rid of Fungus Gnats
Killing off soil gnats is really not very difficult, and thankfully, you don’t need to bug bomb your home (yay). It all has to do with disrupting their life cycle and making your home inhospitable for these pests. Here’s how to naturally treat your houseplants and get rid of gnats in the soil.
Make the Natural Habitat Inhospitable
Fungus gnat larvae need moist soil to survive. By letting it dry out completely before your next watering, it will get rid of the gnats in the soil and discourage new adults from laying fungus gnat eggs, thus effectively cutting out the larval stage altogether.
Use a Soap-and-Water Mixture
Take a cup of water and add a few drops of liquid dish soap or liquid Castille soap. Use a spray bottle to spray the top of the soil with this to kill the larvae. Repeat this process again in a few days to ensure that you have killed all of the larvae.
While some people recommend vinegar traps, I have found the soap and water to be more effective. Vinegar (and in particular a bowl of apple cider vinegar) is better suited for making a fruit fly trap.
Use Sand or Gravel
Fungus gnats only lay their eggs in the top inch of soil. Replacing that top inch with sand or gravel creates a dry environment and robs them of nutrient-rich fungus to munch on. Without their needed source of food available, they won’t want to lay their eggs.
You can also use pretty decorative aquamarine rocks and add a splash of color to some of your favorite plant babies.
Dispose of the Top Layer of Soil Outdoors
The eggs can still hatch. Let them hatch outside rather than somewhere in your home. You don’t want to just move your pests from one part of the house to another.
By taking all of these steps, you can naturally control and prevent fungus gnat infestations.
How to Prevent Fungus Gnats
Let’s chat about the steps you can take to prevent these annoying pests from ever entering your life in the first place!
Don’t Overwater Your Houseplants
Make sure you aren’t overwatering your plants. Moisture is a big plus for gnats, so to make their new environment inhospitable, you need to let the soil they live in dry out completely.
Neither adult gnats nor their larvae can survive in dry soil, so let your soil dry out completely between watering as often as possible. Here’s an entire guide devoted to teaching how to water your houseplant properly.
Water From the Bottom
Bottom watering will help the topsoil (where the gnats lay eggs) stay dry while keeping your plants hydrated and happy.
If you keep your potting soil in the bag it comes in, fungus gnats can easily get in and lay their eggs. However, the eggs need air to survive, so airtight containers like buckets with tight-fitting lids will keep gnat larvae at bay.
Now That Takes Care of Gnats, but What About Other Houseplant Pests?
Expert David Squire popped by as a guest of Garden Therapy to share information on 8 of the other most common indoor plant pests and how to get rid of them. He has some great tips and tricks here for getting rid of houseplant pests!
Love houseplants? These Posts Are Great Reads
A city girl who learned to garden and it changed everything. Author, artist, Master Gardener. Better living through plants.
Finding the perfect gift for the women in your life can feel overwhelming. Whether you’re shopping for a partner, sister, friend, mum, or coworker, you want something that feels thoughtful, personal, and useful, not just another generic present that ends up in a drawer.
The good news? Great gifts don’t have to be complicated. With a little inspiration and a few smart ideas, you can find something that genuinely makes her smile.
If you’re ever stuck, you can find great gift ideas on NailThatGift, where you can use smart filters to narrow down gifts by occasion, recipient, age, budget, and interests, so you spend less time scrolling and more time gifting with confidence.
21 gift ideas for women
Here are 21 gift ideas for women that work for a wide range of personalities and occasions.
1. Personalised jewellery
Personalised jewellery adds meaning to a beautiful accessory. Initial necklaces, birthstone rings, or engraved bracelets are keepsakes she can wear every day.
2. Luxury self-care gift box
A self-care box is perfect for helping her slow down and unwind. Look for sets with candles, bath products, and cosy extras for a spa-at-home feel.
3. Premium scented candle
A high-quality candle is simple but always appreciated. Unique scents and a pretty holder make it feel more special than a basic candle.
4. Chic everyday tote or crossbody
A stylish bag is both practical and thoughtful. Neutral colours work well for everyday use, while bold styles suit someone who loves fashion.
5. Custom photo print or frame
Photo gifts turn meaningful moments into something she can display. Choose a favourite memory and pair it with a simple, elegant frame.
6. Cosy throw blanket or robe
Comfort gifts are always a win. A soft blanket or plush robe is perfect for relaxing evenings at home.
7. Beauty or skincare treat
A quality beauty or skincare product feels indulgent without being over-the-top. Stick to well-loved brands or gentle products you know she’ll enjoy.
8. Hobby-inspired gift
Gifts tied to her hobbies show real thought. Whether she loves cooking, fitness, journalling, or art, something that supports her interests always lands well.
9. A thoughtful book
Books make great gifts when chosen with care. Pick a novel she’s been wanting to read or an inspiring book that fits her personality.
10. Elevated desk accessories
Stylish desk items can make everyday work feel nicer. Think a sleek planner, pen holder, or a simple wireless charging stand.
11. Experience gift
An experience creates memories, not clutter. Cooking classes, spa days, or tickets to an event can be more meaningful than physical gifts.
12. Personalised home decor
Custom home decor adds warmth to her space. A name print, meaningful quote, or location-based artwork can feel surprisingly personal.
13. Quality water bottle or travel mug
A well-made water bottle or insulated mug is both useful and thoughtful. It’s something she can use daily at work, the gym, or on the go.
14. Subscription box
Subscription boxes make gifts last longer than one day. Beauty, wellness, books, or snacks are easy ways to match a gift to her interests.
15. Stylish loungewear set
Matching loungewear is cosy and cute at the same time. It’s great for relaxing weekends or working from home in comfort.
16. Tech accessories
Small tech upgrades can make life easier. Wireless earbuds, phone stands, or charging docks are practical without feeling boring.
17. Journal or planner
A beautiful journal or planner can inspire reflection and organisation. This is perfect for someone who enjoys writing things down or setting goals.
18. Jewellery organiser or travel case
A jewellery organiser helps keep her favourite pieces neat and protected. It’s especially useful for someone who travels or owns lots of accessories.
19. Unique kitchen gadget
Fun kitchen tools can be surprisingly considerate. A milk frother, olive oil sprayer, or stylish spice set adds a little joy to everyday cooking.
20. Plant or flower subscription
Plants and flowers brighten any space. A small plant or recurring flower delivery is a gift that continues to bring joy over time.
21. Curated gift set based on her interests
Creating a small themed gift set makes your present feel extra personal. Bundle a few items around coffee, self-care, reading, or wellness for a thoughtful finish.
Final Tip: If you’re shopping for different people and occasions, using a website like NailThatGift can seriously simplify the process. Being able to filter by budget, recipient, and interests helps you land on considerate gifts faster, without the endless scrolling.
What are some safe gift ideas for women if I don’t know her very well?
When you’re unsure about personal preferences, it’s best to stick with universally loved options like candles, self-care sets, cosy blankets, or a quality water bottle. These gifts are appreciated without being too personal and work well for coworkers, acquaintances, or newer relationships.
How do I choose a more personal gift without knowing her exact interests?
Pay attention to small hints, things she mentions in conversation, her lifestyle, or how she spends her free time. Even choosing something simple but well-presented, like a book with a handwritten note, can make a gift feel more intentional.
Are experience gifts better than physical gifts?
Experience gifts can be incredibly meaningful, especially for someone who values memories over material items. However, physical gifts still work well when they’re practical or tied to something she genuinely enjoys. There’s no one-size-fits-all answer.
What are good last-minute gift ideas for women?
Digital gifts like experience vouchers, subscriptions, or e-gift cards are perfect for last-minute situations. You can also opt for readily available items like candles, books, or beauty sets that don’t require long shipping times.
How much should I spend on a gift?
The “right” budget depends on your relationship and the occasion, not a fixed number. A smaller, well-chosen gift can feel more meaningful than an expensive but impersonal one, so focus on intention over price.
What if she says she doesn’t want anything?
When someone says they don’t need a gift, a small, meaningful gesture often works best. A handwritten note, a simple plant, or a shared experience can show appreciation without going over the top.
Beyond the double-glazed sash windows of our apartment, it is frigid February, but the air indoors smells like a citrus orchard in springtime. After my previous Meyer lemon tree succumbed to a fungal pathogen, brought on by overwatering, I was sure I would never grow this particular citrus again. I loved that tree, most of all when it was in sumptuous bloom, its scent a constant presence. But its slow and relentless decline due to root rot, and my decision to hasten its demise with several swift chops of a pair of Felcos, left me feeling ashamed. I had failed the tree, even as others—bergamot, yuzu, Thai limes—thrived.
A couple of years passed. As they do. Then, in September 2024, my citrus-growing friend Rachel Prince mentioned that she had a Meyer lemon up for adoption. It was a beautiful tree with a quirky swoop to its trunk.
How could I say no?
Above: Meyer lemon blossom in late afternoon sun in February.
The adopted Meyer lemon spends late spring through fall on our Brooklyn terrace along with the rest of the citrus trees, before coming indoors for winter. In December I picked its beautiful lemons and wrote about making limoncello.
Then, with the lemons harvested, I was very careful not to overwater the tree, which no longer needed to nourish all those fat fruit. It had been at this, post-harvest point that I had managed to swamp the previous Meyer lemon, watering it (thoughtlessly) as much as I had when it was heavy-laden. Citrus trees hate soggy roots.
Shortly after harvest, still in December, the tree looked a little different. I was worried that I had done it again. The leaves either hung limp, or curled. Not curled downwards, but inwards, which typically means they are drought-stressed. But the moisture meter I use read damp, even wet. So I ignored what I know, and trusted the meter.
After a week of this I decided to look at the roots, certain I would find a fungus at work, the telltale threads of roots exposed as the root sheaths slough off, fatally. On butcher paper on the bedroom floor I pulled out the tree and its rootball from the pot and discovered…not damp but drought. The potting medium was bone dry. Some roots had turned to dust. After worrying about overwatering, which is the most common cause of citrus decline, I had underwatered the lemon tree.
I also found very compact areas in the potting medium, and this might be what caused the moisture meter to be off; the meters measure electrical conductivity and the soil mix can affect that. This single experience has made me reassess my reliance on a meter when in doubt.
You make mistakes. You learn. Repeat.
