Category: Home & Garden

Now, I plan to plant celery in my next summer garden here in Alaska. Garden celery tastes much better than the store-bought stuff, and it’s time to properly introduce my three-year-old son to one of my favorite childhood snacks.

Celery leaves, used as herbs, also make a tasty addition to soups.

While celery has a reputation as a fickle plant to grow, it’s pretty easy once you understand exactly what it needs in order to thrive.

What Is Celery?

Celery is considered both a vegetable and an herb belonging to the genus Apium and the family Apiaceae, which also includes coriander, celeriac, parsley, fennel, and carrots.

Native to certain regions in Africa, Asia, and Europe, Apium plants flourish in marshy growing conditions. Most of us don’t have swamps for backyards, so it’s a good thing celery’s been cultivated for easily achievable garden conditions.

In addition to having a crisp, tasty crunch, celery is high in vitamin K, vitamin A, folate, and potassium.

Celery is even the star of a recent celebrity-fueled detox drink: pure celery juice. While the juice may not provide the magical healing properties its adorers claim, it is a nutritious drink.

You can reap the same benefits by including celery in the regular meals you make.

Cultivation and History

Celery makes a surprise appearance in Homer’s “Odyssey,” referenced as selinon, the Latin form of the Greek word for the plant.

Celery probably originated in the Mediterranean, but by the 1600s, it was a staple flavoring throughout Europe, known in France as celeri. Gardeners in 18th-century France, England, and Germany are credited with mitigating celery’s strong flavor to make it more palatable as an everyday vegetable.

We don’t know who brought celery to the Americas, but by 1806, four cultivated varieties of celery were recorded in North America.

Celery forms one-third of the Holy Trinity of Cajun and Creole cooking, which also includes green bell peppers and onions. Together, these three vegetables become the base for gumbo, jambalaya, and a whole host of tasty Louisiana dishes. You can read more about this topic on our sister site, Foodal.

Propagation

You can start celery from seed indoors or outdoors, from seedlings bought at a greenhouse, or even from a used stalk of grocery store celery.

In the high North – like Alaska – celery should be a summer crop. In hot, humid areas like the American South, it makes a perfect winter crop. Elsewhere, it’s an ideal fall crop.

From Seed

If you live in a colder climate, you’ll want to start your seeds indoors about 8-10 weeks before the last frost. This typically translates into early to mid-March.

Celery needs about 3-4 months to grow, so if you want a fall crop, sow in May or June. For a winter crop, sow seeds in September or October.

Lots of beginner gardeners get frustrated with celery because it doesn’t seem to ever sprout. The thing is, celery seeds aren’t planted like other seeds – not if you want them to grow, at least.

Make sure you start with a loose bed of soil in each cell. Tamp it down with your finger and add 2-3 seeds to each cell, but do not push the seeds down. They should be laid bare for the sunshine to see!

I know it might feel difficult to see them so vulnerable, but celery seeds need direct sunlight in order to germinate. If you don’t have lots of sunny windows, invest in a fluorescent grow light to give your seeds the light they need.

Keep the lights close to the soil and follow all the manufacturer’s instructions carefully for best results.

Another important tip is to avoid planting the seeds in clumps of four or more. Celery seeds are notoriously tiny, so this isn’t always easy. But if you plant too many near each other, you’ll find yourself doing a lot of thinning later on.

One trick is to dip a cotton swab in water and then touch the seeds with it. Scrape seeds off and onto the planting soil one by one with a toothpick. If you have excellent fine motor skills, of course, you can just use your fingers like tweezers.

Set your seed tray near a sunny window and keep a spray bottle handy. Your delicate seeds will need to stay damp. You can cover the seed tray with some plastic wrap to keep it nice and humid in there, too.

Once you see the first plants start poking through the earth, remove the plastic wrap.

And don’t fret if your celery takes its sweet time to sprout. Germination can take up to 18 days! Before you transplant your seedlings outdoors, harden them off for 7-10 days.

If you live in a warmer climate and are planning a winter crop, sow your seeds directly into your outdoor garden in late summer or early fall. Plant seeds about a foot apart, and make sure the soil is loose and compost-rich.

From Grocery Store Celery Stalks

Did you recently buy a stalk of celery from the grocery store? Don’t throw it away! Instead, cut off the base. Set it in a bowl of water to soak, keeping it near a window. The cut stalks should face upward.

After a week has passed, you’ll notice tiny green leaves growing in the center of the base. Transfer it to a pot or your vegetable garden and cover everything but the little leaves with the same loose, moist soil you’d use for planting celery seeds.

Keep the celery plant watered and watch as new stalks grow from the old base. It’s really kind of a beautiful life cycle to witness. Plus, your store bought celery is basically giving you a bonus plant.

From Seedlings/Transplanting

If you’ve picked up celery starts from a nursery or your seedlings are ready to transfer outdoors, first make sure the soil will provide a premium home for your wee celery plants.

Celery needs 5-7 hours of full sun every single day, so make sure you pick somewhere bright. Next, prepare the soil. Celery roots are fragile and hairlike, so they won’t grow well in clay or sand, or plain old heavy dirt.

Fill a raised bed with super rich soil – think a nearly pure-compost environment. Gently rake an all-purpose fertilizer through the top layer of soil and add some used coffee grounds to the mix, too.

Why add coffee?

Because the nitrogen in the pH-neutral used coffee grounds will help your celery plants thrive. (In that way, I am much like a celery plant.)

Finally, test the soil’s pH levels. Celery doesn’t like too much acidity or alkalinity, so you’re looking for a neutral number between 6.5 and 7.5.

When you’re ready to transplant, make sure there’s only one celery plant per bulb. If there’s more than one, remove it and toss it into your evening salad. Space each plant about 12 inches apart and keep evenly moist.

How to Grow

Celery is generally a cold-hardy plant, and it suffers in too much heat.

But don’t transplant too early. You want the soil to warm up to about 50°F with outdoor temperatures remaining above 40°F throughout the night. Plant too soon and your celery might bolt.

In addition, the soil should be:

• Loose
• Very rich in compost (either store bought or home-brewed), used coffee grounds, and planting soil
• Kept evenly watered but not boggy, despite celery’s marshy beginnings
• Free of weeds

Celery needs about 130-140 days to mature between seeding and harvest. But celery care doesn’t stop once you’ve transplanted your seedlings.

Greenhouse-grown varieties and some seed cultivars need blanching in order to keep from becoming too bitter.

To blanch your celery plants, wait until they double in size from their seedling height. Then, bank soil up around the plant’s base.

This will keep sunlight from reaching the bottom half of the stalks, producing a white, less bitter, and slightly less nutrient-dense stalk.

You can also purchase self-blanching cultivars if you want to avoid this step. You’ll probably still want to tie the heads of the celery stalks together to support blanching.

For more information on appropriate blanching, read our full guide. Or, if you prefer full-blooded, bitter celery, don’t blanch it at all.

Keep your celery fertilized in its second, third, and fourth months  by adding a tablespoon of 5-10-10 fertilizer to a tamped-down area dug about 3 inches away from the plant.

Above all, keep that celery watered! It needs between 1 and 1.5 inches of water per week. If celery doesn’t get the moisture it needs, it’ll shrivel and get extra stringy. My childhood self shudders at the very idea.

Managing Pests and Disease

While celery’s pretty good at fending off creepy-crawly predators, it does occasionally fall prey to pests, diseases, and fungus.

Insects

There are a number of insect pests that can have a tasty meal from your celery crop.

Aphids

Aphids just can’t get enough of… every living green thing in the universe. There aren’t enough ladybugs in the world to keep track of all the aphids. But, you can try.

If you see ladybugs around your yard, carefully transport them to your aphid-riddled celery. Their bellies will thank you.

In addition to sucking all the life out of your celery, aphids contribute to the growth and spread of celery mosaic virus. You can read this article for more tips on how to combat aphids.

Thrips

They might have a cute name, but thrips are anything but. Thrips are tiny winged bugs that slurp up all your celery’s fluid, which is terrible because celery has a lot of water in it.

