Category: Home & Garden

Collaborative post

Most parents would rather do anything than think about the reasons why they might need a lawyer at some point. Things are hard for families in the UK at the moment, and contemplating another difficult scenario can feel like even more pressure.

However, planning for a rainy day is not the same as inviting it to happen; you’re just giving yourself an umbrella. None of us know what the future is going to bring. Whether it’s a family-shattering event, or a piece of admin that you can’t get your head around, it makes sense to have someone who knows what they are doing and has the relevant experience to help you.

If someone has a serious accident

Accidents happen. Anyone who drives a car will have had more near misses than they might like to admit, and those stories about injuries at the workplace are not just fodder for insurance ads on TV.

If you or a family member has an accident, then you will of course have a lot more pressing concerns than a financial settlement. But it’s worth remembering that insurance companies can sometimes be tricky to pin down. A good solicitor can make sure that everything goes smoothly, so you can worry about the important thing: your family’s health.

If you are getting a divorce

Getting a divorce is gruelling, and you won’t have made this decision lightly. But even if you are splitting up amicably and have agreed how you are going to separate, you should still use a lawyer to get everything done properly. Especially if there are children involved. Things can become emotionally fraught, even with the best will in the world. Plus, there is bound to be lots of admin to take care of, and you don’t need to be worrying about what piece of paperwork to file next.

Legal aid solicitors can help with this emotional situation by guiding you through the process. The team at National Legal Service has a wealth of experience in dealing with divorce cases, as well as many other areas of family law. Get in touch to learn more about their caring approach and how they can help you.

If you run your own small business

The success of your business can be directly tied to your family’s stability. You’ll want to take care of any potentially damaging legal situations as quickly as possible. There are plenty of scenarios where you should talk to a lawyer that are not drastic or scary. For example, you might be thinking about opening a physical location, or bringing on some employees. It’s much better to talk to a lawyer who has experience in this area instead of diving in yourself.

There’s also a risk of running into a situation where another company or a client is threatening you with legal action. If this happens you should get a lawyer involved as soon as possible. You can end up making a lot of expensive mistakes if you try and find your own solutions. A lawyer will be able to advise you exactly what to do next.

If an estate needs to be settled

It is a terrible, earth-shattering event when someone you love passes away. The tidal wave of grief can make it difficult to focus on practical issues like the will. And if your loved one didn’t leave clear instructions, or if they made their will many years ago, things could get complicated very quickly. If someone feels like they have been excluded from the process, or if a mistake has been made in the execution of the will, this adds stress to an already difficult situation.

A good lawyer can make a huge difference by simply taking things off your plate. If you can find someone who has experience in helping with estate law, you can hand the details over to them and wait to hear what you need to do. This way, you can put your loved ones first.

If you are adopting a child

Deciding to adopt a child is a wonderful thing, and it can also be a challenge. If you embark on this journey it can be a very long one, with many checks that need to be conducted to ensure that the child in question is going to a suitable home.

You and your partner will need to answer a lot of questions about your lives, your work, and your past (yes, you’re going to need references). It can be even more complicated if you are adopting a child from overseas. Using a lawyer who has experience in helping prospective parents through the adoption process can be a big help. They’ll highlight the things you need to prepare when it comes to background checks and references, and explain how long you may be waiting for a result. They’ll also be able to give you support when it feels overwhelming.

None of us relish the idea of a family situation where we need to talk to a lawyer, but by considering the possibilities you can be prepared should the need arise.

Do you find yourself scrolling mindlessly on TikTok while waiting for someone or something? One video after another and another and another…

Tik Tok may be discounted as a waste of time or even maligned (sometimes rightly so), but if you use it properly, you can find real gems with helpful information. The key is to search—don’t scroll. I typed in #garden, then #gardening, #gardeninghacks, #gardeningtips, #gardeningtricks. And then I fell down the rabbit hole…

Here are five ideas I discovered on TikTok that every gardener should know.

1. Turn plastic bottles into ollas.

Ollas are terra-cotta watering pots that are buried beneath the soil, where the water is slowly released through the pot’s pores. They deliver water directly to the roots, where it’s needed, and not on the surface, where it evaporates. While we love clay ollas, fitting out your entire vegetable garden with them may get a tad pricey. Instead, you may want to follow the lead of gardening TikTokers and repurpose plastic bottles as ollas in your garden, keeping plastic out of the waste stream while keeping your tomatoes watered. All you need to do is poke some holes and bury them in soil before you plant (so as not to disturb the roots; if you’ve already planted, just be very careful)—and fill with water as needed. Two liter soda bottles are great for thirsty plants and 16 ounce water bottles can work for about everything else. 

2. Build a raised bed with cinder blocks.

Cinder blocks can be found at any big box building supply store, and while they may not be the first thing you think of when picking out a material to build a raised bed, they work quite well. They’re sort of like a hypertufa that doesn’t require a mold. You will need to do a bit of research, but once you have the right tools (a spirit level is probably the single most important tool for this), invite some friends over for pizza and beer and build yourself a gardening bed!

3. DIY a tomato cage.

Sometimes you see something and think: Why didn’t I consider that?! Tomatoes can grow out of their cages and out of control. Here’s an easy and fast hack to create a simple but supportive trellis using stakes and twine. The real beauty is at the end of season, all you’re storing are the stakes, not bulky and bent aluminum cages. 

4. Water seedlings from underneath.

Starting seeds for the first time? Water like a pro and water from underneath. Wait? What? What do you mean from underneath? This trick saves your seedlings from getting moldy and dying. It’s easy-peasy. 

5. Space your carrots correctly.

Do your carrots rows look like a drunken sailor planted them? Make a carrot board for even spacing and straight rows! Properly spaced carrots are yours! Simply take a flat board and glue on bottle caps, topside down, about two to three inches apart in a single row for a board that is 12″ wide. Carrot rows should be planted 12″ apart, but you may be able to make the rows closer for some varieties. The video also shares a good trick for giving your carrot seeds the best chance at germinating. This one is worth 40 seconds of your time.

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Today we’re back to Keith in chilly Zone 3 in Canada.

Today I would like to share photos of the latest evolution in my garden that I didn’t have room for in my earlier post (Keith’s Zone 3 Garden) and some other random photos of annuals and perennials.

This area was probably the most eye-catching vignette in the garden up until 2021. In the spring of 2022 the ground-level deck, tiered plant stands, and pebblestone slabs all had to be removed because the wood on the plant stands was rotted to the point it was unsafe to climb up there for watering.

Not only is this garden challenged by the cold Zone 3 climate, but water is also an issue. Since we live in the country, our water comes from a well with limited supply, and it is ice cold. We collect up to 450 gallons of rainwater in four barrels. The vegetable garden raised beds and all the many containers are hand-watered with 2-gallon water cans. In-ground beds are in Mother Nature’s hands for watering.

After much discussion a decision was made to replace the tiered structure with a simple ground-level composite deck, which cut back our annual planting and daily watering tremendously.

This photo is taken from a different angle but gives you a peak at the new composite deck.

I mentioned this container in my original post, but there wasn’t room for a photo. This was my grandmother’s cast-iron maple syrup cauldron. Here it is planted with a red canna (Canna hybrid, Zones 8–10 or as a tender bulb), Inferno and Wasabi coleus (Coleus scutellarioides, Zones 10–12 or as annuals), impatiens (Impatiens walleriana, Zones 10–12 or as an annual), and Zinnia ‘Zahara Sunburst’ (annual).

Mexican firecracker vine (Ipomoea lobata, Zones 10–12 or as an annual) adorns a five-plex birdhouse that was a winter project.

It is amazing how large Amaranthus ‘Tricolor’ (annual) gets in a large pot. It is sharing its home here with lime sweet potato vine (Ipomoea batatas, Zones 10–12 or as an annual) and Mexican firecracker vine.

Here is a typical annual bed since we changed our color scheme to red, yellow, and orange. Any blues, purples, etc., are perennials from before the change. Featured here are Rudbeckia ‘Cherokee Sunset’ (Zones 3–8, usually grown as an annual), ‘Love Lies Bleeding’ amaranthus (Amaranthus caudatus, annual), and Zinnia ‘Zahara Sunset’.

Canna ‘Cleopatra’ in bloom

One of three tree peonies (Paeonia hybrid, Zones 3–8) we have. There is also a red one and a yellow one. These are pushing the hardiness zone, but most years I cover them with Styrofoam boxes in the winter. I don’t get mortality if they don’t get covered, but they either don’t bloom or the blooms are sparse.

My favorite lily, Lilium ‘Hotel California’ (Zones 3–9)

I think this is Clematis integrifolia (Zones 3–8). It is a nonclimbing clematis, only about 3 feet tall. I have never had any luck overwintering a regular clematis.

 

Have a garden you’d like to share?

Have photos to share? We’d love to see your garden, a particular collection of plants you love, or a wonderful garden you had the chance to visit!

To submit, send 5-10 photos to [email protected] along with some information about the plants in the pictures and where you took the photos. We’d love to hear where you are located, how long you’ve been gardening, successes you are proud of, failures you learned from, hopes for the future, favorite plants, or funny stories from your garden.

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However, there are environmental concerns about peat’s use due to the release of carbon as it breaks down in the soil.

Keep reading for the facts about a common soil additive that many growers swear by and alternative materials that can be substituted.

Why We Like It

When it gets to consumers, this somewhat spongy material is dry and brown, and is sold in bags or bales and marketed as an alternative to compost.

Gardeners adore its dry and airy texture and have been using it in their soil for decades.

It absorbs water like nothing else, which is why it is often used to give seeds a good start in arid climates.

Used as a soil amendment, it can add “fluffiness” to the soil. But what do I mean by that?

Soil that is mixed with peat is much less dense. It behaves like lignin (decomposed wood cellulose). It doesn’t get compacted, which can suffocate new seedlings or cause root veggies to become stunted because they can’t push through dense clay soil types.

In a word, peat is springy. Just squish it between your fingers. You’ll see what I’m talking about.

Gardeners also like that its introduction to the garden causes no disruptions. There are no pathogens, bacteria, bugs, weed seeds, or other nasties to worry about, like you might find in other soil amendments.

In essence, you can add it in with no worries that you will introduce harmful elements to your soil.

This amendment has been revolutionizing gardening for years.

It’s often marketed as a simple, one-step solution to attaining the soil of your dreams. It’s also a $500 million industry in Canada, the leading supplier of horticultural peat products sold in the United States.

Sounds great, right? So why would anyone have an issue with this supplement?

Well, it can cause your soil to become more acidic. Though this can be a problem for some plants, this also means it’s a great solution for growing plants that love more acidic soil, like blueberries.

We’ve also known for some time that adding this product to amend the soil around pink hydrangeas can be the boost they need to turn them blue.

But what if you don’t want a more acidic soil? You will need to balance it out, usually with lime, to keep your pH from going awry.

This product isn’t the most affordable soil additive either, so you’ll want to add that factor into the equation, as well.

And this product has costs beyond what you pay at the garden center, too.

Let’s learn more about this gardening ingredient, and why its production can be controversial.

What is Peat Moss?

As it exists in nature, peat moss is made up of layers upon layers of partially decomposed plant remains — such as sedges, reeds, mosses, and grasses — and is formed over thousands of years when an abundance of water and the absence of oxygen affect the natural processes of decay, according to the Royal Horticultural Society, a British conservation group.

Peat moss is found in bogs — swampy, mucky, waterlogged areas primarily located in the northern hemisphere.

In fact, Canada, Finland, Ireland, and Russia are the primary sources for the commercial product, according to Marianne C. Ophardt at the Washington State University Extension.

Scotland, too, is home to much bog, with 23% of the country being covered with peat. But most of Scotland’s peat is protected, not commercialized.

A plant called sphagnum moss is often found growing on top of the layers of peat moss, but this live plant material should not be confused with peat moss, which refers to the often-ancient layers of decomposed material.

Harvesting History

Harvesting this soil amendment requires a bog to be drained of all near-surface water. Then, layers of native vegetation must be removed.

When the top layer of decomposed material is exposed to the elements, it begins to dry out and becomes suitable for a process known as “scraping.”

Commercial harvesters use large vacuums to harvest up to 100 acres of peat per day during the harvest season.

The commercially more desirable material (which is newer and less decomposed) is found toward the surface and is marketed differently than the lower layers.

What’s Wrong With Using Peat Moss?

The scraping or harvesting process conducted to glean this product is under scrutiny, as the peat bogs provide a habitat for a variety of creatures, including certain species of plants and frogs that are unique to peat bogs and mires.

In order to access peat, there is a considerable disruption to these living things, and the removal of peat acres also decreases overall production of necessary gasses and nutrients.

Manufacturers have found themselves defending the practice of mining and selling these products to consumers. They claim that they are using responsible practices to ensure that what they take is growing back at a healthy rate.

The rate of growth varies widely — including as slowly as 1/16-inch per year — and all countries do not regulate these products the same way. While Canada has done a good job of tracking overall reserves, other nations continue to harvest the material without any standard enforcement of sound ecological practices.

This has caused other regions to respond by issuing bans on certain uses of this soil amendment. Ireland, which has stopped peat mining for good in certain regions, is leading the charge for change.

Scotland is returning acres of peatland to their natural state after misguided timber companies seeded trees on ancient bogs decades ago. Scientists there found that peatlands are an important part of our ecosystem for their ability to absorb and retain carbon dioxide.

Government groups around the world continue to work with ecological experts, colleges, and industry leaders to adjust standards as needed to keep depletion at a minimum.