Above: Meyer lemons are very light-hungry. Give them a sunny window.
To repot the tree, I mixed orchid bark, potting soil, and a cactus potting mix that is very gritty. This is a blend that drains well, and quickly—my recipe keeps evolving. The tree was tucked back into its pot and given a good drink (three quarts, if you are curious; a quart more than usual). To remove the excess water that runs into the saucer, I use the usual, designated turkey baster.
No one said that citrus trees are low-maintenance. At least, no one should.
Soon, I noticed the first pinpricks of flower buds. And here we are, eight weeks later.
Above: Inhale. Exhale.
The tree is in peak bloom. Flowers have been opening for 14 days (you begin to count, because each days seems like a miracle). Mature petals are dropping, and sometimes whole flowers fall off, intact; that’s okay, in moderation—the tree could never support hundreds of fruit. But I am being very vigilant.
Sometimes, in the morning or evening, I lie in bed (our bedroom is where the sun lives) and look at the branches, festooned with blossoms. I look, and breathe, in, and out. And think about nothing—try to think about nothing—but what I am seeing. Petals, rich green leaves, on a tree within reach.
Last Monday we enjoyed some spectacular shots of uncommon evergreens from Andy Schenck’s in Malvern, Pennsylvania (Andy’s Winter Garden in Pennsylvania). Andy is one of a handful of gardeners who reliably sends in submissions after temperatures drop and the flow of peak season garden photos dries out. Another gardener who frequently shares her spectacular winter landscape is Margot Navarre in Bellevue, Washington (Check out some of her previous submissions: Margot’s Winter Garden, Celebrating Snowdrops, Snowdrop Magic in Margot’s Garden, and Margot’s Snowdrops). Where Andy’s garden predominantly highlighted the beauty that can be found in unique and unusual evergreen plants. Margot’s garden is a masterclass in beautiful winter blooms—particularly her astounding snowdrop collection.
The snowdrop season is peaking and wanted to share some plants that compliment the snowdrop winter garden.
‘Fieldgate Prelude’ giant snowdrop (Galanthus elwesii‘Fieldgate Prelude’, Zones 4–7) with Perfume Princess® daphne (Daphne x ‘DapJur01’, Zones 4–7)
A closer look at those marvelous ‘Fieldgate Prelude’ giant snowdrops.
Hellebores and ivy-leaved cyclamen(Cyclamen hederifolium, Zones 5–9)—shown in picture—and winter cyclamen(Cyclamen coum, Zones 5–9) pair nicely with the snowdrops.
Expanded the garden to add more garden space. The giant chain fern (Woodwardia fimbriata, Zones 8–10)are filling in and special snowdrops planted in this newer bed.
‘Mrs Macnamara’ giant snowdrop (Galanthus elwesii‘Mrs Macnamara’, Zones 4–7)is a tall and early bloomer and stands out.
I enjoy the snowdrop drifts and divide when the clumps get too crowded. I also like primroses, winter aconite(Eranthis hyemalis, Zones 3–7)and dwarf iris planted near the snowdrops.
Dunn Gardens in Seattle, my favorite Seattle snowdrop garden.
Thank you so much for this update on your winter garden, Margot! Seeing your wonderful winter blooms is always a delight, particularly as some of us look out to a sea of white that has no intentions on melting any time soon.
Do you have blooms that fill your garden with color during the depths of winter, or do you indulge in amaryllis and other indoor flowers until spring bulbs start emerging? Let us know in the comments, or consider sharing your favorite winter flowers with the blog. Follow the NEW directions below to submit your photos to Garden Photo of the Day!
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Spear & Jackson 4930FZ Razorsharp Telescopic Tree Pruner
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Telescopic tree pruner with SK5 carbon steel blade which stays sharper for longer. Variable length telescopic handle extends up to 92 Inch (2340mm). Lopper for cutting branches up to 1.2″ (30mm). 13 inch (330mm) saw is ideal for cutting thicker branches. Supplied with a long cord and pull-action handle. Part of the Razorsharp Advantage collection, the obvious choice for gardeners who demand and expect precise, powerful performance. “Grow Your Own” Great British Growing 2020 Award Winners.
Rose water toner is easy to make and absolutely essential for my skincare routine. Using a rose toner will keep your skin’s pH balance at the perfect level while also providing healing benefits to the skin.
I am often asked about my skincare routine when I talk about natural beauty. People often want to switch to plant-based beauty products but fear that as skin ages, they are not as effective. Nothing could be further from the truth!
I’m closer to 50 now than 40 and have almost no wrinkles. I realize that is more determined by a multitude of factors and to be honest, when I get my wrinkles, I’ll wear them with pride. They are badges of laughter and tears, many emotions felt.
I think the important this is to feel good in your skin, and by using the most natural products, I feel great. And if the side effect is younger-looking skin…so be it! 🙂
How to Wash Your Face
I know this may seem like an obvious topic, but washing your face is actually a bit more complicated than you have been led to believe. If all you’re doing is grabbing a bottle of face wash, scrubbing, and patting on some lotion…you’re likely doing it wrong.
The Problem With Most Facial Soap
Question: would you ever walk into your laundry room, grab your detergent, and rub it all over your face?
Probably not.
What if I told you that’s what you are essentially doing every single day if you use body wash or a beauty bar to wash your face.
Soap can only be called “soap” if it goes through the saponification process of turning fat/oil + water & sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide into…you guessed it, soap. This process (even though its got the scary word “hydroxide” in it) makes the most nourishing, gentlest, and healthiest wash for your skin.
Soap retains the natural glycerin that’s created in the soap-making process and this helps to repair and replenish skin. Beauty bars replace it with much less expensive ingredients that make the wash feel like it has glycerin in it, but don’t be fooled.
Just get some glasses out (even if you don’t normally wear them because those words are tiny!) and read the list of ingredients on the back. Do a little bit of reading on each of those. Do you really want to put that all over your face?
No thank you!
A Healthy Alternative for Your Skin
So, what’s a girl (or guy) to do? The solution is easy enough! Swap out your “detergent” for an actual plant-based soap to use on your skin.
You can buy one on Etsy, at a craft show, or at a natural grocery store and you’ll be supporting the natural skincare movement along with doing your skin a huge favor. Use it for a few weeks in place of your regular face, body, and hand wash and you’ll be amazed at the difference you feel.
The one issue with using natural soap on your face is that soap is not pH balanced. This means that after washing, you’ll want to balance out your face with a toner.
Why skin pH matters
In case you haven’t noticed, your skin is an incredibly delicate organ. Your skin should be on the slightly acidic 5.5 on the pH scale to help ward off harmful bacteria and assist with sealing in moisture to keep your face nice and plump (in the best way).
Unfortunately, skin can also be easily thrown off whack, and when it does—you’ll notice. Acne, eczema, and rosacea can all be clues that your skin balance is off.
When you wash your face, even with the most natural soap, you are stripping the acid layer off the top of your skin. You’ll need to add it back in to prevent drying and premature wrinkles.
That’s where toner comes in. Toner will add that acidic protective layer back and keep your skin nice and healthy! For this reason, I consider toner—this exact rose water toner, in fact—as essential to my skincare routine.
Rose for Skin Care
So why do I use rose for my skin in particular? Easy—the benefits are incredible! I’ll be sharing more below, but when it comes to gentle, healing properties, it’s hard to beat rose.
Rose Water Benefits for the Face
Rose has natural astringent qualities that can help tighten and support your skin tissue, leading to naturally firm skin. Rose can also help tone your skin by lightening age spots or blemishes.
Rose water delivers those healing benefits of rose in a gentle and effective way. Rose water has been used for centuries by numerous cultures for this very reason!
The one thing that is a bit challenging about DIY rose water is that it needs to be used immediately. It does not stay fresh. Because of this, I often buy my rosewater from an organic, high-quality source.
Rose Water vs Rose Hydrosol
You may have also heard of rose hydrosol before. Rose water and rose hydrosol are two different things, however. For this diy rose toner recipe, it’s important to use rose water instead of hydrosol.
What is Hydrosol?
Hydrosols are essentially “flower waters,” that are produced by distilling parts of flowers like petals and leaves. They have similar properties to essential oils but are less concentrated.
On the other hand, rose water is made only using the actual flower, without any stems or roots.
The difference is subtle, but it’s there.
Where can I Buy Hydrosol?
If you want to give hydrosol a try, you’ll need to purchase it. Just make sure you buy from a trusted brand.
Witch Hazel in Skincare
The other major component to a DIY rose toner is witch hazel. Witch hazel is an incredible tool for your skin, particularly when you pair it with rose water!
Benefits of Witch Hazel
Witch Hazel is plant-derived, coming from the leaves and bark of the Hamamelis virginiana. Similar to rose water, witch hazel has natural astringent properties that help correct your skin.
Witch hazel is also very gentle. In fact, it has been commonly used as a diaper rash treatment on young babies and was shown to work just as well as a commercial diaper cream.
It is also fantastic for skincare after sunburn, so if you get too much sun try using witch hazel to help your skin heal.
How to Make Witch Hazel
You can make your own witch hazel, but similarly to rose water it will need to be used immediately. If you want to give it a try, I have a blog post showing you exactly how to make your own witch hazel toner.
Where to Buy Witch Hazel
Because of the shelflife, I often purchase witch hazel. I use the brand Thayers, and my favorite is the pure witch hazel, particularly for this rose water toner recipe.
Making a rose water toner is SO simple! Honestly, this can be put together in mere minutes and make a massive difference in your skincare!
Ingredients for Rose Toner
Make Your DIY Rose Water Toner
Mix ingredients in a small atomizer. You can store the rose face toner in the refrigerator for up to one week. It doesn’t keep for long and it’s best used fresh, so make in small batches and discard any leftovers.
Remember, your skin is your body’s largest organ and takes a lot of abuse. Keep it healthy and happy with plant-based natural beauty products like this easy DIY rose toner. I promise you, your skin will thank you!
More Natural Beauty Recipes with Rose:
DIY Rose Water Toner
Rose water toner is easy to make and provides countless healing benefits to your skin. Give this simple DIY natural beauty recipe a try and keep your skin happy!
This recipe will keep fresh for about a week, so I recommend making it in small batches that last you 5-7 days.
A city girl who learned to garden and it changed everything. Author, artist, Master Gardener. Better living through plants.
