Category: Home & Garden

If you’ve ever shopped for a Japanese maple, you have no doubt noticed that they come in an astounding array of leaf colors and shapes, and a range of growth habits and sizes.

While that’s wonderful in terms of options, it can be a challenge when you’re trying to talk all things Japanese maple: “You know, the one with the really deeply divided lobes? Not, not that one. The one with the super serrated edges? No…”

Some enthusiasts simply divide maple trees into two groups: upright and weeping. But if you want to truly understand this diverse and ever-evolving group of plants, you need to be able to describe them more specifically.

We link to vendors to help you find relevant products. If you buy from one of our links, we may earn a commission.

That’s why experts on these plants created 17 categories to define all of the different types of Japanese maples that are out there.

In our guide to growing Japanese maples, we cover how to cultivate these trees in your landscape.

This guide helps to make sense of all of the different categories, plus we’ll provide details about a few plants that exemplify each group. Here’s what’s ahead:

If you assumed that the main difference between Japanese maples was growth habit and size, you’re in for a real treat! Let’s get started.

How Japanese Maples Are Categorized

If you’ve ever shopped for Japanese maples, you might not realize that many of them are mislabeled.

But I’ve taken a gander at the available varieties at several places that shall remain nameless and found that they had multiple trees that were labeled completely wrong!

I felt bad for the customers who thought they were bringing home a tree that was labeled as a type having red foliage, only to discover after they planted it that the foliage turns green in the summer.

Clearly, there was a gap in the Japanese maple world that led to some labeling confusion. Enter the Maple Society. Using their system, you’d know if you were looking at a correctly labeled atropurpureum that it would stay red all summer long.

The Maple Society is a United Kingdom-based group that registers new cultivars in the Acer genus, and taps into the expertise of botanists and Japanese maple experts around the world.

They have officially broken up the broad category of Japanese maples into 17 groups, using the system defined by noted expert Cor van Gelderen, and building on the work of nurseryman Benoit Choeau.

This system is particularly helpful because these plants may come from one of numerous Acer species that are indigenous to Japan.

A. palmatum is the most common, but you’ll also see the species A. shirasawanum, A. japonicum, A. capilipes, and more, along with their hybrids.

Originally, J.D. Vertrees, a highly respected entomologist, grower, and educator based in Oregon who is generally thought of as one of the most knowledgeable Japanese maple experts in the West, grouped the plants into seven categories.

Five of his categories are used by the Maple Society today, plus twelve more. The five categories that overlap between Vertrees’ and the Maple Society’s are: amoenum, dissectum, linearilobum, matsumurae, and palmatum.

Vertrees also grouped all dwarf plants together, and had a final category called “other” for everything else.

Both classification systems are generally based on the division of the leaf lobes, variegation, and color.

Before we jump in, we need a quick leaf anatomy lesson so we are all on the same page with these terms:

• Lobes on a leaf are projections that extend from a central point, like fingers.
• A sinus is the gap between the lobes.
• A petiole is the little stem that attaches the leaf to the branch of the tree.
• The margin is the outside edge of the leaf, and the veins extend from the petiole up through the leaf to transport water.

Now, let’s take a look at each of the 17 classifications used to describe Japanese maples today.

Amoenum

This group is a good one to start with, because it includes basically any plant that doesn’t have distinct characteristics that put it in another category.

What they all have in common is that the leaves aren’t deeply lobed, and the foliage is green in the summer.

Beyond that, this group is related in that they all have leaves with seven distinct lobes.

Check out ‘Ōsakazuki’ for a good example of this variety. The bright green leaves have seven deep lobes and the margins of the leaves are deeply toothed.

In the fall, the foliage turns bright scarlet. Once mature, the tree is about 15 feet tall and wide.

Defining characteristics: Leaves are only lobed to half the blade or less, summer foliage color is green. Each leaf has seven lobes.

Atropurpureum

This category contains some of the most popular and recognizable Japanese maples. Basically, if a tree is upright with red foliage and it doesn’t fit under witches’-broom or linearilobum, you’ll find it here.

‘Bloodgood’ is perhaps the most famous cultivar of this category, and you’ll often find it for sale at nurseries and home supply stores. This tree grows about 20 feet tall and 15 feet wide.

The foliage is deep, dark red and the leaves are deeply lobed with five “fingers.”

‘Bloodgood’

By the way, if you want to bring home a ‘Bloodgood,’ Nature Hills Nursery carries them in quart-sized containers.

Defining characteristic: Summer foliage color is red or purple.

Aureum

Trees in the aureum category stand out because of the color of their foliage. The leaves are bright yellow or orange in the spring before turning yellow or lime green during the summer. They then fade to a pale chartreuse in the fall.

‘Golden Moon’ is an extremely popular option. It has foliage with seven or nine sharply pointed lobes, and grows to about 20 feet tall and wide.

‘Summer Gold’ stays under ten feet tall, and features leaves with seven or nine medium lobes.

‘Autumn Moon’ emerges in the spring with lime green leaves with a hint of orange before transitioning to burnt orange in the late summer.

In the autumn, the color becomes bright orange. The tree grows to about 18 feet tall and 15 feet wide when mature.

Defining characteristic: Summer foliage is yellow or orange.

Convexum

What makes this group unique is that the lobes of the leaves are convex, and many of them are deeply lobed.

‘Trompenburg’ is a perfect example. It has deeply lobed, dark maroon leaves, the lobes of which bend back from the midrib or veins. It stays under 20 feet tall.

Defining characteristic: Convex lobes.

Corallinum

This group features trees that never fail to draw attention with their bright pink foliage in the spring, before transitioning to bright red and then dark red with hints of green, or entirely green, in the summer.

A good example is ‘Deshōjō.’ It has striking bright pink leaves with green centers in the spring before turning bright red and then fading to green. The leaves have five or seven lobes.

‘Amber Ghost’ is another corallinum beauty, starting out bright pink and then fading to more of a melon color. In the summer, it turns green with some pink and red at the tips of the leaves.

In fall, the foliage changes again, becoming bright red and orange. It grows to about 15 feet tall and wide.

Enthusiasts in Japan call these plants “spring trees,” because that’s when the foliage really shines (and when they’re exhibited at bonsai shows).

Defining characteristics: Leaves are only lobed to half the blade or less, spring foliage color is pink or pinkish-red.

Crispum

The crispum group features leaves that are wrinkled or crinkled. Most of the trees stay fairly small, but a few grow to around ten feet tall.

‘Shishigashira’ (or ‘Lion’s Head’ in English) has small, crinkled, deeply-lobed green leaves.

This tree grows fairly tall for the category, to about 15 feet.

‘Krazy Krinkle’ has deeply lobed, wrinkled leaves with heavily toothed margins. This tree stays under ten feet tall.

‘Mikawa Yatsubusa’ is a dwarf maple that stays under four feet tall, with tightly packed and layered green foliage.

Defining characteristic: Wavy or curly leaf margins.

Dissectum

This group is a real stand-out because the foliage looks like lace from far away. Up close, you’ll see that the leaves have long, slender “fingers” that are deeply lobed.

In fact, the leaves are so deeply lobed that each division goes back to the base of the leaf, so they look like separate little leaves.

The leaves usually have heavily toothed margins, adding to the lace-like effect. Most plants have a weeping growth habit, but not all.

Vertrees wrote that ‘Tamukeyama’ was his favorite from this grouping. This tree stays under ten feet tall (usually closer to six feet) and has deep red, almost purple foliage that doesn’t fade in the summer.

In the fall, it turns bright, vibrant red.

‘Tamukeyama’

You can’t find a higher recommendation than that, so if you want to purchase one for your space, head to Maple Ridge Nursery. Choose from one-, three-, seven-, and 15-gallon containers.

‘Garnet’ stays under eight feet tall with characteristic dissectum leaves in deep maroon that turn bright garnet red in the fall.

‘Crimson Queen’ is another classic favorite. It has deeply toothed and lobed leaves in dark red, and a cascading growth habit. It stays compact, under ten feet tall.

‘Crimson Queen’

Nature Hills carries a “balled and burlapped” five- to six-foot tree that you can add to your landscape.

Defining characteristic: Deeply divided lobes with heavily toothed margins.

Linearilobum

You could almost mistake the trees in this category for bamboo. That’s because they have extremely narrow, deep lobes that aren’t deeply toothed, as those in the dissectum group are.

‘Koto No Ito’ is a typical example. The foliage on this gorgeous tree starts out red, transitions to apple green in the summer, and gradually becomes vibrant golden yellow in the fall.

It has a narrow, upright growth habit and tops out at ten feet.

Vertrees called out ‘Red Pygmy’ as one of his favorites from this group. This weeping tree grows to just six feet tall and wide, with red spring foliage that transitions to olive green in the summer.

When autumn arrives, the leaves become golden orange.

Defining characteristic: Deeply divided lobes with lightly toothed or smooth margins.

Matsumurae

The trees in this group have leaves with seven to nine lobed leaves, with sinuses that go all the way down to the base.

But instead of having long, thin lobes like linearilobum or dissectum, the lobes are more rounded. The margins are finely serrated.

Vertrees points to ‘Omurayama,’ as a nice example of this category. This variety is a 15-foot-tall tree with a cascading form.

The foliage starts out light green with hints of orange before turning green in the summer. In the fall, the leaves turn red, orange, and yellow.

Often you’ll see this type of Japanese maple called “fern leaf.”

Defining characteristic: Deeply divided lobes with wide sinuses, toothed margins, green summer color.

Marginatum

This group is made up of plants with variegated foliage.

What sets this grouping apart from variegatum, which also features trees with variegated foliage, is that the leaves have an extremely distinct contrast between the coloring on the margin and the center of the leaf.

To see a good example of this particular group, check out ‘Butterfly.’

The foliage on this tree has creamy white margins and a grayish-green center. In the spring, the margins might have some pink hues to them, and in the fall, the margins turn red.

The leaves have five lobes and the tree grows to be about 12 feet tall when mature.

‘Yama Nishiki,’ known as ‘Snow Peak’ in the West, has a distinct variegation with creamy white on the margins and medium green centers. Young leaves look slightly mottled before they form a stark contrast.

While most variegated Japanese maples are green, ‘Shirazz’ is primarily red. In the spring, the leaves are dark red with light pink margins, before turning slightly greenish-red in the center with pink margins. This cultivar grows up to 15 feet tall.

Defining characteristic: Leaf margin contrasts with center.

Palmatum

This group can be a little confusing, since the most common species of Japanese maples is A. palmatum. But in this case, this grouping can include other species as well.

The word “palmatum” is Latin for hand, and that’s what defines this group.

All of the leaves in this group resemble hands in that they have five lobes (and rarely seven), and the sinus extends no further than one-third down the length of the leaf.

Any plant that doesn’t have a secondary characteristic that would make it more suitable for a different grouping, such as red wood, is placed in this category.

‘Diana’ is a good example. This tree stays compact at under three feet. It has green foliage with a pink and white margin.

Defining characteristics: Leaf lobes extend no more than one-third the length of the leaf, with brown or green wood in the winter.

Pinebark

The name of this group says it all. Instead of having the typical smooth bark that most Japanese maples have, the bark on these trees is rough and looks a bit like – you guessed it – pine bark.

The foliage in this group is incredibly varied, since only the bark is used to categorize these plants. Most start out with smooth bark when they are young before developing the characteristically rough bark.

Check out ‘Nishiki Gawa,’ and ‘Arakawa’ to see what this bark looks like.

Defining characteristic: Pine-like, rough bark.

Red Wood

As with pinebark trees, this group is entirely defined by its bark. All of the trees in this group have bright red, coral, yellow, or orange branches.

While this adds a nice bit of color and contrast to a wintry landscape, these plants also tend to suffer from branch dieback.

‘Sango-kaku’ is the one you’ll most commonly see.

‘Sango-kaku’

It has bright coral bark that contrasts with the lime green leaves.

Maple Ridge Nursery carries this striking tree in one-, three-, seven-, 15-, and 25-gallon containers.

Defining characteristic: Bark is coral, orange, yellow, or red in winter.

Reticulatum

Trees in this group are defined as having leaves with veins that are a different color than the rest of the leaf. Also known as reticulated maples, this group has some real stand-outs.

For instance, ‘Nathan’ has orangish-red foliage with green veins. ‘Aka-shigitatsu-sawa’ starts out with pale pink leaves with green veins, before transitioning to green and red leaves with green veins.

‘First Ghost’ has creamy white or pale green leaves with deep green veins.

Defining characteristic: Leaf veins contrast with the rest of the leaf.

Sessilifolium

The plants in this group are defined by their lack of petioles. Sessile is a botanical term indicating the lack of a stalk. Instead, the lobes of each leaf have a sort of petiole-like structure that attaches them to the stem.

It doesn’t matter if the tree has variegated foliage or any other particular characteristic. If it lacks petioles, it’s a sessilifolium, also known as stalk-less maple.

Most of these trees are a bit more difficult to find, but there are a few that are gaining in popularity. ‘Beni-hagaromo’ has red foliage that turns purplish-brown in the summer.

Thanks to its heavily toothed margins and typical sessilifolium lobe attachment, the tree looks like it is covered in colorful feathers rather than leaves.

Defining characteristic: Sessile leaves.

Variegatum

Variegated maples either fit into this group or the marginatum group.

To call ‘Ukigumo’ a variegated plant doesn’t do it justice, though. This A. palmatum cultivar, also known as ‘Floating Clouds,’ looks almost ghostly white, with pale whitish-pink foliage that fades gradually to green in the center of each leaf.

But the center is more of a pink and white color with spots of deep green, rather than a solid green. The warmer the climate, the less variegation you’ll see, but in cooler climates, it’s quite striking.

Unlike some Japanese maples, which tend to revert at the slightest provocation, this one tends to stay true.

‘Kumoi Nishiki,’ also known as Siebold’s maple, (A. sieboldianum) has beautifully dappled leaves that feature a blend of creamy white and apple green. This plant stays under 10 feet tall.

‘Peaches and Cream’ stands out because the leaves are creamy white and rose pink in the spring, transitioning to green and white with dark green veins and rose pink margins in the summer.

This one stays under 10 feet tall.

Defining characteristic: Leaf is variegated beyond just the margins.

Witches’-Broom

While most Japanese maple leaves look like hands with a longer middle lobe, the central lobe on witches’-broom trees is short and stumpy, kind of like a hand with the middle finger cut off below the middle knuckle.