Check your celery leaves for black dots of thrip poop, or frass. To control a thrip infestation, use neem oil or insecticidal soap on your plants.

Read more about thrip identification and control here.

Celery Leaftier

This moth is only about 3/4 of an inch in size, but it’ll chew holes all over your celery plants and string little webs in between the leaves.

If you catch sight of leaftiers in their caterpillar phase or even later, don’t mourn the loss of your precious plants. A couple doses of pyrethrum dust should get rid of the bugs.

European Corn Borer

The European corn borer looks a lot like the celery leaftier, but it attacks your celery stems. Not good!

Try using Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt) to control the larvae of these pests before they do serious damage.

Diseases

There are a few diseases you’ll want to watch out for.

Bacterial Blight and Brown Stem

If your celery stalks start turning brown in places and the leaf blades develop circular spots of rot, your plant might be suffering from bacterial blight, Pseudomonas cichorii.

One way to prevent this is to ensure a spread of at least 12 inches between plants so that the leaves can’t spread the infection.

Soft Rot

Caused by three different types of bacteria – Erwinia carotovora, E. chrysanthemi, and P. marginalis, soft rot attacks the base of your plant and turns it slimy and mushy.

Always use fresh, clean water to hydrate your plants and allow time for the soil to dry between waterings. At first signs of rot, remove the affected stalks. If the entire base of your plant is brown and mushy, however, you may need to pull the whole plant.

Celery Mosaic Virus

Spread by aphids, this virus stunts plants, causes dark splotches to appear on stalks, and curls leaves.

The best way to avoid celery mosaic virus is to keep aphids managed. Pull affected plants immediately to stop the virus from spreading.

Downy Mildew

Downy mildew (Peronospora umbellifarum), is easy to spot due to the fluffy, moldy growths that’ll appear on the underbellies of your poor celery leaves. You might also notice yellow spots on the leaves.

Treat with fungicide from your local garden center.

Fusarium Yellows

Fusarium yellows (Fusarium oxysporum) is a fungus that turns your plants soft and brown at the base and yellow everywhere else. Some celery cultivars, like the ‘Tango Hybrid,’ are fusarium-resistant.

Keep your gardening tools clean between uses to help avoid fungus development and spread.

Harvesting

Depending on the variety, you can harvest celery 85-110 or so days after transplanting. Once the stalks are at least six inches tall from the bottom of the stalk to the first leaf, they’re ready to eat.

If you don’t need all your celery at once, cut off individual stalks from the outside in. Outer stalks tend to be greener and stronger in flavor (especially if they haven’t been blanched) whereas inner stalks, with the natural blanching provided by the outer stalks, are lighter and sweeter.

You can also harvest the entire plant at once.

Read more about celery harvesting here.

Preserving

To keep celery fresh in your refrigerator for up to two weeks, remove the leaves, wrap stalks in moist towels, and seal in plastic bags. Keep them in the crisper section of your refrigerator and don’t forget they’re there! Use those celery leaves within the first couple of days to ensure the best flavor.

If you want to keep celery in your freezer for the winter months, you can:

1. Cut it to cooking size.
2. Blanch it in boiling water for one minute.
3. Drop it into some ice water.
4. Remove and allow to dry.
5. Stick in a freezer bag and pop into the freezer. Voila!

Use within 12-18 months, and remember: it won’t have that signature crunch once you take it out of the freezer, making it less ideal for snacking but fantastic for cooking.

Recipes and Cooking Ideas

Celery leaves can add pep to a salad or pasta. The stalks make perfect afternoon snacks for your kids, and you can also try your hand at making gumbo or jambalaya with your fragrant garden celery.

On our sister site, Foodal, celery’s one of the star ingredients in an easy homemade seafood stock recipe. A winning vegetable stock recipe to suit all your cooking needs throughout the year is available on Foodal as well.

Quick Reference Growing Guide

Plant Type:	Biennial, annual	Water Needs:	1-1.5 inches per week
Native to:	Mediterranean	Maintenance:	Medium
Hardiness (USDA Zone):	4-10, some varieties hardy to 2 or 3	Soil Type:	Loose and rich
Season:	Spring, fall, early winter	Soil pH:	6.5-7.5
Exposure:	Full sun	Soil Drainage:	Well-draining
Time to Maturity:	120-130 days	Companion Planting:	Daisies, tomatoes, leeks
Spacing:	12 inches	Avoid Planting With:	Asters, carrots, corn
Planting Depth:	Very shallow (don’t bury)	Order:	Apiales
Height:	12-18 inches	Family:	Apiaceae
Spread:	4-6 inches	Genus:	Apium
Tolerance:	Light frost	Species:	graveolens
Common Pests:	Aphids, celery leaftier, European corn borer, thrips	Common Disease:	Bacterial blight, celery mosaic virus, downy mildew, fusarium yellows, soft rot

I love seeing any kind of pollinator in my garden. All are welcome, but none are as showy or as exciting to spot as butterflies. My favorite, which I used to see in great numbers as a kid, is the monarch. Unfortunately, this gorgeous insect is in decline all over, including in my region and state. Planting native species is one of the easiest things we as gardeners can do to support these and other pollinators.

Monarchs in My Garden

As far back as I can remember in my life, it has always been a treat to see a monarch, even when they were more common. Maybe it’s the striking, black and orange, tiger-like coloring. Many butterflies fold up their wings and hide the vibrant colors, showing the dull brown-gray of their undersides, but monarchs are bright and colorful from any angle.

Another reason I love these insects, and why so many people do, is the spectacular journey they make. Monarchs migrate more than 1,000 miles (1,609 km.) between Mexico and the rest of North America. From Michigan, they fly 2,500 miles (4,023 km.) to Mexico.

Of course, there is the fact that, like many others, monarch butterflies are important pollinators. This is a reason to love them even if they didn’t have everything else going for them.

As monarch populations have dropped and become a less common sight, spotting one is more exciting than ever. I sometimes see one in my garden, but more often I find them in nearby parks. One local park is large and has a lot of natural areas with native plants. This is where I see the most butterflies of all types and the majority of monarchs.

Monarchs in Michigan

Monarch populations have dropped all over their native range, and Michigan, where I live, is no exception. In some places, monarch numbers are down a troubling 80%. A recent study from Michigan State University collected information for several years and found the primary cause for this drop: climate change.

There have been many contributing factors. The biggest decline in the population actually came in the late 1990s and early 2000s when herbicides with glyphosate were used heavily on farms. Genetically engineered crops that could resist glyphosate allowed farmers to spray the herbicide liberally over their fields with detrimental effects on milkweed plants.

Milkweed might be a weed on a farm, but for a monarch it is essential. This is the only plant that monarch butterflies use as food and hosts for their caterpillars.

While the glyphosate boom was a major contributor, researchers now say that climate change is having a bigger impact on monarch populations in Michigan. Changes in the climate in the butterflies’ northern spring and summer breeding areas have caused numbers to drop more than any other factor.

Supporting Monarchs and Other Pollinators

Monarchs will always be my favorite butterfly and I will continue to enjoy seeing them. I hope that it becomes less rare in the future. Stopping or reversing climate change might be a Herculean or impossible task right now, but individual, local choices can support monarch butterflies and other pollinators.

One of the most important things any gardener can do is plant native species. For monarchs, it is especially important to plant milkweed or at least allow it to grow naturally. Unfortunately, my garden isn’t the right setting for milkweed, but I do plant other native species that support other butterflies: black-eyed Susan, purple coneflower, and coreopsis to name a few.

The best way to plant flowers for butterflies is in groups. If they are too scattered throughout a garden, it’s more difficult for pollinators to find them. I have one large bed that is made up solely of native flowers attractive to pollinators.

Another thing I do to support monarchs and other butterflies is refrain from using herbicides and pesticides. I pull weeds by hand and welcome insects as long as they aren’t causing too much trouble.
I hope that one day my garden and others in the area will become thriving native plant destinations for all kinds of pollinators. Then, I might begin to see my favorite butterfly more often.