I have been coerced into learning new skills and trying new hobbies for as long as I’ve been with my husband. When we were in college, he pressured me into skiing. Throwing oneself down a steep mountain, in freezing temperatures, strapped to skinny planks, is not something that my immigrant family ever thought I’d need to learn. I survived, even had fun, but from then on, I knew better than to automatically agree to whatever “fun idea” he had up his sleeve.
Here are some things my hobbyist husband has proposed we try that I’ve firmly said no to: ice climbing, a rafting trip, a bike tour, surfing, marathon running, ballroom dancing, a greenhouse, a pizza oven. Things I’ve grudgingly said yes to: fly fishing, snowshoeing, cross-country skiing, curling, paddle-boarding, rock climbing, a Dead & Co. concert, a dog. I don’t regret any of my decisions, but aside from our pup (who is now my favorite child), I haven’t truly taken to any of his obsessions. They’re his fixations, not mine.
Recently, though, after much lobbying on his part, I agreed to have a sauna built in our small yard—and now I’m almost as obsessed as he is. Maybe that’s because sauna bathing doesn’t involve special gear or physical training, and the only skill you really need to have is to be able to sit still. But I think there’s more to it. Here’s how I learned to love sweating in a claustrophobic space.
Above: Our Finnleo Northstar Sauna. We opted for a dark stain in lieu of paint. If you’re interested in building your own, my husband tells me that Trumpkin’s Notes on Building a Sauna is considered the bible for constructing a traditional Finnish sauna. If you’re interested in reading the dense manual, you can find it here. And if you’re not, congratulations—you have a life.
1. Use it as stealth therapy.
Our sauna is very small, but my husband and I can comfortably use it at the same time without the threat of mingling sweat. It also helps that the bench faces a wall with a glass door and window, both of which nicely frame a corner of our garden. The tight confines also happen to be conducive to having all sorts of discussions with your partner. There’s something about sitting next to each other, but not facing each other, that takes the sting out of touchy subjects and the annoyance out of mundane ones. Plus, in such a hushed, tight space, raised voices are simply not an option.
If there has been soil erosion, you may need to supply more to secure and cover the roots.
Once spring comes, there’s usually rain. But if there isn’t at least an inch per week, provide supplemental irrigation.
Cold-stressed flora benefits from consistent moisture for recovery. Just don’t overdo it – no soggy soil.
It’s a good idea to promote lush foliar growth by fertilizing recovering bushes in the spring. Use an all-purpose, slow-release granular product per package instructions.
Never fertilize at the end of the growing season, or you’ll end up with soft, weak stems that don’t have time to build strength and harden off before winter.
Shrubs that are stressed by adverse weather conditions are more vulnerable to pests and diseases than healthy ones, so it’s wise to rehabilitate ASAP.
Preventative Methods
In addition to knowing the signs of injury and how to restore affected foliage, there are proactive steps you can take to give your shrubs a leg up on weathering the worst.
Here are five:
Plant in locations with shelter from wind, such as near building foundations and fences.
Before the first frost of fall, water deeply at the soil level to allow stems to take up water and essential nutrients just prior to dormancy.
Fertilize in spring with a well-balanced, slow-release fertilizer to stimulate healthy foliar growth.
As summer draws to a close, place a two-inch layer of mulch over the roots to help minimize ground soil temperature fluctuations, inhibit heaving, and aid in moisture retention.
Wrap dormant shrubs in burlap for added protection.
Burlap is an excellent protective fabric because it allows for good airflow, which is still essential, even in chilly weather. With poor circulation, foliage is more susceptible to fungal diseases.
Cover small bushes entirely and wrap the bundle with twine.
For larger ones, create a shelter using tall, sturdy stakes with burlap wrapped around them.
The top branches will likely be exposed, but even so, the overall warmth and wind resistance will be greater with perimeter coverage.
Temperatures that plunge suddenly, fluctuate wildly, and remain low for prolonged periods can cause harm that ranges from mild setbacks with snapped twigs and fewer blooms, to devastating cases of fatal winter kill.
Sometimes one shrub fails to survive a rough winter, while another sails through unscathed. This can happen because no two plants or their locations are exactly alike.
A host of differences may exist, such as:
Overall, hardy forsythia that is grown in the appropriate zones is resilient and more likely to weather cold blasts than it is to fall victim to them.
How do you protect your forsythia from the winter chill? Let us know in the comments section below!
Known for soothing aches and pains, people have been using Epsom salts for years topically on the body, ingested as a supplement, and even as a gardening secret ingredient (spoiler alert: don’t!). Most people use Epsom salts without even knowing what it truly is, so I’m breaking down some of the common myths, best uses, and Epsom salt benefits you can utilize at home.
Epsom salt was first discovered in England during the 17th century. People soon realized there was something very special about it! Fast forward to today, and you can find it at just about any pharmacy or grocery store.
Chances are, you’ve used Epsom salts before in the bathtub, whether that was due to advice from a doctor, massage therapist, or your mom. If you are like me, at the beginning, you probably had no idea why you were doing so or what those magical crystals even were.
Today, I want to break down some of the most common uses and benefits of Epsom salt, as well as debunk some myths surrounding the use of Epsom salts in the garden. When properly used, it can be a really great ingredient to have in the home!
This post will cover…
What is Epsom Salt?
Epsom salt gets half its name from where it comes from and the other half from its chemical structure. These salts are originally found in the town of Epsom in England, where the mineral waters are very rich in Epsom salts.
And while it does have salt in the name, it’s very different from table salt. Only the chemical structure is similar.
A chemical compound, Epsom salt is made of magnesium, sulfur, and oxygen. Hence, it’s also known as magnesium sulphate. Magnesium is key to the success of Epsom salts and why it makes people feel good. Most people do not get enough magnesium in their diet.
While you can technically eat it, most people use Epsom salts externally as a bath salt. It dissolves right in the water and is used to treat many ailments. It’s easily found at grocery and drug stores in either the pharmacy or cosmetic sections.
Epsom Salt Uses
Magnesium and sulphate can be absorbed through the skin, meaning you do not need to consume them to get all the Epsom salt benefits. However, you can apply it both topically or take it as a magnesium sulphate supplement or even as a laxative.
As the fourth most abundant mineral in the body, humans require quite a bit of magnesium but few get enough of it. Adding Epsom salt to your regular routine can help you boost your mineral intake. While the best way to enhance your magnesium intake is by ingesting it, Epsom salt baths can help.
I use magnesium as the base in many of my bath salt recipes. Combined with herbs and essential oils, my baths become very therapeutic as well as enjoyable to the senses.
I also apply magnesium topically in this magnesium lotion to help soothe aches and pains before going to bed. It really has helped and remains one of my most popular recipes as others have found the benefits of adding magnesium to their routine.
While there have been few studies as to whether or not magnesium can actually be absorbed through the body, I can only speak from personal experience. It definitely does the trick for me and I have made it a part of my daily routine.
Epsom Salt Benefits
So what happens when you use Epsom salts and up your magnesium intake?
Boosts Sleep
Sleep, something we could all use more of I’m sure, can be enhanced by getting enough magnesium. The mineral helps to produce neurotransmitters in the brain that reduce stress and stimulate sleep. Likewise, low magnesium levels can result in poor sleep quality.
Relieve Aches and Pains
Many people also use Epsom salt to help with muscle aches and even relieve cramping. In fact, athletes will often soak in Epsom salt baths after exercising as part of their recovery. Lots of magnesium in the body helps your body use lactic acid and glucose.
In addition to helping muscles relax, magnesium sulphate also helps to reduce pain and swelling. Many people who suffer from arthritis and fibromyalgia use Epsom salt baths to help with their pain management. This is why I also highly suggest my magnesium lotion to help with all kinds of aches and pains.
Helps Ease Constipation
What people don’t talk about as often is how much it helps with constipation. Drawing water into your colon, magnesium sulphate helps to encourage bowel movements. For this effect, you want to take it orally rather than absorb it topically. An FDA-approved laxative, 2-6 teaspoons dissolved in water should do it!
Epsom Salt in the Garden
When it comes to using Epsom salts for plants, there are a lot of recommendations for it on the internet and social media. People tote it as their best-kept gardening secret or miracle cure they learned from their grandma. Whether or not you should use it has turned into quite a divisive topic.
And I hate to be the one to burst your Epsom salt bubble, but I would not recommend using it in the garden. Here’s why.
Blossom End Rot
One of the most common things people like to say about Epsom salts is that it helps to prevent and stop blossom end rot. This can be caused by a lack of calcium in the plant and its inability to pull enough from the soil. As we now know, Epsom salt is a fancy word for magnesium sulphate. No calcium whatsoever.
In fact, adding magnesiumto the soil can actually hurt your plant when it has a calcium deficiency. The magnesium and calcium ions in the soil compete to get into the plant.
It’s actually very rare to have calcium deficiency in the garden. Blossom end rot is most commonly from improper watering. Always water at the base of the plant so it gets deep into the soil.
Pests and Diseases
Some people also claim that mixing Epsom salt in water and applying it to plants can help eliminate all kinds of pests and diseases. In reality, there’s no real evidence to support this.
When it comes to pests and diseases, there is no blanket solution. You can learn more about different natural pest control methods here.
Fertilizer
In very rare cases, you can use Epsom salt as fertilizer. It’s a soluble method of adding magnesium and sulphur to the soil. But most home gardens are not deficient in these two minerals. Typically, only very acidic and sandy soils for commercial crops would require this.
Most of the time, gardens are deficient in macronutrients such as phosphorous, nitrogen, and potassium. While people say that Epsom salts can make your roses bloom more, result in fruit bigger and more prolific, and result in lusher gardens, most of these are typically associated with macronutrients rather the magnesium sulphate.
Since it’s so water-soluble, using magnesium sulphate in the garden when you don’t need it can actually pollute groundwater.
Frequently Asked Questions About Epsom Salt
How Does Epsom Salt Work?
Magnesium sulphate can be easily absorbed through the skin, increasing your body’s overall magnesium levels. Most people, especially those after exercise, take Epsom salt baths with the salt dissolved in the water and soak in it. This can help improve muscle function and pain in the body.
Magnesium sulphate can also be ingested for use as a supplement or laxative.
What Is Epsom Salt Good For?