A Look at Suitable Peat Alternatives

Many of us consider peat a gardening necessity, even if it has only been popular in the last 20 years.

That means generations before us found other means of amending their soil. It’s worth considering whether these alternatives might be more suitable, given how long it takes peat bogs to replenish.

Let’s take a look at a few of them:

Compost

One effective method of amending soil for density and drainage control is by adding a suitable compost.

Admittedly, compost takes time to produce, and we don’t always have the weeks or even months needed to get the right consistency or pH by making it ourselves.

It also compacts quite a bit more than peat, so if you are looking for that airy benefit, you won’t get it here.

But if we do have the time and foresight required, this is an excellent way to avoid the peat conflict altogether.

What kinds of compost work well in place of peat?

You can certainly use what you have on hand, but compost made from crushed eggshells, shredded corn cobs, used coffee grounds, and fruit and veggie scraps is the easiest to work with.

For additional tips on making fantastic compost, see our beginners guide here.

A special compost blend made from alternating layers of manure – from herbivores only – and straw is also recommended. As the manure breaks down the fibers in the straw, a lighter and airier compost forms that is comparable to peat moss in its density.

Leaves, Mulch, and Sand

In addition to fully decomposed compost, you might have success aerating the soil directly with other natural materials.

I’ve found that dried fall leaves can be broken up to make a fine soil amendment. Wood from a chipper may be produced finely enough to have a similar benefit.

Dried lawn clippings may work well too, as long as they have not been chemically treated in any way.

If better drainage is all you are after, a fine layer of sand could do the trick. This can be especially effective when growing certain vine fruits and veggies.

For example, watermelons love an extra inch or two of sand worked into the topsoil, and it’s far more affordable than peat for amending the soil in large areas of the garden.

Perlite

Perlite is another little-known tool that has made gardening a dream for me, and has rescued me from many tricky situations.

This product is a puffed-up volcanic rock material that resembles tiny foam balls, and it is available by the bag online and from garden supply stores.

Small cavities on the surface of each particle of perlite help to retain water, and keep nutrients near root systems. It also promotes drainage by keeping the soil airy, as each particle is comprised of tiny air passages.

Perlite is currently sold by many major gardening supply manufacturers.

Hoffman Horticultural Perlite

For example, you can find an 18-quart supply of perlite from Hoffman, via Amazon.

Espoma Organic Perlite

If you need a smaller quantity, try this 8-quart bag from Espoma, available from Amazon.

We use perlite for seed starting, improving raised beds, and lightening the bottoms of large planters that need good drainage. And it really works miracles in my garden without affecting the pH of the soil.

While it’s a non-renewable resource, it’s currently very cheap to procure, is very efficient by volume, and stands to hold up well to worldwide demand.

Vermiculite

One final option is vermiculite, which is often used interchangeably with perlite in conversation – but they are not in fact the same.

Perlite, as described above, is made from super-heated volcanic glass, and it resembles foam or popcorn. Vermiculite, which is soft and spongy, is made from super-heated aluminum iron magnesium silicates that resemble mica in appearance.

Because it expands so much during its heating process, it has the ability to absorb 3-4 times its volume in water. It also does an excellent job of retaining minerals needed for plants to grow, making it one of the better soil additives for root growth and health.

Vermiculite is produced by several companies, and is usually offered in four particulate sizes. The tiniest is most commonly used for starting seeds. It is very close to neutral in pH, but can be slightly alkaline, depending on where and under what conditions it was mined.

Espoma Organic Vermiculite

Espoma offers an 8-quart bag of organic vermiculite via Amazon.

There is currently very little information on whether this substance is at risk of being depleted in the near future, but there is no way to replace the materials that make it.

There has also been some concern regarding the safety of vermiculite, mostly likely due to an asbestos contamination event at a Libby, Montana, mine, which closed in 1990.

The Libby mine harvested both asbestos and the material needed to make vermiculite. The vermiculite became contaminated with asbestos, causing products to be contaminated.

Vermiculite sold today would not come from this now-shuttered mine, nor would it be in the supply channel after all this time.

Regarding perlite and vermiculite, your best bet is to experiment with these materials to see what you like best. I know many gardeners who choose one option for seeds, another for potting mix, and something else for raised beds.

Your mileage may vary, but either option is suitable for most purposes.

Coconut Coir

Another option for supplementing the soil is coconut coir. The outside fibers of coconut shells are used to make this material.

You can actually find coconut coir as a stand-alone option or in many garden soil mixes, combined with the other solutions we mentioned, such as peat, perlite, or vermiculite.

Since it is a byproduct of existing coconut harvesting, and was originally considered waste, it is a very eco-friendly alternative to peat. It absorbs water and can also help lighten the density of the soil, promoting drainage.

It has become a favorite among hydroponic growers and worm farmers in the past few years, and is sold to gardeners everywhere on sites like Amazon.com.

Coco Coir

You can find coconut coir from FibreDust through Amazon.

Should You Ever Use Peat?

Very few of the resources that we use in gardening are truly renewable. Mulching and compost, via wasted plant materials and our garbage, are probably among the most sustainable options out there.

That doesn’t mean that peat doesn’t have a place, however.

If you find yourself using more materials and resources than necessary to avoid using this soil amendment, you might be doing more harm than good. A small amount of peat has the possibility of saving water, fuel for your tiller, or a drive to the recycling plant for DIY mulch ingredients.

If you are a good steward of the small amount of this product you purchase, it may be a worthwhile investment for your garden.

Only you can determine the total cost of using this dearly loved gardening tool. I know that many gardeners have weighed the impact of using just a small amount of this soil amendment wisely and have found it to be appropriate.

Do you use this product in your garden? We won’t judge! We’d love to hear how you are getting the most out of your peat purchases, as well as other ideas for amending the soil in a similar fashion!

Cultivation and History

Bottlebrush is the common name for Callistemon, a genus of evergreen flowering shrubs in the myrtle family, Myrtaceae.

This is not to be confused with Sanguisorba obtusa, another species that is sometimes called the bottlebrush plant, or the bottlebrush buckeye, Aesculus parviflora.

Endemic to Australia, bottlebrush shrubs are widely cultivated around the world. C. citrinus was first introduced in Europe in the late 1700s by the botanist Joseph Banks, and they soon became popular garden plants.

These shrubs can be grown outdoors year-round in USDA Hardiness Zones 8b-11. In colder zones, they should be brought indoors for the winter.

Species in this genus are known for their vibrant spikes of red, crimson, white, or yellow flowers that resemble a brush like you might use to clean a bottle.

Leaves are pointy, small, and narrow, ranging in color from silvery to blue-green or green.

The flowering season is long with blooms continuing throughout the summer and attracting all sorts of pollinators, including hummingbirds, butterflies, bees, and wasps.

Shrubs tend to range between three and 15 feet in height. Some species can also be pruned and trained as trees up to 25 feet tall.

Bottlebrushes are closely related to paperbarks (Melaleuca spp.), which have similar flowers.

There is some debate as to whether Callistemon and Melaleuca should actually be considered separate genera, and botanists are currently studying these plants to determine the best classification.

In the early 2000s, most species previously categorized as Callistemon were merged with the Melaleuca genus, but this change is still controversial and not all botanists are in agreement.

Nonetheless, commercial nurseries and others tend to continue to label bottlebrushes as “callistemon.”

Propagation

If you are willing to put in some time, bottlebrush plants can be propagated from seed or by rooting stem cuttings.

From Seed

The small woody fruits stay attached to the plant for two to three years before releasing their seeds. Because of this, you can collect the fruits for seed propagation at any time of year.

Just look lower down on the branches for older fruits that have not yet opened.

For best results, choose ones that are at least a year old.

Place the fruit in a paper bag and set it in a warm, dry location. In a few days, the fruit will crack open, exposing the tiny seeds inside.

The seeds are best used fresh. Surface sow each seed in moist, well draining potting soil in a four-inch pot.

Cover with a plastic dome to retain moisture and place the container in a warm spot that receives bright, indirect light.

A temperature of 80°F is ideal and a heat mat works well for helping to maintain consistently warm temperatures.

Keep the potting soil moist until germination. You should see sprouts in about two weeks.

Once seedlings emerge, remove the plastic dome but continue to keep the soil moist in a location that is well lit.

When the seedlings reach three inches in height, they can be repotted into two-gallon pots.

Keep these indoors in a warm, bright location for about six to nine months.

If you live in an area that gets light frosts in the winter, wait until after the risk of frost has passed in the spring to transplant outdoors.

From Cuttings

Similar to starting from seed, the process of growing a bottlebrush from cuttings takes a little time.

In the summer, cut a six-inch stem with three or more pairs of leaves from a healthy plant. Remove all of the leaves except the pair at the tip, as well as any buds.

Choose a container that is at least six to eight inches in diameter and five inches deep. Fill it with a soilless mixture of half peat moss and half perlite.

Dip the cut end in powdered rooting hormone and plant it three inches deep in the pot. Multiple cuttings can be planted three inches apart in the same pot, if you wish.

Water until the planting medium is moist and tent with a clear plastic bag to retain moisture. Set the container in a warm place that receives at least six to eight hours of filtered light per day.

Check daily, and remove the plastic for a few minutes each day to allow for air circulation.

In four to six weeks, try tugging gently on the stem to check for the formation of roots. If the stem resists, that means roots have formed and your cutting is ready to repot in potting soil.

Repot rooted cuttings in individual containers in a peat-based potting soil mix and keep in a warm, sunny window.

These plants can grow in temperatures up to 90°F without problems, just be sure conditions always stay above 50°F.

Continue to grow the cuttings indoors until the following spring, when they can be planted outside. Be sure to wait until all risk of frost has passed to plant outdoors.

From Seedlings or Transplanting

It is always a good idea to harden off seedlings prior to planting outdoors. This process will help to reduce transplant shock, and plants will more readily adapt to outdoor conditions.

A week or two prior to planting, set seedlings outside in a protected location for about an hour.

Continue to do so each day as planting time approaches, slowly increasing the length of time spent outdoors and the amount of exposure to direct sunlight they receive.

Bottlebrush shrubs are widely available as nursery stock, and they can be planted in a similar fashion to established starts propagated at home.

After all threat of frost has passed, dig a hole that is just larger than the root ball. Set the plant in the hole and backfill with a mixture of garden soil and compost.

Surround the base of the plant with a few inches of mulch, such as shredded bark or pine needles, and water well. Keep the mulch an inch or two away from the stem.

Space three feet apart if planting multiple shrubs in one area.

How to Grow

These shrubs grow best in full sun. They will tolerate part shade, but won’t produce as many flowers. Aim for a location that receives at least six to eight hours of sun a day.

Loamy soil is best, though they aren’t picky about soil type. Just be sure to add some compost to the soil when you’re planting.

It is also important to choose a location with well draining soil. Mixing compost into the soil and mulching can help to improve drainage.

Young shrubs should be watered each week by slowly and deeply saturating the soil.

Once established, most species are drought tolerant. Water only in periods of prolonged drought when the soil is extremely dry. Avoid standing water, which can encourage rot.

Chemical fertilizer is not necessary, and an overabundance of nitrogen can lead to poor flowering.

Instead, pull back the mulch each spring and add a two-inch layer of fresh compost over the soil to the drip line.

These desert shrubs can survive very high temperatures, but conversely, they can not tolerate frost.

If freezing temperatures are predicted, wrap shrubs in a sheet or muslin cloth to protect them, but leave an opening at the top for ventilation to prevent powdery mildew and leaf spot.

Don’t worry if leaves experience some browning; they should recover as long as the branches survive.

While you may be able to protect them temporarily from cold snaps, these heat-loving plants won’t survive temperatures below freezing for long.

For growers in colder climates, plan to grow these shrubs in containers from the start, or pot up and move shrubs indoors for the winter.

Choose a large pot of at least 16 inches in diameter with good drainage. Fill with a peat-based potting soil mix. Adding a bit of sand to the mixture can help improve drainage.

Keep the pot in a bright indoor space, checking regularly and watering occasionally when the soil is dry. There is no need to fertilize over the winter.

Keep potted plants inside until after the last frost, at which point you can harden them off for a week or two, and then return them to a sunny spot outdoors.

Growing Tips

• Choose a location that receives at least six to eight hours of sun per day.
• Amend soil with compost prior to planting.
• Water deeply once a week until well established and then only during prolonged dry spells.
• Protect from cold snaps with a sheet or muslin cloth, and keep indoors during winter in Zones 8a or below.

Pruning and Maintenance

Bottlebrush can be grown as a shrub or pruned to have a single trunk and resemble a tree.

In late winter, you can cut the lower branches that are hanging down until you achieve the shape you desire. Trim stems individually, cutting just above a node on each branch.

Remove any suckers that sprout from the roots by cutting them back to the ground.

Pruning for general maintenance should be done in early spring or later summer.

Remove any dead or damaged branches and any branches that show signs of disease, and lightly thin interior branches to improve exposure to sunlight and airflow.

Bottlebrushes grown in pots can be pruned back heavily each year, to keep shrubs to a more manageable size.

Managing Pests and Disease

While this is a low maintenance plant, there are still a few pests and diseases to keep an eye out for.

Insects

Watch for pests that can cause damage to foliage, and if not addressed, can sometimes serve as vectors for disease spread.

Root-Knot Nematodes

A microscopic roundworm that feeds on roots, this parasitic nematode sometimes invades bottlebrush trees, leading to a slow decline in their health.

