“I love storytelling through design and art,” says Emily Thompson of Emily Thompson Flowers. “And what better material in the world to do that with than plants.” The sought-after floral designer, who has an M.F.A. in sculpture, taps into the wild and the witchy (“the dark arts,” she jokes) to create exuberant, gravity-defying installations and arrangements that celebrate the beauty and fierceness of nature—warts and all.
Above: A massive arrangement installed in a greenhouse. Photograph by Ingalls Photography
“I want people to understand how powerful these living things are,” she says. Using local growers and foragers whenever possible, she’s created showstopping work for fashion designers like Ulla Johnson and Jason Wu and museums such as The Frick Collection and the Whitney Museum of American Art; she’s even designed holiday decorations at the Obama White House.
Above: Emily, cutting wild grass in the French countryside a few years ago for a workshop. Photograph by Gemma Hart Ingalls.
“It all comes back to the living natures of plants,” she says. “We try to find ways to expose, dramatize, and, on some level, narrate them.” Below, she shares some of her floral favorites:
I use my basic ARS clippers for everything including very serious branches. We also love Fiskars PowerGear 2 ratchet loppers for large branches. And I just got a Fiskars Tree Pruner Pole Saw for Christmas for foraging.
Favorite floral design book?
Above: How to do the Flowers, by Constance Spry, was published in 1954; $82 for a used copy at Abe Books.
Constance Spry’s How to do the Flowers. The certainty!
I learned everything from her. I find a great kinship with her and the humbleness of what she strove to do. Her sense of materials is unmatched—and she didn’t have the resources we have now. She was ingenious as far as finding materials, procuring and growing them, and seeking ways to do things that nobody else would even bother trying with them.
I also love that she was wonderfully frumpy. She put on no airs, had no diva nature. She was a worker. She seemed like she loved to tackle the most ridiculous challenge: The most insane problem is her friend. She also understood context and how people would read flowers. I greatly admire her for her deep respect and clarity she gave to each flower and how she would show it to its greatest effect. She followed where the flower would lead her as opposed to forcing it into someone else’s idea of convention. Her imagination, inventiveness, and incessant reinvention—It’s all just so powerful.
Favorite place to visit for inspiration?
Above: Mossy boulders in the Northeast Kingdom of Vermont. Photograph courtesy of Emily Thompson.
I love extreme landscapes: volcanos; craggy, rocky, difficult places; and my family’s home in the Northeast Kingdom of Vermont.
Splurge-worthy flowers?
They are all very expensive, and much more so since Covid! I love poppies of all kinds, heirloom chrysanthemums make me wild, and I have a bottomless thirst for fritillaria of all kinds. But some other rare things I covet: Bessara, trollius, and lotus.
Seville in Spain is an internationally-known centre of Andalusian culture and passionate flamenco, and home of the libertine Don Juan and the gypsy Carmen. It is located on the banks of the Guadalquivir river and is the fourth largest city in Spain after Madrid, Barcelona and Valencia.
Thousands of visitors come to Seville to enjoy its breathtaking architecture and vivid historical past. Some of them visit Seville to explore the idea of buying a property. Villas for sale in Seville conquer the hearts of foreigners at first sight.
In this article, we will discuss the most popular attractions of the city and possible entertainment for future residents.
An overview of Seville in Spain
The old town of Seville consists of a maze of narrow streets, one of the most popular being the serpentine Calle Sierpes (Snake Street). Among the houses there are buildings built in the ancient Roman style with marble-lined courtyards.
Oriental architecture is common, with many houses having flat roofs and a maximum of two storeys. There are numerous public fountains in Seville, most of which are supplied by the famous Caños de Carmona aquaduct, built during the time of Julius Caesar. There are also 74 temples in the city.
Seville has a Mediterranean climate with hot summers and warm winters. Temperatures can top 45 degrees in August, and rarely drop below 5 degrees on the coldest winter days.
Districts of Seville
Seville can be roughly divided into four districts. All of them are highly attractive and definitely worth exploring.
1. Centro Historico
The Cathedral and the Giralda tower are the vivid representatives of the historical centre of Seville. The neighbourhood’s narrow streets are also home to some of the city’s best bars and restaurants. You will have no time to be bored, because you’ll be close to shops, tourist attractions, restaurants, nightclubs, and everything you need for a great vacation.
2. Triana District
Triana is a fashionable and rather unusual district of the city. In medieval times, when Seville was considered a wealthy port city, no one wanted to come to this area. However, times have changed and it has developed into an alluring tourist destination. A walk along the Calle Betis, which runs along the Guadalquivir river, is a pleasant experience. The terraces of numerous cafes offer magnificent views of Seville’s vastness. The area also houses multiple exhibitions of talented artists.
3. Santa Cruz District
Barrio Santa Cruz has a cosy square, traditional cafes, charming narrow streets, and typical Andalusian houses with fountains and internal patios. It is here that many symbols of Seville, such as the palace-fortress Alcázar, are located. The district is a perfect place for those who are looking for a peaceful atmosphere among the lush greenery.
4. Macarena District
This is one of Seville’s oldest neighbourhoods, with magnificent Mudejar and Baroque churches. While walking through the streets of Macarena, you will see the remains of the ancient walls (Murallas), built in Roman times. Another famous place is the convent of Santa Inés, whose founder was a noblewoman of Seville.
Real estate for sale in Seville
Buying real estate has always been a profitable investment, as the prices on apartments and villas only increase. The city of Seville in Spain is a beautiful place in terms of architecture and design. It is also highly desirable in terms of investing in real estate.
According to the official website Spain-Real.Estate, the city offers multiple exclusive villas at reasonable prices. To get more information about design, number of amenities, and other characteristics of accommodation for sale, visit the website Spain-Real.Estate.
Reasons to buy property in Seville
As a city with outstanding atmosphere and a popular tourist destination, Seville in Spain welcomes foreign real estate buyers to start a new life in a beautiful place. Among the convincing reasons to invest in the sector of real estate in Seville, we can highlight the following:
High quality of living.
Favourable climate and ecological conditions.
Extreme popularity among tourists.
Wide selection of housing.
Affordable prices and outstanding quality.
Opportunity to get a residence permit.
The city of Seville in Spain is not only a southern architectural wonder, it is also the heart of Andalusia. It is impossible not to fall in love with the city when walking along the narrow streets and looking at breathtaking masterpieces.
Seville is a great place for a permanent stay, or for renting your housing out. Therefore, it provides opportunities for all buyers of property in the area. Whether you are going to live in a stunning Spanish city, or intend to generate a passive income, you should consider Seville as a suitable destination.
Today we’re in Canton, Massachusetts, visiting with Jana Trusz.
Looking back at my garden during 2022, I have many lessons to learn. The drought was incredibly difficult and made me reevaluate what was in my garden, what survived and what didn’t, and how I will move forward. First, I will be installing a drip-irrigation system as soon as it is warm enough to do so; second, I will research plants that are drought tolerant and propagate more of what survived. One of my favorite ways to propagate new plants is through winter sowing. I have had great success with it, planting digitalis, delphiniums, lupines, and cosmos, to name a few, in mini-greenhouses on my deck.
The difficult year made the successes so sweet. Here are some of the vignettes discovered in my garden.
Black cohosh (Actaea racemosa,Zones 4–8) and impatiens (Impatiens walleriana,Zones 10–11 or as an annual)
I am one of those gardeners who sees the beauty in unusual places. I saw these happy Johnny jump-ups (Viola tricolor,cool-season annual) growing from a crack at the base of my stairs, and they brought a smile to my face.
I bought this dwarf ‘Ukigumo’ Japanese maple (Acer palmatum ‘Ukigumo’, Zones 5–9) years ago coming all the way from California. I nurtured it, kept it in a pot, lugged it into my shed, and nestled it in straw for the winter. I knew that as it aged it had the possibility of having white leaves in the spring. This was why I had to have it. Finally, I decided this little tree had to go into the ground, and I hoped for the best. It has these beautiful pagoda-shaped leaves that start out white and turn to mottled pink and green as the season progresses. I planted dogtooth violets below to mimic the leaf shape. It survived the drought and put on such a display. I drag neighbors walking by to see this marvel, expecting them to write down its name and ask where I got it. I am so awed by this beauty, but they seem fine with just seeing it in my yard.
Here are the dogtooth violets (Erythronium ‘Pagoda’, Zones 4–9) with the budding leaves of the ‘Ukigumo’ maple above them.
This was a Mother’s Day gift, and it never ceases to give me a delight each spring.Picea abies ‘Pusch’ (Zones 3–8) is small, easy to grow, and produces these beautiful raspberry-colored cones that eventually turn a beautiful shade of brown.
My cotoneaster (Cotoneastersp., Zones 4–8), the plant that spurs many a conversation about its proper pronunciation. I planted this many years ago, and it has grown into a waterfall. I love the way it spills over the wall. It has tiny pinkish white flowers in spring that turn to berries loved by birds. Eventually it sheds its leaves and berries but still provides a beautiful structure in the winter. There is an espalier apple tree (Malus hybrid, Zones 3–8) to the left, covered by sweet autumn clematis (Clematis terniflora,Zones 4–9).
My rhododendrons suffered greatly, even some of the large ones that are more than 30 years old. This dwarf ‘Black Widow’ rhodie (Rhododendron‘Black Widow’, Zones 6–9) managed these large flowers. The flowers actually appear much darker and more dramatic in less light, looking almost black.
My Sempervivum arachnoideum (Zones 5–8) did well, but we have had an incredibly wet fall and winter and I am waiting to see what happens.
Here is the sempervivum growing under the birdbath. Again, this was earlier in the season.
Even though I have many types of milkweed throughout my garden, the monarchs were absent for a couple of years. Last year I had the privilege of following the growth of a fourth generation from egg to hatching!
I actually saw the monarch lay this egg and watched daily until it became a very hungry caterpillar. Then it attached to a leaf, created a gold-crested chrysalis, and hatched out at the end of September ready to start the journey south!!
I would like to end with a simple activity I enjoy doing. Using any kind of pan, I gather items from my yard and/or slices of fruit, cranberries, whatever you like, and leave them outside to freeze. I do put a stick or straw near the top to run a string through to hang it. I have been known to give these as gifts to help recipients get through the winter.
Have a garden you’d like to share?
Have photos to share? We’d love to see your garden, a particular collection of plants you love, or a wonderful garden you had the chance to visit!
