Category: Home & Garden

Today we’re featuring an urban garden in New York City.

My husband, Ian, and I (Kathy) live in a small house on a 100-foot by 25-foot lot in Queens, New York. Although we’d composted for years, we never gardened until 2020 when I left my corporate job. Ian’s mother and grandmother grew up in our house, and we still have the crabapple tree (Malus hybrid, Zones 4–8), bigleaf hydrangea (Hydrangea macrophylla, Zones 5–9), and rose that Great-grandfather Endsor planted.

Over the years, Adam’s needle (Yucca filamentosa, Zones 5–10), daylilies (Hemerocallis sp. Zones 3–9), deadnettle (Lamium purpureum, Zones 3–9), dandelions (Taraxaxum officinale, Zones 3–9), English ivy (Hedera helix, Zones 5–9), cleavers (Galium aparine, annual), pokeweed (Phytolacca americana, Zones 4–8), hay-scented fern (Dennstaedtia punctilobula, Zones 3–8), oak trees (Quercus species), and even the errant tomato and squash plant (from seeds in the compost) made themselves at home in our neglected yard. 

Some years the yard was a wild mess that our friends now admit used to scare them! Infrequently, Ian would mow and it would look like this.

With more time on our hands, Ian and I decided to finally do something with the redwood planks we’d purchased years ago for raised beds and never used. This is the yard in early 2020, when Ian started to think about where to put the beds. We hoped that all the compost we’d made over the years would help mitigate the excess lead in our soil. (Soil testing is highly recommended for NYC gardens, especially one that tests for heavy metals.)

Concurrently, Ian dismantled an obsolete chimney and made a brick path between the beds. He’s the hardscape person, and I’m the gardener.

Later that year he also made a patio farther back, near the crabapple tree. Being inexperienced gardeners, we unwisely paid no attention to sun and shade conditions. We just put the patio and beds where we thought they would look good. If we were doing this today, we’d reverse the patio and the beds; the back north part of our yard gets the most sun.

I was late in seed sowing, but a friend gave us some tomato starts, and I bought some pepper starts. Lettuce and radish are fast growers, and the squash seeds quickly took off once the weather was warmer (squash is my favorite). We cut down the “volunteer” pin oak tree in order to give the vegetables more access to the sun.

And then I started taking classes at the New York Botanical Garden, which led me to Doug Tallamy’s books (Bringing Nature Home, etc.) and the importance of indigenous plants, especially oak trees. It was too late for our backyard oak, but we do have another pin oak in the small front yard, which we will happily leave in place. I decided that the perimeter (along the fences) and the back west (under the crabapple) and the back east (where you can see the stone path) would be home to future native plantings.

Tasting homegrown food is miraculous, and it made us gardeners for life. Ian became determined to add more growing space, so in 2021, he reconfigured the beds (and added more beds in the way back), which we filled with a mixture of vermiculite, peat, and five kinds of compost so we wouldn’t have to worry about lead. (It wasn’t until later that I learned about the unsustainability of peat.) This photo shows the layout we had in 2021 (the jugs are winter-sown native plant seeds).

And here is the 2021 garden in August. We grew lots of kale and admired the silvery leaves well into autumn. I read about companion planting and mixed in marigolds (Tagetes sp., annual), zinnia (Zinnia elegans, annual), anise hyssop (Agastache foeniculum, Zones 4–8), and alyssum (Lobularia maritima, annual) with the vegetables.

Annuals like coleus with colorful foliage helped fill in the spaces that would later be filled with native plants. Here’s rattlesnake master (Eryngium yuccifolium, Zones 3–8) on the far left, slender mountain mint (Pycnanthemum tenuifolium, Zones 4–9), stone mountain mint (Pycnanthemum curvipes, Zones 4–9), ‘Little Joe’ Joe Pye weed (Eupatorium dubium ‘Little Joe’, Zones 4–8), and a dwarf mountain laurel (Kalmia latifolia, Zones 4–9) called ‘Firecracker’, with coleus (Coleus scutellarioides, Zones 10–11 or as an annual) filling in. The bees love coleus flowers, but not as much as mountain mint and Joe Pye weed.

Then I read about the importance of rotating crops. Here’s the garden in 2022. You can see that Ian added a tomato trellis (which can be shifted to other areas in later years). Later, he made an arbor using only found materials. And next year, he’s going to add support for what we now know is a climbing rose.

And here are some of the harvests we’ve had. We eat a lot of vegetables every day, and most of them came from our own yard last summer.

And just as satisfying were the native perennials and the year-round beauty and insects they brought to the yard. It’s surprising how little space you need to start a native-plant garden. Here’s a tiny shade area in the way back, under the crabapple tree.

And here’s a shade garden close to the house, in early spring, with violets (Viola sororia, Zones 3–7), woodland phlox (Phlox divaricata, Zones 3–8), Virginia bluebells (Mertensia virginica, Zones 3–8), and foamflower (Tiarella cordifolia, Zones 4–9).

Black cohosh (Actea racemosa, Zones 3–8) is planted nearby, and the seeds look almost golden in the summer after the flowers fade.

The aromatic aster (Symphyotrichum oblongifolium, Zones 3–8) has been one of our great joys, so much so that I added some to the front yard and more in the way back to grow near the ‘Fireworks’ goldenrod (Solidago rugosa ‘Fireworks’, Zones 4–8).

All told, we’ve added over 70 native plants to the backyard and small front yard. After taking classes at the New York Botanical Garden (shout out to Kim Eirman/Ecobeneficial.com), reading Doug Tallamy, Mary Reynolds (The Garden Awakening), Robin Wall Kimmerer (Braiding Sweetgrass), Sara Stein (Noah’s Garden), joining native-plant Facebook groups, attending many native-plant talks, volunteering on the High Line, and visiting the Mt. Cuba Center, I’m more determined than ever to increase the percentage of native plants on our property.

Want to see more from Kathy? Check out her Instagram: woodside_growing

 

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Decorating your outdoor space is an exciting way to enjoy nature’s beauty while sprucing up your outdoor area. Planting decorative ornamental trees can be an incredibly rewarding experience, and you can find many ornamental trees online. Not only will it add unique and beautiful elements to your outdoor space, but it can also provide a way for you to connect with nature on a deeper level.

When it comes to choosing the best decorative ornament trees to plant in the United Kingdom, there are plenty of options to consider! With the proper care and maintenance, ornamental trees can live for years and add an interesting element to your outdoor space. In this blog post, we’ll be discussing the top 5 decorative ornament trees to plant this year in the UK.

1. Japanese Maple

Perfect for smaller gardens, the Japanese Maple is a deciduous tree prized for its delicate foliage, vibrant colours, and generous shape. With its low-maintenance growth pattern and sweet-scented flowers in the spring, this beautiful tree is an excellent choice to add a touch of elegance and colour to any outdoor area. The Japanese Maple also does well in various soil types and can be planted in full sun or partial shade for best results.

2. Bald Cypress

It is native to the UK and is often seen in parks, gardens, and other public spaces. Its distinctive foliage is a rich green colour during summer and turns a beautiful rusty orange in the autumn. This tree is also very tolerant of wet environments and can survive short periods of flooding, making it a great choice for the known wet UK climate. It is also low in maintenance and can reach heights of 15 to 20 metres when mature.

3. Redbud

Not only is this small tree relatively quick-growing and low-maintenance, but it also has a beautiful and very distinctive form. The redbud can produce delicate pink or white blossoms in the spring, and its leaves will turn a deep red in the autumn. Its small size makes it an excellent choice for gardens with a limited amount of space. The redbud is exceptionally hardy and can tolerate cold winters, so it can thrive in most parts of the UK.

4. Black Gum

This native of the UK is an attractive tree with a distinct bark that matures to a deep purple-black. The leaves are glossy and oval and, in the autumn, turn a brilliant red, orange and yellow. This deciduous tree requires full sun and moist, well-drained soil and is an ideal choice for adding year-round colour to the landscape. It is also quite resistant to pests and diseases, making it a great choice for UK gardeners.

5. Flowering Dogwood

Its showy white or pink petals, symbolic of the four seasons, make it an eye-catching addition to a wide range of gardens. The flowering dogwood grows quickly and is relatively easy to care for, meaning you can enjoy its majestic beauty in a short period of time. The tree is also fairly resistant to disease and pests, making it a low-maintenance addition to any garden. Its ability to tolerate moderate shade and drought-like conditions make this species an excellent choice for gardens in the UK.

Conclusion 

Whether you’re looking for a beautiful flowering tree, a stately evergreen, or a unique tree with interesting foliage, many options are available to add visual interest and help create a stunning landscape. With careful consideration of the tree’s size, shape, and growth rate, you can find the perfect tree to complement your garden and add beauty to your property for many years to come.

 

Shrubs are available in a range of sizes and shapes with a clean, contained profile that requires little maintenance.

And with over 10,000 registered cultivars, there’s a wide selection to choose from.

In this guide, I’ll cover everything you need to know to cultivate azaleas in your garden.

Here’s what’s to come:

What Are Azaleas?

Azaleas belong to the Rhododendron genus, and they are members of the heath family (Ericaceae).

Sometimes they’re classified into two distinct subgenera, Pentanthera and Tsutsusi, other times they’re two of the three main groups that make up the Rhododendron genus.

For the home gardener, what’s important to remember is that they fall into two types: deciduous and evergreen.

Most evergreen varieties are native to Japan, with a few species each from China, Korea, and Taiwan.

The evergreens grown in home gardens are typically hybrids developed for improved qualities such as disease resistance, flowering time, and cold or heat tolerance.

The deciduous species are native to eastern Asia, eastern Europe, and North America.

Several native North American species grace our gardens, such as Florida flame (R. austrinum) and pinkshell (R. vaseyi). And other native species are used for breeding purposes.

Plants are often grouped according to their bloom time, which may be early, midseason, or late.

The early bloomers typically flower from late winter through early spring. Midseason types flower in late spring, and the late group blossoms from early summer through fall.

Planting an assortment of different cultivars and species in your garden is an excellent way to enjoy their floral display for the entire growing season.

Check out our guide to azalea bloom times to learn more.

Cultivation and History

Ancient artists and poets of both China and Japan have long celebrated the beauty of azalea flowers.

In Japan, where most of the Asian varieties hail from, gardeners at Buddhist monasteries and royal palaces have cultivated and bred these ornamentals for over 500 years.

The first recorded mention dates to the 15th century and Japanese classifications were first codified in 1692 in a text titled Kinshu Makura, which translates to “A Brocade Pillow.”

Dutch traders first introduced Japanese species into Holland in 1680. Later, the British imported species from China. And in 1690 in Virginia, English botanist John Bannister recorded the first of several American species, the delightful R. viscosum, or swamp azalea.

Early American and British collectors quickly jumped on the azalea bandwagon, sending plants and seeds back to Europe for breeding purposes.

But it wasn’t until 1825 in Ghent, Belgium, that the first hybrids from North American stock were successfully produced and recorded, with cultivars coming back to North America in the mid-1800s.

In their native habitat, species plants typically thrive in Zones 5 to 9. But in the mid-1950s, breeders at the University of Minnesota developed the first cold hardy cultivars, significantly expanding their range of use in the garden.

Today, plants from the Northern Lights series are the hardiest that are commercially available, with a selection of outstanding cultivars suitable for chilly Zones 3 and 4.

Propagation

You can grow azaleas from seed. But because most of the available stock are hybrids, seedlings rarely reproduce true to the parent plant.

The only way to ensure a clone of the parent plant is to propagate vegetatively, via stem cuttings or stem layering.

Evergreens are the easiest to propagate from cuttings, while deciduous varieties typically give the best results when layered.

From Stem Cuttings

Ideally, you’ll need to take semi-hardwood cuttings. This is the wood that’s still flexible, midway between tender new shoots and mature wood.

1. In spring, right after flowering, collect cuttings five to six inches in length taken from stem tips. Choose stems of one-year old wood that’s semi-flexible – they should bend without snapping.
2. Remove leaves from the lower half and trim cut ends to just below a leaf node.
3. Lightly scrape the bark for two inches above the cut end with a sharp knife – just enough to remove the outer bark in a few spots.
4. Dip the cut end into powdered rooting hormone and gently shake to remove the excess.
5. Insert the lower third of each stem into a small container filled with a moist rooting medium, such as a combination of one-third compost, one-third peat moss or vermiculite, and one-third sand.
6. Set containers in a sheltered spot in the garden with bright, indirect light.
7. Water regularly, keeping the potting medium moist but not waterlogged.
8. Roots form in four to eight weeks, and new plants can be transferred to larger pots as needed.
9. Keep the containers in a sheltered spot in the garden until they can be planted out the following spring. Provide shelter in spots such as cold frames, against foundations, or tucked under trees and shrubs.
10. Provide winter protection such as a mulch of pine needles or straw or a cloche to protect against frost as needed.

Layering

Layering is an easy process that involves encouraging root development on a stem that’s still attached to the parent plant.

The best time to layer is in early spring before leaves have emerged, but early fall works as well.

Spring layered plants can be transplanted into the garden in the fall of the same year. But with either spring- or fall-layered plants, waiting a year or two before transplanting is better.

This allows new plants to mature and gain size quickly in a familiar environment so that they continue to thrive when moved to a new location.

1. Choose a lower branch that’s long and flexible enough to easily bend and reach the ground without snapping. Two to three inches of the stem should make contact with the soil (this section is known as the contact stem). The stem tip should extend above ground for six to eight inches.
2. At the point where you want the contact stem to produce roots, gently scrape away about an inch of the outer bark.
3. Dip the wounded section in powdered rooting hormone and shake off the excess.
4. Prepare the rooting area by digging a shallow trench three to four inches long.
5. Place the contact stem in the trench and cover it with soil.
6. Use a landscape pin or place a rock on top of the buried section to ensure it stays in place.
7. Roots form after six to 12 weeks. If you feel resistance from a gentle tug on the stem tip, that is a sign that it has taken root.
8. Allow plants to root in place for up to two years.

To transplant, snip the parent stem close to the ground.

Using a spade or trowel, loosen the soil around the contact stem, digging in just outside the dripline of the new plant.

The dripline is an imaginary circle that extends from the furthest branch tip all the way around the plant. Use this as a guide when digging up young shrubs – root growth is typically contained within the dripline.

Gently lift the root ball and transplant to its new location as described below.

Transplanting

Potted shrubs are best planted in spring or fall. For a showy display, they require the right amount of light, and soil with an acidic pH that’s moist and well-draining.

Here are the planting steps:

1. Before transplanting, water the plant thoroughly – it’s very difficult for a dry root ball to absorb moisture once it’s in the ground.
2. Create a planting hole two to three times the width of the root ball and the same depth as the container it’s currently growing in.
3. Mix in plenty of organic material such as well-aged compost, leaf mold, or shredded pine bark until the soil mixture is one-third to one-half organic humus.
4. Carefully remove plants from their pots and examine the roots. Gently loosen and separate them, to encourage new growth.
5. If the plants are root bound with a dense mat of fibrous roots visible on the surface of the pot, use a clean, sterile knife to slash the mat in four to six spots. Cut about two inches deep and space the slashes evenly around the root ball.
6. Place in the hole, and check to ensure that the soil is level with the ground. Avoid sinking the root ball below the ground level to prevent roots from standing in water. Backfill with amended soil and gently firm in place.
7. Apply a generous three to four-inch layer of organic mulch – pine bark, pine needle straw, shredded leaves, or straw. Create a mulch-free well around the stem base to keep the wood dry. This helps prevent rot and keeps rodents from nibbling the bark.
8. Water slowly and thoroughly, allowing the soil to absorb the moisture without runoff.

