Category: Home & Garden

Tulipa x

Rembrandt tulips are literally the stuff of legend.

They represent some of the most expensive flowers ever sold, and their story involves the collapse of a major economy, a starring role in classic art, and a mysterious virus that both created and threatened their very existence.

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Today’s Rembrandts have ditched the drama and delicate constitution but kept the spectacular appearance that prompted so much fuss.

Tulips are easy to love with their carefree nature, but these particular types are exceptionally lovely.

The flame-like markings stand out, making a striking display, especially when you cluster them in a big group.

Whether you’re familiar with growing Tulipa plants already and you just want to know more about Rembrandts, or you’re new to the genus altogether, we’ll help you make the most of them with this guide.

Here’s everything we’ll discuss, coming right up:

These gorgeous flowers have a fascinating history, and the modern types are downright easy to grow.

If you live in USDA Zone 7 or below, growing Rembrandts is a piece of cake. You can do it in Zones 8 and above, too – we’ll let you in on the secret to cultivation in warmer regions in just a bit.

Cultivation and History

Rembrandts are part of the Triumph group of tulips, Division 9, which is the largest group of plants in the Tulipa genus.

They all have single blossoms and strong stems, perfect for cutting.

Rembrandts are named for the Dutch painter Rembrandt Harmenszoon van Rijn, though he wasn’t really known for painting tulips and they weren’t called that when they were first bred by horticulturists.

There’s just one prominent painting of his, called “Saskia as Flora,” that features a red and white tulip in the floral crown of his wife, Saskia van Uylenburgh.

There are two categories of these flowers: Rembrandts and improved Rembrandts. That’s just a fancy way of saying that there are older ones as well as modern hybrids.

To understand the difference, we need to dive into a little bit of history. Plant nerds, get ready for some fun!

Most of us have heard about “tulipmania,” aka “tulpenmanie” in Dutch. For about three years starting in 1634, people in Holland were frantic to obtain the latest, greatest tulips.

To set the stage, the Dutch were some of the wealthiest people on the planet at the time, and when you have a lot of money, you have to find new ways to use and display all that wealth.

Today, that might be with increasingly massive yachts or jewels, but the Dutch turned to speculating on tulips.

Collectors spent unmentionable sums to buy new and interesting tulip plants. To be clear, they didn’t buy physical plants, they were buying the right to multicolored, unique beauties promised by growers.

These variations were caused by mosaic virus, also known as the tulip breaking virus.

This disease spread by aphids causes beautiful and interesting variations in petal color and pattern by suppressing the pigment in the petals.

Even though it produces some really cool effects, you don’t want to rely on a virus method of propagation. It’s not predictable, though offsets do grow true. But it causes slower, weaker growth, which isn’t a recipe for future success.

Some of the most famous, expensive, and beautiful Rembrandts are lost to time because they were weak.

The revered ‘Semper Augustus’ is one example of a beloved, ridiculously expensive variety that faded out of production because it was too weak and sickly to continue in breeding programs.

But the fiery red and white striped petals are still the standard for what breeders hope to achieve.

The deeper red and white ‘Admirael van Enkhuizen’ is another.

It was the most expensive tulip confirmed to have been sold at the time, in 1637 at the Alkmaar auction just before the collapse of the tulip market. It also failed to be vigorous enough to continue in breeding programs.

Some from this time, like the rose red and white ‘Zomerschoon,’ are still around.

People bought up plants that showed interesting growth, and even your “average” tulip without the virus became more valuable.

This type of speculative trading produced what some people consider to be the origin of the modern financial market. Stocks and bonds? You can partially thank tulipmania for that.

When the tulip market crashed after people realized that future tulips they’d paid for might not come to fruition, it caused a depression in the European economy. Suddenly, no one wanted these famous flowers anymore.

By the 1960s, scientists determined that these unique tulips were caused by a virus, but growers realized long ago that these flowers weren’t healthy, and they were culled from many gardens.

It’s illegal to sell them in Holland without a special permit, even today.

But during the peak of their fame, breeders attempted to encourage the dramatic coloring using all kinds of questionable techniques, since no one understood what kind of magic or alchemy was causing the unique coloration.

Though we tend to think of ourselves as smarter than that in modern times, this kind of spending “mania” exists with modern plants as well, but usually on a smaller scale.

For instance, the rush for variegated monsteras raged and rapidly cooled, with cuttings commanding incredible prices that diminished to much more reasonable sums in just a few years.

Anyway, modern Rembrandts aren’t bred using plants infected with mosaic virus.

These improved tulips have been bred to look like the virus-infected types but without the presence of the disease, which causes much slower growth and is unpredictable.

Today, almost all Rembrandts are the improved type. You really have to go out of your way to hunt down the original types, which are sometimes called broken, historic, or heirloom Rembrandts.

Propagation

Tulips of all types need rich, well-draining soil.

If you have heavy clay, consider planting in containers or raised beds, or amending your soil with a ton of well-rotted compost, regardless of which propagation method you use.

From Bulbs

Bulbs are usually available at stores in the fall for planting right away.

Plant the bulbs six inches apart and deep enough that each bulb is covered with three inches of soil. Water the soil well.

From Divisions

Once the leaves have died back in the summer, but before you pull the leaves, dig down and pull up the clumps of bulbs.

Separate them into individual bulbs and replant as described above.

How to Grow

Tulips are thirsty, but only sometimes. They like their soil to be moist in the fall, winter, and spring. But too much moisture in the summer will shorten their lives dramatically.

Remember, tulips are native to Kazakhstan, which has hot, dry summers, and these plants are dormant in the summer.

Let the soil dry out before watering during the summertime. Throughout the rest of the year, add water when the top inch or so dries out.

If you adore tulips but you live in Zone 8 or up, you’ll need to dig those bulbs up in the fall and chill them in the refrigerator for eight weeks. Then, you can put them back in the ground.

In the summer, when the blossoms fade and the leaves start to turn yellow, it’s time to fertilize with a 10-10-10 NPK fertilizer.

Regardless of where you live, if you want to go the extra mile and extend their lifespan, dig up the bulbs and store them in a basement or somewhere else cool and dark.

Replant them in the fall, a month before the predicted first frost, after the soil has cooled off from the summer heat.

While they’re out of the garden, you can place some fun annuals in their former location to add some color.

If your plants seem to fade after a few years, don’t feel too bad. It wasn’t something you did.

It’s just the nature of tulips, and it’s why many people grow them as annuals. Just pull any plants that start to look a little sad and replace them with new bulbs.

Growing Tips

• Reduce watering in the summer.
• Fertilize in the summer after blooming.
• Replace faded plants after a few years.

Maintenance

Feel free to cut off the stem after each flower has faded, but don’t trim away the leaves just yet.

If you want your flowers to return year after year with blossoms that are as big and abundant as ever, let the leaves turn completely yellow and then brown before cutting them or pulling them.

If you go to pull a dead leaf, it should come away from the plant cleanly and easily. If you have to tug at all, don’t take it just yet.

Cultivars to Select

In keeping with the original categorization, there are three color groups for Rembrandts and their improved counterparts.

• Bijbloemens have purple flames or stripes on a white base.
• Bizarres have a red or yellow base with brown flames and stripes.
• Roses have a white base with pink or red coloration.

Feather coloration describes faint markings on flowers in any of the three color groups, and flame coloration describes bolder, richer markings.

I don’t recommend planting heirloom Rembrandts unless you’re extraordinarily careful.

The mosaic disease is highly contagious, and you don’t want to be responsible for spreading a disease that will weaken your or your neighbor’s prize tulips.

Stick with improved options if you just want to enjoy these beauties that are so easy to care for.

Rembrandt Mix

If you can’t pick just one color, go for a mix. You can find mixed packages of bulbs in various colors at many gardening stores, including Eden Brothers and Dutch Grown.

Carnaval de Rio

With bright red flames on a white base, these rose-type single flowers are as beautifully colored as any of the heirloom types, only you won’t have to fuss with virus-laden tulips.

As they mature, some will show subtle hints of yellow among the red, making them stand out even more.

‘Carnaval de Rio’

Start the party in your garden by grabbing packs of 10 bulbs at Burpee.

Grand Perfection

These tulips are – wait for it – modern Rembrandt perfection.

Young petals on this rose type start out creamy yellow with red flames before maturing to maroon stripes on a white base.

They’ll fill your garden with flowers that look like they’ve been painted in brushstrokes by the grand masters.

‘Grand Perfection’

Pick up packages of 15 bulbs at Home Depot.

Helmar

‘Helmar’ is one of my favorites of all the modern Rembrandts.

It’s a bizarre type with extremely bold flame-like stripes that appear to have been painted on by the brush of an artist that favors the brightest colors possible.

At 18 inches tall, it reaches high above some of the shorter cultivars. Paired with the intense color, this makes it a stand-out flower for your garden.

‘Helmar’

If you want to dip your toes into the Rembrandt world, you’d be smart to go with this one. It lives a long time and the plants are extremely tough.

Dutch Grown carries this exceptional option.

Insulinde

While it was only first cultivated about 100 years ago, ‘Insulinde’ is a Bijbloemens with the classic look of the original Rembrandts and is the result of the same virus that created all those gorgeous flowers that caused so much financial ruin centuries ago.

It has swirls, whirls, and streaks of reddish-purple on a petite flower.

Remember, this one is infected with a virus, so it’s best grown indoors, in a greenhouse, or otherwise isolated from other tulips.

But if you’d like to experiment with growing the original broken tulips, this is one of the few still in cultivation, and it’s awfully beautiful.

Divide it often because the plants tend to become smaller and weaker as they age.

Mickey Mouse

With its classic bizarre coloring in bright yellow and flaming red, ‘Mickey Mouse’ flowers earlier than other Rembrandts, with bold, single blossoms.

‘Mickey Mouse’

Snag packages of 10 bulbs for your garden at Burpee.

Rem’s Favorite

I don’t know if Rembrandt would consider this his favorite tulip, but you can easily imagine it gracing a painting by one of the Dutch masters and pulling in the big bucks in tulipmania times.