To submit, send 5-10 photos to [email protected] along with some information about the plants in the pictures and where you took the photos. We’d love to hear where you are located, how long you’ve been gardening, successes you are proud of, failures you learned from, hopes for the future, favorite plants, or funny stories from your garden.
Many of us started gardening before we ever understood the ecological impact of our choices. Little did we know how seemingly innocuous decisions like plant selections, soil amendments, or pest management can have very different outcomes, either helping or harming the environment. While one garden alone may not make a big impact, the cumulative effect of millions of us toiling away in our yards really adds up.
If you’re like me, the shift toward eco-beneficial gardening is an ongoing process. There’s always more to learn, research, debate, and decide. The ideas (below) share some principles to guide the way. It’s a work in progress but, I hope, steering things in the right direction.
Shifting to Eco-Beneficial Gardening
This is not a competition! If the goal is to benefit the environment with our gardens, we need all hands on deck. But we’re not getting there through force, shaming, or coercion. I just think back to how I opened my eyes to environmental issues—and I learn more each day—and it surely did not happen by someone reprimanding me.
A few years ago I scoured research to learn how we can get our neighbors to accept eco-friendly garden choices. Turns out, people are far more accepting if they know, like, and trust you. No surprise, really. Kindness and caring do wonders to ease the fear of change or unconventional choices.
We are, admittedly, in quite a pickle right now with climate and pollution concerns. Like all big shifts, change will come through countless approaches. Protest. Legislation. Consumer demand. Responsible brands. Innovation. Resourcefulness. Community initiatives. Bylaw changes. A shift in thinking. The list goes on. Choose what resonates and go for it!
From my little patch of earth one thing I know for sure is, gardening is much easier when you put the earth first. Harmful choices are not an option and there’s no sense sweating the small stuff.
Ecological Garden Tips
Growing a Healthy Ecosystem
Is my garden part of a healthy ecosystem?
Here are some goals:
Healthy soil, air, and water free of pollutants, herbicides, and pesticides.
Plants that provide food and habitat for local wildlife as part of greater eco-corridors.
Regenerative, sustainable, climate-smart attributes including sequestering carbon dioxide and natural water filtration and management.
Invasive species alert: always check that any plant you want to add to your garden is suited to plant hardiness zone and growing conditions, supports local wildlife, and is not considered an invasive species in your area.
Is this really a long-term problem or simply part of the eco-system? Never take action without understanding both the issue and the overall effects of any possible remedies.
What will happen if I leave it be? Most problems resolve on their own with time. Many “pests” have natural predators—give them time to do what they do best.
Will the remedy or solution cause other harm? It’s rare that a product or solution does not cause residual harm either through manufacturing, use, or disposal. Hand-picking a multitude of snails may be fine. Zapping insects that contribute to the environment? Not so much.
Are there better uses for my time or money?
Are my garden choices contributing to a healthy ecosystem?
Bringing Nature Home: How You Can Sustain Wildlife with Native Plants | Doug Tallamy
Garden Allies: The Insects, Birds, & Other Animals that Keep Your Garden Beautiful and Thriving | Frederique Lavoipierre
The Humane Gardener: Nurturing a Backyard Habitat for Wildlife (How to Create a Sustainable and Ethical Garden that Promotes Native Wildlife, Plants, and Biodiversity) | Nancy Lawson
Growing your own fresh lettuce is possible even without a big plot of land for a garden.
In fact, lettuce is arguably the best crop to choose when you’re using alternative growing methods such as container gardening, particularly for novice growers who want to experiment before moving on to crops that require more intensive caretaking.
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Those versatile, leafy heads spring up quickly, grow fast, and leave little work to be done when a container garden is properly planned – which it will be, since you’re taking the time to learn just how to do it. Good thinking!
After doing a bit of research into the many different varieties of lettuce available on the market and making a selection, it’s just a matter of choosing appropriate containers and potting soil, finding a location, and creating a schedule for caretaking that gets the job done.
We’ll cover these important points and more, up ahead. Here’s everything you’ll find as you read on:
Benefits of Growing Lettuce in Containers
Containers open up new possibilities for gardeners who want to grow their own food, even if they have some limitations that make conventional gardening difficult.
Whether those limitations are logistical, such as a lack of space or little time to dedicate to the project, or they’re related to physical needs, they can often be overcome. So many customizable alternatives exist.
For those of us who live in regions where the climate is harsh and unfriendly to delicate foliage, like mine here in Florida, having the convenience of mobility is a game changer.
When the scorching sun is sweltering overhead and lettuce would normally wither or bolt, the fragile heads can be relocated, pot and all, to a cooler, shadier spot.
When outdoor temperatures drop too low for comfort, bringing the garden indoors where it can safely soak up the sun in front of a kitchen window is another bonus.
We can’t control the weather, but we can find ways to circumvent it.
If you’re really short on space but you really enjoy fresh vegetables, some vessels can be stacked on a frame, or you might opt for a grow tower instead.
These vertical options can increase planting space exponentially and can often be reused many times. We’ll discuss those a bit more up ahead.
Pest problems, which are very common with leafy greens, can also be alleviated by hanging, relocating, or covering a container garden.
Limiting access for uninvited critters is the best prevention for the damage they can cause.
Poor soil or low rainfall may be a hindrance to producing healthy plants, but small, manageable containers full of rich soil solve these issues as well.
Just bear in mind that the smaller volume of soil may require more frequent watering if vessels that aren’t receiving regular rainfall.
All of these perks and more amount to an easier, more flexible experience than that of in-ground growing. But it’s important to choose the right container or some of those perks can become liabilities.
So, what do we look for in a planting vessel? Let’s go over that next.
Choosing a Container
All types of cultivated lettuce have a relatively small, shallow root system.
Because these plants have a short lifespan and don’t grow very large, they don’t need to reach too far or deeply for water and nutrients.
This is beneficial since you won’t need huge planters to accommodate massive roots and other underground structures like you would if you were growing potatoes, for example.
Six to eight inches of depth and about the same width is all the space needed to produce one or two lettuce plants, depending on the variety and its mature size.
A wide-mouth container is better to allow more room for spread, especially if several plants will be grouped together or if the mature size is on the larger side.
Unglazed ceramic vessels perform better because the porous material allows air to transpire, aerating the soil within, reducing the likelihood of overwatering, and sometimes, limiting the spread of pathogens that can damage the roots.
If you know that you’re a bit heavy-handed with watering, then unglazed ceramic is definitely your best bet.
Measuring five inches tall and 12 inches in diameter, it has a wide profile which is perfect for leaf varieties or for growing one to two smaller heads.
Plastic, resin, or other materials can also be used, but may require a bit more attention so they don’t hold water that can cause mold or mildew to grow, or harbor pathogens that lead to root rot.
Be sure to avoid overwatering and check to make sure they have adequate drainage.
Editorial credit: M G White / Shutterstock.com
Plastic pots may also deteriorate in prolonged sun exposure, leading to brittleness and cracking.
Saving money on a less expensive pot is nice but having to replace ruined crops cancels out the savings!
No matter which type of planter you choose, make sure that it has drainage holes so excess water can run off.
Cultivars to Choose
There are so many types of lettuce to grow at home that this list is just the tip of the iceberg – pun intended.
Perhaps a better way to approach making a choice here is to start with what you want from yours.
Are you a fan of butterhead types, with their thinner, softer leaves?
Or would you rather have crisp, crunchy leaves like romaine or iceberg to combine with other veggies and your favorite condiments to make salads?
What about loose leaf types that can be harvested throughout the season?
Deciding what you’re most eager to eat first may help to narrow down the best possible types for you.
Once you have an idea of the type you’d prefer to plant, here are a few popular varieties that grow well in containers for you to consider.
Buttercrunch
Butterhead, aka Bibb, lettuce is velvety soft, with thin leaves that are pliable and fold well into wraps and sandwiches.
These types can be harvested as a head or as individual, cut-and-come-again outer leaves over the course of a season.
‘Buttercrunch’ is an heirloom cultivar that was bred in the 1960s by George J. Raleigh at Cornell University.
Its large leaves create beautiful emerald-green whorls of foliage, five to seven inches wide and three to five inches in height.
This cultivar makes an excellent choice for container growing thanks to its easy to maintain “cut-and-come-again” leaves, and a relatively compact size. In fact, it’s one of the most common types chosen for hydroponics and towers.
Since ‘Buttercrunch’ is more heat tolerant than some varieties, it’s less likely to bolt in temperatures up to about 80°F. Maybe that’s one of the many reasons that it’s an All-America Selections Winner.
The name may be a mouthful, but that hasn’t stopped ‘Forellenschluss’ lettuce from becoming a popular heirloom variety over the last century.
This German type has a sweet, grassy flavor and produces large, eight- to 12-inch heads of speckled, red and green leaves. In fact, the name translates to “like a trout’s back” in English, denoting the speckles.
‘Forellenschluss’ adds color and texture to a container and pairs well with leaf types to make a blend that can be harvested together as mesclun for a more complex flavor profile.
Its leaves are crisp, sometimes compared to romaine in texture.
What makes this type great for containers is its baby leaf potential. It can be harvested early, prior to full maturity, as small, tender, crisp leaves with a mild but bright flavor, which can save some space throughout the season.
Space seeds 10 to 12 inches apart and give this variety, which is sometimes called ‘Freckles’ in English, 70 to 80 days to reach maturity in a container that receives full to partial sunlight with temperatures in the 40 to 75°F range.
If you’re a fan of crisphead varieties, also known as iceberg, then you may want to pick ‘Webb’s Wonderful’ to grow in your home container garden.
This English heirloom was bred by Clarence Webb in the late 1800s.
This variety forms large, tight, crisp heads, sometimes over 11 inches in diameter, that tolerate heat very well.
While primarily considered a heat-tolerant, slow-to-bolt type, powering through high temperatures over 80ﹾF without wilting, it also withstands lows in the upper 30s.
‘Webb’s Wonderful’ is a good choice for potting because it produces larger heads than some iceberg types, meaning you’ll get a lot of lettuce out of just one or two plants.
Allow 70 to 75 days to maturity before harvesting the pale green heads, which have a mild, slightly sweet flavor and juicy crunch.
Packages of ‘Webb’s Wonderful’ seed are available in one-ounce to one-pound sizes from True Leaf Market.
Suddenly, I’m craving salad – maybe I’ll whip one up for lunch! But first, let’s go over the ins and outs of sowing seed and caring for your plants.