Plants can be spaced two to five feet apart, depending on their mature size.

Space two feet apart for plants that grow up to three feet at maturity, two to three feet apart for plants up to five feet, and three to five feet apart for those greater than five feet.

Read more about propagating azaleas in our guide.

How to Grow

Providing the correct lighting is a key factor to consider when planting azaleas.

Too much sun and they’re going to shrivel up and suffer, but too little light and you’ll have a flowering shrub without any flowers on it!

Dappled sunlight is the solution.

You’ll want to place these shrubs in an area that receives either morning light with afternoon shade or in a position where they receive varied levels of sunlight throughout the day. About six hours of sun in total, spread across the day is ideal.

A location with hot afternoon sun can be tolerated, provided the soil is kept consistently moist. But be careful – the leaves of some species will fade from prolonged, intense sunlight.

Avoid planting close to south- or west-facing walls – radiant heat from wall surfaces can cause moisture loss and stress in hot spells.

Also, avoid locating them directly under trees. Trees do provide filtered shade, but they also compete for water and nutrients, so place your shrubs at the edge of tree root zones.

Rich organic matter in the soil is necessary for plant health, and azaleas prefer acidic soils with a pH between 4.5 and 6.0.

If you’re unsure of your soil’s pH, test the soil before planting and amend as needed with ammonium sulfate or garden sulfur, per package directions.

Good drainage is a must-have for these plants to thrive. Azaleas cannot abide wet feet, so it’s vital to avoid sites that are prone to standing water.

Soil that’s clay based or otherwise heavy and dense retains too much water, and sandy soils drain too quickly.

If your soil is heavy, add one to two shovelfuls of landscape sand or pea gravel to improve drainage.

Conversely, if your soil is sandy, mix in one to two shovelfuls of peat moss. This will help retain moisture, and members of the Ericaceae family love the acidic nature of peat.

If your soil conditions are less than ideal, consider building a raised bed or plant them in containers instead.

You can get the lowdown on how to grow azaleas in containers in this guide.

Whatever the soil texture, before planting it’s beneficial to generously mix compost with the existing topsoil, adding it at a ratio of one part compost to one part topsoil.

Azaleas require about one inch of water per week, so if your rainfall levels are on the low end of the scale, plants will need supplemental irrigation.

When watering, avoid overhead irrigation if possible – it encourages foliar diseases like leaf gall and petal blight.

Growing Tips

When provided with the right growing conditions, azaleas are highly rewarding ornamentals that are easy to cultivate and require little maintenance.

Check the following tips to get the most from these lovely shrubs:

• Provide a site with dappled sunlight or morning sun with afternoon shade.
• Ensure an acidic environment with a soil pH of 4.5 to 6.0.
• Create a well-draining site with no standing water.

Pruning and Maintenance

All pruning should be performed in the springtime immediately after the shrub flowers.

Azaleas, like fuchsias, start to form next year’s flower buds shortly after they finish blooming, so pruning in this narrow window is ideal.

If you prune too late, you risk cutting off next year’s buds, which results in fewer flowers.

A measure of the appeal of these plants is their informal growth habit, so attempts to prune them into a boxy shape will be ineffective.

Hard pruning should also be avoided because it results in irregular patches of flowers. After they’ve been pruned, new growth flushes forward to rejuvenate the plant – but you’ll need to wait two or three years before you’ll see flowers again.

Take a step back and imagine the shape you’re looking for before pruning.

If you’re reducing the overall size of the shrub, check to determine what branch goes where and cut as few times as possible. Remember, you can take it off but you can’t put it back on.

Learn more about how to prune azaleas in our guide. (coming soon!)

Deadheading isn’t required, but you can remove spent blooms to tidy up appearances if desired.

And winter care is straightforward. Reduce watering at the end of the growing season and add a thick, three- to five-inch layer of mulch of shredded leaves, pine needles, or straw to protect roots against freezing and thaw cycles.

If unusually cold weather is forecast, plants can be covered with a porous material such as burlap or an old bed sheet to protect against freezing temperatures.

Use landscape pins to anchor covers to the ground until seasonal temperatures return.

For more details, check out our guide to azalea winter care. (coming soon!)

Cultivars to Select

As mentioned, azaleas are generally divided into two types – deciduous or evergreen. And aside from temperature considerations, they all enjoy the same basic growing conditions.

When choosing, remember that evergreen types are fond of warm climates and won’t survive in freezing temperatures. Look to the deciduous species and cultivars for cold-hardy plants.

Now, here’s a sampling of some popular varieties.

Managing Pests and Disease

If your azalea is growing in the right place, you won’t need to worry much about pests and disease problems.

Insects like caterpillars and lace bugs can be hand-picked or treated with an insecticidal soap.

Underground, nematodes can attack the roots. Unfortunately, there’s no treatment for this. Head off problems before they start with a healthy and disease-resistant cultivar planted in the right location.

More serious issues may be caused by bark scale, whiteflies, and leaf miners.

Bark scale blackens branches and appears as small, ashy or white cottony spots and a sticky sooty substance on the wood. Your best bet is to remove the infected limbs and branches, and then dispose of them.

Whiteflies will cause yellow, wilted, and dying leaves. Use neem oil to fend them off.

The azalea leaf miner (Caloptilia azaleella) is a much more serious pest, and dealing with an infestation may require removal of infected plants.

Leaf miners are moth larvae deposited on the underside of leaves. They tunnel inside the foliage and as they mature and feed, small brown blisters appear then leaves brown and curl at the tips and margins.

As for diseases, powdery mildew, caused by Erysipe azaleae, and petal blight (Ovulinia azaleae) are common fungal problems that can generally be controlled with a fungicide.

Powdery mildew appears as a fuzzy white or grey dusting on leaves and stems. Learn more about how to treat powdery mildew in this guide.

Petal blight first appears as small, waterlogged spots on petals that quickly merge, causing flowers to turn slimy and rot.

More serious disease issues include twig blight and rust. Twig blight, a fungal disease caused by Briosia azaleae, results in the buds and twig tips turning brown and dying.

Rust can be caused by one or more species of fungi in the Pucciniastrum genus. It appears as pale green to yellow dots that form blotches of yellow to orange spores.

Removal and disposal of infected leaves and branches is the only safe solution for these infections.

Best Uses

With brilliant flashes of color in a sea of green foliage and delightful structure, azaleas make a perfect statement piece.

They work in mixed beds and borders and are fantastic planted as a flowering hedge. And some of the smaller ones are a standout in rock gardens.

Or try some on the patio in large containers or pots.

For a broad sweep of color, a dozen plants placed together give maximum effect and can be beautifully offset with flowering perennials like black-eyed Susans or a sweep of ornamental grasses.

Quick Reference Growing Guide

Plant Type:	Perennial flowering shrub	Flower/Foliage Color:	Cream, coral, mauve, orange, pink, purple, red, salmon, white, yellow/green
Native to:	Asia, North America, Europe, northern Australia	Maintenance:	Low
Hardiness (USDA Zone):	3-9	Tolerance:	Light shade
Bloom Time:	Early spring, early summer, fall	Soil Type:	Organically-rich loam
Exposure:	Dappled sunlight or morning sun with afternoon shade	Soil pH:	4.5-6.0
Spacing:	2-6 feet, depending on variety	Soil Drainage:	Well-draining
Planting Depth:	Depth of root ball	Attracts:	Bees, butterflies, hummingbirds
Time to Maturity:	Up to 3 years	Uses:	Beds, borders, containers, foundations, hedges, specimens
Height:	2-6 feet, depending on variety	Family:	Ericaceae
Spread:	1-5 feet, depending on variety	Genus:	Rhododendron
Water Needs:	Moderate	Species:	Alabamense, albiflorum, arborescens, atlanticum, austrinum, calendulaceum, kiusianum, mucronatum, yedoense
Common Pests:	Bark scale, caterpillars, lace bugs, leaf miners, nematodes, whiteflies	Common Diseases:	Powdery mildew, petal blight, rust, twig blight

For Beautiful Spring Color

When provided with the right location and growing conditions, azaleas are a natural, go-to choice for beautiful spring color.

With an unrestrained growth habit, they add architectural interest all year and look striking when paired with other plants that love the same conditions, like astilbe, lily of the valley, or trillium.

How do you folks use azaleas in the landscape? Drop us a line in the comments section below!

And for more information about growing flowering shrubs, check out these guides next:

If you’ve ever started seeds on your windowsill, you may have noticed that after the seedlings emerge, they lean into the window or towards the light source. This indicates that the plants are not receiving enough light. By far, the best option for light when starting seeds is to use grow lights. But there are so many types of grow lights – which are best?

The good news is you can start small. My first grow light setup was on an inexpensive folding table I bought at Walmart, and a 24″ suspended T5 grow light I bought on Amazon. I noticed a massive difference in my seedlings that first season – they grew taller with thicker stems and generally looked much healthier. Now I have a custom-made vertical rack of T5 grow lights and trays. With all that space, I start far too many plants each year, so I give a lot of seedlings away to friends and family each spring. But that’s a good problem to have.

What is a grow light?

A grow light is specialty indoor lighting of high intensity used to grow plants. They enhance foliar growth, produce thicker stems on seedlings, and produce the color and amount of light needed for flowering. Some grow lights are sold to light houseplants; some are used for indoor farming; others are for gardeners to start seeds and seedlings. This article will focus on the latter.

Buy on Amazon: Gardener’s Supply LED grow lights and racks. All you need to get started.

Why you need grow lights

The first thing to understand is why your seedlings need grow lights. It comes down to light intensity and color temperature (warm or cool).

Light intensity

You may have a sunny window in your home at which you can start seeds. But if you’re starting more than a few plants, you’ll quickly run out of space. Unlike houseplants, seedlings need direct, intense light, not just a bright room. You can get away with starting a few on your windowsill. But you’ll need grow lights when you get past 3 or 4 plants.

What happens if plants don’t get enough light?

When plants lack enough light in their early growth, they may not produce enough chlorophyll (green pigment), may become “leggy” (stems are long and thin and stretch toward the light source), may drop leaves, or may fail to produce flower buds. This leaves you with a less-than-vigorous seedling prone to disease or early die-off.

According to the University of Minnesota, “For seedlings that need to be planted very early, like peppers or tomatoes, more light is especially important. A seedling that is planted indoors just a couple of weeks before being transplanted outdoors can catch up outside, but a seedling that spends months indoors needs all of the light it can get to produce strong stems and to get a good head start on the growing season. For seedlings planted in a very bright window, a less intense supplemental grow light might be fine. But if you’re starting seeds in an area with little natural light, a higher intensity grow light will be a better fit.”

Color temperature

Sunlight contains a spectrum of colors called wavelengths: ultraviolet, violet, blue, green, yellow, orange, red, and infrared. Plants use more blue light in their early stages of development and more red light in their flowering and fruiting stages. This also varies by species – some will thrive in blue and green light, and others need lots of orange and red.

Grow lights produce a balance of red (warm) and blue (cool) light of high intensity and can be purchased in specific color wavelengths. “White” grow lights mimic sunlight by producing a full spectrum of red, blue, and green light, superb for producing vigorous seedlings of all types.

Plants use different wavelengths (colors) of light throughout their life cycles to perform photosynthesis – that’s why some grow lights are designed to emit colors that are more beneficial for plants in early stages of growth to give them an optimal start. Standard indoor lighting, like lamp bulbs, emit light wavelengths in a narrow band and are of low intensity. They typically will not be successful in growing most plants.

Types of grow lights for indoor seed starting

For seed starting and vigorous seedlings, most gardeners use T5 grow lights (a type of fluorescent bulb) or LED lights.

T5 grow lights

T5 grow lights are fluorescent bulbs and one of the most common types of light for starting vegetables, herbs, and flowers indoors. These are not like the fluorescent lights in an office building – T5s produce twice the intensity of light as standard fluorescent bulbs. Due to the heat they emit, they should be suspended at least one inch above the plants, to avoid foliage damage. T5 grow lights require a ballast to control their current and will only fit into a specific type of pin-type light socket.

Buy on Amazon: T5 grow lights

LED grow lights

LED lights are sold in arrays that contain bulbs that emit different colors. The array is in a casing that includes a heat sink and built-in fans. Each LED bulb can only produce a single, narrow range of color, so bulbs must be mixed together to provide the proper light spectrum for plant growth. On the other hand, this also allows manufacturers to customize each model’s color wavelength so that the gardeners can dial in more specific lighting requirements depending on the plants they are growing. LEDs use less energy than T5s, but produce a lot of heat, so they also must be suspended at least 12 inches above the plants.

Setting up grow lights is easier than it sounds, once you carve out a space and get the lights set up. This is a gardening decision you won’t regret as your seedlings will be more vigorous than growing them with light from a window.

Buy on Amazon: LED grow lights

References: Wikipedia: Grow Light, University Of Minnesota Extension, What types of grow lights should you use for starting seeds indoors?, University Of Maryland Extension, Grow Lights For Starting Seeds Indoors.

Raise your hand if you’ve neglected to prune your plants before.

My hand’s raised, in case you were wondering. It’s one of those things that can easily get away from you.

If you forget to water, your plants tell you pretty quickly that they’re upset. But pruning can be neglected for a long time before gardeners notice, at least in some cases.

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That’s especially true of camellias, which can go for years and years without trimming and they might still look totally fine.

Many cultivars maintain a fairly dense, clean look without any input from us.

But pruning is essential for maintaining healthy camellias and encouraging prolific blooming.

The difference between a plant smothered in colorful flowers and one that is just ho-hum is often the result of pruning.

Coming up, we’re going to talk about when, why, and how to trim your camellias. Here’s what to watch for:

Some people love to get out there and trim down their plants and some hate it.

I fall into the former camp simply because I like the gardening tasks that give me instant results.

But if you don’t adore the process, just remind yourself that you’ll be rewarded with a healthier plant and a prettier display next year.

Got those tools ready? Here we go!

When to Prune Camellias

Pruning is more about when not to do it rather than when to do it when it comes to camellias.

What you don’t want to do is start making cuts while the buds are forming or you won’t have any flowers that year.

Depending on the type, most camellias start budding in late summer and early fall.

The safest time to prune is right after all of the flowers have faded.

Keep in mind that if you have to cut the plant back severely, you might not have many flowers in the following year, but it’s necessary for its long-term health.

You’ll be rewarded with more blossoms than ever in the coming years after that.

If you see a branch that looks diseased, is broken, or is heavily infested with pests, feel free to remove that at any time of year.

Beyond that, you only need to prune every few years rather than doing so annually.

Reasons to Prune

Pruning isn’t just about making your plant look good, though that’s part of it. You should also prune to remove diseased or infested branches, or branches that are dead or dying.

What’s more, you want to prune to re-invigorate growth and to contain any shrubs that have become overgrown. Plus, trimming allows more light to enter the interior of the bush.

With each cut you make, you encourage branching and new growth, and that means more flowers and foliage to come.

How to Prune Your Plants

The first step is to make sure you’re starting with clean and sharp tools. You might need to use secateurs, loppers, shears, and saws, depending on how overgrown your plant is.

Now, start cutting. Remove any branches that stick out from the rest of the plant.