Look for swollen roots along with wilting and yellowing leaves. Plants will appear dry even when the soil is adequately moist.

While there isn’t a lot you can do to completely eradicate root-knot nematodes once they appear, thick mulch can help to suppress populations.

Add a few inches of shredded bark or pine needles around plants, leaving a couple of inches bare around the stem.

Providing good growing conditions along with proper watering and pruning will help to reduce the risk of issues with this pest.

Sawflies

Adult sawflies lay eggs on the leaves and then the emerging larvae – little caterpillars with pointed tails – congregate to feast. They can quickly decimate the foliage of an entire shrub.

The larvae can be removed by hand, and large infestations can often be stopped with an application of neem oil.

Scale

Scale insects gather in groups to feed on sap contained within twigs and leaves. They produce honeydew, a sticky substance that can attract ants and lead to sooty mold.

Apply a horticultural oil such as neem oil or an insecticidal soap to the foliage and bark to kill scale.

You can find more information on scale insects here.

Disease

There are several diseases to be aware of with bottlebrush shrubs. Most problems tend to occur when soil becomes waterlogged or foliage is too wet.

Powdery Mildew

Appearing as a white coating on foliage, powdery mildew is another condition brought on by excessive moisture.

Water only when necessary and avoid overhead watering.

There are several easy organic methods for controlling powdery mildew, such as applying milk or baking soda to the leaves.

You can learn more about natural methods for addressing powdery mildew here.

Root Rot

When shrubs are overwatered and soil becomes soggy, a number of different types of fungi can infect the root system.

Photosynthesis is inhibited as roots rot, causing foliage to yellow and eventually leading to plant death.

You can avoid root rot by planting in well-draining soil – and remember not to overwater! Potted shrubs may need to be moved to new containers with better drainage holes.

Sooty Mold

This fungal disease appears as dark spots on the bark and leaves.

It is often a byproduct of a scale infestation, as the fungi that causes it (Capnodium spp.) consumes the honeydew secreted by these insects, and you may notice a colony of ants milling around the infected site.

Sooty mold has the potential to block sunlight, inhibiting photosynthesis.

It can be prevented by addressing scale infestations. Read more about dealing with sooty mold in the garden here.

Twig Gall

Twig Gall is a fungal disease, caused by Sphaeropsis tumefaciens.

Also prevalent in waterlogged soil, the fungi cause excessive numbers of shoots to spring from the bark and branches appear to bloat.

Remove and dispose of impacted branches and avoid excessive watering.

Move infected potted shrubs to containers with better drainage holes or add sand to improve drainage.

Verticillium Wilt

This soilborne fungal disease causes foliage discoloration, wilting, and dieback of leaves and branches. Unfortunately, it is nearly impossible to rid from the soil once it’s there.

Promptly remove and destroy affected branches and foliage, and consider moving the shrub to a new location.

Best Uses

These eye-catching shrubs have many uses in the landscape, all the while attracting hummingbirds and other pollinators to the garden when they are in bloom!

Their dense foliage makes them ideal shrubs for hedges, with the added bonus of dazzling color.

Line a drive or walkway, or place them as foundation plants under a window.

Or place container plants as a focal point on a deck or patio.

Bottlebrushes also make lovely cut flowers.

The foliage gives off a lemony scent when rubbed, so if you are using some in a floral arrangement, you can pinch the leaves to add a pleasant aroma to the space.

Quick Reference Growing Guide

Plant Type:	Evergreen flowering ornamental shrub	Flower / Foliage Color:	Red, white, yellow/blue-green, green, silver
Native to:	Australia	Maintenance:	Low
Hardiness (USDA Zone):	8-11	Tolerance:	Heat, drought
Bloom Time / Season:	Spring and summer	Soil Type:	Loam
Exposure:	Full sun	Soil pH:	5.6-7.5
Spacing:	3 feet	Soil Drainage:	Well-draining
Planting Depth:	Depth of root ball, surface sow seeds	Attracts:	Hummingbirds, butterflies, bees, wasps
Time to Maturity:	2 years	Uses:	Borders, foundation plants, focal points, cut flowers
Height:	Up to 25 feet	Family:	Myrtaceae
Spread:	Up to 15 feet	Genus:	Callistemon
Water Needs:	Low	Species:	citrinus, salignus, viminalis
Common Pests:	Root-knot nematodes, sawflies, scale	Common Diseases:	Powdery mildew, root rot, sooty mold, twig gall, verticillium wilt

As beautiful as deer are, they can become a nuisance to gardeners and homeowners alike. They love to munch on shrubs, flowers, and other plants in gardens and landscapes. This can lead to considerable damage to your lawn and garden. It’s essential to take some measures to keep deer away from your landscaping. In this article, we’re going to discuss several effective ways to prevent deer from entering your garden and landscape.

Source

1. Fencing

The most effective way to keep deer out of your garden and landscaping is by putting up a fence. A fence helps create a physical barrier between your garden and the surrounding environment, which makes it harder for deer to enter. You can use different types of fences, including metal, wood, or plastic. Make sure that the fence is at least eight feet tall if you want to keep deer away. Fences with netting, electric wires, or motion-activated sprinklers can be particularly effective.

2. Deer Repellent Sprays

Another effective way to keep deer away from your landscaping is by using deer repellent sprays. These sprays contain natural ingredients such as mint, garlic, and vinegar, which help deter deer from munching on your plants. The scent of the sprays is unpleasant to deer, and they will quickly learn to avoid the area. You can buy deer repellent sprays from your local garden store or online.

3. Plant Deer Resistant Plants

Deers are selective about the plants they eat, so planting deer-resistant plants is a smart idea. These plants are typically those with thick leaves, prickly thorns, strong smells, and unpalatable tastes. Some deer-resistant plants that you can consider for your landscaping include:

• Daffodils
• Tulips
• Alliums
• Peonies
• Hyacinths
• Lavender
• Catmint
• Salvia
• Astilbe
• Foxgloves

It’s worth noting that planting deer-resistant plants may not keep deer away entirely, but it can reduce the amount of damage they do to your garden.

4. Add Sound To Your Yard

Loud noises and sound in general can be an effective method for keeping deer at bay. These include things like chimes, radio noise, or even empty cans hanging from trees. They work by scaring the deer away when they approach your landscaping. 

5. Keep Your Garden Clean

Deer are attracted to gardens with food sources, such as fruits, vegetables, and flowers. To reduce the risk of deer damage to your landscape, it’s important to keep your garden clean. This means removing any fallen fruits and vegetables from the ground and regularly pruning shrubs and plants. You should also keep your garden free from debris and provide deer with no food sources

6. Use Deer Netting

If you have young trees or shrubs in your landscaping, then deer netting is a great way to protect them from damage. Deer netting is made of durable mesh material that can be placed over the tops of trees or wrapped around shrubs. It’s an effective barrier that prevents deer from accessing your plants while still allowing sunlight and water to pass through.

7. Alternate Landscaping Plants

Another way to prevent deer damage is to alternate the plants in your landscaping. While deer may enjoy some plants, they may dislike others. You can try planting some of these “deer candy” plants around the perimeter of your garden to prevent deer from entering. Within the garden, plant a variety of plants, some of which are resistant to deer browsing.

8. Apply Homemade Remedies

There are many different homemade remedies that you can use to keep deer away from your landscaping. These include things like garlic sprays, hot pepper sprays, and human hair around the edges of your garden. These remedies help to deter deer by making your garden smell unpleasant to them. They can be easily made using household ingredients and are environmentally friendly.

One example of a homemade spray that can deter deer is a garlic-based spray. This can be made easily at home with just a few ingredients:

Ingredients:

• 2 whole bulbs of garlic
• 1 quart of water
• 1 tablespoon of liquid dish soap 
• spray bottle

Instructions:

• Peel the garlic cloves and chop them into small pieces.
• Add the chopped garlic to a quart of water in a pot.
• Bring the water to a boil and then let it simmer for 20-30 minutes.
• Remove the pot from the heat and let it cool.
• Strain the garlic pieces from the water using a fine mesh strainer or cheesecloth.
• Add 1 tablespoon of liquid dish soap to the garlic-infused water and stir (the dish soap helps the spray adhere to the plant leaves)
• Pour the mixture into a spray bottle and spray it onto the leaves, stems, and surrounding areas of the plants you want to protect.

9. Scare Deer With Movement

Deer can be scared off by even the slightest movement. Adding items to your yard that can be moved by wind can help deter deer. Hanging CDs from trees will often catch the light of the sun and can easily scare off an unsuspecting deer. Scarecrows that shimmy in a breeze can also be enough movement to frighten off deer. 

10. Create A Fragrant Barrier

Plant low-growing, fragrant plants as a barrier to deer crossing into your planted area. When stepped on, certain types of plants will release a strong scent that can be unpleasant to deer. Some examples include creeping thyme, lavender, and mint. 

Deer Proof vs. Deer Resistant 

It is important to note that there is no such thing as deer-proofing your garden or landscaping. Even the tallest fence can be conquered by a deer if it is hungry enough. It is important to instead focus on using a combination of the methods listed above to create an environment that most deer will deem unpleasant. Alternating these methods from season to season can help deter even the most determined deer. 

Conclusion

Deer are beautiful creatures that can cause significant damage to your garden and landscaping if left unchecked. By using some of the methods outlined in this article, you can keep deer away from your landscaping and protect your investment. Remember, prevention is key, and it’s easier to prevent damage than repair damage. Start using these techniques today, and you will have a healthy and beautiful garden in no time!

Author Bio:

Anna Ohler is an avid plant hobbyist and owner/operator of Bright Lane Gardens, a boutique plant nursery in Northern Michigan. With over a decade of experience in gardening and landscaping, she takes every opportunity to share her knowledge on all things plant related. With a keen focus on integrating home landscaping into our natural ecosystems, Anna has dedicated several years to growing her knowledge of native plants and organic growing methods. 

Often the key to keeping roses happy, healthy, and looking their best is proper pruning. This is done using specific techniques and timing, depending on the type of rose you have. The following is a simplified way to approach rose maintenance that won’t take a blueprint or countless hours to accomplish.

Deadhead spent flowers on rebloomers

For roses that repeat their flower show, deadhead spent blossoms to keep them looking clean and to encourage rebloom. For onetime- only bloomers that develop hips, keep the spent flowers on the bush so that fruit can form to provide fall/winter interest and food for wildlife. Some roses—and eight of those mentioned here—are “selfcleaning,” meaning they neatly drop their spent petals on their own. Some varieties, however, hang onto dead flowers. (In this article, only ‘Sir Thomas Lipton’ has that habit.) It is best to deadhead these to keep their bushes looking tidy.

Concentrate on tidying and tying with ramblers and climbers

In early spring before growth commences, trim out any dead wood on rambling and climbing roses to keep the plants looking neat. In late summer and fall, tie the vigorous new shoots (growing horizontally outward) to your support system of choice. This encourages blooms along those new branches, keeps their thorn-covered stems at bay, and prevents the new branches from being blown around and damaged by cold winter winds in the coming months.

Cut out a third of the canes on shrub roses

In late winter or early spring, remove at ground level approximately one-third of the oldest and weakest canes to encourage growth of vigorous new canes (left). If space is at a premium, you can also keep shrub roses in bounds by shortening the remaining canes by roughly one-third (right). This approach can help to encourage larger blossoms too.

—Scott Warner and David Kirchner battle wind, salt spray, and sandy soil in order to garden in North Truro, Massachusetts

Illustrations: Jessica Daigle

Roses are quintessential garden treasures that evoke romantic images of Sissinghurst and other iconic British landscapes. Here in the United States, however, they have developed a bit of a bad reputation. Many gardeners have an outdated impression of roses (based on memories of their grandparents’ beds of hybrid teas) and consider them to be high-maintenance, disease-prone divas that require endless fuss to keep them blooming well and looking decent. But this doesn’t have to be the case! There are many well-behaved, beautiful-smelling roses that require relatively little care to look fantastic.

When we planted our garden, we knew we wanted to integrate roses because they were a natural fit with our cottage-style borders. We were particularly interested in heirloom varieties because of their fragrance, disease resistance, and old-fashioned charm, but we eventually included some species roses and modern hybrids as well. All told, we’ve experimented with more than 100 varieties of roses over the last two decades. We’ve culled the poor performers (and some have culled themselves)—those that succumbed to disease and others that simply failed to thrive. Currently our garden includes around 75 different varieties. The following are nine of our favorite roses that you’ll never regret planting.

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3 Shrubby Options with Excellent Form

This category serves as a catch-all for several different types of roses. Most share one trait: a well-defined—not too big or too tall—habit.

‘Claire Austin’ English rose

Name: Rosa ‘Claire Austin’

Zones: 5–9

Size: 4 feet tall and 3 feet wide

Conditions: Full sun to partial shade; average, well-drained soil

Key attributes: Unique fragrance; perpetual bloom (into late fall); great for cutting

We grow about a half-dozen varieties of David Austin hybrid roses primarily for cutting; of these, ‘Claire Austin’ is the top performer. It stays perfectly healthy and suffers no winter dieback in our Zone 7 garden. The fully double flowers are white complemented by light, creamy yellow undertones. This plant comes into bloom a bit later in the rose season (late June on Cape Cod), and then the display continues nonstop—through the end of November if the weather cooperates. Where space allows, shrub roses the size and scale of ‘Claire Austin’ look best when planted in groups of at least three. David Austin describes the fragrance of this rose as “myrrh.” We can’t say we know what myrrh smells like, but to us the scent is of a classic old rose with a spicy anise or licorice overlay.

‘Ispahan’ damask rose

Name: R. ‘Ispahan’

Zones: 5–9

Size: 6 feet tall and 4 feet wide

Conditions: Full sun; average, well-drained soil

Key attributes: Heavy fragrance; good for cutting; nearly thorn-free; minimal pruning requirements

This is an antique variety that likely originated in the Middle East, where damask roses (hybrids derived from R. gallica and R. moschata) are cultivated for petal and oil production. The impres sive flower display of ‘Ispahan’ lasts for nearly a month, with the entire bush becoming covered in bright pink blossoms that are deliciously perfumed with the classic “old rose” scent. ‘Ispahan’ is completely disease-free, vigorous, and tough as nails. It forms a large but well-behaved shrub, with branches that can bend down a bit under the weight of its flowers. Because it is such a shapely shrub, ‘Ispahan’ is a great addition to a mixed border, where you could underplant it with billowy perennials such as violet-blue catmint (Nepeta spp. and cvs., Zones 3–8).

‘Sir Thomas Lipton’ rugosa rose

Name: R. rugosa* ‘Sir Thomas Lipton’

Zones: 3–8

Size: 6 feet tall and 4 feet wide

Conditions: Full sun; average to poor, well-drained soil

Key attributes: Strong spicy fragrance; perpetual bloom; well-suited for a hedge; exceptional hardiness

‘Sir Thomas Lipton’ is indestructible—hardy to Zone 3 and completely free of disease. It begins to bloom in early summer, smothering itself in clusters of powerfully fragrant white flowers that are vibrant in daylight and seem to glow in the summer twilight. Most roses reveal their fragrance only at close range, but ‘Sir Thomas Lipton’ wafts its scent far out into the garden. Once the first flush is over, this shrubby rose takes a short rest and then begins a rebloom that reliably continues up to the first frost. As with all hybrid rugosa roses, ‘Sir Thomas Lipton’ grows well in lean soil that is on the sandy side. In fact, it can perform poorly in overly rich conditions, so it’s best not to fertilize this tough customer. It benefits from a hard pruning in late winter to remove old canes and shorten those that remain. Periodic deadheading of spent flowers keeps the shrub looking good and encourages a strong, consistent rebloom.

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3 Vigorous Ramblers that Don’t Quit

This class of roses is the biggest of the bunch. Most plants reach upwards of 20 (or more) feet tall, and their flower power is unbeatable.

‘Paul’s Himalayan Musk’ rambling rose

Name: R. ‘Paul’s Himalayan Musk’

Zones: 4–9

Size: 25 feet tall and 25 feet wide

Conditions: Full sun; average, well-drained soil

Key attributes: Incredible vigor; strong fragrance; perfect health

Best described as a very vigorous rose, ‘Paul’s Himalayan Musk’ can quickly grow to 20 feet high. Although not a repeat bloomer, it is spectacular in late spring when it is smothered in sprays of small, light pink blossoms. When in full bloom, the fragrance produced by what must be thousands of individual flowers is intoxicating. ‘Paul’s Himalayan Musk’ is best used to cover an expansive wall, to grow up into a sizable and strong-limbed tree, or to train along a high fence. Because of its healthy vigor, easen of culture, and magnificence in flower, we have chosen—with no regrets—to replace fussier, disease-prone climbers with this spectacular rambler.

‘Albertine’ rambling rose

Name: R. ‘Albertine’

Zones: 5–9

Size: 10 to 15 feet tall and 15 feet wide

Conditions: Full sun; average, well-drained soil

Key attributes: Extremely fragrant; lengthy bloom period; unique color Seemingly ubiquitous in British gardens but less commonly encountered in the United States, ‘Albertine’ is far more contained in size than many ramblers. We shied away from this rose at first, put off by reports of it being “prone to mildew” and nervous about how its color (described in some sources as “copper-pink”) would blend in with the cooler tones that dominate our June garden. But we’ve found it to be completely healthy, and its soft, salmon-pink flowers easily integrate with almost any hue. We have interwoven ‘Albertine’ along a wall with the shell-pink rose ‘New Dawn’ (R. ‘New Dawn’, Zones 5–9). ‘Albertine’ is one of the three most fragrant roses we grow; the scent on a warm June morning is a highlight of the gardening year. Its color shows particularly well against a stone wall or aged cedar shingles.

‘Rambling Rector’ rambling rose

Name: R. ‘Rambling Rector’

Zones: 5–9

Size: 30 feet tall and 25 feet wide

Conditions: Full sun to partial shade; average, well-drained soil

Key attributes: Size (where size is needed); showy hips; perfect health

The largest of the roses featured here, ‘Rambling Rector’ is a massive plant that can easily climb 30 feet into a supporting tree. This is not a rose for small spaces. In late spring it is covered with clusters of heavily fragrant, single white flowers that are very attractive to pollinators. The blooms will cascade like a fountain over supporting tree branches. A mature specimen of ‘Rambling Rector’ in full bloom is an impressive sight indeed. This rose produces multitudes of bright red hips, which are incredibly showy from fall into winter and provide an abundant food source for hungry birds.

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3 Oddballs that Deserve More Love

Sometimes a rose just doesn’t fit neatly into any particular box but is still a worthy garden addition. These plants will have garden visitors asking, “What is that beautiful variety?”

Father Hugo rose

Name R. xanthina f. hugonis

Zones: 4–9

Size: 6 feet tall and 5 feet wide

Conditions: Full sun; average, well-drained soil

Key attributes: Very early bloomer; beautiful foliage; easy culture

Father Hugo rose is valued for its super-early bloom (mid-May on Cape Cod) and soft primrose yellow single flowers that are a perfect color complement to the pastel pinks and blues of the late spring garden. Its scent is light but sweet. Father Hugo is easy to please and tolerant of poor soil and drought. It forms a large, upright, manageable shrub that requires no real pruning and looks great year-round. Its foliage is particularly beautiful—finely cut and fernlike—and always completely healthy. In fall, the leaves turn a warm golden-yellow that contrasts nicely with Father Hugo’s purplish-black hips. In winter its bare, reddish-brown canes look handsome in the low winter sunlight.

‘Darlow’s Enigma’ musk rose

Name: R. ‘Darlow’s Enigma’

Zones: 5–9

Size: 9 feet tall and 7 feet wide when grown as a shrub, and up to 15 feet tall when grown as a climber

Condition: Full sun to partial shade; average, well-drained soil

Key attributes: Constant bloomer; strong fragrance; shade tolerance; informal habit

‘Darlow’s Enigma’ is a rugged, versatile, relaxed, and natural-looking rose. It bears clusters of small, white, powerfully fragrant flowers with bright yellow centers in great abundance. The bloom show begins in late spring and keeps occurring throughout summer. It can either be grown as a large shrub or trained as a climber. ‘Darlow’s Enigma’ is known to be particularly shade tolerant. We use it as a climber on a north wall, partnered with a trumpet honeysuckle (Lonicera × brownii ‘Dropmore Scarlet’, Zones 3–9). We also grow it elsewhere as a large shrub, where it thrives under the shade of a mature tree. Its branches form a thick, protective tangle where a pair of catbirds makes a nest every year.

‘Prosperity’ hybrid musk rose

Name: R. ‘Prosperity’

Zones: 6–9

Size: 6 feet tall and 5 feet wide

Conditions: Full sun to partial shade; average, well-drained soil

Key attributes: Early bloomer; attractive red spring foliage; white flowers that show well in the evening; steady repeat blooms until frost

Hybrid musk is a class of roses developed in England in the early 1900s that are characterized by their health, heady fragrance, and dependable rebloom. Bred in 1919, ‘Prosperity’ bears sprays of pure white, semi-double flowers accented by bright yellow stamens that repeat throughout summer and into fall. It forms a mediumsize shrub, wide as it is tall, and so is best used at the back of a border, along a fence, or as a stand-alone specimen. The emerging foliage of ‘Prosperity’ is a beautiful shade of burgundy, which looks great contrasted with the fresh greens of spring. It also comes into bloom on the early side, ushering in the June rose season.

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A “rambler” and a “climber” aren’t the same

It’s important to understand the distinctions between these two popular rose categories.

• Ramblers are more vigorous than climbers. They grow faster and get much bigger.
• Massive ramblers are perfect for covering a wall, climbing into a tree, or being trained along a fence. Want a rose to place on a trellis or a tuteur? A climber is the better choice.
• With rare exceptions, ramblers flower just once, while a wide variety of climbers rebloom during the season.
• Rambler flowers are smaller than those of climbers, and they are most often carried in numerous clusters.

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—Scott Warner and David Kirchner battle wind, salt spray, and sandy soil in order to garden in North Truro, Massachusetts.

Photos, except where noted: Danielle Sherry

Sources

Spring Container Design

Pastel colors pop in the understory of this four-season woodland container design

An elegant, simple rectangular container made of resin elevates this design. The soft green foliage of a weeping larch balances the width of the container by cascading over an evergreen ‘Silver Run’ leucothoe, which is changing slowly from its winter burgundy hue back to its light-green-and-white summer variegation. Peeping through the leaves of the leucothoe are the downward-facing delicate flowers of ‘Little Lanterns’ columbine and the bell-like blooms of ‘Rote Glocke’ pasque flower. And it wouldn’t be spring without the pastel shades offered by a yellow-flowered late tulip, chartreuse ‘Aureola’ Japanese forest grass, and pale lavender ‘Betty’ moss phlox. Its purple flowers are echoed by the multitoned ‘Mountain Lady’ grape hyacinth.

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Centerpiece woody: 1. Weeping larch (Larix decidua ‘Pendula’, Zones 2–8)

2. ‘Aureola’ Japanese forest grass (Hakonechloa macra ‘Aureola’, Zones 5–9) 3. ‘Martha Herman’ Scotch heather (Calluna vulgaris ‘Martha Herman’, Zones 4–9) 4. ‘Mountain Lady’ grape hyacinth (Muscari ‘Mountain Lady’, Zones 3–8) 5. ‘Betty’ moss phlox (Phlox subulata ‘Betty’, Zones 3–9) 6. Late tulip (Tulipa tarda, Zones 3–9) 7. ‘Little Lanterns’ columbine (Aquilegia canadensis ‘Little Lanterns’, Zones 3–8) 8. ‘Rote Glocke’ pasque flower (Pulsatilla vulgaris ‘Rote Glocke’ syn. ‘Red Clock’, Zones 4–8) 9.‘Silver Run’ leucothoe (Leucothoe fontanesiana ‘Silver Run’, Zones 5–8)

 

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Summer

Warmer weather calls for some hot hues

A color scheme of green, red, white, and a touch of yellow creates a summer splash. The bright flowers of ‘Snow Fairy’ balloon flower and Summer Wave® Bouquet White wishbone flower draw the eye immediately. The joyously red begonia cascades over the side of the container and mingles with the other plants. ‘Marrakesh’ coleus gives balance to the other side of the container and pulls the different colors together in its red-and-light-yellow foliage.

– Removed: These spring plants start to lose their luster by the time summer rolls around. ‘Mountain Lady’ grape hyacinth ‘Betty’ moss phlox late tulip ‘Little Lanterns’ columbine and ‘Rote Glocke’ pasque flower

✓ Kept: The interesting foliage of these plants demanded they be kept. Weeping larch ‘Aureola’ Japanese forest grass ‘Martha Herman’ Scotch heather ‘Silver Run’ leucothoe

+ Added: 5. ‘Obsidian’ heuchera (Heuchera ‘Obsidian’, Zones 4–9) 6. ‘Marrakesh’ coleus (Plectranthus scutellarioides ‘Marrakesh’, Zones 10–11) 7. ‘Snow Fairy’ balloon flower (Platycodon grandiflorus ‘Snow Fairy’, Zones 3–8) 8. Illumination® Scarlet begonia (Begonia cv., Zones 9–11) 9. Hiller™ Sunburst lysimachia (Lysimachia christinae ‘Hillyssun’, Zones 7–11) 10. Summer Wave® Bouquet White wishbone flower (Torenia cv., annual)

 

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Fall

Fiery foliage is offset by dainty flowers

You won’t have to travel to Vermont for fall color with this container around. As the deciduous weeping larch turns golden, a native bluestar echoes the change with bright yellow-orange foliage. ‘True Blue’ gentian has darker leaves, which are offset by its dark blue flowers. ‘Karmina’ geranium and ‘Brilliance’ autumn fern are just beginning to turn red, extending the show. When we think of fall, our native wildflowers shine. ‘Snow Flurry’ heath aster is covered with star-shaped blooms. ‘Aureola’ Japanese forest grass and ‘Everillo’ sedge add that grassy texture that screams autumn.