Propagation
Preparing a potted garden requires a bit of consideration, just like a conventional, in-ground garden would.
I’ll cover some helpful tips specific to container growing below, but we also cover full details on the planting process in our complete guide to growing your own lettuce.
Timing
Late winter or early spring are the best times to start seeds if the seedlings will later be transplanted into outdoor containers.
But it’s much easier to sow directly in the permanent vessel if you can. And plants that will remain inside year-round can be started at any time.
It can take two to three months for most varieties to reach maturity, and sowing seed should be timed to avoid the heat of the summer.
Bolting makes the leaves less palatable, with a bitter flavor and more fibrous texture. However, the plants are not necessarily entirely wasted, even though you may not want to eat them.
Seeds produced after pollination can number in the hundreds, saving gardeners money by eliminating the need to buy more. Those blooms also feed the bees and other pollinators.
Many types of lettuce can be grown even in cold temperatures, frost, and snow, with some added protection, but be sure to plan for that if you’re going to attempt it.
Just keep in mind that container growing reduces resistance to cold and freezing because plants’ roots lack the insulation that would otherwise be provided by soil in the ground.
Choose a location indoors that will provide temperatures between 60 and 70°F to start your seeds.
Rather than having to harden them off, or gradually move them outdoors once they’ve sprouted, you may be able to start them directly outdoors in their permanent location to save some trouble.
Keep in mind that some regions that experience high heat in the summer may not be suitable for starting outdoors.
In zones where temperatures don’t achieve about 65°F until late spring, starting indoors is best.
If temperature fluctuations are a concern when starting indoors, consistent warmth can be provided from below instead with a heat mat.
I like this set from Vivosun that comes with a mat, a thermostat, and a storage case. It’s available from Amazon.
The ideal seed starting location, whether indoors or out, should receive six to eight hours of sunlight per day, although harsh, direct light coupled with heat should be avoided.
Indoors, your potted lettuce should be placed near a sunny window or provided with a grow light.
I have this one, which I bought from Amazon. It’s great because it clips to a tabletop and can be positioned to shed light over a wide area.
Soil
Loamy, friable soil is best.
If the potting soil you plan to use feels dense and spongy, and forms a ball when it’s moistened and squeezed in the hand, mix one-part coarse sand into two parts soil to improve aeration and drainage.
Shredded bark or leaves can also be used to add additional organic material that will decompose.
Top dressing with compost after the first true leaves sprout provides a boost of available nutrients to give your lettuce a strong start. Just don’t pile compost against the tender stems.
Soil in containers should be replaced after one to two growing seasons, or any time diseases or pests have been a problem.
Be sure to disinfect your container before you sow new seed if plants have suffered issues.
Water
Consistent watering is important, but keep a watchful eye out for telltale signs of damping off.
Delicate lettuce sprouts are very prone to this illness which can present as wilted, weak, or fallen stems, and often comes with fungus gnats buzzing about.
These shallow-rooted plants don’t handle drought well, so check in every three to five days, or daily during the warmer months if you’re starting seeds for a fall crop.
If the soil feels dry just below the surface, water well and allow excess to drain.
Sowing Seeds
Lettuce seeds are tiny and should be handled with care.
They can also carry disease both inside and outside the seed coat, so soaking the seeds in a warm water and bleach solution can be done prior to planting, if desired.
Use the mature size of your chosen variety as a guide for spacing.
Most loose leaf types will need to be spaced six to eight inches apart, but heads may need as much as 12 inches of space between each, or they may require planting individually in containers.
Fill your container or a seed-starting tray to the brim with soil and compact it gently. Water it thoroughly and allow any excess to drain off.
A cell tray with a lid such as this type, available in a pack of five from Walmart, is a good choice to begin if you will be transplanting your seedlings into their permanent pots at a later date.
Press the seeds only about a quarter-inch deep and lightly cover them with soil.
If you’re starting in the winter or early spring, it’s wise to use the cover, which will help them sprout faster. Be sure to vent humidity on warm days.
If possible, sow seeds directly in the vessel in which they’ll remain until harvest. If not, wait to transplant them until they have two to four true leaves.
Transplanting
After seedlings have grown two to three sets of true leaves, they can be transplanted if you’ve started them indoors or in flats.
Hardening off is necessary before moving tender seedlings outdoors.
Start by moving them outside into the shade for an hour or two, and gradually increase the time spent outdoors and their exposure to sunlight each day over the course of about a week.
Once they’re acclimated to the outdoors, make a hole in the soil in your container the same size as the root section or plug. Turn the seedling carefully out of its cell or pot, place it in the hole, and backfill around it with soil.
Don’t mound soil around the stem. Press gently with your hands to seat it in place and water it in well.
Place the container in a suitable location and keep an eye out for any signs of wilting – visible cues such as this tip you off that more time in the shade is needed.
Let’s talk about caretaking beyond the seedling stage next!
Caretaking Tips
Once the seedlings are in their permanent home, keep an eye out for signs of pest damage or disease. This may appear as discoloration, stunting, moldy or rotten spots, or die-off.
Any damaged, dead, or dying material should be cut away with a clean, sharp garden knife or pruners and discarded in the trash to avoid disease spread.
Parts that are dragging against the soil should be removed too, although they can simply be eaten if they appear healthy.
On days when the sun is scorching overhead or temperatures rise or fall into unsafe ranges, move the planter to a location where protection is available if possible.
A shady porch or warmer garage can be a lifesaver.
Feeding
Short-season crops don’t generally require fertilizing other than an occasional top dressing of compost, as I mentioned.
But if you plan to grow more lettuce in succession, it’s best to add more nutrients to replenish the soil.
This could be a synthetic commercial product, compost, or other types of natural fertilizers, added to the soil before sowing more seeds or transplanting new starts.
After harvesting, healthy soil that has not been contaminated or infested with pathogens or pests can be replanted for up to about two years, as noted above.
Or, you may wish to plant different crops in your container with the changing seasons.
Leafy Lettuce Lends Itself Well to a Potted Paradise
There’s nothing like a fresh salad made with lettuce that you grew yourself, is there?
It just tastes better, and there’s no doubt about where it came from or what it was exposed to while it grew.
If you have limitations, then that seemingly unattainable garden you’ve been dreaming of might not be so impossible to acquire after all, with the use of containers.
Even budget constraints can be overcome with a bit of creative upcycling – and you can find more ideas in our guide to the best containers to choose for lettuce. (coming soon!)
What type of lettuce will you be planting this time around? We’d love to hear all about it, and if you have questions we’re here for you as well. Let us know in the comments below!
And for more lettuce-growing know-how, take a look at these guides next:
Browsing through a gardening catalog is a joyous experience but also one that can be pretty intimidating. Not everyone has acres and acres of property to grow flowers, so we want to get maximum bloom for the buck.
You’re probably familiar with daffodils, hyacinths, tulips, and the like – the common hardy spring-planted bulbs that come back year after year in most regions. And these should definitely be planted for reliable spring and summer blooms year after year. But you might also want to consider spicing things up a little with flowers that are native to regions other than yours that produce flowers that are simply breathtaking.
Most of the flowers on this list are considered tender perennials outside of USDA hardiness zones 8-10. That means in zones 1-7, they may not survive winter and will have to be lifted and stored in a garage or an area that doesn’t drop much below 40 degrees in winter. I grow most of these regularly.
Dahlias
I simply love growing Dahlias for their majestic blooms. From 2-inch lollypop pompoms to massive 15-inch dinner plate styles, dahlias are found in a rainbow of colors and color combinations. There truly is a dahlia for every gardener. This beautiful flower typically starts flowering in mid-summer, and you can count on them lasting right up until your first frost. They range from 15 inches to 6 feet tall and prefer all-day direct sunlight, so choose a variety that’s appropriate for your space. Tall varieties are a little finicky about wind, so give these varieties a little shelter.
Gladiolas
Gladiola
Also known as sword lilies, gladiolas are fantastic for filling in any garden space that receives direct sunlight. They can even tolerate a little shade – but just a little. Gladiolas range from 2-4 feet tall, so they usually stand head and shoulders above your other flowers. You can find gladiolas in white, yellow, pink, lavender, rose, burgundy, purple, and even green. And Gladiolas are a very robust flower – the bulbs will last for years and years with proper care. Like dahlias, they’re native to zones 8-10, so they should be lifted every fall. But to tell the truth, I garden in Zone 6 and never lift them, and most bounce back every spring (winters are consistently warmer every year).
LILIES
Lily
The number of lilies you can purchase can barely be quantified – there are hundreds of varieties, each more interesting than the next. Most varieties are in the 2-3 foot range but can grow as tall as 8 feet. Most lilies are hardy in zones 4-9, so they can be grown in most areas of the U.S. Naturally, there are some exceptions that are only hardy in warmer zones. Lilies are available in a rainbow of colors and color combinations, some with a gorgeous scent.
Elephant Ear (Colocasia and Alocasia)
Elephant Ear
We’re including Elephant Ears for their dramatic heart-shaped foliage. Technically, they do flower, depending on conditions, but many gardeners will never see the flower, especially in cooler regions.
Elephant Ears is a tropical plant that’s equally at home in sun or shade. In the U.S., they can be grown perennially in zones 9-11 but will not survive winter in cooler zones. If you don’t want to lift them each fall, Elephant Ears is a fantastic potted plant that will thrive on your porch or patio. When temperatures begin to drop in the fall, take the pot indoors for the winter and place it back outside once temperatures warm up. There are many varieties to choose from, including the well-known green heart-shaped leaves to black or purple leaves.
Raised garden beds increase your gardening space and protect plants from pests and weeds. While they’re a great way to garden, they require lots of soil which can be heavy on the wallet. Avoid spending all your gardening budget on soil by finding out what to put on a bottom of a raised garden bed with these ideas!
In this post you will learn:
What to Put on the Bottom of a Raised Garden Bed
Not only can lining the bottom of your garden bed with one of these items help reduce the amount of soil you need to purchase, but it can also be quite beneficial for the plants, too.
Here are the six things to put on the bottom of a raised garden bed, plus why each can be helpful.
1. Wood
Large pieces of rotting wood and branches are great because they hold moisture and encourage beneficial fungi. They act like a sponge for the raised garden bed! You then fill the space around the wood with organic matter and carbon materials to create a slow compost pile.