You can either cut them back in line with the rest of the growth or remove them entirely. Remove any scraggly or ugly growth. Any rubbing or crossing branches should be removed, too.

If you have a part of the plant that looks thin, cut a few branches back by a third or so to a point just in front of a leaf to encourage branching.

Alternatively, you can prune the newest growth back to the point where the previous year’s growth stops to encourage branching.

To reduce the size of a bush, go slowly and do it over several years. In the first year, cut the bush down to the height you want.

Next year, cut back any new growth to that height to produce branching. In the third year, shape the bush so it’s more aesthetically pleasing overall.

To create a tree, cut off all of the branches from the lower third but leave the rest of the plant untouched. In the second year, shape the crown.

Always cut branches back flush with the trunk when you remove them entirely. You don’t want to leave a stump.

Cut branches that you’re partially trimming back to just in front of a leaf bud. That’s where new growth will emerge.

Pruning Keeps Your Camellias in Good Shape

Despite the fact that camellias aren’t super high-maintenance plants, they do need some care to look their absolute best.

It’s not uncommon for plants to be infested with pests, scale in particular, if you neglect the pruning.

And those plants you’ve admired with the big, full displays? You can bet that they’ve been carefully trimmed every few years.

So what’s going on with your plants? What brought you to this guide? Did you inherit a few in the yard of a new home you purchased, like I did?

Maybe you planted a few new bushes and want to know how to keep them in shape? Share your experience in the comments section below.

Ready to continue your camellia journey? You can have a lot of fun with these plants! Here are a few more guides to get you started:

Here’s what’s in store:

Let’s find out how this ornamental shrub made its way to the American garden.

Cultivation and History

The history of forsythia as outlined by members of Harvard University’s Arnold Arboretum reveals popularity among gardeners progressing through Japan, China, Europe, and Korea, before becoming a botanical attraction and finally a garden staple in the United States.

Here in the Northeast where I live, it has naturalized to the point where many folks presume it is a native species.

In the late 1700s, a Dutch expedition of plant collectors travelled to Japan. One was Carl Thunberg, a student of the prominent Swedish botanist and taxonomist, Carl Linnaeus.

He brought back a shrub with arching branches and yellow flowers that was thought to be a lilac, and classified it as Syringa suspensa.

In the 1800s, it was decided that the plant was not actually a lilac, and the Forsythia genus was created.

The new species was called Forsythia suspensa, in honor of William Forsythe, a Scottish botanist who was a founding member of the Royal Horticultural Society, and Director of the Royal Garden at Kensington.

Dutch cultivation continued into the mid-1800s, when Scottish botanist Robert Fortune made a trip to China for the Horticultural Society of London.

He brought back a specimen classified as F. viridissima, with upright branches and yellow flowers tinged with green, that was found to be less cold hardy than F. suspensa.

In the late 1800s, a plant was discovered in a German botanical garden that appeared to be the result of an unintentional cross between the two known forsythia species. It was named Forsythia x intermedia, and would become the basis for many of today’s cultivated varieties.

At the end of the 19th century, a species was discovered growing in Albania. It had fewer flowers and less ornamental appeal than other types, and was named F. europaea. It remains the only known species not of Asian origin.

In the 1920s and ‘30s, new species were identified, including the exceptionally showy F. viridissima var. koreana.

By 1940, the cultivated variety F. viridissima ‘Bronxensis’ was on display in the New York Botanical Garden.

Today, common border forsythia, F. x intermedia, and its many named cultivars, are the most readily available plants on the market for the home gardener. They are hardy shrubs that tolerate a variety of soils and exhibit excellent drought and salt tolerance.

Propagation

Forsythia is easy to cultivate and grows fast.

Larger types may put on as much as 24 inches of new growth in one year. Brooke Beebe and Carolyn Summers from The Native Plant Center at Westchester Community College lists forsythia as a common invasive species, although the USDA does not make this designation.

Forsythia is stoloniferous, which means when a branch comes in contact with the soil it can take root and start another bush.

For beginning gardeners, or those who think they don’t have a green thumb, this is an amazing plant to experiment with to build confidence.

You’ll know what I mean when you read the following seven – yes seven – ways to get your own plant started:

• Bare Rootstock
• Burlap Bagged Rootstock with Soil
• By Division
• Layering
• From Seed
• Nursery Pots
• Stem Cuttings

Let’s take a look at each method.

Bare Rootstock

Online nurseries often supply bare rootstock because it is lightweight and cost effective to ship through the mail.

It consists of a rooted stem with all of the soil removed. When you receive it, in the fall, it needs to be watered and planted as soon as possible.

To do this, set the roots in a bucket of water while you work your garden soil to a depth of about 12 inches.

Amend the soil with compost, leaf mulch, or sand as needed to ensure good drainage.

Settle the bare roots into the soil so that the crown – where the roots and stem meet – is about an inch above ground level.

Backfill with soil and tamp it down. Water well. Tamp again to remove air pockets in the soil.

Burlap Bagged Rootstock with Soil

The roots and soil, with at least one established stem, are contained in a biodegradable burlap sack that should be planted directly into the ground.

This is the quickest, easiest method, but also the most expensive.

Prepare a bed of soil as described above.

Place the entire biodegradable bag into the soil so that the crown, where the stem meets the roots, is about an inch above ground level.

Backfill with soil and tamp it down. Water well, then tamp the soil again to remove air pockets.

Burlap bagged rootstock is best planted in the fall.

By Division

Dividing plants works very well with soft, herbaceous perennials, but it’s a little more difficult with woody shrubs.

The process, which is best done after blooming or in the fall, involves digging straight down through the roots of an established plant to separate it into two or more plants.

It requires strength to force the shovel down, break the roots, and lift the mound of soil and plant from the ground in order to transplant it elsewhere.

In addition, you may have to trim down some stiff old canes to be able to work your shovel into the plant to do the job.

For more information on this process, see our guide to dividing perennials.

Once you have a section divided, transplant it to the desired location.

Prepare the soil as described above.

Set the plant into the soil so that the crown is about an inch above ground level.

Backfill with soil and tamp it down, water well, and then tamp again to remove any air pockets.

From Seed

Growing forsythia from seed is generally not recommended, as viability and germination rates are uncertain. Cultivated varieties, especially hybrids, can’t be counted on to replicate the quality or traits of a parent plant.

If you do decide to sow seeds, here’s how to do it:

You may start seeds indoors six to eight weeks before the last average frost date, or direct sow them after the date has passed.

Sow seeds quarter of an inch deep in potting soil and put them in a warm place, out of direct sunshine.

Keep them moist, but not soggy.

Thin the seedlings to one per starter pot or egg carton cell, and transplant them outdoors when they have at least two sets of true leaves.

Place them in soil that has been prepared as above. The soil in the starter pot should be level with the ground soil.

Space the seedlings according to their mature dimensions. Plant dwarf varieties one to two feet apart, moderately-sized hedge plants four to six feet apart, and the largest varieties eight to 10 feet apart.

Tamp the soil and water gently, but thoroughly.

Layering

Layering is a way to make a new plant by bending the stem of an established plant to the ground and letting it take root.

This process is usually done in the spring or early summer.

Choose a long branch that bends easily. Look for a fresh, young cane with new growth.

Bend it to the ground.

Scrape about an inch of the stem, eight to 12 inches from the tip, where it touches the soil to break its cortex, the outer layer.

Make a shallow depression, about 1 inch deep, in the soil beneath the bent, scraped stem.

Push the stem gently into the depression and cover with soil

Weigh the soil down over the stem with a small rock or brick, and keep the soil moist, but not waterlogged.

In the fall, provided new growth appears, the roots will have formed and you may detach the new plant from its mother by cutting the stem that joins them.

If you left your layering a little bit late, and you see no signs of fresh growth, leave it to overwinter and detach and transplant the following spring.

Dig the new plant up, going down about 10 inches, and leaving a generous amount of soil attached.

Transplant it to a location of your choice, where you have prepared the soil as described above.

Place it in the ground so that the soil clinging to the roots is even with the ground.

Backfill and tamp the soil down. Water well, and tamp again to remove air pockets.

Nursery Pots

Garden centers often have pots ranging from quart to gallon sizes that contain one or more rooted stems in potting medium.

The stems may be short or tall, depending upon their age, and whether or not they have been pruned.

Work the soil as described above.

Unpot the plant and set it down so that the pot soil is at ground level.

Backfill with soil and tamp it down, water well, and tamp again to remove any pockets of air.

Stem Cuttings

Stems placed directly into the ground can sprout roots, especially with a little help from some powdered rooting hormone. For best results, take stem cuttings in the spring.

Cut a fresh, green cane at its point of origin, just above the soil line.

Cut the stem into sections of about six inches long, and strip the leaves from the bottom three inches of each section. Remember to keep the cuttings oriented the same way as they were growing.

Dip the bottom cut end of each individual cutting into rooting hormone powder.

Use a long, narrow hand weeding tool, like you use for digging dandelions, to make a narrow hole a little wider than a cane and about three inches deep.

Place a cutting into it and tamp the soil tightly around the stem before watering.

New growth is evidence of successful root formation and should appear within four to six weeks.

Read our full guide to forsythia propagation here.

How to Grow

There are two good times to plant forsythia – after it blooms, and just prior to winter dormancy.

Once you’ve decided on a method of propagation, you need to find a location for your new shrub.

Some dwarf selections are two feet tall and wide, while some full-size varieties top out at eight to 10 feet tall and 10 to 12 feet wide. Be sure to take mature dimensions into account when deciding on a location.

Choose a site with full sun. It is possible to grow forsythia in part shade, but you may have fewer blossoms.

Organically-rich soil is best, but even clay is okay, provided it drains well. To improve drainage, incorporate leaf mulch or sand to loosen it up. The ideal pH may vary from a slightly acidic 6.5 to a slightly alkaline 7.5.

If you want to know your soil’s characteristics with certainty, you may contact the local extension of a land grant university about conducting a soil test.

In the absence of a soaking rain, water each week during the growing season. Too much or too little water may cause yellowing of the leaves.

Growing Tips

Forsythia is a favorite of mine. When I see the buds popping, I get excited for the gardening days ahead.

Here are three tips for success:

• Use mature dimensions to guide your site selection. If you don’t know what variety you have, plant it as a stand-alone specimen and let it reveal its size over the next few years.
• You’ll have the showiest flowers in a location with full sun, but if all you’ve got is part shade, you should still have enough to enjoy.
• Soil composition may vary from organically-rich to clay, but good drainage is essential. Amend as needed to improve drainage and prevent standing water, which can cause root rot.

Pruning and Maintenance

As mentioned, different forsythia varieties are available in sizes ranging from 12 inches to 10 feet. Take care to allow room for mature dimensions when choosing planting sites.

That being said, you have two options with this fast-growing shrub:

Let it grow naturally, unimpeded and untrimmed.

Prune it to a certain height and width, to fit neatly into a desired space, like a hedge.

The best time to prune is immediately after flowering. This is because flower buds begin to form soon after the blossoms drop, and by summer’s end, they are in place for next year.

If you were to prune at any other time, you’d cut them off and have few to no flowers the following spring.

Now that you know when to prune, let me say that even if you choose a natural style, you should still prune occasionally.

Remove dead or damaged stems to improve appearance and maintain good plant health.

Restore youthful vigor to older bushes by randomly cutting one-third of the old wood stems to the ground every three years or so.

Hedges are a bit trickier.

Prune deeply after flowering to maintain the desired shape. Pruning periodically throughout the growing season is not an option.

This is because forsythia begins to set next spring’s buds soon after flowering. Pruning too late or too often is likely to cause poor flowering next bloom time.

As for cutting techniques, pruning to the ground encourages the growth of long, airy canes, and is well-suited to a rounded mound with arching branches.

Conversely, cutting mid-stem above a pair of leaves results in compact, branching growth more suited to well-controlled, but naturalistic border shrubs.

You may want to trim the lower branches to prevent self-layering, as it can create a ground cover you may or may not want.

As for sharply manicured hedges, take care not to let the center of the shrub die. Constantly lopping off the top and sides tends to foster tip growth, but the middle receives little if any sun, and the wood there may become hard and lifeless.

Promote fresh inner growth by periodically cutting down a few hardwood stems at their point of origin, to be replaced by fresh growth.

Learn more about pruning forsythia shrubs here.

Other forsythia maintenance includes the option to fertilize once just before bloom time with a well-balanced, all-purpose, slow-release fertilizer, per package instructions.

You may also apply a layer of mulch in the spring and/or fall. It helps with moisture retention and inhibits the growth of weeds. Place it about six inches out from the roots to avoid rotting.

It’s actually Korean Ablelialeaf, Abeliophyllum distichum, a fragrant spring flower that is also in the olive family and grows and looks very much like forsythia.

Managing Pests and Disease

As a non-native plant, forsythia is less prone to infestation by local insect pests and the diseases they carry.

It is one of the rare plants that is unaffected by black walnut Juglone toxicity, deer, or Japanese beetles.

Adequate drainage deters water-loving pests, such as snails and slugs, and inhibits root rot.

Diligent weeding, or the application of weed-inhibiting mulch six inches from the stems, also helps keep pests away.

However, even with best practices, there are a couple of issues that may arise while growing this shrub.

While pests aren’t usually a problem, there are some diseases to be aware of, including:

Galls

If you notice knob-like clusters of nodules on the stems of your plants, they may be galls.

It can be difficult for the home gardener to identify the exact cause.

It could be stem gall caused by the Phomopsis fungus, or crown gall caused by Agrobacterium tumefaciens – or a genetic deficit.

Whatever the cause, these have the potential to disfigure and weaken plants. The only solution is to cut off the affected branches.

Read more about managing galls on forsythia here.

Leaf Spot

Unsightly brown or black spots on the foliage may be caused by a fungus called Anthracnose. It can thrive in plants that are very dense, as the result of a buildup of humidity.

Space plants well to maintain good airflow.

If you have dense plantings, prune occasionally to allow air to penetrate the center of plants. And, don’t forget the importance of good drainage.

Pinch off affected leaves. Apply a fungicide to inhibit further damage.

Root Rot

This is a condition caused by microorganisms called Phytophthora that resemble fungi.

They may prey on the roots and foliage of woody plants, especially when conditions are too wet. Telltale signs are saturated ground, stunted growth, wilting, and rotting roots.

Avoid this condition by planting in soil with proper drainage and maintaining adequate airflow.

There is no treatment and affected plants must be dug up and destroyed. Do not throw infected plant matter on the compost pile, to avoid further spread.

Twig Blight

Twig blight, another problem that may arise from too much moisture, is caused by a fungus called Sclerotinia sclerotiorum.

It appears as a white coating on the outside of the stems. They may also appear black on the inside.

Avoid it with proper drainage and good airflow.

Remove affected branches and apply fungicide. Inhibit its spread by pruning to increase airflow, and always water at the soil level.

Always remember to sanitize cutting tools after removing stems that are damaged by pests or disease.

Best Uses

Flowering plants for the early spring garden all pair well with vibrant forsythia.

From hellebores and snowdrop to tulip and hyacinth, it’s the perfect backdrop to a panorama of multicolor blooms.

Use a large variety as a stand-alone specimen in a garden island of its own.

Or, plant a series of bushes along fences and property perimeters, where birds and small wildlife can take refuge.

Smaller types play well in mixed perennial and bulb beds and borders, where they add bold color in spring and punctuate summer plantings with their attractive, lance-like, serrated green leaves.

