Category: Home & Garden

As people explore ways to avoid relying on big industry for every aspect of their lives, DIY natural plant dyes have become hugely popular. The subtle yet vibrant hues are a revelation, as demonstrated by the garden designer Lottie Delamain at the Chelsea Flower Show last year, who showed up to the debut of her Textile Garden for Fashion Revolution dressed in a pale green jumpsuit (dyed with nettle), accompanied by associates in muted pink (thanks to a mix of madder and cherry bark), and warm yellow (courtesy of daffodil and dandelion). While the science of dyeing takes some mastery, the added effort of sewing or knitting can be a deal-breaker for some of us. So it’s exciting to discover an expert practitioner with a background in graphics and illustration, demonstrating a wider application of natural colors: from watercolor pigment to screen-printing inks and paper dyes (as well as textiles).

Jacqui Symons’ studio is on the edge of Manchester, England. She explores nature’s possibilities through foraging and growing, and she explores further in her workshop, recording the alchemy that follows. Jacqui is generous in sharing her knowledge; she began Slow Lane Studio to find a less consuming, less polluting, and slower approach to her art practice. She teaches long and short courses, and is building a plant pigment library for anyone to reference on the Slow Lane Studio site or on her Instagram.

Join us for a taster.

Photography courtesy of Slow Lane Studio.

Jacqui believes that plant-based color rivals or exceeds synthetic color, not just for its ecological value but for its visual qualities, partnering seamlessly with botanical subjects. She began by researching and developing natural pigments to make oil-based ink for printing. Being scientific as well as artistic, she has moved on to making watercolours, pastels, inks, pastes for screen printing as well as beautiful dry powdered pigments, all from plant sources.

The ink colors gleaned here are from walnut, buckthorn berry, oak gall, and cones of Sequoia wellingtonia. With the fungi painting, iron water has been added for the accents; it reacts with the base hue, turning oak gall into a rich black, for instance.

“When I did the site visit at Compton Verney last year, I was really pleased to find some of the classic dye plants and trees already growing there.” says Jacqui. “The famous Wellingtonia Avenue caught my eye so I decided to try making a dye bath and ink from some of the dropped cones I found underneath the Wellingtonia (redwood) trees. It produced this lovely chestnut colour with slight pink tones.”

Jacqui’s Damascene conversion happened when she was on a residency at Kingsbrae Botanical Gardens in Canada. “A local artist asked me if my oil-based printmaking inks were environmentally-friendly, and I realised I didn’t actually know,” she recalls.

I’m Libby Breitenbaugh, and I garden in Zone 8a in Irmo, South Carolina. I’m sharing a few photos from summer 2022. I have been gardening for over 30 years. I previously shared photos of the butterfly garden I started in 2016 (Libby’s Butterfly Garden in South Carolina). When I began gardening for wildlife, my butterfly garden slowly transformed into a bird-, bee-, and butterfly-friendly garden. I also incorporate herbs and vegetables in my garden. I stopped using chemical pesticides and opted for natural alternatives. Since doing so my bee population has doubled. I also compost my kitchen scraps and yard trimmings. My garden consists of natives, perennials, and annual plants. I have both nectar and host plants, and I always include milkweed for the monarchs. You can have a beautiful garden that supports backyard wildlife. My garden supplies shelter, food, and water for my all my visitors. I also enjoy taking photos of my garden and all its visitors.

Clematis ‘Henryi’, Zones 4–8

Bumblebee on Salvia farinacea (Zones 7–10 or as annual)

This garden path is lined with lambs’ ears (Stachys byzantina, Zones 4–8), with the rest of the bed filled with colorful flowers including coneflowers (Echinacea hybrids, Zones 4–8) and Salvia ‘Vista’ (Zones 9–11 or as an annual).

This garden urn is overflowing with petunias (Petunia hybrids, annual), with an upright spire of Cordyline australis (Zones 9–11) and a trailing curtain of golden creeping Jenny (Lysimachia nummularia ‘Aurea’, Zones 3–9).

A bright male American goldfinch hangs out on a zinnia (Zinnia elegans, annual) flower.

A monarch butterfly fuels up on at a butterfly bush (Buddleia davidii, Zones 5–9).

Beautiful pathway through the gardens

A pipevine swallowtail butterfly on a zinnia

A female ruby-throated hummingbird gathers nectar from a pentas (Pentas lanceolata, Zones 10–11 or as an annual).

These phlox look like they might be the ‘Fashionably Early’ (Phlox hybrid, Zones 4–8) hybrid phlox, which bloom earlier and stay shorter than the traditional garden phlox (Phlox paniculata, Zones 4–8).

 

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From the Greek helein, to kill, bora, food; some species are poisonous (Ranunculaceae). Hellebore. Hardy perennials, often retaining their leaves through the winter, with thick fibrous roots. All flower early in the year and the flowers are long lasting. Most of them have handsome, leathery, divided leaves, sometimes spiny. They are natives of southern Europe and western Asia.

Species cultivated H. abchasicus, 1 foot, flowers purplish-green, January to March; vars. coccineus, wine red, venousus, rosy-purple with dark veins. H. argutifolius (syn. H. corsicus), 2-3 feet, apple-green flowers in February and March which persist until mid-summer. H. foetidus, stinking hellebore, 2-3 feet, pale green flowers, the petals tipped purple, February and March, native plant. H. guttatus, feet, white flowers, heavily spotted with crimson inside, January to April, the parent of most spotted hybrids in cultivation. H. lividus, 3 feet, green flowers soon turning brown; doubtfully hardy.

H. niger, 1.5 feet; Christmas rose, 1 foot, white, saucer-shaped flowers with a boss of golden-yellow anthers ; vars. Altifolius and macranthus, longer stems. ‘Potters Wheel’ is a fine cultivar. H. x nigricors, (H. niger x H. corsicus), 1 feet, pale green, February, hybrid. H. odorus, fragrant hellebore, 14 feet, greenish-yellow flowers with faint elderflower scent, March. H. orientalis, Lenten rose, 2 feet, variable flowers, purple, pink or almost black and often spotted with other shades, February to May. ‘Albion Otto is a white, purple-spotted cultivar. H. torquatus, feet, flowers purple inside and blue-purple outside, February to March, rather shy-flowering, leaves die down in summer. H. viridis. green hellebore, 1-14 feet, pale green flowers, February.

Cultivation A well-drained, rich soil is best and although a shaded position is usually recommended, this is not essential, although partial shade is preferable to full sun. Once established, the plants like to be left undisturbed, although they quickly settle down if they are moved in winter with plenty of soil round their roots. In December, protect the flowers of the Christmas rose by a cloche or by mulching with peat to prevent the short-stemmed flowers from being splashed by soil. Plant in October or November, or March, 15 inches apart in groups, preparing the site well and incorporating some manure.

Plants can be forced in pots by lifting and potting up in October and maintaining a temperature of 40-50°F (4-10°C). Replant out of doors in April.

Propagate from seed or by division of roots after flowering.

How to grow Helleborus

Helleborus (hel-le-bor-us)

Whether you’re playing with a Slip ’N Slide, filling the ultimate water balloon, or growing a calla lily, the amount of water you use is pretty darn important.

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It can mean the difference between a smooth, lubricated slide or a painful belly flop on a plastic tarp. It can determine whether the balloon pops on impact or bounces off your target.

And the dosage of agua applied can either keep a calla lily looking sharp, or leave it a bit dilapidated.

Believe me, it’s definitely worth the effort to keep calla lilies looking pretty.

With vibrantly colored and totally tubular flowers growing alongside lush, sword-like foliage, species of Zantedeschia are simply too gorgeous for suboptimal irrigation.

That’s why we’ve whipped up this little guide, to ensure that gardeners the world over can keep their calla lilies in peak form.

Here’s the gist of it:

Proper Calla Lily Watering

A Calla Lily Primer

With any plant we grow in the garden, it’s important to understand the conditions that would typically help it to thrive in its native environment.

That way, we can try our best to provide them in our own landscapes. Our guide to growing calla lilies can give you a refresher on how to cultivate these flowers in your garden.

Hailing from the swamps and marshes of southern Africa, wild Zantedeschia species can often be found growing next to bodies of water or in boggy areas – growing locations that usually exhibit some degree of moisture, whether merely damp or decently moist.

If you were able to ascertain based on this that these plants must love constant moisture, then you’d be absolutely right!

But don’t take this too far.

A calla lily that sits in oversaturated soil – whether from too much irrigation or not enough drainage – can become afflicted with root rot and other diseases, which may be fatal.

Too little water is just as problematic, but in a different way.

When a calla lily doesn’t receive the moisture that it needs, overall growth is compromised, the foliage can turn yellow or brown, and the entire specimen can take on a droopy wilt as its tissues lose turgor pressure.

In time, as symptoms worsen, plant death could easily occur.

When and How to Irrigate

Thankfully, proper irrigation timing and technique can help you avoid the above issues.

Let’s cut to the chase: for optimal health, Zantedeschia needs to sit in soil that’s kept constantly moist.

You’ll have to check the soil around your plantings regularly, especially in hot weather.

Ideally, the best time to check is in the morning so that, if the plant needs water, it can absorb the moisture before the day heats up.