Gardening is often touted as a good hobby for staying physically active. It burns calories and builds strength and flexibility as you lift, carry, squat, and, of course, pull persistent weed after weed. This is all true, but for me, the primary benefit of gardening is what it does for my mental health.

Gardening Gets Me Outside

Research has proven what many people and cultures have long known: Being outside, being in nature and around green, growing things is good for mental health. I don’t have to garden to go outside, but when chores are waiting to be done daily, it forces me to get out there.

Being outdoors provides a big boost to mental health. It’s not necessary to get deep into the wilderness. Simply being where plants grow and wild animals live is enough to improve mood, lower depression, reduce stress and anxiety, and increase relaxation and resilience during difficult times.

In an increasingly technological world, this is more important than ever. I love the outdoors, but even for me, it’s easy to get lost in streaming movies and TV shows, scrolling through social media, and basically staying indoors, glued to a screen. Gardening is a reminder that I need to be outside, daily.

Gardening is Lifelong Learning

All hobbies are beneficial, but what I like so much about gardening is that it’s an ongoing learning experience. Good mental health relies on being satisfied and fulfilled in your life. For me, a big part of that is learning.

Gardening is the perfect hobby for anyone who loves to learn. Even if I become a master gardener, there is always still more to know. I learn through experience, from reading, and through occasional courses offered through my county extension office. To keep on learning is incredibly satisfying and leaves me feeling accomplished and fulfilled.

Gardening is Mindfulness

I discovered the joys of meditation only recently. After deciding to try a daily meditation course, I realized that gardening had been providing me with a type of mindfulness meditation for years. I just never realized it.

When working in the garden, I am in the moment. My mind focuses on the task at hand while my senses take in the feel of the dirt, the wind, and the sun. I hear birds and insects and see and smell all the plants around me. This is the essence of mindfulness, which is simply being aware of the present moment.

It turns out that all these years of gardening have been a beneficial mindfulness practice. According to research, mindfulness is good for mental health because it distracts the mind from troubling thoughts. While lost in a gardening task, instead of dwelling on past worries or future anxieties, my mind is focused on the moment. This is probably an important reason why I feel more relaxed and calm after spending time working in the garden.

Gardening is Acceptance

A big block to better mental health for me, and for many I’m sure, is acceptance. In order to be truly happy, it’s important to accept things you cannot change or control, to accept that things can’t always be perfect.

Gardening is a good hobby for anyone hobbled by perfectionism. Nature has a mind of its own. No matter how hard you work to get a garden to look a certain way, you cannot control every aspect of the outcome. Things will always go wrong. A plant that should have been perfect in one bed fails to thrive. Pests return despite your best efforts.

My garden has forced me to accept that I have to adapt my plans and sometimes cope with things the way they are. This doesn’t mean giving up or not working toward goals, but there are limits to what anyone can accomplish or control. Working in a garden has been a perfect lesson in acceptance, which ultimately leads to more happiness.

Gardening for health is a great goal. For anyone new to the hobby, just dive in and try it. You don’t have to do it well at first, and you likely won’t. Enjoy the process, embrace the outdoors, and accept your limitations.

Iris douglasiana

Those flamboyant bearded irises may get most of the attention, but the not-so-humble Douglas iris is ready for more time in the spotlight.

A North American native, this spectacular species grows in coastal California and Oregon.

But it makes a superb ornamental for those across North America who need something showy for a shady spot or a plant that can deal with that perennial garden challenge: heavy clay soil.

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This is going to sound silly, but I remember the first time I saw a big wild patch of Douglas irises.

I was on a trip to northern California in my late teens and I was absolutely convinced that someone had planted some irises and they had escaped the garden somehow.

It just didn’t compute in my brain that a wildflower could be so big and beautiful.

Believe it, baby.

There’s a lot of awesome stuff to know about these plants, so if you’re ready to learn more, here’s what we’ll be discussing:

These plants have a fascinating, long history, not only as an ornamental but as a valuable food and tool. Surprised? There’s more where that came from. Let’s take a look:

What Is Douglas Iris?

Douglas irises (Iris douglasiana), also known as western or mountain irises, are native to the Pacific Coast of North America.

You’ll sometimes see them called Pacific or Pacific Coast irises, but that’s a more general term for the native irises that grow in coastal California, Oregon, and Washington.

These “Pacific” irises include those in the Californicea series, which is part of the subgenus Limniris, a group made up of “beardless” irises.

These “Pacific” species are bowl-tube (I. macrosiphon), Fernald’s (I. fernaldii), golden (I. innominata), Hartweg’s or Sierra (I. hartwegii), Munz’s (I. munzii), Purdy’s (I. purdyii), Shasta or Dyke’s (I. tenuissima), Siskiyou (I. bracteata), Thompson’s (I. thompsonii), tough-leaf (I. tenax), and yellow leaf iris (I. chrysophylla).

Most of these are much less common in nurseries, but you may find them from time to time, particularly the tough-leaf and golden species.

These particular species can be grown similarly to I. douglasiana, so don’t worry if you end up with one accidentally.

Also, wild irises readily hybridize with each other, so if you cultivate one that you dig up on your own or someone else’s property (with permission), it might be a bit unique from the standard species. That’s part of the fun!

Douglas irises grow in a narrow 700-mile-wide band along the coast starting in central Oregon and heading south through southern California.

They’re hardy in USDA Zones 6 to 10. If you happen to find a wild Douglas iris outside of the narrow band in which it grows, it’s likely a natural hybrid.

Mountain irises are flowering evergreens that generally stick to lower elevations. These plants were named for David Douglas, a Scottish botanist.

He explored the Pacific Northwest for a few years starting in 1824. During his travels, he “discovered” this plant, among others named for him, such as the Douglas fir.

I use the term “discovered” loosely as native populations living in the region had been using the plant for food, tools, and medicine long before Mr. Douglas came around.

The sword-shaped greenish-yellow to dark green leaves, which grow in pairs, are an attractive, clumping accent in the garden even when the flowers aren’t present.

When the flowers do emerge in spring, they range from deep reddish or bluish purple to pale purple. Rarely, they might be entirely yellow or white.

The petals have yellow, white, or orange bases at the bottom center of the lowest petal. These colored areas at the base of the petals are signal patches to guide pollinators into the flower.

The petals also have contrasting venation, which means the veins are a different color than the surrounding tissue.

Each flower branch can have several flowers, and they’re generally shorter than the leaves, with the blossoms just protruding above the framing foliage. Flowers tend to cluster in groups of two or three.

Hummingbirds and insects love to feed on them when the flowers are in bloom, typically in spring, though some cultivars bloom as early as January and others as late as July.

Some cultivars will bloom a second time during the autumn, including ‘Wishing,’ ‘Point Santa Cruz,’ ‘Canyon Snow,’ and ‘Baby Blanket.’

‘Premonition of Spring’ flowers from September to April in most regions, though it tends to be a bit more susceptible to diseases. Still, if you want some really great color during the cold months… maybe worth the risk!

The seeds, which form after the flowers fade, attract birds. Plants take about two years to mature and produce these seeds.

Cultivation and History

As I mentioned above, the beautiful Douglas iris and its fellow native iris friends that grow in the region – I. tenax, I. munzii, and I. innominata, among others – were and are valuable to indigenous people living in the region.

The leaves can be processed to remove the fine, silk-like (but extremely tough) fibers that people used to make fishing nets and rope.

Northern Miwok used the leaves to make baskets, while the Pomo used the leaves to cover acorn meal while it was boiling to release the tannins.

Outsiders often fear or misunderstand plants that they aren’t familiar with. Just look at poor nightshade (Solanum nigrum), an edible and valuable vegetable crop in much of the world that was reviled for some time by colonizers in North America.

As with many plants used by indigenous people, the same goes for I. douglasiana. The roots and seeds are edible if processed correctly, but the plant is often described as highly toxic.

For instance, the Monache and Southern Yokuts harvested the tiny seeds and ground them into flour.