Create mixed shrub plantings with early rhododendron, flowering quince, and pussy willow, for a pretty place to take spring holiday photos with the family.

A versatile shrub that grows fast is a gardener’s best friend, when it comes to blocking an undesirable view or creating a privacy screen for the enjoyment of outdoor space.

You’re sure to find multiple attractive uses for it in your garden scheme.

Quick Reference Growing Guide

Plant Type:	Woody shrub	Flower / Foliage Color:	Yellow; green to bronze
Native to:	Asia, Europe	Maintenance:	Low
Hardiness (USDA Zone):	5-8	Soil Type:	Average to organically rich
Bloom Time / Season:	Spring	Soil pH:	6.5-7.5
Exposure:	Full sun	Soil Drainage:	Well-draining
Spacing:	1-2 feet (dwarf); 4-6 feet (close hedging, medium-full size); 8-10 feet (full-size specimens)	Attracts:	Pollinators, including long-tongued bees and hummingbirds
Growth Rate:	Fast	Companion Planting:	Early rhododendron, flowering quince, hellebore, pussy willow, spring bulb flowers
Height:	2-10 feet	Uses:	Cut flower, foundation (small types), hedge, mass, mixed shrub border, privacy screen, specimen, perimeter
Spread:	2-12 feet	Family:	Oleaceae
Tolerance:	Black walnut, clay, deer, drought, Japanese beetles, part shade, pollution, salt	Subfamily:	Forsythieae
Water Needs:	Moderate	Genus:	Forsythia
Pests & Diseases:	Galls, leaf spot, root rot, twig blight	Species:	Various

Your Forsythia, Your Way

Transitional flowers like forsythia are as bold as they are beautiful.

They burst open on a false-spring day only to find themselves laden with snow the next. But no matter, they cling hopefully for two weeks or more, before reluctantly yielding to a profusion of serrated green foliage.

In the fall, many varieties bronze to shades of gold and burgundy, often remaining attached well into winter, with next spring’s swollen buds already visible.

It’s time to introduce a bush or two of one of spring’s brightest and most cheerful heralds to your landscape.

Whether you cultivate tousled mounds or manicured hedges, you can count on this vigorous plant to deliver for many years to come.

Are you growing forsythia in your garden? Let us know in the comments below.

If you’re looking for more flowering shrubs to grow in your garden you may enjoy reading the following:

How to grow Campanula (kam-pan-u-la)

From the Latin campanula, a little bell, hence the common name, Bellflower (Campanulaceae). A large genus of annuals, biennials and perennials for growing in the border, wild garden, rock garden and greenhouse; widely distributed over the Northern Hemisphere.

Border species cultivated C. x burghaltii, 2-i feet, large lavender bells, June and July, sandy soil. C. carpatica, 9 inches, edging plant, also rock garden, flowers blue, July and August, plant in the autumn before leaves die down, avoiding dormant season; vars. `Ditton Blue’, 6 inches, indigo; ‘Harvest Moon’, violet-blue; ‘Queen of Somerville’, 15 inches, pale blue; turbinata, 6 inches, purple-blue; turbinata pallida, 6 inches, china-blue; ‘White Star’, 1 foot. C. grandis (syn. C. • latiloba), 3 feet, sturdy, rather stiff growth, flowers close-set in spikes, open flat, blue, June and July, creeping root-stock, lift every third year, grows in shade. C. lactiflora, the finest of the bellflowers, 4-5 feet, establishes well in good moist soil, stem erect, covered with foliage, branching to trusses of lavender flowers, July and August; vars. ‘Loddon Anna’, pale pink; ‘Pritchard’s Variety’, deep blue; ‘Pouffe’, 1 foot, dwarf variety, light blue. C. latifolia, 2 feet, blue, June to August, easy to grow, tolerates shade; vars. alba, white flowers; ‘Brantwood’, 4 feet, violet-purple; macrantha, deep violet flowers, this species sometimes attracts blackfly. C. persicifolia, the peach-leaved bellflower, 2-i-3 feet, best species to grow in the shade, sends out stolons and forms rosettes of leaves from which the wiry flowering stem grows, producing lavender flowers in June and July; vars. ‘Fleur de Neige’, 2 feet, semi-double white; ‘Snowdrift’, single white; ‘Telham Beauty’, large, single, lavender-blue; ‘Wedgwood Blue’; Wirral Belle’, good double deep blue; also mixed ‘Giant Hybrids’. C. rotundifolia, 3-4 inches, the English harebell and Scottish bluebell, well-known on chalk and light soils, bears single nodding delicate flowers, July and August; var. olympica, 9 inches, lavender-blue, June to September. C. sarmatica, 1i feet, spikes of pale blue flowers, July, greyish leaves.

Rock garden

These are mainly dwarf species which require a gritty, well-drained soil and an open, sunny position, except where noted. All are summer-flowering unless otherwise stated. C. abietina, 6 inches, violet. C. alliariaefolia, 2 feet, white. C. arvatica, 3 inches, deep violet, needs scree conditions; var. alba, white. C. aucheri, 4-6 inches, tufted habit, deep purple, early. C. bellidifolia, 4 inches, purplish blue. C. calaminthifolia, prostrate, grey leaves, soft blue flowers, alpine house. C. carpatica (as border species). C. cochlearifolia (syn. C. pusilla), 3 inches, bright blue; vars. alba, white ; ‘Jewel’ 4 inches, large, blue ; pallida, pale blue. C. elatines, 6 inches, purple blue. C. formaneckiana, 15 inches, silver-grey leaves, pale blue or white flowers, monocarpic, best in the alpine house. C. garganica, 4 inches, blue, good wall plant; vars. hirsuta, light blue, hairy leaves, May onwards; ‘W. H. Paine’, dark blue, white centres. C. hallii, 4 inches, white. C. herzegovinensis nana, 1 inch, deep blue. C. jenkinsae, 6 inches, white. C. kemmulariae, 9-12 inches, mauve-blue. C. linifolia, 9 inches, purple. C. nitida (syn. C. planiflora), 9 inches, blue; var. alba, 6 inches, white. C. portenschlagiana (syn. C. muralis) 6 inches, trailing, purple, good wall plant. C. poscharskyana, 6 inches, powder blue, walls or banks; var. lilacina, lilac. C. pulla, 4 inches, violet, likes limy soil. C. raddeana, 1 foot, deep violet. C. raineri, 1 inch, china-blue, scree plant. C. sarmatica, 9 inches, grey-blue leaves and flowers. C. saxifraga, 4 inches, deep purple. C. speciosa, 9 inches, purple blue. C. stansfieldii, 4 inches, violet. C. tridentata, 4-6 inches, deep blue. C. valdensis, 6 inches, grey leaves, violet flowers. C. warleyensis, 3 inches, blue, double.

Rock garden cultivars ‘Birch Hybrid’ (C. portenschlagiana x C. poscharskyana), 9 inches, purple blue; ‘G. F. Wilson’, 4 inches, violet-blue; ‘Patience Bell’, 3-4 inches, rich blue; ‘Profusion’, 4-5 inches, blue; ‘R. B. Loder’, semi-double, mid-blue.

Wild garden

The growth of these is too rampant for the border. C. barbata, 1 foot, clear pale blue flowers. C. glomerata, native plant, 1 feet, head of closely-packed deep purple flowers, June to August; vars. acaulis, 6 inches, violet-blue flowers; dahurica, 1 foot, violet; superba, 1 foot, purple. C. rapunculoides, 5 feet, drooping flowers, deep blue, spreads rapidly. C. thyrsoides, 1 foot, yellow bells in closely-packed spike, summer, monocarpic. C. trachelium, 2 feet, purple-blue flowers on erect stems June and July.

Greenhouse

C. pyramidalis, the chimney bellflower, a biennial, 4-5 feet, spectacular, covered with white or lavender flowers. C. isophylla, a trailing plant for hanging baskets or edge of greenhouse staging, lilac-blue flowers, summer; vars. alba, white flowers, mayi, woolly variegated leaves.

Biennial

C. medium, Canterbury bell, 2i feet, in shades of pink and blue, and also white forms; vars. calycanthema, the cup-and-saucer type; fore pleno, double, 3 feet, with white, blue or pink flowers. Cultivars include ‘Dean’s Hybrids’ with single or double flowers.

Annual

C. ramosissima, 6-12 inches, pale blue to violet, this is not often grown but may be used to fill gaps in borders. Sow seed in early April and thin seedlings to 4-6 inches apart.

Cultivation:

Border

Many of the border campanulas may be grown in partial shade; most like a well-cultivated soil. Plant in spring or autumn. Stake tall species. They are propagated by seed sown in pans in very fine compost, with no covering of soil, put in a shaded frame. Prick out seedlings and harden them off before planting out. Propagate plants with creeping roots by division in autumn.

Rock garden

Propagate these kinds by seed sown in March in frames, by division in spring, or by cuttings after flowering.

Wild garden

Plant out kinds suitable for the wild garden in spring or autumn, in sun or partial shade. Propagate them by seed or division as for border kinds.

Biennial

Seed of C. pyramidalis is sown in pans in a cold frame in May and the seedlings potted up singly. Pot on until they are finally in 8-inch pots. Grow them in cool conditions, giving them ample ventilation. Plants may also be used out-of-doors in the border. Canterbury bells (C. medium) are raised in a shady site from seed sown in May or June. The bed should have a very fine tilth, and seed drills should be shallow; or sow in boxes in finely sieved soil and put the boxes in a frame, transplant seedlings to a nursery bed 6 inches apart. Set out in autumn where the plants are to flower. having added lime to the soil. C. isophylla and its varieties are propagated by cuttings taken in early summer and rooted in a greenhouse propagating frame. Potting compost is a suitable growing medium; the plant does best in a cold greenhouse or conservatory as it is nearly hardy and, indeed, may survive out of doors in sheltered gardens. It may be used for planting up hanging baskets intended for outdoor decoration in summer.

Ferula spp.

There are certain distinctive flavors that define regional cuisine for me.

I can’t even imagine my favorite Italian dishes without basil. Japanese dishes would lose something special without shiso.

When it comes to South Indian food, asafetida is the flavor that I can’t imagine cooking without.

Asafetida is another name for species in the Ferula genus. It’s also what we call the spice derived from the roots of the plant.

Any of the species within this genus might be called asafetida, but it usually refers to the three or four species that are most commonly used to make the spice.

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These plants aren’t common in the home garden. I don’t know if that’s because the plant itself has an unpleasant odor or if it’s because it’s a challenge to grow. Maybe it’s a combination of both.

Whatever the reason, it’s a fun gardening project with a massive payoff if you’re a fan of asafetida in your cooking.

If you’re unfamiliar with the spice, before you cook it, asafetida has a sulfurous, funky scent and flavor.

But once you temper it with a bit of heat, it mellows to an onion-like pungency that has a unique taste impossible to recreate with anything else.

You can grow this pretty, if temperamental, plant at home and even make your own spice from the root. Let’s get to know asafetida. To do that, we’re going to discuss the following:

Whether you’re into growing unusual plants or you just really, really love cooking with hing, this guide can help you make this herb thrive.

Just because it’s fussy doesn’t mean it’s impossible. Have some faith and get those recipes ready.

What Is Asafetida?

Asafetida is the powdered spice made from the dried resin of the roots and rhizomes of several species in the Ferula genus, including F. foetida, F. assa-foetida, F. alliacea, S. sinkiangensis, F. fukanensis, and F. latisecta.

This dried resin is a gum latex that can be ground up into a powder, which is how most people purchase it for use in cooking.

The plants themselves look like giant fennel and can grow up to seven feet tall. Unsurprisingly, asafetida is related to fennel and others in the Umbelliferae family, like carrots, parsley, and dill.

When in bloom, asafetida produces clusters of small yellow and white flowers in the summer that appear at the end of the tall, thick stems, and there can be six or seven stems per plant. It’s a big, bold, dramatic option for the garden.

Self-fertile, asafetida doesn’t need any friends to produce seeds. These plants are also monocarpic, and once mature, bloom only once.

The spice produced from the resin is known as hing in Hindi, and it’s also been referred to as the food of the gods or devil’s dung (merde du diable in French). It may also be spelled asafoetida.

Whether you spell it with or without the “o,” it’s pronounced “a-suh-feh-tee-duh,” with the stress on the third syllable. The name translates from Latin to mean stinking resin in English.

The resin has a sulfurous, bitter, oniony scent and flavor that some people find downright offensive. The first time I got a whiff, I thought I was smelling cabbage and raw onions left in a rotten compost pile in the hot summer sun.

I had bought a container at the Indian market and tossed it into the trunk of my car, and I tell you, when I opened the trunk when I got home, I thought something had died. It’s right there in the name: “fetid.”

But used right, it adds umami and a savory flavor, particularly to vegetarian dishes. I was worried that I’d bought the wrong thing, but I just didn’t know that the delicious food I’d tasted used cooked asafetida, which has a different flavor from the raw stuff.

Once the spice is heated up in some oil, it develops a more mellow, savory flavor reminiscent of onions.

Cooking breaks down the 2-butyl 1-propenyl disulfide and other disulfides in the resin that cause the pungent scent, leaving the oniony diallyl sulfide behind.

For that reason, it can be used as a substitute for onions and garlic by individuals with intolerances or allergies to alliums, and by practitioners of religions that don’t allow consumption of root plants.

You can also buy hing as a solid lump or granules of dried resin, or as powder mixed with wheat or rice flour. The lumps or granules are heated and then crushed into a powder or small chips are used in cooking.

It’s not just the spice that has a pungent scent. The plant does too, to a lesser degree.

It’s definitely concentrated in the roots, but if you accidentally crush a leaf, you might find yourself heading in the opposite direction.

Cultivation and History

Asafetida is native to and continues to grow wild in modern Afghanistan, Kazakhstan, Uzbekistan, Tajikistan, Turkmenistan, Pakistan, China, Russia, and Iran.

Ferula was brought to Europe as early as 300 B.C. during one of Alexander the Great’s expeditions, but it didn’t catch on as it did in India.

If it was used, it was treated as a medicine. It was first imported to India around 600 B.C., where it was put to good use in both Ayurvedic medicine and as an ingredient in cooking.

Today, most of the stuff you’ll find at the store is derived from wild plants harvested for the purpose of making the spice. It’s difficult to cultivate asafetida, and there’s lots of it growing wild in its native range.

Nonetheless, cultivation efforts have begun in recent years in India.

You can grow it as an annual in USDA Zones 3 to 7 and as a perennial in Zones 7 (with protection) to 11, though this range may vary a bit depending on the species.

If you grow it as an annual, you won’t be able to harvest the resin since the roots won’t have enough time to mature, but you can use the leaves and stems.

Propagation

Asafetida doesn’t transplant well and it responds poorly to division.

It has a long taproot that doesn’t like being disturbed. I’ve never seen a seedling for sale, online or in person. That leaves seeds available to us.

If you decide to start seeds indoors, sow them in four-inch biodegradable containers, like those made by CowPots.

These will biodegrade into the soil when you transplant, so you won’t disturb the young roots by removing the seedling from its pot.

CowPots Biodegradable Pots

Grab yourself a pack of 12, 180, or 450 pots at Arbico Organics.

They’re handy for more than just starting plants with sensitive taproots. They’re great for most seedlings because they reduce the risk of transplant shock.

If you start seeds indoors, you’ll need to stratify them for eight weeks before you sow them, so plan ahead. Your goal should be to plant outdoors after the last predicted frost date.