‘Carlis Corner Broom’ has bright pink leaves in the spring that shift to dark burgundy in the summer. By fall, the foliage is dark red. ‘Skeeter’s Broom’ has bright red foliage that turns bronze in the fall.

‘Vic’s Broom’ is a dwarf plant that tops out at four feet, but that doesn’t mean its impact in the garden is small.

The small, pale green leaves are bordered with rose red margins. In the fall, the foliage turns bright yellow with bits of orange and red.

Defining characteristic: Middle lobe is short and usually shorter than surrounding lobes.

Making Sense Out of Japanese Maples

This can be a confusing group of plants, with all the different species, foliage, growth habits, and bark colors that are available. But that’s just part of what makes Japanese maples so wonderful.

And with growers working hard to create new types of trees, there are sure to be even more interesting options coming down the line.

That’s why it’s so handy having them grouped into these easy-to-understand categories.

Now, the next time you head to the nursery, you can tell them that you’re looking for the perfect “red bark” to add some winter color to your yard.

If you’re like me, no doubt it’s impossible to pick a favorite, but let us know what type you’re hoping to get your hands on (or already have).

Did this guide help you make sense of the wild and wonderful world of Japanese maples? Let us know in the comments section below! And if you have trouble choosing, be sure to check out some of our favorites in our supplemental guide, “21 of the Best Japanese Maple Varieties.”

And we have some other great guides to Japanese maple care for you to check out next, starting with these:

Manhattan is a walking city—especially those streets lined with small trees, and interesting things growing in window boxes. These are the exception, however, and pounding the streets in summer means just that, with ferocious heat and very little greenery to speak of between Central Park and the High Line. Businesses that use flowers and foliage to adorn their premises tend to be in the wealthier (and greener) areas, spending money on temporary plantings that hold little appeal for a bird or insect. So it is inspiring to find people like Shanti Nagel, who sees the streets of New York as a potential garden, installing resilient natives that are chosen for their long term benefit.

Photography courtesy of Design Wild.

“We call these tough public plantings ‘Sidewalk Gardens’,” says Shanti Nagel, principal of Design Wild in New York. “We work alongside heavy foot, bus, and dog traffic; homeless populations; and high winds. We are cultivating the beauty of the natural world into unexpected spaces, as stewards of nature.”

As such, she is quick to dispense with the colorfully downbeat language of tree pits and “hell strips” (those unpaved ribbons between the sidewalk and street). “We are actively moving away from the idea that these locations are hellish or ‘pits’. Our work here is about dignity and beauty in the public arena, and by calling them gardens, we and our neighbors honor these landscapes as spaces that are returning to beauty.”

During the redevelopment of Hell’s Kitchen (a name that isn’t going anywhere), Shanti and her team have been planting trees and carving out sizable areas around them for perennial and woody plantings. These are predominantly native and therefore naturally programmed for survival. They have not gone unnoticed by locals: “We absolutely love the feedback from neighbors. My favorite is when someone explains how they have changed their whole pedestrian route through the city—just so they can walk down the blocks where our landscapes live,” says Shanti.

“They tell us that whenever they’re walking to work or school, to the shops or the bus stop, they make sure to walk the blocks with our plantings. And it changes their day. We have always known this power that plants have, and now science has proven it. Studies have shown that it’s the plants and trees that city dwellers see every day that has a profound effect on their mental health, lowering stress levels.

“I know our goldenrod and butterfly weed at the mouth of the Lincoln tunnel change people’s lives in small but profound ways.”

“We love our native plants. My designs are not 100 percent native but closer to 80 to 90 percent. I think this is terrific considering the locations we’re working in,” observes Shanti. “For me, it’s equal parts ecological health and human spirit health, and these plants are healers in both realms. American natives are the ancestors here on this land, even in midtown Manhattan traffic.”

The mainly native, permanent plantings established by Design Wild need less maintenance than conventional bedding flowers that are installed (and uninstalled) on a seasonal basis. They are also subject to a certain amount of experimentation, testing resilience in changing times. “I think that to be truly innovative and successful, especially as the climate changes, we all need to cultivate playfulness, try things, and not be afraid to fail. To push the envelope on plant choices and locations,” says Shanti. She recalls that during the spring of 2020, when public planting came to a halt, Design Wild’s street plantings (with 95 percent perennial plant material), carried on regardless. “The trees and shrubs leafed out, the perennials pushed up new growth. Things flowered; the bees and butterflies showed up.” she recalls. “As other public spaces remained empty with open soil, our plantings continued to flourish without human intervention.”

Today we’re visiting with Valerie Miller.

I am an artist and newish gardener. Three years ago I was a work-from-home artist and homeschool mom with three little boys (one, four, and seven years old) who spent more time crying than probably anything else. I felt trapped and guilty because I had beautiful healthy children I love more than anything but who I felt were suffocating me. (I no longer feel this way, but I did at the time!)

So in the spring of 2020 I started growing flowers with my kiddos and became obsessed with growing things. Slowly the flowers and soil have healed me and my issues, and I am happy, free, joyful, and a good mom.

And when three hard things came along—COVID shutdowns and then two big fires in less than a year at my business, art studio, and historical family building (we lived on the third floor for years until the third boy came along and we needed outside space)—I was already on my way to being able to handle stress with a clearer head. Gardening and the flowers had brought me back to myself. So while my husband dealt with fire cleanup for many, many months (twice), I ran to the flowers with the kids in tow.

After what I’ve just gone through, I’m turning my focus to spread as much joy as I can through flowers, gardening, and flower art—and letting others know that beauty and fresh air and flowers and digging in the dirt can help us tackle all sorts of hard things (even if we don’t want to tackle them).

Valerie with a stunning mass of flowers from the garden

This wagon load of flowers from the farm includes two buckets full of sunflowers (Helianthus annuus, annual) and one full of zinnias (Zinnia elegans, annual).

Another wagon full of blooms, along with a four-legged helper

It’s hard to beat dahlias (Dahlia × variabilis, Zones 8–10 or as a tender bulb). I love the warm peach color of this one.

Life as a mother of three running a flower farm—it looks like there is always a lot going on!

An incredible arrangement of flowers, all in soft, romantic shades

An example of the beautiful art Valerie creates, inspired by her flowers

If you want to see more from Valerie, check out her Instagram: @steelcowlavenderfarm

 

Have a garden you’d like to share?

Have photos to share? We’d love to see your garden, a particular collection of plants you love, or a wonderful garden you had the chance to visit!

To submit, send 5-10 photos to [email protected] along with some information about the plants in the pictures and where you took the photos. We’d love to hear where you are located, how long you’ve been gardening, successes you are proud of, failures you learned from, hopes for the future, favorite plants, or funny stories from your garden.

Have a mobile phone? Tag your photos on Facebook, Instagram or Twitter with #FineGardening!

Do you receive the GPOD by email yet? Sign up here.

Heptapleurum spp. (syn. Schefflera)

Fast-growing, adaptable, and tough, umbrella plants offer up a luscious tropical vibe with no fuss. No wonder you can find them in practically any nursery or houseplant retailer for a song!

We link to vendors to help you find relevant products. If you buy from one of our links, we may earn a commission.

If you’re looking for a houseplant that won’t drive you up the wall with its demands and delicate nature, this is it.

New to houseplants? Want to introduce your kids to raising plants? Pick an umbrella plant. They’re really that easy to care for.

Ready to learn more? Here’s everything we’ll go over. Notice that there’s not a single reference to Rihanna on the horizon…

Parasol plant, octopus tree, umbrella tree – whatever you call it, this classic houseplant has remained a constant favorite for years.

From solid-hued or variegated to dwarf or full-sized species and cultivars, you have all kinds of options to choose from. Let’s talk umbrellas!

Cultivation and History

The first identified species of umbrella plant was described by Hendrik van Rheede, naturalist and administrator of the Dutch East India Company.

He illustrated and described S. venulosa, a vining species, in the 1680s.

When Captain James Cook set out on his famous voyage in 1768, there were fewer than 10 identified species.

In the 19th century, European explorers started identifying these plants with more regularity. Fast-forward to the mid-1800s and examples were being brought to Europe to be studied and cultivated.

This genus seems as if it’s constantly being reclassified, so hold onto your hat because it’s going to be a bumpy ride to Botanical Taxonomy Town.

Right now, umbrella trees are classified in the Heptapleurum genus.

But most people still know them as Schefflera, named after Jacon Christian Scheffler, a German botanist and physician who practiced in the early 1700s.

Prior to that, they had multiple other taxonomic classifications, including Brassaia.

Whatever we’re calling them this week, these plants are native to Taiwan, South China, Australia, Java, and New Guinea.

There are two common species, H. arboricola, or the dwarf umbrella tree, and H. actinophylla, the standard-sized umbrella tree.

In most areas, dwarf umbrella trees are grown as houseplants indoors, where they usually reach about six to eight feet tall max.

Outdoors in ideal conditions these can reach up to 25 feet tall. The standard-sized species is about double that height outdoors and tops out at about 12 feet indoors.

They also produce clusters of bright yellow flowers when cultivated outdoors, but they rarely bloom indoors.

If you live in USDA Hardiness Zones 10 to 12, you can grow this plant outdoors year-round. Just check your local regulations because umbrella plants can become invasive.

These plants have palmately compound leaves, which means the leaflets radiate from a single central point.

You’ll often hear people call them “palm-like” leaves, as well, because they resemble a human hand with the fingers splayed out.

Propagation

On a scale of monstera (easy) to maidenhair fern (not so easy), umbrella trees fall solidly in the monstera end of the propagation spectrum.

They’re easy to propagate from cuttings or via air layering. Seeds are also easy, if slow, assuming that you have access to super fresh ones.

From Seed

It’s entirely possible to grow these plants from seed, but it’s not a reliable option unless you have access to seeds that were recently harvested.

You can usually locate them in places like Hawaii or Florida, where these plants are commonly cultivated outdoors. If you order online, make sure they’re fresh.

The seeds have a fairly low germination rate unless they’re exceptionally fresh. We’re talking under a week or so old. As they age, the germination rate drops dramatically.

Once you have your fresh seeds, place them in warm to hot water (90 to 140°F) and soak for at least 12 hours.

Fill four-inch containers with a fresh, water-retentive, loamy potting mix and sow one seed per container about half an inch deep.

If you want to be super cautious, plant two seeds per container in case one doesn’t germinate.

You can always pluck the weaker seedling out if two grow. Otherwise, just start twice as many pots as you think you’ll need if you have the seeds available to do so.

Water the medium well so it feels moist but not wet. Place the pot in bright, indirect light in a location that stays between 72 and 85°F.

If you live somewhere on the dry side, tent plastic over the container to help retain humidity.

Now, it’s time to hurry up and wait. It takes about a month for the seeds to germinate. During this time, you’ll need to keep the soil moist and don’t let it cool down. If temperatures drop below 72°F for too long, they won’t germinate.

Once the seedlings emerge, either prop up the plastic with a twig or chopstick so the seedlings don’t touch it, or remove it.

Continue to maintain soil moisture. Wait until the plants are a few inches tall before you transplant outdoors or into a larger, decorative pot.

From Cuttings

Many types of houseplants can be propagated by taking cuttings, and umbrella plants are definitely part of this group.

You can do this at any time of year, but the stem that you’re cutting must be at least as thick as a pencil.

Grab some sharp clippers or a grafting knife and wipe it down with soap and water. Take a cutting about four inches in length and cut it at a 45-degree angle.

You also want to make sure you get a growth node, which is the ring on the stem which the leaves emerge from, and at least one leaf.

Place the cutting in a three-inch pot filled with moistened seed-starting medium, or in a glass of room-temperature water. The leaf node needs to be submerged.

Keep the cutting in a warm area that is at least 70°F, with bright, indirect sunlight. After a month or so, the cutting should develop roots. In the meantime, your job is to keep the soil moist or change the water every few days to prevent mold.

You’ll be able to see this easily if you’re growing the cutting in water. If you’re growing in soil, give the plant a gentle tug and see if it resists. If so, you’ve got yourself some healthy roots under there!

Now you can transplant your cutting into a permanent pot.

Transplanting Seedlings and Potted Starts

Pretty much anyone selling houseplants carries umbrella trees.

You can nab the more common cultivars for a song. Once you bring yours home, isolate it for a week or so to ensure you’re not bringing any hitchhiking pathogens or pests along.

Whether you’re transplanting seedlings or rooted cuttings that you’ve propagated at home, or repotting nursery starts, the process here is essentially the same.

You don’t want to go up more than one size larger than the pot that the plant came in. An excessively large container increases the risk of root rot. Ensure that it has a hole in the bottom for drainage as well.

Fill your chosen container with a little potting soil. This type of plant enjoys a neutral pH, which is what most pre-mixed potting soils have, so don’t worry about amending the soil.

Take the seedling out of its original pot and knock away as much of the soil from the root ball as possible.

Place the plant at the same depth that it was in the pot. You can bury it just a touch deeper, but don’t bury the stem or you’ll increase the risk of rot.

Water well and let the soil settle a bit. Add more potting soil, if necessary.

Via Air Layering

Air layering is easiest in the spring when umbrella plants are actively growing with a long growing season ahead, but you can also do it in the summer or fall if you like. Just don’t try to air layer plants in the winter when they’re dormant.

To start, take a clean knife and look for an area on the stem between the leaf nodes. Make an inch-long cut, just slicing into the green outer layer but not all the way through into the center.

You want to gently lift up the green outer layer, but leave it attached at one end. Insert a toothpick into the slice that you made to prevent it from closing back up again.

Moisten a handful of sphagnum moss and wrap it around the stem where you made the cut. Wrap plastic wrap over this to hold the moss in place.

Secure at the top and the bottom with twine, zip ties, or string. I like to tape up the bottom but use string at the top so I can open it up and check the moisture level occasionally.

The moss needs to stay moist and the plant should be in a spot with temperatures around 70 to 80°F and bright, indirect light exposure.

Within a month or so, you should start to see roots growing in the moss.

When the plastic is about 50 percent full of roots, cut the stem off below the moss using a clean pair of clippers.

You want to separate the stem from the parent plant, with the new roots attached. Plant it in a container filled with potting medium.

How to Grow

As with many houseplants, these plants don’t love direct sunlight. However, they will tolerate a bit, just don’t leave them smack dab in the middle of a western-facing window in the summertime.