Also known as magnesium sulphate, Epsom salt helps to increase the overall levels of magnesium in the body. Since most people are deficient in magnesium, increased levels of the mineral can help improve sleep, pain management, nerve and muscle function, and energy levels.
How Long Should You Soak in Epsom Salt?
To reap the benefits of an Epsom salt bath, you need around 2 cups of Epsom salts for the average-sized bath. Once fully dissolved, soak yourself in the tub for at least 15 minutes to receive the effects of mineral baths.
After your bath, keep well hydrated and try to relax for at least two hours. For this reason, an Epsom salt bath is best done in the evening once you’ve done everything you need to do for the day.
When Should You Not Use Epsom Salt?
Most side effects from Epsom salts result in oral use. If taken in extreme amounts, it can cause nausea, headaches, and lightheadedness. But if taken in the right amounts according to a package or doctor, you shouldn’t experience any intense side effects.
Epsom salts should not be consumed by pregnant women, children, and those with kidney conditions. If you’re ever unsure, it’s always a good idea to consult with your doctor first.
And of course, do not use them in the garden. They provide no real value to the average home gardener and can pollute groundwater.
Can Epsom Salt Help With Constipation?
It sure can! Epsom salt is actually listed as an FDA-approved laxative.
To use Epsom salt as such, dissolve 2-6 teaspoons into an 8-ounce glass of water. Drink the whole glass and you should experience laxative effects as soon as 30 minutes later upwards to 6 hours. Just make sure you’re using supplement-grade Epsom salt. You don’t want any of the cosmetic bath salts that have fragrance and colouring.
You may experience bloating and diarrhea, known side effects of consuming magnesium sulphate. Be sure to drink plenty of water to help reduce these symptoms. It also should not be a regular solution but an occasional laxative.
I hope you have learned something new today, whether that’s the benefits of Epsom salts or to keep them out of the garden. Let me know if you have any more questions about using Epsom salts in the comments down below!
More Ways to Use Epsom Salts
A city girl who learned to garden and it changed everything. Author, artist, Master Gardener. Better living through plants.
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Knowing your needs will help you select the right types for your property.
Be aware that while formal varieties require pruning on a regular basis, even informal ones may benefit from occasional clipping.
Let’s look at the highlights of each.
1. Blue Arrow Juniper
Evergreen Juniperus scopulorum ‘Blue Arrow’ juniper is a fast-growing cultivar for Zones 4 to 9. It has distinctive blue-green foliage and a trim, formal profile.
The branches of this upright juniper curve slightly from the base, spreading one to two feet and coming to a graceful point at a height of 10 to 15 feet.
It’s the perfect small space solution where privacy is desired.
Common lilac (Syringa vulgaris) has deciduous leaves and robust panicles of lavender to purple spring blossoms for a flouncy, informal appearance. It is well-suited to Zones 3 to 7.
Mature heights are an imposing 12 to 16 feet tall with a spread of eight to 12 feet.
Allow it to achieve its full stature unimpeded for a low-maintenance, wildlife-friendly perimeter barrier.
Passersby are sure to turn for a second look when they see Double Take™ scarlet quince (Chaenomeles speciosa ‘Scarlet Storm’) lighting up your early spring landscape with bright red double-petaled, camellia-like flowers.
It is suited to full sun placements in Zones 5 to 9.
This ornamental, fruitless cultivar is thornless for easy pruning post-bloom. It has a branching growth habit and foliage to the ground for no unsightly “bare legs.”
Mature dimensions are a modest three to four feet tall and four to five feet wide, making it a substantial yet friendly property divider.
Proven Winners® ColorChoice® Funshine® abelia (Abelia x grandiflora‘Minacara1’) brings color and fragrance to Zone 6 to 9 landscapes in full sun or partially shaded locations.
Yellow-orange spring foliage deepens to yellow green in the summer, and flames orange and red in the fall.
From summer into fall, sweetly fragrant, trumpet-shaped, lavender blossoms attract a host of pollinating bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds.
Cold-hardy, evergreen Euonymus japonicus ‘Green Spire’ has a columnar form with uniform, upright branches densely packed with small glossy green leaves well-suited to formal pruning.
Tiny greenish blossoms subtly accent the foliage in late spring to early summer.
Mature dimensions are six to eight feet tall and one to two feet wide, perfect for shielding small or large-scale living spaces from unwanted visibility.
You may be surprised to find an annual flower in a best hedges round-up. Okay, this isn’t a shrub, but it’s a fun option to consider.
Unlike more permanent options, Lemon Hedge sunflowers (Helianthus annuus ‘Lemon Queen’) offer growers the unique opportunity to mass plant for a temporary midsummer to fall botanical divider for separating garden spaces, creating privacy around patios, and edging walkways.
Plants have a dense, multi-stemmed growth habit, heights of 36 to 48 inches, and a spread of 14 to 18 inches.
Buxus ‘Little Missy’ is a dwarf boxwood cultivar prized for its high resistance to boxwood blight.
It has the signature small leaves and rounded form of larger boxwoods, but does not suffer from bare legs as it is compact and dense to the ground.
Mature dimensions are a diminutive two-and-a-half to three-and-a-half feet tall and wide for a low-profile formal border around specimen plantings or beside sidewalks.
The ‘Maki’ yew pine, aka Japanese yew pine or bigleaf podocarp, is a small, slow-growing cultivated variety of Podocarpus macrophyllus.
It is a soft-needled evergreen for Zones 7 to 11 with dense foliage to the ground that is easy to prune for a structured, formal hedge.
Despite the common name, this shrub is neither a yew nor a pine.
‘Maki’ is a non-flowering shrub that grows best in full sun to part shade. It reaches a height of eight to 12 feet with a spread of four to five feet, perfect for a wind or privacy screen.
Celebrate the first day of spring with Fine Gardening on March 20, 2026, during a special live webinar that looks ahead to one of our most anticipated travel experiences of the year: the Stunning Gardens of the Netherlands tour in September 2026. Join Annie Guilfoyle, acclaimed UK garden designer and co-host of the upcoming tour, along with Fine Gardening editors Danielle Sherry and Carol Collins, for an engaging, behind-the-scenes conversation about Dutch garden design, travel inspiration, and what makes this journey so special.
This interactive webinar is your chance to ask questions directly, hear insider stories, and get a closer look at the gardens, designers, and cultural experiences that will shape the Netherlands tour. Annie and company will share insights you won’t find in the itinerary alone. Whether you’re already considering joining us in the Netherlands or love learning about lesser-known horticultural gems, this spring-kickoff event offers inspiration, expert perspective, and a preview of what promises to be an unforgettable garden travel experience.
Award-winning garden designer, RHS Chelsea Flower Show judge
Garden Masterclass co-founder Annie Guilfoyle combines running a successful garden design consultancy with lecturing and writing on the subject around the globe. Her design work has been featured on several television programs, including Small Town Gardens on the BBC. She is a garden course consultant at West Dean College near Chichester, West Sussex, and teaches a monthly course called The Art and Craft of Garden Design at Great Dixter House and Gardens. Annie’s down-to-earth personality and witty sense of humor make her popular in international horticulture circles.
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Sturdy Structure: The small garden shovel with D-handle, ergonomically designed grip can increase the grip of the hand when using, the handle is made of strong fiberglass, will not bend and break under heavy pressure. Quick Digging: Well-made digging shovel has a sharp blade, and the round shovel head is designed to easily penetrate the soil and cut quickly while digging to enhance your work efficiency.
Planting in a Post-Wild World: Designing Plant Communities for Resilient Landscapes
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Confession: It took me nearly two weeks to unpack my suitcase from our first Fine Gardening tour in 2025. Not because I’m a procrastinator (well, I am but not generally about unpacking), but because each time I went to take something out of my bag, I found myself replaying a memory from the trip. A small terra-cotta pot from a Bath potter that I purchased at Special Plants Nursery reminded me of the nursery owner, Derry Watkins, and finding out she was originally from Connecticut, just like me. The map of the gardens at Hauser & Wirth in Somerset designed by Dutchman Piet Oudolf recalled the delicious red wine we shared at a group luncheon on-site. The conversations. The shared awe. The feeling that we weren’t just seeing gardens, but understanding them in a deeper, more meaningful way.
So, when we began planning our 2026 tour to the Netherlands, I felt that same spark return—only this time, it came with confidence. We had learned what worked, what surprised us, and what made the experience feel special rather than scripted. And now, we get to build on that success. Was it pulling that map out of my worse-for-wear suitcase that inspired the location choice for our 2026 tour? We may never know!
One of the things I’m most excited about this year is welcoming Annie Guilfoyle back into the fold. Having Annie with us again feels a bit like traveling with a trusted guide who also happens to know everyone you’d really want to meet. Through her connections, we’ll be stepping into private gardens and design conversations that go far beyond the usual tour experience—perhaps most notably with Tom de Witte, whose personal garden is nothing short of breathtaking. It’s layered, thoughtful, and deeply expressive, and I already know it’s going to be one of those gardens people talk about long after we return home.
Then there’s Arjan Boekel’s Superbloom project in Arnhem, which I can’t stop thinking about. In my mind, this space is the Netherlands equivalent of Chicago’s Lurie Garden, designed unsurprisingly by another Dutch native, Piet Oudolf. Superbloom is a powerful example of what’s possible when creativity, persistence, and ecological thinking collide. Built on a former industrial site and subjected to brutal conditions—hot sun, poor soil, hardscaping constraints—the landscape is vibrant, resilient, and full of life. I’m especially looking forward to spending time with Arjan himself. His energy is contagious, and hearing firsthand how he transformed such a challenging site into something so joyful will likely be a highlight of the entire trip.
Another moment I’m especially looking forward to is our visit to the gardens of Mien Ruys. As a truly groundbreaking female landscape architect, her influence reaches far beyond the Netherlands, shaping modern garden design around the world. Learning more about her life and legacy—especially alongside fellow gardeners—feels deeply meaningful to me. As a woman who has made horticulture her career, standing in a place created by someone who helped pave that path will be a peak moment, no question.
I also want to take a moment to say thank you to Kristin Beane Sullivan from our sister publication, Garden Gate. Kristin has led a garden tour to the Netherlands before, and her insight has been invaluable. Knowing what to embrace—and just as importantly, what to avoid—has helped us shape this tour into something thoughtful, seamless, and truly enriching. Her guidance has made this experience better in ways both big and small.