To do this, moisten some sand in a resealable container or bag and mix the seeds into the sand.

Seal it and keep the container in the refrigerator for eight weeks. Make sure the sand stays moist throughout this period.

You can propagate the seed without stratifying first, but it improves germination rates. If you’re feeling lazy, just start twice as many seeds as you need and hope for the best.

Sow in seed-starting medium and cover the seeds with a quarter-inch of soil. Water well and place somewhere that receives eight hours of light per day. Or, place them under artificial grow lights.

It’s time to move containers outdoors to harden them off once the last predicted frost date has passed in the spring. Then you can plant the seedlings in the ground.

To harden seedlings off, place the pots in a protected spot with direct sun exposure for an hour or so, then bring the pots back indoors. Add an hour each day for the next week. Now, it’s time to transplant.

Dig a hole twice as wide and deep as the container that the seedling is growing in and gently place the seedling, biodegradable pot and all, in the soil.

Firm up the soil around the pot. You want the soil in the pot to be about the same height as the surrounding soil, so you might have some of the lip of the pot poking up over the soil.

If you opt to direct sow seeds outdoors, you can forego the artificial cold stratification and sow in the fall.

Place seeds about 18 inches apart and a quarter inch deep. Water well but do so gently so you don’t displace the seeds.

You should keep the soil moist until the seeds germinate, which takes several weeks, and continue to maintain soil moisture until the seedlings are about three inches tall.

Then you can cut back on water, and allow the surface to dry out between watering.

How to Grow

Ferula grows best in a cold, arid, sunny climate. While it’s a fussy plant, in the right climate, it will hunker down and stubbornly grow (and spread) without any interference from us.

But when the weather takes a turn that these plants don’t like, they go dormant. That’s why they grow so slowly.

It’s an ongoing cycle of dormancy, resurgence, dormancy, and resurgence. But if you can manage the environment as best you can, you can speed things up.

Asafetida needs full sun, but it doesn’t like heat. Don’t be tempted to grow it in partial shade to keep it cool. It actually needs full sun.

In the wild, you’ll find most species growing in sandy or loamy soil in full sun.

The quickest way to get rid of asafetida is to plant it somewhere with heavy, poorly-draining soil. Your soil should have a pH around 6.5 to 7.5.

Don’t overwater these plants!

Drought-tolerant once established, that long tap root will reach down into the ground to find water, and you’re more likely to hurt it by overwatering rather than underwatering.

If you stick your finger into the soil about three inches deep around a plant that is a foot tall or taller, you should barely feel any moisture at your fingertip before you add more water.

Don’t bother fertilizing. Remember, the spice typically comes from wild specimens, and no one is out there feeding them.

Asafetida prefers cool conditions and it’s time to start taking proactive measures any time the temperature begins to rise above 70°F. On hot days, spray the foliage with water to keep plants cool and cover them temporarily with shade cloth.

Remember, your ferula won’t die, it will just go dormant in adverse conditions. That means it will stop growing, or it might even die back temporarily. The more often the plant goes dormant, the longer it takes to mature.

Similarly, cold temperatures below 35°F will also signal the plant to go dormant. And anything below 15°F can kill these plants.

Wrap your plants in burlap during freezing weather and heap lots of organic mulch on the ground around them in the winter to provide insulation to the roots.

All this is to say that people gardening in places like the Pacific Northwest, Ireland, and the United Kingdom will be able to grow asafetida without many issues. Outside of those places, it’s going to take a little extra work.

Growing Tips

• Plant in full sun.
• Water only when the top 3 inches of soil dries out.
• Protect plants from heat and cold.

Maintenance

Asafetida is particularly awesome because you don’t have to do any maintenance.

If a leaf is broken or looks diseased, go ahead and cut it off. Same with any broken stems.

If the plant gets a little top-heavy and starts tipping over, you can brace it with some stakes for support.

Otherwise, that’s about it!

If you’re in Zone 7, you will want to heap two inches of natural mulch like leaves or shredded hardwood over the soil. Cover the plant with frost cloth if you have a surprise late spring frost.

Species to Select

Most species look so similar that chemical analysis is the only way to tell one from another with certainty. But some stand out because of their size or their native range.

Alliacea

Native to Iran, this plant has similar characteristics to F. foetida and can be grown and used just like the more common species. It’s often confused with F. foetida in the wild.

Assa-foetida

This species is common in Iran but less common outside of the country.

It’s native to southern Iran, though not all Ferula plants growing in the region are necessarily F. assa-foetida. It has naturalized in Turkmenistan, Uzbekistan, Libya, India, Nepal, and Laos.

Communis

This species is also known as giant fennel because it grows up to nine feet tall. It’s more cold tolerant than other species, as well.

Foetida

Chances are, if you’ve used asafetida to ramp up your cooking, it was this species.

It’s native to Turkmenistan, Iran, Afghanistan, Pakistan, Uzbekistan, Tajikistan, and Kazakhstan and is a bit smaller than some other species. It only grows to about three feet tall.

Gummosa

Native to Turkey, Russia, and Iran, this species, commonly known as galbanum, grows to about three feet tall.

It’s also much more cold-hardy than most species and it can grow as far north as Zone 5 in the US.

The compromise for cold-region growers is that the root of this species is much milder. But actually, maybe that’s a good thing.

You won’t have to warn the neighbors every time you open up the jar in your spice cabinet! The resin has a flavor like celery and onion when it’s cooked.

Moschata

Another huge species (syn. F. sumbul) that grows up to nine feet tall, “musk root” isn’t cold-tolerant at all. Don’t even bother growing it north of Zone 8!

It’s native to Kazakhstan, China, and Tibet, and is primarily used for medicinal and perfumery purposes though you can also use it to flavor food.

Sinkiangensis

This species is endemic to China, and the resin from the roots is usually sold as a medicinal product. Sadly, its native range is rapidly diminishing.

Managing Pests and Disease

One of the benefits of growing an uncommon species outside of its native range, and one that has an extremely unpleasant scent, is that pests avoid it.

The species of pests and pathogens that have evolved to feed on Ferula don’t, for the most part, live in North or South America.

The common pests that do live on those continents don’t seem to have much taste for the plant, much like humans who aren’t familiar with how to make this plant shine.

In fact, if you want to deter herbivores like voles, rabbits, and deer, plant ferula around your garden.

These animals will steer well clear of the plants. Seriously! A tight line of plants will work just as well as a fence to keep critters away.

Your biggest challenges are going to be refraining from overwatering and protecting this plant from high heat or extreme cold.

Overwatering is a quick route to root rot, which can be a real problem since it’s the root we’re after.

Harvesting

Harvest the leaves as needed using scissors, but don’t remove more than a quarter of the plant at a time. The shoots can also be harvested when they’re young. Just slice them off at the ground level.

The root should only be harvested after the plant is about four years old but before it has flowered.

These plants take up to seven years to mature, but once they do flower, they die shortly afterwards. You want to find that sweet spot between too young and flowering.

Preserving

If you want to give making the powdered spice a go, harvest the roots of a plant that hasn’t flowered.

Clean the roots and make numerous cuts all around the root. Place the root on a baking sheet and place it in a cool, dry, protected area.

The milky resin will ooze out of the root over the next few weeks, turning reddish-brown as it hardens.

After about six weeks, scrape off the resin. Once you extract the resin, the roots are pretty tasteless and tough. Toss them in the compost.

You can store the chunks, but be careful how you do it.

These smell extremely pungent and they will taint any other nearby spices. Store them in a sealed container placed inside a second sealed container.

You can also grind the chunks into powder.

Keep in mind that the resulting powder will be stronger than most of the stuff you can buy in stores, since the store bought stuff is usually mixed with flour or other agents to preserve it or keep it from clumping.

To keep the spice fresh, only grind as much as you need each time you use it.

Store the powder in a sealed jar, or better yet, a sealed jar placed inside a sealed bag.

After you use the spice, close and wipe the outside of the container and put it in the bag, or you risk allowing the scent to permeate the rest of the cabinet.

Recipes and Cooking Ideas

If you cook with the powder, you probably already know that it’s pungent. This isn’t a spice that you want to sprinkle liberally like salt over your finished dish.

For those unfamiliar with the spice, you should mix it in with some heated fat or other cooking liquid and let it dissolve into it. Then add the rest of your ingredients.

This method of tempering spices in hot ghee or oil is known as tarka.

If you want something easy to start with, try mixing a pinch of the spice to taste with three tablespoons of butter that you’ve melted and heat it up over the stove.

Let the butter and asafetida cook for a few minutes so it’s fully dissolved and incorporated, but don’t let the spice turn black or the butter start to smoke.

Then, add some ground cumin to taste, around a teaspoon, and pour this mixture over a pound and a half of roasted potatoes. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

You can also use carrots or parsnips instead of or in addition to potatoes.

Look for recipes where a garlicky, oniony addition would go well, and try substituting asafetida.

For instance, just imagine this sweet potato and tatsoi soup with chickpeas from our sister site Foodal with some asafetida. My mouth’s watering just thinking about it.

It’s also fantastic with just about any kind of lentils, legumes, or rice. And of course, it’s an essential part of countless Indian meals. Masoor dal, khaman dhokla, savory dosas… the list goes on and on.

The plant’s cabbage-like leaves are edible, as are the young shoots. The raw plant is bitter and pungent, but it is considered a delicacy. The leaves and shoots can also be boiled or roasted, which removes some of the bitterness.

You can also eat the roots sliced and cooked rather than using them to extract the resin. Steep the roots in water for three minutes to remove the bitterness.

Quick Reference Growing Guide

Plant Type:	Herbaceous, short-lived perennial	Water Needs:	Low
Native to:	Asia, Middle East	Tolerance:	Drought, frost
Hardiness (USDA Zone):	3-7 (annual), 8-11 (perennial)	Maintenance:	Low
Season:	Summer blossoms	Soil Type:	Sandy, loamy
Exposure:	Full sun	Soil pH:	6.5-7.5
Time to Maturity:	Up to 7 years	Soil Drainage:	Well-draining
Spacing:	18 inches	Companion Planting:	Lemon verbena, lovage, mace
Planting Depth:	1/4 inch (seeds)	Avoid Planting With:	Species in the Umbelliferae family
Height:	Up to 9 feet	Order:	Apiales
Spread:	Up to 3 feet	Family:	Apiaceae
Growth Rate:	Slow	Genus:	Ferula
Common Pests and Diseases:	Local pests within native range; root rot	Species:	Alliacea, assa-foetida, communis, foetida, fukanensis, gummosa, latisecta, moschata, sinkiangensis

The Devil’s Dung and the Food of the Gods

When it comes to temperature and water, sure, ferula is a little fussy. But on the bright side, pests and diseases are extremely unlikely to come to call.

Deer and rabbits? Nah, no problem. Plus, this plant isn’t likely to die on you if you don’t give it the perfect environment. It will just take a nap and grow slower than you might like.

Okay, let’s talk turkey… and chicken, and fish, and lentils, and rice. Let me in on all the marvelous ways you’re going to use up your tasty plant. Share your ideas and recipes in the comments.

I hope this guide set you on the path to growing your own asafetida. I know you’re going to succeed.

While you wait for that slow grower to mature, you might be interested in a few of our other guides to growing kitchen spices:

This is useful not only in planting beautiful flowers or herbs, but for shallow-rooted plants like lettuce as well.

Most boxes range from four to 12 inches deep and 12 to 48 inches in length, although you may find some larger than this.

In general, a six- to eight-inch-deep box is perfectly adequate for growing lettuce.

The length and width will depend on the number of plants you wish to grow and the variety that you choose as well as the space you have available.

Self-Watering Window Box

This 23-inch self-watering box from Gardener’s Supply Company is a good choice for potting two to four average-size heads or eight to 12 leaf types.

Note, however, that it’s made of plastic with a reservoir that holds excess water, so you may need to adapt your watering practices.

4. Raised Beds

The term “raised bed” can be used to describe a box or container that is filled with growing media and raised above ground level.

They’re often constructed from wood or metal, and often only about eight to 12 inches deep, although some can be deeper – these are fully customizable.

For those of us whose spines doth protest from years spent tending the earth below, and gardeners who may have other mobility challenges, this 31.5-inch-high by 40-inch-long by 13-inch-wide raised box from Costway, available via Walmart, is an excellent pick.

Costway Elevated Plant Stand

This container on legs is constructed from galvanized steel for years of use.

It also has a drainage hole that allows excess water to run off, but you may need to place a piece of mesh over the hole if you plan to fill it with soil rather than placing plants in pots inside it.

Other beds can be built on-site in your yard or garden, with dimensions and materials of your choice.

5. Gutters

While they’re an unconventional choice, gutters make outstanding containers for growing plants like lettuce, with shallow roots.

But I’m referring to the material here, not the ones already attached to your house.

A long gutter can be used to sow a row of heads or many of the leafy varieties, and they can be mounted or hung from a wall, fence, or frame to form a cascading system.

Aluminum or PVC eavestrough gutters can be purchased from most hardware stores and cut to length to be mounted on a frame or hung against a wall or fence.

Because they don’t come with drainage holes, they’ll need to be drilled in, or you can approach the situation from a different angle.

Hanging at a subtle incline to allow excess water to flow off from one end works well, and if there are other gutters below, each can be hung at alternating angles to filter the excess water through from the top down.

Using this type of gravity-fed system is wise if you’ve got moisture-loving specimens such as spinach or peas planted on the bottom tier. Otherwise, make sure excess water is channeled away.

Gutter runoff can be diverted to rain barrels, into garden plots, or onto a downspout splash block to run into the grass.

K-Style Gutter – Aluminum

Head over to Amerimax Home store via Home Depot to find aluminum or vinyl K-style gutter sections in five-inch-deep by 10-foot-long measurements.

6. PVC Pipes

Another budget-conscious choice for growing lettuce plants is polyvinyl chloride, or PVC, piping.

This type of piping is sold at hardware stores and used in plumbing systems in many homes nowadays.

One of the reasons that PVC has become a common building material is because it’s extremely durable – these pipes usually last for decades, even in less than ideal conditions.

This means they’ll hold up outdoors and you may not need to replace them often, or at all.

Just as with gutters, PVC pipes can be purchased and trimmed to the desired length or mounted as-is.

Large planting holes can be cut using a drill and countersink, wood boring, or mandrel bit – just be sure to clamp or tape down the pipe so it doesn’t roll while you’re working.

Be sure to drill some drainage holes at regularly spaced intervals on the underside of the pipe as well. You’ll also want to cap the ends of the pipes to avoid losing soil over time.

I suggest mounting the prepared pipes in their permanent location prior to filling them with soil – trust me, this is advice that comes from experience!

They can become very heavy and difficult to move after they’ve been filled.

PVC Pipe

A 10-foot-long section of schedule 40 PVC pipe four inches in diameter can be purchased from Charlotte Pipe via Home Depot.

Schedule 40 pipes are robust and designed to last in outdoor applications.

7. Towers

Towers are such a great choice for producing a larger volume of heads or leaves of lettuce within a tiny footprint. Making use of vertical space is like stacking multiple garden beds right on top of one another.

These units may rely on either water or soil as the substrate and can become rather heavy when they’re full.

Just as with grow bags, it’s best to choose a permanent (and sturdy!) location for their placement.

A Mini Garden Stacker from True Leaf Market is exactly right for this job.

Mini Garden Stacker

Not only can you grow nine heads of lettuce in an 11-by-24-inch space but you can also hang this one!