You can also use wood chips, though these will decompose a little faster. Look for wood chips from arborists or local sources since they’re inexpensive and readily available.
2. Turf Grass
I’ve used turf grass in my raised beds, which works great. If you create a new raised bed and take a layer of grass out for it, hold onto it! It can quickly fill the bottom of the new bed and provide soil and nutrients.
3. Leaves and Dirt
If you have a pile of leaves and dirt going unused in your garden, why not pile it into your raised bed? This works great for filling outdoor containers as it has plenty of nutrients from your existing garden.
4. Hugelkultur
You can also make a mini hugelkultur. This is when you pile the bottom with materials that take a long time to decompose, like rotting wood, branches, sticks, fruit pits, and more. Then, you layer it with carbon and nitrogen sources.
Through hugelkulturs, you create a self-feeding, long-term garden bed that’s excellent at holding water and heat. This is great for early crops and longer seasons.
Use empty plastic milk jugs to take up lots of room at the bottom of a container. Ensure the lid is still on, so the insides don’t fill up with soil. This is an excellent solution if you want something that will last a long time and not disintegrate.
6. Plant Pots
Likewise, you can use empty plant pots and tip them upside down to fill a large area of space at the bottom of a raised bed.
Topping off Your Raised Garden Bed
Once you have figured out what to put at the bottom of your raised garden bed, you will want to layer it.
No matter what I line the bottom with, I like to put a layer of organic material that I have on hand to help build a deeper soil bed.
This can include moistened paper or cardboard (remove any glossy pages, plastic, staples, and tape), leaf mould, straw, manure, and more. Of course, compost is also always a must!
Frequently Asked Questions About Making Raised Garden Beds
Should you line the bottom of a raised garden bed?
Yes! All raised garden beds should have drainage holes to ensure no water sits at the bottom of the raised bed. Otherwise, you can get root rot and deprive the roots of oxygen. Lining the garden bed allows the water to filter through the drainage holes but keeps all the soil inside the container.
Should I put gravel on the bottom of a raised garden bed?
While many believe this can improve drainage, it’s not a good idea to put gravel or rocks at the bottom of your raised garden bed. This can create a pool at the bottom of your raised bed and increase saturation. The gravel can also mix in with the soil and become difficult to separate down the road.
What is the best thing to line a raised garden bed with?
Landscape fabric works well to help filter the soil, though it must be thin. You can also use newspaper or fabric, though once again, it needs to be light enough to let the water still drain through.
So, there you have it. Let me know in the comments what you’ll be lining your raised garden beds with this year.
Gardening is a great way to relax and enjoy the outdoors, and it became even more popular during the pandemic. Not only is gardening a good hobby to keep you fit and active, but it can also improve your English skills through reading gardening books.
Whether you’re a novice or an experienced gardener, plenty of books can help you learn more about plants and gardening techniques.
In this article, we will list the benefits of reading gardening books for English language improvement. We will also discuss how to integrate gardening books into your learning routine, and the benefits of gardening for language learners.
The benefits of reading gardening books for english language improvement
Reading gardening books is a great way to improve your English language skills. Here are some of the benefits.
Exposure to new vocabulary. Gardening books are full of new vocabulary related to gardening and horticulture, which helps you to improve your English reading skills and also learn new words. Reading these books can help you learn new vocabulary and phrases related to the topic, which can be very useful in everyday conversations.
Better comprehension. Books on gardening are usually written clearly and concisely, making them easier to understand. Reading gardening books can help you improve your comprehension of English.
Improved grammar. Professional authors and editors write this type of book, so you can be sure the grammar is correct.
Improved writing skills. Gardening books are written in various styles and formats, which can help you improve your writing skills.
Overview of the best gardening books for English learners
Gardening books can be divided into different categories based on their difficulty level.
Beginner gardening books are suitable for English learners who are just starting. They usually contain simple vocabulary and grammar and focus on basic gardening techniques.
Intermediate gardening books suit English learners with a primary language understanding. They usually contain more complex vocabulary and grammar.
Advanced gardening books best fit English learners who strongly understand language and gardening. They typically contain complex vocabulary and phrases and discuss more advanced gardening techniques.
Here is a brief overview of the best gardening books for English learners of all levels.
Popular gardening books for beginners
“RHS How to Garden When You’re New to Gardening”: ideal for English learners just starting out. It provides clear and concise instructions on how to get started in gardening, with helpful tips and tricks.
“Gardening for the Complete Beginner” by LD Greens: perfect for English learners who want to learn more about gardening. It covers a wide range of topics, from planting to harvesting, and provides helpful tips on how to make your garden thrive.
“Vegetable Gardening for Beginners” by Jill McSheehy: great for English learners who want to learn more about vegetable gardening but don’t have much time. It provides easy-to-follow instructions, as well as practical tips and advice.
“RHS Step-by-Step Veg Patch” by Lucy Chamberlain: for English learners who are keen on growing vegetables. It provides clear and concise instructions on how to get started in vegetable gardening.
“Jekka’s Complete Herb Book” by Jekka McVicar: well-suited to English learners interested in growing herbs. It covers the basics of herb growing and harvesting, and provides tips on how to make your herb garden thrive.
“How to Create Your Garden” by Adam Frost: perfect for English learners who want to design a garden that suits their needs. Includes a guide to garden design and step-by-step photography.
Advanced gardening books for English learners
“The Complete Gardener” by Monty Don: a good option for English learners who are keen to find out more about every aspect of gardening. It covers plants, garden design, and the basics of organic gardening.
“RHS Gardening Through the Year” by Ian Spence: for English learners who want to learn more about year-round gardening. It includes a month-by-month guide to what to sow, grow and harvest, plus an illustrated plant directory.
“Grow Your Own Garden” by Carol Klein: a handy resource for English learners on plant propagation. There are clear and concise instructions on how to propagate plants, plus lots of useful advice and tips.
How to integrate gardening books into your English learning routine
Reading gardening books is a great way to improve your English language skills, but how can you integrate them into your English learning routine? Here are some tips on how to make the most of your gardening books.
Read a few pages each day. Instead of reading the entire book in one sitting, try to read a few pages each day. This will help you absorb the information better and ensure you aren’t overwhelmed.
Take notes. Taking notes while reading gardening books is a great way to ensure that you remember important information and words.
Ask questions. If you don’t understand something, don’t hesitate to ask questions. You can ask your teacher or a native English speaker for help.
Join a gardening club. This is a great way to meet other people who share your interest in gardening. You can discuss the books you’re reading and exchange ideas and tips.
Benefits of gardening for language learners
Gardening is not only a great way to improve your English language skills, but it can also provide many other benefits for language learners. Here are some of them.
Improved memory. Gardening requires you to remember instructions and facts, which can help to improve your memory.
Improved problem-solving skills. Gardening allows you to think critically and develop creative solutions to problems, which can help you improve your problem-solving skills.
Stress relief. Gardening can be a great way to relieve stress. Working in the garden and being in nature can help you to feel calmer and manage your mood in general.
Improved focus. Gardening requires you to focus on the task at hand, which can help to improve your concentration skills.
Gardening books are a great way to improve your English language skills, and gardening itself provides many other benefits for language learners. Taking part in a gardening club is also an excellent opportunity to meet other English speakers and practice your language in the real world. If you’re looking for a fun and rewarding way to improve your English, gardening might be the perfect fit.
After I posted my crazy landrace seed-mixing starting transplants video, I got a few comments from people telling me I was “doing it wrong!”
Here’s the video:
One commenter writes:
“Think you boobooed on mixing the seeds. It’s more than what grows best, it is also different flavors. You’ve made it harder on the cook. I would have mixed some and left some to open-pollinate. Wouldn’t mix dent corn and sweet corn, or a sauerkraut cabbage with bokchoy…”
Yes, that is correct. It’s not good to mix that far, unless you’re really ready to do the hard work to un-thread the needle later on. It can be interesting to do wide crosses for breeding purposes, but I’m NOT mixing sweet corn with grain corn, or broccoli with cabbages, or anything like that. I’m sticking to “type,” but mixing a bunch of cultivars together.
So: winter squashes of good flavor and color are all getting mixed together, then we’ll sort by vigor and other interests. I’m not mixing winter squashes with summer squashes. (Well, not much. I do think I have a few C. pepo winter squashes that got mixed into the summer squash jar.)
We’re breeding for vigor and survivability first, then going from there. The video could have been a lot longer – I had a lot I cut out, because I was getting bored listening to myself. For example, I stuck a bunch of sweet cantaloupe and related melon seeds together into one jar, but I threw out the Queen Anne Pocket Melon seeds because they are a bland novelty variety I did not want to disrupt my sweet melon line.
There is a method to the madness. Though it is tempting to throw all caution to the wind and plant everything together, I am more interested in getting solid, highly diverse genetic types that are well suited to Lower Alabama. I would really like a “David The Good” cucumber line that’s super vigorous, as well as my own okra, watermelons, C. moschata squash, etc., all tailored to our style of gardening, our soil, and this unique climate.
Want your seeds to sprout faster? Have a look at the creative ways home gardeners make use of household items like heating pads and Instant Pots to help speed up sprouting and increase germination rates.
While you can’t fool nature into moving any faster than it naturally capable of, providing the right conditions gives seeds their best chance.
Seeds will sprout the fastest when you start with fresh, viable seeds and provide the optimum conditions for each specific species or variety. Yes, it varies.
Each seed type has a range of preferred temperatures that, along with moisture, encourage germination.
Within that range there is a minimum temperature, a sweet spot, and a maximum temperature.
Too cold or too hot and the seed either cannot sprout (cold) or may sprout and die (hot) or just take a very long time.
For best results, we provide soil temperatures within that sweet spot.
How can I measure soil temperature at home?
Digital kitchen thermometer with probe
You can measure the temperature of your soil or potting mix using a basic digital kitchen thermometer. It’s ideal to choose a thermometer with a long probe so you can check the temperature at various depths.
For outdoor seed starting, it’s helpful to measure the soil temperature at sowing depth and repeat this several times a day over a period of several days. Assuming it’s the right time of year, when the temperature is consistently within the desired range, it’s sowing time.
In general, our traditional spring and autumn crops including peas and salad greens, that grow nicely in cold or cool conditions, are the same crops that like moderate soil temperatures for seed sowing.
Very generally—with exceptions, this group germinates best with soil in the 50-68° F (10-20° C) temperature range.