Ideally, give them bright but indirect sunlight like that filtered light you have in front of a south-facing window covered with sheer curtains. Too much shade will cause them to become leggy.

Wherever you place yours, turn it regularly to promote even growth.

If you live in a drafty, poorly insulated home in a region that experiences frigid winters, you’ll want to move this plant away from windows or doors.

Umbrella trees need temperatures above 55°F to be happy, though brief exposure to anything above freezing is fine.

Just as you should err on the side of providing too much sun rather than too little, umbrella trees should be kept on the drier side. They prefer consistently moist soil that dries out an inch deep between watering.

If you stick a finger in the soil and it feels soggy, don’t water. Wait until it feels dry to your first knuckle. That’s the time to add water.

If you’re uncertain, wait. Your plant will be fine with occasional, brief dry spells. But it won’t be okay if it has soggy roots with any regularity.

Umbrella trees aren’t big feeders, but you’ll want to give them a little something every few months from spring through fall. Any mild houseplant fertilizer will do.

Dr. Earth Pump & Grow

Dr. Earth Pump & Grow is a balanced option that’s extremely mild, and it comes with a convenient pump so you can squeeze a little into your watering can and apply it when you do your routine watering.

Pick up 16 ounces at Arbico Organics.

Growing Tips

• Place in bright, indirect light and rotate regularly.
• Keep them away from drafty doors and windows during the cold months.
• Fertilize every two to three months during the growing season.

Pruning and Maintenance

These plants are prone to becoming leggy. Prevention is better than the cure, so keep your plant in bright enough light and rotate it regularly.

In addition, it really helps to take umbrella trees outside during the warmer months. The changing breezes encourage the plants to develop stronger stems and to put out additional branches.

You might even get some flowers if you let them live outside for a bit!

Umbrella plants can grow outside in Zones 10 to 12 full time, and anywhere else so long as temperatures don’t dip down to 35°F – they’ll be fine if the temperature drops that low one night here or there, but not if it happens with any regularity.

When nighttime temps are above 60°F, they will be perfectly happy.

Indoors, they tend to be a little weaker and more straggly. If your plant becomes a bit leggy despite your best efforts, and the canopy is becoming sparse and thin, prune some of the stems back to about six inches above the soil.

Don’t prune the whole thing all at once. It will probably survive, but it’s better to be safe than sorry. Avoid pruning more than half of the overall growth at a time.

You can also use a stake to provide some support if the plants are becoming large and wobbly to help limit how much you need to prune to keep them under control.

Losing the lower leaves in time is a normal aspect of this plant’s growth habit, giving it a tree-like appearance with an umbrella-shaped canopy.

To encourage bushier growth as the new stuff emerges, pinch the tips every few weeks.

Dust the leaves regularly. It’s an easy chore to forget but it has a major impact on the health of your plant.

Species and Cultivars to Select

While there aren’t too many cultivars commonly available (yet), there are some lovely variegated cream or yellow types out there if you’re looking for a little variety.

Actinophylla

This is the original, large-sized species. It can be a bit more difficult to find than the dwarf species and its cultivars.

But if you want a plant that has extremely large leaves and can be grown as an indoor tree, pick this one.

Umbrella Tree

Feeling the big, boldness of it all? Fast Growing Trees carries three- to four- or four- to five-foot-tall trees.

Compacta

‘Compacta’ is an H. arboricola cultivar with a dense growth habit.

It stays even smaller than its dwarf parent and rarely grows more than four feet tall.

Gold Capella

‘Gold Capella’ is another H. arboricola and another wildly popular option (in addition to the dwarf species) and there’s no mystery as to why.

The leaves are dramatically variegated with bright golden-yellow and deep green hues.

Janine

A personal favorite of mine, this H. arboricola cultivar has creamy white variegation on a dwarf plant with petite leaves.

It stays under four feet tall.

Trinette

‘Trinette’ is heavily variegated with yellow, white, and green leaves.

In bright light, some of the leaves of this H. arboricola cultivar might be entirely yellow and white, or nearly so, with splotches of green on the margins.

‘Trinette’

Bring home a three-foot-tall ‘Trinette’ plant from Fast Growing Trees.

Managing Pests and Disease

Unless they’re stressed by poor environmental conditions like too little light or too much water, umbrella trees are rarely visited by pests or pathogens.

Even when I’ve had pest problems on my houseplants, the uninvited critters fed on apparently tastier species like my alocasias and African violets.

Insects

Nothing unusual to worry about here. Just be on the lookout for these common houseplant pests:

Mealybugs

Mealybugs (family Pseudococcidae) are incredibly common, feeding on all kinds of houseplant species.

While umbrella trees probably aren’t their first choice, they will use their tiny, sap-sucking mouthparts to feed on these plants.

When that happens, it causes the leaves to become discolored with yellow stippling and, if there are enough bugs, growth will be stunted.

These pests are often mistaken for a sign of disease because they move so slowly, and some of them are covered in a waxy, cotton-like coating that looks like a fungus.

You can deal with these pests in the usual manner. That includes hand picking them or trimming badly infested branches off.

Additionally, you can try wiping them with isopropyl alcohol. If all else fails, it’s time to break out the insecticidal soap.

Our guide has more information to help you tackle a mealybug problem.

Scale

Scale insects are wingless little jerks from the order Hemiptera.

Like mealybugs, they use their drinking-straw-like mouthparts to feed on the sap of plants. This feeding turns the leaves yellow and makes the plant wilt and droop.

They can vary in appearance depending on whether they’re armored or soft, but they’re generally oval-shaped and somewhat flat. They move slowly and tend to cluster in groups.

If you catch an infestation quickly, you can just take a butterknife and gently scrape them off into a bowl of soapy water. For more tips, read our article on dealing with scale.

Spider Mites

If you notice your plant looking dry and the leaves appear to be kind of stippled yellow and sad, examine your plant closely. You might see lots of fine webbing on the leaves and stems.

This webbing will likely be filled with little dots, which are the cast-off exoskeletons of spider mites.

Spider mites like dry conditions. If you keep your plant moist and humid, you’ll rarely have to worry about them. But they’re pretty common, so never say never!

If you notice the tell-tale signs of these pests, read our guide to managing spider mite infestations to learn how to cope.

Disease

More often than not, you’ll run into problems caused by the wrong environmental conditions rather than disease. In fact, indoor plants rarely experience infections.

But there are environmental issues like too much water or low temperatures that can cause problems.

For instance, if a branch suddenly turns black and falls off, it’s probably due to cold damage.

Maybe you accidentally left the plant outside on a chilly night or the heat was turned off. Within a week, exposure to low temperatures causes the leaves to turn black, shrivel up, and fall off.

So long as the roots didn’t die, new growth will replace the stuff that fell off. Just give it time and trim off any of the dead stuff.

Too much water, on the other hand, simply drowns the roots, suffocating them. Root rot may sometimes involve a bacterial or fungal pathogen, but not always.

The plant will wilt and the leaves will start to turn black, beginning at the tips. Back off with the watering and make sure the drainage hole in your pot isn’t blocked.

Best Uses

Most people just let their umbrella plant stand out as a specimen either indoors or outside in a container.

You can also use them to make bonsai. Or, get creative and use yours as a backdrop for some vining or shorter plants.

Quick Reference Growing Guide

Plant Type:	Tropical evergreen tree	Flower/Foliage Color:	Yellow/green, yellow, white, variegated
Native to:	Australia, Java, New Guinea, South China, Taiwan	Maintenance:	Low
Hardiness (USDA Zones):	10-12	Tolerance	Some drought
Bloom Time/Season:	Evergreen (summer blooms outdoors)	Water Needs:	Moderate
Exposure:	Partial sun or partial shade (outdoors); bright, indirect light (indoors)	Soil Type:	Loamy
Time to Maturity:	Up to 30 years outdoors	Soil pH:	6.0-7.0
Planting Depth:	1/2 inch (seeds), same as container (transplants)	Soil Drainage:	Well-draining
Height:	Up to 8 feet indoors	Family:	Araliaceae
Spread:	Up to 6 feet indoors	Genus:	Heptapleurum syn. Schefflera
Common Pests and Diseases:	Mealybugs, scale, spider mites; root rot	Species:	Canadensis, chinenis, occidentalis, siliquastrum

Umbrella Trees Are the Ultimate Easy Houseplants

With their tropical vibes and easy-going nature, umbrella plants have earned a place in the houseplant hall of fame.

Is this your first time growing this type of plant? Or are you here looking for new ideas to help your plant thrive? Fill us in below, in the comments section.

Where one houseplant is good, many are better. If you want to expand your indoor jungle, these guides can help make it happen:

I looked out the dining room window on Sunday afternoon and realized the black cherry tree outside was putting on new leaves.

We are now within the critical time period for establishing a garden here in Lower Alabama.

After seeing the cherry tree, I had to look up the last frost date, as I knew it must be close.

Out in the food forest, the mulberries and pomegranates are waking up after their winter sleep.

This is a difficult time and fraught with danger, as we are often subject to late freezes that can undo the best gardening plans.

If you don’t plant early, the weather gets too hot for your cool-season vegetables, such as cabbages, kohlrabi, radishes, English peas, potatoes, beets, carrots, broccoli, lettuce, spinach, onions and turnips.

Look at this weather!

You’d think we’d be fine planting corn, pumpkins, green beans, okra, melons, tomatoes, eggplants, peppers and all the good crops of summer.

And we might be.

But we also might not be. One night below 32 – which is likely before the end of March – and POW! That work is done.

Yet the weather is also getting too hot and humid for many summer crops by June/July. And the bugs! They come in swarms to destroy your hard work as the days warm and lengthen.

This time right now is key for getting in the cool-season plants and preparing to start the warmer plants. In the greenhouse right now we have zinnias and marigolds, tomatoes and eggplants, peppers, cabbage, Jamaican sorrel, tobacco and more, safely getting a head start on the spring garden.

We could have started more cool-season vegetables more than a month ago. But we weren’t ready. Now the time is short!

Outside of the vegetable garden, it’s time to start grafting pears. There are wild Bradford pears all over the place which we’re going to re-graft with good fruiting pears.

It’s also time to propagate bamboo. One of the clumping types on the property is putting up new shoots. If we catch it now we can divide some off to plant elsewhere.

We also have bare-root fruit trees that need planting.

And some dormant trees in pots that should go in the ground before they awaken.

And apple trees that are waking up, which need to be mulched and have the grass cleaned up from around them.

And the Grocery Row Gardens need the weeds of winter pulled before the shoots of ginger, Jerusalem artichokes, cassava, potatoes and other roots start appearing.

Everything happens all at once! It’s an exciting time.

A good start now sets the pace for the rest of the year.

Share this post!

Are you looking for Earth Day quotes to help you join in with the annual celebration of our planet?

In this article we’ve gathered together 65 brilliant Earth Day quotes and Earth Day slogans that will inspire and educate.  Whether you need a simple Earth Day quote, Earth Day captions for a social media post (check out our lists of nature hashtags for those too), some inspiring Earth Day slogans, or save the earth quotes, this list of Earth Day quotes will help you get the message across.

What is Earth Day?

Earth Day is celebrated around the world each year on 22nd April.

The focus of Earth Day is to encourage people to think about our planet and how we can look after it.  As well as being an ideal day to spread the word about climate change and environmental causes, it’s also the perfect opportunity to take some time to appreciate and celebrate nature in all its glory.

For more information on Earth Day, head over to www.earthday.org.  And if you’re celebrating Earth Day with children, take a look at our list of Earth Day activities for kids for lots of fun ideas.

The best Earth Day quotes

Ready to celebrate Earth Day?  These lovely quotes about Earth Day and Earth Day messages will inspire you and get you thinking.

You can also find lots of other nature-themed quotes in our roundups of nature quotes, tree quotes, sunflower quotes, flower quotes and garden quotes.  

World Earth Day quotes to celebrate nature

Celebrate nature with these Earth Day messages.

“Study nature, love nature, stay close to nature. It will never fail you.” – Frank Lloyd Wright

“I go to nature to be soothed and healed, and to have my senses put in order.” – John Burroughs

“If you will stay close to nature, to its simplicity, to the small things hardly noticeable, those things can unexpectedly become great and immeasurable.” – Rainer Maria Rilke

“My wish is to stay always like this, living quietly in a corner of nature.” – Claude Monet

“To walk in nature is to witness a thousand miracles.” – Mary Davis

“Nature is an infinite sphere of which the centre is everywhere and the circumference nowhere.” – Blaise Pascal

“For in the true nature of things, if we rightly consider, every green tree is far more glorious than if it were made of gold and silver.” – Martin Luther King Jr.

Beautiful Earth day quotations

Our earth is beautiful, so it’s no surprise that there are lots of Earth Day quotes celebrating its beauty.

“Forget not that the earth delights to feel your bare feet and the winds long to play with your hair.”– Khalil Gibran

“Those who find beauty in all of nature will find themselves at one with the secrets of life itself.” – L. Wolfe Gilbert

“Nature is painting for us, day after day, pictures of infinite beauty if only we have the eyes to see them.” – John Ruskin

“Look at a tree, a flower, a plant. Let your awareness rest upon it. How still they are, how deeply rooted in Being. Allow nature to teach you stillness.” – Eckhart Tolle

“In nature, nothing is perfect and everything is perfect.” – Alice Walker

“The miracle is not to fly in the air or to walk on water, but to walk on the earth.” – Chinese proverb

Inspiring Earth Day quotes

Looking for an Earth Day quotation that really inspires positive action?  Here are our favourites.

“Everything in nature invites us constantly to be what we are.” – Gretel Ehrlich

“In all things of nature there is something of the marvellous.” – Aristotle

“We still do not know one thousandth of one percent of what nature has revealed to us.” – Albert Einstein

“There’s a whole world out there, right outside your window. You’d be a fool to miss it.” – Charlotte Eriksson

“Those who contemplate the beauty of the earth find reserves of strength that will endure as long as life lasts.” – Rachel Carson

“Nature is not a place to visit. It is home.” – Gary Snyder

More inspirational world Earth Day slogans

“Nature does not hurry, yet everything is accomplished.” – Lao Tzu

“An understanding of the natural world and what’s in it is a source of not only a great curiosity but great fulfilment.” – David Attenborough

“Adopt the pace of nature. Her secret is patience.” – Ralph Waldo Emerson

“Humankind has not woven the web of life. We are but one thread within it. Whatever we do to the web, we do to ourselves. All things are bound together… all things connect.” – Chief Seattle

“The Earth is what we all have in common.” – Wendell Berry

“You cannot get through a single day without having an impact on the world around you. What you do makes a difference, and you have to decide what kind of difference you want to make.” – Jane Goodall

Save the earth quotes

Get the message across with these save the planet quotes.