Technically a rose type, the flaming stripes are darker purple than that of many other cultivars.

‘Rem’s Favorite’

Even if Rembrandt had other favorites, this is one of mine. Bring it to your home by snagging a pack of 10 bulbs from Burpee.

Managing Pests and Disease

Rembrandts are no different than other types of tulips when it comes to the kinds of problems that can bother these plants. In particular, I find that deer, rabbits, and voles seem to really like them.

Remember, the historic types are weaker than modern types, so they’re even more susceptible to problems and predators.

Herbivores

So… I have some really bad news for you. Herbivores love tulips, both the bulbs and the leaves.

They love them so much that I’m tempted to take a bite of my bulbs just to see what all the fuss is about.

By the way, tulips are edible, and people in Europe turned to eating them during the food shortages of World War II.

But too much can give you indigestion thanks to the glycoside the plant contains, tuliposide A and tulipalin A.

Stick with nibbling on the flower petals if you want to give yours a try, which taste better and won’t make you sick.

You’ll get uncomfortably full before you can eat enough petals to send you running to the restroom.

That aside, here’s how to deal with the competition looking to eat your plants before you can enjoy them.

Deer

You get up in the morning and head out to your garden to find that your tulip plants have been mowed down like someone just ran over your garden with a lawnmower.

But you know you weren’t out there in the middle of the night doing lawn maintenance.

It’s probably deer, or maybe elk.

Read our guide to dealing with deer for more information on how to drive these hungry ungulates from your garden.

Rabbits

Rabbits will nibble on tulip bulbs, leaves, and flowers. They’re hungry, and they reproduce so quickly that they’re truly worthy of their own cliche.

If something is eating the stems and leaves, as well as digging into the bulbs, it’s probably rabbits. Deer just mow the leaves down like a lawnmower.

If it seems like rabbits are the problem, we have a guide to walk you through the process of dealing with them.

Voles

People often confuse moles and voles. Moles are carnivores. If something is eating your bulbs underground, it’s probably voles.

Voles are hard to control, and if you regularly find them in your garden, you might as well give up your tulip dreams, since they seem to adore these plants.

Okay, it’s not that bad, but you definitely have a battle ahead.

If you aren’t ready to wave the white flag, either plant in raised beds lined with chicken wire or try containers.

Traps and repellents can also help, but keep in mind that these animals reproduce rapidly, and they’ll go for tulips straight away.

Insects and Disease

Rembrandts are susceptible to every pest and disease that impacts other types. Our general guide to growing tulips provides all the info you’ll need.

Best Uses

During the heyday of tulipmania, it was all about a single specimen displayed on its own.

These days, we grow them in big, massive groups to make more of an impact. Combine multiple colors or just focus on one to make a big showing.

Tulips work well in borders, mass plantings, and containers.

They’re beautiful combined with plants that will fill the area before they bloom and after they fade. Think crocuses, daylilies, lilies, grasses, ornamental alliums, and snapdragons.

And, of course, you can use them in cut flower displays.

Quick Reference Growing Guide

Plant Type:	Perennial flowering bulb	Flower / Foliage Color:	Brown, pink, red, white, yellow/green
Native to:	Modern Kazakhstan and other parts of Central Asia	Water Needs:	Moderate
Hardiness (USDA Zone):	3-10	Maintenance:	Low
Bloom Time / Season:	Spring	Tolerance:	Summer drought
Time to Maturity:	Up to 3 years (bulblets)	Soil Type:	Loamy, loose
Exposure:	Full to part sun	Soil pH:	6.0-6.5
Spacing:	6 inches	Soil Drainage:	Well-draining
Planting Depth:	3 inches	Companion Planting:	Crocuses, daylilies, lilies, grasses, ornamental alliums, snapdragons
Height:	Up to 2 feet	Uses:	Mass planting, borders, containers
Spread:	6 inches	Order:	Liliales
Growth Rate:	Fast	Family:	Liliaceae
Common Pests and Diseases:	Aphids, bulb mites, deer, rabbits, slugs, snails, spider mites, voles, wireworms; basal rot, botrytis blight, tulip breaking virus, tulip crown rot	Genus:	Tulipa

A Tulip Worthy of All the Drama

While it’s easy to see why people were infected with the tulip virus during the mania, thank goodness modern breeders have figured out how to create all the drama of the Rembrandt tulip without all the… drama.

Which improved Rembrandt do you plan to grow? Or are you going to go for a broken one? Do tell! Share your big plans in the comments.

There’s a lot more to these plants. If you’re looking for more ways to use these flowers in your garden, we have more tulip guides that can help you on your journey:

I was recently out in Seattle for the flower and garden show. While there, I got to catch up with our Northwest regional reporter, Susan Calhoun. We talked about a bunch of different things, but my favorite part was hearing about what was happening in her Pacific Coast garden right at that very moment. She held me in a trance as she described the blooms on a rare snowdrop cultivar that had just come into flower in her beds. Now I don’t consider myself a galanthophile in any way. But to hear her talk about the joy it brought her made me want to become one.

I always love hearing about what’s happening in other people’s gardens. I like to know what plants are performing well, which tree they just splurged on, or how they’re dealing with the damage left behind after an unexpected cold snap. It doesn’t matter to me that what they’re planting I may not be able to plant in my own Zone 6 garden, or that the conditions they’re dealing with might not mimic what I’m worried about in my landscape. It’s all fascinating and the sort of gardening know-how that I love to surround myself with. That’s what unites us in this passion.

Perhaps you are the same. You love reading about a xeriscape in New Mexico, despite living in Montana. Or you love to swoon over a Zone 9 plant despite living in Zone 5. If that’s the sort of person you are—and I suspect because you are a member of the Fine Gardening community, you are—then I don’t need to point out the array of amazing regional articles we’ve published in the last month. But in case you missed some, be sure to check out tips for growing fruit trees in coastal climes and the best native annuals for the Rocky Mountains. I don’t live in either of these regions, but I walked away from reading these deep dives with plenty of notes that will make me a better gardener in my backyard.

The rest of the content featured in this newsletter is similarly robust and is guaranteed to help you chase away the last of the winter blues. The snow may still be falling where you garden, but rest assured that the snowdrops are on their way.

 

—Danielle Sherry, executive editor

 

 New Regional Content to Check Out

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Specialized Pruning Techniques: Stooling, Sucker Removal, and Lift-Pruning

Plants with Early Spring Flower Fragrance for the Midwest

Colorful Conifers for Year-Round Interest

Rejuvenation Pruning Tips for Overgrown Shrubs

How to Get Rid of English Ivy and Other Invasive Ground Covers

Growing Fruit Trees Successfully on the Pacific Northwest Coast

Easy-to-Grow Native Wildflowers for the Southwest

Native Annuals and Biennials for Rocky Mountain Gardens

When I bought my house, it was clear that the previous owners had once fallen in love with the promise of weed-controlling, high-coverage ground covers. It worked a little too well. By the time I took ownership, the lawn, edge of the woods, and flower beds were overrun with periwinkle (Vinca minor, Zones 4–9), creeping Charlie (Glechoma hederacea, Zones 3–10), and English ivy (Hedera helix, Zones 5–11). I was left with the conundrum of how to get rid of the English ivy and these other troublesome plants. I didn’t want to use weed killers since they can be harmful to the environment and I had nearby plants that I wanted to salvage.

Use the dormant season to get ahead

If you find yourself in my shoes, know that winter is your best chance to get ahead. The dormancy of nearby plants leaves these evergreen vines exposed and easy to pull up with little to no collateral damage. While these vines act like a Hydra for most of the year, sprouting new heads any time one is cut, their growth stagnates in winter. During the dormant season, you can take your time pulling them up without fear of losing ground. And as a bonus, ticks and mosquitos won’t make a feast of you while you’re working.

Removing invasive ground covers by hand is highly effective

The job can be done with only gloves and a hand rake for any hard soil. Tenacity will be your greatest tool. English ivy, periwinkle, and most other ground covers spread by stolons or rhizomes that root down as the plant spreads. This means that it’s imperative not only to pull the plant’s roots up but also to follow each runner and keep pulling. Removing vines by hand is a tedious task, but it’s the most effective way that I’ve found, and the victory of bare soil is worth the effort.

Once you’ve got your pile of evicted roots and runners, be sure to throw the debris away in a garbage bin. These plants can and will regrow from just about nothing, and you don’t want to leave a nasty surprise for yourself in spring. Even after the most thorough sweep, you’ll inevitably see new growth in your reclaimed area. Pull it up as soon as you spot it.

Sheet mulching smothers plants

Sheet mulching the affected area can help prevent any invasive material from regrowing and new weeds from taking over. Cardboard or newspaper are great, inexpensive, and abundant materials for weed control. I personally remove as much of the roots as possible from an area and then lay a quilt of cardboard or newspaper over the soil. The key is to overlap the edges so that nothing can grow up between the pieces. Then cover the cardboard or newspaper with mulch, and water occasionally until everything has decomposed. This method smothers any vegetation beneath it.

What to do if English ivy is growing up your tree

English ivy can become an even nastier headache if it climbs the trees in your yard. The cultural method to tackle this problem is to cut the base of the stems and pull off what vines you can, leaving the rest to die and fall off on their own. For more information on this method, check out the fact sheet put out by the North Carolina Cooperative Extension.

By using the dormant season to eradicate these invasive ground covers, you can then look forward to starting spring with a clean slate.

For more on identifying and getting rid of invasive plants, check out:

 

—Cheyenne Wine is a writer and photographer for Rare Roots Nursery in Mechanicsville, Virginia.