– Removed:  These annuals don’t stand up to the fall chill and were removed to make way for more seasonal players. The faded Scotch heather was also swapped out for a sedge. ‘Martha Herman’ Scotch heather ‘Marrakesh’ coleus ‘Snow Fairy’ balloon flower Illumination® Scarlet begonia Hiller™ Sunburst lysimachia and Summer Wave® Bouquet White wishbone flower

✓ Kept: If anything, these plants with striking foliage look even better in fall. Weeping larch ‘Aureola’ Japanese forest grass ‘Obsidian’ heuchera ‘Silver Run’ leucothoe

+ Added: 5. ‘Everillo’ sedge (Carex oshimensis ‘Everillo’, Zones 5–9) 6. ‘Matrona’ sedum (Hylotelephium telephium ‘Matrona’, Zones 3–9) 7. ‘True Blue’ gentian (Gentiana ‘True Blue’, Zones 4–7) 8. ‘Karmina’ geranium (Geranium × cantabrigiense ‘Karmina’, Zones 5–8) 9. ‘Brilliance’ autumn fern 10. Willow leaf bluestar (Amsonia tabernaemontana var. salicifolia, Zones 3–9) 11. ‘Snow Flurry’ heath aster (Symphyotrichum ericoides ‘Snow Flurry’, Zones 3–9)

 

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Winter

Bright evergreen foliage puts texture on display

Not every container needs an evergreen as the anchor. By now the weeping larch is bare, but its twisting and curling stems are still putting on a show. Below, ‘Silver Run’ leucothoe has switched back to burgundy. Small conifers of various colors and textures fill the container with festive greens. Yellow ‘Skylands’ Oriental spruce and ‘Everillo’ sedge contrast with ‘Blue Star’ singleseed juniper. Above the scene, cuttings of redtwig dogwood and winterberry make merry.

– Removed: These plants were taken out to make way for some sturdier and more seasonal conifers. ‘Aureola’ Japanese forest grass ‘Obsidian’ heuchera ‘Matrona’ sedum ‘True Blue’ gentian ‘Karmina’ geranium ‘Brilliance’ autumn fern Willow leaf bluestar and ‘Snow Flurry’ heath aster

✓ Kept: The weeping larch and sedge will retain their shape over winter, while the leucothoe shows its best foliage color late in the season. Weeping larch ‘Everillo’ sedge ‘Silver Run’ leucothoe

+ Added: 4. Limber pine branches (Pinus flexilis, Zones 4–7) 5. Boxwood 6. Winterberry branches (Ilex verticillata, Zones 3–9) 7. ‘Skylands’ Oriental spruce (Picea orientalis ‘Skylands’, Zones 4–7) 8. Japanese cedar branches 9. ‘Blue Star’ singleseed juniper (Juniperus squamata ‘Blue Star’, Zones 4–8) 10. Redtwig dogwood branches (Cornus sericea, Zones 3–7) 11. ‘Berkshire’ juniper (Juniperus communis ‘Berkshire’, Zones 3–8)

 

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Spring Container Design

Pale purple blooms tower over a sweet and simple spring display

Not all containers with trees and shrubs need to be large. The lavender spring flowers of this dwarf rhodie play off of the purple-black sheen of black mondo grass. A bright yellow-green sweetgrass adds color contrast and visual balance to the other side of the container. ‘Cameo’ rue anemone is one of my personal spring favorites with its dainty blue-green foliage and double pinkish white flowers. Toward the back of the container, a heuchera and ‘Winter Glow’ bergenia add height. Bergenia’s shiny, leathery leaves provide an evergreen contrast to finer textures in the composition.

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Centerpiece woody 1. ‘Purple Gem’ rhododendron (Rhododendron ‘Purple Gem’, Zones 5–8)

2. Irish moss (Sagina subulata, Zones 4–8) 3. Black mondo grass (Ophiopogon planiscapus ‘Nigrescens’, Zones 6–9) 4. ‘Ogon’ sweet flag (Acorus gramineus ‘Ogon’, Zones 5–9) 5. ‘Winter Glow’ bergenia (Bergenia cordifolia ‘Winter Glow’ syn. ‘Winterglut’, Zones 4–8) 6. ‘Apple Crisp’ heuchera (Heuchera ‘Apple Crisp’, Zones 4–9) 7. ‘Cameo’ rue anemone (Anemonella thalictroides ‘Cameo’, Zones 4–8) 8. Glory-of-the-snow (Chionodoxa forbesii, Zones 3–8)

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Summer Container Update

Bright pink contrasts with soothing greens

As summer arrived, ‘Cameo’ rue anemone was swapped out for aquamarine. The circular, pale green leaves cascade over the side of the container and echo its pock-marked texture that looks a bit like water rushing over stones. A mini hosta in full bloom peeks out from underneath a bold ‘Plum Crazy’ wood sorrel, which becomes the instant focal point of the container with its pink leaves and little yellow flowers. The greens and pinks contrast well with the turquoise and brown container.

– Removed:  These spring ephemerals start to fade once summer arrives. ‘Cameo’ rue anemone and glory-of-the-snow	✓ Kept:  Most of the elements in this container will go strong throughout the growing season. ‘Purple Gem’ rhododendron Irish moss Black mondo grass ‘Ogon’ sweet flag ‘Winter Glow’ bergenia Apple Crisp’ heuchera
+ Added: 7. Aquamarine (Pilea glauca, Zones 9–11) 8. ‘Plum Crazy’ wood sorrel (Oxalis spiralis subsp. vulcanicola ‘Plum Crazy’, Zones 8–11) 9. ‘School Mouse’ hosta (Hosta ‘School Mouse’, Zones 3–9)

 

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Fall Container Updates

Changing foliage colors add new interest

Fall brings the addition of an autumn fern, which turns red late in the season and maintains semi-evergreen foliage over winter. A variegated October daphne sports yellow, pink, and green foliage along with dainty pink flowers. It complements the still-burgundy wood sorrel well. ‘Winter Glow’ bergenia is starting to turn red, and ‘Ogon’ sweet flag is fading to white, adding renewed interest from the plants that remained from past seasons.

– Removed: These plants would have looked good in fall but were removed to make way for new introductions. ‘Apple Crisp’ heuchera, aquamarine and ‘School Mouse’ hosta	✓ Kept: Many of these players are performing even better than they did before, with more robust growth or changing leaf colors. ‘Purple Gem’ rhododendron Irish moss Black mondo grass ‘Ogon’ sweet flag‘ ‘Winter Glow’ bergenia ‘Plum Crazy’ wood sorrel
+ Added: 7. ‘Brilliance’ autumn fern (Dryopteris erythrosora ‘Brilliance’, Zones 5–8) 8. Variegated October daphne (Hylotelephium sieboldii ‘Mediovariegatum’, Zones 3–9)

 

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Winter

For festive flair, add birds and berries

With its brilliant red berries, English holly brings holiday cheer. Japanese cedar and paper birch branches add height and fill in gaps from the faded perennials that were taken out. To add extra interest, a pair of decorative chickadees and a small nest were added. Throughout the four seasons, ‘Purple Gem’ rhododendron, black mondo grass, and ‘Winter Glow’ bergenia have grown and played different supporting roles while maintaining interesting foliage and structure.

– Removed: These plants were removed to make way for the bird’s nest. ‘Plum Crazy’ wood sorrel and variegated October daphne	✓ Kept: The rhododendron and most of the accompanying perennials won’t melt over winter and will continue to provide interest. ‘Purple Gem’ rhododendron Irish moss Black mondo grass ‘Ogon’ sweet flag ‘Winter Glow’ bergenia ‘Brilliance’ autumn fern
+ Added: 7. Japanese cedar branches (Cryptomeria japonica, Zones 5–9) 8. Paper birch branches 9. English holly branches** (Ilex aquifolium*, Zones 6–9)

 

Back to collection

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*Invasive Alert:

English holly (Ilex aquifolium)

This plant is considered invasive in AK, CA, and OR.

Please visit invasiveplantatlas.org for more information.

Everyone loves a beautiful container garden, but they don’t love having to scrap the whole planting after a couple of months to install a new one. What if a container design could last the whole year with just some simple updates?

Such a dream is possible if you start with a woody plant as an anchor. This tree or shrub gives each pot foundational structure throughout the year. With each change of season, herbaceous perennials and annuals—and even some smaller woodies—are added, which contribute pops of color, form, and texture.

Keep in mind that light and watering requirements need to be compatible for the plants in each container. Some plants with multiseason ­appeal may remain, while others are discarded or planted out in the garden. Changing out ephemeral elements that look tired or no longer add seasonal sparkle keeps the containers fresh.

This approach offers endless possibilities of different combinations. Whether used for screening, a pop of color on a porch, or filling an awkward niche, these four-season container designs continue to be strong regardless of the changing seasons.

Learn more:

Growing Woody Plants in Containers

Plants for Year-Round Containers

 

 

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Caitilin Driscoll has been a horticulturist for twenty-five years. She’s currently a landscape designer and the perennial manager for Shakespeare’s Garden, a nursery in Brookfield, Connecticut. Caitilin designed these containers with Kasia Fancher, co-owner of Shakespeare’s Garden.

Photos: Diana Koehm

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  Article

  This skinny, upright container is perfect for tight spaces in full sun

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  Design

  This small container can be reworked each season to bring its best qualities forward

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  Design

  A design that evolves over time looks gorgeous in an elegant but simple rectangular container

Spring Container Design

Colorful bulbs sing out the season

Japanese umbrella pine’s glossy, whorled leaves complement the variegated gray-green and white of ‘Silver Swan’ euphorbia and Feather Falls™ sedge. The curling foliage of the sedge hugs the top of the container and echoes the bold horizontal lines running across the pot, which is softened by a mounding rock cress. Sapphire blue flowers of ‘Grace Ward’ lithodora add a pop of spring color, and they contrast with ‘Fireball’ geum and the airy blooms of Forever® Red heuchera. To signal that spring is here, a daffodil and tulip stand tall in the center of the display.

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Centerpiece woody: 1.Japanese umbrella pine (Sciadopitys verticillata, Zones 5–9)

2. ‘Silver Swan’ euphorbia (Euphorbia characias ‘Silver Swan’ syn. ‘Wilcott’, Zones 8–10) 3. Feather Falls™ sedge (Carex oshimensis ‘ET CRX01’, Zones 5–9) 4. Forever® Red heuchera (Heuchera ‘TNHEUFR’, Zones 4–9) 5. ‘Sunny Side Up’ daffodil (Narcissus ‘Sunny Side Up’, Zones 3–8) 6. ‘Striped Crown’ tulip (Tulipa ‘Striped Crown’, Zones 3–8) 7. ‘Fireball’ geum (Geum ‘Fireball’, Zones 5–9) 8.‘Grace Ward’ lithodora (Lithodora diffusa ‘Grace Ward’, Zones 6–8) 9. Variegated rock cress (Arabis alpina subsp. caucasica ‘Variegata’, Zones 3–8)

 

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Summer Container Update

With warm weather comes bold primary colors

A little editing is all this container needs to swing into summer with fresh blooms. By now, Feather Falls™ sedge is cascading over the side of the container, complemented by a long silver dichondra. Vibrantly colored flowers from annuals such as Angelface® Super Blue summer snapdragon and Sunbini® creeping zinnia contrast with the bold foliage of Magilla® purple perilla.

– Removed: These plants have most of their interest in spring and were removed to make way for summer stars. ‘Sunny Side Up’ daffodil, ‘Striped Crown’ tulip, ‘Fireball’ geum, ‘Grace Ward’ lithodora, and variegated rock cress

✓ Kept: Now that they are starting to fill out, these plants look even better. Japanese umbrella pine, ‘Silver Swan’ euphorbia, Feather Falls™ sedge, and Forever® Red heuchera

+ Added:

5. Angelface® Super Blue summer snapdragon (Angelonia angustifolia ‘ANSUBLU021’, Zones 10–11)

6. Magilla® purple perilla** (Perilla frutescens* ‘Balmagpurp’, annual)

7. Sunbini® creeping zinnia (Sanvitalia procumbens ‘DSANTLAG’, annual)

8. ‘Silver Falls’ dichondra (Dichondra argentea ‘Silver Falls’, Zones 10–11)

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Fall

Cool purples make an understated but elegant display

By gently removing most of the annuals and adding several perennials that are peaking with flowers or sporting true fall color, this container extends into cool weather. The tall, burgundy fall foliage of ‘Storm Cloud’ bluestar hides gaps in the base of the Japanese umbrella pine. Its colors blend with the pink single-cupped flowers of ‘September Charm’ Japanese anemone. The elegant, orchid-like lavender blooms and dainty foliage of ‘Tojen’ toad lily cascade over a deeply colored Forever® Purple heuchera.

 

– Removed: Annuals like these have faded significantly by the time fall arrives, and the heuchera got crowded out. Angelface® Super Blue summer snapdragon Magilla® purple perilla Sunbini® creeping zinnia ‘Silver Falls’ dichondra and Forever® Red heuchera

✓ Kept: These foliage superstars maintain their appearance with the changing seasons. Japanese umbrella pine ‘Silver Swan’ euphorbia Feather Falls™ sedge

+ Added:

4. ‘Storm Cloud’ bluestar (Amsonia tabernaemontana ‘Storm Cloud’, Zones 4–9)

5. ‘September Charm’ Japanese anemone (Anemone × hybrida ‘September Charm’, Zones 4–8)

6. ‘Tojen’ toad lily (Tricyrtis ‘Tojen’, Zones 5–9)

7. Forever® Purple heuchera (Heuchera ‘TNHEUFP’, Zones 4–9)

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Winter

White and green are all the sparkle you need

This design captures the feeling of a snow-covered woodland walk. The white and green of ‘Silver Swan’ euphorbia and Feather Falls® sedge are echoed by new introductions. Bright paper birch logs and white snow­berries were added along with pine cones for strong vertical elements, and the blue-green cascading branches of eastern white pine and blue spruce soften the container’s edge.

– Removed: These perennials will just get wet and mushy over winter. ‘Storm Cloud’ bluestar ‘September Charm’ Japanese anemone ‘Tojen’ toad lily and Forever® Purple heuchera

✓ Kept: While the euphorbia and sedge will die back for the season, their faded foliage will remain strong structural elements until spring. Japanese umbrella pine, ‘Silver Swan’ euphorbia, Feather Falls™ sedge

+ Added:

4. Paper birch logs (Betula papyrifera, Zones 2–7)

5. Snowberry branches (Symphoricarpos albus, Zones 3–7)

6. Blue spruce branches (Picea pungens, Zones 2–8)

7. Boxwood branches (Buxus sempervirens, Zones 5–8)

8. Eastern white pine branches (Pinus strobus, Zones 3–8)

9. Pine cones

 

Back to collection

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*Invasive Alert:

Purple perilla (Perilla frutescens)

This plant is considered invasive in TN, VA, and WV.

Please visit invasiveplantatlas.org for more information.

Little kids have Christmas. Gardeners have spring. To anyone that loves plants, this is the most wonderful time of the year. As warmer weather approaches, gardeners across the U.S. eagerly anticipate the first day they can browse the colorful rows of plants at their local garden center or nursery and fill their wagons with new goodies for their garden. But, if you’re trying to avoid maxing out your credit cards, it’s a good idea to make a plant shopping list.

To help you make better, smarter shopping decisions this spring, we asked regional experts across the country to pick a handful of plants that no gardener in their region would regret buying. Any of these perennials, shrubs, and trees would be a valuable investment in your garden and worthy of a spot on your spring shopping list.

Find great shopping-list plants for the Northwest below, and listen to this episode of the Let’s Argue About Plants podcast to find even more plant recommendations.

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1. ‘Snow Fever’ hellebore

Name: Helleborus argutifolius ‘Snow Fever’

Zones: 7–9

Size: 18 to 24 inches tall and wide

Conditions: Partial shade; evenly moist, well-drained soil

Native range: Corsica

This hellebore is remarkable for its showy leaves and winter flowers. Its stiff, speckled foliage forms a tidy textural mound that remains mostly unscathed in our region’s winters, and it is quite drought tolerant once established. Large, creamy white blooms come out in March, held in clusters that can reach 6 to 8 inches across. Flowers persist for weeks and are easily seen because they sit facing outward on top of the plant. I jokingly call this plant “the winter hydrangea” because of the blooms’ showy and spherical shape. New foliage comes out whitish with pale purple overtones, adding even more interest in late winter. It works well as a specimen plant or when used in multiples for contrast next to plants with dark green, blue, or purple foliage. 

2. ‘Profusion’ Santa Barbara Daisy

Name: Erigeron karvinskianus ‘Profusion’

Zones: 7–10

Size: 10 to 12 inches tall and 24 to 36 inches wide

Conditions: Full sun to partial shade; moist to dry, well-drained soil

Native range: Mexico

If you are looking for a drought-tolerant ground cover that blooms from spring to frost, this is a plant to add to your list. It looks great draping over a sunny rockery, in containers, on the edge of an open border, or planted among grasses and perennials where its short stature won’t get lost. You can also sow this plant into cracks in rockeries to give your garden a romantic feel. The tiny daisy-like blooms come out white and then slowly turn to pale pink over time. Most importantly, it does not spread rampantly by root runners and can be cut back midseason if it trails too far. This low-maintenance ground cover will go the extra mile for you with a very long bloom season. 

3. Variegated East Indian Holly Fern

Name: Arachniodes simplicior ‘Variegata’

Zones: 7–9

Size: 18 inches tall and 18 to 24 inches wide

Conditions: Partial to full shade; moist, well-drained soil

Native range: India, China, Japan

This eye-catching fern has an upward-sweeping habit and delicate, shiny, evergreen leaves that are dark green with a yellow stripe radiating from the midrib. Mine has been growing successfully under an eave in the corner of my garden for several years. I use the foliage in bouquets because its stiff, spiky texture is a good contrast to many garden plants. In its native habitat it can be found growing in cliff crevices as well as along stream banks, so water needs are variable. To bring some drama to your shade garden, plant this fern behind a tight bed of dwarf mondo grass (Ophiopogon japonicus ‘Nanus’, Zones 6–11) or next to large-leaved hostas (Hosta spp. and cvs., Zones 3–8).

4. Beesia

Name: Beesia deltophylla

Zones: 6–9

Size: 10 to 12 inches tall and 18 inches wide

Conditions: Partial to full shade; evenly moist, well-drained soil

Native range: Southeastern Tibet

Beesia is a constant on my shopping list because of its tough, evergreen, heart-shaped leaves. The glossy green foliage brings light into shady spaces, and in winter the leaves turn a dark bronzy purple with paler veining that highlights the leaves’ pillowy texture. Contrasting tiny white blooms sit atop stiff, straight stems in spring and summer. Beesia looks best planted in multiples, lining a shady walkway, or used in swaths at the front of a border. I use it as a foil for other shade-loving perennials, such as Japanese forest grass (Hakonechloa macra and cvs., Zones 5–9), ferns, hardy begonia (Begonia grandis, Zones 6–9), and hostas. This plant literally shines in open, dappled, or deep shade.

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Lisa Bauer is the owner of Chartreuse Landscape Design in Seattle.

I reached the point where I was about ready to firebomb the entire yard and start from scratch. And this, by the way, is not a recommended method of pest control.

Do you know what is recommended? Making companion planting a part of your gardening routine.

After that horrific summer, I made it my focus to do whatever I could to control pests organically, and I don’t just mean using organic pesticides.

Crop rotation, mulch, beneficial insects, barriers, and companion planting – I did it all.

It took a few years for me to figure out the right combination, but before I knew it, I was living largely pest free.

If you’re looking for some effective ways to make your garden healthier using anise, this guide can help. We’re going to go over the following:

There are some companion plants out there that provide plenty of benefit to the garden but they don’t provide much benefit directly to me.

I’m selfish in that I want the things I put in my garden to do double duty. Anise does that because you can use it as an edible plant even while it’s working hard for you to control pests.

If you want to learn more about growing and using anise, check out our comprehensive guide.

Pest Species Anise Repels

No one plant is going to repel all pests. But there are quite a few that anise can help to keep away from your crops.

This certainly isn’t an exhaustive list, since there’s little money to be made in researching this plant’s ability to repel critters that don’t cause serious financial losses. But it’s a start.

For instance, studies have been done on red flour beetles (Tribolium castaneum), which are some of the most destructive pests of stored grain, both ground and whole, around the world.

One study by researchers from universities and research institutes in Italy and Egypt published in the journal Molecules looked at how the essential oil can be used to repel these beetles.

Another study in Plant Diseases and Protection found it to be highly effective against confused flour beetles (Tribolium confusum).

Researchers looked at repelling southern house mosquitos (Culex quinquefasciatus) using the essential oil.

Dr. Roman Pavela, a senior researcher at the Crop Research Institute in Prague, published a study in the Journal of Asia-Pacific Entomology, finding that it was toxic against these pests in all stages of life except for the eggs.

Green peach aphids (Myzus persicae) and tobacco cutworms (Spodoptera littoralis) are incredibly destructive and common pests.

While the essential oil was found to be effective against both, it was most useful against tobacco cutworm larvae.

Additionally, it didn’t appear to harm the beneficial invertebrates like beetles and worms that were also studied.

The results of the study were published by researchers from universities, research institutes, and government agencies in Italy, the Czech Republic, and India in the journal Industrial Crops and Products.

Another study looked at anise oil when used to target green peach aphids and pea aphids (Acyrthosiphon pisum).

Once again, research showed that the oil was highly effective, killing 95 percent of green peach and 87 percent of pea aphids.

Basil, fennel, and oregano oil were also effective at killing the aphids. If you’re interested, the study was published in the Journal of Plant Interactions.

Conducted by Maria Christina Digilio, Associate Professor at School of Agriculture and Veterinary Medicine at the University of Naples Federico II Portici, Italy, and Emilia Mancinib, Emanuela Votob, and Vincenzo De Feo at the Department of Pharmaceutical Science at the University of Salerno in Italy, it explores how herbs can be used to deter pests common to the Mediterranean region, but those two particular aphid species can be found across the world.

In another study published in Industrial Crops and Products, anise oil killed currant lettuce aphids (Nasonovia ribisnigri).

Aniseed oil repels spider mites, nematodes, and cabbage worms, as well.

There have also been repellents patented for using aniseed oil to get rid of mosquitos.

How to Use It as a Companion Plant

While we can clearly see that anise has potential as a pest repellent, the studies out there focus on using the essential oil, not the plant.

We don’t have a lot of information on whether you can use the plant as effectively as the essential oil.

But it stands to reason that the same insects that scurry away from the oil will scurry away from a bunch of plants that contain the same compound.

Plants should be placed within two feet of the area that you’re trying to protect. You can either alternate rows, mix the plants with other species, or surround a small area with anise.

What Makes It So Effective?

The main compound that both repels pests and attracts humans is (E)-anethole. This compound is what gives anise its bold, licorice-like flavor.

Apparently, some pests don’t like the compound, and it’s actually toxic to others.

A win-win for us humans, right? We benefit from the compound both in our food and in our gardens.

What About Star Anise?

While we’re talking about plants with anise in their names, don’t confuse P. anisum with star anise (Illicium verum). They’re very different plants – though they do share certain properties.

I. verum is a large shrub that needs warm weather in Zones 7 to 9.

It also has insecticidal properties, and a recent study by scientists at Korea University in Seoul found that it was effective in repelling Indianmeal moths (Plodia interpunctella).

The results were published in the journal Food Science and Biotechnology if you’re interested in learning more.

Star anise contains that same (E)-anethole compound, so it’s likely that we’ll find that it repels at least some of the same insects.

What Else Can Anise Do?

Anise isn’t just good for forcing pests away. It attracts some of them, too. Both beneficial and not-so-beneficial insects are attracted to P. anisum and you can use that to your advantage.

For instance, the oil has been used to attract thrips to sticky traps and away from more valuable plants. In the garden, this might translate to planting some as a trap crop around plants you want to protect.

The flowers also attract beneficial wasps and butterflies, such as black swallowtails (Papilio polyxenes).

Beneficial wasps of all kinds are attracted to plants with lots of small flowers. Think dill, caraway, and anise.

Mice adore anise seeds, so plant it as a trap crop near herbs and veggies that are attacked by these hungry omnivores.

Hydrangea paniculata

Think of a hydrangea, and visions of Hydrangea macrophylla likely fill your mind. This big, bold Hydrangeaceae relative is a popular choice, but have you ever considered H. paniculata for your garden instead?

Those of us who live in colder climates especially love this bush, but it can grow almost anywhere.

It is cold and heat hardy, not susceptible to spring frosts, tolerant of a variety of soils, loves a sunny spot, and is not demanding when it comes to maintenance.

As if that’s not enough, she is also gorgeous.

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Her football-shaped (and sized!) white clusters of blooms flush into pink and red tones as the season progresses, and the dry beige or brown spent blooms provide rustic winter interest.

The leaves of this shrub also turn from green to shades of yellow and orange in the fall.

Are you convinced this is the plant for you?

Read on for all the information you’ll need to successfully grow and care for beautiful panicle hydrangeas.

Cultivation and History

H. paniculata is native to cool temperate and subtropical regions of Japan, China, and the island of Sakhalin.

‘Grandiflora’, aka ‘PeeGee,’ was the first panicle hydrangea exported from Japan in 1861.

It was extremely popular during the Victorian era, and though it is still the most widely grown type today, its attractiveness sparked the export and development of a wide variety of cultivars, including the well known ‘Limelight.’

When many gardeners think of hydrangeas, they immediately start wondering how they can change the bloom color of their plants by adjusting the soil pH. But that won’t work in this case.

The color of the blooms is genetic, and it does change throughout the season, but the change with this species is a response to aging and temperature, not soil conditions.

Depending on the cultivar, the bloom color starts out white or cream, and then blushes into a pink or red shade as the days grow shorter and the nights cooler.

Propagation

Panicle hydrangeas are easy to propagate, most easily from cuttings or by layering rather than from seed.

From Cuttings

Taking cuttings is a good way to clone your favorite panicle hydrangea.

Snip six- to eight-inch softwood cuttings in late spring or early summer, preferably from a stem that didn’t flower. Remove the leaves from the lower three inches.

Fill a six-inch pot that has drainage holes with a soilless mixture of 80 percent moistened peat and 20 percent perlite.

Dip the cuttings into a rooting hormone powder like Bonide Bontone II, available from Arbico Organics.

Bonide Bontone II Rooting Powder

Stick each cutting into the potting medium two inches deep, one to three per pot, and cover the pot with plastic. Make sure to keep the plastic off the leaves by propping it up with a skewer.

Place the pot in a warm area with indirect sunlight, and remove the plastic to water when the soil surface is dry.

Hydrangeas root very quickly, and within two to three weeks the cuttings should resist a gentle pull, meaning fresh roots have pushed into the medium!

Keep your rooted plants indoors or in a greenhouse through their first winter.

The next year, take the plants outside for the spring and summer, and keep them watered. Bring them back inside again or to a protected area prior to the first frost.

You can confidently plant them out in the garden in their third year, either in the spring or fall.

Learn more about how to grow hydrangeas from cuttings in our guide.

By Layering

Choose a healthy branch from the outside of the bush, and bend it to test if it will reach the ground.

Pick off the leaves where the branch will touch the ground. Scrape the branch lightly with a knife in the area that will make contact with the earth to remove some bark.

If you want to speed things up, sprinkle the scraped area with some powdered rooting hormone.

Dig a three-inch-deep trench in the soil. Bend the branch gently to the ground, and place it into the trench, weighing down the end with a rock or something heavy.

Cover the branch with soil, leaving the tip exposed. Besides occasionally watering, leave it alone to allow roots to develop and new leaves to emerge.

Upon signs of rooting and new growth, you can cut the branch away from the parent bush.

Separating the new plant from the parent plant can be a shock to the new plant, so leave it in the ground for a few more weeks until it has grown at least four inches tall. At this point, you can dig it up for transplanting.

Transplanting

When you’ve selected your location, dig a hole slightly deeper and wider than the pot size of your transplant. Do not amend the soil with compost or fertilizer.

Simply plant it in the natural soil, backfill with loosened soil, and cover the soil surface with a two- to three-inch layer of bark mulch, leaving two inches of space around the crown.

This is especially important in cold areas, as the mulch will help protect the roots over the winter.

Water it in well.

How to Grow

Panicle hydrangeas are relatively easy to grow, especially once they are established.

They are the most heat and cold tolerant of all hydrangeas, so if you live in a cold growing zone where most other hydrangeas would suffer through the winter, this might be your plant!

Winter temperatures as low as -22°F are no problem for them. Most are hardy in Zones 3 to 8, and some varieties may be grown in Zone 9 as well.

Panicle hydrangea does well in both full sun and partial shade.

But give it too much shade and the bush will produce fewer of the big beautiful flower clusters, plus the flowers will fade from white to a muddy color rather than taking on a bright, pure pink or red hue.

Don’t plant them too close together either, since these plants can reach a height of eight to 15 feet and spread from six to 12 feet wide, depending on the cultivar.

Provided the soil is well draining, panicle hydrangea is relatively tolerant of a variety of soil conditions.

It prefers mildly acidic soil and will tolerate slightly alkaline soil. A pH range of 5.8 to 7.0 is ideal to prevent nutritional issues, and fertile soils are best.

For the first year or two after planting, water regularly to help it to become established.

Once established, panicle hydrangea is relatively drought tolerant. However, regular watering, especially during flowering and periods of hot and dry weather, will result in bigger flowers, and more of them.

If the soil is dry three inches down, water well.

This plant will do well without additional fertilizer, but if you want your shrub to grow a little faster than it might otherwise, you may apply a balanced fertilizer such as one recommended for roses annually in the spring.

Too much fertilizer, or a fertilizer high in nitrogen like those intended for use on lawns, will result in growth that is too fast, and the stems will be too weak to bear the weight of the massive clusters of blooms.

Plus, excess nitrogen encourages vegetative growth (stems and leaves) over reproductive growth (flowers).

Growing Tips

• Plant in a full sun location.
• Do not add compost or other amendments at planting time.
• Water deeply when soil is dry to three inches down.

Pruning and Maintenance

These shrubs bloom on new wood. To encourage the growth of stronger stems and better blooming – and to keep the shrub shapely – you may choose to prune your plant in the late fall or early spring.

Only prune the plant when it is dormant. You can tell this is the case if all the leaves have fallen off and have been off for at least two weeks in the fall, or in the early spring before green growth appears.

If you prune too late in the spring, you may be pruning out new buds and you won’t get any flowers!

Cut the plant back to one-third of its height, and thin out spindly stems, unsightly side branches, dead branches, and any areas that show signs of disease.

You can prune out dead or diseased branches at any point to avoid disease spread, if you notice them at other times of year as well.

H. paniculata can be trained into a tree, and many nurseries offer tree forms of popular cultivars.

Before the first frost of winter, add an extra inch of mulch to help protect the roots during the cold season.

Cultivars to Select

There are a variety of luscious H. paniculata cultivars available.

Firelight

Boasting strong stems holding up the big creamy white panicles that change to a vivid red, this variety is large, reaching heights of seven to eight feet.

‘Firelight’

It’s available at Nature Hills Nursery both in tree form and as a regular bush in one-quart or #3 containers.

Limelight

If you live in cooler zones, the blooms of this popular variety will start out as a lime-toned white, otherwise the blooms may initially be more of a creamy white.

Later in the season, the blooms turn deep pink.

‘Limelight’

This is a tall variety, growing six to eight feet. Hardy in Zones 3 to 9, this cultivar is available at Nature Hills Nursery in one quart, #2, and #3 containers.

Little Lime

Growing three to five feet tall and wide, the sturdy stems of Limelight’s little brother hold up the big lime-colored blooms very well. The vibrant color turns pink and then burgundy as the season progresses.

‘Little Lime’

Plants are available as regular shrubs in one quart, #3, and #5 containers and in tree form in a #5 container from Nature Hills Nursery.

Little Quick Fire

Growing to a diminutive three to five feet tall and wide, this variety explodes in the early summer with oversized creamy white panicles, which turn to a deep pink during the summer.

‘Little Quick Fire’

Plants in quart-size, #2, and #3 containers are available from Nature Hills Nursery.

Strawberry Sundae

If you’re looking for a smaller strawberry-toned variety, this three- to four-foot-tall by four- to five-foot-wide cultivar blooms in creamy white that transitions to rosy pink and strawberry red, also showcasing bicolor blooms.

‘Strawberry Sundae’

Find ‘Strawberry Sundae’ in #3 containers at Nature Hills Nursery.

Vanilla Strawberry

With sweet, fluffy flower clusters that change from white to pink to pinkish-red, and sometimes an attractive two-toned white and pink, this is a very pretty variety that grows six to seven feet tall and four to five feet wide.

‘Vanilla Strawberry’

Plants are available from Nature Hills Nursery in quart-size and #3 containers.

Managing Pests and Disease

Fortunately, serious pests and diseases that affect H. paniculata are limited. But no plant is completely immune to hungry animals and insects, so here are a few to look out for.

Herbivores

Deer will browse hydrangeas, and you need to watch those graceful herbivores because they can leave you with no flowers later in the season if they nibble the buds.

If you have a deer problem in the winter, cover your bush with wire mesh to protect the bark, and you can read more here about other helpful ways to keep deer out of your garden.

Insects

The hydrangea’s nutritious green leaves can be irresistible to a variety of insect pests, including these:

Scale

Scale insects love to visit woody bushes, and this includes panicle hydrangeas. These blister-like insects suck plant juices, and tend to increase in number with each passing year.

If you notice many crawlers (scale insects in the immature stage) early in the season, you might decide to control them with a dose of horticultural oil before they become adults and develop their protective waxy coating.

Once they are adults, they are less susceptible to sprays and are much harder to control.

Find more tips for combating scale insects here.

Spider Mites

Spider mites love hydrangeas, especially in the summer when it’s hot and dry.

Since they are tiny and love to hang out on the undersides of leaves, they are extremely easy to miss – unless they’ve left their fine webs behind, or you notice that the leaves are stippled with yellow spots, that is.

Before getting out the horticultural oil, try spraying your shrub with a stiff jet of water from the hose.

This will wash the mites off the leaves and onto the ground, where hopefully they will be unable to crawl back up to keep snacking.

Learn more about controlling spider mites here.

Disease

Several diseases can affect the stems and foliage of H. paniculata, and many of these affect other species as well. You can read about a variety of diseases that affect hydrangeas and how to deal with them here.

Bacterial Blight

Xanthomonas campestris causes bacterial blight, and this disease shows up as dark, angular, water-soaked spots which can take over the leaves and eventually kill them.

Bonide Copper Fungicide

Remove any diseased leaves and treat plants with a copper spray such as this one from Bonide, available via Arbico Organics.

Powdery Mildew

Powdery mildew causes fuzzy white mold on both sides of leaves and is aesthetically unpleasant.

Remove infected branches and leaves, and if that doesn’t seem to be helping, you can try applying a copper spray.

Best Uses

Whether planted as a specimen, in groups, in a hedge, as a border, or in an open woodland garden, this is a showstopping plant.

The late summer blush of color adds interest to your garden well into the fall, and the dry rust or pink-toned beige flower panicles stay over winter, collecting snow prettily.

You can use stems as a stunning cut flower, either as a bouquet filler or in a large vase on their own. And, since they dry so well, try using the blooms in dried flower arrangements too.

Quick Reference Growing Guide

Plant Type:	Deciduous, flowering woody shrub	Flower / Foliage Color:	White to pink and red/green
Native to:	China, Japan, Sakhalin	Maintenance:	Low
Hardiness (USDA Zone):	3-9	Tolerance:	Cold, heat
Bloom Time:	Spring/summer, depending on zone	Soil Type:	Organically rich, fertile
Exposure:	Full sun to part shade	Soil pH:	5.8-7.0
Spacing:	6-10 feet	Soil Drainage:	Well-draining
Planting Depth:	As deep as the root ball and twice as wide	Attracts:	Bees, butterflies
Height:	8-15 feet	Uses:	Specimen plant, groups, hedges, borders, open woodland gardens
Spread:	6-12 feet	Family:	Hydrangeaceae
Growth Rate:	Moderate	Genus:	Hydrangea
Water Needs:	Moderate	Species:	Paniculata
Common Pests:	Aphids, deer, scale, spider mites	Common Diseases:	Bacterial blight, powdery mildew

Panicle Hydrangea Offers a World of Color

From its color-changing blooms to its bright fall foliage, H. paniculata is up to something beautiful every time you turn around.

Hardy into Zone 3, and available in a variety of sizes and rosy color combinations, it can have a big impact in a huge variety of gardens – and it has since the 1800s.

Do these shrubs grace your garden with their big clusters of blooms? Let us know about your experience with these beauties in the comments section below.

And for more information about growing hydrangeas in your garden, have a read of these guides next:

The question from the title is on the minds of many urban dwellers and gardening enthusiasts. With limited outdoor space or unfavorable climate conditions, growing your vegetables indoors is an excellent solution. This comprehensive guide will provide you with all the information needed to start and maintain a successful indoor vegetable garden.

Source

Choosing the Right Location

When planning your indoor vegetable garden, one of the first decisions you’ll need to make is selecting the ideal location within your home. Here are some factors to consider:

1. Light Requirements: Most vegetables require at least six hours of sunlight per day. Choose a south or southeast-facing window that receives ample natural light. If necessary, supplement with grow lights.
2. Temperature: Vegetables thrive in temperatures between 65-75°F (18-24°C). Keep your garden away from drafts, heating vents, and air conditioning units.
3. Space: Ensure you have adequate space for your containers and plants, considering their eventual growth. Also, make sure you can access your garden easily for watering and maintenance.

Choosing Your Containers and Soil

The next step is selecting the appropriate containers and soil for your indoor vegetable garden.

1. Containers: Choose pots with drainage holes to prevent over-watering. Consider the size of the mature plant and its root system when selecting the pot size. Opt for food-safe containers, such as ceramic, plastic, or terra cotta.
2. Soil: Use a high-quality, well-draining potting mix designed for container gardening. Avoid using garden soil or soil from your yard, as it may contain pests, pathogens, or lack proper nutrients.

Selecting the Best Vegetable Varieties

Choose vegetables that are well-suited for indoor gardening. Some excellent options include:

1. Leafy Greens: Spinach, lettuce, kale, and Swiss chard are all great choices for indoor gardens, as they have low light and space requirements.
2. Herbs: Basil, parsley, cilantro, and chives thrive indoors and can be grown in smaller containers.
3. Dwarf Varieties: Look for dwarf or bush varieties of vegetables like tomatoes, peppers, and eggplants, which have been bred to grow well in containers and small spaces.
4. Root Vegetables: Carrots, radishes, and beets can also be grown indoors but may require deeper containers to accommodate their root systems.

Planting and Caring for Your Indoor Vegetable Garden

Now that you’ve chosen your location, containers, soil, and vegetables, it’s time to plant and care for your indoor vegetable garden.

• Planting: Follow the recommended planting guidelines for each vegetable, including proper seed depth and spacing.
• Watering: Keep the soil consistently moist but not soggy. Over-watering can lead to root rot and other issues.
• Fertilizing: Use a balanced, organic fertilizer to provide the necessary nutrients for your plants. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for application rates and frequency.
• Pest Management: Monitor your plants regularly for signs of pests, such as aphids, spider mites, or whiteflies. Use insecticidal soap, neem oil, or other organic treatments to minimize your pest problems.

Harvesting Your Indoor Vegetable Garden

1. Harvesting: Enjoy the fruits (or vegetables) of your labor! Harvest your produce when it reaches its optimal ripeness. For leafy greens, this usually means picking outer leaves as they mature, allowing the plant to continue producing. For fruiting vegetables, such as tomatoes or peppers, harvest when they have reached their full color and size.
2. Succession Planting: To maintain a continuous supply of fresh produce, consider planting seeds or seedlings in succession. This means starting new plants as you harvest others, ensuring that you always have something growing in your indoor garden.

Understanding Light Requirements and Grow Lights

One of the critical factors in a successful indoor vegetable garden is providing adequate light. In this section, we’ll discuss how to determine light requirements and the use of grow lights.

1. Light Requirements: Vegetables have varying light requirements, ranging from low light (4-6 hours per day) for leafy greens to high light (8-10 hours per day) for fruiting vegetables like tomatoes and peppers. Research your chosen vegetables to understand their light needs.
2. Grow Lights: In areas with insufficient natural light, artificial grow lights can provide the necessary light spectrum for healthy plant growth. There are several types of grow lights available, including fluorescent, LED, and high-intensity discharge (HID) lights. Each type has its pros and cons, so choose the best option for your indoor garden based on your budget, space, and vegetable varieties.

Indoor Gardening Tips and Tricks

Here are some additional tips and tricks to help your indoor vegetable garden thrive:

1. Rotation: Rotate your pots every few weeks to ensure that all sides of the plants receive equal exposure to light.
2. Pruning: Regularly prune your plants to promote healthy growth and prevent disease. Remove dead or yellowing leaves and any unhealthy branches.
3. Pollination: Some fruiting vegetables, like tomatoes and peppers, may require manual pollination indoors. Use a small paintbrush or cotton swab to transfer pollen from one flower to another gently.
4. Vertical Gardening: Maximize your indoor garden space by utilizing vertical gardening techniques. Use trellises, hanging baskets, or wall-mounted planters to grow your vegetables vertically.

The Benefits of Indoor Vegetable Gardening

Indoor vegetable gardening offers several benefits, including:

• Year-Round Harvest: Growing vegetables indoors allows you to enjoy fresh produce all year long, regardless of the season or outdoor weather conditions.
• Space-Saving: Indoor gardening is an excellent solution for those with limited outdoor space or living in urban environments.
• Control Over Growing Conditions: Indoor gardening allows you to control temperature, humidity, and light exposure, creating the ideal environment for your vegetables.
• Reduced Pesticide Use: Growing vegetables indoors often requires fewer chemical pesticides, resulting in healthier produce and a reduced environmental impact.

Additional Advantages of Having an Indoor Vegetable Garden

In addition to the benefits mentioned earlier, having an indoor vegetable garden offers even more advantages. Here are some further reasons to consider starting your own indoor garden:

1. Improved Air Quality: Plants absorb carbon dioxide and release oxygen through the process of photosynthesis, improving the air quality in your home. They also help filter out airborne toxins, contributing to a healthier living environment.
2. Stress Relief and Mental Health: Gardening has been shown to have therapeutic effects, helping reduce stress and anxiety. Having an indoor vegetable garden can provide a relaxing and rewarding hobby, which can have positive impacts on your overall mental health.
3. Food Security: By growing your own vegetables, you contribute to your household’s food security, knowing that you have access to fresh, nutritious produce even during challenging times.
4. Cost Savings: Growing your vegetables can be more cost-effective than purchasing them from the store, particularly for organic produce. Over time, you may find that the savings add up, making it a worthwhile investment.
5. Educational Opportunities: An indoor vegetable garden provides an excellent opportunity for children and adults alike to learn about plant growth, nutrition, and the importance of sustainable practices. This hands-on experience can be a valuable teaching tool for families.
6. Customization: With an indoor vegetable garden, you have the freedom to choose which vegetables you want to grow, allowing you to experiment with new or heirloom varieties that may not be readily available at your local grocery store.
7. Reduced Food Waste: By harvesting only what you need, you can reduce food waste and ensure that your product is always fresh and at its peak flavor.
8. Eco-Friendly: Growing your own vegetables indoors reduces the need for transportation and packaging associated with store-bought produce. This, in turn, reduces your carbon footprint and supports a more sustainable lifestyle.
9. Aesthetic Appeal: An indoor vegetable garden can serve as a visually appealing addition to your home, adding a touch of greenery and life to your living space.
10. Sense of Accomplishment: Nurturing your plants from seeds or seedlings to full-grown, productive plants provides a sense of accomplishment and pride in your gardening skills.

In conclusion, an indoor vegetable garden offers numerous advantages that extend beyond merely providing fresh produce. It contributes to improved air quality, stress relief, food security, cost savings, and many other benefits that can enhance your life. By following the steps and tips outlined in this comprehensive guide, you’ll be well-equipped to create and maintain a thriving indoor garden. Embrace the opportunity to cultivate a rewarding and sustainable hobby that not only brings beauty and life to your home but also fosters a deeper connection to the food you eat and the environment around you.

Companion planting herbs is an excellent natural way to keep unwanted pests away and also encourage growth. It’s a win-win situation! Consider some of these herb companion planting tips when planning your herb and vegetable garden.

In this post, you will learn:

Expert Tips for Companion Planting Herbs

• When planning your garden, pay close attention to which plants have similar growing conditions and pair them together.
• For herbs, consider accessibility—where does it make sense for you to place your herb garden so that it’s easy to access?
• Some herbs, such as mint, can be rather invasive, so it’s best to keep them in pots rather than in your garden bed.

What Herbs Can Be Planted Together?

When planning for your garden, you want to always pair plants with similar growing conditions. This means plants who like the same soil, amount of light, amount of water, fertilizer, etc. So that’s your first step!

Then, you always want to plan what you intend to use them for. For instance, I like to put all my culinary herbs right outside my kitchen and near my patio to access them easily. This is a big part of growing a permaculture-focused garden.

You can also make plant groupings for other purposes. For example, you might want to combine all your Mediterranean herbs or make a mosquito-repelling container!

Companion Planting Herbs

Companion planting herbs is a natural way to repel pests from your garden. Rather than deter pests based on their presence, certain herbs can mask the smell of the host plant that the pest wants. They can also attract predatory insects and confuse pests.

In some cases, herbs can also promote the growth of others (like how borage can make strawberries sweeter) or inhibit the growth of others (like rosemary with other herbs).

This is a quick reference herb companion planting guide with some of the most popular herbs and what to plant them with.

However, you can plant most of these herbs with other plants not on this list; the ones mentioned are just exceptional pairings!

Basil

• Pests it repels: whiteflies, carrot flies, and asparagus beetle.
• Plant with: tomato, asparagus, carrots, beans, cabbage, peppers, potatoes, beets, and eggplant.
• Avoid planting with: rue, sage, and most other herbs besides oregano and chamomile. Prefers being planted with vegetables.

Borage

• Pests it repels: tomato hornworm, asparagus beetle, and cabbage moth caterpillars.
• Plant with: tomato, asparagus, strawberries, squash, melons, and cucumbers.
• Avoid planting with: nothing, it works with everything!

Catnip

• Pests it repels: ants, flea beetles, aphids, Japanese beetle, squash bugs, weevils, Colorado potato beetle, cabbage looper, and cockroaches.
• Plant with: potato, brassicas, cabbage, and squash.
• Avoid planting with: parsley.

Chives

• Pests it repels: carrot flies, Japanese beetle, aphids.
• Plant with: lettuce, carrots, cucumbers, peas, celery, and tomatoes.
• Avoid planting with: all-around good to plant with everything.

Cilantro/Coriander

• Pests it repels: aphids, spider mites, Colorado potato beetle.
• Plant with: potato, tomato, spinach, basil, dill, lavender, and mint.
• Avoid planting with: fennel.

Dill

• Pests it repels: aphids, squash bugs, spider mites, and cabbage looper.
• Plant with: lettuce, squash, brassicas, cucumber, corn, onions, and asparagus.
• Avoid planting with: lavender, peppers, potatoes, carrots, and eggplant.

Lavender

• Pests it repels: moths, fleas, and mosquitoes.
• Plant with: lettuce, tomatoes, squash, brassicas, rosemary, thyme, sage, and oregano.
• Avoid planting with: mint.

Mint

• Pests it repels: ants, aphids, cabbage looper, flea beetles, squash bugs, and whiteflies.
• Plant with: lettuce, squash, brassicas, cabbage, kale, radish, carrots, onions, and tomatoes.
• Avoid planting with: mint gets along with everyone but can be invasive.

Oregano

• Pests it repels: cabbage moth caterpillars, cucumber beetles, and mosquitoes.
• Plant with: brassicas, asparagus, basil, lavender, tomatoes, garlic, onions, and thyme.
• Avoid planting with: cabbage, broccoli, collards, and celery.

Parsley

• Pests it repels: asparagus beetles, aphids, thrips, cabbage loopers, cabbage works, and gypsy moths.
• Plant with: asparagus, corns, carrots, tomatoes, peas, onions, peppers and chives.
• Avoid planting with: mint, lettuce, carrots, and alliums.

Rosemary

• Pests it repels: carrot flies, cabbage loopers, cockroaches, mosquitoes, slugs, snails, and Mexican bean beetle.
• Plant with: sage, broccoli, beans, cabbage, and hot peppers.
• Avoid planting with: carrots, potatoes, pumpkins, and other herbs except for sage and lavender.

Sage

• Pests it repels: cabbage moths, carrot flies, flea beetles, snails, and black flea beetles.
• Plant with: brassicas, strawberries, tomatoes, carrots, cabbage, lavender, and rosemary.
• Avoid planting with: other herbs except for rosemary and lavender, and cucumber.

Thyme

• Pests it repels: cabbage moths, whiteflies, and corn earworms.
• Plant with: brassicas, strawberries, lavender, potatoes, eggplants, shallots, and blueberries.
• Avoid planting with: mint, basil, tomatoes, pumpkins, and celery.

Frequently Asked Questions About Herb Companion Planting

How to Care for Herbs

Now that you know how to companion plant your herbs and find them the best place in your garden, learn more about how to care for them in these helpful posts:

Do you make a spring shopping list for your garden? I do, although the way I develop that list has changed over the years. Now, instead of writing, say, “‘Blue Tasmania’ Colorado spruce” on my list, I’ll instead jot down something like “dwarf blue conifer approx. 3×3.” I made this tactical switch after years of being too specific with my needs only to arrive at the garden center and be disappointed when I couldn’t find exactly what I wanted.

“Be flexible,” I remind myself as I pull into the driveway of the local nursery in April.

This is not to say that I don’t have very specific plants that will forever remain on my wish list until they are obtained. ‘Frosted Emerald’ Japanese snowbell (Styrax japonicus ‘Frosted Emerald’, Zones 6–9), for example, has been a staple of my spring shopping list for a few years now.

The story behind how it got onto my list in the first place is likely a scenario all gardeners can relate to. A few years back I was at a specialty nursery looking specifically for some broadleaf evergreens. As I loaded a good-looking mountain laurel into my wagon I spotted two lone variegated snowbells—rather small and gangly—out of the corner of my eye. It was my first encounter with the cultivar ‘Frosted Emerald.’ I was immediately smitten with the tree, although not so much with its hefty price tag.

“Nope, not what I came here to buy,” I told myself and tried to push the image of that stunning rarity out of my head. That didn’t work, of course, and I found myself thinking about the tree a week later. So I returned to the same nursery to find—you guessed it—no ‘Frosted Emerald’ Japanese snowbells. Since then I have been on the lookout for one, and until I find it, that plant will remain on my shopping list.

It’s important to have spring shopping lists. It helps focus our efforts at the garden center when all of us are suffering from a sort of delusional fever of excitement at the start of the season. In most cases it’s a good idea to keep those items on the list general and attainable. But never give up on your dream plants—like Golden Belltower™ ironwood (Parrotia persica ‘Chrishaven1’, Zones 4–8), which I’ve fallen in love with after reading about it in our New Plants for 2023 section. It’s now on my list this year.

You can rest assured that if I see that particular tree at the nursery in the coming weeks—regardless of how gangly it looks or how much it costs—I’ll be putting it into my cart. With no regrets. Until the credit card bill arrives.

—Danielle Sherry, executive editor

At least, I hope it was the final frost!

We had over a month of warm weather and just about everything woke up, from pear trees to persimmons, apples to mulberries.

And then on Sunday night, we had an overnight low of 28 degrees, then 32 the next night.

It looks like we lost our tomato transplants and took a good bit of damage on the tropicals that were trying to come back from the ground.

When the weather is nice and warm, then hits freezing, plants are simply unprepared. All the new leaves and blooms get wrecked.

But – this should be the end of it.

We covered as much as we could with thrift store sheets and blankets, including the potato beds:

I posted that picture on YouTube and the comments were hilarious.

We have the best commenters.

We covered a crabapple that was flowering in the food forest and it looks okay.

I love those blooms.

One of the worst things about gardening in the Deep South is the swings in spring.

If you wait until later to plant, the weather often gets too hot and buggy to grow a good garden. If you plant too early, you lose your garden to unexpected cold snaps.

The swinging back and forth is terrible. Yet we press on.

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I always learn something when I visit with Marc Hachadourian, the director of glasshouse horticulture and senior curator of orchids at the famed New York Botanical Garden (NYBG) and author of Orchid Modern (Timber Press, 2019). After attending the spectacular Orchid Show this year, I was eager to find out a little more about the orchids at the garden. Orchidaceae is one of the largest plant families on earth, with approximately 30,000 naturally occurring species in the wild, and more than 100,000 horticultural varieties due to extensive plant breeding and naming. “I have a job where I work at the intersection of science, education, and horticulture,” he says. “And at times, it’s nothing short of magical.” Here, Marc talks about what makes the NYBG’s collection so important and offers some basic orchid advice.

Photography courtesy of New York Botanical Garden.

What’s the glasshouse collection?

“We have essentially a living history of the institution in our glasshouse and orchid collection that we need to preserve for the future. This history may represent rare and unusual species and historic and venerable specimens. We work to conserve these rare plants, natural occurring species, and even rare hybrids that are not really found in cultivation anymore. It’s not just trees that are long lived, you know—there are many plants that can live decades, if not hundreds of years. So, a lot of what we do is stewardship, which is something that I always feel is important because I’m connecting to the past. I’m working with plants that were brought here by the founder of the New York Botanical Garden 120 or so years ago. I love that. And hopefully many of these plants will be here long after I’m gone.”

How does the NYBG help with orchid conservation?