“Preserve and cherish the pale blue dot, the only home we’ve ever known.” – Carl Sagan

“Leave nothing but footprints; take nothing but pictures; kill nothing but time.” – John Kay

“The most environmentally friendly product is the one you didn’t buy.” – Joshua Becker

“We don’t inherit the earth from our ancestors, we borrow it from our children.” – Native American proverb

“To leave the world better than you found it, sometimes you have to pick up other people’s trash.” – Bill Nye

“First thing in the morning you look after yourself, you brush your teeth and wash your face, don’t you? Well, the second thing you must do is to look after the planet.” – Antoine De Saint-Exupéry

More save nature quotes

“For most of history, man has had to fight nature to survive; in this century he is beginning to realise that, in order to survive, he must protect it.” – Jacques-Yves Cousteau

“Look after the land and the land will look after you, destroy the land and it will destroy you.” – Aboriginal Proverb

“We are on Earth to take care of life. We are on Earth to take care of each other.” – Xiye Bastida

“Look deep into nature, and then you will understand everything better.” – Albert Einstein

“Take only what you need and leave the land as you found it.” – Arapaho proverb

“Never doubt that a small group of thoughtful, committed citizens can change the world. Indeed, it’s the only thing that ever has.” – Margaret Mead

Short Earth Day quotes

If you’d like to keep it simple, these short quotes about Earth Day are perfect.

“All we have to do is to wake up and change.” – Greta Thunberg

“The good man is the friend of all living things.” – Gandhi

“The earth has music for those who listen.” – William Shakespeare

“If you can’t be in awe of Nature, there’s something wrong with you.” – Alex Trebek

“Nature is cheaper than therapy.” – M. P. Zarella

“The beauty of the natural world lies in the details.” – Natalie Angier

Mother earth quotes

“Let us permit nature to have her way. She understands her business better than we do.” – Michel de Montaigne

“Nature’s music is never over; her silences are pauses, not conclusions.” – Mary Webb

“Nature is our mother.” – Latin proverb

“Earth rejoices our words, breathing and peaceful steps. Let every breath, every word and every step make the mother earth proud of us.” – Amit Ray

Happy earth day quotes

Use these quotes to wish someone a Happy Earth Day.

“I believe a leaf of grass is no less than the journey-work of the stars.” – Walt Whitman

“The world is mud-luscious and puddle-wonderful.” – E. E. Cummings

“Choose only one master – nature.” – Rembrandt

“I thought I was pretty cool until I realised plants can eat sun and poop out air.” – Jim Bugg

Simple Earth Day slogans in English

All of these slogans make brilliant earth day instagram captions.

If you love the Earth it will love you back.

Make every day Earth Day.

Dare to be a force of nature.

Earth loves you.  Love it back.

The Earth Day Challenge.  One we can’t afford to lose.

Save our planet, save ourselves.

Nurture nature.

There is no planet B.

Earth Day slogans that rhyme

Earth Day is the only way.

Earth Day is our day.

Every Day is Earth Day.

Earth Day is here to stay.

Earth Day: join the fight, do what’s right.

Green Earth, Clean Earth.

Earth Day every day.

Are you feeling inspired to celebrate Earth Day?

We hope these Earth Day quotes have left you feeling uplifted, inspired and ready to take action to protect our wonderful planet.

If you’d like to spread the word about Earth Day you can share this post using the buttons below.

If you’ve enjoyed this post and found it useful, here are some ways you can say thanks and support Growing Family:

🌻 Click here to buy me a virtual coffee.

🌻 Click here to sign up to my newsletters and get regular updates straight to your inbox.

🌻 Join my Nature Crafts & Play Facebook group here where we share lots of great tips and ideas for exploring and enjoying nature with children.

🌻 Follow me on social media: Instagram | Facebook | Twitter

🌻 Share this post with your friends via the buttons below.

Pin for later

Some people believe in tomato companion plants, and others think it is some old wives’ tale.

Growing friendly plants together is said to help grow, produce more flavor of tomatoes, and protect fruits and vegetables from insects and pests.

Companion planting has long been a practice of experienced gardeners.

A great deal of scientific documentation also points to the benefits of selecting plants that do well in each other’s company.

mart companion planting helps you make the most of your gardening space and provides various benefits to your plants.

Proper plant combinations in the garden can help deflect pests or insects and improve the flavor of your crops.

Apart from these, some plants shelter tomatoes by being a good host for beneficial insects. This article will discuss some of the best tomato companion plants.

The list of good companions for tomatoes includes:

• Carrots
• Borage
• Chives
• Onions
• Garlic
• Mint
• Leaf lettuce
• Marigolds
• Nasturtium – are planted as a “trap crop” to attract or lure pests away from tomatoes.
• Asparagus – is known for clearing the soil of root-knot nematodes.
• Basil
• Peppers
• Sage
• Parsley
• Amaranth
• Celery
• Cosmos
• Cucumber
• Radishes, and more.

Read on to expand your knowledge about these companion plants and how they benefit your beloved tomato plants and tomato crops.

Consider adding them to your vegetable garden to experience their wonderful benefits.

Here’s our list of what to plant with tomatoes and what not to plant with tomatoes.

Food Crops

Lettuce is a good companion plant for tomatoes in many ways, and it only makes sense to grow your leaf lettuce alongside your tomatoes.

Lettuce makes a nice ground cover that acts as a live mulch to hold moisture in the soil and keep the garden soil cool.

Lettuce also helps prevent the spread of disease and damage caused to tomato leaves by water splashing up from the soil.

In return, lettuce and other leafy green vegetables, such as spinach and arugula, can benefit from the shades of the taller tomato plants.

The tomato also keeps the lettuce safe from worms that chew on its leaves.

Also, lettuces from the Asteraceae family should not be assumed to have the same benefits as cabbages from the Brassica family. These two possess different effects when planted with tomato plants.

Related Reading – A collection of Questions and Answers on Growing Tomatoes.

Companion planting radishes and tomatoes in the garden will benefit both plants. Radishes can repel cucumber beetles, flea beetles, and other common pests.

Carrots are nice to plant with tomatoes. They do not necessarily benefit the tomatoes, but having fresh carrots throughout the growing season is good.

Plant carrots or whatever crop alongside your tomatoes early on.

Once you have exhausted the carrots, plant another at the end of the growing season. You can plant carrots along with young tomato plants and harvest the carrots before the tomato roots start to spread.

The combo of carrots and tomatoes makes an ideal solution to increase the yield despite the limited space available.

Companion planting beans with tomatoes creates a harmonious vibe in your garden.

Although they do well together, you must remember the space they need while planting. Both also require enough attention for this combination to thrive.

If you are companion planting tomatoes with pole beans, trellis the beans on the north side of the tomatoes.

This way, a vegetative wall will form, giving pole beans and tomatoes the extra heat they crave.

You must also know that beans can produce their own nitrogen. If you plan to apply fertilizers to your tomato plant, remember not to give the same amount to the beans to avoid being over-fertilized.

Other best companions for beans include:

• Squash
• Radishes
• Celery
• Cucumbers
• Rosemary
• Potatoes
• Strawberries
• Beets and more

Sweet peppers and hot peppers do very well in combination with tomatoes. As with carrots, they do not particularly benefit the tomatoes. They grow harmoniously, probably because they belong to the nightshade family. Still, having a garden full of fresh peppers is nice.

Companion planting peppers and tomatoes in a garden serve as a practical decision.

As both beg for the same kind of care, administering their needs, such as the amount of sunlight, watering, and nutrient distribution, will come easily.

Alliums

Onions and their kinfolk are great for cooking and adding to salads and sandwiches.

They also work well to help repel Japanese beetles and other types of beetles and other range of pests such as tomato aphids, snails, and slugs.

Chives taste great in salads and soups. As companion plants, chives also help repel a number of undesirable pests and insects, such as cabbage worms, slugs, aphids, and all manner of beetles.

Apart from these, chives also improve the taste of nearby tomatoes.

Garlic is another member of the allium family that is excellent for adding flavor to many different kinds of foods.

Because of its natural anti-inflammatory and antibiotic properties, it is also a very useful medicinal plant.

Like its kinsmen, it does a good job of repelling a wide variety of vegetable garden insects and pests.

Specifically, garlic repels spider mites and aphids, making it a real-life saver for tomatoes.

Related Reading – Would you like sweeter tomatoes? Serious tomato growers have been using “Epsom salt on tomatoes plants” as a secret sauce for sweeter and tastier tomatoes.

Want more of what grows well with tomatoes?

Herbs As Companion Plants For Tomatoes

Basil and tomatoes are very tasty together, and basil is a delightful, attractive, aromatic addition to your tomato garden.

In fact, planting this herb and fruit side-by-side helps enhance the flavor of both.

Basil and tomatoes mature at about the same rate, so it is easy to have plenty of fresh tomatoes and fresh basil to enjoy at the same time.

Basil is good for repelling tomato hornworm caterpillars, flies, and mosquitoes.

If you like pasta with different sauces, a combo of basil and tomatoes in your garden is ideal. You need to get the basil leaves or the tomato fruits from your own garden.

Parsley is also one of the herbs that greatly benefit its companion plants.

Although asparagus appears the most beneficial, tomatoes will also enjoy the spirit of parsley herbs around them.

The scent of parsley attracts hummingbirds and butterflies necessary for pollination and better quality flowers and fruits.

Borage is a nice green herb that tastes somewhat like cucumbers. Use herbs or flowers as an addition to green drinks, soups, and salads.

Planted with tomatoes in containers, borage herbs repel tomato hornworms and other insects.

UrbanTurnip has an excellent resource for growing vegetables in containers here.

Sage is a deeply scented herb that is excellent for cooking and preparing flavored vinegar, dressing, gravy, etc.

It repels a wide variety of garden pests, including those aiming for early tomato reaping, making it a good companion for tomatoes.

Related: Have you ever wondered Why Tomatoes Crack? This article explains it!

Want to know what to plant next to tomatoes?

Flowers

Marigolds are excellent at repelling several different varieties of garden pests. The French marigold’s cheery presence in your garden produces a substance (alpha–terthienyl) that repels, prevents or gets rid the soil of root-knot nematodes.

In fact, French Marigolds produce this substance in abundance, and it protects the soil for years, even if the marigolds are gone.

More on marigold companion plants.

Besides nematodes, marigolds’ pungent smell removes pests such as tomato worms, thrips, aphids, and even rabbits!

Calendula plant is similar to Marigold in appearance; however, it does not repel pests or insects.

It is a medicinal plant that can be used to create soothing homemade salves, balms, and lotions.

It has very powerful anti-inflammatory properties that help with skin rashes and irritation and support the quick healing of minor injuries.

The marigolds’ leaves and flowers are edible and make a good ingredient in a salad served with tomatoes.

Nasturtiums have lovely yellow and orange flowers that are edible. The leaves of the nasturtium are also edible.

Your vegetable garden can benefit if you plant Nasturtiums with some of your crops, such as tomatoes, peas, beans, cabbage, and leaf lettuce.

Nasturtium makes a nice addition to salads. The nasturtium plant is known for repelling a wide variety of garden and common tomato pests.

This long list of pests to repel includes squash bugs, beetles, aphids, spider mites, and whiteflies while at the same time keeping fungal diseases in control.

Plant nasturtium seeds during early spring in moist, well-drained soil in your garden to keep them growing and alive.

Asparagus or garden asparagus, considered a flowering perennial plant, comes as a spring vegetable that makes a good companion for the tomato plant.

The asparagus repels nematodes, while the tomato repels the asparagus beetles.

This combo of asparagus and tomatoes works great as they not only drive away pests, but both plants keep the land exclusive for them alone by preventing the growth of weeds.

Also, asparagus makes a great addition to salad and other dishes, with tomatoes as one of the ingredients.

The above are great companion planting with tomatoes.

Make The Most Of Your Tomato Garden

Companion planting can benefit your tomato plants and is separately beneficial to you. Making the most of your growing space will help you to reap a better and more abundant harvest.

Apart from these, correct companion planting may attract beneficial insects into your garden that feed on pests such as:

… and more

All of the plants mentioned here are very easy to grow, but you will surely wish to venture forth and explore other types as you become more and more experienced with good companion planting.

You’ve probably heard the term “in sync” used when things run smoothly. One tool used in a successful garden, especially an organic one, is called “companion planting.”

It’s a smart “planting tool” to keep things running “in sync” in the garden. Planting vegetables that play well together.

Bad Companion Plants For Tomatoes

If you disregard the amazing benefits of companion planting, at least know which vegetables, crops, or plants can wreak havoc and potentially harm your tomato plants instead of protecting them.

This group of bad companion plants includes cabbage or anything from the cabbage family, corn, dill, fennel, eggplants, and walnuts.

Cabbage may seem to belong to the same family as leaf lettuce, which works as a good companion plant for tomatoes.

However, cabbages do the exact opposite. Cabbage goes under a different family of cruciferous vegetables, Brassica family.

On the other hand, leaf lettuce falls under the category of leafy greens with arugula and spinach.

Under the same cabbage family, these members are not suitable for tomatoes:

• Broccoli
• Brussel sprouts
• Kale
• Cauliflower
• Rutabaga
• Turnip
• Kohlrabi

Companion planting cabbage with tomatoes and these vegetables won’t do any good. However, there exist some plants that love cabbages, such as:

• Beets
• Celery
• Onions
• Bush beans
• Marigold
• Nasturtium
• A few strong herbs

If you have already planted cabbage and tomatoes together in your garden, avoid the latter from severely shading the cabbages.

They should stay a few feet away to avoid the tomato roots from reaching the cabbage. Apart from this, cabbages get the most benefits from tomatoes.

The tomato plant can drive away moth larvae and caterpillars that feed on the leaves of cabbages.

Corn planted with tomatoes spells a huge disaster. Corn worms are no different from what gardeners call the tomato hornworm when it comes to pests.

Corn attracts more of these tomato hornworms, putting the two plants together in one setting will kill them two times faster.

Although the young dills may help protect the tomato plant from tomato hornworms, planting a mature dill nearby inhibits the growth of the tomato.