Photos, except where noted: Cheyenne Wine

The mild days of winter offer gardeners an opportunity to tend to tasks that are best done when the landscape is dormant. One of those tasks is the rejuvenation or renovation pruning of shrubs. This type of work is not for the timid, as it is rather aggressive. The purpose of this task is to take an overgrown or poorly formed plant and selectively remove a substantial amount of its structure to encourage a renewal of healthy growth in the spring. All pruning encourages new growth; rejuvenation pruning results in robust growth. When properly executed, shrubs can be given new life and keep their natural form even if reduced in size. A variety of species lend themselves to this technique, and I have worked on many viburnums (Viburnum spp. and cvs., Zones 3–9), lilacs (Syringa spp. and cvs., Zones 3–8), mock orange shrubs (Philadelphus coronarius, Zones 4–8), and burning bushes (Euonymus alatus, Zones 4–8).

Why prune during the dormant season

Winter pruning is beneficial, as most shrubs are bare or have reduced leaves, making the overall structure of a shrub as well as any issues with growth easily seen. Each of these issues needs attention, with decisions made as to how best to correct the problem. This is not the time for concern about saving spring-flowering buds, or about whether a plant is blooming on new or old wood. We must be focused on rejuvenating the shrub and be prepared for fewer flowers the first season after this work.

To get started, look for these issues in your shrub

First, gather your tools, which should consist of a good pair of hand pruners and at least one pair of loppers, all sharpened. If you have very large limbs, a pruning saw may be necessary. Take a step back and look at the overall form and size of the shrub. Consider how the shrub appears compared to the species standard and how well this shrub fits in the space where it is growing—essentially, is this plant performing the way you want it to? I call this the “big picture” assessment. You should also look for any problematic growth. This includes:

• Crossing or rubbing branches
• Misshapen, distorted, or misdirected branches
• Suckers
• Dead or damaged branches

If this is the first rejuvenation pruning for your shrub, you will surely find that a lot of work needs to be done.

Example: Pruning an overgrown Burkwood viburnum

The Burkwood viburnum (Viburnum × burkwoodii, Zones 4–8) in my garden had overgrown its spot by the patio. I have made a point of giving it a good clip to keep it in bounds after it blooms each spring, but that has just not been enough, and it was time for more extensive work. I started the pruning process slowly by bringing in the sides where branches encroach on a path or other plant, pruning back to a bud heading in the direction I want the new growth to go. (Cuts should be made at different levels along the branch so that new growth is staggered within the shrub.) I then thinned out clusters of twigs so there would be more air and light reaching the center of the shrub, encouraging interior growth and a healthy environment.

Branches growing backward into the center of the plant were next: I removed or pruned them to redirect them to head to the outside. Working with this semi-evergreen plant disturbed the leaves, which fell and made the branches more visible. (Wear a smooth jacket or you risk the leaves sticking to you.) I then cut back new growth to encourage branching and pruned old growth to reduce height and force new growth at lower levels.

When I was finally finished, there was a lot of air and room to grow where a mass of branches had stood only an hour earlier. It may look like a brutal assault, but by midsummer this Burkwood viburnum will be lush with new growth as a result of one afternoon’s efforts. This approach has sacrificed many of the blooms for this spring, but it will be worth it in future seasons. As I tell my shocked clients, I’ve done this before and the shrubs always come back better than they were.

For more tips on pruning shrubs, check out Fine Gardening‘s pruning project guide. And for more Northern Plains regional reports, click here.

 

—Marti Neely, FAPLD, owns and operates Marti Neely Design and Associates in Omaha, Nebraska.

Photos: Marti Neely

Winter in the Northeast can leave one craving color. While cold, snowy days may tend to keep some of us gardeners indoors focused more on ordering seeds and plants than appreciating the outdoors, there are ways to bring more winter interest to those outdoor spaces. Adding more interesting varieties of conifers—those with foliage that is unique or unusual—can truly make borders and beds shine. Here are a few of the most colorful conifers to consider adding to your garden.

‘Verdoni Gold’ hinoki cypress

Chamaecyparis obtusa ‘Verdoni Gold’, Zones 4–8

Most of the hinoki cypress cultivars make excellent slow-growing specimens for nearly any garden, but the cultivar ‘Verdoni Gold’ particularly stands out. The golden foliage of this plant twists and twirls, making the tree appear like it has a yellow perm. It looks brilliant in winter when the leaves are set against white snow, but it’s even brighter in late winter during the mud season when we are looking for color in what is essentially still a dormant garden.

‘Skylands’ oriental spruce

Picea orientalis ‘Skylands’, Zones 4–8

Neighbors and garden visitors might be shocked to learn that there is a spruce tree cultivar that not only has golden needles but is also a relatively slow grower (reaching 30 feet tall in 30 years). ‘Skylands’ oriental spruce is one worth investing in. It’s a tree that checks off a lot of boxes: stunning color from autumn through spring, a tidy appearance, and hardiness through Zone 4.

‘Silberlocke’ Korean fir

Abies koreana ‘Silberlocke’, Zones 5–7

Long cherished by collectors of evergreens (yes, there are such people), this slow grower adds a silvery punch to mixed borders or foundation plantings. Conifer geeks know that sometimes the best color on fir trees appears on the undersides of the needles, yet ‘Silberlocke’ has found a way to bend the rules. It turns its needles upside-down so that the twisted needles face upward, showing off their silvery underbellies. And who doesn’t want a silvery evergreen in their garden? A percentage of these trees will remain shrublike, never forming a leader. If you can find one that does, however, it will grow into a pyramid shape, and the luckiest growers will see violet-colored cones form that sit upright on the branches.

‘Thunderhead’ Japanese black pine

Pinus thunbergii ‘Thunderhead’, Zones 5–10

It may be easy to overlook this rock star at the garden center if it is young, but once you set it out in the garden, it will be easy to see why it’s in such great demand by garden designers. ‘Thunderhead’ is a black pine that looks like no other black pine. As if the longer-than-usual deep green and shiny needles that grow in massive clusters aren’t enough, the white candles that form in late winter and spring make this plant look as if it had been struck by lightning (in a good way). Like most evergreens, this tree gets so much better with age. Growing more like a shrub than a tree, ‘Thunderhead’ doesn’t need to come with any warnings other than it might stop traffic in your neighborhood. So give in, and plant it where everyone can enjoy it, keeping in mind that it tops out at 10 feet tall at maturity.

Caring for these conifers

All of these evergreens will benefit from a site with soil that is well drained yet still holds some moisture. Remember, these are all mountain trees and are used to wind, sun, and extreme weather. Bright shade (shade that is either cast from a house or a garage on the north side but open to the bright sky) will work too, but if you choose a variety with golden needles, full sun will enhance the tree’s good looks. The acidic soil found throughout much of the Northeast suits these conifers well, but if your soil is alkaline, a slow-release fertilizer specifically for evergreens is recommended and can be applied once a year.

Try any one of these colorful conifers to brighten up your garden in winter and all year-round.

For more conifer recommendations, check out:

And for more Northeast regional reports, click here.

 

—Matt Mattus is the author of two books: Mastering the Art of Flower Gardening and Mastering the Art of Vegetable Gardening. He gardens in Worcester, Massachusetts.

Photos: Matt Mattus

In the Midwest, any bit of early spring color is welcome as we transition from the long winter months. Throw some early spring-flower fragrance into the mix, and that is a spring bonus. Of course, scent is subjective in terms of its appreciation, but few would argue against this sensory addition to the garden at any point in the season. Early scent can be provided even as the snow is melting and the planting of our tomatoes is still many weeks away. Fragrance that is emitted and wafts through our gardens can be contributed by woody plants, early blooming perennials, and select, cool-season annuals. Showcased below are just a few of the many options to consider for adding both color and fragrance to our Midwest gardens that are just beginning to awaken for spring. Consider the best placement of these plants not only for viewing their beauty but also for the enjoyment of their scent.

Plants with Early Spring-Flower Fragrance

‘Arnold Promise’ witch hazel is dazzling, with bright yellow blooms in late winter

‘Arnold Promise’ witch hazel (Hamamelis × intermedia ‘Arnold Promise’, Zones 5–9) is a magnificent, early-season dazzler. At 12 to 15 feet tall and wide, this bold hybrid blooms in late winter well before any foliage begins to emerge. The sweetly fragrant, bright yellow, confetti-like blooms are very conspicuous for both color and scent, with the best flowering observed in full-sun situations. Consistent moisture is ideal for establishing this selection, which also prefers rich organic and acidic soils in full sun to partial shade. The recipient of an Award of Garden Merit from the Royal Horticultural Society (United Kingdom), this variety offers some of the earliest of both garden color and engaging fragrance.

White forsythia provides sweetly scented blooms and structure for mixed borders

Blooming earlier than true forsythias (Forsythia spp. and cvs., Zones 4–9), white forsythia (Abeliophyllum distichum and cvs., Zones 5–9) features a rounded form and multistemmed habit that reaches 3 to 5 feet tall and wide. The profuse, fragrant white flowers cover the stems in early spring before the leaves emerge. The small, star-shaped flowers pack a sweet scent in proximity to the shrub, which should be placed where the fragrance can be enjoyed. While this shrub is heavy on spring interest, it is nice in a mixed border with full sun to partial shade, where it will offer structure and form as well.

‘Candidissimum’ Farrer viburnum is an excellent medium-size choice for full sun

Clusters of sweetly scented white flowers are blooming well before the foliage emerges on this interesting shrub. Native to China, ‘Candidissimum’ Farrer viburnum (Viburnum farreri ‘Candidissimum’ syn. V. farreri ‘Album’, Zones 5–8) prefers full sun to partial shade and moist but well-drained soils. At 6 to 8 feet tall and 4 feet wide, it is an excellent candidate for the mixed border or landscape locations where the blooms can be appreciated. A concern with such late winter and early spring blooming, of course, is a frost that will compromise the flowering display. However, when peak bloom is achieved, this shrub has a wonderfully potent fragrance.