Plus, this gives any splashed shoots time to dry before nightfall, which helps in preventing disease.

To check for moisture, simply stick a bare finger up to an inch deep into the soil.

Sense wetness? Then you should hold off on watering.

Feel nothing but dryness? Then it’s irrigation time!

With your trusty watering can or garden hose, directly water the root zone while doing your best to keep the foliage and flowers dry.

A few sprinkles here and there are often unavoidable, but if you’re giving your plants a full-on shower, then you’re doing it wrong.

For in-ground Zantedeschia, keep adding water until it ceases to percolate down into the soil profile as quickly, and definitely stop once H2O begins to collect at the soil’s surface.

If the soil drains well, this should be easy to discern. If not, then it’ll be harder to know whether the soil is actually saturated, or whether the water is just taking its sweet time to drain.

For container plantings, add water until it starts to trickle out the drainage holes at the bottom.

Factors to Keep in Mind

Of course, several different variables will affect how much and how often you irrigate.

Climate and Weather

A plant’s ambient environment definitely influences how much water it uses.

Hot, dry, windy, and sunny conditions will all increase a plant’s need, while cold, humid, windless, and shady conditions won’t strip away moisture as quickly.

Containers Versus In-Ground Plantings

As a general rule, plants grown in containers dry out faster, and will need more frequent irrigation than in-ground specimens.

Additionally, in-ground plantings often require more mobility to irrigate than container plantings do.

If you have a bad back, a tall pot could be just what the doctor ordered for reducing stress on your ailing lumbar spine.

Dormancy

Most species of Zantedeschia – save for the evergreen Z. aethiopica – will need to go through a wintertime dormancy period if they’re grown in-ground in USDA Hardiness Zones 8 to 11.

To induce winter dormancy in these plantings, you should cease irrigation in the fall once flowering stops. You can start to irrigate them again the following spring, after the last frost.

Growth Rate and Size

The more vigorously a plant grows and develops, the more transpiration occurs. And the more transpiration occurs, the more often water is needed.

Additionally, larger plants have larger tissues, which store, utilize, and subsequently lose larger amounts of water. They’ll need more than their smaller brethren.

Proper Irrigation: It’s Moist-Know Info

Watering well is an essential gardening skill, especially when calla lilies are involved.

Plus, the image of a gardener giving some calla lilies a hearty drink would make a great action shot for a scrapbook, lock screen, and/or dating profile – so get on that!

There may be some trial and error involved in the soil-checking process.

I personally tend to second-guess whether I’m feeling the coolness of moisture or a shadow has simply passed over the garden patch.

But don’t overthink it – if you need to, you can even pull out a soil moisture meter to back up your assessment.

Anything you feel like inquiring about or adding to the conversation can go in the comments section below!

Interested in more information about growing canna lilies in your landscape? Have a look-see at these here guides:

These large deciduous shrubs or small trees come in a number of shapes and sizes.

Upright or weeping. Tall and picturesque. Short and muscular. They come in a multitude of shapes and sizes.

Their delicate, often purple leaves turn some sort of brilliant shade of red, orange, or yellow in the fall.

Their characteristic gray bark creates a clear silhouette in the moonlight and is beautiful against snow in the winter, and their branching limbs offer balance to any design.

Japanese maples have the power to define your landscape.

Need one (or two, or three…) in your life? Here’s what we’ll discuss in the upcoming guide:

Before you run out to buy one (because you really should), here’s what you need to know.

Cultivation and History

Japanese maples have been a part of Japanese history for centuries. The first mention of them was as early as the 7th century, and by the 1700s they were being widely cultivated.

Over the centuries, they have been bred and refined into hundreds of beautiful cultivars.

From Japan, they gradually spread across the globe, reaching the West in the 1820s.

When we talk about Japanese maples, we aren’t referring to just one species, but nearly two dozen Acer species that are native to Japan.

A. palmatum, A. japonicum, and A. shirasawanum are the most common, but you’ll also see A. micranthum, A. tschonoskii, A. rufinerve, and A. argutum, among others being sold under the name Japanese maple.

Most cultivars are cold hardy to around 20°F, or suited to growing in USDA Hardiness Zones 5 through 9.

Naturally, these small trees grow in the understory of woodlands, where sunlight is dappled. So, a location in partial shade is fitting.

Propagation

Japanese maples can range from cheap to extraordinarily expensive at the store, which is why it can be a good project to propagate them yourself at home.

Plus, if you have a tree that does particularly well in your or a neighbor’s yard, you can take a cutting and have another that you already know does well in your area!

From Seed

You can grow Japanese maple from seed, but keep in mind that your new tree won’t grow true to type. That means that it might not have the same deeply-lobed leaves as the parent tree, or the color won’t be as striking.

Japanese maples flower in the spring, with tiny little blossoms.

Over the summer, the blossoms turn into the little “helicopters” (also known as samaras) we all knew and loved as kids.

These seed pods have little “wings” attached to the seed itself, and they spin like the blades of a helicopter as they fall from the tree to the ground in the late summer or fall.

Once you see the seed pods starting to fall off the tree, it’s time to collect them. Act fast, because once the pods start falling, the whole tree will drop its seeds within a matter of days.

Of course, you can pick the pods up from the ground, if you desire, but pods picked fresh from the tree seem to germinate best.

You can always plant the seeds directly in the ground after they fall from the tree, but this can be a bit hit or miss. It’s best to harvest the seeds, test their viability, and then cold stratify them in seed trays.

To harvest the seeds, break the “wings” off the pods and place the seeds in a bowl of room temperature water for 24 hours.

Then, collect all the seeds that have dropped to the bottom of the container. The ones that float aren’t viable.

If you live in Zones 4 to 7, plant them in containers to start. Fill a seeding flat with a seed-starting medium to three quarters of an inch from the top and place the seeds four inches apart.

Cover with a quarter of an inch of soil and lay a piece of mesh screen or hardware cloth over the top. Now, place the flat outside in the cold in a partially shaded area for the entire winter.

This is a natural way to cold stratify the seeds. Keep the soil moist but not wet until germination. In the spring, you’ll start to see tiny green sprouts emerging. Remove the hardware cloth and place the flat in a shaded area.

For those in Zones 8 and 9, you’ll have to do the stratification work artificially. Place the soaked seeds in a bag filled with moist sand. Force the air out and seal the bag. Then, place it in the refrigerator for three months. Check every few weeks to make sure the sand is still moist.

In the early spring, place the artificially cold stratified seeds four inches apart in a flat filled with a seed-starting medium. Something with equal parts compost and coco coir is ideal.

Place it in a window with bright, indirect sunlight for at least four hours a day, and keep the medium moist.

With either method, once the seedlings emerge and have grown one set of true leaves, you can transplant them into their permanent spot as described below.

Before transplanting outdoors from indoors, be sure to harden the new seedlings off by putting them outside in a protected area for an hour. After that, bring them back inside.

The next day, take them outside for two hours. Add an hour each day until the plants can stay outside for a full eight hours.

Find more tips on propagating from seed here.

From Cuttings

Not all maples root well from cuttings, but many do, so it’s worth a try. In the spring, take softwood cuttings (rather than hardwood ones) using a clean pair of clippers.

Hardwood is the wood that has turned brown and hardened, while softwood is generally green or red, depending on the tree, and is malleable.

Snip the tip of a branch so that you have about five inches of soft tissue and at least two leaf nodes (the spot where the leaves emerge from the branch). Make the cut at a 45-degree angle and remove any leaves from the lower half.

Firm the medium around the base and water to settle the soil. Put a chopstick on either side of each cutting so that it extends an inch or two above the cutting, and cover the container with clear plastic like a gallon-size bag.

Check the cuttings daily to make sure the rooting medium stays moist but not wet. After four weeks, give the cuttings a gentle tug. They should resist.

At that point, they’ve developed roots and you can replant them after a period of hardening off, as described above in the section on propagating seeds.

From Seedlings/Transplanting

Planting transplants all starts with the hole you dig.

Make sure it’s big enough – usually twice as wide as the root ball, and just deep enough that the top of the root ball is flush with or just above the soil line once it’s watered in.

A little too high is okay. Too deep, and you may have some problems.

If the roots are bound up, go ahead and make a few cuts with your pruners or a knife to free some of them up.

Backfill the hole well, adding some compost if desired. Make sure to tamp the soil down to get it to settle.

Also, don’t forget to check that the trunk is straight, and if the plant is grafted, make sure the graft joint is positioned above the soil.

Temporary staking may be a good idea if your tree is especially tall at the time of planting, or if you experience frequent high winds. Bare root plants should also be staked for the first growing season.

How to Grow

Before even thinking about planting a Japanese maple in your yard, let’s see if they’re a good fit for your location.

While partial shade is ideal, full sun is great too if you live in a northern zone where summer temperatures aren’t as intense.

But if it gets really hot in your area, some shade is highly recommended. Otherwise, young leaves may burn and scald.

Variegated types are most vulnerable to leaf scorch. While it likely won’t kill the tree, it’s definitely unsightly.

As a bonus, these beauties can even tolerate full shade – just know that the leaf color may not be what you expect and fall brilliance may suffer as well.

Your tree might also become leggy and lanky, or grow at an angle. For instance, this dwarf tree in the picture below only receives about an hour of sunlight a day.