Make sure to keep a good distance between the seed of dills and tomatoes in your garden when planting.

Eggplants and potatoes do not work well with the tomato plant if these plants sit very close to each other.

Early and late blight will accumulate in the garden soil, making it unhealthy soil for different plants in the years to come.

Apart from the dill plant, fennel also stunts the growth of the tomato plant. On the other hand, walnuts promote the same effect with its allelopathic element experts call juglone.

This chemical causes walnut wilt, a disease making tomatoes sick, causing them to wilt and die.

Other plants containing juglone include:

• English walnut
• Persian walnut
• Black walnut
• Hickory
• Pecan
• Butternut

In Closing

Integrating companion plants with your tomato growing is an excellent way to promote the healthy growth of tomatoes.

It can improve tomato yields but also adds variety to a garden dominated by one type of fruit or vegetable.

Experimenting with different combinations is an informative process. It teaches anyone companion planting basics while increasing the yield and beauty of their garden.

What is wild, green, tastes like a garlic-laced spring, and heralds a new season of foraged flavor? Did you guess ramps? Or did someone whisper, “Field garlic…?” Field garlic it is (or wild chives, or lawn chives… it has many names). And, ramp fans? Field garlic’s bulbs may be smaller than native ramps’, but its leaves are giddily aromatic, bountiful, and easy to use and to preserve. And then there is the S-word: Sustainability. Weedy field garlic is the more sustainable of the two wild onions. It’s time for field garlic to be heralded at market with the same fanfare that the first ramps inspire.

Here’s why.

Photography by Marie Viljoen.

As more people are learning—and many have known for a while—ramps (Allium tricoccum and subspecies) are a relatively slow-growing native plant, distributed across the Eastern parts of the United States and Canada (similarly-named ramsons are Allium uva-ursi, native to Europe). While some wild ramp populations are healthy, and some ramp vendors do harvest and tend their own ramp habitats with care, many are vulnerable or threatened due to habitat loss and, increasingly, to commercial over-collection (and demand) for market.

(Necessary digression: There is an ideal method to collect ramp bulbs—just the most mature bulb in a clump, sliced above the root—yet few professional foragers practice it because it’s time-consuming. Better yet, only ramp leaves should brought to market; this is how ramsons are sold in Europe. Read more about the ramp issue, and how to cultivate them in our 2022 ramp story.)

Not many people appreciate that field garlic—Allium vineale, an introduced weed native to Europe— packs approximately the same punch as ramps in terms of flavor. But a few prescient farmers’ market vendors are beginning to sell field garlic. When you place a price tag on a plant previously taken for granted, or dismissed, it suddenly becomes very interesting and desirable.

Field garlic is almost indistinguishable from chives. Its clumps of cylindrical green leaves begin to appear as autumn shortens days and brings colder nights. It persists through winter, before growing taller and very lush as spring progresses. Peak field garlic season is early to mid-spring. The plants grow in the sunshine of deciduous woods, in open fields, and in lawns. They  disappear (like ramps) into summer dormancy after sending up tall, tiny flower heads, like miniature ornamental alliums on a really bad hair day.

Field garlic can be cultivated, too, if foraging for the plant is unappealing. Growing the plants in a kitchen garden in the same way as chives makes for easy access to their more-strongly-flavored leaves and bulbs. I find it hard to feel guilty about growing a plant condemned as a weed, since in this case it tastes wonderful, and can hardly escape the confines of a bed (unlike invasive plants that are dispersed via fruits or wind-blown seeds).  And whose herb garden is stuffed with native plants, anyway? How a plant is perceived is everything.

To cultivate your own, transplant some field garlic from where you find it growing opportunistically. Grown in good soil in high shade or full sun, the plants will thrive.

My name is Hannah, and I garden in Zone 4, in southeastern Minnesota. I have a full-sun garden that I started in 2017 when we built our home on our 30-acre farm. I love starting all my annuals and most of my perennials from seed in our free house. It saves money and allows me to plant big-impact plantings. The winters are long but great for garden planning. These photos are from spring last year.

I love planting bulbs because they are so wonderful to look forward to.

So much cheery color from bulbs!

Allium ‘Purple Sensation’ (Zones 3–9)

Catmint (Nepeta × faassenii, Zones 3–8), with a blooming plum tree behind

I have serviceberry (Amalanchier sp., Zone 4 – 8), and I love the way the trunks look with plants under them.

Birch tree (Betula nigra, Zones 4–9) with tulips (Tulipa hybrid, Zones 3–8)

Bleeding heart (Dicentra spectabilis, Zones 2–8) with Virginia bluebells (Mertensia virginica, Zones 3–8) behind it

Alpine lady’s mantle (Alchemilla alpina, Zones 4–7) is smaller than the more common Alchemilla mollis (Zones 3–8) and has serrated leaves. It is pictured here with ‘Elijah Blue’ fescue (Festuca glauca ‘Elijah Blue’, Zones 4–8).

Penstemon digitalis ‘Huskers Red’ (Zones 3–8) beside a feather reed grass (Calamagrostis × acutiflora, Zones 5–8)

If you want to see more of this garden, check out the last time Hannah shared with us on the GPOD (Hannah’s Flower Garden), as well as her Instagram: @hannahs_garden_journal

 

Have a garden you’d like to share?

Have photos to share? We’d love to see your garden, a particular collection of plants you love, or a wonderful garden you had the chance to visit!

To submit, send 5-10 photos to [email protected] along with some information about the plants in the pictures and where you took the photos. We’d love to hear where you are located, how long you’ve been gardening, successes you are proud of, failures you learned from, hopes for the future, favorite plants, or funny stories from your garden.

Have a mobile phone? Tag your photos on Facebook, Instagram or Twitter with #FineGardening!

Do you receive the GPOD by email yet? Sign up here.

Image Source

Living with pesky birds can be an absolute nightmare for property owners, and government buildings are not immune to their effects. With droppings that cause damage, relentless noise that causes distraction, and destruction of property, birds require swift and effective control.

But what are the most effective bird control methods available to government buildings? This blog post explores the variety of options available, helping you decide which is the best fit for your needs!

6 Most Effective Methods for Bird Control in Government Buildings Bird Control Methods

Electric Bird Deterrents

Electric bird deterrence has become one of the more popular methods for bird control for government buildings in recent years. Generally, this type of bird control uses sound waves that frighten birds away without damaging the environment.

Using towers around the building and armed with strategically placed speakers, these towers can send sound waves to repel birds and keep them away from windows and other areas they are trying to get into.

This method is highly preferable by many government buildings due to its non-intrusive nature; it keeps birds away while simultaneously providing a sense of safety regarding the potential harm done by traditional bird controls like poison or traps.

Bird Slopes

With simple installation and long-term efficacy, bird slopes offer a cost-effective solution to mitigate bird damage to public property. They create an angled surface that prevents birds from landing or nesting on ledges or windowsills. Not only are they incredibly effective but they are also aesthetically pleasing, adding an intriguing contrast to featureless walls without detracting from the overall façade. Bird slopes may be customized in various widths, heights, and colors to suit any building’s design specifications, providing extra aesthetic flexibility.

Bird Netting

Bird netting isn’t glamorous, but it’s been around for centuries and still remains one of the most reliable ways to keep pesky birds from invading government buildings. The netting is constructed out of durable polyethylene strands that are tightly woven into a protective layer, creating an effective barrier between birds and buildings.

It also offers a humane approach to the problem; birds remain undamaged and can fly away safely, avoiding injury or lasting harm.

Netting is made in various shapes and sizes with unique designs; it can be placed over roofs, courtyards, eaves, porches, and other areas to provide maximum protection. It can also be installed as freestanding structures or fixed onto existing posts and walls to form an optimal enclosure.

Furthermore, bird netting requires minimal maintenance, as it can be easily cleaned or replaced if it becomes damaged over time. In essence, bird netting may be an old method for controlling birds around government buildings, but its timeless implications are still heavily relied upon today.

Anti Roosting Wires

An increasing number of government buildings are beginning to employ anti-roosting wire systems to deter birds. The effectiveness of this method is quite remarkable; it’s a unique solution that provides long-term protection against any potential damages caused by the presence of birds, such as droppings and contamination.

A wire is installed in horizontal or slanted positions on these areas, which keeps them bird-free. It makes it difficult for the birds to land or take off without risking injury, which ultimately deters them from coming near in the first place

Anti-roosting wire systems have become a popular choice for government buildings due to their comparatively lower cost than elimination efforts such as poison — creating a more humane alternative that keeps both humans and animals safe.

Furthermore, it allows practically unrestricted access and even encourages natural beauty with the introduction of hanging plants along certain walls.

Chemical Repellents

Bird damage to government buildings can range from minor issues such as faded paint to major problems, like deteriorating structures.

To prevent or mitigate such damage, many sites now use chemical bird repellents. This safe-to-use, low-impact products work by creating an unpleasant sensation in birds when they are near the applied area, prompting them to avoid it.

Chemical repellents come in various forms, including liquids, gel formulas, foam coatings, and paints. Different active ingredient combinations are also available to tailor the solution to the targeted bird species. The repellents work by making the surfaces uncomfortable but not painful or otherwise dangerous for the birds – so they won’t come back!

Birth Control

Birth control has long been used to control the population growth of humans, but did you know it can be used as one of the bird control methods? It is indeed a clever strategy that local governments have adopted in recent years.

By strategically placing food laced with birth control pills near government buildings that birds heavily populate, government officials can ensure that their building is well-protected against the adverse effects of too many birds without altogether evicting the birds from their living area.

While traditional bird control solutions involve harsh methods such as trapping, relocation, or lethal force – none of which really address the underlying problem – using birth control as a solution offers an environmentally friendly approach to control unwanted bird populations around these public places.

 

 

Trillium spp.

By the simple virtue of being here for such a short time before they’re gone, ephemeral flowers are special.

But trilliums are special not just because they grace us with their presence for only a brief period in the spring. The trio of leaves and colorful flowers provide color and texture in shady spots.

We link to vendors to help you find relevant products. If you buy from one of our links, we may earn a commission.

Most of us have those shady corners where nothing but some stubborn ivy grows. Trilliums will change those areas from spots you try to hide to ones worth showing off.

Unlike some other plants like the aforementioned ivy that we’ve imported and that have taken over vast swaths of land, trilliums are native to North America.

While they will spread, they won’t become invasive.

Get to know these elegant spring ephemerals as we chat about the following:

Do not, under any circumstances, take trilliums from the wild.

They’ve become threatened and endangered species in many parts of North America due to habitat loss.

It can sometimes be hard to find them for sale in nurseries, but that just means we need to work harder at spreading these species through cultivation in our home gardens.

If you live in USDA Hardiness Zones 4 to 9, look for trilliums at nurseries specializing in native plants.

What Are Trilliums?

Also known as the trinity flower, birthroot, toadshade, and wakerobin, trilliums (Trillium spp.) grow wild across North America and in a few places in eastern Asia, with around 90 species in the genus.

This genus is part of the same family as hellebores, Melanthiaceae.

The plants can be sessile, with flowers situated directly on top of the leaves rather than at the end of a stalk. Others are pedicellate, with a short stem holding the flower.

All have three bracts (what we recognize as leaves) once mature, and the flowers have three petals and three sepals.

The plants get their name from those groups of threes, and Trillium comes from the Latin trilix, which means triple.

While most are uniformly green, some species have silver, purple, or light green mottling. The flowers can be white, pink, yellow, green, red, or a combination of these colors.

It’s usually the sessile ones that have the mottled leaves. The pedicellate types usually boast larger, more colorful flowers.

Most herbaceous plants mature pretty quickly, but trilliums take up to seven years.

Being relatively slow-growing usually goes hand in hand with being long-lived, and that’s true in this case. An individual plant can live for 25 years or more, and it can reproduce indefinitely.

These plants are pollinated by ants, bees, beetles, gnats, and/or flies, depending on the species.

Trilliums are threatened or endangered in many parts of North America today. Loss of habitat, feral hogs, and deer are reducing trillium populations in the wild.

Propagation

When growers want to propagate wake robins from wild specimens, they humanely harvest the seeds from permitted areas.

The rest of us can propagate them by sowing seeds, taking divisions, or planting rhizomes.

From Seed

Propagating trilliums from seed is a challenge, but we don’t always have to take the easy road in life, right? You can buy seeds or pluck them off a plant yourself.

I recommend the latter option if mature plants are available to you, since the seeds must be kept moist, or they’ll go dormant and take years to germinate.

You can harvest seeds in the wild from some locations, so check your local regulations.

Keep in mind that sessile types generally mature and flower two to four weeks before pedicellate types. T. grandiflorum plants mature before sessile types.

After the flowers fade, a seed pod will form. Once the leaves start to die back and the pod is plump and soft, pull off the pod and open it up to remove the seeds.

They should be light brown – if they’re still green, they haven’t matured fully.

Give them a rinse to remove any debris. Place the seeds in moist sand in a jar or bag and set it on a heat mat. Keep the sand moist, and keep the seeds warm for three months at 70 to 85°F.

Next, place the container in the refrigerator for three months.

Keep switching back and forth between warmth and cold for three months at a time until the seeds germinate, keeping the sand moist the whole time.

When they do, they’re ready to plant in prepared soil outside.

Sow the seeds half an inch deep and 12 inches apart in prepared soil a few weeks before the last predicted frost date in the spring.

Seeds that germinate at other times of year can be propagated indoors in biodegradable containers until an appropriate season for outdoor transplanting.

From Rhizomes

Early spring or late fall is best to plant rhizomes in the ground.

Loosen up the soil where you intend to plant the rhizomes by digging down six inches. Then refill the planting area a little over halfway.

The goal is to have the rhizomes sitting in loosened soil, planted about two inches deep. Place the rhizomes 12 inches apart.

Cover the rhizomes with soil and add water so the earth feels moist but not wet.

By Division

Trilliums don’t like to be moved, but that primarily applies to actively growing plants.

If you divide plants when they’re dormant in the summer or fall, they’re easy to move around. You can also dig when they’re actively growing, but the risk of killing some of the rhizomes is higher.

The dividing work starts well in advance of the actual digging. In the spring, when the plants have foliage, mark the area where they’re growing.

Once the foliage has completely died back and the plants are dormant, dig up the soil where you previously marked their location, leaving a margin of several inches around where you believe them to be.

You’ll need to go about a foot deep to be safe as well, though most of the rhizomes will be much more shallow.