Fragrant stocks are great for early fragrance in containers

Typically utilized as a seasonal addition to the garden in both spring and fall, fragrant stocks (Matthiola incana and cvs., Zones 7–10) prefer the cooler portion of the season and are not heat tolerant. The cultivar ‘Vintage Lavender’ is one of many selections available for early fragrance and reaches 15 to 20 inches tall and wide. Sturdy, well-branched, upright, and mounded, these full-sun biennial or tender perennial plants are excellent in spring containers or along the front of borders, where they’ll thrive during the cold nights and cool days prior to summer. Heat-tolerant plants should be substituted to take over the show during the hotter months of the year.

Hyacinth bulbs provide an intense pop of early spring color and fragrance

Planted as a bulb in the fall (at 6-inch planting depth), early-spring-blooming hyacinths (Hyacinthus orientalis and cvs., Zones 4–8) are well-known for their fragrance. While there are other fragrant, spring-blooming bulbs, hyacinths are the iconic selection for their contribution of color and fragrance in full sun to partial shade. Being deer and rodent resistant is a bonus, as is their value for early pollinators. Well-drained soil is ideal for establishment. The variety ‘Woodstock’ is an excellent example of the color intensity of this group of bulbs, with its purple-plum florets with a maroon sheen. Plants typically grow 8 to 12 inches tall and 4 to 6 inches wide.

 

—Mark Dwyer is the garden manager for the Edgerton Hospital Healing Garden in Edgerton, Wisconsin, and he operates Landscape Prescriptions by MD.

Despite erratic weather patterns in the Pacific Northwest during the cold months of the year, winter is an excellent time to take care of pruning your trees and shrubs. Early cold snaps and snow or extended mild temperatures can leave many of the plants feeling confused. In mild years, some deciduous woody plants can still have their leaves in mid to late December. But once the leaves are finally gone, and through late winter, it’s the perfect time to assess the shape of individual trees and shrubs and bust out your pruners, loppers, and even chainsaw for a little pruning. Below you’ll find some specialized pruning techniques that can help rejuvenate your plants and ensure that they grow well in the coming season.

Drastic measures: Winter is an excellent time for stooling

While there are several types of pruning styles and methods, winter is the best time for renovation pruning—hard or radical pruning done to tame or rejuvenate plants. The reason this timing is best is because the trees and shrubs are dormant, and they don’t respond with vigorous new growth after the winter pruning. Plus, the risk of insect pest and disease activity threatening the health of the plant is lower this time of year.

Good candidates for renovation pruning include those shrubs that sneak up on us. Sometimes we miss the obvious in our beds—like a shrub that looks beautiful one day and then suddenly seems to be overwhelming its neighbor. This is easy to see in winter. When you spot a shrub that has gotten out of control, the drastic method of pruning called “stooling” is sometimes needed. This is when you cut a shrub down to the ground.

During my winter assessment this year, I found in my garden a Ghost^® weigela (Weigela florida ‘Carlton’, Zones 4–8) crowding a nearby ‘Susan’ magnolia (Magnolia ‘Susan’, Zones 4–8) and neighboring barberries (Berberis spp. and cvs., Zones 3–9). It was obviously time to stool-prune this multistemmed shrub. When stooling a shrub, I use a battery-operated chainsaw to cut the stems down to about 6 inches above the ground. When all the debris is removed, you can see the positive effect this pruning will have on the surrounding shrubs. This is also a good time to remove dead or crossing branches on those neighboring shrubs, which will respond by filling the open space with healthy new growth during the coming year.

Now is also a good time to deal with suckers

This time of year is also the best time to look for suckers on plants. Often you will see shoots coming from the bottom of a tree or single-stemmed shrub. These can be suckers below a graft (scion) from a root stock or from trees and shrubs that are prone to suckering. If a sucker is allowed to continue growing, it will overwhelm the main plant and often cause the desirable stems to die off. Suckers must be removed to maintain an uncluttered and sculptural plant. Lilacs (Syringa spp. and cvs., Zones 3–8) are a good example of suckering shrubs. They often make dense hedges if suckers are allowed to grow unhindered. Walk through your garden and look closely at the trunks of trees and shrubs for signs of suckering. Remove any suckers that can be pulled out by hand, as this will often remove the growth point from the main plant. If they are too large to pull off, use a saw or hand pruners (depending on the size of the sucker) to cut as close to the trunk or root as possible.

 

 

Lift-pruning: Look out for plants being crowded from above too

Another form of crowding to look for and address in winter is crowding at the base of trees and shrubs. Ground covers and smaller shrubs underneath some of the bigger shrubs and trees can often disappear if the larger woody plants are not kept in check by pruning up, or lift-pruning. Camellias (Camellia spp. and cvs., Zones 6–10) are a good example of shrubs that can have branches hanging down to the ground. By pruning off some of the lower branches, you provide space for smaller shrubs to grow and bloom. In my garden, I have several types of ferns in my camellia beds that benefit from lift-pruning, which gives them more light. The ferns also provide a wonderful texture as they fill in nicely beneath the large shrubs.

If you have fruit trees and roses, January and February are the best times to prune those plants in the Northwest. In general, though, a good rule of thumb for winter pruning is to do it before bud break. Also, don’t forget to clean up cuttings and leftover leaves, which will help with overall disease prevention in the spring and summer. For help with other pruning methods, a good pruning book is indispensable. You can also check out Fine Gardening’s Project Guide on Pruning, which is chock-full of pruning how-tos, tips, and resources.

 

—Susan Calhoun is the owner of Plantswoman Design in Bainbridge Island, Washington.

Photos: courtesy of Susan Calhoun

I enjoy eating them raw in salads or cooked in stir fries, and I especially love them fermented as sauerkraut.

Cultivation and History

Cabbage is a cultivar of Brassica oleracea and is the same species but a different cultivar of other popular cole crops such as cauliflower, broccoli, and kale.

Heading cabbage has been a part of the human culinary story for a very long time and was likely domesticated sometime around 1000 BC where it was developed from wild cabbage (Brassica oleracea var. oleracea) which is found along the limestone cliffs of western Europe.

Cabbages became a significant part of the European diet by the middle ages. In Rome, it was a highly regarded vegetable considered something of an indulgence and was often used medicinally.

Around the same time, the Chinese and other Asian peoples developed their own versions from related brassica species which evolved into the Napa cabage (Brassica rapa subsp. pekinensis) as well as bok choy (Brassica rapa subsp. chinensis). Later they developed their own Brassica oleracea cultivar called Gai lan or Chinese broccoli (Brassica oleracea var. alboglabra).

The vegetable came to the Americas by sea in the 1500s. It had become a staple on sea voyages because it was easy to preserve, and its high concentration of vitamin C helped prevent scurvy on long journeys. Sauerkraut was used to prevent gangrene and treat wounds.

Later, other cultivars of Brassica oleracea were developed into the red cabbage (Brassica oleracea var. capitata f. rubra) and savoy (Brassica oleracea var. capitata f. sabauda).

These days, cabbages are a mainstay in culinary traditions around the globe. From sauerkraut, to coleslaw, cabbage rolls, and golabki, a Polish dish made with boiled cabbage leaves filled with minced beef or pork, onions, and rice, the variety of ways humans have devised to prepare and enjoy this staple crop are impressive.

This plant may look simple, but it has so much to offer! It is a no brainer in the garden, and luckily, it is a cinch to grow.

Propagation

From Seedlings/Transplanting

Perhaps best grown from seedlings, start plants early in spring, about 8 to 10 weeks before the last expected frost, so you can harvest before the summer gets too hot.

Transplant into the garden when plants are 3 to 4 inches tall, or 2 to 4 weeks before last frost, leaving 12 to 18 inches of space between each plant.

Don’t forget to harden off plants before transplanting!

For fall plantings, start seedlings in summer about 12 to 14 weeks before the first expected frost, transplanting into the garden when plants have reached 4 to 6 weeks of age. Fall is a great time to grow cabbage, as these cold tolerant crops tend to improve in flavor after exposure to light frosts.

Cabbage should be planted in full sun, in well-draining soil amended with organic material.

From Seed

Seeds can also be sowed directly as soon as the soil can be worked in the spring.

It can also be seeded repeatedly throughout the season for a continual harvest, though plants may need additional care and protection to survive the heat of summer. Check out our guide here to learn more about succession planting techniques.

Thin seedlings when they are about 5 inches tall.

How to Grow

Since cabbage are heavy feeders, it is important to incorporate plenty of aged manure or compost into the garden bed prior to planting. Using a garden fork, mix in a few inches of compost or aged manure and water thoroughly before setting out seeds or transplants.

You can also try adding a nitrogen rich amendment such as blood meal to the soil.

It is also important to ensure an appropriate pH range, 6.5-6.8 is ideal. Keeping the soil pH above 6.8 will help prevent clubroot, a common cabbage disease that thrives in acidic soil.

Continue to provide nitrogen boosts to growing plants, especially as heads are beginning to form. Side dress with compost every few weeks, use a liquid organic fertilizer, or apply a homemade liquid fertilizer such as comfrey tea, which is made from soaking comfrey leaves in water for a few days to draw out nutrients.

Growing Tips

Use shade covers in the heat of summer to keep young plants cool.

Use season extension tools such as row covers to get an early start in spring and/or keep plants growing later into the fall.

Always rotate crops to retain soil fertility and reduce risk of disease.

Cabbage does well when planted near aromatic herbs, which can help repel unwanted pests and improve the flavor of heads. Try planting near sage or rosemary to help deter cabbage moths.

Don’t plant cabbage near other brassicas, they will attract the same pests and diseases.

Avoid planting near strawberries, which can inhibit the growth of cabbage family plants. Similarly, planting near tomatoes can harm growth of tomato plants.

Managing Pests and Disease

There are a number of common pests and diseases that can affect cabbage plants. The following are some common problems to watch out for:

Pests

Cabbage Loopers

These very common and sneaky little pests can appear at any time during the growing season and can quickly munch their way through the leaves, leaving plants damaged and weak.

Because the caterpillars are green, they blend in easily with the plant and can be hard to see. The bigger they grow, the more damage they cause.

One larva can eat three times their body weight in one day!

Adults are gray-brown moths, which deposit small green eggs on plants that hatch as destructive larvae in only a few days. You can also look for small silky cocoons on stems or undersides of leaves.