The roots, which have a higher concentration of the toxic compound iridin than the rest of the plant, also have their uses.

For instance, the coastal Miwok tribes used dried roots to make a tea to treat kidney stones and to induce vomiting, while the Modoc used a poultice made from boiled root to treat sore eyes. The Yana chewed on the roots to ease the symptoms of a cough.

The raw rhizome has also been used to make a paste to treat all kinds of skin issues, wounds, and sores.

Before you go chomping on the roots of your own plants, a big old note of caution: In large doses, the fresh rhizome is toxic.

Always, always, always cook the roots if you intend to use them internally, and even then, one should only use a small amount. Remember, the tea is used as an emetic agent.

If you have any doubt about positively identifying the species and how to use it, talk to an expert.

It’s always better to be safe than sorry and some iris species contain more of the toxic compounds than others.

You should also keep the root away from cats and dogs, and add to that the leaves when it comes to livestock.

This plant was originally cultivated using seeds that were taken to England in the late 19th century.

By the early 20th century, growers on the West Coast of the US had started hybridizing plants as well. There are even hybrids with Siberian species (I. sibirica) known as Cal-Sibes.

In the past few decades, mountain irises have been even more extensively cultivated to create some gorgeous cultivars and hybrids. We’ll chat about those coming up.

In the meantime, let’s talk about how to propagate these glorious natives.

Propagation

Douglas irises don’t like being moved or replanted, so find a spot for them and stick with it.

From Seed

You can find seeds for sale all over the place, or you can harvest them off of the plant after the blossoms fade. The seeds should be hard and dry before you harvest them.

Keep the seeds in a dry, cool place until you’re ready to start the germination process, and start the process about three months before the last frost date in your region.

Place the seeds in moist sand mixed with equal parts sphagnum moss in a resealable bag or container. Put the seeds in the refrigerator for two months.

Once the seeds begin to germinate, take them out of the refrigerator and put them in individual four-inch pots filled with potting mix. Because they don’t like being transplanted, use biodegradable pots. That way, there’s less root disturbance for the seedlings.

I’m always singing the praises of Cow Pots. I genuinely love and use them constantly.

They’re made out of a super-renewable resource (cow poop!) and they break down into the soil fairly rapidly, which is nice.

If you’ve ever used a peat pot and found that it hadn’t fully broken down a year or more after planting, you know what I mean.

A pot that doesn’t break down fast enough constrains the plant’s roots and causes irregular growth.

CowPots Biodegradable Pots

You can find Cow Pots all over the place, including at Arbico Organics, where they carry packs of 12, 180, or 450. I buy the biggest options every few years, that’s how handy these pots are.

Moisten the medium and plant the seeds about a third of an inch deep.

Place the pots somewhere with a little early morning sunlight and bright, indirect light the rest of the day, or under grow lights for four to six hours a day.

Within a month or so the plants should be a few inches tall. Once the last predicted frost date in your region has passed, you can plant your irises in the garden.

Harden seedlings off by putting them in the spot where you intend to transplant for an hour or so, then take them back inside.

The next day, do the same thing, but leave them out for two hours. Keep adding an hour each day until the plants can stay outside for eight hours.

From Rhizomes

Pacific irises are one of the few rhizomes that can be planted in the early spring and will still produce a big display in their first year. Each plant can spread up to four feet, so plan accordingly.

Plant the rhizome in the ground so the top is about half an inch from the soil surface.

If you have extremely heavy clay soil, you can work in some well-rotted compost to loosen things up a little, but it’s not necessary. The only benefit will be that the plant will grow faster.

Water well and keep an eye on the soil for the first few months. It needs to stay moist as the plant emerges and begins growing.

Once it’s six inches tall or so, it can withstand a little drought, but not before then.

Transplanting

Many nurseries throughout the US carry I. douglasiana seedlings, with several cultivars adapted to areas across the country, not just their native range.

It always helps to check out local nurseries rather than national chains because they usually carry the particular cultivars that will thrive in your particular region.

Once you buy your seedlings, the hardest part of your job is putting them in the ground without disturbing the roots too much.

To do this, prepare the soil before planting. Dig the hole and work in any amendments in advance.

The hole should be at least the size of the container, but twice the width and depth is even better. If you have sandy or heavy clay soil, it helps to work in some well-rotted compost.

Then, gently work the seedling out of the pot by pressing the sides and teasing it out. Plant in the hole you made and water well.

From Divisions

Divisions should be done in the fall or winter in temperate regions, after the plant has had a full growing season to develop and fill its roots with food reserves.

So long as the soil is workable, dig down into the plant to lift up a section a foot wide and deep. You should see several rhizomes in the section you dug up.

Now it’s time to get dirty and use your hands.

Grab a rhizome and gently pull it away from the rest of the plant. Think of this like pulling a wishbone apart. Each rhizome should gently snap away.

You can keep doing this to break apart as many full-sized rhizomes as you want.

Plant them as described above in the section on rhizomes.

Learn more about dividing and transplanting irises in our guide.

How to Grow

Irises can tolerate anything from full shade to full sun, though they’re better off in partial shade or partial sun. In cooler areas, these irises are more sun- and drought-tolerant than in hot regions.

If you live somewhere hot and dry, plant them in full shade.

On the other hand, if you enjoy a somewhat mild climate year-round, like in the areas where this plant grows naturally, partial sun or partial shade will do.

Those in colder areas, like San Francisco, might need to put their plants in full sun.

This plant doesn’t do well in sandy or rocky soils. Rich, slightly clayey soil is best.

That’s right, all you clay soil havers can celebrate! There’s a plant out there that doesn’t just tolerate but thrives in the heavy stuff.

If you have a spot where the runoff from your gutters drains, put these there.

You should water these plants all year round if Mother Nature doesn’t do the work for you. They’re the only evergreen iris species in the West and they grow from fall until the summer heat begins, at which point they go dormant.

These plants need to be moist in the winter. If you have regular snow cover, that’s good enough. Otherwise, add water if you don’t receive enough rain to keep the soil constantly moist.

In the summer, the soil can dry out between watering, though they’ll tolerate anything from moist to dry soil.

If the water is erratic, either extremely wet or extremely dry, some cultivars or hybrids are especially likely to not bloom, or the blossoms will rot just as they’re beginning to bud if they get too wet for too long.

‘Finger Pointing,’ which is an extremely beautiful white hybrid with deep purple borders and veins, is one such example.

In areas with heavy rain, you might want to use a rain screen over plants that you intend to breed. It’s not so much that you want to protect the flowers, which you do, but to allow bees a safe place to pollinate without being pummeled by rain.

Similarly, if you have a hail storm in the forecast during the spring when the blooms are forming, break those rain screens out.

Most Pacific irises need acidic soil and acidic fertilizer to truly thrive, but of all the Pacific irises, I. douglasiana is totally happy in neutral or even alkaline soil.

That’s one of the many reasons it’s such a favored species among those in the Californicae series.

Growing Tips

• Grow in shadier spots in warm regions.
• Provide consistent irrigation for the best flowering display.
• Plants prefer slightly acidic to neutral soil.

Maintenance

Irises like to spread. They’re good at it.

If you have an enclosed area you want to fill, that’s awesome. But if you have a large field where horses graze or you plant the rhizomes next to a well-manicured lawn, it might be a bit less awesome.

Not only do they spread via underground rhizomes, but the seeds spread as well. Keep an eye on any seedlings that pop up and cull them if they’re small, stunted, or otherwise ugly.

While it’s not necessary, your flowers will grow better if you divide them every three to five years. Do this in the late fall or early spring.

Cultivars to Select

Before we talk type, let’s clarify a few of our terms:

Douglas irises have three outer petals that circle the outside of the flower.

These are the largest petals and they have a blaze of color at the bottom center, called a signal. The smaller petals that sit towards the center of the flower are called the standards.

Blue Plate Special

‘Blue Plate Special’ is just that: special. It has broad, round falls in contrast to the usual oval ones.

It gives the overall impression of a big, round blossom. The falls have yellow and white signals, with light blue standards that feature a deep blue halo and blue veins.