As a result, it has stretched up to reach the sunshine over the 15 years it has been growing in that spot.

The soil type can be almost anything – clay, loam, sand – but it has to be well draining. Water-logged soil is a sure way to kill almost any Japanese maple.

It’s also best if the soil is slightly acidic, with a pH between 5.5. and 6.5.

If planted in clay soil, make sure it’s on higher ground to avoid standing water.

Dwarf varieties typically max out between six and eight feet, while taller ones can reach over 40 feet, so take size into account when planting. Knowing how much space you have to grow your plant will determine which varieties are a possible fit.

An area with a width of at least five feet is a good starting point for a dwarf tree to spread out. You’ll need to increase the size of the planned footprint accordingly if you end up choosing a larger tree.

Read the information card that comes with the plant to get an idea of its mature size, or be sure to do your research before you shop.

If you’re okay with pruning a little heavier every year, you can likely maintain your tree at a certain size. But if low maintenance is your golden ticket, pick a cultivar with a natural growth habit suitable for the space you have.

The majority of cultivars are considered slow growing, putting on less than one foot of new growth every year.

Hands down, the most vulnerable time for a tree is during the first few years after it has been transplanted. And it’s no different for Japanese maples.

While established trees can withstand dry spells, newly transplanted ones cannot. So, whatever you do, do not let your tree dry out in its first few years after being transplanted. After that, the first few inches of the soil can dry out in between watering.

Trees planted in full sun, especially in hotter climates, will need more water in general, even after they are established.

One of the (many) nice things about Japanese maples is that they are tolerant of black walnut trees (Juglans nigra).

Many plants will fail to thrive or die if planted near them because of the juglone chemical that black walnuts and their relatives put out. But maples can handle it.

You can also grow your maple in a container, just remember that you’ll need to be diligent about pruning to keep it in check.

Pick a dwarf cultivar, and consider using some sort of container irrigation system, since containers tend to dry out more quickly than the ground.

Remember that many Japanese maples are grafted. With a grafted plant, you need to watch for reversion (we’ll talk about this more in the section on pruning and maintenance below).

Mulching

A few inches of mulch will help to retain moisture, not to mention suppress weeds and regulate soil temperature.

Be sure not to mulch too close around the base of the trunk, which will smother it. Lay mulch very lightly closest to the trunk, and thicker as you move away from the trunk.

Japanese maples are typically early to leaf out in the spring, which is great for aesthetics. However, late spring frosts could kill off the fresh growth.

Trees planted in full sun are particularly susceptible to late spring frosts, as these areas will warm faster and encourage branches to leaf out earlier.

One way to delay leafing out is to add a thicker layer of mulch around the base of the tree, between three and four inches.

Again, avoid clumping mulch up against the trunk. It won’t be happy.

Fertilizing

Fertilization may not ever be necessary, and too much can contribute to problems like reversion, as described in more detail in the section below on pruning, and susceptibility to some diseases.

But if you notice your tree looking less than healthy, consider a soil test. We share more information about the steps you need to take at home to have your soil analyzed here.

In lieu of a soil test, the best option is to maintain a low level of fertility.

Since specimens are generally slow growing, too much fertilizer – especially nitrogen – can be particularly harmful.

Growing Tips

• Planting in partial shade is ideal, though trees are tolerant of full sun or full shade.
• Keep the soil moist for the first few years of the tree’s life.
• Add a few inches of mulch around the base of trees.
• Test your soil to determine if fertilizer is necessary.

Pruning and Maintenance

To prune, use a clean pair of clippers that has been wiped with a cloth dipped in one part bleach to ten parts water. This cleaning step helps to prevent the spread of disease.

In the middle of winter, before any new growth has emerged, head outside to do the majority of your pruning. That means shaping and removing any rubbing or crowded branches. If your tree is becoming overgrown, you can trim it back by up to a third, but not more.

If you’re shortening a branch, trim it back to the joint where two smaller stems emerge to give your cut a clean look.

If you are removing an entire branch, trim it back to the branch collar, which is the shoulder between the branch and the trunk.

You can remove diseased or dead branches at any time of year, but be careful not to do your major pruning in late winter or early spring. This can result in too much new growth before the last frost, which could kill your plant.

This tree in the photo below needs some serious pruning to get rid of the dead branches. When your tree looks like this, it’s fine to remove the dead wood at any time of year.

There is an exception to pruning with shears or clippers, and that’s if you see what is called plant reversion. This happens when a grafted plant has an errant cell and it tries to revert back to its parent form.

That’s because the cells that resulted in the beautiful mutation that was so appealing to the tree grower that they decided to graft it onto another tree are more prone to mutation than others.

This can also appear in the form of a shoot emerging from below the graft line.

Most common in variegated plants, it’s easy to spot these since you’ll see a branch full of solid leaves growing amidst the otherwise variegated foliage.

If you see leaves forming that appear to belong to a different type of Japanese maple, tear off the entire branch or stem – don’t cut it. That way, you’re more likely to rip out the errant cells, since pruning is likely to remove the branch beyond the point of the reversion.

For suckers emerging out of the soil, be diligent about snipping these as close to the soil as possible, and be ready for them to return.

If you don’t catch these quickly, they could spread and your entire tree will revert.

For more tips, read our Japanese maple tree pruning guide here.

Varieties and Cultivars to Select

In general, there are two main forms of Japanese maples:

They’re either a more compact, large shrub with lacy leaves that tend to branch lower and even become weeping, or they’re more upright, with a vase-like structure and tree form.

From there, you can usually find varieties with different leaf colors, usually purple, red, or green during the summer, and some amazing shade of red, orange, or yellow during the fall. There are also trees with variegated foliage.

To make things nice and organized, the Maple Society officially classifies Japanese Maples into 17 groups. If you want to know more, we have an entire guide to make things clear.

Remember, there are hundreds of maples to choose from, so you’ll need to use a few steps to narrow your selection down.

Cold hardiness is cultivar specific, so make sure you know your growing zone.

Also, if you plan to grow your Japanese maple in a container, choose a variety that’s hardy to two zones north of your area. Or, be prepared to provide winter protection.

Decide exactly where you want it, and determine that it’s a good location per the recommendations above beforehand.

Full Moon 

A. japonicum ‘Aconitifolium,’ aka ‘Full Moon Maple,’ is prized for its almost fern-shaped leaves, which have between seven to 11 deeply-cut lobes.

While it has a lovely deep red color during the summer, in the fall the foliage becomes a brilliant scarlet with splashes of orange and purple.

It only grows to about 10 feet tall and wide when mature, so it’s ideal for smaller spots, and grows well in Zones 5 to 7.

’Aconitifolium’

You can find ’Aconitifolium’ available at Maple Ridge Nursery in a variety of container sizes.

Note that all A. japonicum trees are sometimes referred to as full moon maples, but there are numerous cultivars and varieties available.

Managing Pests and Disease

Let me preface this section by saying that I know this looks like a long list, which may lead you to think that Japanese maples have a ton of problems.

While they are susceptible to a lot of different pests and disease pathogens, they are generally healthy and you won’t often run across problems.

So, yes, there are a lot of issues to watch out for, but you shouldn’t encounter them too often.

Insects

Japanese maple pests can range from mildly annoying to devastating, plus they can spread disease. Here are the most likely culprits that you’ll come across.

Aphids

If there’s one pest out there that can prompt a barrage of foul language from my mouth, it’s aphids. Not because they’re so damaging, though they can be, but because they are so common.

Aphids aren’t likely to kill your Japanese maple, but they can cause the leaves to yellow, and they leave behind a sticky residue called honeydew that attracts sooty mold and ants.

To learn more about aphids and how to handle them, read our comprehensive guide.

Borers

A type of borer, known more specifically as Asian ambrosia beetles (Xylosandrus crassiusculus), are pests that you usually won’t see unless your tree is already weakened or dying. The borers attack stressed trees, making the situation worse.

The beetles bore into the trunk and branches, leaving behind frass that looks like sawdust. You might also notice holes in the branches and trunk.

Beyond the physical damage, the beetles carry ambrosia fungus, which may infect the interior of the tree. These holes also leave the tree open to other diseases.

Infested plants may have yellow or wilted leaves, dying branches, and stunted growth. Young trees may die.

To treat for these pests, remove infested branches where you can see holes. Burn or dispose of the wood in a sealed bag. Heavily infested trees may need to be removed.

It’s important to keep your tree healthy as a preventive measure so you won’t have to face this problem at all, because there isn’t a good home remedy for killing the beetles other than removing the wood that they’re living in.

Maple Scale

Cottony maple scale (Pulvinaria innumerabilis) is most common and damaging on silver and red maples, but they attack Japanese trees as well. Most noticeable in large numbers, you’ll see the adult females and their eggs lining the trunk and branches.

What do they look like?

These flat, oval, brown insects are covered in a cottony, waxy white substance that protects them. During the summer, you’ll also see cottony masses of tiny eggs, which burst open with hundreds of tiny nymphs that crawl out and attach to nearby leaves.

The leaves of heavily infested branches might turn brown or yellow before falling, and affected branches might die back if there is a large enough infestation, but that’s not common.

As with aphids, these insects secrete honeydew, a sticky substance that attracts sooty mold.

Beneficial insects like parasitoid wasps and ladybugs are key to keeping these insects under control naturally, which is why practicing good garden management that promotes the health of your entire little ecosystem is key.

That means avoiding broad-spectrum pesticides whenever possible.

Disease

As long as you provide the right environmental conditions, most Japanese maples are quite healthy. That doesn’t mean your trees won’t experience any diseases whatsoever, but serious infections aren’t terribly common.

That said, you’ll want to know what to look for so you can take quick action if a disease-causing pathogen sneaks in. Here are the most common issues:

Anthracnose

While anthracnose generally won’t kill a tree, it sure is an ugly disease. It’s caused in maples by the fungus Aureobasidium apocryptum.

When this fungus attacks, it causes tan splotches and spots on foliage along the margins and veins. Under ideal conditions, and when allowed to flourish unchecked, this disease can cause leaves to fall and may even defoliate a tree.

So what are ideal conditions?

Anthracnose likes it cool and wet, and it’s spread by water. Crowded trees and dense foliage combined with overhead watering, plus lots of debris on the ground surrounding the tree where the fungi can hang out and overwinter, is just perfect.

Generally, if you avoid these conditions your tree will be fine, even if it does contract the disease. You should, however, prune away any infected parts.

Powdery Mildew

Powdery mildew is extremely common in temperate climates, and while most people seem to be familiar with it on veggies in the garden, it can also attack shrubs and trees.

Check out our guide on how to spot and treat it using organic and homemade techniques.

Pseudomonas

This disease is caused by the airborne bacteria Pseudomonas syringae. It’s particularly prevalent during cool, wet weather, especially if you recently went through a dry, warm period. It gets into your tree through wounds on the bark or leaves.

In the late winter or early spring as the buds on your tree start to emerge, you’ll notice that affected buds have turned black and die off. You may also see branches or sections of bark turning black as well. You might also note leaf spotting, and the tips of branches may die.

The best way to avoid this bacterial disease is to reduce the chances that it can take hold. That means only pruning during dry weather when the wind is calm.

Remove and destroy any infected branches, and practice good pruning in the fall so that plants don’t suffer from winter injury.

Root Rot

Root rot is one of those diseases where by the time you spot symptoms, there’s already a lot of damage happening underground. Caused by water molds in the Phytophthora genus, it attacks the roots of plants, causing them to rot.

Above ground, you’ll generally see a tree that simply looks like it’s growing slowly or isn’t thriving. As the disease progresses, you might see dark brown cankers on the trunk that appear to be wet. They may or may not be oozing clear liquid.

Poor drainage is the main culprit here, but overwatering, or watering on the foliage or trunk, can also spread this disease.

Verticillium Wilt

If you spot blackening branches on your tree, there’s a strong chance it has vert. If you also see wilting and dying leaves, particularly if they start turning yellow and brown at the edges before falling, you can be pretty sure this is the problem.

If you cut open the wood, you’ll likely see dark streaks. All of this is caused by the Verticillium dahliae fungus, which lives in the soil (for up to 13 years!).

First things first, good drainage is absolutely key to avoiding and halting this disease. If you need to, improve your soil’s drainage. Then, cut back any dying branches to at least six inches beyond the visible symptoms.

Best Uses

Japanese maples are versatile additions to a garden because they come in so many sizes and shapes.

They can be used as garden focal points, small specimens, potted plants, or even as bonsai.

They can add texture and color to a shady spot, or provide shade in a corner of your yard.

Some add color to a winter landscape with their colorful bark, while others provide interest with their striking leaf shapes.

1. Blue Spice

A tangy citrus flavor gives you a boost, not the blues, but this distinctive upright basil, a hybrid cross of O. americanum and O. basilicum, has deep blue blooms that inspired its name.

Its velvety leaves have a flavor base of spicy anise with accents of both vanilla and lemon. They are tasty added to fruit sorbets and poultry marinades or minced fine and tossed with fruit salad.

You can also dry the leaves for potpourri or use stems or flower stalks in bouquets and arrangements.

The plants grow about 12 to 18 inches tall and about a foot wide, which is an appealing size for containers and window boxes. This variety is also more resistant to downy mildew than other basils.

If you plan to grow it more for the scent and ornamental value than the flavor of its leaves, make sure to place ‘Blue Spice’ near a patio, walkway, or outdoor kitchen so everyone can enjoy the aroma.

‘Blue Spice’

The fragrance is truly delightful. Maybe we should start calling this “Banish the Blues Spice basil” instead?

‘Blue Spice’ seeds are available in packets and in bulk from Eden Brothers.

2. Lemon

Would you like some lemon with that?

Most lemon basil seeds and plants available to home gardeners are simply labeled “lemon basil.”

You may see them classified as O. x citriodorum or O. basilicum.

Light green lemon basil stems sprout leaves that are smaller and more pointed than most sweet types you may already cook with.

They are popular in Indonesian cuisine and make a lemony complement to grilled fish or tuna salad. Or you can use them in place of sweet basil in most sauces, marinades, or confections.

The most distinctive trait of lemon basil is its high citral content.

This essential oil has an aroma much like a lighter, brighter lemon balm and it’s often used to infuse soaps, lotions, and lip balms with lemony goodness.

The leaves are also suitable for drying to use in tea and potpourri.

Lemon

Expect a mature height of 12 to 24 inches, with stalks of white blooms in late summer.

Open-pollinated seeds are available from High Mowing Organics.

3. Lime

Lime basil, O. americanum, is zesty but more subtle in flavor than its lemony relatives.

It is often called hoary basil with reference to the fine hairs that grow inside the calyces that hold its blooms.

Lime plants tend to be smaller than most O. basilicum types. They attain about a foot in height and spread just 10 inches or so.

Their lime scent is pervasive but pleasant, emitting from the stems, leaves, and clusters of dainty white or purple flowers.

You could simply sniff the aroma from the comfort of an Adirondack chair or a blanket spread on the lawn and go no further, but if you want to use lime basil for cooking or decorating, there are dozens of options available to you.

Macerated, the herb can replace lime zest or peel in simple syrup for limeade or cocktails like mojitos, for example. Dried, its essential oils complement many potpourri combinations.

Lime

Minced, it flavors cookies and sorbets or peps up sauces, salsa, or Caprese salads.

Remember that while it’s not as intense as lemon basil, the flavor is stronger than that of most sweet varieties, so adjust proportions accordingly in cooking.

Seeds are available from Burpee and Eden Brothers.

4. Limoncello

Maybe it’s time to expand upon basil’s reputation as an indispensable ingredient in savory Italian dishes and sauces.

Though this herb originated in India, Iran, and other parts of Asia, only reaching Italy and other parts of western Europe in the 1500s, it’s now considered synonymous with Italian flavor, especially in pizza and tomato sauce, not to mention pesto.

But it’s never been associated with the citrusy Italian liqueur known as limoncello… until now.

‘Limoncello’ would be a natural ingredient in many of the same dishes and drinks where home cooks and mixologists use limoncello, in fact.

The leaves could be simmered into a simple syrup for icy adult lemonades, for example, or macerated in spirits to add to Italian cakes or ice cream.

Or, you could enjoy the limoncello essence alcohol-free, using a chiffonade of fine shreds to garnish desserts or enliven fruit salad.

This extra-prolific variety matures quickly, reaching about 16 to 17 inches in height and spreading 12 to 13 inches in just 25 days, which is at least a couple of weeks faster than similar varieties.

‘Limoncello’

Its leaves are bright green and almost heart-shaped. They have a ribbed texture that makes them extra appealing in bouquets or for use as garnishes.

‘Limoncello’ is available in 50-seed packets or as part of a mix-and-match set of three live plants from Burpee.

5. Mrs. Burns’ Lemon

Skip the burn and feel the zing with this tangy, open-pollinated cultivar.

This basil has the traditional anise flavor of popular sweet varieties infused with sweet lemon essence.

It looks much like the typical basil plant you would score at the grocery store, too, with two-and-a-half-inch-long leaves of bright, tender green.

‘Mrs. Burns’ Lemon’ is handy in the kitchen for flavoring salads, dressings, and sauces, but use it more sparingly than other sweet basils since even its light lemon taste can overwhelm more delicate flavors.

As a fresh garnish or used in herb butter, this cultivar sings on grilled fish or seafood stews.

The plants take about 60 days to reach their full size of 20 to 24 inches tall and 12 to 24 inches across.

‘Mrs. Burns’ Lemon’

If you’re a devoted seed saver, consider ‘Mrs. Burns’ Lemon,’ since the seeds that follow the white, late-summer blooms will grow true with the same characteristics as the parent plant.

Find ‘Mrs. Burns’ Lemon’ in 100-seed packets from Park Seed via Amazon.

6. Pesto Perpetuo

Claiming this citrus basil cultivar will provide pesto ingredients into perpetuity involves a bit of poetic license, but it does come pretty dang close.

It’s a shrubby variegated plant with white-edged leaves, the naturally-occurring sport of Ocimum × citriodorum ‘Lesbos,’ a variety of Greek columnar basil.

It grows upright and takes from 30 to 60 days to attain about three feet in height and spreads about two feet. The overall effect is almost like a topiary, but that’s not the most amazing thing about ‘Pesto Perpetuo.’

Its claim to fame is its non-flowering growth habit. As you might recall, when basil blooms, the leaves tend to lose their flavor.

This patented variety doesn’t have that issue so you can harvest the foliage for pesto, sauces, marinades, and garnishes almost into perpetuity. Or until winter rolls around…

‘Pesto Perpetuo’

‘Pesto Perpetuo’ is available as part of a “mix and match” set of three live plants from Burpee.

7. Sweet Dani

Watch out, Neil Diamond! Ocimum × citriodorum ‘Sweet Dani’ can also make you swear the good times never seemed so good – or perhaps more precisely, good foods never seemed so lemony without using citrus fruits.

This is a small-leaf variety with extra citral for lots of lemon flavor.

Growing about 26 inches tall and reaching out to 12 inches, it’s an ideal size for containers.

This cultivar was a hit when it was first introduced in the 1980s, thanks to both its heightened essential oil content and its extra disease resistance. It has been growing strong ever since, winning All-America Selection honors in 1998.

Consider planting it in a pollinator garden – the small white flowers attract bees and other flying pollinators. Or, you can pinch it back several times over the season to discourage blooming and make the plant bushier.

Plan to use the copious harvest fresh in lemon cookies, sorbet, and the like, or for grilling marinades or lemon chicken stir fry.

‘Sweet Dani’

The leaves dry readily and hold their lemon scent in potpourri, sachets, and scented homemade soaps or lotions.

‘Sweet Dani’ is available in 100-, 1,000- and 5,000-seed packets from True Leaf Market.

Get the scoop on growing and caring for ‘Sweet Dani’ in our guide.

The Sweet-Tarts of the Herb Garden

I have one more nice thing to say, and it applies to all of these recommended varieties:

Basil is such a valuable herb that’s easy to grow to flavor homemade cuisine. But it is just as valuable to pollinators if you allow it to flower!

And at season’s end, any plants you didn’t pick or that froze can go into the compost to build soil for next year. Show me a bottled salad dressing that can do that!

Do you have any citrus basil praise, criticism, or questions? Be sure to add your input in the comments section below.

And if you’re up for learning more about growing and caring for basil, check out these guides next:

Our current design:

Philip comments:

“We had a front yard you could not see the road for the trees and weeds. The spiny vines were horrible. We fenced it in and put goats there for a season. Then pigs for a season. Took most all the trees for firewood. Now it is part chicken yard and part garden. All hand worked except for a walk behind tiller. We ate pork and goat meat. We still work around the big tree stumps. Now we eat eggs and vegetables. You have a good plan. Eventually those pigs will over power that fencing and t-posts. You might want to get a solar fence charger and run a hot wire.”

I was really hoping not to have to mess with a hot wire – I hope they stay put.

They really are good bush clearers.

On YouTube, Scott comments:

“Goats would be a better choice. Milk, cheese, yogurt and meat. They are the most eaten meat in the world. Goats also make better brush hogs than pigs.”

I replied:

“I’ve had goats – I’m done with them for now! They are so destructive. The worst thing about the goats was how they would find ways to get out, then would absolutely destroy my new trees and gardens. As for the dairy side of things, we keep cows for that. The pigs are just for meat. I don’t love them, though. They’re just useful for now.”

These pigs have been easy… so far. If they get out and mess with the gardens, I will shoot and eat them.

Gardening is primary, animals secondary. We already got rid of cats, dogs, squirrels, goats, ducks, and wandering chickens that decided to tear up garden beds. We didn’t kill all of those things, of course, except for the more delicious creatures.

Pigs better watch their tasty little backs.

As for the video itself, just building a pen was too boring, hence the interviews with a scientist and a pig. I’m rather happy with how it turned out, though I’ve lost 17 subscribers since it went live.

17 boring subscribers.

The t-post and cattle panel method seems to be a good way to have a semi-mobile pig pen that allows us to clear grass and plant useful crops through the food forest. The panels can be curved around trees and set up easily if the t-posts are placed appropriately. The seed mix we’re throwing contains a bunch of herbs, along with grains, various garden vegetables and whatever odds and ends of seeds we weren’t sure what to do with, so we chucked them in the canister. I enjoy the unpredictability of throwing a wide mix of seeds out and letting them run.

And speaking of running – I need to call it for today.  Today we’re working in the garden all day. It’s the 1st of March, and it’s past time to get things done.

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With papery petals and vibrant hues, poppy seeds are a charming wildflower to add to your garden. Depending on where you live, the best time of year to plant poppy seeds may vary! Here’s exactly when to plant poppy seeds for a lively display of flowers.

Poppy Seeds: When to Plant

Poppy seeds are one of many seeds that need to be exposed to cold temperatures to germinate. You can plant in either fall or early spring to ensure that they go through this cold phase before the season warms up.

Most types of poppies will self-sow, meaning they will spread their seeds on their own, and you will have them again next year in your garden. Poppies will go to seed in the fall, so you can mimic this by planting seeds in the fall.

However, if you missed your window in the fall or live in a very cold climate, early spring is also an acceptable time to sow poppy seeds. You can even spread them on top of the snow in your garden beds!

When to Plant Annual Poppy Seeds

Annual poppies like Papaver rhoeas (Flanders poppy) and Papaver somniferum (opium poppy) can be started in early spring in zones 3-7. Like the perennials, they do best when there is still a chance of frost in the air.

However, if you live in zones 8-10, you will want to plant them in the fall instead. This ensures they get the necessary cold they need to germinate.

If you want to get those big, large heads, such as on the opium poppy, you’ll want to sow the seeds in fall to early winter.

When to Plant Poppies Seeds Indoors

I highly advise against starting poppies indoors. Poppies prefer direct sowing and will resist being transplanted outside if you start them indoors. This is because they have a tap root and do not like their roots to be disturbed.

If you do start the seeds indoors, do so 4-6 weeks before the last frost. Aim to keep the soil temperature at 12°C.

When to Plant California Poppy Seeds

In California, the poppies will self-seed in the fall. You can do the same in your garden if you live in a similar, mild climate.

In colder climates, sow the seeds of California poppies in early spring.

Poppy Planting Tips

You can check out my full poppy guide for more growing tips, but here are some bonus tips for planting your poppy seeds.

• Sow the poppies on the surface of the soil. This is because they need lots of sunlight to germinate. Lightly step on the soil to ensure they don’t blow away.
• If you have a heavily mulched area, you may need to pull some of the mulch aside before spreading the seeds.
• Mix the poppy seeds with sand to help you see where you’re spreading them.
• Poppies may need thinning when growing. Focus just on the clumps.

Frequently Asked Questions About Poppy Seeds

More Posts About Planting Poppies

Do bulbs need fertiliser? If so, when?

If the choice of bulbs has been adapted to the local conditions, no fertiliser is necessary, in principle. However, if you want to be absolutely sure that they bloom next season, some fertiliser (preferable organic) could be given, immediately after bloom time.

Could you trim off the ugly leaves after bloom time?

No, never. Through these leaves the bulb collects new, essential nutrients for the next season.

When is the best time to plant bulbs?

Spring bulbs are planted in fall, between the end of September and mid-November (for the Northern Hemisphere). Summer bulbs are planted late in spring, between the end of April and the end of May. The ‘Catalog’ section on TulipWorld.com can divide bulbs by their flowering season to make this selection easier.

Can bulbs be planted in containers as well?

Yes, most bulbs are doing very well in pots provided there is good drainage and the containers are large enough. They should be at least 10 inches wide and 10 inches high. Plant about twice as many bulbs in a pot as is recommended.

How many bulbs do you plant on 1 m²?

This depends on the intended effect and the species used. For a natural looking result you need 15-20 tulips, 20-30 daffodils, 75 crocuses and 50 Anemone blanda. If you look for color effect: 60-80 tulips, 60-100 daffodils, 150 crocuses and 150 Anemone blanda. TulipWorld.com feels to make an impact there are minimum numbers that should be planted and that number is listed with each bulb. If you naturalize, divide by two! Potting the bulbs, multiply by two.

Are there any bulbs that like shade?

Yes, for example: Chionodoxa, Puschkinia, Erythronium, Fritillaria meleagris, Hyacinthoides, Arum, Allium ursinum. Select shade conditions under the TulipWorld.com ‘Bulb Finder’ wizard for a full selection of what is available.

How deep do you plant bulbs?

You plant bulbs on a depth of 2 to 3 times the height of the bulb. This is done to prevent drying out and freezing.

Do bulbs need care after planting?

It is important that bulbs grow roots as soon as possible to be able to stand frost and cold. When it has not rained in the first week after planting, the bulbs should be watered.

Can bulbs be planted in the lawn and if so, which ones are suitable?

For planting in lawns you need bulbs that bloom early in spring like Crocus, Scilla, Puschkinia, Galanthus, Erythronium, Anemone and Chionodoxa. After blooming they need time to let their leaves die off naturally. Only then can the lawn be mowed again.

Which bulbs are suitable for naturalizing?

Allium flavum, Allium ursinum, Chionodoxa (all species), Corydalis (all species), Crocus tommasinianus, Hyacinthoides non-scripta, Scilla (all species). All these increase easily as well. There is a “naturalizing icon” on each bulb page to let you know which ones are better adapted at this.

Architecture firm Worrell Yeung calls this portion of their arresting upstate New York project a “spa shed”—and while it’s true the outbuilding is smaller than both the main home and the art studio on the bucolic property, it’s decidedly no shed. What it is is an expert study in abstract minimalism and a beautiful spot to meditate and unwind.

The building, with its half gabled roof and clean lines, references the other buildings, which in turn, took inspiration from its rural landscape (the main building was originally a converted dairy barn). Included in the luxe wellness shed is an outdoor shower, hot tub, and sauna.

Let’s do some ogling, shall we?

Photography by Naho Kubota, courtesy of Worrell Yeung.

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Today we’re in Brewster, New York, visiting Dede Lifgren’s beautiful sunroom. We’ve visited Dede’s outdoor garden before (An Artist’s Garden), but here is what is happening inside.

Several years ago we enclosed part of our porch to make a sunroom. We overwinter our favorite tropical and tender perennials there and now get to enjoy them all winter long!

Even the goldfish come inside to keep warm for the winter. The large aquarium helps to add moisture to the room.

Both succulents (Euphorbia trigona, Zones 10–12) and fern (Nephrolepis exaltata, Zones 10–12) share sunroom space side by side.

Lots of green and sun are especially welcomed after a few months of winter!

Warm sunshine is streaming in from the cold outdoors.

This is our giant, HEAVY jade plant (Crassula ovata, Zones 10–12). It’s a favorite because of its size—though sometimes we wish it didn’t grow quite so well!

Asparagus fern (Asparagus setaceus, Zones 9–12)

A giant leopard plant (Farfugium japonicum, Zones 7–10), a tree philodendron (Philodendron bipinnatifidum, Zones 10–12), and some artwork share a corner.

I pinned this begonia up on a moss stake to save space. Even though temperatures are kept cool in the sunroom, it seems content.

Our dogs enjoy the sunroom’s sunny location and the water that’s always available in the aquarium! The goldfish don’t seem to mind.

 

Have a garden you’d like to share?

Have photos to share? We’d love to see your garden, a particular collection of plants you love, or a wonderful garden you had the chance to visit!

To submit, send 5-10 photos to [email protected] along with some information about the plants in the pictures and where you took the photos. We’d love to hear where you are located, how long you’ve been gardening, successes you are proud of, failures you learned from, hopes for the future, favorite plants, or funny stories from your garden.

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Flowering Quince

In early spring, before they leaf out, the branches of this shrub are covered in beautiful small flowers – quite an early spring show and welcome food for hummingbirds and butterflies! Flowering Quince plants are hardy and easy-going plants and, once established, are quite drought tolerant. Flowers can be coral, scarlet, pink, or white.

• Full sun to part shade (the more sun, the better the blooms)

• Average, well-drained soil

• 3-10’ tall and wide, depending on variety

• Blooms February-March

Cucurbita pepo

While I didn’t become a committed vegetable gardener myself until my late 20s, my introduction to the joys of growing one’s own food came a decade earlier in the form of a brown grocery bag of delectable crookneck squash.

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In my small hometown of Williamsburg, Virginia, only a few families tended giant vegetable beds. My own family only went so far as to plant a lone parsley or tomato plant now and again.

But my friend Teri’s dad, Tilman Sandy, hailed from agrarian Appalachia and had a massive plot of veggies right next to his suburban lawn.

One summer morning, Teri and I were setting off on a weekend trip to my family’s beach bungalow, and she showed up with a sack of four-inch, bumpy-skinned, bright yellow crookneck squash, fresh from the garden. And a stick of margarine!

We feasted on nutty, tender, steamed squash slathered with melted “butter” that whole weekend – my introduction to being sustained by the food you grow yourself.

Nowadays, I plant at least four types of summer squash each year. I always plant at least a couple of crookneck squash, and not just for nostalgia.

The prolific bush-type plants produce some of the most tender summer fruits known to man. And they truly taste like summer, too.

The yellow color also complements red tomatoes in summer gratins or side dishes, and the bulge at the bottom lends itself to stuffing.

Best of all, crookneck squash grows quickly and produces mightily.

If you haven’t grown this type, or you haven’t in a while, I’d like to be the one to introduce you to the joys of planting, picking, and eating these lovely, curved yellow summer squash this season.

Here’s what I’ll cover:

Cultivation and History

Crookneck squash is both a modern favorite and an old-school choice for 21st-century gardeners.

I’m talking the wayback days, though, not just when your grandpa or the lady down the street grew it in the 1970s.

All types of squash we grow today can be traced back at least 12,000 years to seeds discovered in caves in Ecuador, where the plants grew wild.

Curcubita pepo is one of five species of squash domesticated in the ensuing millennia.

It’s a diverse species that includes acorn squash, straight neck, zucchini, and cocozelle, in addition to crookneck.

The crookneck type may have originated in New Jersey, grown by the Lenape people well ahead of European colonization.

Though they are also curvy types of squash, you shouldn’t mix up C. pepo crooknecks with their distant cousins, the “crooked neck” C. moschata varieties. These include cushaw and the vining tromboncino.

While those two are also delicious, it’s important to make the distinction because C. moschata growing habits and harvest schedules are slightly different from those of C. pepo.

Crookneck cultivars have been available to the home gardener for decades, with the ‘Early Summer’ variety appearing in seed catalogs in 1923.

Both hybrid selections and improved heirlooms offer increased disease resistance and better yields for the modern-day veggie gardener.

I’ll talk about a few of them in a minute. But first, let’s dive into how to sow and grow this delicious, prolific cucurbit.

Propagation

If you want to spend less than you would on starts from the nursery while gaining access to the greatest number of different varieties of crookneck squash, plan to grow them from seed.

Wait until all danger of frost has passed and nighttime temperatures are reliably above 55°F before sowing.

Cultivate the soil to a depth of at least 10 inches and amend it with plenty of composted organic matter.

Sow individual seeds an inch deep and 18 inches apart in rows two feet apart.

Tamp the soil over the seeds using a hoe or the heel of your hand, and water them thoroughly using the fine spray nozzle on your garden hose or with a watering can.

Keep the soil moist but not wet until they sprout in seven to 10 days.

You can also sow the seeds indoors about three weeks before planting them outside. This is a good idea for gardeners with a short growing season.

But if that’s not your situation, you risk disturbing the roots when you transplant, so I wouldn’t necessarily encourage indoor summer squash starts.

If you do opt to start seeds indoors, check out our guide for step-by-step instructions.

For crooknecks, plant the seedlings in biodegradable pots so you can slip them into their permanent home without uprooting them.

You may also be able to buy transplants. If you’re worried the season will conclude before you are able to harvest, spending a little more for transplants may make sense – if you can find them.

When you shop for crookneck starts in person, make sure to select those that are a healthy green color and free of spots or dead leaves that can indicate disease or problems with pests.

Avoid any that are already in bloom since they are more susceptible to transplant shock. Also, choose the kind sold in peat pots that go straight into the soil.

Once you’re home, water the starts thoroughly and let them drain completely before tipping any outer, non-biodegradable container on its side to ease the small crookneck squash plants out. Try to keep the root ball intact.

Ideally, you’ll only be removing the outer rim of plastic from a peat pot, which won’t hurt the roots. If the transplants came in plastic cells, be gentle when you take them out.

Transplant to an area of the garden where they will be spaced at 18 inches apart. Dig a hole for each deep enough so the plant will be at the same level it was in its pot.

Hold the seedling or transplant steady while you backfill with well-draining loam amended with plenty of organic matter, and water the transplants in.

How to Grow

If you’re systematic and consistent, growing a bumper crop of crookneck squash is fairly easy. Here’s how to proceed:

Location

Grow your squash plants in a garden or raised bed where they’ll receive full sun with protection from strong winds. This is a bush variety, so it won’t need a trellis or other supports.

To steer clear of soilborne pathogens that can live on in the dirt for a year or more, choose a location where you haven’t grown any cucurbits for a year or two. This includes melons, winter squash, and cucumbers, as well as other types of summer squash.

When possible, start amending the soil the autumn before a late spring planting.

Start by working grass clippings, dry leaves, and composted organic material into the top couple of inches of the soil where you’ll plant.

If you can get a head start the year before, consider enriching the soil with a winter cover crop or “green manure” too.

Our cover crop guide for home gardeners offers great advice on using this simple option to build rich soil for heavy feeders like crookneck squash.

Gardeners who are preparing the earth just ahead of planting will still want to amend with organic matter, but it will need to be aged already. Compost that hasn’t broken down completely, whether manure or vegetable matter, can burn roots with its high ammonia content, for example.

If I didn’t have time to amend the soil the previous autumn, I like to work an inch or two of something like Gardener’s Gold commercial compost into the garden bed.

It’s sold in bags and derived from plant matter like leaves and grass that have decomposed for at least two years.

This amendment improves soil structure, aeration, and water and nutrient absorption.

Gardener’s Gold Premium Compost

Gardens Alive! Gardener’s Gold premium bagged compost is available in 16-quart bags via Home Depot.

Whether you’re starting a season ahead or addressing soil health as you go, strive for soil with a pH that is slightly acidic to neutral. Crookneck squash prefers a pH range of 6.0 to 7.5.

You can use a kit to test the soil, but note that it will take several months to adjust the pH using additives like agricultural lime, because they break down slowly.

If the spot where you plan to plant doesn’t have a suitable pH, consider growing in a raised bed garden you can fill with potting soil.

Containers

If you’re opting to plant crookneck squash in containers, make sure to choose a pot that’s large enough.

Each of these bushy cucurbits will need its own pot that holds at least five gallons of growing mix. The container should also be at least 12 inches in diameter, though 16 is better.

Remember, that much soil can get pretty heavy, so plan to rest the pot on a stand with wheels on a level surface so you can roll it around as needed, or place it in its permanent location before it’s filled.

I like the idea of resting the heavy container on a kids’ wagon I can pull around to a new spot as needed once the season is underway.

This gives me options if I see my container crooknecks aren’t getting enough sun. It’s also handy if I want them closer to the water barrel during prolonged periods of hot and/or dry weather.

You’ll also want to choose a type of pot that retains moisture – plastic or metal, for example, not unglazed terra cotta.

It’s difficult enough to keep squash plants watered in summer without compensating for pots that dry out too quickly.

Water

When the seeds are germinating and while the seedlings are still a few weeks old, you’ll need to keep the soil they’re growing in damp but not wet.

Older plants require deep watering, so the roots won’t grow toward the surface seeking moisture.

Plan to measure your local rainfall and supplement as needed, so the plants receive about two inches per week in the summer months.

Always water at the soil line, not above the leaves, to avoid a buildup of moisture that can lead to fungal issues.

If you live in an area with hot summers, consider using soaker hoses or drip irrigation for your crookneck squash plants.

Mulch

These thirsty plants will appreciate a layer of straw or paper mulch applied to retain moisture once they have two sets of true leaves.

Be careful not to use commercial mulch that may contain herbicides or pesticides, which may harm plants and pollinators.

Apply a two-inch layer to retain moisture and suppress weeds, but leave a few inches of bare earth around the main stem.

If mulch makes contact with the plants, it can increase the risk of disease or pest infestation.

Fertilizer

If you amended the soil with plenty of composted manure or another type of soil builder, you probably won’t need to apply supplemental fertilizer.

Since container-grown plants will exhaust their nutrition more quickly, I do recommend feeding them once a month, starting once they’re about four weeks old and again at three-week intervals until they stop blooming.

A balanced liquid fertilizer diluted to about 50 percent of what’s recommended on the label is appropriate.

You may also want to fertilize in-ground plantings or crookneck squash grown in raised beds just once, when they first begin to bloom.

As I said, you can probably skip this step, but if you’re extra-ambitious about heavy yields, this strategy ups your odds of producing a bumper crop.

I like giving my blooming squash a boost with a mild, balanced fertilizer at bloom time.

Growing Tips

• Sow seeds or transplant starts when the air and soil are consistently warm, after all danger of frost has passed.
• Plant in full sun.
• Mulch when seedlings are a couple inches tall with two sets of true leaves.

Cultivars to Select

When you are browsing your local plant nursery or garden center, you’ll often see seed packets labelled “crookneck squash,“ without a cultivar name.

There is a bit of variety available among crookneck squash cultivars. Some have smooth skin and others have a textured, “warty” appearance.

You may want to grow an early variety if you live where the growing season is short or when, like me, you are planting in an area where hot, wet summers increase the odds of certain cucurbit diseases and insect pests.

Pay close attention to which seeds are hybrids since they may boast improved yields or disease resistance.

But note that saved hybrid seeds won’t grow true. I don’t recommend experimenting with untested results in the second season when such a high-yielding home garden crop is at stake.

Here are a few of the top crookneck squash varieties to consider:

Golden Goose

Jack’s giant, eat your heart out. ‘Golden Goose’ is a hybrid with high-yielding potential and beautiful fruits: smooth and dark yellow with a gooseneck-style curve at the tapered tops.

The plants are compact, reaching just 24 inches tall, which makes them ideal for containers.

‘Golden Goose’

They’re fairly fast, too, taking 40 to 50 days to reach maturity, so gardeners who are planting late or live in areas where the season is short may want to grow this variety.

‘Golden Goose’ is available in 20-seed packets from Burpee.

Golden Summer

Trying to capture the feel of carefree summer days? This heirloom crookneck is a good choice for nostalgic vegetable gardeners.

‘Golden Summer’ produces scads of tender, yellow fruits you can boil and serve dripping with butter or add to a luscious squash casserole made with a family recipe.

This vintage variety takes a little longer than the new hybrids to produce, but you can save seeds at the season’s end and plant them next year. Expect fruits in 60 to 90 days.

‘Golden Summer’

These summertime delights are best picked when they’re about six inches long, but feel free to let a few grow twice that long and form hard shells later in the season, particularly if you want to save the seeds.

Use the curved, darker yellow mature fruits for fall decoration.

‘Golden Summer’ crookneck seeds are available in organic or standard packets and in bulk from Eden Brothers.

Pic-N-Pic

This is one of the types of yellow squash that gives it a well-deserved reputation for being fast-growing and prolific.

In fact, I’d dare say this disease-resistant variety may be hardy enough to keep the whole neighborhood in squash, with plenty left over to stock the freezer and pickle, can, and dehydrate to your heart’s content.

A Burpee-bred hybrid, ‘Pic-N-Pic’ plants begin producing tender yellow fruits about 50 days after planting and can continue for months if the weather holds.

‘Pic-N-Pic’

The plants grow 24 to 30 inches tall and spread 36 to 48 inches across, which makes them compact enough to grow in large containers or small-space garden beds.

Harvest the fruits at four to six inches long for the best crisp texture and nutty flavor.

‘Pic-N-Pic’ is available in 65-seed packets from Burpee.

Managing Pests and Disease

While crookneck squash plants are fast-growing and tend to be prolific, they are by no means carefree where pests or diseases are concerned.

You can ordinarily avoid infestations and the ravages of disease with preventive measures. Here are the top foes to be aware of: 

Pests

The bugs that love summer squash almost as much as we do range from teeny-tiny aphids and spider mites to easily-spotted cucumber beetles and squash bugs.

Here’s the thing, though: Advice for preventing infestation or combating these undesirable visitors is not one size fits all because the threat level and timing varies in different growing areas.

I grow vegetables in East Tennessee, for example, where squash bugs and vine borers are the top enemies, but they don’t get established until hot weather arrives.

So for me, the best preventive measure is to plant and harvest ahead of their arrival.

Gardeners in cooler areas like New England may not have as much trouble with the bugs that thrive in warm temperatures, but may still have trouble with, say, cutworms.

It’s a good idea to consult your local agricultural extension service to find out what you’re up against in your area and then tailor your approach to avoid those pests.

Since zucchini and crookneck squash are both varieties of C. pepo, they tend to attract the same bugs.

You can learn more about preventing, detecting, and combating them in our guide to common zucchini pests.

Diseases

A range of common vegetable diseases can affect crookneck squash.

They are caused by pathogens that include fungi, bacteria, or water molds that may be soilborne. Sucking insects such as aphids and squash bugs carry some of them from plant to plant.

Two of the most serious ailments include cucumber mosaic virus, which stunts plants and deforms their fruits, and bacterial wilt, which is spread by cucumber beetles and can slay all of your full-grown plants in a matter of days.

As you might with insects, it’s a good idea to check with your local ag extension to find out what you’re most likely to encounter in your area, so you can work extra hard to eliminate the conditions those pathogens favor.

Verticillium rot, for example, gets established in cool weather, while downy mildew thrives in humidity.

Your ag extension agent may also have suggestions for disease-resistant strains that grow well in your area.

No matter your region, it’s always best to try to prevent the disease versus attempting to cope with one as symptoms appear.

Some of the best strategies are the same steps you would take to grow healthy, prolific plants.

For example, proper spacing combats fungi that proliferate in too-humid conditions, while crop rotation can help to eliminate soilborne diseases like verticillium wilt.

Also, only water at the soil line, not from above the leaves, to avoid introducing an overabundance of moisture that may not dry quickly, risking fungal growth on the foliage.

Learn more about 11 common summer squash diseases in our guide to preventing and treating disease in zucchini.

Harvesting and Storage

If you only draw one tip from this guide, let it be this: Pick crookneck squash when they’re young and tender.

You can harvest them when they’re just two inches long! But you should never let them get bigger than four to six inches long.

This is so important.

When they get any larger than that, the skin becomes brittle and the seeds in the rounded end become large, surrounded by stringy pulp.

Could you eat them? In a pinch, sure, but they won’t be the tender, nutty, silky-when-cooked produce you’ve worked so hard to grow.

And this is equally important: When you don’t pick the ripe fruits in a timely fashion, the plant will go into seed-producing mode instead of continuing to blossom and grow new fruits.

So it’s a win-win to pick yellow squash early and often.

Depending on your personality, you may need to set a cell phone reminder near the time when your plants should be reaching maturity and producing young fruit, or note it in your gardening journal.

You can find the anticipated number of days to maturity on your seed packet or in the seed catalog description.

Use a sharp, clean paring knife to cut the squash from the plant. If you try to twist it off with your hands (don’t ask me how I know this…), you might uproot the plant or damage the vine.

Handle the fruits carefully – it’s pretty easy to accidentally snap the narrow necks clean in two. If you do, just cook them immediately so the exposed surfaces don’t dry out or go moldy.

If you can, eat these tender, tasty veggies the same day you harvest them for a sublime flavor.

But if you aren’t able to prepare them that quickly, they’ll be okay on the counter for a day or two. Otherwise, store them in the fridge.

Be careful not to store squash in the same bag or area of the kitchen as any fruits or vegetables that produce ethylene, such as bananas, apples, tomatoes, or melons, which can make them develop brown spots and rot far more quickly.

Note that stored summer squash that are exposed to temperatures below 41°F may sustain chill damage which makes the texture mushy after they return to room temperature.

Standard food safety measures dictate that refrigerators should be set to 40°F or below, so again, using freshly harvested squash ASAP is preferable to refrigerated storage.

Freezing squash intentionally is still a good way to preserve it, but you’ll want to grate it first or blanch it in hot water, followed by a cool rinse before freezing.

We’ll discuss the many ways to preserve crooknecks to enjoy in the cold months next. Read on!

Preserving

I like to do my best to reassure gardeners growing a summer squash such as crookneck for the first time, but I will not go so far as to tell you that you’ll be able to salvage overly-mature fruits by preserving them.

It’s a common rookie mistake to wait too long to pick ripe squash, one which I hope you’ll avoid.

Those too-large, pithy, seedy squashes with the extra-large seeds won’t taste any better when you preserve them.

With that not-so-encouraging news out of the way, let me add that a properly harvested and preserved bounty from the squash garden can expand your homegrown food options well into the winter.

Start by making sure you pick the fruits when they’re still four to six inches long.

If they grow bigger than that, you may be able to cut the hard rind off and scoop out the seeds to yield a bit of flesh you can steam, stir fry, or boil, but that kind of pulp isn’t high-quality enough to try to save for the long term.

Instead, concentrate your efforts on the small, firm, and practically seedless squash you harvest.

My favorite way to stock up is by making squash pickles.

You can also dehydrate thin slices of crookneck squash that you sprinkle liberally with your choice of salt and other seasonings.

Use your oven on a low temperature or a dehydrator to let the slices dry out and get really crispy. Place them in an airtight container and store them somewhere cool and dark, like the pantry.

Try grating a bunch of the squash, use it as a substitute for zucchini in bread or muffins, and freeze those.

Starting to get the idea? There are lots of appealing options here!

Here are two more for you:

Consider marinating fresh chunks in a store-bought or homemade vinaigrette and freeze the mixture to thaw and grill or roast later.

Or, make a batch of summer vegetable soup featuring plenty of these tasty cucurbits, and freeze portions in the size your family is most likely to use throughout the coming winter.

Recipes and Cooking Ideas

Crookneck squash is a core ingredient for summer side dishes and an inspiration to create new appetizers, salads, and even casseroles.

It has such high yields that you’ll have plenty for both the basics and some experimentation.

You can enjoy the young, delicate fruits cut into rounds or matchsticks and added to a platter of crudites. Just be sure to wash them and let them air dry on a clean dish towel ahead of serving.

Baba ghanoush hummus complements the mild, nutty flavor of raw squash on a veggie tray. Find the recipe for this tasty eggplant and legume dip on our sister site, Foodal.

For a side dish, remove the stem end, slice, and steam pieces of crookneck squash or poach them in vegetable or chicken broth.

To make a base for a shrimp or chicken entree, stir fry rounds of crookneck squash in vegetable oil, or braise it in olive oil.

I like to add minced garlic and sliced green onions to either preparation, but you should add other veggies, sauces, or herbs to suit your taste, along with your protein of choice.

Or, try a casserole with crookneck squash as the main ingredient.

There are loads of appealing options, but do keep in mind that you can make this type of dish throughout the year, not just in the typical comfort food season of autumn.

Foodal offers a green bean and summer squash casserole recipe that’s handy for using up both types of extras from your veggie garden at season’s end. Check it out!

As for those appetizers I alluded to, consider deep- or air-frying rounds, chunks, or planks of this or any variety of homegrown summer squash.

Start by substituting yellow squash rounds for the zucchini in Foodal’s recipe for fried zucchini with citrus sauce, and then experiment with coatings, cooking methods, and dipping sauces until you’ve established your favorites.

Quick Reference Growing Guide

Plant Type:	Annual vetetable	Water Needs:	Moderate
Native to:	Mexico	Maintenance:	Moderate
Hardiness (USDA Zone):	3-10	Tolerance:	Heat, drought
Season:	Summer	Soil Type:	Organically rich loam
Exposure:	Full sun	Soil pH:	6.0-7.5
Time to Maturity:	40-60 days	Soil Drainage:	Well-draining
Spacing:	18 inches	Companion Planting:	Beans, borage, corn, dill, marigolds, nasturtiums, parsley, peppermint, spinach
Planting Depth:	1 inch (seeds), depth of the root ball (transplants)	Avoid Planting With:	Potatoes, other cucurbits
Height:	24-48 inches	Family:	Cucurbitaceae
Spread:	18-48 inches	Genus:	Cucurbita
Growth Rate:	Fast	Species:	pepo
Common Pests:	Aphids, cucumber beetles, cutworms, leafminers, spider mites, squash bugs, squash vine borers, thrips, whiteflies	Common Diseases:	Alternaria leaf blight, bacterial leaf spot, bacterial wilt, blossom end rot, cucumber mosaic virus, downy mildew, fusarium crown and foot rot, powdery mildew, septoria leaf spot, verticillium wilt, yellow mosaic virus

The Curvy Yellow Cucurbit

Whether you’d like to grow the old favorites you remember from childhood, or you’re looking for a reliable way to harvest a substantial amount of your own food, crookneck squash are ideal for the home garden.

Do you already grow these prolific vegetables? Drop a comment below and share your experience, or ask a question. We’ll do our best to get back to you ASAP!

And be sure to check out these summer squash guides next for more information:

It’s the last day of February and everything is waking up. We have mulberries growing on the mulberry trees, potatoes coming up in the garden, grass that is turning green again, and carpenter bees eating our outbuildings.

Spring has sprung, and there are no frosts in sight.

I admit: I thought we had more time than this. Normally we get one last frost near Easter, but it doesn’t seem to be the case this year.

Unless something freaky happens, it’s time to start planting tomatoes, corn, cucumbers, melons and all those warm-season crops.

What a weird winter! We had a devastatingly cold December, then a mostly mild winter after that – and now, there are new leaves growing everywhere!

Once I finish editing today’s video, I think we’ll have to spend some serious time in the garden.

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String of Watermelon, Senecio herreanus (Curio herreanus)

I couldn’t believe it—another “string of ______ ” plant? I was already familiar with string of pearls, string of dolphins, string of turtles, string of bananas—but string of watermelons? Well, apparently this exists, and I discovered it at my local Sprig garden store where I go to search out unique plant varieties. I knew that string of pearls was a low maintenance and easy to grow succulent, so I assumed this would be, too. And because I have a hard time resisting a unique, versatile plant with a cute common name (just be careful saying its Latin name out loud), I bought one.

Here’s what I learned about this multitasking trailing succulent:

Native to South Africa, string of watermelons is a fast growing succulent in the Asteraceae family. It sports dangling thin stems adorned with chubby leaves that have the purplish striations of a striped mini watermelon. In the spring, tiny white flowers emerge but really this isn’t why you are growing this plant. The main attraction is the notable cascading foliage that can reach more than 12 inches long.

You can plant this succulent outside in warmer regions void of frosts and freezes, in a container, or even as an unconventional ground cover. If you do plant it as a ground cover, the plant will root at the nodes and fill in rather quickly. Pro tip: This plant’s fragile stems make it vulnerable to roughhousing. Take caution when planting to avoid knocking the mini watermelons off, and plant in a spot not frequented by wagging dog tails or tromping feet.

If you are considering planting string of watermelons indoors, make sure to give your plant sufficient bright light about a foot from a sunny window. Pro tip: Less sun creates a greener look and more sun produces stronger striations. And because it is a succulent, make sure you use well-draining potting soil and a container with a drain hole to avoid root rot. Outdoors, this plant appreciates bright light or filtered light but definitely sheltered from harsh afternoon sun. This plant’s desire for shady spots makes it ideal for those who love succulents but have shady gardens. And definitely consider this plant and it’s trailing cousins your go-to spiller plant.

Cheat Sheet

• This plant’s easy nature makes it a perfect succulent for beginners.
• Use it as an unconventional ground cover outside where the stems will easily root and spread.
• Mildly toxic if ingested, so keep away from nibbly pets and curious kids.
• The relaxed habit is perfect planted in containers (either indoors or outdoors) where the stems can drape over.
• Perfect plant partners include Sansevieria and Sago palm.

Keep It Alive

• Hardy in USDA Zones 9-12.
• The best light is very bright and indirect.
• Use cactus/succulent soil mix to ensure fast drainage.
• Drought tolerant but make sure you completely saturate the soil then let it dry out again before giving it another drink of water.
• Sometimes this plant prunes itself when its stems accidentally break off from excess water or manhandling. You can also trim this plant to remove dead stems or to shorten its length.
• If planted indoors, watch for pesky mealy bugs and aphids.

For more on succulents, see:

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