Bringing the plants up off of the ground can reduce exposure to ground-dwelling pests and soilborne pathogens as well.

8. Hydroponic Systems

Space-saving countertop hydroponics systems like the Aerogarden, which I reviewed, are great when used indoors to create an accessible, easy to maintain salad garden.

Lettuce is ideal for a system such as the Harvest model, available directly from Aerogarden, or any of their other models like the Bounty, Harvest Elite, or Farm 12, which come in various sizes. 

Aerogarden Harvest

Because these units are designed for indoor use and rely solely on soilless substrate, they reduce the likelihood of pest or disease damage.

They’re excellent for gardeners who have physical challenges as well, since they can be placed within arms’ reach and require no weeding, heavy bagged soil, or repotting to maintain.

Producing a greater volume of greens is possible, either for yourself, your family, or for community projects, with a large hydroponic tower system.

Nutraponics Hydroponics Tower

Try the Nutraponics hydroponics system, available from Walmart with 46, 64, or 80 pots.

9. Pockets

Pocket gardens are newer kids on the block, a fantastic choice if you have no yard or deck space available whatsoever.

Urban gardeners may find these particularly useful since they can be mounted flat against a wall or fence, or hung on a frame, where they’ll take up very little room.

Pockets work well for producing several types of lettuce in a small area, sort of like hanging a square foot garden on the wall. They’re also perfect for increasing output with little effort, especially with this type of crop.

Be aware, however, that pockets can be made from different types of material, and some are more conducive to indoor, outdoor, or long-term growing than others.

For example, hard plastic pockets generally hold up better over time and against the elements, and create less mess, than those made of fabric.

They can also drip water from pockets on the lower rows, or lead to rotting or mold and mildew growth behind them if they’re hanging directly against a surface.

Avoid hanging them where that’s a concern and keep an eye on the lower pockets to make sure they’re not overwatered.

Plastic Pocket Vertical Planter

This 36-pocket plastic set has pockets hung from a frame that includes a self-watering irrigation system. You can pick one up from the Worth Garden store via Amazon.

Felt Pocket Wall Planter

Soft-pocket versions usually cost less and include dozens of planting spaces. Try this felt 36-pocket vertical hanging planter available via Amazon.

The Pot Is as Important as the Plant

As you can see, the choice you make can depend heavily upon where you’re growing lettuce and what type of setup is easiest for you to manage.

So, what’s the verdict? Have you found the right planter for your needs among the containers on our list?

We’d love to know which you’ve settled on and see some photos of your potted garden or container-grown lettuce!

Questions are always welcome as well, so please let us know how we can help, and we’ll do our best for you.

Ready to read more about growing lettuce? Check out these articles next:

Raise your hand if seasonal affective disorder has set in for you. Yep, us too. Because the skies are grey and the landscape is mostly brown in many areas of the country, we decided that today’s episode would be geared towards offering a glimmer of hope. We’re talking about plants that put on a show in the last gasps of winter and first few weeks of spring. Just when you think that the garden is never going to look good again, these unsung heroes show up to give us all a little cheer. We have trees, spring ephemerals and even a few lesser-known North American natives that not only make us happy, but help support the earliest pollinators. Those living in more Southern locales will delight in our expert chiming in from Texas to talk about what gardeners in warmer climes have to look forward to in just a few short days.

Expert guest: Jared Barnes, Ph.D., is an associate professor of horticulture at Stephen F. Austin State University in Nacogdoches, Texas.

Danielle’s Plants

Red trillium (Trillium erectum, Zones 4-7)

Wood anemone (Anemone quinquefolia, 3-8)

Highbush blueberry (Vaccinium corymbosum, Zones 5-8)

Pink flowering dogwood (Cornus florida f. rubra, Zones 5-9)

 

Carol’s Plants

‘Berry Swirl’ hellebore (Helleborus x hybridus ‘Berry Swirl’, Zones 4–8)

Trout lily (Erythronium americanum, Zones 3–8)

False spirea (Sorbaria sorbifolia, Zones 2–8)

Shadblow serviceberry (Amelanchier canadensis, Zones 4–8)

Expert’s Plants

Yellow wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox ‘Luteus’, Zones 7-9)

Paperbush (Edgeworthia chrysantha, Zones 7-10)

Virginia springbeauty (Claytonia virginica, Zones 3-8)

‘Bonita’ Japanese apricot (Prunus mume ‘Bonita’, Zones 6-9)

‘Tojibai’ Japanese apricot (Prunus mume ‘Tojibai’, Zones 6-9)

Are herbs heavy drinkers? Do they wilt at the first sign of dry soil? Depending on where you grow your herbs, the watering they require will change. Here’s everything you need to know about how often to water herbs in your garden and home.

In this post, you will learn:

How Often to Water Herbs

Every herb will have different needs than others, but generally, you’ll need to water your herbs 1-2 times a week.

Before you water, however, make sure to check that the plant is dry and actually needs some water. You don’t want to overwater your herb!

Stick your finger in the soil to test the dryness of the soil. If it feels dry below the top layer of soil, it’s time for watering!

When watering, water in the morning to prevent it from evaporating and give your herbs a big drink. It’s better to water your plants less often but with more water.

How Often to Water Herbs in Pots

Herbs in pots will require more frequent watering than herbs planted in the ground.

Container plants are disadvantaged because they only have so much soil from which to get their water, nutrients, and aeration. You need to give them a little more attention!

The soil will dry out quicker, so you may need to water more often.

When watering, be careful that the soil actually drinks up the water. Oftentimes, most of the water runs along the side of the pot. Or the soil has become so dry it will become hydrophobic to the water.

Like herbs outside, you will want to give them a deep watering in the morning.

How Often to Water Herbs Indoors

Herbs are outdoor plants, so it takes a little more work to make them happy inside. With watering herbs inside, you may not need to grab your watering can as often.

Since they’re not exposed to winds and sun, they won’t dry out as fast (unless they’re by a heating vent or sunny windowsill, you may encounter the opposite).

Water your indoor herbs and those in small containers through the bottom if possible. Your plant pots need to have drainage holes to do this—and they should for their health!

To water from the bottom, place the herb containers in a bowl or tub of water. Let the plant sit for an hour or two, and the soil will soak up the water. It’s one of the best ways to ensure the roots get hydrated thoroughly.

See my guide for more tips on watering indoor plants.

Water Needs for Common Herbs

Every herb will have different watering needs based on where they come from. For instance, Mediterranean herbs are much more likely to be drought tolerant, whereas some get dramatic at first sight of dryness.

Here are the water requirements for some common herbs:

• Mint: water loving. Thrives in moderately moist soil.
• Parsley: water loving. Thrives in moderately moist soil.
• Bay: drought tolerant. Avoid soggy soil.
• Basil: water loving. Thrives in moderately moist soil.
• Oregano: drought tolerant. Avoid soggy soil.
• Cilantro: needs a moderate amount of water.
• Rosemary: drought tolerant. Avoid soggy soil.
• Sage: drought tolerant. Avoid soggy soil.
• Thyme: drought tolerant. Avoid soggy soil.
• Dill: needs a moderate amount of water.
• Marjoram: drought tolerant. Avoid soggy soil.

Frequently Asked Questions About Watering Herbs

Now that you know how to water your herbs, make sure they are in the right soil too. Here’s a post about the best soil for herbs (you might be surprised!).

More Posts About Herbs

Nowadays, the bed is very much a multi-functional piece of furniture. As well as the obvious use for sleeping, many of us also use our bed to work, study, watch TV shows, and talk on the phone with friends and family. That is why we value the purchase of a bed frame that’s suited to our needs.

When classified by materials, metal, wood, and upholstered bed frames are the most common. According to Google Trends, upholstered bed frames are more popular than metal bed frames in the United States, while wood bed frames are the least popular of the three.

In this article, we will focus on the two most popular bed types: metal bed frame and upholstered bed frame, providing you with practical tips on selecting the best bed frame for your needs.

The metal bed frame vs. upholstered bed frame comparison will cover five key areas: durability, weight capacity, storage, style, and cost.

Metal vs. Upholstered Bed

Some of you may be unfamiliar with these two types of bed frames, so let’s briefly introduce them.

A metal bed frame is a bed base that is completely made from metal materials, such as steel, iron and brass. A metal bed is usually constructed of metal side rails, metal supporting legs and metal slats, with some models also including a headboard and footboard. They are available in a variety of colours.

Upholstered bed frames have a cushion over wood and are covered in fabric or leather. There’s a wider range of colours and styles, so you can always find one that matches your bedroom decor.

Durability

Because metal bed frames are entirely made of metal, their sturdiness and durability are determined by the type of metal used, the thickness of the metal tubes/rails, and the anti-rust treatment. Steel bed frames are the most durable and heavy-duty of all types of metal bed frames, because they can withstand different conditions such as humidity, fire, and more. Furthermore, thicker metal is generally of higher quality.

Nowadays, iron beds are becoming more popular thanks to their lower costs. Some people may be sceptical of their rust resistance. However, the iron materials used in today’s iron beds are always pickled to prevent corrosion in wet environments.

Moving on to upholstered bed frames. Most are crafted from wood, with a solid wood and engineered wood combined frame or engineered wood and metal combined frame, which ensures their long-term durability. If you want a long-lasting upholstered bed, consider one that is made entirely or partially of solid wood. And if you’re looking for a more affordable choice, upholstered beds with a wooden/metal frame are both strong and affordable. In terms of upholstery, faux leather and polyester fabric are the most durable and low-maintenance options.

Weight Capacity & Support

Although metal bed frames are lightweight, their weight limit can range from 250 to 2,000 pounds. Based on search results from Amazon and Wayfair, a twin size iron bed can hold 250-350 lbs, and a full/queen/king size bed can can support 500-800 lbs. Steel bed frames can withstand weights of up to 1000 pounds and even more.

The weight limit for an upholstered bed can range between 400 and 900 pounds.  According to Amazon and Wayfair search results, a twin size upholstered bed frame can hold 400-500 lbs, and a full/queen/king size bed frame has a maximum weight capacity of 600-900lb. Bed frames made of solid wood can withstand the most weight.

The support system is one of the most significant differences between them. Metal bed frames feature a metal slatted base; some have 3-4 slats, while others have over 10 evenly spaced slats. Most upholstered bed frames feature horizontal wooden boards.

Both metal slats and wooden slats are intended to provide additional support, so that your mattress doesn’t sink or slide. The thickness of metal or wooden slats, as well as the spacing between slats, are important factors in determining the slats’ lifespan. In general, the closer the slats are spaced, the less likely they are to break. However, please keep in mind that jumping on a bed frame with a slatted bed base may cause the slats to break immediately or prematurely.

Storage

It goes without saying that metal bed frames provide valuable under-bed storage. The size of the storage space is determined by the size of your bed frame and ground clearance. For example, a king size metal bed frame will obviously have more storage space than a double bed. Furthermore, the higher the bed frame is raised above the ground, the more items can be stored beneath it. Boxes, baskets, shoes, and luggage are ideal for under bed storage. A metal bed with ample storage is ideal for small bedrooms or guest bedrooms.

Upholstered bed frames with storage have become popular in recent years. There are two kinds of storage functions. The first has an open compartment underneath the mattress that can be accessed via a gas lift mechanism. Another style has storage drawers at the side or foot of the bed. These drawers are made of various materials; some have a wooden frame, while others have a metal wire frame. The opening and closing functions differ slightly as well.

Yaheetech upholstered bed with storage is equipped with 4 wire netting drawers with rollers measuring 31.5″ L x 19.7″ W x 6″ H, providing sufficient storage space to keep bedding or clothes within easy reach. Crafted in a modern style with a clean-lined silhouette and classic button-tufted diamond patterns, this upholstered platform bed frame is an excellent modern interpretation of elegance and sophistication. Even better, the headboard height can be adjusted from 39.5′′ to 44′′ to accommodate different mattress sizes while still allowing a full view of the tufted embellishment. For added stability and durability, it combines a wooden slat system with solid metal centre rails. It will look great in contemporary, modern, and traditional bedrooms.

Style

Metal bed frames can be very modern and contemporary, or they can be vintage and one-of-a-kind. If you prefer a farmhouse or vintage bedroom style, consider a full metal bed with curved silhouettes and delicate, traditional design-inspired patterns or embellishments on the head and foot, or details such as ball finials and scrollwork. If you prefer minimalist or contemporary bedrooms, a metal bed with clean lines and a simple design, such as a metal bed with slatted headboard, is a good option.

Upholstered bed frames outperform other types of beds in terms of versatility. You can always find one that matches your room’s style, whether it’s modern, glam, traditional, or contemporary. If you want a glam-style bedroom, go for a bed with a bold upholstered headboard and metallic-tone legs. A streamlined, light-coloured fabric or leather upholstered bed with no extra tufting is a good choice for contemporary bedrooms. If you want your bedroom to be classic and elegant, upholstered beds with winged or arched headboards can add a touch of elegance to your sleeping oasis.

Price

Metal bed frames vary in price from less than £60 to over £800, depending on factors like construction, materials, and weight capacity. Metal bed frames are generally less expensive than upholstered bed frames, though frames with vintage designs or made from brass will be more costly.

The cost of an upholstered bed frame can range from £80 to more than £1600, depending on factors such as frame material, upholstery material, and design. Upholstered bed frames with a luxurious upholstery, such as genuine leather, natural wool boucle, or with a solid wood frame, will be more expensive.

Conclusion

Upholstered bed frames will meet the needs of the majority of people due to their stronger construction, powerful storage function, and diverse design styles. Metal bed frames are a good option if you’re on a tight budget or just need a temporary bed frame.

About Yaheetech

Yaheetech, established in 2003, is a professional brand specialising in home and office furniture. With 39 self-owned warehouses worldwide, they deliver a wide selection of quality furniture products within 3 days locally, and support 30 days no reason to return and exchange goods policies. Operating in 10 countries covering North America and Europe for more than fifteen years, they have become an industry-leading furniture brand with 1.9 million global sales. Yaheetech have achieved Furniture Supplies best seller on over ten online shopping platforms, including Amazon, Walmart, eBay, Wayfair, Wish, Cdiscount, ManoMano, OTTO, Rakuten, Real and more.

Collaborative post

When Jane Scotter bought Fern Verrow, her 16-acre farm in Herefordshire in the foothills of the Black Mountains, in 1996 she fell into biodynamic farming almost by accident: She was looking for a certification body and the biodynamic regime was, she says, just “a step or two further than organic.” Tasks from sowing to harvesting are carried out according to the biodynamic calendar (which is based on the phases of the moon and other astronomical events) and special preparations are applied to the land and plants at different times of the year.

Photography courtesy of Create Academy.

If, in the past, these elements sounded a little kooky to the uninitiated—cow manure is placed into cow horns and then buried under the soil, before months later being later stirred into water and applied to the farmland—they seem less so now, especially when Scotter’s ridiculously vibrant, larger-than-life vegetables and flowers come into view. “As modern people we have lost connection with that kind of thinking,” she says. “It makes a lot of sense to me and feels really good and I absolutely wouldn’t farm or grow any other way.” As she launches her first course with Create Academy we round up some of the farmer’s tips and biodynamic insights.

For the past eight years, Scotter has closely collaborated with Skye Gyngell, founder of London’s celebrated Spring restaurant and formerly the Michelin-star winning head chef at Petersham Nurseries. In their farm-to-table collaboration, produce is picked one day and served on a plate the next day. As a result, her farm is planned with military precision to maximize crops and productivity but also to produce the most beautiful varieties.