2Warm Crops
The tender, warmth-loving crops like tomatoes, eggplant, and peppers prefer warmer soil to sprout.
Again, very generally—with exceptions, they will do fine if the soil temperature is 68-79° F | 20 -26° C.
Some in this group, like peppers and squashes, can be particularly responsive to somewhat warmer temperatures.
Seed Sowing Temperature Charts
Tips for Warming Soil to Speed Up Seed Germination
Seeds need both moisture and warmth to germinate—but not too much.
Warm up the soil before sowing your seeds.
Outdoor Seed Sowing
Start at the right time of year with a location suited to the plant’s light, soil, and drainage needs.
From there, soil temperatures can be warmed by adding a few inches of compost to your garden bed to keep heat in, using natural or plastic mulch to warm the soil for days or weeks prior to sowing, or positioning cold frames in a sunny location. Let the sun work for you.
Indoor Seed Sowing
Gardeners come up with all sorts of tricks for speeding up seed germination. Because most seed types do not require direct light until the seeds have sprouted, you can place the seed tray in your house where heat is available to warm the soil from below until the seeds sprout. I’ve listed some ideas below.
Keep in mind that high temperatures will kill seeds or dry out seedlings, so stay in the desired temperature range and keep on top of watering. More is not more.
If you want a product made just for this purpose, consider getting a proper seed starting heat mat with a thermostat. This explains when a heat mat can help if you don’ t have other options (see below). The usefulness will depend on your indoor conditions.
Check the size of the mat you are buying as well as product reviews and refund policy. You may need a few to accommodate all of your seedling trays and they are a bit pricey.
Household Hacks For Warming Seed Trays
These ideas are “hacks,” meaning they are unconventional solutions. They are simply ideas, not advice, and anything you try is entirely at your own risk. If something seems unsafe, don’t do it.
The idea is to make use of residual heat produced in your home.
SAFETY FIRST: USE THESE IDEAS AT YOUR OWN RISK
Use what you have:
Top of toaster oven (after use, with cooling rack on top: no direct contact with seedling tray)
Top of cooking range (again, after use, no direct contact)
On a waterbed heater
On a heating pad
On string lights or fairy lights that radiate some heat-place them in a roasting pan with seed trays over top
Over pots of hot water (cooling after cooking)
In a chick incubator
On top of the fridge (this is only true for older appliances that radiate heat up top)
Over a steam radiator
Above a heat register (beware of dry air-must be humid)
A food dehydrator is not recommended because, by design, it’s likely to dry out the seeds which will defeat the purpose. Seeds need to retain their inner moisture to remain viable.
No matter what you choose, the idea is to gently warm the soil from below, not above, and to do it in a safe manner.
In many of these examples, you are making use of leftover heat when the appliance is OFF (after use). Some place a baking sheet with a dish towel on top above the warm surface and place the seed starting tray on top.
Even with just a couple of hours of slow heat, some seeds respond quickly (within a day or two) to added warmth.
While I wouldn’t buy one for this purpose, I have to say it has been an excellent addition to our kitchen—I use it nearly every day for food, and now and again for seed starting. It’s particularly good for stubborn pepper seeds.
How It Works
Running on the lowest setting, the Instant Pot gently warms moistened seeds to encourage germination.
Choose seeds that both prefer warmer soil temperatures to germinate and sprout within a few days, otherwise the use of electricity probably outweighs the benefits.
Recommended seeds to try: peppers, zinnia, squash, rosemary, and eggplant.
Make sure you have supplies ready to transplant the newly sprouted seeds. Some are ready in just a day or so.
Steps
Fill Instant Pot inner pot with 1 to 2 cups water and add a metal trivet (2 to 3 inches tall).
Place seeds between layers of moist (but not dripping wet) paper towel or fabric scraps and place in food containers, Ziplock bags, or sheets of foil. Lids are optional.
Label each type of seed.
Place containers (food bags, or foil) on trivet. It’s fine to experiment with stacking them and/or using lids.
Turn on Instant Pot to lowest temperature setting (91°F / 32°C on many machines). Note the start time. Some machines will automatically shut off after a set time and need restarting. Put a reminder in your phone if needed.
Check daily for sprouted seeds and to monitor temperature. Add or remove lids to adjust temperature as needed.
Remove and transplant any germinated seeds into potting mix. Note how long germination takes for each seed type for future reference.
Notes
The number one tip is to never let the seeds dry out or the water in the pot run dry. You also don’t want to create mold so some air flow is recommended.
I find the best temperature range (measured on the moist paper towel) is 80° to 90°F (26° to 32°C).
Whether you need lids on the seed containers and/or the Instant Pot will depend on your temperature readings. Add or remove lids as needed to maintain the recommended range.
Look up the “days to germination” for each of the seeds you are starting to know when to expect sprouting. If your seeds are fresh and viable, they may germinate a bit sooner than expected.
Resources
Other Germination Tricks
Always read your seed packets and follow the specific sowing instructions. If the seed company knows a good trick, it’s usually listed right there.
Some seeds require scarification (scratching of the seed coat to allow the embryo to emerge) or stratification (varying the temperature), such as pre-chilling seeds in the fridge, or introduction to warmer soil, as we have discussed here. Again, these tips will be listed on your seed packet if applicable.
The first time I encountered and tasted a cape gooseberry was at the Sonoma garden of Peter and Louise Hassen (a multidisciplinary artist and the founder of Sonoma Apothecary, respectively). Thinking at first that Lousie was handing me a tomatillo, I almost politely said “No, thank you.” Luckily I didn’t. I peeled away the brown husk, bit into the orange orb, and was pleasantly surprised. Immediately I wondered where this edible plant has been my whole life.
Please keep reading to learn more about this underused edible.
Native to Brazil, Cape gooseberry is also called ground cherry and goldenberry, among other names. Its common name is actually derived from South Africa’s Cape of Good Hope, where the fruit was very popular after emerging there in the early 19th century. This explains why my friend Louise has it in her garden. “I grow it because it reminds me of my childhood in South Africa. They were very common there and the fruit was made into a yummy jam,” she tells me.
This small 1- to 3-foot tall shrub is notable for its small orange fruit that is roughly the same size as a grape or a cherry tomato. Like its cousins the tomatillo and Chinese lantern, the fruit is delicately wrapped in a thin protective papery husk. Peel this away and you find a tropical tasting orange surprise. I found the flavor both sweet and tart at the same time, like if you put a pineapple and a tomato in a blender. “I eat them when I’m gardening as a snack, and I like to put them on a dessert plate as an edible decoration,” shares Louise.
Above: A papery husk surrounds the fruit.
Considered an annual where frost occurs and a perennial elsewhere, this fast-growing shrub is self-fruitful, but you can help the pollination part by lightly taping the stems behind the flowers. “Cape gooseberries reseed easily, but they take a long time to mature and fruit. I usually don’t have much time before the first frost comes along,” says Louise. She adds that this year she is going to try and find a large nursery-grown start so that she can enjoy the fruits of her labor longer.
Very adaptable to being grown in a large pot or container.
Add to your vegetable garden or grow on a patio with other edibles.
Can be enjoyed raw, in desserts or salads, or in jams, jellies or chutneys. Also, you can try them dried.
Be aware, underripe gooseberries may be toxic. You will know the fruit is ripe when the stem holding the tan husk is brown.
If kept in their husk, cape gooseberries can be stored for several weeks.
Bees are frequent visitors.
Keep It Alive
Above: Not quite ripe yet.
Plant in full sun and in a warm but not blazing hot spot.
Protect from frost, or if you live below USDA 10, consider this plant like an annual.
A wee bit thirsty leading up to fruit ripening time.
Tolerates most types of soil and requires little to no fertilizer.
Can be vulnerable to the same pests and afflictions as tomatoes. Pro Tip: Rotate your crops yearly to prevent build-up of diseases that attack nightshade plants.
Self-pollinating and easy to propagate from seed.
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As cell-phone cameras have gotten better, I have been using mine to capture close-up images of the flowers in my garden in Westchester, New York (Zone 6b). My goal has been to focus on details like petals, stamens, and pistils rather than flower portraits. The folds, shading, and edges of a petal become a study in motion. A tiny floret becomes a flower. A petal becomes a contour map with color markings. None of these photos have been manipulated or filtered, other than being cropped. The last photo is of an indoor plant as a nod to the winter currently being endured until we can get back into the garden.
Angelonia (Angelonia angustifolia, Zones 8–11 or as an annual)
Castor bean (Ricinus communis, Zones 9–11 or as an annual)
African violet (Saintpaulia lonantha, Zones 10–11 or as a houseplant)
Have a garden you’d like to share?
Have photos to share? We’d love to see your garden, a particular collection of plants you love, or a wonderful garden you had the chance to visit!
To submit, send 5-10 photos to [email protected] along with some information about the plants in the pictures and where you took the photos. We’d love to hear where you are located, how long you’ve been gardening, successes you are proud of, failures you learned from, hopes for the future, favorite plants, or funny stories from your garden.
The fast-growing ornamental sweet potato vine is easy to care for and a popular choice as a pot filler and ground cover.
It’s a vigorous grower with interesting colors and leaf shapes. These versatile plants are equally at home in hanging baskets or a garden bed.
With the correct care, even a beginner can learn to grow it easily.
Use our sweet potato vine care guide to find out about the light, water, soil, and fertilizer requirements of this beginner-friendly plant. And get info on common pests and fixing problems, too.
The ornamental sweet potato plant (Ipomoea batatas) is a tropical, fast-growing perennial vine native to Central and South America.
Many people plant sweet potato vine for its abundant, colorful foliage, often as ground cover or filler for containers. You can let the vines mound or trail, or you can train them to climb.
They grow up to 6’ or more in the right environment. Colors vary widely, including chartreuse, yellow, burgundy, green, bronze, dark purple, and black. You can even get a variegated or tricolor sweet potato vine.
While it is related to the sweet potatoes we grow in our vegetable gardens, the two differ in an important way.
The tubers on the ornamental species are edible, but they don’t taste good, and are not great to eat. So yes, grow sweet potato vine for its beauty, but definitely not for its flavor.
Sweet Potato Vine Varieties
There are several types of sweet potato vine plants, and each boasts a different color and leaf shape.
Thankfully, they can all be cared for in the same way. Here are a few of the most popular types.
Ipomoea batatas ‘Blackie’ – This vigorous, fast-growing option has very dark maple leaf-shaped foliage and purple trumpet-like flowers.