And finally, I’m thrilled that Fine Gardening editor Carol Collins will be joining us on the journey. Having another staffer along for the ride (a canal boat ride, in this case) adds an extra layer of fun and camaraderie. There’s something special about sharing these moments not just with readers, but with colleagues who love gardens as much as I do.
This tour feels like a celebration—not just of Dutch garden design, but of curiosity, connection, and the joy of learning together. I can’t wait to see where these gardens take us next.
Looking forward to seeing you there, Danielle
P.S. I have it on good authority the Netherlands is a bit of a foodies’ paradise, too. In case you’re wondering what I’m most looking forward to trying, the answer is simple: Bossche bol. It’s a large cream puff filled with whipped cream and covered in chocolate. Holy yum.
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‘THE DREAM has always been a rainbow of peas.” That’s what Dylana Kapuler, co-owner of Peace Seedlings, said to me more than a decade ago, and that dream continues to fuel a passion for breeding colorful, edible-podded peas at the organically managed, Oregon-based seed company.
Ready to think beyond your basic green pods and expand your palette to purple and yellow and even reddish shades, including ones with flowers and gorgeous colors that hummingbirds especially love, too? Dylana Kapuler and Mario DiBenedetto, who founded Peace Seedlings in 2008 after helping Dylana’s parents, Alan and Linda Kapuler, with their longtime seed-breeding project called Peace Seeds, have built on the impressive legacy of Alan’s decades of organic seed breeding—including colorful peas.
They also have lots of other legumes, including 15 kinds of edamame, and we talked about how easy those are to grow, too, among other catalog features.
Their catalog is old-school style: Browse the variety list on their website, write up your order, and put it and your check for seeds and shipping in an envelope.
Read along as you listen to the Feb. 9, 2026 edition of my public-radio show and podcast using the player below. You can subscribe to all future editions on Apple Podcasts (iTunes) or Spotify (and browse my archive of podcasts here).
Margaret Roach: Busy, busy? Has seed season been revving up this month?
Dylana Kapuler: Definitely seed-packing season. And here in Oregon, definitely spring always starts early and we’re ready to start planting peas and all sorts of other things.
Margaret: Oh my goodness. Yeah, like much of the country, we’re frozen in the Northeast.
Mario DiBenedetto: We’ve had a very mild fall and I mean now even the beginning of winter-
Dylana: I was going to say we hardly had winter, really.
Mario: Yeah, we were ready just to skip winter and go from fall to spring, but winter did decide to come last week for a few days. We had some low 20s, but nothing that peas can’t take. At least we’ve selected ours for planting them out early, usually February, sometimes even January. And in our climate, we have enough days or nights in the 40s, days in the upper 40s-lower 50s, that they germinate, come up, and then by the time spring comes, they’re ready to jam.
Margaret: So the sort of history of your peas, it started with your father, I suppose, Dylana, breeding peas? So is some of the oldest sort of genetic material or whatever we want to call it, some of the oldest varieties, how old do you think?
Dylana: Oh gosh. My Dad started growing, well, breeding peas in I’m sure probably the 90s, maybe actually even 80s, he started playing in the peas. He really was inspired by[Gregor] Mendel and kind of blown away by all his discoveries and intrigue of peas in general, and read a lot of about Mendel, which is an old-school way, old-school pea breeder, for those that don’t know.
Margaret: Sure, of course.
Dylana: Most people know, but I thought I’d throw that in there. He also really was kind of put off by all the PVPs and-
Mario: Privatization.
Dylana: The privatization of a lot of the pea varieties that were available. And so he wanted to make peas that didn’t have any strings attached. And so the first pea that he did was ‘Sugaree,’ which is just your classic delicious green vine pea. Very standard, but was a step above the ones that had PVPs [Plant Variety Protection], so you could save your own seeds as much as you want.
Margaret: It’s kind of like the open-source idea of seed genetics, so that they were open-pollinated/open-source. Nobody was patenting them, so to speak [laughter].
Dylana: Yep, you got it. And then he also really was very quickly, it was like, well, how do I make an edible purple pea? So he’s spent a good 20 years trying to make the first of its class of edible purple pea snap pea.
Mario: Because there was purple shelling peas, or there’s some old European varieties that were purple shelling peas. So the genetics were out there, but just not an edible-podded purple.
Margaret: Oh, I didn’t know that. There were shelling peas with the purple pod. That’s interesting.
Dylana: So he spent the first decade making the cross in the wrong direction and didn’t get anywhere but a bitter pea. And so then he went back and started making the crosses in a different direction and then created ‘Sugar Magnolia’ [top of page], which was of its own kind, a delicious, really tall vine, purple-flowered, purple-podded snap pea.
Margaret: That’s wonderful. And it’s become quite a hit, I think. I mean, other seed companies carry it mean it’s become quite a thing. People love it, I think, who have seen it and tried it.
Mario: Yeah, it’s definitely become one of the more distributed pea varieties that he bred probably at this point.
Dylana: Well, ‘Green Beauty’ [above] was also a standard more of a snow pea, but when you let it mature—we kind of call it a snow-snap, because when you let it mature, it gets really delicious and amazing and big and plump, and hands-down, one of the most amazing peas that he bred, in my opinion, in terms of flavor and versatility. We’ve gotten a lot of rave reviews about it.
Margaret: So that’s ‘Green Beauty.’ Now, I believe years ago when we spoke about peas, not on the podcast, but just together, you called them “puffer pods,” is that right? [Laughter.] Did I make that up? Do you call then puffer pods?
Mario: We did use that terminology. Yeah. I mean, it is a unique trait.
Margaret: Yes.
Mario: I mean, shell peas actually do it as well. They sort of puff up if you are paying attention. And a lot of people think that snow peas should be picked flat, which you can pick a snow pea flat; that’s fine. But if you let the seeds mature—I mean, just like a snap pea, they’re a lot sweeter once they mature. And a lot of snow peas are that way. Some get woodier, but ‘Green Beauty’ is one of those you let it fully puff up, fully mature almost as fat as a snap pea, but it’s a snow pea, and it is the most delicious pea and has that a unique crunch. That’s the thing. The puffer pods have this crunch that’s almost comparable to a potato chip, or just that satisfying texture in your mouth.
Margaret: Yeah, no, that’s the kind of peas that I like the most because it’s sort of like you’re getting the two-for-one thing, and like you say, it’s that textural thing as well as the flavor thing. But it is counterintuitive as you see the pods get to a certain size. If you have never grown one of these snow-snaps—I think it’s a good term that you’ve made up for them—if you’ve never seen what you’re thinking, “Oh gosh, the pod’s going to be all stringy and nasty and woody,” and “Oh, I’ve let it go too far. I’ve let it go too far.” Do you know what I mean? Yeah, because not all varieties can do that, can go that far.
So your focus really is edible-podded peas, right? Not shelling peas, is that correct?
Mario: Yeah, that’s pretty much.
Dylana: There’s one old heirloom that we grow, ‘Multistar,’ that’s a bush shell pea that we grow and offer in our seed list, but it’s just because it’s an awesome variety. I love to have shell peas in the freezer regardless.
Mario: But all the varieties that we have bred, we’ve focused on edible pods of both snaps, snows and some that are sort of in-between.
Margaret: Right. And the colors: So your father, Dylana, knew that—Alan knew that there was purple in the genetics of peas, in the shelling peas, and he worked to try to get that in. You have some that are yellow pods and you have some that are almost like a, I don’t know, like they’re blushed or reddish kind of looking, all kinds of stuff going on. I mean, how does that all happen [laughter]?
Dylana: Totally. So the yellow also, he did develop a yellow snap pea that he used ‘Golden Sweet,’ which is a snow pea and a old Indian variety, I believe, to make ‘Opal Creek,’ which is a yellow snap vine. And so that was the yellow that he created.
And it’s a—well, I’m going to go off on tendrils for a second, because it’s a regular tendril pea, which most people are more familiar with. A regular tendril has got a curl with a handful of little curls off of it. Whereas he started breeding hypertendril peas, we call them, which is more like… I mean, I don’t know the best way to call it is a hypertendril, it’s like 10 tendrils put together or something. So it has the ability to hold on and take care of itself better than most peas. They’re a lot easier to trellis considering.
Most all the peas we have bred so far are vines. They hold onto the trellis a lot better than regular tendril peas, which is to me a big deal, because I love peas, but definitely if you get some kind of stormy weather in the spring, you can end up with some peas pulling off the trellis. So in a lot of the breeding that we’ve done, we’ve continued pushing for more and more hypertendril peas.
Margaret: Right. No, it’s a great, and the first time I saw it when I grew one of your varieties, I was like, “What the heck is this?…” [laughter], because like, really, it’s a difference. I don’t know if it’s like 10 to 1 or whatever, but the little curlicue things, there’s more of them, and they really do hold on, and it’s great. It’s quite different.
The other thing that’s different is a lot of peas that are the sort of brand-name generic, ubiquitous pea varieties—some of which are great tasting and so forth, but as you point out, a lot of them are kind of the patented types or whatever; they’re not open-source—a lot of them have white flowers. And you have a lot that when I grew them, wow, some of the flowers were just—I thought it was almost like I was growing the floral sweet peas. Do you know what I mean? It was like, they’re just beautiful flowers. So that diversity comes in from all over the place? [Below, ‘Purple Beauty.’]
Mario: That might’ve been from the purple-podded peas, I think was where that…. that’s a good question. Yeah, I mean, so Dylana’s Dad originally did making the ‘Sugar Magnolia’ and the hypertendril, so those purple genetics… I think one of the parents he used was this purple-podded ‘Parsley Pea’ is what they call it. And instead of tendrils, it had leaflets, and it’s very unique; it’s a bush pea, a shelling pea-
Dylana: More of a salad plant is what it was sent to him as. Some friend sent it to him: “Oh, you might be interested in this. This is a really cool salad plant.” The tendrils, just like if anyone who doesn’t know to pick the top of a pea or the tendril of a pea at the right stage, and they’re absolutely delicious.
Margaret: Like pea shoots, so to speak. Pea greens, pea shoots. Yeah. Fantastic. Delicious.