Crops are planned out on a spreadsheet that details yields, seeds, planting spaces, and harvesting times. Even for small scale growers ,she suggests doing the same so that you can calculate exactly how much space you’ll need. And if you only have a small space, she suggests thinking carefully about your plot and its aspect—don’t attempt to grow delicate leafy salads in scorching sun, grow what will flourish and what you will most enjoy eating. “Not everything will work,” says the farmer, who accepts failures as part of the process. “I never get put off by that—every season is good for something.”

Scotter is a big believer in relishing the beauty in everything that she grows, and curates growing areas to maximize the overall effect. She also chooses varieties of edibles for their looks—even if the taste isn’t perhaps as good as other varieties. Tomatoes are a case in point. The black tomato ‘Indigo Rose’ is, she says, “so outstandingly beautiful” that it deserves a spot in the greenhouse. Among her favorites for flavor are Jaune Flame, a deep orange tomato with an amazing sweet syrupiness, and Gardener’s Delight, which she describes as the very best outdoor tomato with great flavor and good size.

Reverence for the soil extends to the crops and where possible all elements are used. Brussel sprouts are grown for Christmas. but the top clump of leaves is pinched out in autumn providing an additional crop—the tops can be steamed or shredded and are prized by the chefs at Spring. (Organic seeds— Groninger sprouts in this instance—are sourced by Tamar Organics.) Similarly the cauliflower’s outer leaves, normally discarded, are, says Scotter, delicious cooked simply in butter or steamed.

Alongside edibles, the farm grows supersize flowers unlike anything you’ve ever seen—the farm sells bunches twice a week and supplies all of Spring’s flowers from April until October—and we are agog at the beauty and vitality of the farm’s tulips. Twenty thousand bulbs are planted in autumn; half are planted in outside beds and half under glass to extend the season. And they are treated as a commercial crop, so that the bulbs are composted each year and new bulbs planted to ensure the very best flowers.

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Hello, this is Cindy Strickland. I wanted to share a few scenes from an October 2017 trip I took to the area around Sydney, Australia.

I enjoyed walking in and around the historic Vaucluse House and its garden.

This is the fountain garden at the Vaucluse House.

And here is the enclosed cool and shaded area adjacent to the house dominated by the tree fern and tower.

The texture and patterns of the Australian straw tree fern (Cyathea cooperi) are remarkable.

The Alloxylon flammeum (its common names are red silky oak or tree waratah) has magnificent red flowers and is often cultivated as a small tree.

Outside a florist shop in the city there were buckets filled with bouquets of these flowers. I believe some of them are Protea, which are in the same family as the Alloxylon.

On a visit to Leura, in the Blue Mountains west of Sydney, I encountered this post box surrounded by gorgeous blooms.

On one of the harbor paths to the Opera House, this mass of flowers with the stone wall made a lovely vignette.

Finally, a colorful display of Australia seed packets

 

Have a garden you’d like to share?

Have photos to share? We’d love to see your garden, a particular collection of plants you love, or a wonderful garden you had the chance to visit!

To submit, send 5-10 photos to [email protected] along with some information about the plants in the pictures and where you took the photos. We’d love to hear where you are located, how long you’ve been gardening, successes you are proud of, failures you learned from, hopes for the future, favorite plants, or funny stories from your garden.

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IT’S PROBABLY the question I’m asked most: Gardeners want to go wilder and use more native plants to create habitat, but how do they figure out which plants, since it’s not one-size-fits-all regions or even different locations within a region, and choosing, as we mostly do, by hardiness zone isn’t going to get the ecological job done, so help?

Benjamin Vogt has just published a new book that takes us through prescriptive steps to get started in natural garden design. He is the owner of Monarch Designs LLC, a prairie-based design firm specializing in natural landscapes. His latest book is “Prairie Up: An Introduction to Natural Garden Design.”

Plus: Enter to win a copy of “Prairie Up” (affiliate link) by commenting in the box near the bottom of the page.

Read along as you listen to the February 20, 2023 edition of my public-radio show and podcast using the player below. You can subscribe to all future editions on Apple Podcasts (iTunes) or Spotify or Stitcher (and browse my archive of podcasts here).

natural garden design, with benjamin vogt

 

 

Margaret Roach: Congratulations, Benjamin, on the book.

Benjamin Vogt: Thank you, Margaret. As you know, books are little miracles.

Margaret: Big miracles [laughter]. A lot of work, a lot of work. Just as a little background context, I always like to ask people, your own garden: You’re in Nebraska, so your own garden, tell us what it would look at out the window if it weren’t winter right now.

Benjamin: Oh, I love the winter garden. It’s the best time of year. It’s my favorite time of year [laughter].

Margaret: Well, then tell us what it looks like right now.

Benjamin: I am literally looking out of an office window right now and there’s a small gravel path with about 150 square foot of lawn, so we can have a little bit of a picnic space, but most of the backyard I’m looking at is meadow. Wild meadow here, but to the left is a little bit more semi-designed wildness, and then out front is probably middle-of-the-road designed wildness.

Margaret: “Middle-of-the-road designed wildness,” O.K. [Laughter].

Benjamin: The spectrum is very broad.

Margaret: The book is called “Prairie Up,” and you’re in the prairie region of the country, I guess. But even with that in the title and you’re being there and doing a lot of work in that region for clients and so forth, I was really delighted to find that so much of the prescriptive how-to guidance that we need from an expert such as yourself, who’s tackled this so many times, the heart of the book really has all this advice that suits gardeners anywhere. Because it’s a way of thinking, especially the part about how to determine your plant palette, and then also the methods of site preparation that I want to ask you about later.

But what really struck me is there’s this sentence that’s just so obvious, there’s something that says something like, “Don’t choose your plants by the hardiness zones [laughter] because Zone 5 in Colorado is different from Zone 5 in New York,” or something like that.

Benjamin: Exactly. We want to be thinking about ecoregions. We’re going to be thinking about plant communities that are local to us.

Margaret: Ecoregion is a word that I don’t think people know as well, gardeners don’t necessarily know as well. Tell us a little bit about that system from the EPA of ecoregion maps and so forth. [Below, a sample map from the EPA website.]

Benjamin: Yes. The EPA basically has maps out that… Well, they have four different ecoregion levels. The first level’s these very broad, huge, sprawling ecoregions that cover massive portions of the country, states and states and states together. I always tell gardeners, “Let’s look at ecoregion Level III, which is a lot more specific, or ecoregion Level IV.”

So out here in eastern Nebraska, where I have found myself for 23 years, oddly enough, we have this tallgrass prairie region that stretches from basically Kansas up into the Dakotas. It’s this thin strip, but that’s my ecoregion, and that will tell me so much more than about the cold tolerance of plants. It will tell me all about wildlife support, about hydrology, about soils, so I can make much more educated guesses on plants that will thrive where I live.

Margaret: Those maps are one asset that we can use. And I have to confess, I’ve known about them for a number of years, and they’re not as easy to consult unless you’re a little bit more expert, because as you just pointed out, there’s several different tiers of maps. And wow, by the time you get to three and four, there’s hundreds of ecoregions that the country’s divided up to into and color-coded and so forth. You have to be patient if you want to do this, or you can do some homework there and then also do homework in some other sources, I think, as well, right, to really learn about your hyper-local information?

Benjamin: Yeah. You can’t just rely on the ecoregion maps. I say this in the book, I try to empower them to say, “There’s a source here, there’s a source there.” There’s all kinds of sources that I don’t know about because I don’t live where you are. When you start to spend time researching plants before you ever plant anything, and this research aspect is so incredibly important, but when you spend time doing that, you become so empowered and so much more confident. For me, I think the joy levels just increase exponentially as I learn about the plants and get excited. It’s like garden-planting foreplay or something.

Margaret: Yes. One thing that I did years ago, and I don’t even remember initially how it happened, how the introduction was made, but I learned about a nonprofit in my area that was a consultant service that helped entities that were doing conservation work. I’m in a rural area up in New York State, and they were helping if something like a Nature Conservancy or a less famous group wanted to conserve land, they did the biodiversity survey of the land as part of the report and so forth. And they were keeping records.

It turned out they were almost creating what I would call a flora of my county, a document of the plant diversity in my county. They had it on their website, and I could look at it and I could see where they’d seen this or that or the other thing, it was really interesting. I started going to lectures…sorry, long story, dot, dot, dot… They would have talks and I would go, because they were the most knowledgeable local resource. As you point out, you wouldn’t know to send me there, but I found that because I did the homework and it really paid off.

Benjamin: I am jealous of that resource you have there. That sounds fantastic.

Margaret: Sometimes local native plant societies know about it, if you can get one that’s more local than regional, sometimes they can turn you on to someone like that, I think. What other sources? In the book, you talk about various plant databases where we can even search by zip code and learn about plant palettes and so forth, so what about that?

Benjamin: Sure. For people new to natural garden design, and specifically using native plants, there are some very basic beginner first step places, and those include Xerces Society, or Pollinator Partnership, or Audubon Society. Those will just give you some basic starter lists you can start researching. Once you start researching those plant lists, then you’re going to start finding other plants that match the growing conditions and site conditions that those plants thrive in, and then before you know it, you’re really off to the races,

Margaret: That Pollinator Partnership, I was glad to see that recommended in your book, it’s Pollinator.org, I believe. They have a whole zip code-based search for… There’s dozens of reference guides that you can download; you put in your zip code.

Benjamin: Yeah.

Margaret: Have you used some of those with clients and so forth and yourself?

Benjamin: Well, for myself, a long time ago, those regional PDF guides that they have are very extensive and very helpful, so they take you to the next level. And that next level will probably lead you to BONAP, Biota of North America Program. I think I got the acronym right [laughter].

Margaret: Yes. I love the BONAP maps.

Benjamin: The maps. And then you can also go to the USDA, and at least for some of the plant species, they’ll have PDF documents to tell you more about the plants and their growing conditions and wildlife support and all that good stuff.

Margaret: We’re not trying to make everyone feel like, “Oh my gosh, this is so much work, I can’t do this.” We’re trying to say what you said, “This is going to bring joy. This is going to bring ‘aha,’ and you’re going to feel confident and it’s going to empower you to do a good job and have good results, so this is worth it.”

Benjamin: We hear that garden adage, “To dig a $10 hole for a $1 plant.” Well, I want you to spend 10 minutes researching one plant before you ever consider purchasing it, to make sure it’s going to work on your site and make sure that it’s going to work with the other plants that you already have in your garden. That way, you won’t feel like you have brown-thumbism down the road.

Margaret: [Laughter.] I’ve never killed a plant, Benjamin, never.

Benjamin: Oh, never, never.

Margaret: No.

Benjamin: Well, I actually kill a lot of plants on purpose, because sometimes you have to kill your darlings for the greater good.

Margaret: Oh, O.K. You just said plants working together and so forth. In the book, you talk about plant communities and advise us to learn to think about plant communities, not just individual choices. That’s antithetical to, “I want that rosebush,” that ornamental horticulture approach to, “And I’m going to put it right over here next to the thing that has the same color, blah, blah,” and that’s not what we’re talking about. What are plant communities? How do we think that way?

Benjamin: I do want to say that aesthetic concerns, especially in a front yard where we’re converting lawn to a more natural landscape, we still have a lot of traditional aesthetic concerns. It’s just that we’re letting plants guide the way, guide the management, show us where they want to be and how they want to be, and even if they want to vanish completely and that’s totally O.K. We like that dynamic in the landscape, we want to see things changing.

The most basic definition of plant community, let me see if I can do this, it’s basically a group of plants that grow in the same site conditions and ecoregion and climate, and they produce this dynamism where they are, I don’t know if balanced is the right word, because they’re also fighting for all the same resources, well, soil and light, so it’s almost…

In the book, I talk about it, it’s good that we have plants struggling, we want them to struggle, we want it to grow into a prairie. We have plants like stiff goldenrod, which is, I’m not even going to do the Latin, I can’t do that [laughter]. But we have stiff goldenrod that’s 2 feet tall out in the prairie, you bring it into the home landscape, where it has more room to breathe and far less competition, and it gets upwards of 4 feet tall, and then flops over because it gets too tall. If it has that root stress and that competition, it’s actually a healthier plant and will aesthetically look better in your landscape because it’s not tall, flopping over, hitting people as they walk their dogs on the sidewalk.

Margaret: I remember, a million years ago, going to see the famous prairie restoration at the University of Wisconsin-Madison and being struck, being a Northeasterner and not really knowing that type of landscape as well, struck by how much the grasses did, not just visually, but to literally support everybody else, the forbs and so forth.

Benjamin: Well, in a lot of ways. They’re supporting in the physical sense in some cases, acting as buttresses, but they’re also supporting by having all of that competition. Grasses have very fibrous root zones, so they are taking over the soil [laughter], so they are competing for resources and in some cases, reducing what certain forb species can do. Now, there are forb species that compete very well with grasses, and please don’t ask me to list them right now.

Margaret: Not off the top of your head. Good. But that’s why homework is important, because even as expert as you are, before you engage with a new client and design something new or whatever, or even probably take on a new portion of your own home landscape that you were designing for, you go back to the books, you go back to the online, you do more homework, right?

Benjamin: I have so many lists and tables that I’ve put together. Even though on many of my projects, I’m using the same plants and the same plant groupings and communities, I am always remaking my lists for each project.

Margaret: Plant communities is something else, when we’re doing this homework and learning about individual plants, that would be appropriate, as you were talking about before. We might want to also find out what they are commonly found with in a natural setting, is that the clue?

Benjamin: Yes, that’s absolutely the clue. I want to say, too, here in suburban and urban landscapes, we’re not really restoring a prairie because we can’t; that’s gone forever. All the soil life, the microbiome is gone forever, and you just can’t have that habitat connectivity as you can out on thousands of square acres of prairie. We’re just trying to bring that echo, and get people engaged in a larger conversation about conservation, and just embracing the home where you find yourself being right now.

Margaret: Right. And to understand its characteristics and what’s possible, what it can possibly support and become.

Benjamin: Every lawn is a prairie screaming to come out of the ground [laughter].

Margaret: Yes. Or at least a meadow, if not a prairie, if we’re not-

Benjamin: Prairie, meadow, savanna, these ecosystems are in every state across the country.

Margaret: Getting started, and so you talked a few times about lawn and that’s been the big thing, is the consciousness has shifted. People are aware that lawn lacks diversity and isn’t doing any work in the ecology of the place, and they want to give back some lawn. But it’s like, “Uh-oh, what do I do?” They want the instant answer, and there isn’t one.

I’m a longtime organic gardener and I don’t want to use chemicals, but over and again, I’ve had it explained to me by leaders in restoration, in native plant habitat restoration and so forth, that sometimes for the greater good, we have to use different methods that we wouldn’t normally use.

What are some of the methods that we could use to start to shift that piece of lawn or whatever into something new? What are the possibilities?

Benjamin: You just want me to create controversy and stoke the embers [laughter].

Margaret: Well, I just did. I just did. Again, I acknowledge I’m against it, but I understand.

Benjamin: Oh, me too.

Margaret: I understand why getting to the punchline ,where we can plant the needed plants having eradicated the dangerous ones, the invasives often, is what we’re … With lawn, it’s not an invasive exactly, but whatever.