Ipomoea batatas ‘Sweet Caroline’ – The Sweet Caroline variety comes in many colors, including bronze, yellow, and red, and is very popular as ground cover.
Ipomoea batatas ‘Margarita’ – This lime-green colored type with heart-shaped foliage grows in a mound before trailing or climbing.
Ipomoea batatas ‘Ragtime’ – The thin leaves on this variety range from purple to pale-green and thrive in summer heat.
Two types of sweet potato vines growing in my garden
Flowers
Some, but not all varieties of sweet potato vines produce flowers in the right environment.
The trumpet-shaped blooms of ornamental sweet potatoes appear in the late summer or early fall and are often a shade of pink or purple.
Toxicity
According to the ASPCA website, Ipomoea batatas is not toxic, and safe to have around your cats, dogs, and other animals.
As I mentioned above, the tubers are technically edible but don’t taste good, so grow this plant purely for its ornamental beauty.
Bronze sweet potato vine plant variety
How To Grow Sweet Potato Vine
Before we chat about how to care for sweet potato vine plants, let’s talk about where to grow them.
A good location can make care easy and stress-free, whether you’re putting them in hanging baskets or letting them trail across a flowerbed.
Hardiness
Sweet potato vines are not cold hardy and will die if exposed to temperatures below 45°F (7°C) for extended periods.
These ornamental vines are perennials in zones 9-11, though they will lose their foliage when it drops below about 55°F (13°C). In cooler climates, they’re grown as annuals or overwintered indoors.
Where To Grow Sweet Potato Vines
Sweet potato vine plants are tolerant of a variety of conditions, and will grow quickly in full sun to partial shade.
They can trail or you can train them to climb, and they make excellent ground cover that requires little attention to flourish.
The draping quality of sweet potato vines also makes them popular as filler for containers or for hanging baskets.
They need moist soil, good drainage, warmth, bright light, and humidity to thrive.
Potted sweet potato vine growing outdoors
Sweet Potato Vine Care & Growing Instructions
Now that you know the perfect place to grow Ipomoea batatas, it’s time to talk about how to care for them. Use these tips to keep your sweet potato vines thriving and vibrant.
Light
Sweet potato vines need 6 or more hours of light per day. They prefer the morning sun over the harsher afternoon rays, but some varieties, such as the ‘Marguerite’ and ‘Ragtime’ cultivars, can thrive in full sun.
The foliage colors will be less intense in dimmer light. If you’re growing it indoors, you may need a plant light to supplement the natural sun and boost color intensity.
Water
Sweet potato vine plants are drought tolerant, but prefer consistently moist soil. They don’t like wet feet, though, and overwatering will lead to root and tuber rot.
Water when the top 1” of soil feels dry, but never to the point of making it soggy. Always drain all the excess water from containerized plants.
Sweet potato vines don’t like to dry out, and prefer humid environments. Keep the soil evenly moist and add wood or straw mulch to help maintain the levels outside.
Indoors, place a humidifier nearby or position the plant on a pebble tray.
Chartreuse and purple Ipomoea batatas plants
Temperature
The ideal temperature range is between 50 and 95°F (10 and 35°C). The foliage will begin to die back if it gets below 45°F (7°C).
Exposure to freezing temperatures for too long will cause the sweet potato vine tubers to die as well.
Highs of 100°F (37°C) are tolerable, but your sweet potato vines will need more frequent watering, and may experience slower growth at these temperatures.
Fertilizer
Sweet potato vines have naturally vigorous growth, so fertilizer is not required as part of their regular care.
However some gardeners like to give them a jumpstart at the beginning of the growing season.
Most people grow ornamental sweet potato vines as annuals, so they won’t require repotting.
Sweet potato vine bulbs that are dormant and properly stored can be transplanted into the garden when warmer weather returns.
But if yours lives in the same container for several years, you will eventually need to repot it.
Wait until spring when it’s above 50°F (10°C), then move them up 1-2 pot sizes. Water thoroughly and keep them somewhere bright and warm while they recover.
Pruning
You can consistently prune your sweet potato vine plants throughout the season to encourage bushier growth, control the size, and prevent legginess.
Use sharp and sterile pruners to trim away any dead or damaged leaves throughout the year. Make cuts ¼” above the leaf nodes to promote branching growth.
To create a bushier plant instead of vine-like tendrils, prune it regularly from spring through fall.
Pruning my overgrown sweet potato vine
Pest Control Tips
Aphids, whiteflies, weevils, caterpillars, and beetles, such as the sweet potato looper, golden tortoise beetle, cucumber beetle, and flea beetles, are among the most common sweet potato vine insect pests.
But they’re also prone to attack from squirrels, moles, and gophers, which like to feed on the tubers.
Picking larger insects off by hand and dropping them in soapy water is the most effective natural pest control method.
Propagating a sweet potato vine is easy to do via division or by taking cuttings in the spring, summer, or fall.
It’s a common way for cold-climate gardeners to keep their favorite varieties year after year.
Use sharp, sterile pruners to clip long, healthy stems. Then remove all but the topmost leaves to expose the nodes.
Dip them in rooting hormone powder and plant them in soil, or submerge the nodes in water and wait for them to root. Then sit back and watch your sweet potato vine grow.
Sweet potato vines are easy to care for and quick to grow. But, like any plant, they sometimes suffer from poor health. Use these tips to get your vines back in good condition.
Leaves Turning Yellow
The most common causes of yellow or brown leaves on sweet potato vines are improper watering or poor light conditions.
They like evenly moist soil and will start to yellow if they dry out completely, or if you overwater to the point where they develop root rot.
Move them to a location with partial shade if they’re exposed to too much direct afternoon sun.
And, if they’re in pots or hanging baskets, make sure the container has holes in the bottom to allow the excess water to drain away.
Sweet Potato Vines Dying
Root rot, disease, pests, and cold temperatures are all common causes for dying sweet potato vines.
Treat pests immediately to prevent severe damage, and use a moisture gauge to ensure proper hydration.
It’s also a good idea to remove dead and dry leaves, which will help keep the plant healthy and looking nice.
They also need to be kept above 55°F (13°C). If your climate is too cold, overwinter the plants indoors in a warmer location, or take cuttings and root them for the following spring.
Drooping / Wilting Leaves
Drooping leaves are likely caused by improper watering, high heat, or transplant shock.
Both too much or too little water can cause the leaves of sweet potato vines to wilt.
Intense sun during hot weather can also cause wilting, especially if the plant is underwatered. This is a particular danger in warmer climates
Sweet Potato Vines Not Growing
Drought, temperature, and lack of light could all be slowing or stalling growth for your sweet potato vines.
Keep the well draining soil evenly moist and try to maintain a temperature between 55 and 95°F (13 and 35°C).
Keep these vigorous vines in partial sun for 6 or more hours a day to encourage faster growth. You can also top-dress with fertilizer granules to invigorate them.
Ornamental purple sweet potato vine
FAQs
Here I’ve answered some of the most commonly asked questions about sweet potato vine care. If yours isn’t on the list, please add it to the comments section below.
Is sweet potato vine annual or perennial?
A sweet potato vine is technically a perennial, but only in warmer climates (zones 9-11). It’s not cold hardy and is commonly grown as an annual in cooler regions.
Can you eat the tubers from ornamental sweet potatoes?
Technically you can eat the tubers from ornamental sweet potatoes. But they’re bitter and don’t taste good, so they’re best grown for purely decorative purposes.
Do sweet potato vines grow sweet potatoes?
Sweet potato vines do not grow the sweet potatoes that we’re familiar with from the grocery store. They do form edible tubers, but they don’t taste good, so I don’t recommend eating them.
Is sweet potato vine easy to grow?
Yes, sweet potato vines are easy to grow because they don’t require any special care. They’re tolerant of many different soil types, sun exposures, and don’t need fertilizer to be prolific.
Does sweet potato vine come back every year?
In zones 9-11 sweet potato vines can come back every year, as long as the ground doesn’t freeze. The foliage will die back when it gets below 45°F (7°C), but the tuber will survive and grow again in the spring.
If you want to learn how to maintain beautiful indoor plants year round, then you need a copy of my Houseplant Care eBook. It will show you exactly how to keep all of your plants thriving. Download your copy today!
More About Flower Gardening
Share your ornamental sweet potato vine care tips in the comments section below.
Petunia nana compacta ‘Alderman,’ aka ‘Alderman Blue,’ has deep violet blossoms. Mature dimensions are six to 12 inches tall and 12 to 18 inches wide.
‘Alderman’ is a bushy, compact plant with a low profile and a sweet fragrance. It is a dwarf multiflora variety characterized by smaller, more abundant flowers and a compact growth habit.
It has noteworthy drought and heat tolerance and performs best with deadheading.
In the garden, ‘Alderman’ is suited to mass planting in drifts and creates a ribbon of color as garden edging. It also shows well in planters and window boxes.
Daddy® Blue aka Petunia x ‘PAS3085’ is a showy grandiflora variety in the Daddy® series. It boasts lavender trumpets, throats veined with purple, and the ruffled edges typical of Daddy® cultivars.
Flowers measure three to four inches across. Upright, mounding plants achieve heights of 12 to 15 inches and a width of 10 to 12 inches. They are equally suited to beds and pots.
For best results, deadhead spent blossoms, avoid oversaturation, and consider a different variety if you live in a region with high humidity or risk rotting from excess moisture.
Double Cascade® Blue is a lush option. It’s a grandiflora with ruffled, fully double, deep violet-blue petals. The full-bodied flowers measure three to three and a half inches wide.
Despite the name, this type does not cascade dramatically. Instead, it is somewhat bushy and semi-trailing, a growth habit suited to pots, window boxes, and garden placements.
Double Madness™ Lavender, aka Petunia x ‘PAS3140,’ is a flouncy, ruffled floribunda. It has fully double petals in a bright shade of orchid. The sumptuous blooms measure two to three inches across.
Mature dimensions are 10 to 15 inches tall and 10 to 12 inches wide for a compact, bushy, semi-trailing attraction. Whether bedding in the garden or displaying in a pot or window box, this variety is sure to please.
Whether you choose to display it in a hanging planter, window box, or en masse in the landscape, this variety adds cheerful color and tolerates heat and drought well.
Grande Supertunia Mini Vista® ‘Violet Star’ is available from Proven Winners via Home Depot in a four-pack bundle of four-and-a-quarter-inch pots containing four- to eight-inch-tall plants.