Dylana: Yeah, and then really nutritious. I mean, a lot of the other part that my Dad was always really inspired by was how can we up the nutrition in regular vegetables that we already grow? And so that always was part of the inspiration behind purple-podded peas was purple-podded peas are high in anthocyanins. So getting more nutrition in our diet and all the ordinary vegetables that we eat is just going to benefit all of us.
Mario: And so he didn’t, I don’t think, realize that crossing that ‘Parsley Pea,’ they call it—it had leaflets instead of tendrils—that crossing that with a regular tendril was what created the hypertendril. And so that was just sort of an anomaly and part of the breeding process, when you bring together unique, obscure genetics, sometimes what you hope for is stuff to happen that you didn’t even realize. I mean, that’s good alchemy is getting greater than the sum of the original parts. Something new happens.
And so there was a lot of, to get his original ‘Sugar Magnolia,’ the purple pod, and the ‘Opal Creek,’ the yellow, and this large ‘Green Beauty,’ or at least ‘Green Beauty’ and ‘Sugar Magnolia,’ because those are both purple flowers. So then we had a purple, a green and a yellow. And so the next thing was how do we get some of the rest of the rainbow?
And it was actually a woman in Europe who had an online blog. And this is when we were first starting in 2008 maybe, and she had a blog talking about making these bright red peas, and she had pictures of them and they were totally amazing, super-gorgeous, but they weren’t edible pods. And so it was like, whoa-
Dylana: And what led us down that rabbit hole, where my Dad found it, and she was using some of my Dad’s varieties as parents. And so then it lit the fire behind him again of, “Oh my God, we need to get back into this pea-breeding project.” It was kind of set aside because of all the things that you do in life.
Mario: So the realization was that to get red, you cross the purple and the yellow. I mean, it seems pretty obvious. So we finally did that, and that’s where we got the ruby color is that purple over a yellow pod. And that was as close as we had gotten to-
Dylana: So then we have ‘Ruby Beauty’ [above], which is a snow vine, and ‘Ruby Crescent,’ which is a snap of that similar color. And it’s just a unique color. It’s not quite the red that we had originally thought of creating at that moment, but-
Mario: When they’re young, they are pretty darn red. As they mature, the purple is more pronounced, so it’s more of a ruby color. We were still excited.
Dylana: The way they look in the garden when the sun comes through them is the work of art. It’s like stained glass. It’s just really amazing. And they taste delicious and I feel like bring a new hue, which is pretty fun and amazing.
Margaret: So in breeding peas, are you out there with a paintbrush moving pollen around, or what?
Dylana: In breeding peas, not quite with the paintbrush. We use the flower, the decapitated flower I guess, as the paintbrush. But yeah.
Margaret: O.K., so you’re moving… you’re taking flowers and touching them to one another.
Mario: What a lot of people don’t realize is that a pea flower, once it’s opened, it’s already pollinated. So they’re not dependent on pollinators to make pods. They’re fine, and they’re happy that bumblebees really love them; pollinators can come.
Dylana: The hummingbirds love them, as you said of the purple flowers [below].
Mario: But the reality is they’ve already pollinated themselves, and so you don’t get much outbreeding they call it. Because of that, they’re pretty self-fertile. And so to make a cross, you have to open a flower before it opens, or break apart a flower before it opens, and take pollen from a different one that’s mature and pollinate that flower. So yeah, it is, of all of the breeding, it is very hands-on, meticulous work.
Dylana: The first year, if you’re lucky, you get four or five seeds [laughter]. And then definitely every cross is a very coveted pod. And even the next year, I remember my 3-year-old when she was little, she went out and just picked some peas. I was like, “Wait, what are you doing?” Those first couple years are definitely very finite, the number of seeds that you get.
Margaret: Mendel must have been a patient man [laughter]. Apparently you have no shortage of other legumes, I noticed, I was looking at the list again this week on your website, and you have 15 kinds of edamame type soybeans, more green beans that I can count. And I mean, you definitely have a thing for peas and beans don’t you two? [Laughter.]
Dylana: Yeah, I feel like part of it is I grew up vegetarian, and my parents were always really passionate about having a diverse, nutritious diet. And obviously legumes are some of the highest in amino acids. And my Dad always was really passionate about, really, we don’t need protein, we need all the amino acids that make up the protein, that nourish us.
Mario: Your body breaks proteins down into these free amino acids. That’s what we use. So just a different way of thinking about nutrition.
Margaret: So the legumes are—and I’m a vegetarian for probably 50 years already, so legumes are an important part of that diet; so I get it. I didn’t know that was your reasoning. So that’s interesting.
Dylana: I don’t think it’s a preconceived reasoning, but when you say that, that’s what comes to mind is probably the natural reason behind it. I mean, there was also that in the Willamette Valley, people weren’t growing soybeans. And there was this amazing seed curator, Robert Lobitz, when my Dad was part of the Seeds Savers Exchange network, and he had this incredible list of soybeans. So him and my Dad became seed allies and mail-order friends, so to say. And he started ordering a lot of his soybeans and testing then, seeing how they grew in the Valley. And so then he started accumulating a collection of soybeans that grew really well for us. And I mean, edamame is such a fun crop, so delicious and so easy to freeze it and stash it. And yet not a lot of people realize how easy it is.
Margaret: It was like, “Margaret, why aren’t you growing these?” Because I mean, if I go to a restaurant that has them, I want a whole big bowl of them. I love them, and sort of just steamed with a little salt or whatever and eat them whole. So are they easy to grow? Are they like growing peas or is there some trick?
Dylana: They’re almost easier to grow. You don’t need a trellis. I mean, they are plant with a lot of structure. They hold their pods right on the plant. They pretty much, most edamame, they mature all at once. So when you have a mature edamame plant, you can cut the whole plant, take it out into the shade in the summer and strip all the pods off at once.
Mario: I think that like any garden plant, it comes down to timing. And the edamame are probably one of the later legume that you plant.
Dylana: For us at least. I mean, we have obviously a different season than some people.
Mario: But they like warmer soils, so it’s a little later into spring to get them to germinate. Well, I mean that’s really the only trick. Other than that they’re just as easy as any green bean or any other legume.
Margaret: Well, you have quite the list of those. There’s so many things on the list [laughter]. I always like to pore over your list and see what what’s on offer. You sort of have this sesame grex—tell me what the heck is that?
Mario: Well, yeah, and it’s one of the few things we don’t use the word grex, but yeah, maybe we do. We call it Shades of Sesame.
Margaret: Shades of Sesame, O.K.
Mario: It is a grex. I mean, we started with white, tan and black sesame, and we really like gomashio, we like za’atar, we like tahini. For a vegetarian, it’s a high-nutrition, good food. And so we had been motivated to grow our own. And then once we realized-
Dylana: It’s very subtropical, you have to also realize normally sesame is a subtropical crop. And so as Mario was saying, we realized we needed to interbreed them to maybe get them to work well in our climate outside. So, sure, we could grow them in a greenhouse, but we don’t really have a lot of greenhouse space, and we prioritize it for things that really need it.
Mario: And we wanted to select for hopefully something that people all over the country could be growing that would maybe be more adapted to cooler, cooler climates.
Dylana: So now we have this really epic, as we call it, Shades of Sesame. It’s got gray seeds and tan seeds, white seeds and black seeds, all the different mixes. And we’ve really made a lot of progress in getting it to grow better and better in our climate, and we can easily pull off a crop. I don’t know, I think we grew 10 pounds last year, which isn’t even that big of an amount of space. It’s actually impressive how much you can grow in a generally pretty small space. And what’s really cool about sesame is it’s a really easy—I mean, I guess I can’t really call it a grain because it’s not, but it’s similar to grains in certain ways. But the pods just open up. And so when the pods start opening up, you cut it and you let it finish drying, and then you can just shake it out and it just pours out of the pods.
Margaret: So it doesn’t need some kind of big processing.
Dylana: Exactly.
Mario: No, the term “open sesame,” it comes from the seed pod.
Margaret: [Laughter.] I didn’t know that. That’s so funny.
Mario: Yeah, if you space out, all of a sudden those pods are opening and your sesame is sort of on the ground in your field.
Margaret: I wanted to ask you about one more thing, which is amaranth, not just for flowers, but for microgreens.
Mario: Yeah, I mean, microgreens has been an interesting, really popular thing that’s happening right now all over. And so we’re at the Saturday market and we have friends there that are doing microgreens, and the red amaranth, the most common one, ‘Red Garnet,’ you can see why people grow it. It’s neon pink, it looks amazing. It’s high nutrition.
Dylana: Super-mild flavor.
Mario: And so it was just cool to see that as a thing. And obviously the microgreens people, they go through a lot of seeds. So obviously as seed growers you relate like, O.K., these are potential big customer base of people who want microgreens. And so we happened to be doing a bunch of amaranth breeding and realized, yeah, there was sort of a niche, so we started selecting for really bright yellow stems just to add another color spectrum into the microgreen world. So that is one of the things we’ve been doing with amaranth.
Margaret: Well, always good stuff from Peace Seedlings. Thank you guys for making time, Dylana and Mario, today to talk about it. And now go fill some more seed packets, and I hope I’ll talk to you soon again.
more from peace seedlings
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MY WEEKLY public-radio show, rated a “top-5 garden podcast” by “The Guardian” newspaper in the UK, began its 16th year in March 2025. It’s produced at Robin Hood Radio, the smallest NPR station in the nation. Listen locally in the Hudson Valley (NY)-Berkshires (MA)-Litchfield Hills (CT) Mondays at 8:30 AM Eastern, rerun at 8:30 Saturdays. Or play the Feb. 9, 2026 show using the player near the top of this transcript. You can subscribe to all future editions on iTunes/Apple Podcasts or Spotify (and browse my archive of podcasts here).
In Abilene, Texas, where summer temperatures regularly exceed 100 degrees and family life centres around home comfort, a functioning plumbing system isn’t a luxury – it’s essential infrastructure. When a water heater fails on a winter morning or a pipe bursts during a holiday gathering, the disruption extends far beyond inconvenience. It affects daily routines, family schedules, and the basic comfort that makes a house feel like home.
The difference between a minor plumbing issue and a household crisis often comes down to one factor: access to skilled professionals who can respond quickly and fix problems correctly the first time. For Abilene residents, this means understanding what separates competent plumbing service from merely adequate work, and knowing how to find help before an emergency strikes.
Common plumbing problems in West Texas homes
Abilene’s climate and water characteristics create specific challenges for residential plumbing systems. The region’s hard water, with high mineral content, accelerates wear on fixtures and appliances. Temperature extremes can also stress pipes and connections. Understanding these common issues helps homeowners recognise problems early:
Mineral buildup in water heaters: Hard water deposits accumulate in tanks, reducing efficiency and eventually causing failure. Regular flushing extends equipment life significantly.
Slab leak detection: Many Abilene homes are built on concrete slabs with pipes running underneath. Leaks in these lines are difficult to detect and can cause foundation damage if left unaddressed.
Pressure regulation issues: Municipal water pressure fluctuations can damage fixtures and appliances. Proper pressure regulation protects your investment in home systems.
Seasonal pipe stress: While rare, freezing temperatures do occur in Abilene. Uninsulated pipes in attics or exterior walls are vulnerable during cold snaps.
Drain line problems: Tree roots seeking water can infiltrate sewer lines, causing recurring backups that require professional clearing or pipe replacement.
Water damage and freezing account for nearly one in four homeowners’ insurance claims, with an average cost exceeding $11,000 per incident. Early detection and professional repair can significantly reduce these risks.
Sustainable plumbing practices
Water conservation has moved from environmental talking point to practical necessity in West Texas, where drought conditions periodically strain municipal supplies. Modern plumbing technology makes it possible to reduce water consumption substantially without sacrificing comfort or convenience.
Effective water-saving upgrades include:
Low-flow fixtures: Today’s efficient shower heads and taps use 30-50% less water than older models while maintaining strong, satisfying pressure through improved aerator design.
Dual-flush toilets: These systems offer different flush volumes for liquid and solid waste, reducing water use by up to 67% compared to older toilets.
Tankless water heaters: By heating water on demand rather than maintaining a large tank at constant temperature, these units reduce energy consumption and provide unlimited hot water.
Smart leak detectors: Wireless sensors monitor for moisture in vulnerable areas and send smartphone alerts, allowing homeowners to address leaks immediately even when away from home.
Greywater systems: Advanced installations can recycle water from showers and washing machines for landscape irrigation, though these require careful design and local code compliance.
Upgrading to efficient equipment and fixing leaks can reduce water consumption significantly, lowering both utility bills and environmental impact.
Selecting the right plumbing professional
Abilene has no shortage of plumbing services, but quality and reliability vary considerably. Choosing the wrong contractor can mean repeated service calls, incomplete repairs, and unnecessary expenses. Several factors distinguish professional operations from less reliable alternatives:
Proper licensing and insurance: Texas requires plumbers to hold state licenses for most work. Verify credentials and ensure the company carries liability insurance and workers’ compensation coverage.
Transparent pricing: Reputable companies provide clear estimates before beginning work and explain what’s included. Be wary of unusually low bids that may indicate shortcuts or hidden fees.
Comprehensive service range: Companies that handle both routine maintenance and complex installations typically have more experienced technicians and better equipment than those focused solely on repairs.
Local reputation: Long-term presence in the Abilene community and positive reviews from neighbours provide better reliability indicators than advertising claims.
Warranty coverage: Professional plumbers stand behind their work with guarantees on both labour and parts, protecting you if problems recur.
Abilene families can select plumbing professionals from Quality Cooling Heating & Plumbing, Dyess Plumbing & Septic, or Russell’s Plumbing for local service providers.
Protecting your home investment
For most Abilene families, their home represents their largest financial investment. The plumbing system, while largely invisible, plays a crucial role in protecting that investment. Water damage from failed pipes or fixtures can compromise structural integrity, create mould problems, and require expensive repairs that far exceed the cost of proper maintenance.
Smart homeowners can take several protective steps to protect their home:
Know the location of the main water shutoff valve and ensure all household members can access and operate it.
Install water alarms in areas prone to leaks: near water heaters, under sinks, and in basements or crawl spaces.
Maintain records of plumbing work, including installation dates for major equipment and warranties.
Schedule annual inspections rather than waiting for problems to develop.
Address small issues promptly before they escalate into emergencies.
The relationship between reliable plumbing and family comfort extends beyond avoiding disasters. Consistent hot water for morning showers, adequate pressure for multiple simultaneous uses, and confidence that systems will function when needed all contribute to the quality of daily life. When these systems work properly, they’re invisible. When they fail, they become the centre of attention at the worst possible times.
By understanding what quality plumbing service looks like, recognising common problems early, and maintaining systems proactively, Abilene homeowners can ensure their houses remain comfortable, efficient, and protected against the water-related issues that plague poorly maintained properties. The investment in professional service pays dividends in avoided emergencies, lower utility costs, and the peace of mind that comes from knowing your home’s essential systems are in capable hands.
These terrarium plants are best suited for the small, confined, humid environment that is unique to a closed-in terrarium. You can make incredible displays using a wide variety of different containers—many of which you may already have at home. Choosing the right terrarium plants makes it easy to enjoy these spectacular houseplants without fussing over their care.
Terrariums are a fun way to bring something different to typical houseplant displays. They are also incredibly easy to care for, provided you use the right plants to begin with. That’s why I’ve put together this list of the best plants for terrariums to help you experience the joy of indoor gardening!
Terrarium Containers to Try
Before we get into talking about the best terrarium plants, let’s chat quickly about the containers. Choosing your terrarium containers will have a huge impact on how the final project looks.
You can easily find suitable containers at a local gardening store, or even a thrift store. Of course, there are plenty of great online options too!
Just make sure to choose a glass container that has airflow—airtight containers will suffocate your plant. Here are a few of my favorite terrarium containers:
Remember, you can also go for the unexpected! It’s part of the fun of terrarium making. You can even make one of these terrarium nightlights for something unique. Just have fun with it—it’s hard to go wrong.
The Best Terrarium Plants
There is a seemingly endless amount of terrarium plants to choose from. I put together some of my favorites on this list, each with varying sizes, colors, and textures. I like to use a combination of plants so that they look pleasing when planted in combination with one another.
Remember, nothing with terrariums has to be permanent. That’s the beauty of plants! If you don’t like how it looks, or if you want to try a new look, simply rearrange them and try again.
Cryptanthus bivittatus
Cryptanthus bivittatus is more commonly known as “earth star.” This terrarium plant is a bromeliad that is small with a starburst shape. The spiky plant gets up to six inches tall and six inches wide and has foliage tinged with either bright pink or purple around the edges, so it really stands out against other plants in a terrarium.
This plant does well in sunlight, so if you find a sunny window, it might be the perfect spot for this terrarium plant. If your earth star looks pale, trying moving it to a brighter spot. Water them as often as you find the soil is dry with small amounts at a time.
Frittonia
Frittonia has the common name “nerve plant” because if they don’t get enough water they will fade quickly or “faint.” To prevent this, be sure to water them regularly. Don’t worry, though, they are easy enough to revive if you forget to water them—simply give the plant a good soak and it will spring back.
This terrarium plant likes humid environments and low light, so these plants are perfect to brighten up a dark corner of the house or even the bathroom. Plus, their vibrant pink, white, or red-veined leaves will add a pop of color wherever they are displayed. These plants tend to grow well with soil that can retain moisture but also drain well.
Peperomia orba
Also called “pixie” peperomia, this little houseplant grows well in both low light and bright conditions. These plants prefer their soil more dry than wet, so you do not need to over water.
If you have had a hard time growing indoor plants in the past, give this one a try. It does not need much attention at all and is a slow grower, so it is the perfect plant to plunk into a terrarium and not have to think twice about it. Plus, its variegated leaves are striking with bright white stripes which will add interest and contrast nicely with other plants in your terrarium.
Pilea
Pilea plants come in many different varieties, most of which thrive and look beautiful in terrariums. Some species have bright colors, interesting variegation, and saw-tooth leaves, while others are bright green with small, very round leaves, so there is a lot to choose from in terms of aesthetics. One of the most common varieties is the Chinese Money Plant, which works well as a larger terrarium plant or a house plant.
There are also creeping varieties which work well in terrariums as they will crawl and spill over the edges. These plants do well in either indirect sunlight or shade. Keep the soil relatively dry—you’ll be able to see the leaves slightly droop when more water is required.
Selaginella
Also known as “club moss,” Selaginella is a lush moss with delicate, lacy frills that make it look like something from an enchanted forest. It loves humidity and low-light conditions, making this one of the best terrarium plants. Keep the soil moist but not soggy and your club moss will be very content.
I have quite a fondness for moss as they add unexpected texture and visual interest while also being simple to care for. If you’d like to read more about moss plants in terrariums, read this post.
Tillandsia
I know I’m not supposed to have favorites, but when it comes to plants in terrariums…this may be the one. I’m wild about air plants, as you may have noticed. Tillandsia is a great choice for terrariums of all kinds as they don’t even need soil to grow. They come in a lot of different shapes, sizes, and colors and are easy to care for if you know the right tricks.
To keep these plants properly watered, remove the air plant from the terrarium completely. Then, allow it to take a nice soak in a bowl full of water for an hour or so before returning it home. Do this about once every month.
Love terrariums? Check out these projects:
A city girl who learned to garden and it changed everything. Author, artist, Master Gardener. Better living through plants.
As if gardening weren’t challenging enough, sometimes deer take up residence in your garden and decide to host a dinner party. There is nothing worse than planting a bunch of pricey new plants, only to have them nibbled down to the ground. To help you avoid this costly occurrence and disappointment, I’m sharing a handful of my favorite deer-resistant shrubs that I have tested out over the years in various gardens.
Word of caution: Every garden is different, every deer is different, and every season is different with varying degrees of available alternate food sources—so what may be unsavory to deer in one garden may be irresistible in another. Also, when plants are young, and the leaves and stems are tender, there is a higher chance that the plant will get snacked on; as the plant matures, it becomes less desirable. If this early munching happens, a deer-repellent spray can work if applied routinely and after any rain.
The plant is fondly called pink breath of heaven because crushing the needle-like leaves releases a pleasant scent. That same scent is what helps ward off deer. This low-maintenance shrub grows best in sunny spots and, depending on the variety, produces either dainty magenta, white, or pink flowers. ‘Sunset Gold’ offers bright golden foliage contrasting with pink flowers. It has moderate water needs and is hardy in USDA Zones 8-11.