Benjamin: Sure. The ends justify the means here. When I talk with landscape restorationists, people working on prairies and woodlands, they would be up a creek without glyphosate, it’s a useful tool. They’re not slathering it across millions of acres of corn and soybean fields many times a year, and they’re not slathering it on top of vegetables, number one. I took this approach very gingerly in the book, because I know this is going to be one of the top three backlashes I get; backlash maybe isn’t the right word.

But if we’re looking, especially at converting lawn to a meadow type garden, we’re going to use glyphosate. We’re going to do one application, the lawn is dead, and then we plant straight into it. The wonderful benefit of that is we are not disturbing the soil. Whenever you go in and disturb the soil, well, you bring weed seeds to the surface or you allow them to get sunlight, and the crabgrass and the foxtails, especially, I know those are just annuals and not a huge problem, but they can just make the place look awful the first year. We don’t want that extra need of work if we don’t have to.

If you have a place, a hillside, a site that’s prone to erosion, you don’t want to be disturbing the soil, because you’re going to create a ton more problems, so we are using the glyphosate that one time.

Margaret: It’s really tricky. But as I said, I’ve had many very respected people explain to me why, like what you just said, that they couldn’t accomplish their end goal without that help, and not every day, every month, every year over and over and over, but to get started. There’s one firm not far from me that does a lot of native installations and so forth and they use a sod stripper, they bring in a sod stripper and what you just said. What about that cleaning the palate, clean slate, the sod stripper?

Benjamin: That sod stripper, sod cutter, it’s perfect if you’re doing that installation that day of, your crew shows up at 6:00, remove the lawn by 8:00, and you’re planting and you’re done by the end of the day. But again, that’s massive soil disturbance, and you’re exposing weeds to sunlight, even if you put down mulch layer, that disturbance is not great.

Now, if you have 100 square feet and you want to use the cardboard lasagna method, go for it, but when I’m working on projects of 500, 1,000, 10,000 square feet, there’s not enough cardboard in the city to do this and we don’t have time to wait for that process.

You could also solarize with plastic, but then you’re creating plastic waste and you’re baking the soil and the soil life and killing all of the microbes in the soil. I really go with the method that causes the most controversy.

Margaret: But in some ways, maybe it causes the least disturbance, as you were pointing out. If we just want to do the 100 square feet or whatever and we do want to do the cardboard, how long is it going to be before we’re going to plant into that?

Benjamin: Well, I think the main method is you put your cardboard down, you soak it really well, you throw some wood mulch on top, and then you plant. I think that’s the main way to do it.

Margaret: No, it is, just that I’ve always had stuff pop through when I do that. If I wait a while, it’s more effective.

Benjamin: Absolutely. I think it would be good to wait a couple weeks or a couple months. I know if you’re solarizing with plastic, you have to leave it on for a month, and then you take it off two weeks and then you let weed seeds germinate, and then you put it back on, and then you take it off and let more weed seeds germinate, because you want to exhaust the weed seed bank.

Margaret: When we are getting started, not so many years ago, it was really hard to find the raw materials to use, either the seed or the small plants, the plugs, so to speak. Now, those have become more of a item that even a home gardener can find. I think in more regions I’m seeing them available, either locally or by mail order. Are you typically starting clean slate and then from seed or from a combination of plugs of seed? What’s the raw materials?

Benjamin: Yes to all of that [laughter].

Margaret: All of it?s

Benjamin: It depends on the site, the size of the site, the client’s budget, a lot of factors. We’re using primarily seeds and plugs. Plugs are a younger form of the plant, they’re not huge, potted up one-gallon plants. We’re using plugs and seed, so there will be put projects where we are doing the flowers as plugs and doing the masses and drifts and then we sow in the matrix, or groundcover, usually warm season bunchgrasses, like sideoats grama or blue grama or little bluestem.

And then there are projects where we are just doing plugs every 12 inches or every 10 inches or every 8 inches on center, just covering the whole landscape, and it’s a long day.

Margaret: Wow. That’s a long day, you’re not kidding. When you’re saying you’re sowing in the matrix, so the grass, for instance, so you’re doing the plugs of some of the forbs, the perennial flowering things or whatever, as plugs, and then you’re sowing in grasses around it? Are you sowing that again?

Benjamin: Yeah, we’re sowing it. If we go in and spray-kill a lawn, I will go ahead and sow grasses into that after we’ve planted all of the forbs. When you’re sowing into dead lawn, you want to increase your sowing rate of those grasses by 50 percent, 100 percent, or something like that. But I found that dead lawn makes a wonderful growing medium. It keeps the soil surface more moist and shades those young grass seedlings so they get off to a really good start, I think in some cases, even more so than if it was just a bare soil site.

Now, of course, you cannot sow into wood mulch. People always ask that, so I want to make sure to say that, you can’t sow into wood mulch, because there’s no seed-to-soil contact.

Margaret: There was one other thing that I loved in the book, and again, the book is “Prairie Up,” and it’s just loaded with information and is really practical. Besides the inspiration and the philosophical and the science of why we want to do this, you also give so much practical help to get started. But I love that you say that you get every client to sign an, “Expectation agreement.” What is an expectation agreement that I would have to sign? Tell us about that, because I think we need to sign it with ourselves if we tackle one of these projects, right?

Benjamin: [Laughter.] Yeah. It’s just a simple, one-page document. I don’t even know how many clients read it, but it’s basically saying, “This is how long the garden is going to take to establish. This is what the plants are going to do; they’re going to move around. We’re probably going to have some initial wee, pressure the first year. It’s not going to be a huge deal. If we have invasive plants, we’ll deal with it, but it’s usually just annuals.” It talks about watering and maintenance and management, things like, “Please do not fertilize this space, that is totally unnecessary and can actually harm the plants and the plant communities.” And then also embracing wildlife, things like, “If you see leaf damage, that is awesome, you should do a mega-happy dance. We want to see our plants being eaten.”

Margaret: So time-wise, my expectation is that, is three years later, I’m going to see more of it filled out? What’s the time when people ask you, “Well, when is this going to look like something?” [Laughter.]

Benjamin: Well, if we’re doing it from all plugs, two to three years, if we’re doing seed and plugs, four years, if we’re doing all seed, four to six years, generally. Every site is different. It always amazes me how every site is so different from one another.

Margaret: But as they say, Rome wasn’t built in a day, right?

Benjamin: No.

Margaret: And transforming the mess we’ve made in many places into something that’s abundant and diverse and thriving: to invest a few years, it’s really, considering that the decades that we’ve been beating it up, right?

Benjamin: Oh yeah, absolutely. It’s really a small timeframe when you think about it. I could say something scary and say probably, even it would be more like 10 or 20 years if you want to think about [laughter]–

Margaret: To come into its full glory.

Benjamin: Yeah. It does, of course, require management. You’re not out there mowing and watering every week, but you are responding to plants. Maybe you have to cut to curtail the grass growth, or there’s one species of forb of that’s taking over and you need to get rid of it, so there is still management.

Margaret: Well, Benjamin, I’m really glad to speak to you, and congratulations again on the book. I hope we’ll speak again soon. Thank you.

Benjamin: Thank you, Margaret. It’s been a supreme pleasure.

more from benjamin vogt

(Photos from Benjamin Vogt/Monarch Designs LLC, except EPA map.)

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MY WEEKLY public-radio show, rated a “top-5 garden podcast” by “The Guardian” newspaper in the UK, began its 13th year in March 2022. It’s produced at Robin Hood Radio, the smallest NPR station in the nation. Listen locally in the Hudson Valley (NY)-Berkshires (MA)-Litchfield Hills (CT) Mondays at 8:30 AM Eastern, rerun at 8:30 Saturdays. Or play the February 20, 2023 show using the player near the top of this transcript. You can subscribe to all future editions on iTunes/Apple Podcasts or Spotify or Stitcher (and browse my archive of podcasts here).

Cream cheese fruit dip is quick easy to make with this recipe, and it’s so yummy. In this post I’ll show you exactly how to make it with 4 common ingredients, including detailed step by step instructions.

This cream cheese fruit dip recipe is delicious, and so simple to whip up in only 10 minutes or less.

It’s great when you have a craving for something sweet, and compliments all types of fresh fruit wonderfully.

Use it for a quick snack, serve it on an appetizer or chartreuse tray, or enjoy it as a healthy dessert.

Below I’ll show you exactly how to make your soon-to-be favorite recipe for fruit dip with a cream cheese and yogurt base, step by step.

Homemade Cream Cheese Fruit Dip

This homemade cream cheese fruit dip is thick and creamy, and will satisfy your craving without all the guilt.

It’s so much better than any store-bought versions (which are usually full of sugar and other additives), and you control the ingredients.

The natural sweetness comes from honey, with a touch of cinnamon to enhance all of the flavors on your palette.

How To Make Fruit Dip With Cream Cheese

Not only does this cream cheese fruit dip taste great, you’re going to love just how quick and easy it is to make too.

All you need are 4 common ingredients, and you might even have them on hand already.

Cream Cheese Fruit Dip Recipe Ingredients

With only a handful of ingredients you will be on your way to a new recipe in minutes. Here are the ingredients, with a few substitutions if you want to try different options.

• Whipped cream cheese – This is the base of your fruit dip, and gives it a subtle tangy flavor. I prefer whipped, because it’s smoother and easier to blend. If you want to use a block you can. But make sure to let it sit out at room temperature until it’s soft to make blending easier, and the base smoother.

• Vanilla Greek yogurt – This adds thickness and richness to the recipe. You could sub for any other type of yogurt, although it may result in a thinner texture. I like the vanilla flavor, but you could use plain Greek yogurt instead.

• Honey – This adds natural sweetness and gives the dip a thicker texture. You can experiment with using less or more depending on your sweetness preference. You could also swap this for pure maple syrup.

• Cinnamon – Adds nice warm and earthy undertones to the mixture, complimenting the other flavors. It’s optional, so if you prefer not to use it you can skip it.

Tools & Equipment Needed

You don’t need any fancy equipment to make this recipe, just a few common items that you probably already have in your kitchen.

Tips For Making Cream Cheese Dip For Fruit

This recipe is very straightforward to make. But here are a few tips to keep in mind before you create your own, to ensure you’ll have the best possible results.

• Ensure the cream cheese is fully ready – Don’t try blending a cold, hard cream cheese block, or the end result will be lumpy. Let it warm to room temperature first.

• Prepare your fruit later – If you are planning to create an appetizer or dessert tray, prepare the dip before cutting your fruit, or wait until right before serving it. In addition, you can toss your fresh fruit in 2-3 teaspoons of lemon juice to further prevent browning for a more eye-appealing presentation.

• Less is more – I suggest starting with the amount of honey I recommend the first time you make this recipe. If it doesn’t seem sweet enough, add more in ½ teaspoon increments. Or if it’s too sweet, decrease it by half next time, then you can increase it slowly until you find your perfect amount.

Using & Storing Cream Cheese Fruit Dip

This cream cheese dip is delicious with any of your favorite fruits, such as berries, bananas, apples, melons, kiwi, and more.

Or you could use it as a healthier option for dessert, by adding some graham or other sweet crackers or cookies to your presentation.

Because it contains dairy, don’t let it sit out for more than 3 hours at a time. You can store it covered in the refrigerator for up to one week.

If you enjoy a yummy cream cheese dip to snack on with fresh fruit, you will love this simple and quick recipe. It has fantastic flavor, and a perfectly smooth texture that will melt in your mouth.

If you’re ready to take your garden to new heights, then you need a copy of my Vertical Vegetables book. It has all you need to be successful with growing your crops vertically, plus tons of beautiful DIY projects you can build in your garden. Order your copy today!

Learn more about my Vertical Vegetables book here.

More Garden Fresh Recipes

Share your favorite cream cheese fruit dip recipe in the comments section below.

Recipe & Instructions

The first time I walked past a camellia bush, I literally did a double take.

I turned to the friend I was walking with and asked if they knew what the heck this gorgeous creature was.

A quick trip to the nursery after that, and I was on my way to growing my own beauty.

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I soon learned fertilizing is one of the essential parts of growing a shrub that makes heads turn.

You have to feed your plants if you want them to perform. If you do it right, you’ll be richly rewarded.

The process is all about timing and determining your baseline to begin, starting with a solid foundation – and a good understanding of the soil.

That’s what this guide aims to teach gardeners. To that end, we’re going to discuss the following:

How to Fertilize Camellias

Camellias are slow growers and heavy feeders.

While they can survive without fertilizer, particularly in the case of older, more established plants, they will bloom and grow much better if you feed them.

Even if you have fairly healthy soil and you mulch regularly with well-rotted compost, it’s likely that your soil doesn’t have enough nutrients to keep heavy feeders like camellias happy.

You don’t want to over-fertilize either, however. That leads to spindly, leggy growth that breaks easily.

Choosing a Fertilizer

There are lots of granular fertilizers out there made for acid-loving, woody shrubs like azaleas, rhododendrons, and camellias.

You can rely on these if your soil is fairly balanced in nutrients already and if your soil is the correct pH for these plants.

Remember, these plants prefer slightly acidic soil with a pH of around 6.0 to 6.5.

Dr. Earth’s Acid Lovers blend is ideal, particularly for older, well-established plants that don’t need anything special. Plus, it’s Non-GMO Project verified if that’s important to you.

Dr. Earth Acid Lovers

Amazon carries this product in one-, four-, and 12-pound bags.

If you’re like most people, you probably don’t know what kinds of nutrients your soil has in it already.

It’s easy to assume that you’re starting from a neutral baseline when, in reality, your soil is deficient in nitrogen and high in phosphorus, for example.

If you were to feed with a balanced fertilizer, you’d be wasting money on nutrients your plants don’t need and missing out on ones they do.

The solution is to test your soil. You don’t have to do this often. Doing it every few years will give you a good idea of what’s going on.

It doesn’t have to be expensive, either. You can buy a soil test kit or you can send some soil off to your local extension office and they’ll give you a good rundown on the nutritional makeup.

Once you receive your results, you can do what’s required to balance your soil, whether that involves making amendments to change the pH or working in more of one particular nutrient.

After that’s done, you can turn to that good old camellia fertilizer we talked about above.

When to Feed Camellias

Ideally, you should feed your plants two times a year – once after the blooms have mostly faded, and once again in midsummer to give them a boost as they begin to develop the flower buds for next year’s show.

The exact timing will vary depending on where you live and which type you are growing, so observe your own plant rather than relying on the calendar as the chief indicator.

When the flowers are mostly faded, feed your plants. Then, when you see the very beginning of buds developing, feed again.

Fertilizing Tips

The exact process will vary depending on the type of fertilizer you’re using.

In general, you’ll want to rake away any mulch that you’ve put in place and apply the granules spanning an area from just outside the trunk to the edge of the drip line.

Then reapply your mulch and water well.

Again, it depends on the manufacturer’s directions, but you’ll want to spread out about a quarter of a cup per mature plant.

Give the Right Food at the Right Time

Careful feeding is imperative in young specimens as opposed to mature ones, to help them develop a strong structure that will keep them healthy for years to come.

But established plants need nutrients too. It’s easy to forget about feeding your bushes when they’re mature and blossoming just fine, but your camellias will look so much better if you take this extra step.

Is this your first year maintaining your camellia plants? Or are you just looking for a refresher on how to give these beauties the things they need to thrive?

Share the details of your journey with us in the comments below. We’re all at different points in the process and it’s nice to be able to chat about what we’ve learned.

If you are just beginning, you might find some of our other camellia growing guides useful. Here are a few to get you started: