Category: Home & Garden

In this article, you will learn how to grow and care for columbine.

What Are Columbine Flowers?

Sometimes called Granny’s bonnet or crowfoot, Aquilegia is native to the northeast regions of the United States and Canada.

In addition to these native species, there are introduced species from Europe that are also available to the home gardener, as well as sought-after hybrids that have been cultivated to offer enhancements such as a varied color palette, exceptional hardiness, and impressive heights.

Flowers offer a host of colors, including orange, pink, purple, red, white, yellow, and even green, with contrasting or matching centers. Sizes range from a petite six inches to almost three feet tall.

Often two-toned, the flowers perch atop delicate stems that rise from a cushion of fern-like foliage. Slender nectar-filled spurs attract bumblebees and hummingbirds.

In cool regions, Aquilegia grows well in full sun, however in warmer areas, it benefits from partial to full shade. Average to moist well-drained soil is best for this drought tolerant plant.

A. canadensis, also known as Eastern or wild red columbine, is a native plant commonly found in the cool shade of woodland regions.

Its characteristic downward-facing pendant blossoms of red or pink with yellow centers are well known to mountain hikers.

Another native you might know is A. caerulea. The Colorado blue variety is described in our article on 11 Native Blue Wildflowers for the Garden.

European Aquilegia has also made its way to the United States and is naturalized here. Common varieties include A. vulgaris and A. alpina.

Propagation

Columbine grows readily from seed. You can try dividing plants to make new ones, but the rootstock and foliage are very fragile and may not survive the process.

This is a short-lived perennial, and plants usually last for about three years. However, it is also self-sower, so if you allow the seedlings to take hold, you may have blossoms for years to come.

Keep in mind that while a native plant sows seeds identical to the parent plant, the seeds of a hybrid may or may not produce plants of equal quality, and the colors are likely to vary.

In addition, plants growing in close proximity to one another are likely to cross-pollinate, further altering the hues of offspring grown from seed, and possibly resulting in the dominance of one color over others.

How to Grow

Start seeds indoors in late winter, or wait until the last average frost date of spring has passed in your area and sow them directly into the garden.

Alternatively, you can sow seeds after the summer heat wanes, to allow plants to become established before the first frost.

Lightly moisten the potting medium if starting indoors.

Outdoors, work the soil down about six inches until it’s crumbly. Add sand or leaf mulch to improve drainage and loosen the soil as needed.

Sprinkle the seeds on the soil surface and gently press them into place. Do not cover them.

If you’ve started seeds indoors, set them in a cool place until the seed leaves, or cotyledons, appear.

Then you may move them into indirect sunlight. Be careful of placement on a windowsill, as the glass concentrates heat and may scorch tender sprouts.

Maintain even moisture, but do not over saturate.

When the first true leaves appear, gradually acclimate seedlings started indoors to garden conditions by setting them outside for an hour or so the first day, two the next, and so on, for three or four days total, before transplanting them to the garden.

When planting or transplanting outdoors, choose a location with full sun to part shade that has average soil and drains very well. If you want to know its pH and assess its quality, conduct a soil test.

Once in the garden, continue to provide the seedlings with even moisture, but do not over saturate the soil. As the weather warms up, be sure to water weekly in the absence of rain.

Growing Tips

• Chill seeds overnight to jump-start germination before sowing.
• Provide adequate drainage, as standing water in winter is likely to rot the perennial rootstock during dormancy.
• If you have a favorite variety, don’t plant it near other cultivars, as cross-pollination is likely.
• Space plants per seed packet instructions, to inhibit a buildup of humidity that may lead to fungal disease.

Best Uses

Aquilegia is a useful plant for beds and borders because it comes in a wide variety of colors, has a shallow root system, and grows in clumps.

A popular choice for cottage-style gardening, it performs well among both tall and short plants, as its foliage is sparse.

Aquilegia benefits from the shade cast by shrubbery or taller companions, and creates a delicate, wispy foreground display.

It’s also great in containers and for gardening in small spaces, where well-behaved plants are essential.

Good companions to plant with columbine are allium, daylily, foxglove, heuchera, iris, peony, phlox, and poppy.

Introducing Aquilegia to the landscape is an excellent way to attract beneficial pollinators, such as bumblebees, butterflies, and hummingbirds.

Maintenance

As described, consistent moisture is necessary during germination and the seedling stages. Once plants are well established in the garden, weekly watering in the absence of rain is recommended.

Plants are short lived, but will self-sow. Remember that hybrids produce seedlings that differ from parent plants, so if you don’t want a “potluck” variety of plants growing next to your prize specimens, be sure to weed them out.

Pot up the volunteer seedlings to give to friends, transplant them away from the parent plant, or dispose of them on the compost heap.

Weed the garden regularly to minimize competition for water. This is also a good way to discourage insect infestation.

Deadhead spent blossoms throughout the growing season, to encourage more to grow.

Clematis plants have been on a bit of a rollercoaster when it comes to their reputation. And these vines don’t love being transplanted.

In the Victorian era, they were associated with cleverness because they could twine themselves up any old surface with relative ease.

Later, they were seen as fickle, disease-ridden, and difficult to raise. Or, on the other end of the spectrum, invasive enough to warrant extreme control measures.

Today, they’re popular all over again because there are so many marvelous improved hybrids and cultivars.

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But they can still be tricky to care for without the necessary knowhow.

The first few times I attempted to move one of these to a new location many years ago, my vines took ages to re-establish themselves.

I know better now, and hopefully, you can learn from my mistakes so you won’t find yourself having a conversation with your stunted vines, begging them to explain what you can do to help them along.

The reason for their reluctance to move is that these plants take a good long time to establish their roots.

That’s why your vine often won’t start showing off with abundant flowers for several years after planting. It puts all its energy underground first.

When you move them, they won’t flower as well as they once did for several years. That’s just the cost of transplanting.

But there’s no reason why they can’t be as big and beautiful as they ever were. Here are the steps you need to make the big move:

If you have a vine that you really adore and you can’t move it, or you really don’t want to risk losing it, try propagating it via cuttings.

That way, if the vine dies after a move, or if it’s you that’s moved away, you still have a way to keep it.

When my grandma passed, I wanted to keep the clematis she had planted over a trellis that arched across the walkway entrance to her house.

I didn’t want to risk losing it when we moved it, so I took cuttings to be safe. Turns out, I didn’t need to, but it was nice having the peace of mind.

So, how can you move your plants the right way with minimum risk? Let’s talk transplanting:

When to Move Your Plant

Technically, you can move your clematis at any time of year. But if you want to reduce the chances of transplant shock, do it in the late winter or early spring before the buds start to emerge.

Second best is in the fall after the vine goes dormant, when the ground is still workable.

If you move the plant while it’s actively growing, cut it back by about half. This reduces the number of leaves and stems that the disturbed roots need to support.

Your clematis will likely be stunted for the rest of that season, but if you get enough of the roots, it should recover the following year.

Prep the Area

Before you even think about digging up your vine, you should prepare the new area first. This reduces the chance of transplant shock.

Dig as big of a hole as you can. Depending on how mature the plant is, the roots can be several feet deep and at least as wide as the dripline of the plant, but probably several inches wider.

So dig a hole that is at least as big as you estimate the roots you’re digging up will be.

If you want to go the extra mile, dig a little bit deeper and wider, and work some well-rotted compost into the native soil.

You can never go wrong with a little compost since it adds water retention to sandy soil and improves drainage in clay. It also adds nutrients. What’s not to love?

Dig Up the Plant

Now it’s time to do the real work. Do this on a day when the temperatures are cool. An overcast day that’s a bit chilly and not too windy is just right.

As much as I want to keep my fellow gardeners comfortable, it’s really for the plant. Wind and sun dry the roots out rapidly.

Make sure you can plant it right away. Don’t start digging on a day when you might be interrupted, and the plant will sit around. Oh, how many times have I made that mistake? It never turns out well.

If you didn’t prune back your clematis in the fall, trim it back a bit now. If you aren’t sure how to prune your particular type of clematis, check out our guide for some tips.

Now, dig a hole all the way around the drip line, or even a few inches out from the drip line, around the entire circumference of the plant. Dig down at least two feet, assuming that your vine is more than a year old.

You can’t dig too large of a margin, so err on the side of too deep and wide rather than the other way around. If you encounter roots larger than a pencil in diameter as you’re digging, you need to move several inches out and try again.

Once you’ve done the initial digging, shove that shovel under the roots and gently tilt the shovel back to lift and wedge the roots out of the soil. You might need to remove the shovel and re-insert it in a few different areas to really get it out.

Try not to be too aggressive. If you hear a bunch of roots ripping and popping, stop pulling and dig a bit wider and deeper, then try again. I know it’s annoying, but the more of the root structure you get, the happier your plant will be.

Eventually, the whole thing will pop out of the ground. Place it in a wheelbarrow or wagon or on a tarp and move it to the new location. Save your back for this next step.

Replanting

Before you transplant, take a look at the roots. You don’t need to knock away all the dirt and do a thorough check. But just give them a once over and see if they look okay.

If you see mushy or black roots, it means your plant probably has a little root rot going on. Remove as many of these roots as you can, and then dig the new hole even deeper to ensure good drainage, backfilling it with a mix of compost and native soil.

Put the plant in the ground and situate it so that it sits slightly lower than it did in its previous location. Fill in around the roots with soil. Water well and let the soil settle.

You’ll probably need to add a bit more soil to top it off. Add some mulch on top to protect the roots. Leaf or hardwood mulch works best.

Care

Throughout the following year, you don’t need to provide any extra care, but be extremely diligent to stick to the recommended care routine.

If you aren’t familiar with that, our guide to growing clematis has you covered.

Your vine won’t perform with its usual glory in the year or two following its big move. Don’t worry, it just needs some time. You didn’t do anything wrong.

Remember, clematis wants to establish a healthy root system before it goes about flowering abundantly.

Move Your Clematis to the Perfect Home

There’s no reason for you to have to deal with a plant that’s growing in the wrong location. Or, if your friend has a vine they want to get rid of, you can always give it a new home.

Clematis has a reputation for being a challenge to transplant, but don’t let that hold you back. It will return to its former glory in a snap, so long as you follow the steps outlined above.

Why are you moving your vine? Aiming for a better location? Taking one with you when you move? Let us know all about your situation in the comments.

Did this guide help you figure out how to move your plant? I hope so. Want to learn even more about clematis vines? Great! We have several guides that might catch your eye:

Indigofera spp.

A garden is already a living, breathing thing of beauty… but what if it could enlighten, as well as inspire?

If you put an indigo plant in your garden, then you’ll have a work of art and a piece of history on your hands.

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With dense blooms, gorgeous foliage, and a robust toughness, these plants are overflowing with reasons to integrate them into your landscape.

With remarkable versatility, they can excel in many different garden roles, giving you plenty of placement options.

Utilized for thousands of years to yield gorgeous blue dye, species of Indigofera have had a huge impact on humanity as a whole.

Think of the lively lectures you’ll be able to give your houseguests as they inspect your indigo plants!

With a bit of knowledge, you’ll be able to cultivate these plants in no time. Metaphorically speaking, at least – oh, if only plants could grow instantly…

Let’s get ready to rumble:

What Are Indigo Plants?

Technically, “indigo plants” could refer to any of the 750-plus species of trees, shrubs, herbaceous perennials, or annuals within the Indigofera genus.

Here, we’ll cover a handful of popular species that can be grown in the US: I. amblyantha, I. decora, I. heterantha, and I. kirilowii.

That should save you some indecision when deciding which one to grow, right?

The genus name Indigofera can be broken down into the Latin words “indigo” and “fera.”

The former alludes to the distinctive blue dye, while the latter means “to bear,” a reference to how the dye may be harvested from the leaves.

Part of the nitrogen-fixing Fabaceae or legume family, indigo plants collectively hail from eastern and southern Asia.

Typically reaching heights of one to six feet with spreads of three to six feet, they also spread via suckers, beautifully straddling the line between shrub and ground cover.

These plants flaunt pinnately compound, deciduous leaves that are four to eight inches in length, with each bearing seven to 21 leaflets.

These leaflets are ovate to elliptical in shape, and come in various verdant hues, such as blue or gray green, light green, dark green, or medium green.

Pink to rose to purple blooms emerge anywhere from May to September.

These are densely borne on narrow axillary racemes two to eight inches in length, and later give way to leguminous seed pods.

Cultivation and History

Many different species of Indigofera can produce vibrant indigo dye.

Within their foliage lies the organic compound indican which, when fermented, becomes the dye known as indigotin. It’s actually possible to harvest the dye yourself.

Other plants are capable of yielding indigo-colored dye, but Indigofera arguably does it best.

Within the genus, the dynamic duo of I. tinctoria and I. suffruticosa are the all-star players.

The former is native to Asia, the latter originates in Central and South America, and both left their mark on history as highly-valued crops.

Like that of tobacco and cotton, the history of indigo dye is vast and fascinating, and you could easily write a whole book on the subject. I’ll try and keep the recap relatively bite-sized.

Humanity’s use of indigo dye goes way back: archaeologists have discovered indigo-dyed fabrics in Peru from six millennia ago!

In the Old World, ancient evidence of indigo usage includes dyed Egyptian mummy bandages from circa 2400 BCE, as well as recovered seeds and indigo-dyed cloth from the Bronze Age Indus Valley Civilization, which lasted from about 3300 to 1300 BCE.

Whether acquired via trade or by harvesting what grew natively, indigo dye was valued and utilized in many ancient civilizations for dye-making, painting, cosmetics, medicines, and tattooing.

Though it had a long shelf life and didn’t take up much space, indigo dye was expensive to import, hence its nickname “blue gold.”

Due to said expense, Europeans tended to harvest locally-grown woad for blue dye rather than purchasing I. tinctoria-derived dye from India, which was considered a premium product.

The word “indigo” itself is a nod to this: it comes from the Greek indikon, meaning “from India.”

After Vasco da Gama sailed from Europe to India in the late 1400s, newly established trade routes by sea helped global commerce to skyrocket.

By the 1600s, Indian indigo cultivation was on the rise, and European colonies in the Americas were producing indigo of their own via plantation slave labor.

By that point, indigo dye had become much less expensive and more readily available in European markets.

Despite the woad industry’s efforts, I. tinctoria dye had essentially replaced woad dye in Europe by the end of the 17th century.

By 1897, industrial production of cheaper synthetic indigo dye had begun in Europe.

But dye from indigo plants is still valuable to home gardeners and anyone who wants to go au naturel with their dyeing. Plus, they look real pretty in the landscape!

Propagation

Blue dye and beauty? Historical significance and horticultural splendor? Sounds too good to be true, doesn’t it?

If you wish to acquire additional Indigofera specimens, your best avenues of attack are sowing seeds, taking semi-hardwood cuttings, or simply transplanting a nursery specimen.

From Seed

If the idea of genetic diversity excites you, then sowing seed is definitely the way to go. Who knows, you could even end up with a super cool mutation!

If that interests you, learn more about propagating Indigofera from seed in our guide. (coming soon!)

From Cuttings

In the summertime, take three- to six-inch cuttings from the ends of healthy shoots with a sterilized blade.

Take the lower half of each cutting, defoliate it, and dip it in a rooting hormone such as Bonide’s IBA rooting powder, available from Arbico Organics.

Bonide Bontone II Rooting Powder

For each cutting, fill a four-inch container with a 50:50 mix of peat moss and perlite.

Moisten the media and stick the cuttings in, de-leafed ends first. Place the containers near a sunny window where they can receive bright, indirect light.

Keep the rooting medium moist. If you want to check for rooting, give the cuttings a gentle tug to see if they resist.

For extra credit, give the containers a quarter turn each day to prevent lopsided growth.

Repot as needed, if the cuttings begin to outgrow their containers. Come springtime, the plants should be ready for hardening off, provided their roots are sufficiently strong.

On a pleasant day, leave the cuttings outside for a full 30 to 60 minutes before bringing them back inside.

Add an additional half to a full hour each following day, until the plants can remain outside full-time. At this point, you’ve got the green light for transplanting!

Transplanting

Prepare a moderately fertile, well-draining site with a pH of 7.0 to 8.0 for each transplant, spaced far enough apart to at least account for the plant’s anticipated mature spread.

Dig holes that are at least the width and depth of the transplant’s root system.

Lower the transplants in, backfill with soil, and thoroughly water them in. Keep the soil moist until the transplants become established.

How to Grow

These general recommendations should be applicable for most, if not all species of Indigofera mentioned above that are suitable for cultivation in the US.

But you may have to deviate a bit, depending on which one you’re growing.

Climate and Exposure Needs

An indigo plant needs to be situated in USDA Hardiness Zones 5 through 8, and exposed to full sun.

In especially warm or humid areas, a bit of afternoon shade can be helpful. If possible, provide shelter from harsh winds.

Harsh winters can damage branch tips, so be sure to play it safe if your plants are growing in Zone 5.

See if you can provide a warmer microclimate by situating your plants on southern-facing slopes or by the south sides of structures.

Soil Needs

For an indigo plant, well-drained soil with average fertility is just what the doctor ordered.

Ensure that the pH is somewhere between 7.0 and 8.0, neutral to slightly alkaline, and you’re golden.

Water and Fertilizer Needs

You’ll want to deeply irrigate the soil whenever the top inch feels dry.

Many established indigo plants possess some degree of drought tolerance, so don’t stress if you ever slack a bit on watering.

Additionally, make sure to apply some organic, all-purpose fertilizer each spring.

Osmocote Plus

For a 5-19-12 NPK granular fertilizer that’s chock-full of secondary and trace nutrients as well as the chief macronutrients, try Osmocote’s smart-release fertilizer, available in eight-pound bags from Amazon.

Growing Tips

• Provide full sun exposure.
• Ensure the soil is well-draining, with a pH of 7.0 to 8.0.
• Water whenever the top inch of soil feels dry.

Pruning and Maintenance

Indigo plants often behave like herbaceous perennials in Zones 5 or 6, in that they can die back to the ground in winter before reemerging in spring.

Keep up aesthetics and help foster new growth by cutting stems to the ground or trimming last year’s growth back to the first living node in late winter to early spring.

For plants that maintain living, aboveground shoots year-round in warmer climates, cutting back isn’t necessary. But it’s always a smart move to prune away any dead, dying, or diseased structures.

Add a few inches of a light mulch such as straw, wood shavings, or shredded leaves to help retain moisture, stabilize the soil temperature, and protect the plant from harsh winter conditions.

Come spring, remove the mulch so new shoots are free to emerge.

To prevent unwanted spread, clip suckers as soon as you happen to notice them.

Species to Select

Let’s take a closer look at what makes each of the species alluded to above so unique and special.

If any of them tickle your fancy, you’re sure to find them available from select nurseries, online vendors, or even at horticultural shows.

Chinese

Native to China and Japan, Chinese indigo flowers heavily with pink blooms, even in moderate shade.

Hardy in Zones 5 through 8, I. decora reaches a max height of two and a half feet with a width of four feet.

Notably, the dark green leaflets of this species are a bit more lance-shaped than those of the other plants on this list.

Plus, it can tolerate a higher pH! Cool cultivars include the white-flowering ‘Alba’ and rosy-bloomed ‘Rosea.’

Himalayan

Hailing from Afghanistan, Pakistan, and Tibet, I. heterantha wields gray-green to blue-green foliage alongside rosy purple blooms.

Hardy in Zones 5 to 7, this species is also tolerant of alkalinity, and can even handle clay soils. With a height and spread of four to six feet, this one’s a big boy, relatively speaking.

Kirilow

Native to China, Japan, and Korea, I. kirilow is tolerant of alkalinity and a variety of soils, and reaches a height and spread of two to three feet.

Hardy in Zones 5 to 8, this plant has bright green, football-shaped leaflets and rose colored blooms, and its golden fall color is just icing on the cake!

Pink-Flowered

A Chinese native, I. amblyantha lives up to its name with its rosy pink blooms beaming alongside gray-green, oval-shaped leaflets.

Hardy in Zones 6 through 8, this shrub reaches heights and widths of four to six feet, and grows in a notably rounded form.

While it lacks appreciable fall color, the flowers more than make up for it.

Managing Pests and Disease

Along with yielding fantastic dye, indigo plants bless us with their lack of serious pest and disease problems. You read that right: you don’t have to worry all that much about Indigofera health care!

“Don’t worry” doesn’t mean “don’t care,” though. You should still use sanitized tools, clean soils, and only work with disease-free specimens.

Those gardening habits will serve you well when you work with the rest of your plants too.

Best Uses

As shrubs that can also behave like ground covers, indigo plants are quite versatile.

Their shrubbiness is fantastic for use in masses, hedges, and borders, while their spreading tendencies allow them to beautifully perform on slopes, woodland floors, or anywhere else you want a small shrub to colonize.

But their flowers make them stand out anywhere they end up. And of course, you can always harvest them to try your hand at dyemaking!

Quick Reference Growing Guide

Plant Type:	Woody deciduous shrub (herbaceous perennial in some Zones)	Flower/Foliage Color:	Reddish-orange/grayish-greePink, rose, violet/green
Native to:	Eastern and southern Asia	Maintenance:	Low to moderate
Hardiness (USDA Zones):	5-8	Tolerance:	Alkaline soils, clay soils, drought, heat (varies depending on species)
Bloom Time:	May to September, depending on species	Soil Type:	Moderately fertile, moist
Exposure:	Full Sun	Soil pH:	7.0-8.0
Time to Maturity:	5-20 years	Soil Drainage:	Well-draining
Spacing:	Width of mature spread	Attracts:	Butterflies, bees, wasps
Planting Depth:	Depth of root system (transplants)	Uses:	Border, cottage garden, dyemaking, ground cover, grouping, hedge, mass planting, rock garden, slopes, specimen, woodland area
Height:	1-6 feet	Order:	Fabales
Spread:	3-6 feet	Family:	Fabaceae
Water Needs:	Moderate	Genus:	Indigofera
Common Diseases:	Root rot	Species:	Amblyantha, decora, heterantha, kirilowii, tinctoria

Don’t Forego Indigo!

There’s a plethora of garden plants out there, each one demanding immediate placement in your garden.

But as you browse and think over which to utilize next, don’t pass over the humble indigo plant.

I mean, how many plants are tough, stunning, dye-yielding, and stuffed to the gills with a rich, millenia-spanning history? Not enough, I say… this one’s a keeper, folks.

Questions, remarks, fun indigo factoids I may have missed? Put ’em all in the comments section below!

“Bean” yearning for some more leguminous guides? Check out these other members of the Fabaceae family:

Yesterday I posted a video on creating your own survival seed vault:

It’s really easy to save seeds long-term with just a refrigerator, some jars with rubber seals, and some silica gel packets.

Alternately, you can save seeds via growing your own in the garden.

We do both.

Start Your Own Survival Seed Vault (from the video description)

Seed to Seed by Suzanne Ashworth

Landrace Gardening by Joseph Lofthouse

Free Plants for Everyone by David The Good

COMPOST YOUR ENEMIES and CHAINSAW T-shirts

You’ve probably seen a survival seed collection for sale.

There are great big survival seed vault offers, with everything from sweet corn to beets, all packed in a way to make seeds last longer than you might expect.

However, you can save seeds in the fridge by putting them in mason jars with silica gel packets and they’ll keep for a REALLY long time. You can also save seeds from the garden if you know a few tips and tricks. By growing seeds in the garden, you can save varieties from year to year and never have to buy seeds again.

Or, take advantage of all the spring seed sales right now and get lots of seed packets, then store seed away in your very own mason jar survival seed supply.

We use a combination of both methods, storing seeds and growing seeds and saving seed from the garden.

You can too!

If supply chains go down, you’ll have all you need to grow a survival garden, Doomsday Prepper style! It’s not exactly the Svalbard seed vault, but it’s way better than what most people have.

Thanks for watching!

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Zamioculcas zamiifolia

ZZ plants are charming tropical perennials that have become increasingly popular as houseplants in recent years.

They are incredibly resilient, can do well in low light conditions with little water, and have been known to survive long periods of neglect. If you tend to struggle with keeping houseplants alive, this may be the one for you!

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Continue reading to learn all about growing Z. zamiifolia indoors.

Here’s the lineup:

What Are ZZ Plants?

Zamioculcas zamiifolia, also called Zanzibar gem, aroid palm, zuzu, or ZZ plant, is a tropical perennial with small, waxy, dark green leaves that grow along multiple fleshy stems.

Hardy in USDA Zones 9 and 10, they make fantastic indoor houseplants everywhere else. They can grow as tall as five feet, but typically only reach two or three feet indoors.

Every part of this plant stores water, from its bulbous underground rhizomes to its fleshy leaves, hence its high tolerance for drought and neglect.

When grown in their native habitat, ZZ plants produce small white spadices protected by green spathes near the base of the stalk that are often hidden by the leaves, similar to what you might see on a peace lily though they are less showy.

But flowering is not typical when these are grown as houseplants.

A Note of Caution:

Zamioculcas zamiifolia contains calcium oxalate crystals which are toxic to cats, dogs, and humans.

Always keep them out of reach of pets and children, and wash your hands after tending plants to avoid any potential skin irritation. It is always a good idea to wear gloves when handling Z. zamiifolia.

Cultivation and History

ZZ plants are native to rocky, arid regions of eastern Africa, from Kenya to northeastern South Africa.

They were originally documented as early as 1829 under the name Caladium zamiifolia, but did not become widespread as ornamentals until the 1990s, when Dutch-owned nurseries in South Africa began global commercial propagation and distribution.

Since they can survive without much care, water, or light, they have become popular in homes, and particularly in offices. You are likely to find these decorating side tables, or in dim corners of office waiting rooms.

Propagation

ZZ plants are easy, yet slow, to propagate. Rooting cuttings is the preferred method, though it is also possible to divide them if this is done infrequently and sparingly.

From Leaf Cuttings

The best way to start is by rooting leaf cuttings. You can start many at once by taking several of these from a mature stalk.

Plant newly cut leaves in light potting soil in a container with good drainage. Any standard potting mix should work. Water well and set in a location with bright, indirect light.

Continue to water every couple of weeks until rooting occurs, and note that this could take several months. Once the cuttings have rooted, you can repot them individually into larger containers to continue growing.

Read our detailed guide on starting ZZ plants from leaf cuttings for more information.

Division

It is possible to divide Z. zamiifolia, but many gardeners advise against it since the slow-growing rhizomes take a very long time to grow back to full size.

If you do choose to divide them, do so rarely, only once every few years or so.

Before dividing, refrain from watering for a couple of weeks. Then remove the plant from its container and carefully cut or separate a rhizome by hand that has both roots and stems growing from it.

Let wounded plants sit out for a few hours to callus over before replanting each section.

Plant divided rhizomes one inch below the soil line in a loose potting mix, and water thoroughly. Be sure to always choose containers with good drainage.

How to Grow

These seriously low-maintenance houseplants don’t need much in order to grow. By keeping just a couple of tips in mind, your Zanzibar gem should stay happy for a long time!

As I already mentioned, Z. zamiifolia can do just fine in low light conditions. They also grow well under fluorescent light, which explains why they do so well in offices.

To provide optimal conditions, it’s best to choose a location that receives bright, indirect light if you can. Always avoid direct sunlight, which could cause the leaves to scorch.

These tropical perennials grow best in temperatures between 60 and 75°F. Exposure to temperatures below 45°F will damage them.

They are also at their best in humid climates though they can tolerate dry air, so avoid placing them in dry areas such as near heat or air conditioning vents.

If the air in your home is especially dry, such as it often is in the winter when the heat is running, some gardeners recommend occasionally misting the foliage with water.

But keep in mind that these plants are prone to rot, so it’s important to avoid being overzealous with the water.

On that note, ZZ only needs to be watered every couple of weeks. The soil should feel dry several inches down between waterings, and the pot will feel lighter when the soil has dried out.

Since too much moisture can lead to root rot and this species can survive months of drought, again, it is better to err on the side of providing less water.

Fertilizer is not really necessary, but if you want to accelerate growth, you can use a diluted liquid organic houseplant fertilizer a couple of times during the growing season (spring through summer) just after watering.

Growing Tips

• Bright indirect light is best. Avoid direct sun.
• Water every couple of weeks, allowing soil to dry thoroughly between waterings.
• Mist foliage occasionally if the environment is dry.

Pruning and Maintenance

While regular maintenance is minimal, it certainly doesn’t hurt to prune every once in a while.

Sometimes, specimens placed in low-light conditions will develop leggy stems as they try to grow towards the light. It is also common for one stem to grow faster than the others, making the plant appear lopsided.

In these cases, you can remove any out-of-place stems to maintain your prefered shape.

You can cut stems back to the height of other stems or all the way down to the soil, whichever you prefer. It is also a good idea to rotate the plants occasionally to provide more balanced light.

Older foliage will eventually turn yellow and fall from the branch. While this is a natural part of the life cycle for this species, you can keep your plants looking fresh by removing old or dead leaves.

Though ZZ plants rarely fall prey to disease pathogens, if you do notice signs of rot such as soggy stems or leaves, be sure to remove affected parts as soon as you spot them.

When pruning, use sharp, clean scissors and make straight cuts. Always wear gloves or wash your hands after handling ZZ plants.

If a plant seems to be outgrowing its current container, it may also be a good time to repot.

Transfer your ZZ plant to a well-draining container one size up, add new potting medium, and water until it drains from the bottom before placing it back in its usual location.

Cultivars to Select

For the first 20 years of commercial sale, there was really only one type of ZZ plant available.

New cultivars are now being developed and becoming more common, but it may take a bit of work to track them down.

The classic ZZ plant with bright, glossy green leaves is easy to find and available for purchase at most nurseries.

ZZ Plant 6-Inch Container

You can also find plants online, such as this one in a six-inch container that’s available from Nature Hills Nursery.

Raven™, aka ‘Dowon,’ is a cultivar with leaves that emerge a bright green and deepen to a very dark green or black as they mature.

‘Raven’

You may be able to find these at your local nursery or you can purchase potted specimens online, such as this one from Costa Farms that’s available via Amazon in a 12-inch white planter.

You may also come across other more rare varieties such as ‘Zenzi,’ which is a compact cultivar that grows only around a foot tall. It has more tightly grouped leaflets that bunch up near the tops of each stem.

‘Zamicro’ is also more compact than the species plant, with flatter, smaller leaflets. ‘Dark Zamicro’ is similar, but it has leaves that emerge green and darken as they mature. These varieties won’t grow more than two feet tall.

Managing Pests and Disease

These resilient houseplants are very pest resistant, and rarely suffer from disease.

It is possible for aphids to damage foliage, especially if you put them outside during the summer. Though the aphids themselves are hard to see, you might notice yellow spotting on the leaves to indicate their presence.

You can remove them by wiping the leaves off with mild dish soap and water.

In terms of disease, the main issue to watch out for is root rot. Waterlogged soil encourages fungal growth, which can lead to rot in the roots and stems.

Signs of a problem include discolored leaves; weak, falling, or mushy stalks; and an unpleasant odor coming from the soil.

Caused primarily by overwatering, root rot can be prevented easily by planting in a well-draining container, and watering only when the soil is dry to the touch.

In the early stages of rot, you can remove the plant from its container and try repotting it in new soil.

Before replanting, examine the roots and cut off those that show signs of rotting. For the first few days after replanting, keep the soil lightly but evenly moist, then return to watering only when the soil is dry.

Quick Reference Growing Guide

Plant Type:	Tropical evergreen perennial	Flower/Foliage Color:	White (rare indoors)/dark green
Native to:	Eastern Africa	Maintenance:	Low
Hardiness (USDA Zone):	9-11 (outdoors)	Tolerance:	Drought, low light
Bloom Time:	Spring (rare for houseplants)	Soil Type:	Porous potting mix
Exposure:	Bright-low indirect light	Soil pH:	6.0-7.0
Time to Maturity:	3-5 years	Soil Drainage:	Well-draining
Planting Depth:	Depth of the root ball	Water Needs:	Low
Height:	3-5 feet	Family:	Araceae
Spread:	2 feet	Genus:	Zamioculcas
Common Pests and Disease:	Aphids; Root rot	Species:	Zamiifolia

An Almost Unkillable Plant

Whether you are a beginner gardener, have a low-light space that could use some color, or are simply too busy to devote a lot of time to houseplants, Zamioculcas zamiifolia will make a good fit.

This “unkillable” plant is attractive, unique, and sure to brighten up any corner!

Do you have experience growing ZZ plants? Share your tips in the comments below!

Want to learn more about growing tropical houseplants? Check out these articles next:

You’re hot, then you’re cold. You’re anxious, then you’re happy. Menopause comes with all sorts of (not-so) fun symptoms that can get in the way. You can use many herbs to help ease these symptoms, and tea is one of the best ways to enjoy them. Here are some of the best herbal teas for menopause!

This post will cover…

Benefits of Tea for Menopause

According to a survey, 51% of postmenopausal women reported that they were happiest and the most fulfilled when they were 50-65. It wasn’t their 20s, 30s, or even 40s that they felt the best. It was after menopause!

This is a time when we truly come into our own and embrace the woman we are meant to be. But unfortunately, there are a few not-so-nice side effects from going through menopause that we must go through first.

Menopausal symptoms can include mood swings, insomnia, hot flashes, aching muscles, fatigue, migraines, vaginal dryness, and PMS symptoms. These symptoms can last anywhere from a few months to several years.

Menopause is something all women must go through, so the best way to handle it is to try to mitigate the symptoms. Luckily, mother nature has provided us with plenty of amazing herbs to assist us on our menopausal journey.

6 Herbs that Make the Best Teas for Menopause

Making herbal tea is one of the easiest ways to enjoy the benefits of herbs, and it’s a relaxing way to start or end the day. Check out my instructions for making herbal tea first so you can get as many properties as possible from the herbs.

Many of these teas for menopause below aid with changing hormones, so pregnant women and prepubescent children should exert caution. Always check with your doctor before taking any of these herbs.

1. Hops

Humulus lupulus

You may know hops as the beery flower or a beautiful vine to have in the garden, but it’s also a useful herb for menopausal women.

Historically, it has been used to help with menstruation issues and women in menopause due to its estrogenic properties.

Also known as a sleep aid, it can help to calm nerves and improve sleep.

2. St. John’s Wort

Hypericum perforatum

St. John’s Wort is a cheery yellow flower with plenty of herbal properties.

Much like its uplifting appearance, it’s known as a mood booster to help with mood swings and anxiety. As a well-known nervine, it has shown to be extremely effective as an anti-depressant for those with menopausal symptoms.

3. Sage

Saliva Officinalis

Sage tastes delicious on a plate and is also one of the most powerful herbs for menopausal women. Among many other properties, it can help with anxiety, depression, night sweats, hot flashes, libido, vaginal dryness, and overall menopausal symptoms from hormone changes.

Sage is known to help with fluid regulation for women, drying up breast milk, slowing heavy menstrual bleeding, and relieving excessive discharge.

4. Asian Ginseng

Panax Ginseng

Ginseng is a stout, slow-growing plant with big fleshy roots, commonly used in Traditional Chinese Medicine. While there are a few types of the herb, Asian ginseng is best known for helping with menopause.

Asian ginseng can help to increase sex drive, improve mood and fatigue, and help with overall well-being for menopausal women. It also has anti-inflammatory properties and is beneficial in treating depression and mood disorders.

5. Lemon Balm

Melissa Officinalis

Out of all the teas for menopause on this list, lemon balm may have the most delicious flavour. Mildly lemony, it also has a strong lemon smell.

Lemon balm is known most as a cooling nervine, used even before the middle ages. It helps to relieve nervousness and promote relaxation, which can also help when you have trouble sleeping. The calming nature can also help with digestive issues due to anxiety and depression.

6. Valerian

Valerian Officinalis

This hardy perennial has small pink flowers and plenty of green foliage. You will see it listed in many nighttime teas, as its roots are known for promoting calmness.

Valerian has been used to help with menstrual cramps and mood swings for menopausal women. It can treat hot flashes, with 60% of menopausal women claiming it helped reduce the severity of hot flashes.  

Frequently Asked Questions About Teas for Menopause

More Ways to Enjoy Tea

Early spring is a great time to transplant shrubs and trees – the soil is moist, and the plants are gearing up for growth. Here’s a step-by-step on how to successfully transplant:

 

Determining the Size of the Root Ball

Determining the size of the root ball you’ll need for your transplant is important for:

 

1. Root pruning
2. Determining the size of the new hole you’ll need to dig
3. Digging the root ball for your transplant.

 

Root ball size is based on these recommendations from the American Association of Nurserymen: Measure the plant’s stem caliper (stem diameter six inches above the ground). The root ball to be transplanted should be 10 to 12 inches for each inch of stem caliper. For example, if the stem caliper is 3 inches, then the root ball should be 30 to 36 inches in diameter. For additional information, you can find a variety of charts for root ball sizes online from horticultural/university extension sites.

 

Root Pruning

Ideally, root pruning 1 or 2 seasons before you transplant will help net the best results. Root pruning is the process of slicing through the roots at the drip line of tree or shrub you plan on transplanting (use a sharp spade or shovel)to the depth of the root ball you plan on digging. This encourages the growth of new feeder roots along the root ball that will be transplanted along with the plant.

 

These feeder roots are responsible for absorbing most of the water and nutrients the plant needs. With the new feeder roots in a more concentrated area, they’ll be less likely to be disturbed when moved and root damage will be minimized. Root prune only after leaves have fallen from deciduous plants in fall or before bud break in the spring.

 

Begin root pruning by marking a circle the size of the desired root ball around the tree or shrub, then dig a trench just outside the circle. Carefully separate the topsoil and subsoil so that when you backfill the trench you will replace the subsoil layer first and topsoil on top. After backfilling, water the area to settle the disturbed soil, remove air pockets and provide adequate moisture for new root development.

 

New Site Assessment

Make sure your tree/shrub’s new location is optimized for its growth. Test the soil to ensure it has the correct pH for the type of plant you’re moving, that the drainage is suitable for the plant, and that the site has the appropriate amount of sun/shade needed.

 

Preparing for Transplanting

The first step is to dig the hole you’ll be moving your plant to. Be aware of any underground utility lines before you start digging by calling 811 – the Call Before You Dig number in the United States. You can make digging a little easier by moistening the soil the day before you start (you don’t want the soil saturated, just moist enough to make digging easier). The hole should be the same depth as what the root ball will be, but at least 12” wider. The transplant should be at the same level or a little higher as its origin site – never lower, which can encourage water to pool and cause rot. When you reach the bottom of the new hole don’t break up the soil at the bottom thinking it will help the roots grow deeper. It can actually cause your transplant to sink, which – like planting it too low – can invite rot. Don’t add any fertilizer (which can burn tender new roots) or compost to the hole. Having the soil the same as its origin site will encourage roots to reach outwards rather than remain in a more confined area of unnaturally rich soil.

 

Digging the Root Ball

The root ball should be about 1/2 to 2/ 3 as deep as the diameter. Start digging about 3 feet around the perimeter of the tree or shrub. Dig carefully and completely around the root ball to keep it intact. Place a large piece of natural burlap on the ground and gently roll the ball onto the burlap. Ensure there is enough burlap to completely wrap and cover the root ball. You want to minimize the amount of time the roots are exposed above ground to prevent them from drying. If your transplant will be out of the ground for an hour or more (be especially mindful of windy conditions) then make sure the root ball is tightly secured in the burlap and well-watered.

 

Planting Your Transplant

Carefully slide/guide your transplant into the new hole, ensuring it is upright and the base is level to, or slightly above, the surrounding ground. Shovel the excavated soil back into the hole, tamping it down firmly and watering as you go to eliminate any air pockets that can cause the plant to shift. Slightly mound the soil in a ring around the plant, forming a small ditch that will help keep the roots watered until the plant becomes established. Spread a 3-inch layer of landscape mulch around the transplant, being careful to keep it a few inches away from the base of the tree or shrub to promote air circulation and to discourage rodents. Water deeply and frequently during the first year of transplanting, especially during hot summer months.

 

Main image credit: PixaBay

Collaborative post

With the end of a tenancy, tension and apprehension can often appear. A smooth handover of a house or flat helps everyone involved, whether that’s in terms of getting deposits back, or being able to hand the property to a new tenant.

The condition of the property at the end of the tenancy can often cause issues. A dirty property can become a major stumbling block in the process.

With speed often of the essence, bringing in professional cleaning firms like Cleaner Cleaner can make a big difference, and have a huge impact on whether the renter gets their deposit back or the landlord can install a new tenant on time.

Why would you employ a cleaner at the end of a tenancy?

Two or three different people or parties are involved at the end of any tenancy. These are the lessor (the owner of the property), the lessee (the person who has occupied the property during the let), and very often an agent who handles various aspects of the property management for the lessor.

Depending on the lease, commercial agreement, or just professional pride, one, two, or even all parties should have an interest in seeing that the property is in a spotless condition at the end of the tenancy.

Using an end of tenancy cleaning company from the lessee’s point of view

Getting the deposit back from the landlord or agent is usually the primary objective of the person who has had the tenancy (the lessee). Deposits can be quite substantial in today’s rental market, particularly in big cities or desirable locations, sometimes running into several thousand pounds in places like London.

There are so many stories of unscrupulous landlords and agents that getting your deposit back can be a considerable task. If you need this money for your next let, or for a deposit on your own property purchase, the whole issue becomes critical to the moving process.

Terms of the lease

More often than not, the lease is likely to state that you have to hand the property back in a clean and tidy condition. You might think this quite clear, but how do you actually define clean and tidy? Clean and tidy is fairly ambiguous, as it doesn’t specify cleaning standards. Running over the carpet with a hoover and cleaning down work surfaces probably isn’t going to be enough.

This is a bigger problem than you might imagine, as failure to meet an agent or landlord’s standards may result in the deposit not being handed back in full. 

There are several choices when it comes to end of tenancy cleaning. You can do it yourself, employ an independent cleaner, or call in a professional cleaning service who specialise in end of tenancy cleaning. 

The first two options could easily fall short of the standard that the landlord or agent expects. You could end up paying to have the place cleaned twice, with the second cost determined by the landlord or agent. In almost all circumstances, it pays to use an end of tenancy cleaning service.

Doing this means the cleaners know exactly what standards are required, and have the correct equipment to clean the whole property to these standards. A further advantage is that they will also provide an invoice to show that you complied with the lease terms.

Using a cleaning company from the lessor’s point of view

For the lessor, time is money. As little time as possible should be lost between the end of a tenancy and the time that new tenants move in. 

The new tenants will expect the house or property to be in perfect condition when they occupy it. While it will almost always be stipulated in the lease that the departing tenants clean the house, more often than not, their cleaning standard can leave a lot to be desired.

For a landlord, the best option is undoubtedly to employ a professional cleaning service. They are likely to be able to come in quickly and thoroughly deep clean the property, minimising the possibility of future delay and loss of revenue.

From an agents perspective

As the agent is working on behalf of the property owner, both of their interests are usually intertwined. Depending on the agreement in place between the property owner and the handling agent, they are likely to be responsible for ensuring that the new tenants receive their house or flat in perfect condition. 

If the cleaning job done by the departing tenants is substandard, then further cleaning will be necessary. At this point bringing in a professional cleaner is probably their only option.

Using a general cleaner, though, could be a mistake. While they will superficially clean well, they may not have access to the professional equipment needed to do a proper deep clean of the property.

What is usually involved in an end-of-tenancy clean?

End of tenancy cleaning is quite a specialised field. It is not just a question of cleaning carpets and work surfaces, but involves the proper cleaning of every ‘nook and cranny’ of the property.

Generally, this will include:

• All interior rooms
• Kitchen
• Bathroom
• En-suites
• Halls and landings

In the kitchen, particular attention will be paid to the oven (often a major cleaning job in itself), fridge, freezer, and other appliances. In the bathroom and en-suites, toilets, baths and showers will be given full attention.

If the flat is let furnished, this means the cleaning of upholstery, beds and mattresses is also likely to be necessary, in addition to wall and floor surfaces.

How to choose the right cleaning company

The question of choosing the right people to clean is not always straightforward. There are plenty of independent cleaners who will pop around for a quick dust and vacuum. Mistakenly, some tenants think this is all that’s needed. However, this is unlikely to meet the standards expected.

Finding a company that has experience in full property deep cleans can make all the difference in ensuring the job is done properly. There are many out there that advertise this service, although it is of course always best to check out their reviews before employing. A really good company will provide guarantees and photos of their cleaning.

What can’t end of tenancy cleaning do?

There is no doubt about the benefits of employing a cleaning service that specialises in end of tenancy work. You will get a clean flat, and an invoice if the landlord or agent chooses to argue.

Damage is another matter. Don’t expect a cleaning company to magically fix the holes you made in the wall, or get burns out of the carpet. Marks and stains shouldn’t pose them any difficulties, but if there is real damage they won’t be able to do anything about it.

Conclusion

As we have seen, getting end of tenancy cleaning right for all involved can be tricky. Everybody’s idea of what is clean varies, so it can be difficult to know what is expected from a lessee’s point of view. From the agent and landlord’s perspective, they don’t want expensive delays or complaints from incoming tenants. 

Bringing in an experienced end of tenancy cleaner is the best solution for all involved. The lessee should calculate this into the expected cost of the move, while if the landlord has issues, it is the quickest way to deal with a dirty property. 

Don’t let a small space or the lack of a yard prevent you from dreaming big. You can host a thriving garden in a planter: Group vegetables and herbs for a culinary feast; cluster several evening-scented white blooms for an ethereal moon garden; or go elegantly minimal with a sculptural Japanese maple or bold agave. As a city dweller, I am always on the lookout for chic planters for my tiny New York City terrace. Below, a summary of the most common types of planter (clay, metal, and composite) and their pros and cons. Plus, some statement pieces that are currently catching my eye.

Clay

Chances are you have several clay pots at home—for good reason: Clay makes an excellent material for garden container. It’s porous, allowing water to evaporate easily (a perfect candidate for cacti and succulents), and it’s abundant. You can find clay pots practically everywhere, in a variety of hues and prices. Terra-cotta is the most common. Ceramic pots have an additional glaze coating, which helps seal in moisture. All clay pots—glazed and unglazed—can chip or crack, so be mindful of how you care for them. (See Gardening 101: How to Prevent Cracks in Terra-Cotta Planters.)

Metal

Whether zinc, steel, copper, aluminum, or iron, seemingly indestructible metal can run
the gamut of styles from sleek and modern to elegant and traditional. The material’s
downside is that it can get hot in summer. Keep containers out of direct sun if you live in
areas with soaring temperatures.

Today we’re in Margot Navarre’s garden in Washington State, where snowdrops are doing their annual late winter–early spring display. These classic bulbs bloom earlier than just about anything else. Moreover, they are easy to grow and resistant to damage by deer, squirrels, and most other pests.

The most common of the 20 species of snowdrops is Galanthus nivalis (Zones 3–7). I have many G. nivalis along with G. elwesii (Zones 4–7) in my garden.

I have purchased a few special varieties of snowdrops throughout the years. Pictured is ‘Rosemarie Burnham’, a beautiful form with green-tinted petals.

Location for snowdrops is important so they can viewed despite their small size. I like to plant the bulbs in the woodlands along the edges of the trails.

Here they are growing on the edges of the path next to clumps of epimedium. The epimedium will ensure that this site is green and full long after the snowdrops have faded.

I am inspired by the snowdrop drifts in English gardens, but I have a long way to go to establish the snowdrop snowstorm. When clumps get big, I dig and divide when the snowdrops have finished blooming but while they still have their green leaves. This is the best time to divide snowdrops and is called digging them “in the green.” I add flags to mark the places I want to dig and plant them.

Snowdrops pair nicely with winter aconite (Eranthis hyemalis, Zones 4–9) and Cyclamen hederifolium (Zones 4–9), as shown in this picture. They also look nice in combinations with Cyclamen coum (Zones 6–8), hellebores (Helleborus hybrids, Zones 4–9), primroses (Primula species and hybrids), and ferns. I also like to grow them underneath deciduous trees such as Japanese maple (Acer palmatum, Zones 5–9) and our native vine maple (Acer circinatum, Zones 5–9).

This snowdrop is called ‘Primrose Warburg’ and is noteworthy because the base of the flower is yellow rather than the typical green. I purchased this rare one in 2015 from Mr. Lynn at Temple Nursery, New York. I put the special ones close to the house so I can watch them grow.

 

Have a garden you’d like to share?

Have photos to share? We’d love to see your garden, a particular collection of plants you love, or a wonderful garden you had the chance to visit!

To submit, send 5-10 photos to [email protected] along with some information about the plants in the pictures and where you took the photos. We’d love to hear where you are located, how long you’ve been gardening, successes you are proud of, failures you learned from, hopes for the future, favorite plants, or funny stories from your garden.

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Freezing green beans is fast and simple, and a great way to keep them on hand whenever you need them.

Having an overabundance of green beans is very common for gardeners in the summer, but the good news is that you can freeze them for later.

They are some of the best vegetables to freeze because they maintain their quality in texture and taste well, with minimal effort.

In this post, I’ll show you exactly how to freeze green beans from your garden or the grocery store with a few easy-to-follow steps.

Preparing Green Beans For Freezing

Preparing green beans for freezing isn’t complicated. Simply give them a quick rinse, and trim the stem ends off.

Then you can either leave them whole or cut them into smaller pieces, depending on your preference, or how you plan to use them later on.

Related Post: How To Grow Green Beans At Home

Can You Freeze Green Beans Without Blanching Them First?

The good news is that you can freeze green beans without balancing them first, which will save you even more time.

But of course you could blanch them if you prefer. Some people feel that it locks in the flavor better. But it’s totally up to you if you want to take the extra step.

How To Blanch Green Beans To Freeze Them

If you decide to blanch your green beans before freezing them, simply drop them in boiling water for 2-3 minutes.

Then promptly remove them and place them in a bowl of ice water to prevent fully cooking them.

The goal is to flash-heat them, and not cook them. Doing this helps to seal in the flavor and clean impurities from the green beans surface.

Methods For Freezing Green Beans

Whether you want to freeze your green beans with or without blanching them first, there are a few different ways you can do it.

Freezing Whole Or Cut Pieces

The fastest method to use is to simply place the whole or cut pieces into baggies, regardless of whether they’re blanched or raw.

The downfall to this method is that they could end up sticking together or creating one large block, which can be difficult to separate later on without thawing the whole thing first.

Flash Freezing

To prevent your green beans from clumping, you can flash freeze them first. It takes a little longer to do it this way, but it will keep them from sticking together.

To flash freeze them, simply arrange your green beans in a single layer on a sheet pan lined with parchment paper.

Then place them in the freezer for 20-30 minutes, or until they are solid to the touch, before filling your bags.

Tools & Supplies Needed

Below is a list of the equipment necessary for all of these methods. But, depending on the process you choose to use, you might not need everything.

How To Store Green Beans In The Freezer

My preferred method of storing green beans in the freezer is to use baggies. That way they lay nice and flat and stack easily, which saves space.

But you could vacuum-seal them first to reduce the chance of freezer burn. Or put them in any type of freezer-safe container that you prefer.

How Long Do Frozen Green Beans Last?

Frozen green beans last about 6 months when stored correctly. You could keep them longer, but they usually start to degrade in flavor and become more prone to freezer burn over time.

Make sure to use a permanent marker to label your containers with the date you froze them so you know when they will expire.

FAQs

Here are some of the most common questions I get asked about freezing green beans, along with my answers. If you can’t find yours here, ask it in the comments below.

How long do you blanch green beans before freezing them?

You can blanch green beans for 2-3 minutes before freezing them, but this step is optional. Be sure to place them into ice water right away afterward to stop the cooking process.

Why do you blanch green beans before freezing them?

Blanching green beans before freezing them kills any bacteria, and can also help to preserve their color, texture, and flavor. But it’s not required.

Can you freeze raw green beans?

Yes you can freeze raw green beans if you’d like, and this is the quickest way to do it.

Can you freeze cooked green beans?

You can freeze cooked green beans. However, they tend to become a bit mushy and lose some of their flavor when you reheat them.

Is it better to freeze green beans raw or cooked?

It is better to freeze green beans raw or blanch them for the best texture and taste. Fully cooked green beans can become mushy and lose their flavor when you freeze them.

Freezing green beans for later use is simple and quick to do. With just a few simple steps, you’ll have some on hand and ready to use whenever you need them.

If you want to learn all there is to know about growing your food up rather than out, my book Vertical Vegetables is exactly what you need. Plus you’ll get step-by-step 23 projects that you can build in your own garden. Order your copy today!

Learn more about my Vertical Vegetables book here.

More About Food Preservation

Share your tips for freezing green beans in the comments section below.

Step By Step Instructions

1. Alaska

With its green and white variegated foliage, this heirloom cultivar is a treat for the eyes whether it’s in bloom or not.

‘Alaska’ produces edible flowers in a mix of yellow, cherry, salmon, and crimson shades, ready to enjoy in 55 to 60 days.

‘Alaska’

With a mature height of 12 to 14 inches, this compact, bushy variety thrives in both full sun and partial shade. This is an adaptable and easygoing cultivar.

You can find ‘Alaska’ seeds in packets of various sizes available from True Leaf Market or at Burpee.

2. Apricot

Perfect for growing in borders or window boxes, ‘Apricot’ produces plants that lift their cheerful and uniquely apricot-colored flowers above bright green foliage.

‘Apricot’

Compact and bushy, this dwarf cultivar makes an attractive addition to any garden bed or container, and matures in 55 to 65 days.

This variety reaches up to 12 inches in height, and seeds are available from Eden Brothers.

3. Black Velvet

These blossoms are such a deep red that they appear almost black, making this type a magical and strikingly unique choice.

The flowers are made even more impressive via the stark contrast between their midnight-hued petals and bright yellow throats.

‘Black Velvet’

Another reason this is such a great pick is that it is a prolific bloomer, and you can enjoy ‘Black Velvet’ throughout the spring and summer.

This trailing type grows up to 12 inches in height, and matures 75 days after sowing.

Seeds are available in packets of various sizes from Eden Brothers.

4. Empress of India

The regal ‘Empress of India’ is a bushy, dwarf heirloom cultivar with a mature height of 16 inches.

‘Empress of India’

Set against dark blue-green foliage, this variety produces long, spurred, two-and-a-half-inch edible scarlet blossoms, and matures in 55 to 65 days.

You can find your ‘Empress of India’ seeds from Eden Brothers and at Burpee.

5. Fiesta Blend

‘Fiesta’ Blend is sure to create a carnival of color in your garden!

The combination of orange, yellow, and bicolored flowers makes this such a fun cultivar – it makes me happy just to look at this cheerful color combination!

‘Fiesta’ Blend

This low-growing variety prefers full sun, and can achieve a height of 10 to 12 inches, making it ideal for planting as a ground cover or in hanging baskets.

You can find ‘Fiesta’ Blend seeds in a variety of packet sizes at Botanical Interests.

6. Indian Chief

Growing up to 60 inches long with a trailing habit, ‘Indian Chief’ is an excellent climber. Bright red flowers with dark centers make a dramatic contrast against its dark green foliage.

‘Indian Chief’

This heirloom cultivar thrives in full sun, and makes a beautiful statement in beds and containers.

You can find seeds in packets of various sizes available from Eden Brothers.

7. Jewel Mix

‘Jewel’ is a trailing variety with brilliant, brightly colored blooms. Easy to grow from seed, it’s perfectly suited for various dry and temperate climates.

Mature in 54 to 63 days, ‘Jewel’ Mix seeds are extremely vigorous, making this an ideal choice for kids or novice gardeners to try.

‘Jewel’ Mix

Perfect for flower beds, fences, and walkways, I have also seen this variety grown in conjunction with beans, and it makes a perfect partner for running up a bean pole.

With two-and-a-half-inch blooms in shades of yellow, peach, carmine, and salmon, this nasturtium is also one of the most popular edible varieties, and it reaches a length of 18 to 24 inches at maturity.

You can find packets of seeds in a variety of sizes at True Leaf Market and from Eden Brothers.

‘Jewel’ is also available in a dwarf size, with a bushy growth habit – ideal for containers and window boxes.

Dwarf ‘Jewel’

Offering a range of two- to three-inch double-spurred flowers in yellow, red, and apricot, this seed mix grows best in full sun, and plants reach a mature height of 10 to 12 inches.

Seeds for the dwarf ‘Jewel’ Mix are available at Burpee and from Eden Brothers.

8. Orange Gleam

‘Orange Gleam’ is a trailing type, ideal for hanging baskets, ground cover, or trained up a trellis. Bright orange, scented, semi-double blooms will make a lively addition to the summer garden.

The ‘Gleam’ series was an All-America Selections Winner in 1935, and originated in a garden in Mexico in the 1920s.

‘Orange Gleam’

‘Orange Gleam’ prefers a full sun location and will reach a mature length of 60 inches, blooming prolifically all summer long.

You can find seeds available in a variety of packet sizes at Eden Brothers.

9. Orchid Flame

‘Orchid Flame’ grows in a bushy, mounding habit, with a mature height of 12 inches.

The beautiful two-inch bicolored flowers, in golden yellow with vibrant red splashes, change color over the course of the season – becoming fully red in late summer.

‘Orchid Flame’

A delightful addition to beds and borders, ‘Orchid Flame’ is also perfect for growing in containers on the patio, where you can enjoy the vivid colors. Plant in a full sun location for best results.

You can find packets of 50 ‘Orchid Flame’ seeds available at Burpee.

10. Peach Melba

You can certainly see where this variety gets its name. The sweet, delicate flowers are a beautiful creamy yellow color with vibrant red centers, which immediately reminds me of the inside of a clingstone peach.

As a compact, bushy variety, this heirloom is perfectly suited to life in the garden bed or a container. I also love its foliage, with a soft blue-gray color that is subtly beautiful and unique.

‘Peach Melba’

Growing up to 12 inches, unlike most nasturtiums, this variety is able to tolerate partial shade – but keep in mind that it does prefer to grow in the sun, and full sun is required to maximize the number of blooms that you get.

You can find seed packets in a variety of sizes from Eden Brothers.

11. Phoenix

The fiery ‘Phoenix’ is just the thing to reinvigorate your garden.

This semi-trailing cultivar is actually a rebirth of the heirloom ‘Golden Gem’ – not seen in seed catalogs since the early 1900s. What makes this variety so unique are its rare split-petaled, lightly ruffled flowers.

As the name suggests, these plants are adorned with flaming red-orange blooms.

‘Phoenix’

This variety is recommended as a border plant, and it will reseed easily, reemerging from the garden beds year after year. It grows to 10 to 12 inches in height at maturity.

You can find packets containing 50 seeds available at Burpee.

12. Purple Emperor

Beautiful light purple blooms, with yellow throats, fade to lavender as the summer wanes.

Deep green foliage and a trailing form makes ‘Purple Emperor’ a regal addition to your garden borders or hanging baskets.

‘Purple Emperor’

With a mature height of 16 inches, ‘Purple Emperor’ prefers a full sun location and is a delightful addition to any garden.

Find seeds in a variety of packet sizes available at Eden Brothers.

13. Vesuvius

A volcano of understated color erupts from ‘Vesuvius,’ with its delicate, salmon pink flowers that bloom prolifically all summer long.

This compact, bushy type has blue-green foliage and reaches a mature size of just 12 inches.

‘Vesuvius’

This heirloom cultivar dates back to 1908, when it first appeared in Burpee’s seed catalog.

Ideal for garden borders, containers, or window boxes, ‘Vesuvius’ prefers a full sun location and will mature in 60 to 80 days.

Seeds are available in packets of various sizes at Eden Brothers and from Burpee.

14. Whirlybird Mix

This seed mix is full of semi-double flowers in a rainbow of colors, from scarlet to pale yellow to golden tangerine.

This compact, low mounding variety tops out at 12 inches and matures in 55 to 65 days.

‘Whirlybird’ Mix

‘Whirlybird’ is ideal for patio containers and window boxes.

To give this cultivar a whirl, you can find seeds in a variety of packet sizes from True Leaf Market.

15. Yeti

This is the ultimate climbing nasturtium, with vines that can reach an impressive 80 inches in length. These vines are dotted with beautiful, delicate, creamy white and yellow blooms.

‘Yeti’

Tolerant of partial shade, this cultivar does prefer full sun exposure, and will mature in 60 to 70 days. ‘Yeti’ is ideal for training up a trellis or over an arbor, and looks beautiful in hanging baskets.

You can find ‘Yeti’ seeds available at Eden Brothers.

Nothing’s Better Than a Nasturtium!

There’s no way that you won’t fall in love with these delightful, delectable, and durable flowers. With so many beautiful nasturtiums to choose from, you are sure to find one that suits you and your garden.

Have you had a go at growing these edible flowers at home? What’s your favorite way to use them in the kitchen, and your favorite variety? Let us know in the comments section below!

And to learn more about growing colorful nasturtium flowers in your garden, check out these guides next:

8. Kentucky Wonder

A multi-use marvel, this next option is a survivor of heatwaves and plant pathogens.

‘Kentucky Wonder’ is a highly productive, open-pollinated heirloom variety from the 1800s that can be used for fresh eating, shelling, and drying.

This cultivar of P. vulgaris produces green pods that reach nine inches long and are curved, with an oval-shaped cross section.

These tasty pole bean pods are stringless at under five inches, have excellent flavor, and contain brown seeds.

‘Kentucky Wonder’ produces vines that reach five to seven feet long, and plants are resistant to bean common mosaic virus (race 1) and rust.

This heat-tolerant variety matures in around 63 days.

‘Kentucky Wonder’

Tasty and disease resistant – yes, please! – ‘Kentucky Wonder’ is available for purchase in packs of 25 grams (or approximately 40 seeds) at Botanical Interests.

9. Monte Gusto

No one said veggies had to be boring, and our next selection is living proof.

With a name that means “mountain of taste,” ‘Monte Gusto’ is an open-pollinated variety of P. vulgaris that has tasty, yellow pods with purple veins.

The bright yellow pods of ‘Monte Gusto’ are easy to spot, should be picked at five to six inches long, and are sweet, flavorful, and crunchy, containing brown seeds.

The vines of ‘Monte Gusto’ reach six feet tall and are resistant to bean common mosaic virus (race 1).

Early for a yellow pole bean variety, this cultivar matures in 55 to 58 days.

‘Monte Gusto’

Pile a mountain of taste into your harvest basket – look for ‘Monte Gusto’ in packets of 200 seeds at Burpee.

10. Orient Wonder

If your interest is piqued by unusual garden crops, you’ll want to consider this next selection.

‘Orient Wonder’ is an open-pollinated cultivar of Vigna sesquipedalis, the species commonly known as yard-long or asparagus bean.

Related to black-eyed peas and mungs, this pole bean variety is excellent for fresh eating.

The tasty pods of ‘Orient Wonder’ are pencil-thin, dark green, and super long – although they can reach 30 inches long, they should be picked at 12 to 18 inches for the best quality.

Delectable pods are smooth, tender, and stringless, containing small brown seeds.

The vines of ‘Orient Wonder’ produce purple flowers and vines that reach six to eight feet long.

If you’ve tried growing yard-longs before and failed, ‘Orient Wonder’ may be your ticket to success. While other varieties of yard-longs need warmer temperatures, ‘Orient Wonder’ can set fruit in cooler conditions.

‘Orient Wonder’ is a hardy variety, tolerating hot, cool, dry, and humid weather, and reaching maturity in approximately 80 days.

‘Orient Wonder’

Ready to bring a bit of Eastern fascination to your veggie garden? You’ll find ‘Orient Wonder’ available for purchase in packets of 20 seeds at Botanical Interests.

Learn more about growing yard-long beans in our article. (coming soon!)

11. Qing Bain

Have a short growing season but you’re looking for big flavor? Feast your eyes on our next option.

‘Qing Bain’ is a Romano-type, open-pollinated heirloom cultivar of P. vulgaris that dates back to the 1800s.

The delicious, bright green pods of this variety are flat, and can be picked at up to 12 inches long and one inch wide.

‘Qing Bain’ is productive, producing flavorful, stringless, tender pods that are great for fresh eating or freezing. These contain white seeds.

The vigorous plants of this variety produce a harvest 50 to 55 days after sowing.

‘Qing Bain’

Have a hankering for this tender veggie? Purchase ‘Qing Bain’ seeds in packs of seven grams, four ounces, one pound, or five pounds at True Leaf Market.

12. Rattlesnake

If this next variety bites, you will be the smitten type of bitten.

This colorful variety of P. vulgaris is a sight to behold and can be enjoyed for fresh eating, shelling, or drying.

An open-pollinated heirloom cultivar, ‘Rattlesnake’ is known for its green pods mottled with attractive splashes of purple.

The pods are delicious, juicy, and tender, and should be picked at eight inches long or less. These turn solid green when cooked, and hold up beautifully for freezing.

The dry seeds of this variety have a rattlesnake-like coloration – light brown graced with dark brown patterns – and they’re great for storage as dried beans.

This pole bean cultivar was established in hot Southern weather and is tolerant of heat, humidity, and drought, but it doesn’t perform as well in Northern climates.

Producing pods in 65 days, ‘Rattlesnake’ vines reach 10 feet tall.

‘Rattlesnake’

Ready to turn the tables and sink your teeth into these snakes? Get ‘Rattlesnake’ seed in an assortment of package sizes, from one ounce up to 40 pounds, at High Mowing Organic Seeds.

13. Scarlet Emperor

Every garden needs a star of the show – and this next option might be yours.

Often grown as an ornamental for its showy blooms, ‘Scarlet Emperor’ is a variety of P. coccineus, a legume commonly known as the runner bean.

Runners are known for their striking red flowers that attract friendly pollinators such as hummingbirds, bees, and butterflies.

This species can be planted a bit earlier than cultivars of P. vulgaris since runners don’t mind cooler weather.

‘Scarlet Emperor’ is a variety that produces sweet, slightly fuzzy, green pods, which can be used for fresh eating when picked at up to six inches long.

However, the pods of this cultivar can reach up to 12 inches long if allowed to mature, producing large seeds that can be used for shelling or dry storage.

The seeds are stunning – they are a mottled magenta and purplish blue when fresh, drying to a gorgeous black and purple.

Vines reach eight to 10 feet tall with orangish-red flowers, and they make an excellent living screen.

‘Scarlet Emperor’ produces fresh pods that are ready to pick in approximately 75 days.

‘Scarlet Emperor’

Ready to let fly a wall of imperial red flowers? You’ll find ‘Scarlet Emperor’ seeds available for purchase in packets of 25 grams at Botanical Interests.

14. Snow on the Mountain

If there is snow on your nearby mountaintops during the cooler months, this next selection’s harvest will help you stay warm all winter long.

‘Snow on the Mountain’ is a lima bean cultivar with a pole growth habit.

Also known as “butter beans,” limas are scientifically classified as P. lunatus, making them cousins of P. vulgaris. Limas include both bush and pole bean cultivars, and ‘Snow on the Mountain’ is one of the climbers.

This open-pollinated heirloom variety dates back as least as far as the 1860s, and produces curved and slightly twisted green pods that are harvested for shelling or drying.

The pods of ‘Snow on the Mountain’ reach four to four and a half inches long and contain three or four sweet and nutty seeds.

The tasty seeds of this variety are fairly small for limas, with a black eye surrounded by a snowy field of white on a dark maroon background – and they are excellent for dry storage.

Expect plants of this variety to grow to at least six feet tall, and to produce a harvest in roughly 80 days.

A rare cultivar, look for ‘Snow on the Mountain’ from heirloom seed sellers.

And if adding more limas to your garden patch sounds like a brilliant idea, you can discover more lima bean varieties in our article.

15. Yellow Bai Bu Lao

Finally, our last selection offers just one more fantastic option in a collection of colorful cultivars.

‘Yellow Bai Bu Lao’ is an open-pollinated heirloom pole bean variety of P. vulgaris from China that produces flavorful, pale green pods which lighten to whitish-yellow as they mature.

The romano-style pods are flat with wavy edges. They contain white seeds, and reach a half an inch wide and 10 to 12 inches long.

The delicious pods of ‘Yellow Bai Bu Lao’ are tender, growing large without developing strings or becoming fibrous. They are borne on five- to eight-foot-tall vines.

‘Yellow Bai Bu Lao’ is hardy, tolerant of cool weather, and reaches maturity in 55 to 60 days.

‘Yellow Bai Bu Lao’

Tempted by these pale and tender beauties? You’ll find ‘Yellow Bai Bu Lao’ seeds available for purchase in packs of 20 grams, four ounces, one pound, or five pounds at True Leaf Market.

The Talk of the Beanstalk

We’ve encountered a lot of pole bean options – green, yellow, purple, and mottled varieties, cultivars that produce a harvest in just 50 days, and others that need a more leisurely 80 days.

There are pencil-thin, stringless types, and others that have big, wide pods.

You also have a choice of flavors that are nutty, meaty, or mushroomy.

And of course there’s the cultural heritage that some of these heirloom pole bean varieties bring with them – some with strong Southern or Midwestern roots, others with Asian origins.

The thing to keep in mind is that a wise choice of pole bean variety is one with an appealing color, flavor, and texture combo that is also a perfect match for the length of your growing season.

Choose well and your bumper crop might attract fans from near and far – maybe even a friendly giant or two. (Psst – plant extra seeds, just in case!)

Are any of these pole bean varieties already among your favorites? Are there any other pole cultivars that hold a special place in your heart?

We especially love stories of varieties passed down throughout the ages, so feel free to tell us your heirloom cultivar stories here – share your thoughts in the comments section below.

After exploring these 15 options, do you still have beans on the brain? If you’d like to keep learning more about how to grow legumes for your dinner plate, we have even more fodder for your homegrown food fascination right here:

Welcome to an eggs-traordinary collection of funny Easter jokes for kids and Easter puns.  We’ve got everything you need for Easter giggles right here.

Brilliant Easter puns and Easter jokes for kids

As well as funny jokes for Easter in general, there are Easter bunny jokes, Easter egg jokes, Easter knock knock jokes, and a whole basket of Easter puns.  We’ve even included our favourite Easter dad jokes for added eye-rolls.

Pick your favourites for some family laughs, or use them alongside our nature hashtags as captions for your social media pictures and videos.  An Easter joke is also ideal for making Easter greetings card messages more fun.

Funny Easter jokes

Let’s kick things off with some eggs-cellent Easter jokes for kids.

What do you get if you pour warm water into a rabbit hole?  Hot, cross bunnies.

What’s the best way to make Easter easier?  Put an “i” where the “t” is.

Where does Christmas come before Easter?  In the dictionary.

What do all the Easter eggs want to do when the egg hunt starts?  Scramble.

How do rabbits throw a tantrum?  They get hopping mad.

What kind of jewellery makes a good Easter gift?  14 carrot gold.

What do you call a rabbit with the sniffles?  A runny bunny.

More funny jokes for Easter giggles

Why was the little girl sad after the Easter egg hunt?  Because an egg beater.

Why don’t rabbits get hot in summer?  They have hare conditioning.

Where does Dracula keep his Easter eggs?  In his Easter casket.

What do you get if you cross a rabbit with an onion?  A bunion.

Why couldn’t the rabbit fly home for Easter?  She didn’t have the hare fare.

What do you get if you cross a rabbit with shellfish?  An oyster bunny.

What do you call the Easter bunny on Easter Monday?  Eggs-austed.

Happy Easter funny jokes

Use these Easter jokes to wish someone a Happy Easter.

What do you call a rabbit who tells good jokes?  A funny bunny.

Why don’t you see dinosaurs at Easter?  Because they’re eggs-tinct.

Where does Easter take place every year?  Where eggs marks the spot.

How does every Easter end?  With an “r”.

What do you get if you cross a frog with a rabbit? A bunny ribbit.

Easter egg jokes

Let’s crack on with some jokes for easter eggs.

What do you call an Easter egg from outer space?  An egg-straterrestrial.

How can you make Easter preparations go faster?  Use the eggs-press lane.

What do you call a very tired Easter egg?  Eggs-austed.

What did one Easter egg say to the other?  Heard any good yokes today?

Why should you never tell a joke to an Easter egg?  It might crack up.

What day does an Easter egg hate the most?  Fry-day.

What do you call a zen egg?  An ommmmmmelette.

Why did the Easter bunny have to fire the duck?  Because he kept quacking the eggs.

What did the Easter egg ask for at the hair salon?  A new dye-job.

What type of stories do Easter eggs like to tell their children?  Yolk tales.

Easter bunny jokes

These Easter bunny funny jokes will have you hopping with laughter.

Why did the Easter bunny go on strike?  He wanted a better celery.

How can you tell if the Easter bunny is getting old?  Look for grey hares.

What’s the Easter bunny’s favourite kind of music?  Hip-hop.

How does the Easter bunny keep his fur looking good?  He uses a hare brush.

What happened to the Easter bunny when he misbehaved at school?  He was egg-spelled.

Who is the Easter bunny’s favourite actor?  Rabbit de Niro.

What do you call an Easter bunny with a bad memory?  A hare-brain.

What’s the Easter bunny’s favourite type of exercise?  Hare-obics.

Why was the Easter bunny upset?  He was having a bad hare day.

How do you send a letter to the Easter bunny?  By hare mail.

More Easter bunny puns and jokes

How do you know if the Easter bunny is in a good mood?  He’s hoppy.

What’s the Easter bunny’s favourite dance?  The bunny hop.

Where does the Easter bunny get his eggs?  From an eggplant.

How does the Easter bunny stay fit?  Eggs-ercise.

Why does the Easter bunny bring toilet paper to a party?  Because he’s a party pooper.

How does the Easter bunny travel?  By hare-plane.

What did the Easter bunny say to the carrot?  It’s been nice gnawing you.

Why did the Easter bunny cross the road?  Because the chicken had his eggs.

What kind of stories do Easter bunnies like the most?  Ones with hoppy endings.

Easter knock knock jokes

Still hungry for more fun Easter jokes?  These kids Easter jokes should hit the spot.

Knock, knock.  Who’s there?  Wendy.  Wendy who?  Wendy Easter egg hunt gonna start?

Knock, knock.  Who’s there?  Arthur.  Arthur who?  Arthur any more Easter eggs to eat?