Once you have your clump, loosen up the soil so you can see the rhizomes. Gently tease them apart and transplant as described above.

How to Grow

When it’s time to pick a spot for growing your plants, any kind of plants, the general rule is to find or create a spot that mimics their natural habitat.

You know how these plants grow in the shady understory of forests? That informs where we should plant them in our gardens.

You don’t necessarily have to put them under a tree, but they should be shaded for most of the day, and always during the afternoon.

The warmer your climate, the more shade they need. In really hot areas like the South, they can be planted in full shade. In more temperate areas such as the Pacific Northwest, plant them in partial shade to dappled partial sun.

The soil should be rich, full of organic matter, loose, and well-draining. You know, just like the compost-rich soil in the forest.

If you have heavy clay, don’t despair. Just work lots of well-rotted compost into the soil to loosen it up and your plants will be fine.

These plants prefer slightly acidic soil with a pH of 5.0 to 6.5, but really, anything from 5.0 to 8.0 is fine.

The soil in dense forests tends to be moist in the spring and that’s how your soil needs to be: consistently moist while the plants are growing and flowering.

That said, the rhizomes can store water, so a brief drought won’t hurt them. Just don’t let them dry out for too long.

After the plants have died back in the summer, let the soil dry out completely. You don’t need to add any moisture during dormancy.

Add a two-inch-thick layer of leaf mulch to the soil around the plants. If you need to increase the acidity in the soil, use an equal mix of conifer needles and leaf mulch.

Growing Tips

• Plant in partial or full shade in rich, loose soil.
• Keep the soil consistently moist in the spring, allow it to dry out completely in the summer.
• Add a two-inch layer of leaf mulch around plants.

Maintenance

Native plants won’t become invasive, but trilliums can spread far and wide. That’s because they’ve made friends with ants.

Trilliums are myrmecochorous, which is just a big word for a plant whose seeds are distributed by ants.

The ants are attracted to nutrient-rich elaiosomes attached to the plant’s seeds. The ants take the seeds with them back to their nest or drop them along the way.

Mice, to a lesser extent, can spread the seeds as well.

All that is to say that you might find trilliums popping up far away from where you planted them. You’ll need to stay on top of pulling these up if they start sprouting where you don’t want them.

You can try to move them to a better spot in the garden, but remember that trilliums don’t like being moved.

You can also divide trilliums as they start to expand as described above, though it’s not necessary for the health of the plant. Plants mature in about four to seven years, and they will begin to form large clusters.

Garlic mustard (Alliaria petiolata) is a threat to plants all over the place, but it’s especially good at pushing trilliums out of the garden.

If you see even one tiny, itty-bitty, minuscule leaf pop up in your garden, you need to go on the offensive as if an army was invading your house, because it essentially is.

Pull it up and, under no circumstances should you let garlic mustard go to seed. Keep on it – where one is found, more are sure to follow.

There’s no need to deadhead after the blooms fade. In fact, if you let them go to seed, you’ll have more of them down the road.

If you don’t like the look of the leaves when they’re dying back in the summer, you can clip them to the ground when they’ve turned brown and wilted.

But remember, the longer you allow the leaves to remain in place, the more nutrients the plant is able to draw from them to sustain the rhizomes for the following season.

Species to Select

Do not, under any circumstances, take live trillium plants or rhizomes from the wild.

They’ve become threatened and endangered in many parts of North America due to habitat loss and animal predation.

It can sometimes be hard to find them for sale in nurseries, but that just means we need to work harder at spreading these species in our home gardens.

Trilliums haven’t been bred extensively in cultivation. You’ll find just species plants or maybe some unnamed cultivars or varieties available for purchase, though this is rare.

To make things easier on yourself and to make the wildlife happy, it’s best to pick a species native to your area.

But all types have similar growing requirements, so if you fall in love with a species that isn’t local, you don’t have to feel like you can’t make it yours.

The following are some of the most readily available and exciting varieties out there:

Great White

T. grandiflorum has some of the largest blossoms, which are pure white before transitioning to purple over the spring.

It’s one of the most common species in eastern North America and is the East’s answer to T. ovatum, as they’re extremely similar.

Large Purple Wake Robin

Some species are extremely rare but worth snagging if you can get your hands on them, and this is one of them.

T. kurabayashii, native to northern California and southwestern Oregon, the same region as the similarly commercially rare brook wakerobin (T. rivale).

Large purple wakerobin has stunning purple, green, and silver-mottled leaves with large, reddish-purple flowers.

This one costs a pretty penny, but it’s a real beauty. It requires a sheltered spot in full shade unless you live somewhere with a mild, cool climate.

Mottled Wake Robin

Found in North Carolina, South Carolina, and Georgia, T. discolor has a small, pale yellow flower, but that’s not why you should grow it.

The silver and green mottled leaves form a dense groundcover that is absolutely stunning during the spring.

Rainbow Wake Robin

T. sulcatum grows across the eastern US and shows off all spring with bright maroon flowers, though they may sometimes be white, yellow, or a combination of these.

The bracts are massive and will fill up any shady or partially shady area in your garden, including those with heavy clay.

Wake Robin

T. ovatum is one of the more common species on the West Coast. Solid green leaves are topped with a bright white flower that turns purple as it ages.

This is a tough species that will readily form a dense carpet in a shady or partially shady spot in the garden.

Subspecies oettinger has nodding flowers and subspecies ovatum has extremely wide bracts.

Managing Pests and Disease

Trilliums are tough. Maybe not the flowers and the leaves, but the rhizomes underground can withstand a lot.

I’ve accidentally “killed” my plants before by stepping on them, mowing them, and, one time, setting a watering can on them, and they always pop back up the following year.

Herbivores tend to be the biggest problem, with slugs and snails following close behind. Diseases are rare.

Herbivores

Herbivores are one of the biggest threats to wild trilliums.

In your yard, they’ll probably be less threatening if you live in the suburbs with lots of fences between you and the areas where deer live, but it’s still something you need to be aware of.

Deer

Deer browse on trilliums, chomping down all of the above-ground parts.

This seems like it should be no biggie, since those rhizomes will survive. But when deer eat the plants, they don’t produce seeds and that means the plants can’t reproduce.

This is one of the reasons why trilliums are fading from their native range.

Reproduction is probably less of a concern in your garden, but you still don’t want deer eating your plants, so check out our guide on protecting your garden from deer.

As stewards of native plants, home gardeners can do quite a bit to support struggling species and local ecosystems.

Hogs

I’m guessing most people don’t have a problem with feral hogs running rampant in their garden, but for those who do, you’ll want to protect your trilliums by planting them in a raised bed or fenced area.

Hogs will root around in the soil and unearth the rhizomes, and feral hogs are another major threat to native trilliums.

Mice

Mice will eat the seed pods when they’re present, but they otherwise avoid the plant.

You can safely ignore them, or even thank them, since they help spread the seeds. Otherwise, bag the developing seed pods if you’re planning to harvest them.

Insects

Slugs and snails will feed on young leaves, but they generally leave these plants alone. If you’re worried, use your favorite slug control method or read our guide for some ideas.

Disease

Smut, caused by Urocystis trillii fungi, and anthracnose, caused by Colletotrichum lineola fungi, have been found on trilliums, but these pathogens are not common in home gardens.

Smut causes black fungal growth on the stem while anthracnose causes brown patches on the foliage, usually toward the margins.

Both can be treated with a broad-spectrum fungicide like Mycostop Biofungicide. This product is handy to have around because it can treat a lot of different diseases.

Mycostop Biofungicide

If you don’t have any in your gardening toolkit, grab a five- or 25-gram packet at Arbico Organics.

Best Uses

Because wake robins vanish in the summer, you’ll be left with bare ground for part of the year.

Either plant something that will replace them or plant something that will attract the eye and draw attention away from the bare ground.

Blue cohosh, columbine, false Solomon’s seal, rhododendron, toothwort, Virginia bluebells, woodland phlox, ferns, and wild ginger all get along with trilliums.

Don’t plant near honeysuckle, English ivy, or Chinese privet. They’ll quickly smother your trilliums.

You can’t beat these plants if you’re looking for something that can fill in shady spots as a ground cover. The delicate flowers are just a bonus on top of the elegant foliage.

Quick Reference Growing Guide

Plant Type:	Herbaceous perennial	Flower/Foliage Color:	White, pink, yellow, green, red / silver, green, dark green, purple
Native to:	North America, Eastern Asia	Maintenance:	Low
Hardiness (USDA Zones):	4-9	Tolerance	Clay soil
Bloom Time:	Spring	Soil Type:	Loamy, rich
Exposure:	Full shade to partial sun	Soil pH:	5.0-6.5
Time to Maturity:	Up to 7 years	Soil Drainage:	Well-draining
Spacing:	12 inches	Attracts:	Bees, beetles
Planting Depth:	1/2 inch (seeds), 2 inches (rhizomes)	Companion Planting:	Blue cohosh, bleeding hearts, columbine, false Solomon’s seal, ferns, rhododendron, toothwort, Virginia bluebells, wild ginger, woodland phlox
Height:	Up to 18 inches	Avoid Planting With:	Chinese privet, English ivy, honeysuckle
Spread:	Indefinite	Uses:	Ground cover, specimen
Growth Rate:	Slow	Family:	Melanthiaceae
Water Needs:	Moderate to high	Genus:	Trillium
Common Pests and Diseases:	Deer, hogs, mice, slugs, snails; Anthracnose, smut	Species:	Albidum, catesbaei, cernuum, cuneatum, decumbens, discolor, erectum, flexipes, foetidissimum, gracile, grandiflorum, kurabayashii, lancifolium, ludovicianum, luteum, maculatum, nivale, oostingii, ovatum, rivale, sessile, simile, sulcatum, vaseyi

Omne Trium Perfectum

Everything that is good comes in threes, as the saying goes. In this case, it’s certainly true. The trio of leaves holding a trio of petals is a marvelous thing to behold.

Many people grow these plants for the flowers, but some varieties have such striking leaves that they can overshadow the blossoms.

And growing trilliums is an elegant solution for those shady spots that can be difficult to fill.

What region are you growing your plants in? Which species have you selected? Were you able to easily find them at a local nursery? Fill us in on all the details in the comments.

Are you a fan of spring ephemerals? Here are a few others you might want to grow:

Our latest video may be the most entertaining yet:

Why work hard to make compost? Nature makes it all the time!

We are about three weeks from our last average frost date, so gardening is picking up fast. It’s time to plant carrots and beets, time to weed the grocery row gardens, and time to get grafting!

So, that said, I’m headed to the garden.

Share this post!

Whether you lack a spacious yard or just want to bring a Japanese maple closer to your home, you might want to try growing one in a pot. How difficult would that be? Is it even possible?

We link to vendors to help you find relevant products. If you buy from one of our links, we may earn a commission.

Japanese maples are one of the most common species of tree grown as bonsai. So, you’re in for a resounding yes – it’s possible, you can grow Japanese maples in pots!

While the dwarf or semi-dwarf cultivars are the easiest, you can grow any variety in a container because they all have a compact root system that tolerates confinement.

Add to that the fact that these trees come in such a massive range of leaf and bark colors and foliage shapes, and you can see why they make appealing options for container growing.

There are lots of reasons to grow a Japanese maple in a container. You can add some height to a garden or grow a tree on an urban apartment balcony, for starters.

Regardless of your motivation, the process is the same for planting and caring for these marvelous trees.

To help you make it happen, here’s what we’ll discuss in the coming guide:

If you want to grow a tree in a container, you can’t find a better option than Japanese maple. Here’s everything you need to know, beginning with recommended cultivars to choose from.

Best Cultivars

Like we said earlier, any Japanese maple can be grown in a pot. Here is just a sampling of a few cultivars that make particularly good potted options.

Abigail Rose

If you’re looking for a cultivar that can liven up a partially shaded spot, search out this uncommon A. palmatum dwarf. The leaves have an interesting crinkled texture, but that’s only the beginning.

‘Abigail Rose’

The foliage of this ‘Higase Yama’ sport is bright pink at the margin with lime green centers. It stays under five feet tall for a compact but bold statement.

You can find ‘Abigail Rose’ available from Maple Ridge Nursery in one- and three-gallon containers.

Geisha Gone Wild

A. palmatum ‘Geisha Gone Wild’ is a sport of ‘Geisha’ that outshines its parent plant.

The leaves have bright red and pink margins with pinky-green interiors. In full sun, the colors are more green with cream margins. It tops out at about five feet.

‘Geisha Gone Wild’

Pick up ‘Geisha Gone Wild’ in one- and three-gallon pots from Maple Ridge Nursery.

Jubilee

A. palmatum ‘Jubilee’ will undoubtedly draw comments. It’s like nothing else out there.

The deeply lobed leaves are pink with stand-out red veins.

‘Jubilee’

As the season progresses, the leaves turn green, pink, and cream with bright pink veins, all on an eight-foot-tall tree.

Trees in one- and three-gallon containers are available at Maple Ridge Nursery.

King George’s Broom

Lovingly referred to as the “Russian spy,” A. palmatum ‘KGB’ is a dwarf that stays about three feet tall with red and pink leaves that change to red and purple in the fall.

It has a broom-like shape that looks particularly nice in a container.

Orangeola

A. palmatum ‘Orangeola’ is a stunner in its own right, but it’s also compact at about three feet tall and wide at maturity.

With bold, bright orange foliage in the fall, it already stands out. But add to that the green spring foliage and the purple summer leaves and you have a constantly evolving show.

‘Orangeola’

Run to Planting Tree to nab a one- to two- or two- to three-foot-tall plant.

Oregon Sunset

I have to admit I’m partial to this one because it’s named after the brilliant evening skies in my home state, but even if that weren’t the case, it would still be worth a look.

‘Oregon Sunset’ has a unique upright but spreading growth habit, sort of like a half weeping maple. During the spring, the foliage is a striking, bright red, transitioning to plum in the summer. By fall it fades to an elegant pastel orange.

It’s slow-growing, as are most A. palmatum cultivars, but if you give it time, it will eventually reach 10 feet tall.

‘Oregon Sunset’

Best get started growing your own, so head to Planting Tree to purchase a two- to three- or three- to four-foot tree.

Red Dragon

Gorgeous A. palmatum var. dissectum ‘Red Dragon’ is a classic for good reason. The heavily serrated leaves look like bright red pieces of lace dancing in the breeze.

The foliage is reddish-plum in the summer and warm burgundy during the fall. If you have a sunny spot, this cultivar is ideal. It maxes out at 12 feet tall at maturity.

‘Red Dragon’

Bring one home by heading to Fast Growing Trees for a live one- to two- or two- to three-foot-tall plant.

Ryusen

I’ve had my eye out, looking for one of these A. palmatum cultivars, because it has one of the most elegant shapes of any Japanese maple.

It has green palmate leaves like what you’d typically see on upright forms, but the branches grow upright for a bit before arching and cascading back down. In the fall, it shifts to stunning shades of yellow, orange, and red.

While it grows to about 20 feet tall, it’s easy to keep smaller in a container with pruning.

Tamukeyama

This A. palmatum is wider than it is tall, topping out at eight feet tall but spreading 12 feet wide. With its beautiful shape and red, heavily lobed, and serrated foliage, it makes an eye-catching focal point.

‘Tamukeyama’

Fast Growing Trees carries two- to three- or three- to four-foot-tall plants if you want to bring this beauty to your yard.

Pick the Perfect Container

When it comes to selecting the right container, pretty much anything that can hold soil and has drainage holes will work. But different materials can make your job easier or more difficult, depending on what challenges you’re facing.

For instance, metal containers tend to heat up quickly and don’t protect the roots from cold as well as, say, cement does. If you live somewhere that experiences freezing winters and sweltering summers, metal is probably not the right choice.

Terra cotta is usually cheaper than other materials and breathes well, but it also tends to crack in areas where freezing temperatures are common.

It’s a serious challenge to repot a huge tree, and you don’t want to be doing it every year after your pot cracks during the winter. You can wrap it in burlap or cardboard to help prevent this, or go with a different material.

Plastic is a popular choice because it’s affordable, durable, and lightweight. These don’t last as long or protect the roots from cold as well as other options such as cement or stone do, but they hold water well.

Personally, I prefer glazed ceramic. They’re heavy and they protect the roots from temperature fluctuations, retain water well, won’t crack (so long as the glazing is intact), and they last a long, long time.

A wheeled base either built-in or for placing the container on is a back saver if you ever plan on moving the tree.

You can find elegant ones that stay in place and add to the appearance of your display or you can find more utilitarian ones that can hold an impressive amount of weight, like this one by CASIMR, which can help you move up to 440 pounds.

Heavy Duty Plant Stand with Wheels

If you need some wheels to go with your tree, pick one of these up at Amazon.

Speaking of size, if you’ve ever seen a Japanese maple bonsai, then you know they can grow in teeny-tiny pots. However, unless you’re ready to commit to a lot of work, you’re probably going to want to choose something a bit larger.

For a dwarf cultivar, a five-gallon container is a good place to start, but you’ll certainly need to upgrade in the future.

For a full-sized tree, start with a 20-gallon container, minimum. At some point, you’ll still probably want to go up a size or two, but this is a good place to start.

Whatever you choose, it absolutely must provide good drainage. If you use a pot that doesn’t have drainage holes, you’re setting yourself up for disaster – root rot won’t be a matter of if, but when. In rainy regions, your tree might not even make it a year.

If you’re worried about soil running out of the drainage hole, use a piece of wire or plastic mesh to cover the hole before placing the potting medium in the container.

Choose a Potting Soil

Any good-quality potting soil will do the job, but we can do better than that, right?

The type of soil you should use depends on whether your container provides irrigation or not. If you have built-in irrigation, which translates to consistent water, you can go with potting soil that has the average amount of water-retentive material mixed in.

We’ll cover this in a bit more detail in the care section below.

I’m a huge fan of FoxFarm Ocean Forest Potting Soil mix for several reasons.

It has the right pH for Japanese maples, includes bat guano, fish meal, and earthworm castings for nutrients, and has the perfect texture to allow both water and air to access the roots.

FoxFarm Ocean Forest Potting Soil

Honestly, if I could fill my entire garden with this stuff, I would. Until we can fill the world with this excellent soil, you can pick it up in 12-quart bags at Amazon.

If you don’t have consistent rainfall or a container watering system in place, add coconut coir, sphagnum moss, or rice hulls to a high-quality potting soil.

I prefer the last option because rice hulls are exceptionally sustainable. They’re a waste product that’s totally renewable. They also increase aeration and improve drainage.

Rice Hulls

Nab a quarter, half, or full cubic foot of hulls at Arbico Organics.

Don’t place any broken pottery or rocks in the base of the container. I know this is a commonly recommended practice, but it won’t help with drainage. Just fill the entire container with your chosen medium.

Planting Tips

To plant your new tree, first place a bit of soil in the container as a base. You ultimately want the tree to sit at the same level it was in the container that it came in, so just do your best to eyeball the height.

Remove the plant from its pot and gently loosen the roots. Place the plant into the container. If it is sitting too low, add a bit more soil. If it’s sitting too high, scoop a little out. Once you have the right height, fill in around the roots with soil.

Be sure to leave an inch or so of space at the rim to allow for easy watering. Water the soil well to help settle it. You’ll probably find that everything settled a bit more than expected. If so, add a bit more potting medium and water again.

How to Care for Potted Maples

Depending on the cultivar, place your tree in a spot where it will receive partial to full sunlight. Japanese maples can survive in less light, but they tend to become leggy.

If you don’t have a container watering system set up or your plant won’t be hit by sprinklers, you might want to invest in some sort of irrigation system. If you live in a rainy area, a dropper might be all you need, or you might want to install a drip irrigation system that hooks up to your hose spigot.

Japanese maples like consistent moisture and they won’t grow as well if they experience regular drought. It’s one thing to keep trees in the ground watered, but it’s another thing entirely for trees in containers.

Pots tend to dry out more quickly than the soil in the ground. If you can stick your finger into the soil and it’s dry to your first knuckle, it’s time to add water.

You can certainly add mulch to help the soil retain water, such as a layer of stones, pine chips, or straw, though I’d argue that moss is far better-looking.

Living moss helps retain moisture in addition to adding visual interest. The species of moss you should use will depend entirely on where you live. Gardeners in rainy regions can get away with selecting species that would die instantly in the desert.

I find that Irish moss (Sagina subulata), which isn’t a true moss but is actually related to dianthus, is pretty universal. It can handle anywhere in Zones 4 to 8 and does well in pots.

Irish Moss

It doesn’t need a ton of moisture but it won’t fail if it receives oodles of rain for a while, so long as the drainage is good.

Grab some from Nature Hills Nursery.

Or you might consider planting something low-growing with shallow roots. Stonecrop (Sedum spp.), sweet woodruff (Galium odoratum), creeping Jenny (Lysimachia nummularia), barren strawberry (Geum fragarioides), and wild strawberry (Fragaria vesca) are all good options.

As with all potted plants, you will absolutely need to fertilize your trees. The soil in containers leaches nutrients more quickly than ground soil, so you’ll need to reapply it.

Look for a fertilizer made specifically for trees or a mild balanced fertilizer with an NPK of 3-3-3 or 4-4-4.

I love Down to Earth’s Tree and Shrub food, which not only has the perfect balance for ornamental trees, but it contains 11 strains of mycorrhizal fungi, which many potted plant soils lack.

Just as our microbiomes must be healthy for us humans to be healthy, plants need beneficial bacteria and fungi in their soil to keep them healthy.

Down to Earth Tree and Shrub Fertilizer

Grab a five- or 25-pound box of DTE’s Tree and Shrub food at Arbico Organics.

Repotting

You don’t have to repot your maples. If you like the container that it’s in, you can keep it there. You’ll just have to work at it.

Every three years or so, you’ll need to pull the whole plant out of the container and check the roots.

If they’re becoming compacted and there isn’t much soil visible, gently loosen the roots and brush away as much soil as you can. You might need to use a stream of water from your garden hose to assist in the process.

Using a clean pair of clippers, gently cut away about a quarter of the roots. Focus on anything that looks dead or rotted.

Replace the plant in the container with fresh soil.

If you decide to go up a size with the container, there is no need to trim away any roots unless you see some that are broken or dead. Remove the plant from the container, brush away as much soil as you can, and repot it in fresh, clean soil.

Moving up a size can be done every few years or whenever the plant begins to look stressed, with frequent wilting, browning leaves, or roots emerging out of the soil or drainage holes.

Bring the Beauty of Japanese Maples to Practically Any Spot

Isn’t it nice to know that there’s a tree that is practically perfect for container growing? Japanese maples aren’t fazed by life in a pot and boy do they make a charming, elegant addition to wherever you put them.

Whether you use them to add some height to a garden or to bring nature to a highrise balcony, these plants are ready for the job.

Which cultivar are you planning to grow? Let us know in the comment section below.

If you’re hoping to expand your Japanese maple gardening repertoire, we have several guides that you might find useful. Check these out next:

Image Source

 

Transform your backyard into an inviting and organised space where you can unwind, entertain and relish the outdoors. 

Whether you want to spruce up your garden, plan an outdoor entertainment area or simply declutter, these expert tips will help you elevate your outdoor space and create a haven you’ll love spending time in.

Make a Plan

Crafting a comprehensive plan is the first and most critical step in creating a functional and well-organised backyard. By considering your objectives, you can customise your backyard to suit your needs, style, and budget. Whether you’re planning to entertain guests, create a garden oasis or simply relax and unwind, your plan should outline the various zones you want to incorporate into your outdoor space. 

To visualise and organise these areas, you can draw a detailed map of your backyard and segment it into different sections for specific activities. With a well-thought-out plan, you’ll have a roadmap for transforming your backyard into a practical, stylish, and harmonious outdoor space

Declutter

Clearing out an outdoor space can be a daunting task, but it’s also an important step in creating a beautiful and inviting area. Start by creating a plan. Consider what type of activities you’d like to do in the space and how you’ll use the area. Visualise your plan, then start clearing out the space. 

Make sure to get rid of anything that doesn’t serve a purpose, such as old furniture, broken toys, and tools. It’s important to recycle or donate any items that can be reused. Once this is done, you’ll have a blank slate and you can start bringing in plants, outdoor furniture, and décor that reflects your desired look. 

Rearrange

Making the most of your backyard doesn’t have to mean spending a fortune on new items. With a few clever tricks, you can make the most of the space you have and bring a new look to your outdoor area. 

Try rearranging your existing items in different areas, or even hanging items from the walls to save floor space. You can also make use of vertical space by installing planters or hanging baskets with trailing plants. Add outdoor rugs and cushions to bring a pop of colour, and to make the area more inviting.

Create Zones

Creating zones in your backyard has many benefits. It helps to organise and maximise the space you have, making it more functional for various activities. Dividing your backyard into zones can also help to create a sense of separation and privacy, making it more comfortable and enjoyable for you and your guests.

One great way to create zones in your backyard is by adding a log cabin shed from Tuin. A log cabin shed can serve as a multi-functional space, offering both storage and living space. You can use it as a workshop, a guest room, a home office, or even a workout space. By adding a log cabin shed to your backyard, you can create a separate zone that is functional and stylish.

Log cabin sheds are also a great way to add value to your home. They are durable and long-lasting, and they can be customised to match the style of your home and backyard. Log cabin sheds are also a cost-effective way to create more living space without having to build an expensive addition to your home.

In summary, creating zones in your backyard is an effective way to maximise the space and make it more functional. Adding a log cabin shed to your backyard can serve as a multi-functional space that adds value to your home and increases your living space.

Consider Sustainability

Creating a sustainable backyard is not only beneficial for the environment but also for your pocketbook in the long run. By choosing eco-friendly materials and practices, you can reduce your carbon footprint and create a healthier, more sustainable environment for yourself and future generations. 

When it comes to selecting plants and materials, consider using sustainable options such as native plants, which require less water and maintenance than non-native plants, or recycled materials, such as repurposed wood or metal. Installing a rain barrel is another effective way to conserve water and reduce your utility bills while providing your plants with the nourishment they need. 

By incorporating sustainable practices into your backyard, you can make a positive impact on the environment and enjoy a beautiful, healthy outdoor space for years to come.

Add Lighting

Outdoor lighting is an essential component of any well-designed backyard. Not only does it add a touch of warmth and ambiance, but it also enhances the functionality of your outdoor space by extending your hours of use. 

By incorporating various types of lighting, you can create different moods and atmospheres for different areas of your backyard. String lights, for instance, can be hung across a patio or deck to create a cosy and intimate setting for dinner parties or outdoor movie nights. 

Lanterns can be strategically placed around the perimeter of your backyard to provide soft, ambient light, while solar-powered lights can be installed along pathways to increase safety and visibility. 

In addition to its practical benefits, outdoor lighting also adds an aesthetic element to your backyard, highlighting your landscape features and accentuating the architectural design of your house. With a range of lighting options available, you can easily tailor your lighting design to match your personal style and the overall theme of your backyard.

Final Word

Taking the time to plan your backyard layout, declutter, and incorporate functional features such as seating, outdoor lighting and storage solutions can help you create a beautiful and relaxing oasis. 

By defining specific zones for various activities such as dining, lounging, playing, and gardening, you can make the most of your outdoor space and maximise its functionality.

Organizing your backyard can be a fun and rewarding process. With a little planning and effort, you can create a beautiful outdoor space that you can enjoy for years to come.

Collaborative post

Adding an en-suite bathroom to your master bedroom is a significant project, and one that you naturally want to get right first time.

This type of renovation can require time, effort, and money, but if you plan it properly it will definitely be worth it.

Here are some handy tips on how to design an en-suite to help you tackle every stage of the project and create the en-suite bathroom of your dreams.

Make a plan first

Browsing bathroom fixtures and sampling paint swatches are fun activities, but they’re not the first thing to tackle when it comes to how to design an en-suite bathroom.

Start by planning your space and measuring to see what will fit. Once this is done, you can set a budget and timeline for the project.

These plans don’t have to be exact, but they can act as a blueprint for the rest of the project. They can also help you to prepare, and ensure that you don’t spend more on your en-suite than you expected or can feasibly afford.

Choose the right bath or shower option

With a rough plan in place, you can move on to the fun part and start shopping for bathroom fixtures.

The first thing to consider is the bath or shower option, as this will take up the most space and impact on the other items you’ll have in your bathroom. It’s also often one of the more expensive items, so it pays to know what you want from the beginning.

Baths are a slightly more versatile option over showers, as they can also be used as a shower. However, baths do take up more space, especially if you choose a freestanding bath. While freestanding baths require a lot of room, they’re also incredibly luxurious, as the range from Bathshack highlights. These stunning freestanding baths can be a unique focal point for your en-suite if you’re looking to create a relaxing atmosphere. If you have limited space, consider a smaller tub that is fitted to the wall to ensure that you have enough space to move around in your bathroom.

Choose other essential bathroom fixtures

Once you know what sort of bath or shower you want for your en-suite, you can fit the other bathroom essentials, namely the toilet and sink, around it. You will also be able to make an informed decision when it comes to the type of flooring and other major extras you want, like heated towel rails or bidets.

When you’re considering the main fixtures in your en-suite, think about how much space you have and your ideal set-up. Don’t be limited by what you’ve seen elsewhere, but instead consider what you want and how feasible it is with your budget and timescale. For example, some couples prefer to have multiple sinks in their en-suite for ease. If you have the space and cash, this could be a convenient solution to save you time in the mornings. Consider all the options before you make a decision on what to include in your en-suite design.

Hire a plumber

Unless you have experience fitting bathroom fixtures or are a plumber yourself, it’s worth hiring a professional to install your bathroom plumbing. It is possible to learn how to complete almost any home improvement project using videos on YouTube, but when you’re dealing with such expensive items and an element as volatile as water, it’s worth trying to find an expert who can fit the bath, toilet and sink correctly.

If you haven’t used a plumber in your local area before – for example, if you’ve just relocated – then ask for recommendations and read reviews. Make sure that you choose someone who is listed on a trade scheme like Checkatrade, so you know that they can be trusted to do a good job.

Pick a colour scheme

Bathroom décor doesn’t have to revolve around white like most baths and sinks. Some options are colourful, but for many homeowners, classic white is the best colour for fixtures. However, when it comes to walls and floors, there are plenty of colours you can choose from.

Get some inspiration by checking out some bathroom colour ideas to see what might look good in your bathroom. When you have a colour palette in mind, you can start thinking about finishes and shades to find the perfect look for your new en-suite. Wall paint can be changed, but this can be time-consuming and pricey, so it’s worth taking the time to find the right colour scheme from the start.

Install various lighting options

Lighting is particularly crucial for a bathroom, as it can change the way you appear in the mirror and also create a relaxing atmosphere. Also, if your en-suite doesn’t have an external window, then it won’t have any outside light and you’ll need to use artificial lighting throughout the day, even when it’s light outside.

Take the time to explore various lighting solutions, including spotlights, wall lights, and backlighting for mirrors. You can then find a range of options that will work for your home. Like the bathroom fixtures, you’ll need to use an expert, in this case, an electrician, to fit your lighting. The right tradesman will also be able to advise you on the best lighting and how to create the perfect mood in your new en-suite bathroom.

Add final flourishes

The major bathroom fixtures, like your sink and bath, need to be plumbed in, but once they’re fitted, you can start working on the final touches to enhance your en-suite. These include mirrors, shelves, cupboards and artwork. Practical items like shelves will be home to your cosmetics and other beauty tools, so you should think about how much space you need before you buy.

Extras like these can transform a bathroom from a plain room into a unique space, helping you to create the perfect ambience for your en-suite.

When it comes to aesthetic touches like floor coverings and artwork, you can get creative and find options that fit your style. Some homeowners choose bathmats that look like rugs, or waterproof materials like hemp to create a welcoming feeling in their bathrooms. You can also use artwork on the walls to make your en-suite more inviting and comfortable. With so many options to choose from, you can have fun finishing off your en-suite design and transforming your space into a haven you can be proud of.

Enjoy your new en-suite!

Finally, with the construction complete and everything in its proper place, it’s time to get down to the important business of enjoying your new en-suite bathroom. While costs and timescales vary, the average bathroom costs around £7200 and can take several weeks to complete, so when it’s all over, you’ll have definitely earned a pamper session in your new en-suite.

The tips in this article should make the process of planning and designing your bathroom easier, so you can craft the perfect space for your home and needs.

Pin for later: how to design an en-suite bathroom

When it comes to dry, sensitive skin, chamomile is a powerful ally to have on your side. This gentle soap is infused with dried chamomile to pack it full of the herb’s healing properties. So, treat your skin with love and make your own chamomile soap.

When it comes to the herb garden, there are few herbs as versatile as chamomile. Easy to grow, lovely to look at, and potent in its power, it’s a no-brainer addition to the garden.

I have a deep love for this herb, and I wanted to harness its properties into an ultra-moisturizing yet calming soap recipe.

This chamomile soap is designed with sensitive skin in mind. Chamomile is one of the best herbs for irritated skin, and this will give it a nice, gentle cleanse.

This post will cover…

Chamomile Soap Benefits for the Skin

Many of us know chamomile as the queen of herbal tea. While it’s excellent for digestion and cramps, the soothing effects also extend to the skin.

Traditionally, chamomile was used to treat skin-related issues like wounds and scrapes. The antibacterial and antifungal properties of the herb make it great for open wounds, cuts, scrapes, and bruises. You can also find anti-inflammatory properties thanks to the Chamazulene essential oil in chamomile.

Chamomile can be applied topically to help with eczema. In fact, a study shows that chamomile as a compress for skin lesions works just as well as hydrocortisone creams.

With all this being said, chamomile sounds like a powerful skin herb. Yet, it’s very gentle on the skin. Those with sensitive skin and even babies can safely use chamomile soap and will find it helps soothe irritated skin.

A chamomile oil infusion works best for minor skin irritations, which is the base of this chamomile soap. By infusing chamomile into this soap, you get all the calming properties the herb offers.

How to Make Chamomile Soap

To make this chamomile soap, I infused my moisture blend recipe. It’s made from 75% olive oil and 25% coconut oil for a seriously moisturizing bar of soap. Your skin is left with a subtle silky feeling that minimizes the need for lotion after showering.

Ingredients

Infuse Oils

The first thing you need to do for this recipe is infuse your olive oil with chamomile. Not only will the soap take on the light chamomile scent, but it will also take on the herb’s healing properties.

Use dried chamomile, as fresh chamomile will increase the chances of the soap spoiling if not used fresh. You can try cold infusion if you have time; otherwise, you can use the heat infusion method.

For infusing over heat, place the olive oil in a double boiler. Add as much chamomile as you have available while still being covered in oil.

Let it sit on low for a couple of hours or until the oil becomes aromatic. Strain your oil, and then it’s ready for use.

Make Your Soap

If you’ve never made soap before, check out this post here. I won’t go into detail about all the instructions here, so you can read those instructions for step-by-step guidance.

I left my soap unscented to go with chamomile’s soothing and natural spirit. If you want to add scent or color, you can do it when the soap is at a light trace. Blend it in, then pour it into your soap molds.

For my chamomile soap, I poured the soap into oval molds. Smooth the top layer with a spatula, then top off the soap with dried chamomile flowers for decoration.

Let your soap sit on a warm surface (such as a fridge) for 48 hours before unmolding the soap. The soap must cure for a further six weeks, and then it’s ready for use!

Frequently Asked Questions About Chamomile Soap

More Soap Recipes to Try

Collaborative post

As the weather gets warmer, many homeowners start to think about how they can spruce up their outdoor space. Whether you have a small balcony or a sprawling backyard, there are many ways to transform your outdoor space into a comfortable and functional living area.

Here are five tips to help you make the most of your outdoor space and turn it into somewhere you’ll love to spend time in.

Know the purpose of your outdoor space

Determining the purpose of your outdoor living area is the first step in making the most of it. Knowing what you want to use it for will help you create a space that meets your specific needs and provides the right environment for your activities.

Whether you want to entertain guests, relax with your family, or play with your children, understanding the purpose of your outdoor space will help you choose the right furniture, accessories, and features to create a functional and enjoyable living area.

For example, if you want to focus on entertaining guests, it’s important to consider the size of your space and the number of guests you usually host. You’ll need to choose furniture that provides ample seating and table space for your guests, and may also consider adding a grill or outdoor kitchen to cook and serve food.

If you’re looking to create a relaxing environment, think about furniture that provides comfort and encourages relaxation. Outdoor chaise lounges, rocking chairs, or swings will allow you to lounge and enjoy the great outdoors. You may also consider adding a water feature or outdoor fire pit for ambience and a soothing atmosphere.

If you have children, a safe and accommodating space for outdoor play is probably a priority. Consider adding play equipment such as a swing set, sandbox, or playhouse. Durable furniture that can withstand the wear and tear of play is worth considering too.

Make use of multi-functional furniture

Maximising your outdoor living area with multi-functional furniture is a smart way to make the most of your outdoor space. Choosing furniture that serves multiple purposes allows you to create a functional and efficient space without sacrificing style and comfort.

For example, consider investing in modular seating that can be rearranged to suit your needs. This type of furniture can be used as a seating area for entertaining guests, a lounge area for relaxing with family, or a bed for outdoor napping. This versatility allows you to make the most of limited space.

Another way to maximise your outdoor space is by incorporating furniture with built-in storage. Outdoor storage benches and ottomans are great examples of this type of furniture. They provide seating and a place to store items such as cushions, toys, and other outdoor accessories. This helps keep the area organised and frees up valuable floor space that would otherwise be taken up by storage containers.

A multi-functional dining set can also be a great addition to your patio or deck. Look for a table that can be extended for larger gatherings, or choose a table with an integrated fire pit or ice cooler to turn it into a statement piece. Outdoor bar carts and serving carts are also useful for entertaining and can double as a bar or drink station during gatherings.

Add greenery

Adding greenery to your outdoor space can transform it into a peaceful and enjoyable haven. It not only adds beauty and a sense of calm to your environment, but also offers numerous benefits for your physical and mental health.

First, plants help to purify the air by absorbing carbon dioxide and releasing oxygen, making it fresher and cleaner. This is particularly important in urban areas where air pollution is a concern. Also, many plants release phytochemicals that have been shown to positively impact people’s health, such as lavender, which has a calming effect, and lemon balm, which helps boost mood and mental clarity.

Additionally, greenery provides shade and reduces the heat island effect. This means that your outdoor space will remain cooler, even on hot summer days, making it more comfortable to spend time in. The presence of plants can also reduce noise levels, which can help to create a more serene environment.

You should hire a professional landscape gardener if you want more than simply plants in your garden and need help with things like laying a driveway, or building a path, patio, decking, screening, pond, and so on. You can access local landscape gardeners near you on MyBuilder. With only a few clicks on MyBuilder, you can find local, reputable landscapers who meet your specific needs.

Incorporating greenery into your outdoor space can also add value to your property. A well-manicured garden can make your home more appealing to potential buyers, increasing its resale value.

Add a focal point

A focal point is a visual centre of attention that draws the eye and creates a sense of balance and harmony. By incorporating a focal point into your outdoor design, you can create a visually appealing and inviting space, making it a perfect place to entertain guests or spend time with family and friends.

There are many ways to add a focal point to your outdoor space. The best option will depend on your specific needs and the style you are trying to achieve. Some popular options include adding a water feature, such as a fountain or pond, installing an outdoor fire pit or fireplace, or creating a beautiful garden or landscaped area.

Another way to add a focal point to your outdoor space is by incorporating a statement piece of furniture, such as a large outdoor sofa or a dining table. This can be the centrepiece of your outdoor space and serve as a visual anchor, helping to create a sense of unity and coherence.

Incorporating lighting into your outdoor design is another way to create a focal point and add interest. Strategically placed lighting can highlight key features, such as a water feature, plant, or piece of furniture, and create a warm and inviting atmosphere in the evening.

Make use of vertical space

By utilising the walls, fences, and even the ceiling of your outdoor space, you can add more storage, seating, and decor.

One way to use vertical space is by installing shelves or cabinets on the walls of your outdoor space. This can provide additional storage for items such as outdoor furniture cushions, garden tools, and other accessories, freeing up valuable floor space. Wall-mounted planters are another way to make the most of vertical space and will also add a touch of greenery to your outdoor area.

Another way to use vertical space is by incorporating hanging baskets, wall-mounted lanterns, or string lights into your outdoor design. These elements can serve as a light source and add an element of interest to your space, making it more visually appealing and inviting.

Vertical space can also be used to create additional seating and lounging areas. Wall-mounted benches, swings, and hammocks are an easy way to add seating without taking up floor space, making the most of every inch of your outdoor living area.

Pin for later

As a child, Lily Kwong was fascinated by four scrolls that hung in her family’s living room. Depicting mountainous landscapes, they were a gift from her grandparents, who were from Shanghai. “I would stare for hours at these paintings and just get lost in the fantasy of them,” she recalls. “It was the first time I remember using my imagination.” The images made a lasting impression: When she was asked to be the guest designer—the first woman and first person of color—for the New York Botanical Garden’s 20th annual orchid show, she knew where look for a source of inspiration. “I just felt called to dig into those identity markers to explore them with curiosity and reverence,” she says.

Kwong and her team worked with the esteemed NYBG horticulture and exhibitions staff to create the extraordinary exhibit, called “Natural Heritage.” It showcases thousands of orchids—from the ubiquitous phalaenopsis to more uncommon species like Epidendrum ciliare, or the fringed star orchid. Kwong drew upon Chinese landscape philosophy, balancing yin and yang to recreate the mountains in her family’s scroll, “expressions of qi from the earth,” as she describes them. She covered large, smooth rocks with textured moss, festooning them with masses of fuchsia, yellow, orange, and white orchids.

If Kwong had to choose a favorite room, it might be the tranquil and contemplative walkway filled with white and pale-colored medicinal orchids like the dendrobium, first used as a treatment and tonic for longevity during the Han dynasty (202 BCE- 220 CE). This area is a tribute to her great-grandfather, who opened the Australia-Asia trade to Chinese herbs.

“One of the core principles of the Chinese landscape practice is the peaceful coexistence of humankind and nature, and, of course, we need that now more than ever,” Kwong says. “My prayer for this installation is that people will walk away inspired to mine their own heritage for a connection to the earth and the natural world,” she says. It seems her prayers will be answered: With a soundscape by composer Gary Gunn complementing the exhibit, the show is a feast for the eyes and the senses, as well as for the mind. One of the many informative signs scattered throughout the exhibition features a poem by Hua Mao, translated by Wendy Swartz. It encapsulated my emotions upon leaving the exhibit. It concludes, “There is joy, there is full feeling.”

The exhibition runs through April 23, 2023.

Photography courtesy of the New York Botanical Garden, unless otherwise indicated.