Handpick loopers whenever you spot them.

Plant aromatic herbs that attract beneficial insect predators.

Flea Beetles

Flea beetles are small jumping insects that chew small holes in leaves. They overwinter in the soil and become active in spring when foliage begins to appear. Look for tiny white eggs around the base of plants or in the soil.

If an infestation becomes severe, they can destroy entire plants. They tend to feed on hot, sunny days.

Flea beetles can also transmit diseases to plants, so it is doubly important to keep infestations under control.

Floating row covers can be very effective when placed over young seedlings.

Root Maggots

Root maggots are white legless critters that lay eggs at the base of young plants. The adult tiny grey flies lay eggs around the base of plants in the spring. The maggots feed underground on roots, causing rotting, and potentially plant death. Wilting leaves with occasional yellow or blue foliage can be signs of damage.

Tunnels created in roots by maggots can also harbor diseases such as black rot.

Cover with floating row covers as soon as seeds are sown or transplant sets in to reduce the risk of problems.

You can also apply paper or cardboard rings around the base of transplants to prevent flies from laying eggs around the stem.

Disease

Clubroot

This soil borne fungus can infect most brassicas including cabbage. It infects plants through root hairs, causing roots to become deformed and rot, and making nutrient and water absorption difficult.

Common signs include wilting in heat and yellowing or browning of leaves.

Spores can spread by water, wind, or tools, and can live in the soil for up to 10 years. Though disease can appear in many conditions, too much moisture and low soil pH may increase risk of infection.

There is not much you can do after plants have become infected, other than to remove infected plants and wash gardening tools after use.

Prevention is key. Choose resistant varieties, rotate crops, and apply lime to raise soil pH.

Blackleg

Another common brassica infecting fungus, this disease causes dark spots on stems and leaves. It can overwinter in soil, on plant debris, and live in seeds. It is common in warm and wet conditions but can appear at any time.

Avoid planting infected seeds, remove infected plants, and remove and destroy crop debris after harvest.

Black Rot

This bacterial disease that turns leaf veins dark and produces a foul smell. The pathogen can spread throughout the plant through the vascular system, and eventually cause leaves to wilt and die.

It is common in wet and warm conditions, and especially thrives in overcrowded garden beds.

Plant crops in a well-draining area to reduce risk. Practice crop rotation, avoid overwatering, and remove infected plants.

Harvesting

Time to harvest can vary with variety and can range anywhere from 2 to 5 months from seeding.

Harvest cabbages when the heads are large and firm. Leave the wide outer leaves and cut the head out of the center with a sharp knife.

Move harvested plants into a shady location immediately or bring inside to avoid wilting.

It may be possible to get a second harvest of an early variety. If you leave the outer leaves and roots intact when doing the initial harvest, the plant will send up several new heads. Pull some off, leaving a few smaller ones to harvest when they are about the size of a tennis ball.

Once you are finished harvesting, remove the entire plant to reduce the risk of disease. Compost healthy plants but destroy those that have become diseased or infested.

Preserving

When storing, keep all leaves on the heads to protect the inner layers and retain moisture and do not wash until ready to use. Cabbage should be stored in a cold, moist location, about 32-40°F.

In the refrigerator, a head can last from 3 weeks to 2 months. Store in plastic bags to retain moisture.

To store in the root cellar, place heads in rows with space between them, hang from string off the ceiling, or store individually on the floor wrapped in newspaper. stored in this way, cabbages can keep for up to 4 months.

Tip: if you harvest the full plant, store roots in root cellar through the winter, and replant them in spring after a thaw. they will produce small edible sprouts, and eventually go to seed which can be saved for the following years crop.

Heads can be chunked up or shredded and be frozen, or of course, my favorite, fermented into sauerkraut!

We have long admired the elegant and thoughtful gardens created by London-based landscape designer Alexandra Noble, but we are especially charmed by her recent project in Camden, North London, in which a former parking spot has been transformed into a serene and pretty space. We got the lowdown on this miniature landscape that could inspire any city yard.

Photography courtesy of Alexandra Noble.

The entrance to the Camden mews is on the side of the house and accessed through the garden so the brief was to create a practical area, to be used daily, that would also provide views out from the owner’s music studio. The owner also wanted a minimal and contemplative design. With some clever landscaping tricks and a dense succession of spring bulbs and blossom through to summer flowering perennials, biennials, and shrubs, Noble has been able to create a transportative garden that provides year-round interest.

Central to the scheme is a beautiful multi-stem cherry —Prunus ‘Shirotae’—which echoes a neighbor’s cherry tree, but also works well with the garden’s original and arresting monochrome scheme. The white flowers have just a hint of pink that softens the overall effect.

More architectural plants including echium, euphorbia, and rosemary bring structure as well as year-round color. “It is my hope that year on year the planting will shift and everchange,” says Noble. “I like the idea of certain plants such as the Echium popping up unexpectedly across the space and adding to the sense of surreality with their tall proportions.”

An existing extension in black timber provided a starting point for the clever and arresting landscaping elements here. The boundary wall is clad in very large format porcelain tiles, creating a stunning backdrop to the plants and a perfect counterpoint to the building. The client is a fan of Donald Judd and the coursing of the wall tiles were a nod to the artist’s minimalist compositions. “Each tile is 1.6 x 0.8 m,” says the designer. “And I love the interplay of the tile’s large scale in the compact space.”
The path, in a fine limestone gravel, echoes the wall while beds are edged with curved powder-coated steel.

Today Barbara Owen is sharing some photos with us.

People may be tired of winter and looking for photos of spring, but even when a blanket of snow is covering the sleeping garden, there is still a lot to see.

With our climate becoming more unpredictable, sometimes the snow surprises us too early and the colorful fall landscape is dramatically transformed.

The trees outlined with delicate lines of snow

“Winter lace”

‘Lady in Red’ hydrangea (Zones 5–9) with snow blossoms

A long-clawed snow monster looks to come inside.

In the snow, footprints tell of a rabbit party on the patio.

The snow creates sculptures out of a rock wall.

Empty pots wait for spring.

The snow simplifies and highlights the view, clearing the drawing board for new ideas or rearrangements in the garden.

A light snow blanket highlighting the patterns along the path and the rain shadow under the trees

 

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Cornus kousa

Beauty is often unfairly associated with fragility, but the kousa dogwood absolutely destroys that stereotype.

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Thanks to the flowering dogwood’s well-known vulnerability to disease and pests, it’s easy to assume that every dogwood is just as susceptible.

But Cornus kousa has no such weakness. In fact, its toughness in the face of infection and infestation is what makes this tree so valuable, especially here in the United States.

Not that its appearance isn’t a major asset.

I’d argue that, in a beauty contest, the kousa dogwood would give the flowering dogwood a serious run for its money.

It has the full package: stunning blooms, fabulous fruits, lovely leaves, and a fantastic form.

As with any plant, growing this tree takes specialized knowledge. Good thing we packaged it up in a palatable growing guide for you!

Here’s a roadmap of where we’re going with all this:

What Are Kousa Dogwood Trees?

Hardy in USDA Zones 5 to 8, the kousa dogwood hails from China, Japan, and Korea.

This tree belongs to the Cornaceae family and the Cornus genus, alongside flowering C. florida and C. mas, the Cornelian cherry.

Cornus – from cornu, meaning “hard” in Latin – refers to the plant’s hard wood, while kousa is the Japanese word for “dogwood.”

C. kousa has a multi-stemmed habit and reaches a mature height and spread of 15 to 30 feet.

The habit starts off vase-shaped and becomes more rounded with age, with prominently layered branching.

These branches form distinctly horizontal lines, which are attractive in winter and provide a fantastic contrast with the vertical lines of nearby structures.

The smooth and light brown young bark grays and peels with age, revealing mottled mosaics of tan, brown, and gray in the exfoliated patches. In general, this tree has a slow growth rate, especially when it’s young.

The simple, oppositely-arranged leaves are lance to oval shaped, with typical dogwood-style leaf veins that originate from the midrib and meet at the sharply-pointed leaf tips.

The mature leaf color is dark green, and changes shades of reddish-purple to scarlet in autumn.

Masses of small, insignificant, yellowish-green flowers bloom in late May to early June, surrounded by creamy white leaf bracts that are often confused for blossoms.

Four-pointed, football-shaped bracts encircle each cluster of true flowers, and these tend to pinken with age.

In late August to October, the flowers give way to attractive pinkish-red to red drupes, which resemble raspberries somewhat in both size and form.

These fruits are borne on skinny stems, which further advertise the tasty-looking fruits to birds and squirrels.

This tree has two subspecies: kousa and chinensis. The former is native to Japan and Korea, while the latter originates in China.

In general, the Chinese subspecies has a more freely growing habit and produces larger flowers than the other subspecies.

Cultivation and History

Originally found only in their Asian countries of origin, kousas are sometimes referred to by alternative common names such as Japanese, Japanese flowering, Korean, and Chinese dogwood.

First brought to the US around 1875, these trees are now common in cultivation here.

The kousa dogwood is resistant to pests and diseases that pose a great danger to C. florida, which makes it quite ornamentally valuable.

Breeding C. kousa with C. florida, when done successfully, can result in a hybrid cross that’s both beautiful and less prone to health problems.

Many kousa dogwood cultivars have entered the market, and a handful have received the Royal Horticultural Society’s prestigious Award of Garden Merit.

Along with its disease and pest resistance, C. kousa is valued in landscaping for its frost-resistance and relative cold hardiness.

Plus, this tree’s berries are edible for humans as well as animals.

Sure, the rind is bitter, and the seeds can be a bit inconvenient to eat around, but the pulp is delicious. It can be used for making jams and jellies, or even eaten raw.

Propagation

As with most species of Cornus, it’s best to propagate C. kousa from seed, by taking stem cuttings, or via transplanting.

These methods are listed here in order of descending difficulty. See our guide to growing flowering dogwood for general propagation information.