Knock, knock.  Who’s there?  Heidi.  Heidi who?  Heidi the eggs all around the garden!

Knock, knock.  Who’s there?  Alma.  Alma who?  Alma Easter eggs are gone, can I have some more?

Knock, knock.  Who’s there?  Some bunny.  Some bunny who?  Some bunny’s been hiding my Easter eggs!

Knock, knock.  Who’s there?  Howie.  Howie who?  Howie going to get all the Easter eggs?

Knock, knock.  Who’s there?  Police.  Police who?  Police hurry up and decorate your eggs!

Knock, knock.  Who’s there?  Butcher.  Butcher who?  Butcher Easter eggs in your basket!

Knock, knock.  Who’s there?  Boo.  Boo who?  Don’t cry, Easter will be back next year!

Easter dad jokes

How about dialling up the Easter humour with some Easter dad jokes?

What happened when the Easter bunny met the rabbit of his dreams?  They lived hoppily ever after.

What do you call a mischievous Easter egg?  A practical yolker.

Which side of the Easter bunny has the most fur?  The outside.

Did you hear about the Easter bunny who sat on a bumblebee?  It’s a tender tail.

What do you call a transformer bunny?  Hop-timus Prime.

What’s the Easter bunny’s favourite sport?  Basket-ball.

Did you hear about the lady whose house was infested with Easter eggs?  She had to call an eggs-terminator.

Why did the Easter egg hide?  She was a little chicken.

What do you get if you cross the Easter bunny with Winnie the Pooh?  A honey bunny.        

I was going to tell you a joke about an Easter egg…. but it’s not all it’s cracked up to be.

Funny Easter puns for instagram and TikTok

Hoppily ever after

Some-bunny to love

Ears to a great Easter

Chick out this beautiful Easter day

Don’t worry, be hoppy

I’m all ears today

Happy Easter to all my peeps

Don’t be a basket case

Hop ’til you drop

Does my hare look good?

Easter egg puns

I’m so egg-cited

The yolk’s on you

No eggs-cuses

Egg hunt time – hop to it       

Have an egg-stra special Easter

Dyeing to colour some Easter eggs

Test your cluck at the Easter egg hunt

I’m an Easter eggs-pert

Hope you have an egg-cellent Easter

Easter eggs to dye for

Heard any good yokes lately?

I’m eggs-austed

That’s all yolks

So many egg puns, it’s not bunny

Even more Easter puns for cards and social media

Chick me out!

That’s not bunny

I carrot believe it’s Easter

Hop stuff

Happy Easter to a good egg

Don’t yolk with me

How do I like my eggs?  Chocolate

Hot cross pun, anyone?

Hoppy Easter

These Easter puns crack me up

These Easter jokes for kids are eggs-tremely bunny!

We hope you’ve enjoyed this roundup of funny Easter jokes for kids and Easter puns.  For more Easter fun, take a look at our lovely Easter nature crafts.

There’s also lots more spring-themed fun to be had with our lists of spring puns, spring quotes and spring nature crafts.  Make sure you download our free printable spring bucket list for lots of low-cost outdoor play ideas too.

You’ll also find lots of inspiration in *A Year of Nature Craft and Play.  There’s a whole year’s worth of nature-themed activities, projects and games for kids to enjoy.

More family-friendly jokes

If jokes are popular in your family, we’ve got you covered.

On a seasonal theme, we’ve got fall puns, halloween jokes for kids, and christmas jokes for kids.

For an animal theme, there’s cat puns, bird puns and bee puns.

On a nature theme, we’ve got flower puns, tree puns, plant puns, garden puns, vegetable puns, potato puns, and fruit puns.

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This is truly amazing – imagine growing citrus beneath a snow drift!

Citrus fruits (oranges, lemons, mandarins, tangerines, grapefruits, limes, pomeloes) are the highest-value fruit crop in terms of international trade. Citrus plants are not frost-hardy and can only be grown in tropical and subtropical climates – unless they are cultivated in fossil fuel heated glasshouses.

However, during the first half of the twentieth century, citrus fruits came to be grown a good distance from the (sub)tropical regions they usually thrive in. The Russians managed to grow citrus outdoors, where temperatures drop as low as minus 30 degrees Celsius, and without the use of glass or fossil fuels.

By 1950, the Soviet Union boasted 30,000 hectares of citrus plantations, producing 200,000 tonnes of fruits per year.

The Expansion of Citrus Production in the Soviet Union

Before the first World War, the total area occupied by citrus plantations in the Russian Empire was estimated at a mere 160 hectares, located almost entirely in the coastal area of Western Georgia. This region enjoys a relatively mild winter climate because of its proximity to the Black Sea and the Caucasus Mountain range – which protects it against cold winter winds coming from the Russian plains and Western Siberia.

Nevertheless, such a climate is far from ideal for citrus production: although the average winter temperature is above zero, thermal minima may drop to between -8 to -12 degrees Celsius. Frost is deadly to citrus plants, even a short blast. For example, at the end of the 19th century, the extensive citrus industry in Florida (US) was almost completely destroyed when temperatures dropped briefly to between -3 and -8 degrees Celsius…

(Read the rest at Low Tech Magazine – it’s utterly fascinating!)

Push the Zone!!!

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Corn Cockle, Agrostemma githago

Looking for an underused but highly charming cottage flower? Agrostemma could be it. I have recently started adding this cutie to both my clients’ cutting gardens and rambunctious planting beds. One look at the playful petals, one encounter watching the flower-filled stems bop back and forth in barely a breeze, and one sighting of them tucked into a loose flower arrangement—and you will instantly want this bloom for your garden.

Please keep reading to learn more about this old-fashioned flower:

Super easy to grow, Agrostemma is a half hardy annual that deserves a comeback. Its botanical name is derived from agros (field, countryside) and stemma (garland, wreath), hinting at its usefulness in beautifying objects. Native to Europe, this florific plant, also known as corn cockle, thrives in cool weather and therefore really shines in early summer, before rising temperatures slow it down; if you live in a mild climate, it will continue to bloom all the way to September. Willowy, silvery-green stems stand relatively upright and reach about 36 inches tall and 18 inches wide.

This plant is fast and easy to grow from seed, and you can do this by sowing seeds outdoors in the very early spring for a late spring bloomfest, or fall or winter in warmer climates (Zones 8 and above). If you find nursery grown plants (I like to buy them in 4 inch pots), add compost to the soil when planting. Once your Agrostemma starts its show, cut your flowers for arrangements when the flutes are half opened. And deadhead when spent blooms arrive to extend the flowering season. Toward the end of the season, leave some  flowers to set seed so you can get some self-sown sweeties for next year. Pro tip: Plant a few in a cluster for a mass effect, or wind and weave some through a planting bed for a loose and airy feel.

Cheat Sheet

• Perfect in a cutting, cottage, or Victorian garden, or even winding through a meadow.
• Adds a romantic, carefree feel.
• Great companion plants are: Calendula, Centaurea, Peony, and Iris.
• Attracts bees and other critical pollinators.
• All parts of this plant, including the seeds, are poisonous so be careful around children and pets.
• Naturally deer-resistant.

Keep It Alive

• Full sun is best.
• Plant in regular to rich soil that drains well.
• Medium amounts of water are perfect to keep it happy, but it can also tolerate some drought.
• Surprisingly no fertilizer is required and no pests will bother it.
• May need support at the base if too floppy for your taste. Otherwise appreciate its relaxed look.

See also:

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My name is Dodie. I’ve been gardening in northern Alabama for 15 years. Our urban property is in a historic neighborhood in Decatur. It had a wonderful backbone of plantings created by owners of the home in the mid-80s. We moved to lovely Zone 7b in 2008 from Zone 9 (Houston area), and I have absolutely reveled in it!

Even though the garden had been neglected for years, the Japanese magnolias (Magnolia liliflora, Zones 5–8), star magnolias (Magnolia stellata, Zones 4–9), oakleaf hydrangeas (Hydrangea quercifolia, Zones 5–9), native dogwood (Cornus florida, Zones 5–9), American boxwoods (Buxus sempervirens, Zones 5–8), Magnolia grandiflora, and bigleaf magnolia (Magnolia macrophylla, Zones 5–8) were in good shape and provided the inspiration and structure for our garden renovation. The former owners had also planted a ligustrum hedge along two sides of the fence in the backyard, which had grown into small trees over the years. They created a perfect canopy for azaleas (Rhododendron ‘Pink Ruffle’ and ‘George Tabor’, Zones 7–10), which were planted the year after we moved into the house.

The gardens have been a continuous work in progress. They are my playground, my gym, and my sanctuary. Last year we eliminated the little bit of lawn that was left in the back, enlarging beds and creating a brick sidewalk, bubble rocks, stone benches, and soft lighting throughout the garden. We also upcut three arborvitae ‘Green Giant’ (Thuja ‘Green Giant’, Zones 5–9), which resulted in plenty of room for new shade plants. I added hosta (Hosta ‘Golden Tiara’, Zones 3–8) and heuchera (Heuchera ‘Dale’s Strain’, ‘Catching Fire’, and ‘Carnival Rose Granita’, Zone 4 – 7). In the sun areas, I added Baptisia ‘Blueberry Sundae’ (Zone 4 – 9), oriental lilies (Lilium ‘Casa Blanca’, ‘Stargazer’, and ‘Presidente’, Zones 4–9) to the existing mix of pink Knock Out roses (Rosa ‘Pink Knock Out’, Zones 5–9), ‘Rose Glow’ barberry (Berberis thunbergii ‘Rose Glow’, Zones 4–8), daylilies (Hemerocallis fulva ‘Keanso’, Zones 3–9), tall garden phlox (Phlox paniculata, Zones 4–8), and sweetspire (Itea ‘Little Henry’, Zones 5–9). I love the explosion of pinks and oranges in early summer! Canna lilies ‘Australia’ (Canna ‘Australia’, Zones 7–10 or as a tender bulb) are like purple exclamation points in the sunny spaces.

Two photos show an overview of the garden in winter. The other photos show mostly views of mid-to-late spring and early summer. I can’t wait to see how much the new plants have grown. Hopefully the hostas and heucheras will fill in the bare spaces. My goal this year is to add late-summer perennials that will keep the color coming through July and August and to find a low-growing perennial to edge the beds and replace the white impatiens I planted last year. I know that no matter what I plant it will not match what’s in my brain, so I always have something new to work on! Happy spring y’all!!

Spring bloom from azaleas and tulips

Overview of the back garden in early spring, with magnolias just coming into bloom

Bigleaf magnolia in bloom

This is the garden in early spring, but lots of beautiful trees and evergreens keep it full of interest all year.

An explosion of color in summer from daylilies, phlox, lilies, roses, and more

New plantings settling in and already looking great

Another view of the new plantings in their spring bloom

 

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