7. Headliner Night Sky
Night Sky® is a stunning trailing variety in the Headliner™ series that offers a celestial array of white, starry speckles strewn across purple petals with blooms that measure two to two and a half inches across.
Overall mature dimensions are 10 to 16 inches tall and 20 to 30 inches wide. The growth habit is mounded and trailing, perfect for hanging baskets and mass plantings where it has room to spread.
The Hulahoop series offers ruffled blossoms with a three-inch diameter. The blue selection has blue-violet trumpets with bright white margins, a pattern known as picotee.
Mature dimensions are 10 to 15 inches tall and 10 to 12 inches wide, making this a versatile choice for pots and garden placements.
‘Laura Bush,’ is a fragrant hybrid of an old-fashioned trailing petunia and P. violacea, aka VIP petunia. It is part of the Texas Superstar® series that has been bred to withstand heat and disease.
This hybrid sports a profusion of small violet flowers that measure one to one and a half inches wide. The growth habit is bushy and trailing or spreading.
Mature dimensions are 18 to 24 inches tall and 24 to 36 inches wide, making it perfect for displaying in hanging baskets and pedestal pots from which its long stems can gracefully cascade.
‘Laura Bush’ is also suited to mass plantings where it is the focal point, such as a dedicated drift.
Display this choice in a dedicated planter or window box to showcase its exquisite coloration and robust blooms, or let it take center stage as a specimen in a prominent garden bed.
Shock Wave® Purple Tie Dye, aka Petunia x ‘PAS982897,’ from the Wave® series is a trailing variety with variegated, bicolor purple and white blossoms that measure one and a half to two inches across.
The colorful display is an ever-changing delight that varies with the temperature.
Its growth habit is mounding and spreading, with mature dimensions of seven to 10 inches tall and 20 to 30 inches wide.
Supercascade Blue is a grandiflora variety with showy blue-violet, velvety blossoms four to five inches in diameter.
This type has mounding, upright growth, and semi-trailing stems. Mature dimensions are 10 to 15 inches tall and 10 to 12 inches wide. Showcase it in a pot, window box, or garden bed.
Pleasantly fragrant Supertunia® Bordeaux™, aka ‘Lanbor,’ is a trailing variety with medium to large – or approximately three- to four-inch – pinkish-lavender blossoms with purple throats and veining.
The two-tone effect adds depth for exceptional visual appeal.
Cultivars in the Supertunia® series have a low profile and a slightly mounding, spreading growth habit. Mature dimensions are five to seven inches tall and 24 to 36 inches wide.
They show well in hanging planters, mass planted in borders, and where edging is desired.
In addition, they tolerate heat and drought, resist disease, and do not require deadheading.
Picasso in Purple® from the Supertunia®series ( Petunia x ‘DCASPITAYA’) is a trailing variety that displays striking bicolor blooms with magenta petals edged in lime green.
Mature dimensions are six to 12 inches tall and 24 to 36 inches wide.
When plants fill and spill over the sides of containers or wind through garden borders, the mounding and trailing growth habit shows these eye-catching flowers to best advantage.
As with other Supertunia® varieties, there is no need to deadhead, and the plants have noteworthy drought and heat tolerance.
Supertunia® Picasso in Purple® is available from Proven Winners via Home Depot in a four-pack bundle of four-and-a-quarter-inch pots containing four- to eight-inch tall plants.
16. Supertunia Priscilla
Fragrant Supertunia® Priscilla® is a trailing type adorned in fully double lavender blooms with purple throats and veining.
Characteristic of Supertunia®, it has a petite height of five to seven inches with a spread of 24 to 36 inches, as well as noteworthy heat and drought tolerance and disease resistance.
Fragrant Royal Velvet™ is a trailing variety in the Supertunia® series festooned with bright purple blossoms.
Mature dimensions are five to seven inches tall and 24 to 36 inches wide.
The petite height and spreading growth habit make it perfect for container gardening to showcase the trailing tendrils or planting en masse as a ground cover in borders or dedicated drifts.
The color purple and I go back a long way. From my childhood bedroom walls to my bike, winter coat, and favorite party dress, it had to be purple.
As a gardener, in addition to petunias, I gravitate toward flowers like asters, clematis, irises, pansies, and salvia to feed my purple passion.
Now that you’ve met 19 of the best purple petunia varieties, it’s time to add your favorites to your garden planner. Will you be planting in the garden? A hanging planter? A window box?
Consider pairing your new selections with other sun- and moisture-loving flora.
Purple is a versatile color in the landscape. Experiment and enjoy! Feel free to share your top picks, creative combinations, and photos with us in the comments.
If you found this article informative and want to read more about petunias, we recommend these guides next:
Backyard renovations are a worthy investment every homeowner should consider. They can raise your home’s value; upgrading your backyard is an excellent way to make your home more attractive and welcoming. It also helps ensure you enjoy your outdoor space to the maximum potential.
Outdoor upgrades allow you to showcase your style and taste outside your home as well as inside. A hospitable backyard also gives you the means to entertain family and friends outdoors, this can be particularly useful if your home is on the small side.
Easy ways to improve your backyard
To help you narrow down the options, let’s take a look at eight fantastic ways to improve your backyard.
1. Build a fire pit
The popularity of outdoor fire pits has risen, with a survey ranking them among the top ten backyard improvement ideas with a 75% consumer demand. They are an effective way to create a cosy outdoor atmosphere and light up the space.
While nature restricts the parts of the year you can spend in your backyard, adding a fire pit can extend your outdoor season by letting you enjoy your space in fall or on chilly spring nights. Fire pits are great for creating an attractive focal point, setting your outdoor living space’s tone and defining a gathering space. All of this enhances your backyard’s style.
An outdoor fire pit also provides functionality, meaning you can design it for multiple purposes. For instance, you can create a fire pit as a dining table’s centrepiece, or get grilling surfaces built-in to convert it into an extra backyard cooking appliance. If you don’t have the finances to get your fire pit professionally designed and built, online resources such as DecorHomeIdeas can help you DIY yours.
2. Create a water feature
A water feature adds charm and visual interest to your property, increasing kerb appeal and home value. With a flowing water feature you can mask noise pollution and create a calm, relaxing atmosphere. It can also naturally attract birds and other garden wildlife.
Water fountains, bird baths, miniature ponds, water basins, and waterfalls are all water feature ideas you can consider for your garden. Before adding a water feature to your backyard, consider the property size, yard’s layout, style, budget, permit requirements, and maintenance needs.
3. Add lighting
Outdoor lighting is an easy way to boost your home’s appeal and functionality. Professionally done lighting is a great way to enhance your home’s market value while attracting potential buyers.
You can use outdoor lighting to illuminate pathways, generate a captivating ambience, and highlight your property’s endearing features. Lighting your backyard can also increase safety and security, keeping intruders and thieves away. Plus, it allows you to enjoy your yard even when the sun goes down.
Hanging a chandelier, layering your lighting, using paper lanterns, spot lighting, security lighting, deck lighting, and outdoor wall lighting are all good options for garden lighting.
4. Build a garden arbour
Arbours are an excellent way to increase your garden’s visual interest while also supporting climbing plants’ growth. An arbour can also serve as a shady spot for relaxing, and if it’s big enough, it can act as a frame for your backyard.
Arbours come in various sizes, so make sure your backyard can accommodate the height and width of the one you choose. Arbours can be made using artificial or natural materials, so you have multiple options and styles to choose from. Your preferred material, including wood, metal, and vinyl, can impact your budget and design.
5. Install a patio
Patios are among the best ways to extend your living space. A patio is a worthy investment for raising your home’s value; it increases your space’s usability and kerb appeal, and if you enclose it you can also enjoy the outdoors during the rainy and cold seasons.
Patios are valuable additions to homes that love entertaining guests because they help create a space where people can meet and interact. Looking at attractive backyard patio design photos and ideas is a good way to find inspiration for your outdoor space.
6. Add shade structures
Personalised shade structures can help improve your backyard’s visual appeal. Besides creating a dramatic architectural piece, they can be functional in style, enhancing your property’s aesthetics.
Shade structures provide comfort and protection by keeping you and your guests cool while preventing dehydration, sunburn, and UV exposure. In addition, they can block sun rays from doorways and windows, minimising the energy required to maintain a comfortable indoor temperature and reducing energy costs.
Shade structures are a cost-effective option for improving your backyard. Gazebos, pergolas, retractable canopies, umbrellas, and overhanging shade structures are all ideas to consider.
7. Invest in lawn maintenance
Lawn maintenance is an effective way to enhance your home’s look and complement your well-designed landscape. A healthy lawn can prevent soil and water erosion, reduce noise, improve flood control, create a cooling effect in warm weather, and provide a habitat for wildlife.
Frequent watering, fertilising, mowing, de-thatching, aerating, and fighting weeds and pests will all help to maintain a healthy lawn. If you’re short on time for lawn maintenance, a professional lawn care programme is worth considering.
8. Fence your yard
Backyard fencing can help prevent unsightly views beyond your property line. It can also protect your landscape, especially in regions with driving rains or high winds. Fencing is available in wood, metal, mixed materials, and living green wall designs.
Based on where you live, fencing can significantly increase your home’s value. For example, properties close to noisy roads can see a value rise with yard fencing. Fencing your backyard also deters prying eyes and uninvited guests or unauthorised access.
Hopefully these ways to improve your backyard have given you lots of inspiration and help you to create a fabulous outdoor area. For more ideas, take a look at this article on transforming your outdoor space.
While flower nectar is important for hummingbirds, they need more than nectar-rich plants to survive. See what you can do to provide suitable native habitat with places to nest and forgo the use of pesticides to ensure their main food source—protein-rich bugs—are abundant.
It is mesmerizing to watch a hummingbird gathering nectar from flowers.
If you are close enough, there’s no mistaking the whirring sound of the wings as the bird hovers in place. Out comes it’s long, unusual, tongue-like proboscis, shaped just-so, reaching deep inside to access the nectar. Sometimes they take in so much they spit the excess out in a little spray!
Sensing a good food source, bees, butterflies, and other hummingbirds may approach, but the dining hummingbird will have none of it. Get your own elsewhere or you will be chased away!
So which flowers do hummingbirds like and why do they favor certain flowers within a garden even when many varieties are available?
There are two reasons.
Which Flowers Do Hummingbirds Like?
Hummingbirds have co-evolved with certain flower species. Many of these flowers have long, tubular structures including cardinal flower and columbine, perfectly suited to the unusual shape of the hummingbird’s bill. In turn, hummingbirds may provide pollination services.
Also, timing is everything. Nectar supply varies throughout blooming cycles. Hummingbirds and other nectar consumers will seek out the best supply in the moment. When one flower species has peaked, they find another.
But nectar is just one part of their survival.
The Entire Environment Matters
We tend to put a lot of emphasis on flowers but it’s the totality of the environment that matters, not just within our garden but all along their migratory routes and within nesting locations.
The main staple of a hummingbird’s diet is protein-rich insects.
Hummingbirds need nectar but they also need protein and lots of it. The bulk of their diet is invertebrates like insects, spiders, and various larvae.
In order to have a garden with lots of protein-rich bugs, you need diversity. This means an assortment of non-invasive trees, shrubs, and flowers along with fresh water and healthy soil—all teeming with life. Every animal needs certain plants (and plants rely on animals), and, with all needs met, the circle of life can thrive.
So, when you think about providing a welcoming garden for hummingbirds, along with the right flowers for nectar, consider the big picture.
Are there places to nest and shelter in trees and shrubs?
Is there a diverse selection of plants to support the food web?
Is the area pesticide and herbicide-free?
Do you have healthy, fertile soil?
Is fresh water available?
It’s touchy subject but allowing domesticated cats outdoors is another issue. We can’t stop natural predators but reducing other threats benefits all wild things.
Together, these basic things will help create a hospitable environment that the hummingbirds will return to year after year.
50 Perennials That Attract Hummingbirds
Before choosing plants, check that they are non-invasive and suited to your growing region.
Note: spp. after a plant name means species.
Bee balm & Bergamot (Monarda spp.) Perennial in zones 4-9
Begoniam (Begonia spp.) Perennial in zones 6-9
Blazing star (Liatris spp.) Perennial in zones 5-9
Bleeding heart (Lamrocapnos and Dicentra spp.) Perennial in zones 2-9
Butterfly weed (Asclepias tuberosa) Perennial in zones 4-9
Canna (Canna generalis) Perennial in zones 8-10
Cardinal flower (Lobelia cardinalis) Perennial in zones 2-9
Carpet bugle (Ajuga reptans) Perennial in zones 4-10
Century plant (Agave Americana) Perennial in zones 8-10
Columbine (Aquilegia ssp.) Perennial in zones 3-8
Coral bells (Heuchera sanguinea) Perennial in zones 3-9
I like this style of feeder for a few reasons. First, it provides a perch for the birds as they feed. This is important so they don’t waste energy. Also, it’s easy to clean, which helps prevent disease.
I’ve kept Rhode island reds a couple of different times over my lifetime and have decided to do it again this spring. I kept them back when there wasn’t so much info floating around prior to the internet. I once worked at my sister’s restaurant and they had a huge salad bar and I would bring home half a garbage can of salad bar scraps and basically slop the fenced in part, plus I would rake garbage cans of leaves and dump it over. I think we threw some laying mash or pellets on the ground in the mix occasionally. I would open it and rake the contents of the results into the garden and use the soil in a green house made of visqueen plastic and poles of some sort. I threw their crushed egg shells back in and anything pulled up from the garden. Late 1970s early 80’s after reading a few organic gardening and mother earth news articles. Our home was a 1950 travel trailer. Those were the days. We survived off scrambled eggs, few green onions, trout from the nearby dam and a few grocery items basically. Now we are older and retired and am going to get a small tractor supply coop, with run, buy laying mash and pellets and let them be our composters and pets and egg layers. This time I’ll know better and get the chickens sexed. No roosters. We didn’t have any predator problems for the most part but they stayed confined. So if you are looking for free feeding inputs, perhaps some of the restaurants would save some good fruit and veggie scraps if any have wonderful salad bars in the area. I didn’t free-range them, I may be a little different this time and treat them a little more like pets and see if I can train them, walk around with them yet get them to go back in the coop. I’m only going to get about 4 hens. It’s just the 2 of us now. I suspect a lot of this so called conspiracy is people not understanding the seasons affect their ladies. Spring is more conducive to raising babies and their egg laying will increase with the light. I may dumpster dive the grocery store for veggies for them. It’s probably cheaper to just buy eggs but I find this all therapy, exercise, recreation, and a connection to the divine all rolled into one.
Yes, it is satisfying to put all the pieces together. And I love taking “waste” and turning it into eggs.
I’m thinking of connecting with a local restaurant for food scraps. Between the pigs and the chickens and the compost pile, it just makes sense.
I did a livestream the other night covering some of the issues we’ve had with raising chickens, as well as the problem of supplying them with food without purchasing bagged feed:
Note: the volume gets better after a minute or so.
I’m sorry. Really, I do love houseplants, but there is no hellebore way that I am going to shell out serious cash for one. I don’t really care if a Monstera is trending or popular or super rare. But, apparently, other people think differently and have way deeper pockets. So being a curious bird, I wanted to know a little more about these coveted plants and find out why they are so exorbitantly priced. You still won’t see any of these haute houseplants in my own home (unless, of course, someone gifts me one—wink wink), but at least now I have a better understanding of why others are so willing to splurge.
The Why
In my mind, no explanation will ever make it okay to fork over your monthly mortgage for a houseplant, but there are reasons that certain plants come with ridiculous pricetags. Here are the main reasons I unearthed:
1. High demand due to their rarity and limited supply.
2. No chance you’ll find it at your local garden center.
3. Recently developed or hybridized.
4. Doesn’t produce viable seeds.
5. Very slow growing and/or slow to propagate.
6. Social media has hyped unique plants.
A Few Prized and Pricey Plants
Though these specimens are all expensive, you may find them sold in a range of prices, as the size, maturity and, in some cases degree of variegation, increases the desirability.
1. Variegated Monsteras
Above: A Monstera Adansonii once sold for $38,000 on eBay. Pictured here are rooted versions of Monstera Adansonii Albo sold by NorthlandBotanical on Etsy; a potted plant with 1 leaf is $138 and with 2 leaves is $210.
What makes these plants total status symbols and extra special are the genetic mutations creating mottled white and green patterns. For best success, grow these plants in a humid, very bright spot and water thoroughly once a week. Some of these fetch between $100 to thousands of dollars, depending on their marbled pattern and maturity of plant. Monstera Adansonii, with its variegated swiss cheese-like leaf shape, once sold for $38,000 on eBay. Monstera Thai Constellation and Monstera Deliciosa Albo Variegata with its white splashes are other unique varieties that plant collectors swoon over.
2. Large Monstera Obliqua
Above: NSE Tropicals sells a 4-inch tall Monstera Obliqua for $175 with this plea: “Please don’t buy if you aren’t an experienced grower.” Photograph via Etsy’s DingPlants, which sells a node for $75 and a starter plant for $250.
It’s crazy that this plant is so sought after, considering that it has more holes than leaf. This slow growing plant could cost you $1,500 for a six inch pot. Like most tropical plants, provide a warm spot and high humidity. Because of its vining habit, showcase this plant tumbling from a pot on a self or train it up a moss pole.
While I am a total fan of the hot pink this desirable plant sports, I’m not sure I could spend a couple hundred dollars for a small specimen or a couple thousand for a mature plant. Keep this beauty well watered and to ensure its variegation, provide bright, indirect light.
Resembling a small fringy palm or fern, this unique plant has thin leaves that unravel corkscrew-like. Place it in a spot with high humidity and provide low light.
5. Hoya carnosa ‘Compacta’
Above: A 6-inch hanging pot Hoya Carnosa Compacta (also known as Hoya Hindu) is $189 from 3Exoticgreen on Etsy.
Ranging in price from a modest $40 to $6,500, this rare semi-succulent plant twists and turns..and definitely turns heads. This plant is perfect for hanging baskets but can be slow to root and establish itself if grown from a cutting. Provide high humidity, bright indirect light and well-draining potting soil.
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Fourteen years ago when we moved to Fairfield Bay in north-central Arkansas, I wanted a plot in the Community Garden. The town is lushly forested in the Ozarks, and shade is a challenge for any kind of gardening, especially sun-loving vegetables. I really wanted to use sustainable organic practices, but being surrounded by plots not practicing such made me look for other space. Then they decided to expand the community garden, and I was able to secure the space for an organic site. We formed a core group and used Facebook to gather other interested gardeners as well as to call those waiting for a plot in the existing garden. In a year’s time, we constructed 24 4×12 raised beds using recycled materials and built a tool shed from deck tear-out material and grant money from our community fund. BirdSong Gardens filled up with enthusiastic gardeners and grew a good amount of produce for the Shirley School Food Bank. We have since created an association, FFB Organic Gardeners Association, patterned after the 40-year-old Sunshine Gardens in Austin Texas. Our mission is to provide organic gardening space, create a community of gardeners, provide education on organic sustainability, and provide produce for local food banks. Our waitlist grew, so we are now targeting April 1 to open up 24 more beds and expand our outreach-designated beds from 3 to 10. For a nominal fee gardeners are given unlimited water, a drip system, deer fencing, and tools to use on site and become part of a fun community of gardeners. We have raised funds through bake sales, building creative birdhouses and garden stakes (it helped to have a generous and talented artist and her construction-savvy hubby in the group). We also participated in the 4th of July parade, the Scarecrow contest and the Christmas parade for fun and marketing.
We are so thankful for the support of the community, which provided garden tools, fencing, lumber, bricks, equipment, and operators (it’s so hard to dig post holes by hand in this rocky soil), soil, labor for filling the 17-inch-deep beds (a crew from the county jail are our heroes!) funding, and the space, of course!
It has been a great and productive journey for our little band of gardeners.
The garden shed gives gardeners a place to store their tools, while the deer fence keeps the produce safe from hungry mouths.
Building birdhouses to help raise funds for the garden
The best part of a community garden may be the community! Here’s how the gardeners participated in the local Christmas parade.
Have a garden you’d like to share?
Have photos to share? We’d love to see your garden, a particular collection of plants you love, or a wonderful garden you had the chance to visit!
To submit, send 5-10 photos to [email protected] along with some information about the plants in the pictures and where you took the photos. We’d love to hear where you are located, how long you’ve been gardening, successes you are proud of, failures you learned from, hopes for the future, favorite plants, or funny stories from your garden.