An aspect of seed propagation that’s unique to C. kousa lies in its fruits.

Rather than producing a cluster of red, olive-shaped berries that ripen in August, C. kousa has spherical, spiky fruits that hang from stems and finish ripening by mid-September.

Additionally, its seeds are a bit bulkier and more irregularly-shaped than those of C. florida.

How to Grow

In my opinion, these trees are too gorgeous to grow in less-than-optimal conditions.

A kousa dogwood needs to be planted in USDA Hardiness Zones 5 to 8 for optimal growth and aesthetics. Additionally, it should ideally be situated in full sun.

Having said that, partial shade works as well. It’s also pretty cold- and frost-hardy for a Cornus, so don’t fret if your planting site toes the line between USDA Zones 4 and 5.

This tree needs to sit in well-draining soil that’s highly fertile, such as sandy loam. Mild acidity is another must, so aim for a pH somewhere in the 5.5 to 6.5 range.

It’s best to maintain soil moisture by watering whenever the top inch of soil feels dry to the touch.

But this species is more drought-resistant once mature than most other kinds of Cornus, so don’t stress if you slack on the supplemental irrigation.

Adding a few inches of compost or well-rotted manure to the root zone in springtime will help to maintain soil fertility. You shouldn’t need to use supplemental fertilizer if you stay on top of these annual amendments.

Growing Tips

• Plant in USDA Hardiness Zones 5 to 8.
• Ensure a soil pH of 5.5 to 6.5.
• Whenever the top inch of soil feels dry, deeply irrigate the root zone.

Pruning and Maintenance

The natural-looking form of most dogwoods develops a beautiful shape on its own without the need for any pruning.

But it definitely helps the tree’s appearance and health to prune any branches that are damaged, dead, or sickly whenever you happen to notice them.

Minor annual pruning in the spring to remove rubbing, crossing, and obtrusive branches will increase airflow and improve aesthetics.

Rake up fallen leaves after they drop. Maintaining a two- to four-inch layer of mulch over the root zone without coming into contact with the trunk will help to suppress weed growth and prevent moisture loss.

Cultivars to Select

For a specimen to get you started, you can buy a kousa dogwood in a #1, #4, or #5 container from Nature Hills Nursery.

Kousa Dogwood

Alongside the standard species, some awesome cultivars are available today. Let’s explore a few.

Gold Star

A 20-foot-tall and 15-foot-wide cultivar of the chinensis subspecies, ‘Gold Star’ has leaves with a broad splash of yellow variegation running vertically down the center, red leaf stems, and the white bracts are a bit less pointed than those of the standard species.

Come fall, the yellow variegation turns red, and the edges of the leaves morph to a reddish-purple hue.

With an overall droopy form to boot, ‘Gold Star’ earns its name in both beauty and distinction.

Milky Way

Another chinensis cultivar, ‘Milky Way’ has prolific and bright blooms, just like the stars in our galaxy.

Attaining a 20-foot height and width at maturity, this variety flowers heavily in June, with leaves that turn shades of orange-red to scarlet in fall.

This cultivar produces large berries that mature in summer, and these persist long into late fall past the point of leaf drop. With its unparalleled flowering, ‘Milky Way’ is not a variety to ignore.

Miss Satomi

Also sold under the trade names ‘Rosabella’ and ‘New Red,’ ‘Miss Satomi’ has beautiful, rose-colored leaf bracts, and reaches a height of 12 to 15 feet with a 10- to 12-foot spread when fully grown.

This variety is an awesome choice for those who seek a change from the usual white “blooms.” Plus, ‘Miss Satomi’ was a 1993 winner of the RHS Award of Garden Merit!

Moonbeam

Want size over quantity? With ‘Moonbeam,’ you’ll have flowers twice as big as those of the standard species, with each bloom measuring seven to eight inches in diameter.

At a mature height and width of 15 to 25 feet, ‘Moonbeam’ proves that bigger (flowers) sometimes are better.

Wolf Eyes

Even though C. kousa is already a small understory tree, ‘Wolf Eyes’ is even smaller, topping out at 15 feet in height and width.

Along with its diminutive size, ‘Wolf Eyes’ flaunts leaves edged with white that turn a stunning pink to red in fall.

This variegation in the foliage is quite stable, and the leaves are less likely to burn than those of other variegated types of Cornus.

This plant is slow-growing, and actually prefers partial shade to full sun.

Another recipient of the RHS Award of Garden Merit, granted in 2012, ‘Wolf Eyes’ fits in the shaded, tight spaces of gardens where other trees won’t – and does it with style.

Managing Pests and Disease

One of the best traits of C. kousa is its resistance to pests and pathogens.

Common Cornus issues such as anthracnose, powdery mildew, and dogwood borer infestations are not a problem for this tree.

Using sterilized gardening tools, disease-free plants, and clean soil are all wise ways of preventing potential problems, of course.

Selecting cultivars renowned for their resilience is another smart strategy.

But for the most part, a C. kousa doesn’t require the concern over infestation and infection that, say, a C. florida specimen would.

Be sure to select an appropriate planting site with adequate sun exposure and soil drainage to avoid issues with rot, and to promote flowering.

Best Uses

Kousa dogwood is gorgeous enough to pose as a specimen in the landscape – it’s a one-plant show.

But when planted in multiples and arranged in a line, these trees make for a solid and aesthetic border. It’ll certainly look better than a wall or fence, if I do say so myself!

As a foundation planting, this tree’s horizontal branching pairs quite nicely with the vertical lines formed by the corners and edges of buildings, making the man-made structures somehow appear larger.

And it goes without saying that a C. kousa is the perfect planting for those who want the dogwood aesthetic sans any significant pest and disease risk.

Quick Reference Growing Guide

Plant Type:	Deciduous flowering tree	Flower/Foliage Color:	Golden yellow, white/dark green
Native to:	China, Japan, Korea	Maintenance:	Moderate
Hardiness (USDA Zones):	5-8	Tolerance:	Cold, deer, dogwood anthracnose, dogwood borers, frost, powdery mildew
Bloom Time:	May to June/late spring to early summer	Soil Type:	Moist, fertile
Exposure:	Full sun to partial shade	Soil pH:	5.5-6.5
Time to Maturity:	5-7 years	Soil Drainage:	Well-draining
Spacing:	20 feet apart, 6 feet from structures	Attracts:	Bees, other pollinating insects, songbirds, squirrels
Planting Depth:	1/2 inch (seeds), depth of root system (transplants)	Uses:	Border, foundation planting, specimen
Height:	15-30 feet	Family:	Cornaceae
Spread:	15-30 feet	Genus:	Cornus
Water Needs:	Moderate	Species:	Kousa
Common Pests and Diseases:	Root rot	Subspecies:	Chinensis, kousa

Bark up the Right Tree

As a tree enthusiast, it pains me to say this… but not every tree should be planted. Like a Bradford pear tree, for instance.

Planting a species known today to be invasive throughout most parts of the US would be a total mistake, just like misinterpreting a bartender’s friendliness for flirtatiousness.

But I’m confident in saying that the kousa dogwood is definitely worthy of a spot in your landscape if you live in a suitable Hardiness Zone. Its beauty and resilience are enough to earn it a place in your garden.

Have questions, concerns, or remarks to share? Put ’em in the comments section below!

Interested in growing other types of landscape trees? Have a look at these guides next:

These white flowers left an impression on me, and I knew they had to go in my family’s garden. It took some shopping (this was before smartphones and the “Everybody Gets a Website” age), but we acquired some and planted them. Beautiful, fragrant flowers, here I come!

Flash forward a couple of years and that little patch dedicated to lily of the valley grew into a huge swath of nearly uncontrollable green.

It took a few seasons of dedicated removal, but we did finally curb the lily of the valley, and added some plastic barriers to prevent it from spreading more in the future.

It’s a beautiful plant with a delightful and aromatic scent, but adding it to the garden without the right preparation can lead to major headaches in the future. Let’s get into what lily of the valley is all about, and how to add it to your yard and garden with minimal future fuss.

What is Lily of the Valley?

Botanically known as Convallaria majalis, lily of the valley grows naturally throughout the northern hemisphere in Europe, Asia, and North America. Also known as May bells, May lily, muguet, Mary’s tears, and Our Lady’s tears, the plant is highly scented flowering herbaceous perennial that normally grows in woodland and forested settings and in cooler, temperate regions.

C. majalis is a perennial plant. Two basal leaves grow from the ground and have a lovely flower stalk that pops from between, and it is adorned with up to 15 tiny, fragrant, bell-shaped flowers.

In cooler climates, the leaves can stay year-round, but they tend to shrivel and disappear during hot weather.

Lily of the valley is related to asparagus and grows through stolons and rhizomes, spreading out into huge colonies. This eagerness to spread is why it becomes so difficult to tame in the garden, unless properly restricted.

A Beautiful Standard

Many countries in Europe are awfully fond of lily of the valley. It’s a traditional (and expensive) bridal bouquet flower for weddings, including the bouquet used in the wedding of Prince William and Kate Middleton.

It’s the birth flower of the month of May, the time of year when lily of the valley is most often in full display. C. majalis is also the floral emblem of Yugoslavia, and is Finland’s national flower.

In Christian mythology, lily of the valley is said to have sprung from the ground where the Virgin Mary’s tears fell during the crucifixion. Alternatively, the plant is said to have sprung from the ground when Eve weeped for being kicked out of the Garden of Eden.

The attention to Christian mythology is what earns the plant its nickname, “Mary’s tears.” It also spawned a popular gospel tune by Willie Nelson. It isn’t my style, but hey, maybe you’ll enjoy it!

Beautiful But Poisonous

C. majalis is incredibly toxic. Seriously, every part of the plant is poisonous.

If you’ve got it in the yard or see it in the field, make sure children and animals abstain from eating the red berries, or chomping on the leaves or flowers.

The plant possesses nearly 40 different cardiac glycosides, an organic compound used to treat congestive heart issues. However, in anything but accurate and meticulously measured amounts, these toxins can prove to be deadly.