It’s such a looker, and unfussy as can be, that it was named the winner of the prestigious Mitchell Award by the American Iris Society in 2012. Expect flowers as early as the first of April.

Broadleigh Sybil

Featuring medium pink falls with a dark rose halo, and yellow signals with deep purple veins, ‘Broadleigh Sybil’ is eye-catching.

The standards on this hybrid, which are particularly narrow, are a pale rosy-biscuit color.

This cultivar stays fairly short at about a foot tall.

Dracularity

With blood red coloring fringed with a hairline pink rim and nearly black veins, ‘Dracularity’ would easily be The Count’s favorite.

The ruffled petals and black signal just add to this foot-tall plant’s dramatic look.

Bred by Mercer Island, Washington resident and prolific iris hybridizer Deborah Cole, this mid-season bloomer was introduced in 1998.

Drive You Wild

‘Drive You Wild’ has deep violet-red petals with golden signals.

It’s such a sturdy stunner that it won the American Iris Society’s Mitchell Award not once, but twice, in 1991 and 1994, with an honorable mention in 1988.

It’s a mid-season bloomer that reaches 10 inches tall when mature.

Oxymoron

Heavily ruffled petals with neon violet signals and yellow styles are highlighted by coppery-orange falls.

This foot tall plant was bred in 2001 and won the honorable mention from the American Iris Society’s Mitchell Award in 2005.

Vain

You’d be vain, too, if you looked like this iris. The falls are bright yellow with a paler yellow to purple signal and dark orange veins. It’s a reliable bloomer on a foot-tall plant.

Managing Pests and Disease

Good news! Herbivores generally ignore this plant, and snails will only nibble on the flowers, but not the leaves.

In fact, I. douglasiana is so unappealing to most critters that you don’t have to stress about deer or rabbits making a meal of it.

That said, farmers find it a nuisance and try to eradicate it from fields where livestock graze.

Remember, the leaves are toxic to livestock and some grazing animals will take a big bite of forage without realizing that they got a mouthful of something bad.

In years when there isn’t much else to eat, deer will nibble young shoots. But once the plant reaches more than a few inches tall, deer won’t bother it.

You can protect young plants with some mesh or chicken wire temporarily.

If you happen to have mountain beavers (Aplodontia rufa) roaming around your property, you’ll have to be a bit more careful. They love these plants.

Maybe just plant a patch for them near their home and you’ll make the wildlife on your property seriously happy.

Insects

This species is less susceptible to pests than many other species of irises.

While the following pests will look for other species before they’ll feed on I. douglasiana, they will still take advantage of the opportunity for a meal.

Aphids

Aphids are only a real problem in large numbers on young plants.

There are numerous species that will feed on lilies, including purple-spotted (Macrosiphum lilii) and mottled arum aphids (Neomyzus circumflexus).

Aphids are generally small and oval-shaped and like to cluster at the leaf joints and flower buds.

If you see them, or the symptoms they cause, which include yellowing leaves and distorted buds, read our guide to learn how to eliminate them.

Iris Borers

If you live west of the Rockies, go ahead and skip this section.

This pest (Macronoctua onusta) mostly hangs out east of the Rockies in Zones 5a and below, which limits how often Douglas irises are exposed to them.

But if you live in an area where iris borers thrive, this is one of the most common and damaging pests you’ll run into.

The dull brown night-flying moth isn’t the problem.

It’s the two-inch-long, pink caterpillars that feed on the leaves and tunnel down into the rhizomes, causing yellowing and browning on the leaves and rot on the roots below ground.

Eventually, the leaves will start to become mushy and rot, too.

Your best bet to avoid this pest is to cut down your plants in the fall so there are no leaves for the eggs to hide and mature in.

A beneficial nematode treatment will do wonders if these pests are already present. You’ll need to treat for at least two years to make sure you kill all the caterpillars.

Don’t bother with chemical pesticides. They aren’t really effective and they kill all the good pests that we need to keep around.

Triple Threat Beneficial Nematodes

Grab some beneficial nematodes at Arbico Organics.

They sell a pack with three different species, all of which have been shown to reduce M. onusta populations, in five, 10, 50, 250, or 500 million counts.

Disease

Because this plant is so tolerant of a variety of environmental conditions, it’s better able to withstand the pathogens that attack many other species.

If you plant in a good spot and treat your plant right, it’s unlikely you’ll ever encounter these. But just in case:

Rhizome Rot

If your plants begin to collapse, dig up a rhizome and give it a look. Is it rotten, soft, and brown or black? It’s probably succumbed to the bacteria Pectobacterium carotovorum, which causes root rot.

There isn’t a good treatment available so it’s best to dig up the plant and leave the soil fallow for a year. Don’t compost the debris – toss it in the garbage.

Rust

The fungus Puccinia iridis exists around the globe and attacks all species of iris, but I. douglasiana is often visited by the fungus.

When rust is present, it causes small yellow dots with brown centers. Eventually, with enough spots, a leaf can’t function properly and it dies. If enough leaves die, the plant will, too.

This fungus needs water to thrive, so it looks for plants in shady areas with poor air circulation. If the plants are watered overhead on the foliage rather than at the soil level, even better!

Best Uses

Because these flowers grow compact and low to the ground, you can use them as a ground cover.

They’ll keep spreading until you stop them. They’re also ideal for boggy areas, like where your rain spouts drain or near ponds.

If you’re trying to fill a meadow or wildflower garden, toss some of these in. They even work in rock gardens so long as you provide moisture in the winter and remove rocks from the soil itself.

They can also make a nice, low border for the edge of a garden.

Quick Reference Growing Guide

Plant Type:	Rhizomatous flowering perennial	Flower / Foliage Color:	White, yellow, pink, orange, purple/green
Native to:	North America	Soil Type:	Clay to loamy sand
Hardiness (USDA Zone):	6-10	Soil pH:	6.0-7.5
Bloom Time:	Spring, summer, fall	Soil Drainage:	Poor to well-draining
Exposure:	Full shade to full sun	Attracts:	Birds, bees, butterflies
Spacing:	2 feet	Companion Planting:	Columbine, lupines, pansies, violets
Planting Depth:	1/3 inch (seed), 1/2 inch (rhizome)	Avoid Planting With:	Plants with low water needs like cacti and succulents
Height:	2 feet	Uses:	Rock gardens, ground cover, wetlands, ponds, meadows
Spread:	4 feet	Family:	Iridaceae
Growth Rate:	Moderate	Genus:	Iris
Water Needs:	Moderate (winter), low (summer)	Subgenus:	Limniris
Maintenance:	Low	Section:	Limniris
Tolerance:	Some drought, shade, heavy clay	Series:	Californicae
Common Pests and Disease:	Aphids, iris borers; rhizome rot, rust	Species:	Douglasiana

Elegant Douglas Irises Fill Those Tough Garden Spots

I don’t know about you, but I have a heck of a time trying to fill up the shadier spots in my garden, especially those with clay soil.

And finding something that looks really striking and beautiful? Even more difficult.

These fit the bill.

Plus, you gotta love a native plant that makes the wildlife in your area happy. You’re welcome, mountain beavers!

I think the biggest challenge with these plants is picking just one or two cultivars. Which ones will you grow? Let us know in the comments.

Ready to expand your iris knowledge? We have several other guides that you might find useful:

Petunia × hybrida

If you held a flower popularity contest, petunias would certainly come away with a prize.

Beloved for their masses of colorful blooms and their easy-care nature, these plants are South American natives that have definitely found a home in North America.

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Gardeners appreciate the petunia’s multi-hued utility. It’s lovely as a specimen plant, in mass bedding plantings, or particularly in containers, with bloom-laden stems trailing over the sides of pots.

With single or double trumpet-shaped blooms in pink, purple, red, yellow, or white, this flower is often called upon to add vibrancy to the garden from spring until fall.

If their heat tolerance, or long blooming season sound good to you, maybe it’s time to start growing your own color-popping petunias.

We’ll cover the steps and strategies that will help to make the growing process go smoothly for you – and help your petunias stay healthy and continue to bloom all season long.

Here’s the lineup:

Cultivation and History

Part of the Solanaceae family, which includes tomatoes and tomatillos, petunias are divided into several groups that include grandiflora, multiflora, milliflora, floribunda, and ground cover types.

Learn more about the distinctions between these types here.

There are 35 known species of petunia, and virtually all of the ones you might grow as a home gardener are hybrids. The splashy bloomers are native to South America.

In the early 1500s, when Spanish explorers found the low-growing white-flowered type in South America, they didn’t find it all that appealing, and so went about their merry way after naming it “Petun,” approximately translating to “worthless tobacco plant.”

The flower made its move from the rainforest environment to the garden bed after the French brought a sample of the vine to Spain in 1823.

In 1831, Scottish explorer John Tweedie found another variety, now known as P. violacea, and took some of the purple-flowered specimens back with him to the Glasgow Botanical Gardens.

From there, plant breeders from England, the US, Germany, and Japan have been on a quest to develop new and better hybrids in new colors and various bloom sizes. By 1934, Japanese breeders had succeeded in developing varieties with double blooms.

Wave petunias are a more recent innovation. In 1995, the Ball Seed Company introduced its Wave series of cultivars, and these are among the most popular varieties available today. The company has since broadened its line to include Tidal Wave, Double Wave, Easy Wave, and Shock Wave cultivars.

Already have a favorite type? Or do you just want to learn more about these popular bedding and basket plants? Let’s dive right in to explore the best ways to grow and care for petunias.

Propagation

It’s a thoughtful Mother’s Day tradition to buy a mostly-grown petunia plant that’s already blooming riotously and present it as a gift.

The fully-grown plants are also a solid option for filling containers for the summer patio, or even planting in a bare patch of garden.

But if you’d like to grow and care for the plants from an earlier stage, that’s also gratifying and can cost less than buying the pre-planted annual baskets.

Here are the top ways to propagate petunias:

Start Seeds Indoors

Like the wax begonia, petunias can be tricky to grow from seed. The seeds are tiny and have quite specific propagation requirements.

And this process takes a while, so be sure to confirm that you’ll have enough time. Start eight to 10 weeks ahead of your area’s average last frost to assure spring blooms.

Prepare a shallow container of pre-moistened seed-starting mix, or several small pots if you plan to keep the petunias in these containers for the rest of the growing season. Each should have drainage holes and a tray to catch excess water.

You’ll basically just press the seeds into the top of the mix, spacing them about an inch apart and scattering 1/8 inch of seed starting mix over the top.

Water the containers thoroughly and allow them to drain, discarding any excess water. Then cover the top of the container with plain old plastic wrap, and place it in a sunny windowsill.

Look for sprouts in seven to 10 days, and be sure to remove the plastic and position those seedlings beneath a strong grow light or on a sunny windowsill immediately.

If you’ve used a shallow tray, transplant the individual seedlings into their own small containers with good drainage once they’ve grown a set of true leaves. Thin the seedlings according to the spacing recommended on your seed packet.

Keep them moist until you’re ready to plant them outdoors, but never allow the soil to become waterlogged. The best temperature for indoor care is around 75°F.

Sow Seeds Outdoors

Direct-sowing seeds in a garden bed, outdoor container, or in the ground only works in the warm weather in USDA Hardiness Zones 9 to 11, where you can grow petunias as perennials.

Otherwise, it takes too long for the weather to be warm enough for seeds to germinate while still allowing the 10 to 16 weeks of warm weather they need to grow large enough to bloom.

If you are in one of these warmer areas, make sure to cultivate the soil down to at least six inches ahead of planting.

When you’re sowing into a container, make sure you use a growing medium formulated for container flowers. Ordinary garden soil won’t drain well or provide enough nutrients for these plants.

Other than that, proceed the same way you would if you were starting the seeds indoors. Just be sure to keep the soil and the seedlings evenly moist without allowing the soil to become too soggy.

Find more tips on growing from seed here.

Root Cuttings

To be both frugal and creative, why not propagate some petunias from cuttings? This approach offers the advantage of new plants that look (and bloom) like the parent plant you can see before your very eyes.

So if you know someone with a petunia you admire or have one growing yourself, you can proceed to propagate clones from cuttings by filling a two- or three-inch-wide container with about two inches of the pre-moistened seed-starting medium.

Many containers will work well here, including old yogurt cups and peat pots. Just make sure the pot has drainage holes at the bottom, or plan to cut some if you need to.

Cut a six-inch-long stem from a healthy, stocky plant.

With your fingers, gently remove the leaves from the lower half of the stalk, starting from the end that you have cut, opposite the terminal end.

Jab the cut edge about half an inch into the soil, and place the container somewhere warm that receives at least six hours of sun each day. The kitchen windowsill is ordinarily a suitable spot.

Keep the soil moist but not soggy throughout the rooting process. Generally, roots will start forming in about 10 days, maybe sooner.

Let the cuttings become established indoors for about six weeks, or until they’ve started producing new growth, before transplanting outside.

Transplanting Seedlings and Nursery Starts

You’ll want to wait until the soil is at least 60°F and all danger of frost has passed before you transplant seedlings or nursery starts outdoors.

It’s important to harden off the young plants before exposing them to the wind, increased sunlight, and cooler temperatures outdoors. Nursery-grown plants shouldn’t need hardening off.

Place the containers in an area sheltered by a wall or cold frame for an hour on the first day, and increase the duration spent outdoors by an hour or two for a few days, until they can spend a full day outside.

Move the containers gradually into full sun in their final location.

To transplant, work the soil down at least six inches and amend it with organic matter like mushroom compost.

Plant each seedling or nursery start in a hole the same size as its container, making sure the top of the root ball is even with the soil surface. Backfill around the roots and tamp the soil with your palm, firming it gently.

Make sure to water as soon as you’ve transplanted, and keep the soil consistently moist until the plants have adjusted to their new homes.

Many gardeners like the visual effect of planting seedlings in groups of three, especially when you’re growing them in larger containers or window boxes.

In garden borders, you can allow just four to six inches of space between miliflora types; multfloras and grandifloras will need to be planted 12 inches apart if you’re growing them in full sun – in shadier locations you can allow just six to eight inches.

Provide ground cover types 12 to 18 inches of space between plants to give them room to spread.

You’ll find more information on fertilizing plants below. But keep this tip in mind:

For petunias grown in hanging baskets or other types of containers, it saves time and effort to add a teaspoon of time-release granular fertilizer to each hole ahead of placing your transplants.

That way, you don’t have to continually bring them down to your level to add applications of liquid fertilizer.

How to Grow

If you’re buying petunias as bedding plants, be sure to bring home healthy stock from the nursery or home store.

Look for starts with stocky, strong stems that branch laterally, instead of just growing straight up on a single stalk.

While the best plants will display an abundance of buds, you don’t want to buy starts that are already in full bloom. If you do, they may have difficulty adjusting to transplanting, or they may finish flowering way too soon.

Don’t purchase bedding plants that have yellowed leaves or holes, or spots left behind by bugs. And be sure to look into the drainage holes to make sure the roots are bright white, not brown or slimy.

Give them a sniff, to make sure you don’t detect that unmistakable odor of root rot.

To encourage petunias to flower profusely, situate them in an area that gets at least six hours of sun each day. They can flower in indirect light, but they’ll never become the show-stopping bloomers you’re looking for if they aren’t grown in full sun.

They do just fine in any type of well-draining soil, but their preferred pH is 6.0 to 7.0, or slightly acidic to neutral.

Throughout early spring, be extra attentive to the threat of a late frost, and cover the plants with frost cloth ahead of time to protect them. Be sure to remove any coverings with the return of warm weather.

Petunias will benefit when you pinch the top inch or so of the stalks back while the plants are still four or five inches tall, and not yet blooming. This will encourage each seedling to branch instead of getting leggy.

Once they’ve gotten established, you can move into maintenance mode. Read more about ongoing care for petunia plants in the next section.

Growing Tips

• For abundant blooms, grow in full sun.
• Choose suitable potting mix and avoid average garden soil when growing petunias in containers.
• Keep an eye on the weather forecast in spring and protect young seedlings when late frost is predicted.

Maintenance and Pruning

Once petunias are established, it’s relatively simple to keep them growing and flowering. These are the most important maintenance tasks:

Watering

These plants require at least an inch or two of water every seven to 10 days. If the rain doesn’t provide it, you should. Be careful to water at the soil line, not from overhead.

It’s important to water deeply. If you water often, providing just a little, you’ll encourage the roots to become shallow.

That makes it hard for the plants to take up enough water to survive, and it also requires you to water far more often than you would otherwise.

When you’re growing container varieties, you may need to water every day during the hot summer, especially if you chose a clay pot, which won’t retain much moisture to speak of.

Make sure you’re giving the plants ample water each time you hydrate, pouring it on until you see it draining out of the holes in the bottom of the container.

The finite amounts of soil in a container can’t hold as much water as the ground, but you still don’t want it to get too soggy either.

Fertilizing

To stay healthy during that months-long blooming marathon, petunias need a dose of diluted liquid fertilizer, provided once every month or so while they’re flowering. Select a balanced product (10-10-10 NPK).

You can apply this with the water you use to hydrate the soil, or as a foliar spray, following the manufacturer’s instructions.

Deadheading

It’s not necessary to clip or pinch dead flowers from petunias with smaller or single blooms, and you’ll probably want to skip all the bending and crawling if you’ve planted them in a low garden bed or as ground cover.

But you may want to deadhead spent blooms regularly in containers and hanging baskets that are situated near living spaces. This will keep the plants tidier and looking more attractive, along with encouraging more blooms.

The varieties with large or double blooms are also far too glamorous to be sporting dead blossoms, so be sure to clip them off whenever you think of it. They make fine additions to the compost too, by the way.

Pruning

Even if you do pinch back small plants as described above, petunias will tend to get leggy and stop forming as many blooms as the summer wears on.

At this point, you’ll want to do the standard pruning, clipping the shoots back by about a third of their height, or almost all the way down to the ground if it’s needed.

Don’t go too far, though. The plant that’s left will still need some of its leaves to photosynthesize so it can grow back.

There’s no point in pruning with just a couple weeks left before the first frost. But if you make these cuts in late summer, your petunias may produce an entire second round of healthy stems and beautiful flowers.

Cultivars to Select

There are so many fun, colorful, long-blooming, easy-to-care for types of petunia that you could grow them for decades without ever planting the same one twice.

Here’s a sample of what’s available, to get you started:

Grandiflora Daddy Series

This popular collection of cultivars produces 12- to 15-inch plants with four-inch ruffled blooms in a variety of colors with an attractive veined pattern.

Daddy Series Blue

Pelleted seed is so much easier to plant than the tiny individual seeds, and True Leaf Market has packets of 1,000 pelleted seeds available in blue (which is more of a purple than a true blue), orchid, pink and white ‘Peppermint,’ multicolored ‘Sugar,’ pink, red, or a mix of several colors.

Spellbound Blush

Fancy! If you want a bodacious, over-the-top petunia right from the start, here you go. Spellbound ‘Blush’ boasts four- to six-inch flowers that are white/blush and frilly on the perimeter, with painterly, dark purple centers.

This hybrid cultivar stands tall without drooping and is known to tolerate rain on its blooms without a problem.

Spellbound ‘Blush’

And if you’re torn between growing starts or trying your hand at sowing seeds indoors, Spellbound ‘Blush’ is available in both 15-seed packets and four-packs of live plants from Burpee.

Wave Series

If you’d like to plant your own Mother’s Day hanging basket, a group of mounding petunias to cover a bare spot, or some pots of Wave petunias for the patio, live starts are available from Burpee.

Wave Series

Their collection, sold in bundles of 18 starts, includes three top spreading varieties: Purple Wave, Easy Wave ‘Red,’ and Shock Wave ‘Denim.’

Managing Pests and Disease

The most difficult aspects of growing petunias are getting them established and keeping them watered, while pests and diseases rarely present problems.

Here are the most likely culprits if you do notice damaged or sickly plants:

Herbivores

These ornamental plants are considered a delicacy by numerous woodland creatures. Rabbits will nosh on the foliage and flowers and so will deer, as well as mice and other rodents.

Placing row covers over the starts at planting time may help to protect them, as will constructing barriers or fences aimed at deterring whichever pests are prevalent in your area.

Gardeners also report success planting all varieties except for ground cover types in elevated locations where rabbits, voles, and the like won’t have access to them.

For more info on protecting your bedding plants and blooms from rabbits, see our guide. We also offer step-by-step instructions for building a deer fence.

Insects

Just a few common garden bugs might cause a little trouble, but usually nothing devastating.

Caterpillars

Tomato hornworms, yellow wooly bears, and other types of caterpillars may decide to make a meal of your petunias.

Usually, if you notice them, you can simply pick them off and dispose of them without involving any chemicals.

Some caterpillars that might strike are solitary, so it’s not like they’re doing too much damage on their own. Others are the pupae of beautiful butterflies so you might want to leave them alone.

It’s up to you, but you may want to forgo eliminating just a few caterpillars if they’re not doing much damage.

Control a more widespread infestation with neem oil, such as this product from Garden Safe that’s available via Amazon.

Garden Safe Neem Oil

Mixed at home with just one ounce per gallon of water, this 16-ounce concentrated product will yield 16 gallons of treatment.

Liquid Bt can also be used to control caterpillars. If you spot them munching leaves and leaving black dots of frass scattered around, mix up a solution of Bacillus thuringiensis and water in a spray bottle according to package directions, shake, and spray onto the plants.

A few other bugs can present problems. While serious infestations aren’t common, you’ll want to keep an eye out for aphids, leaf miners, and thrips.

We have the details on identifying, deterring, and preventing each of these insects in our complete petunia pest control guide.

Diseases

Petunias commonly grown by home gardeners are by and large hybrids that have been bred to be disease resistant.

You can further discourage disease by eliminating the insects that spread infectious pathogens – especially aphids – and providing ample air circulation.

Still, you may encounter a few ailments, particularly if you’re growing in ultra-humid conditions or haven’t given the plants enough space.

Here are the main diseases you may need to tackle:

Aster Yellows

This odd ailment causes abnormal growths that resemble little green flowers bursting out of the petunia blooms. The disease may be caused by a number of phytoplasmas, which are pathogens similar to bacteria.

To deter this disease, take care of leafhoppers in the garden, which are the main carriers. For more info, check out our guide to identifying and treating aster yellows.

Damping Off

A fungus or water mold is at fault if your young plants succumb to damping off. Rhizoctonia, Fusarium, or Pythium species will attack young seedlings at the root, and the damage is always deadly.

Learn more about damping off and find prevention tips in our guide.

Powdery Mildew

The fungus Erysiphe cichoracearum creates powdery mildew, which makes the plants look as if white flour has been sprinkled on the leaves.

Powdery mildew is most common when you grow petunias in dry, warm climates.

Stop it before it starts with tips from our guide.

Turnip Mosaic Virus

No, that’s not a typo. This disease that afflicts turnips and other vegetables can also strike and kill petunias, particularly young bedding plants purchased from nurseries.

It causes yellow spots on the leaves or possibly larger, light green splotches. This virus is spread by aphids, so controlling them as part of your integrated pest management strategy is key to preventing infections.

Find more details about detecting and preventing turnip mosaic virus in our guide.

Best Uses

You will run out of space and budget long before you exhaust all the available ways to employ petunias to your advantage!

The only caveat is this:

Remember they need full sun to be at their healthy, blooming best.

If you can meet that condition, they’ll add eye-popping color to hanging baskets, container gardens, and window boxes.

Try pairing the varieties that bloom in blue or purple with silvery foliage like dusty miller, or cascading ornamental grasses.