These evergreen, easy-to-care-for shrubs come in various sizes, from low to tall, and make excellent informal or formal screens, low or high hedges, and ground covers. Because Westringia is in the mint family, the leaves aren’t appealing to deer. Most bloom profusely from late winter to early summer with petite flowers ranging in color from white to light lavender, putting them also in the bee- and small butterfly-friendly category. A sunny to mostly sunny spot and summer irrigation are appreciated. Hardy in USDA Zones 9-11.
Above: Leucadendron ‘Safari Sunset’. Photograph by Jean-Michel Moullec via Flickr.
Showing off vibrant color, some even in the winter, Leucadendrons are my go-to if I want structure, more visiting pollinators, year-round interest, and amazing sculptural cut flowers. Fast-growing, drought-tolerant, and low-maintenance, these shrubs can hover around three feet, though some tower to eight or more feet. Plant in a sunny spot for best growth and color. Pro tip: Avoid high phosphorous fertilizers as this can be extremely damaging. Hardy in USDA Zones 9-11.
Looking for a fast-growing shrub that pumps out curious spidery flowers that deer leave alone? Grevillea is your gal. Coming in a wide range of heights and shapes and colors, there is a Grevillea for every sunny garden. Need a low ground cover? Try Grevillea lanigera. Need a tall informal screen? Go for Grevillea ‘Red Hooks’. Oh, and these low-maintenance shrubs are also true hummingbird magnets. When planting, make sure your soil has sharp drainage. Hardy in USDA Zones 9-11.
Above: Photograph of Pieris japonica ‘Temple Bells’ is by James Gaither via Flickr.
This easy shrub not only offers year-round beauty and charming dangling flowers, but also the assurance that deer will leave it alone. Plant slow-growing Pieris in a shady to partly shady spot in a mixed border, woodland, or Asian-inspired garden; smaller varieties can be used in containers. Depending on the variety, it can grow anywhere from one foot tall to 12 feet tall, and two to eight feet wide. The flowers (coming in white, pink, and dark pink) are adored by bees and hummingbirds, and avoided by deer, who view them as toxic. Hardy in USDA Zones 5-8.
During the worst of the winter months, many of us retreat to the warmth and comfort of our indoor spaces. However, if you’re lucky enough to reside in a milder climate or find an attraction or activity that is worth bundling up for, the winter months are still a wonderful time to immerse yourself in the outdoors. Today, Beth Tucker from Waxhaw, North Carolina (Beth’s Early Summer Garden, Early Spring in Beth’s North Carolina Garden, Irises and More in Beth’s Garden, etc.), is sharing an incredible opportunity to get outside, support an excellent arboretum, and do a little reflecting on our environment. She recently made a trip to The North Carolina Arboretum in Asheville, North Carolina, and experienced the traveling sculpture installation called Trolls: A Field Study by Danish artist Thomas Dambo. There are 12 “Baby Troll” sculptures in this exhibition that range from 7 to 9 feet tall and are crafted from completely reclaimed and salvaged materials like fallen branches, wooden pallets, and twigs. Their stop in North Carolina is the first stop in North America, where they are “embarking on a curious journey to learn about humankind.” The trolls will be at The North Carolina Arboretum until February 17 and will move on to South Coast Botanic Garden in Palos Verdes Estates, California, in March.
This “on the road” isn’t about gardens so much as the magical creatures that can be found there. Thomas Dambo creates these marvelous trolls out of reclaimed lumber—these are from his Trolls: A Field Study installation at the North Carolina Arboretum in Asheville. We had such a wonderful time “troll hunting”; there were many children and dogs participating, wandering along the paths searching for the elusive trolls!
First up is the leader of the pack, a tenacious troll named Taks. In the lore of this exhibition, Taks was the first baby troll to wander out into the human world and, dumbfounded by what he saw, returned to his 11 siblings to bring them with him on this field study.
Next up is the artist of the bunch, named Wilde. A section of broken branch serves as a troll-sized writing utensil that is used to depict a human in a state most often seen by these trolls: behind a cellphone camera to take a photo. What a poignant yet humorous statement on how we interact with art!
And here’s a better view of Wilde, allowing you to see the incredibly expressive faces Dambo is able to create with reclaimed wood.
Many of Dambo’s trolls have a mischievous nature to them, and the trolls in this series are no different. It is not visible in this photo, but Bignut is attentively holding a string to a human-sized trap.
Boge is another curious troll trying to get a closer look. Many of Dambo’s sculptures encourage interaction, offering long limbs to climb onto or an outstretched hand to get into. This is even more prominent in the Field Study exhibition as the baby trolls explore and observe humankind. Boge’s clasping hands invite visitors to climb inside and offer themselves up for the troll’s amusement.
Lastly, a simple troll named Valle reminds us all to slow down. Surrounded by the stripped-back winter landscape, Valle shows us that rest can be just as important as action.
Thank you so much for sharing this amazing art installation with us, Beth! I was in awe of Dambo’s sculptures at Coastal Maine Botanical Garden, so I’m keeping my fingers crossed that this exhibition makes it to a botanical garden or arboretum closer to me.
Have you visited any public gardens this winter? From holiday light displays to art exhibitions and conservatory plant collections, there is often still plenty to see and do that help support these vital institutions when visitation slows. Consider telling us about your favorite public garden to visit in the comments, or consider sharing photos of your last trip with the blog. Follow the NEW directions below to submit your photos to Garden Photo of the Day!
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Gardener’s Supply Company Summerweight Fabric Plant Cover
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In their natural habitats, ambient humidity would fulfill a portion of their moisture needs, so water vapor is an important element of the environment for these cacti.
Epiphyllums will be happiest in conditions with at least 50 percent humidity.
There are a few different ways you can increase relative humidity, if needed. Misting the foliage with water from a spray bottle is an easy, low budget way to start.
Another method is to situate your houseplants in groupings to create a more humid microclimate.
Finally, if you want to step up your efforts a bit, using a humidifier near orchid cacti is an excellent way to help raise relative humidity.
Fertilizing
Starting about a month after flowering, begin fertilizing your orchid cactus with a gentle, balanced fertilizer to encourage foliage growth.
Young orchid cacti that are not expected to bloom can be fertilized this way starting a bit earlier, in early spring.
Dr. Earth’s Pump and Grow Indoor House Plant Food is a gentle fertilizer with a ratio of 1-1-1 (NPK) that will help nourish the cactus and encourage foliage growth.
You’ll find a 16-ounce pump container of Dr. Earth’s Pump and Grow Indoor House Plant Food available for purchase at Arbico Organics.
This or a similar product can be applied every two weeks from spring through autumn.
And to encourage blooming, switch to a low-nitrogen fertilizer in late autumn, then stop fertilizing during winter.
Be sure to follow the manufacturer’s instructions for application.
Any fertilizers with NPK ratios higher than 10-10-10 should be diluted.
Species and Cultivars
Choosing which type of epiphyllum to grow is lots of fun – there are so many choices!
Epiphyllums are sold as potted plants, rooted cuttings, or unrooted cuttings.
Some nurseries sell specimens that have been identified by their species or cultivar name, while others may just offer selections labeled as “white,” “yellow,” or “red,” in reference to bloom colors.
Now, let’s start looking at a few options!
Ackermannii
Commonly known as “red orchid cactus,” Disocactus ackermannii was formerly classified as an Epiphyllum species.
It’s still commonly referred to as E. ackermannii, which is considered a synonym.
This spring-blooming species bears red flowers that reach up to six inches across, remaining on the plant for a few days.
D. ackermannii. Photo by Georgfotoart, Wikimedia Commons, via CC BY-SA.
Stems range from seven inches to three feet long and have prominent veins and undulating margins.
D. ackermannii received the Royal Horticultural Society’s Award of Garden Merit in 2012.
Commonly known as “curly locks orchid cactus,” this naturally occurring subspecies has undulating stems that look like big, wavy locks of hair on older specimens.
Stems have a prominent midvein.
Classified as Epiphyllum hookeri ssp.guatemalense but also sometimes as E. guatemalense, this member of the Epiphyllum genus produceswhite blooms.
This variety is also sometimes called “curly sue” or Epiphyllum guatemalense ‘Monstrose.’
Oxypetalum
“Queen of the night” is the common name for the most well-known member of the Epiphyllum genus, E. oxypetalum.
This orchid cactus species, also known as “Dutchman’s pipe cactus,” has funnel-shaped, night-blooming flowers that can reach over seven inches wide.
Queen of the Night (E. oxypetalum).
The showy, fragrant blooms are white with gold sepals, and are short-lived, lasting one night only.
E. oxypetalum has stems that can reach up to 10 feet or more.
This species is also known as “lady of the night,” and “night-blooming cereus.” It shares those two names, as well as “queen of the night” with a few types of desert cacti that are members of the Cereus genus, such as C. peruvianus.
You’ll want to be sure you choose the right “queen of the night” for your purposes, since these two types of cacti have different care needs.
Three years ago we planted a “Horse” apple, also known as “Yellow Horse.”
We got ours from Century Farm Orchards and it is doing well. It gave us one fruit last year but we didn’t catch it before something got it (or it fell off).
A widely grown apple most likely originating in North Carolina before 1800. More than any other apple, most older southerners remember the Horse apple. There are several reasons for its widespread popularity. The tree is healthy, grows rapidly, produces large crops of big apples in the middle of summer, makes good cider, and cooks well. The Horse has a flavor unlike others. It is uniquely tart and will disappoint those who like sweet or hard apples. It is however, unforgettable. Fruit size is medium to large, yellow when ripe, possibly red on the sunny side. Flesh is yellow, soft (sometimes firm), and briskly subacid. Ripens late July into August.
“Unforgettable!”
Ha!
Any apple that produces here is interesting. Even a hard, weird apple has many uses, from pies to vinegar to drying, processing and animal feed.
We got some of them from a grafter and now have a few in stock at the shop, along with Yates, which is another interesting apple we’d like to try.
This apple originated in Fayette County, Georgia before 1860. This apple is small and has primarily been used as a cider apple. It is a good keeper and grows well even in the warmer areas of the south. Fruit small, skin a pale red with some darker stripes, and the flesh white, tender, juicy, aromatic, mildly subacid. Ripens in October.
We haven’t planted this one yet but I plan to snag one before they all disappear. The experiments continue…