Lily of the valley produces a very rare amino acid as well, but this also contributes to the toxicity of the plant.

It’s better to be safe than sorry, so wash your hands after handling C. majalis to avoid accidental contamination.

Propagation

The plant generally spreads by forming large colonies through rhizomes (underground root-like stems) from which it produces upright spiky shoots (often called “pips”) at the end of the stolons during the summer.

The pips grow to into 6–12 inch stems and produce one or two 4–10 inch upright dark-green, spear-like leaves. All of the upright stems remain connected underground with other shoots and form large colonies if left unchecked.

Lily of the valley can also spread itself by producing orange-red berries with several seeds each.

However, the plant is self-sterile meaning that it requires multiple individual plants for pollination that aren’t connected by a rhizome/stolon structure. If a mass of Lily of the Valley is based from one single plant forming a colony, they’ll never grow berries.

Bloom Type

Lily of the valley produces strands (raceme) of five to fifteen small, bell-shaped flowers form as strands on top of a single stem above the leaves. Each bloom consists of six white (most common) or pink tepals. The flowers are extremely fragrant and are used in perfumes and potpourri.

As previously mentioned, these flowers can produce red berries with seeds if conditions are right.

Bloom Time

Lily of the valley typically flowers in early to mid spring for three or four weeks – which is significantly longer than most other spring perennials. In colder climates their bloom time may start later and extend into early summer.

This fragrant woodland perennial can also be used as a houseplant and be forced into blooming anytime of the year.

Growing Conditions

C. majalis is at its best in areas with a cool winter, although it will grow in USDA Hardiness Zones 2-9.

I spotted my first lily of the valley adjacent to a low, wet, and swampy patch in the forest. In the years since then I’ve encountered C. majalis in similar locations, and its preferred habitat tends to include a few key features:

• Shaded from the sun, often growing around the base of trees
• Rich, slightly acidic soil (pH 6-6.5), like the kind you’ll get from the forest floor
• Moist and well drained soil
• Space to spread out and grow

When we plant lily of the valley in our yards, it’s our goal to duplicate these conditions as best we can.

Planting for Success

This is one of those garden additions that grows like wild, but only when the right conditions are met. I’ve got a patch of it growing in my front yard underneath a yew hedge that is very unhappy, so believe me when I tell you: you want to make C. majalis happy.

Luckily, it’s easy to take care of that. Here are some things to keep in mind:

Light

Lily of the valley really digs its time in the shade. I think it does the best when it gets some morning light, maybe a few hours worth, and gets to kick back in the cool shade from about 10 a.m. onward.

Although it can handle more sun, in exchange, it needs much more water to perform. And in conditions that are too sunny, it simply won’t bloom.

As the season carries on and we are bombarded with summer sun, expect to see your C. majalis wilting, getting crispy, and looking otherwise unpleasant. This is a natural and expected phase for the plant.

Simply cut back and remove the leaves once they’re more crispy than green to clean up the area.

Nutrition

Don’t worry about spending lots of money on fancy fertilizers for lily of the valley!

A yearly addition of rich, organic compost is ideal for fueling C. majalis. Apply a nice layer of mulch, maybe 1 to 2 inches in depth, and let it break down naturally to supplement the soil around your lily of the valley.

Keeping it in Check

Simultaneously a pro and con of planting lily of the valley is its desire to spread out and grow. You’ve got a few options here…

1. Let It Go Wild

If you’ve got the space and conditions for it, let that lily fly wild! It’ll happily spread out and fill in whatever space it is given. This can be an attractive method to control erosion.

2. Keep It Fenced In

Use a quality garden edging to cordon off your lily of the valley, to keep it where it’s supposed to be.

This is an appealing choice because it guarantees a thick, healthy covering of C. majalis exactly where you want it to be, and prevents it from sneaking into new terrain.

3. Divide It Regularly

My method of choice is to allow lily of the valley to grow freely, then divide out the chunks I find undesirable in the early winter. November or December is ideal for doing this, but early spring works too.

At this point I’m able to shuffle the plants around to new locations in the yard, or I can offer extras to friends and family.

We don’t need to be too careful with the root stock here. It responds well to being divided, although it may take a full year before transplanted sections will produce flowers.

Find more tips on dividing lily of the valley here.

Quick Reference Growing Guide

Plant Type:	Perennial	Flower Color:	White, pink (rare)
Native to:	Temperate Europe and Asia	Maintenance:	Minimal
Hardiness (USDA Zone):	2-9, prefers cool winters	Tolerance:	Full sun in cooler climates
Bloom Time:	Spring	Soil Type:	Rich and moist, like that of a woodland
Exposure:	Partial to full shade	Soil pH:	Slightly acidic, 6.0-6.5
Time to Maturity:	Plant in fall for spring growth	Soil Drainage:	Well-draining
Spacing:	Can be bunch planted	Companion Planting:	Hostas
Planting Depth:	1/8 inch (seeds) or depth of root ball (transplants)	Uses:	Mass plantings, beds under tree cover
Height:	12-22 inches	Attracts:	Bees and butterflies
Spread:	Densely packed rhizome-based growth	Family:	Asparagaceae
Water Needs:	Moderate, keep moist if possible	Genus:	Convallaria
Pests & Diseases:	Fungus and slugs	Species:	majalis

Until the Next Time

Not every garden has room for C. majalis, but those who do are wise to add it to their plots.

A fragrant, early bloomer that’s ready to go is a special addition that can stand alongside shade and part-sun lovers like astilbe and hosta. Or, for an annual option, consider the striking torenia to complement those soft white stalks of flowers.

Let us know how lily of the valley is working in your garden, and share your advice and anecdotes in our comments section below!

And for even more on adding beautiful spring color and fragrance to your garden, you can check out some of our other flower growing guides such as:

After all the water, the space, and the maintenance, some vegetables aren’t worth the effort to grow. But with food costs rising, some are definitely worth your time! Here are the cheapest vegetables to grow that will get you the best bang for your buck.

This post at a glance:

The 7 Cheapest Vegetable Seeds That Are Worth Your Time

If you want to reduce your food bill while also enjoying fresh, delicious produce, I encourage you to turn to your garden rather than the grocery store for these specific veggies.

1. Lettuce

Lettuce is the one vegetable I consistently grow in my garden. If you’ve seen the price of lettuce lately, then you will want to go out and get a packet of seeds ASAP.

One packet of seeds will cost you the same amount of money as one container of lettuce at the grocery store, which you’ll inevitably throw out half of.

The one packet will last you all summer, and you can easily succession plant for an endless supply of fresh greens. You can also cut off leaves and leave the root to produce even more lettuce for your table. Talk about cheap vegetables!

To get the most out of your lettuce, grow it in a container to keep it away from slugs, rats, and other creatures who like to eat lettuce as much as we do.

2. Sprouts

Sprouts are an underappreciated vegetable, in my opinion. You can grow them any time of the year, even in the winter when it’s difficult to get fresh vegetables.

With a few seeds, you can have a Mason jar full of sprouts to put on salads, sandwiches, bowls, garnishes, and more. Or, try these 2 other sprout-growing methods and grow them on your kitchen counter!

If you haven’t eaten many sprouts before or aren’t sure which to start with, I highly recommend you check out this post about the best sprouts to eat and what they taste like. You’re sure to find a sprout for you!

3. Tomatoes

If your climate is warm enough for tomatoes, they are definitely some of the cheapest vegetable seeds. One tomato plant gives you SO much fruit to enjoy.

When you grow tomatoes, the taste is infinitely better than store-bought. They’re delicious straight from the vine, sweetened in the sun.

Many different seed varieties are out there, and you can get started seed starting indoors. And when it’s time to harvest, there are many ways to preserve all the extra tomatoes.

And yes, technically, tomatoes are a fruit, but they get the vegetable treatment in my eyes.

4. Rhubarb

Since rhubarb is a perennial, you can enjoy it year after year. It also requires very little maintenance until it’s time to harvest.

Rhubarb isn’t the most popular vegetable, so it’s not always easily accessible at the grocery store. If you love to make rhubarb pie or freeze the stalks, it’s worthwhile to dedicate a little corner of your garden to a spring rhubarb plant.

5. Swiss Chard

Swiss chard grows well in cold climates, adding a pop of colour to the garden. You can eat both the stems and leaves, so it’s a vegetable you can get some value from.

At the grocery store, Swiss chard can sometimes be hard to find. It grows well in the garden, so it’s easy to get the seeds instead of buying them from the grocery store.

Swiss chard can get lots of holes from bugs, so you may also want to grow it in a container (or a vertical planter like I did) if possible.

6. Radish

Even those who can’t keep a houseplant alive can grow a radish. They are one of the easiest and cheapest vegetables to plant since they have an ultra-quick maturity rate of about 3-5 weeks.

You can pop them just about anywhere, working well between rows of other veggies. Plus, they’re a great companion plant!

7. Carrots

Last on this list of the cheapest vegetables, we have carrots. Carrots grown in the garden have a much better taste than anything you get at the store, and it’s easy to grow them.

Carrots also can stay in the ground long, getting even sweeter after a frost. Most climates can grow them, so they get the check of approval from me.

Cheapest Vegetables: Honorable Mentions

These cheap vegetables didn’t make the cut, but they may be worthwhile for some.

• Asparagus. Asparagus is a notoriously expensive vegetable to buy. However, you can’t harvest it in your first season, so it’s not necessarily easy to grow for someone looking to save money on vegetables.
• Potatoes. Potatoes are very cheap and easy to grow. However, they take up quite a bit of space and are already pretty cheap to buy at the grocery store. But if you have the room (hint: a wine barrel might be the perfect place to plant potatoes!) and want special varieties, go for it!
• Zucchini. Zucchinis are an incredibly prolific plant for someone who eats a lot of it. So much so that we often have to joke about giving them away. They do take up quite a bit of room and aren’t necessarily expensive to buy at the grocery store in the first place.  
• Garlic. Also incredibly easy to grow but very cheap at the grocery store.

Frequently Asked Questions About Cheap Vegetables

There you have it! What vegetable caught your eye? I’d love to hear what you’ll be planting.

More Posts About Growing Food

Lent begins with Ash Wednesday.

The first time ashes were imposed on my forehead, I found a cacophony of voices inside me: “Come! Now you have betrayed your background! This is straight back to the Dark Ages. Fancy Saint Paul’s doing this!”

I knew it was not so when the priest came along with the little pot of damp ashes and with his thumb smudged my forehead—my forehead, the very frontal and crown of my dignity as a human being!—and said, “Remember, O man, that dust thou art and unto dust thou shalt return.”

I knew it was true. I would return to dust, like all men, but never before had mortality come home to me in this way. Oh, I had believed it spiritually. But surely we need not dramatize it this way…

Perhaps we should, says the Church. Perhaps it is good for our souls’ health to recall that our salvation, far from papering over the grave, leads us through it and raises our very mortality to glory. We, like all men, must die. I felt the strongest inclination to wave the priest past as he approached me in the line of people kneeling at the rail. Not me—not me—like Agag coming forth delicately, hoping that the bitterness of death was past.

Yes, you. Remember, O man…

-Thomas Howard, Evangelical is not Enough

 

Cross and ash on white background by czarny_bez

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When decorating or renovating your home, something as simple as an extravagant chandelier, bright patterned scatter cushions, and even a few wall paintings can reinvent any room.  For any homeowner, the interior décor is a key feature of the home.  This is because the décor can add value to the home, affect your comfort level and serenity, and make a house into a home. 

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Changes in the last few years have led to many people needing to work from home full-time.  As a result, there is a dire need for the home décor to be comfortable, cozy, and peaceful.  One of the simplest ways to reinvent your home is to use the right type, color, and texture of rug.  There are several types of rugs, such as boho rugs, woodland area rugs, and aloha rugs.

 

The interior design industry is vast, dynamic, and ever-changing, much like the fashion industry.  Trends can last anything from just a few months to several years.  One interior design trend that has been gaining much attention in recent years is boho-chic design.  Before we delve into how you can create a boho-chic theme in your home, let us look at what a boho-chic design is.

 

Designing with a Boho-Chic Style

The boho-chic vibe is based on creating an atmosphere that exudes self-expression, comfort, and individualism.  Freedom and expressiveness are the key elements of this style.  As such, there aren’t any set rules or guidelines when decorating for a boho-chic vibe.  Designing a boho-chic themed home can include just about anything from boho carpets to wooden flooring to using several plants as decorative pieces.  The easiest way to create a boho-chic style room is to use shaggy carpets, several throw pillows, and one- or two-house plants.

 

The boho-chic design focuses on decorating your home in a way that suits your tastes, style, and interests.  As a result, there isn’t a particular color or pattern theme to follow when decorating for boho-chic.  However, in terms of art, the boho style leans toward anything that gives an earthy, energetic look with an individualist focus.  A few classic examples include handmade art, travel souvenirs, wooden furniture, plush furniture, and carpets.  Most boho rugs are hand-tufted from wool, making them economical and high-quality.

 

Now that we know a little about the elements of the boho-chic vibe let us look at how you can create the theme using area rugs.

 

The Perfect Shape of Area Rug for Your Home

Before deciding on the color and texture of an area rug, you should first think about what shape of the rug you need.  Boho-chic rugs come in several shapes, such as ovals, circles, squares, rectangles, and hallway runners.  The shape of the rug you want largely depends on how you intend to use the rug.

 

For instance, if the area rug is going to be used in a high-traffic zone such as a lounge or dining room, then a large rectangle-shaped area rug will be best.  However, if you want to use the rug to include different sections in a large open-plan room, then a runner, square, or circle-shaped area rug will be a better fit.

 

The Ideal Placement of the Area Rug

Area rugs can be used in just any room of your home, including outdoor living spaces.  However, the way they are placed is key to creating a comfortable, cozy, and inviting space.  Here are some tips that you can follow on how to place area rugs in different rooms of your home:

 

Area Rugs in the Living Room

In the living room, the area rug should be the center focus of the room.  As such, the area rug should be in the middle of the room with different furniture surrounding it.  In this case, the sofa or chairs should not be placed on the rug.  However, if this is impossible, only the front of the couch or chair should be placed on the edge of the area rug.  It will be best if a small table can be placed in the center of the area rug.

 

Area Rugs in the Dining Room

In this room, the area rug should be large enough that the back legs of the dining room chairs should be placed on the inside of the area rug, as shown below.

Area Rugs in the Kitchen Area

You will have more freedom regarding where and how you place rugs in the kitchen. The easiest to place a rug under the bar stools.  Alternatively, a runner can be placed along the kitchen counter.  In this instance, the rug should be placed near the counter that has the stove.

 

Incorporating A Boho-Chic Style into Your Home

This article highlights ways to use area rugs to include a boho-chic theme décor in your home.  The boho-chic theme is one of the simplest interior design styles.  The key to a boho-chic vibe is to have a personal touch in your home décor.

 

Pipes can easily get clogged because they carry wastewater and other substances from the house to the septic tanks. The blockage can happen because of items that aren’t supposed to go into the pipes, like oil, grease, tree roots, hair, and personal hygiene products like baby wipes or sanitary towels. If you don’t get rid of the clogs early on, they can ultimately become a significant nuisance and even damage your pipes.   

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Your house can also become unhygienic because dirty sewage water and foul odors may fill your home. Using the toilet, kitchen sinks, or bathroom can also make it challenging because a water pool will always form around the drainage hole.  

Thus, begin by determining the cause of your clogged pipes and then apply simple procedures to unclog them. You can also have experts assist you if the clogs are extensive. With that in mind, below are eight things to do if your pipes keep getting clogged:

1. Consult Expert Plumbers

You may have already tried do-it-yourself (DIY) fixes to clear clogs from your pipes, but it doesn’t work. It’s prudent to have an expert come in and thoroughly inspect the pipes to identify the problems. A root may have grown into the pipes, or there’s too much buildup of grease, calcium, or hygiene products. These are issues that may be difficult to fix independently without the right tools. At this stage, the pipes need to be checked extensively from the inside to spot where the problem is. 

Consequently, it’s recommended to seek assistance from local service providers, such as professional plumbers in Greenwood Indiana. Due to their vast expertise in dealing with such issues, you can contact them for assistance. They’ll thoroughly inspect the pipes using advanced plumbing tools and clear all hard-to-reach clogs in the pipe or replace them with new ones. Notably, working with reliable plumbers enables you to find a lasting solution to clogged drains. In addition, you can contact them to do routine inspections. 

1. Try Out Home Made Solutions (Baking Soda And Vinegar)

You can remove clogs from your pipes using household items like baking soda and vinegar. Mix the two and pour the solution into your drain to help unclog it. Add half a glass of baking soda to a cup of vinegar and top off with hot water. Then pour the solution down the drain.

Next, cover the sink and run hot water for a few minutes. If the clogs are too massive, the process may not effectively work on the first attempt. Thus, you can do it repeatedly to achieve the intended results. 

1. Conduct A Hot Water Flush

Try flushing your drains with hot water to help remove the clogs in your pipes. Boil a pail of water, then pour it down the pipes. The heat helps loosen and move the pipe blockages. Moreover, it aids in emulsifying grease, a significant contributor to kitchen clogs. 

However, please exercise caution when using the hot water technique because it’s mostly effective for metal and ceramic pipes. Remember that polyvinyl chloride (PVC) pipes can rupture if you use boiling water. 

1. Use A Plunger

A plunger is another excellent way to rid your pipes of clogs. Run water into the sink until it’s halfway full, then put the plunger’s beaker in the drain hole. Then, firmly pump the plunger back and forth. The pressure propels the debris down the drain and into the septic tank, freeing them of clogs. Check periodically to see if the water has been removed. If it fails the first time, repeat the pumping procedure until it works. It’s an effective method if hard substances are stuck in your pipes.

1. Buy A Drain Snake

A drain snake is a tool used by plumbers to clear severe obstructions. You can buy a drain snake from the local hardware store and handle the task yourself or hire a licensed plumber to do the job for you. To insert the device, you must initially remove the sink stopper. Then, eliminate the residues you can see on the surface and insert the snake. You must have reached the clog if you feel it isn’t moving.

Start spinning the coil in the rear of the cable. It rotates swiftly, breaking off the clogs until they’re all eradicated. However, the device only works if the clogs are almost close to the drain hole because it can’t reach further into the pipes. Besides, you’d only want to try this technique if the others don’t work because the snake can damage your pipes.

1. Put Up Filters

It’s best to prevent clogging problems using filters. A filter can be a wire mesh that traps the residues like hair, food substances, or soap before they pass through into the pipes. After placing the filters, clean them periodically to remove the surface dirt that might accumulate and clog the drain holes.

1. Use Chemical Drain Solution 

Typically, chemicals effectively break down clogs. For instance, you can use chemicals like copper sulfate to help remove clogs caused by tree roots. But ensure it doesn’t spill outside the pipe, as it can kill plants and trees. Moreover, chemicals can damage your pipes if the material is prone to corrosion. 

It would be best to check the active ingredients on the chemical’s packaging before buying it to ensure it’s compatible with your pipes. Alternatively, you can use a bacteria-based drain cleaner to assist in unclogging your pipes, as they are better suited for pipes. 

1. Regularly Clean Your Pipes 

Pipes can get clogged anytime, even if only small particles go through them. So, use solutions to clean them at least once every week thoroughly. It helps prevent pipe corrosion and buildup, which can cause pipes to burst or clog. Otherwise, you can have plumbers inspect and unclog your pipes every month.

Conclusion 

Clogging is a significant nuisance you shouldn’t have to deal with regularly as a homeowner. You can use DIY solutions to assist you in unclogging the drains. If the problems persist, engage the services of expert plumbers to help you fix plumbing issues and provide a lasting solution.