In the garden, the shorter versions with smaller blooms are appealing in the front of a border. Ground cover varieties can fill up a bare spot on a hill, beneath a bird bath, or around a mature hardwood tree in a hurry – if they can get enough sun, that is.

They even provide a service in the vegetable garden, growing well with members of the nightshade family and brassicas, and attracting pollinators for all nearby plants that might benefit.

Or try these sweet, bright hybrids in a cottage garden design, or as a colorful screen in areas where springtime bulbs have bloomed and then faded.

Quick Reference Growing Guide

Plant Type:	Flowering annual (or perennial in some zones)	Flower / Foliage Color:	Blue, coral, magenta, pink, purple, red, white, yellow, multicolored/green
Native to:	South America	Tolerance:	Heat
Hardiness (USDA Zone):	9-11	Soil Type:	Fertile, organically-rich
Bloom Time:	Spring, summer, early autumn	Soil pH:	6.0-7.0
Exposure:	Full sun	Soil Drainage:	Well-draining
Spacing:	6-18 inches, depending on type	Attracts:	Bees and other beneficial insects, butterflies, hummingbirds
Planting Depth:	Soil surface (seeds); top of root ball even with the soil (transplants)	Companion Planting:	Brassicas, dusty miller, nightshades, ornamental grasses
Height:	6-18 inches	Uses:	Beds, borders, containers, cottage gardens, edging, ground cover, hanging baskets, window boxes
Spread:	18–48 inches	Family:	Solanaceae
Water Needs:	Moderate	Genus:	Petunia
Maintenance	Low	Species:	Various, mostly hybrids (x hybrida)
Common Pests:	Aphids, budworms, cyclamen mites, leafhoppers, deer, mice and other rodents, rabbits, spider mites, thrips	Common Diseases:	Aster yellows, bacterial fasciation, botrytis, damping off, powdery mildew

Colors Pop All Summer with Petunias

No matter where you plant them or which variety you select, petunias add blooming color to your outdoor space starting in spring and continuing until the first frost.

Do you have any favorite types of this popular ornamental, or ingenious ways to use them in your garden design?

The comments section below awaits your input, whether you’re sharing tips or asking questions. And be sure to include photos if you have them!

For more information on this versatile, long-blooming annual (or perennial!), check out these petunia guides next:

Adding depth and flavor to countless savory dishes, these healthful bulbs can be grown and enjoyed in almost any climate.

Let’s find out why this centerpiece of gastronomy is an absolute must-have in your garden. Not only is it incredibly easy to grow and a delight to devour, there could be some healthy, healing perks in it for you, too.

What Is Garlic?

Garlic is deemed a cultigen – the species we use in the kitchen is not known in the wild, but evolved over millennia of human cultivation. Its closest wild relatives are native to the Asian steppes, with cultivation beginning some 7,000 years ago.

A bulbous perennial, garlic is a species in the genus Allium, with close cousins including chives, leeks, onions, and shallots. It grows 18 to 24 inches tall, and the head, or bulb, is a storage organ used for fuel reserves to prepare for adverse and wintery conditions.

Adaptable to many growing conditions, garlic is hardy in USDA Zones 4 to 9.

The flat, grass-like leaves and segmented bulbs are highly aromatic, and typically grown as an annual in herb and vegetable gardens.

After a few months, hardneck varieties form a flower stalk known as a scape, which is followed by large, umbel flowers. Softnecks occasionally form scapes as well.

If left to grow, the umbels – or flower heads – open to reveal showy, star shaped blooms in shades of pink and white. Blooming in late spring, they attract pollinators such as butterflies, bees, and ladybugs.

The seeds form into small bulbils, which look like tiny garlic cloves on the end of the scape. Genetically, these are identical to the parent plant, and there will be no cross pollination between different varieties grown together.

While you can grow from these seeds, propagation from mature cloves is the preferred method, having the best success rate and usually resulting in larger bulbs.

While growth is simple and straightforward, garlic’s signature taste is bold and complex – one of the reasons why it’s beloved in almost every global cuisine.

Generally, there are two different varieties of garlic to consider. Either softneck varieties, A. sativum, or hardneck varieties, A. sativum var. ophioscorodon.

Which is best for your garden? Let’s look at the differences.

Softnecks (A. sativum)

Often thought of as “true” garlic, softnecks account for most of what you’ll find at the supermarket. This is because they are more productive, easier to grow – especially in warm climates, and they store for longer.

They’re called softnecks because their above-ground stalks will flop over in the summer, a sign that they are ready to harvest.

The fun perk of softnecks? You can braid them together for kitchen use and decoration, after the bulbs are pulled and cured!

Within garlic’s sizable family tree, this category contains more groupings and cultivars. The kind you choose can impact certain traits – like color, bulb size, clove size, flavor profile, cold tolerance, and storage capacity.

Hardnecks (A. sativum var. ophioscorodon)

True to their name, hardnecks have stalks that will remain upright and rigid, even when they die back.

It’s harder to braid hardnecks, but you get a different bonus from this subspecies: the delicious scapes, or flower stems and buds, a culinary darling that we’ll get to later!

The rewarding payoff is more variety and depth of flavor and color, as well as larger bulb sizes, so it could well be worth the extra effort of growing these if you live in an appropriate growing zone.

While all types are reputed to have some powerful healing properties, there is a catch – you must consume it raw. This is because, when crushed, garlic produces a compound called allicin, which takes about ten minutes to develop.

Some studies, like this review from the Avicenna Journal of Phytomedicine published in 2014, show that allicin exhibits powerful antibiotic and antimicrobial effects, such as killing bacteria, viruses, and fungi.

However, most of the allicin oxidizes quickly and antimicrobial properties dissipate – hence the need for quick consumption for maximum benefits. It also loses its effectiveness when heated above 140°F.

This means you won’t find these fantastic antimicrobial properties in dried powder, or even in cooked cloves from your own garden.

Nonetheless, something that’s so easy to grow, and with such amazing flavor, is truly worth your while!

Cultivation and History

Garlic has a long and storied history. An extensive, multicultural tale of epic proportions, in its wild form, it was first used as a food source by our foraging ancestors.

Domesticated and cultivated in the Middle East some 7,000 years ago, the ancient Greeks, Romans, Egyptians, Chinese, Indians, and numerous others embraced it as an irreplaceable condiment, food, and even medicine.

The first recorded reference circa 1550 BC is found in the “Codex Ebers,” a medical text used by priests in ancient Egypt.

Purportedly grown in the hanging gardens of Babylon, the locals referred to it as a “rank rose” – a similar term of endearment used today is that of the “stinking rose!”

Here are some interesting historical tidbits:

In India, it was an important and powerful Ayurvedic remedy – Ayurveda being a healing tradition that is still practiced today, utilizing both food and herbs as medicine.

Propagation

Garlic can be grown from the seeds; however, this method is considered difficult and unreliable.

Annual growth from cloves, the individual bulb pieces, is the preferred propagation method of both commercial growers and the home gardener.

From your our own harvested stock, use the largest bulbs for replanting and the smaller ones in the kitchen.

Purchased bulbs should come from your local garden center or reputable online garden supply vendors – and not the grocery store.

The ones from supermarket can grow. But they’re often sprayed with chemicals to prevent them from sprouting on store shelves. And they haven’t been hand-selected for disease resistance, size, and other characteristics that gardeners and farmers want for growing purposes.

Check out our cultivars section below for suggestions.

Choose large, firm bulbs free from brown patches, soft spots, or shriveling, and with the exterior paper tunic still intact.

Read more about propagating garlic here.

How to Grow

One of the first crops to emerge in spring, garlic thrives in well-draining, fertile soil with a loamy texture, and requires full sun to produce the biggest bulbs.

Vernalization

Hardneck varieties require a period of vernalization (winter cold exposure) before or after sowing. The ideal conditions to stimulate bulb formation require exposure to 40 to 50°F temperatures for a period of six to 12 weeks over the winter months.

Vernalization occurs naturally in regions with cold winters, but in milder areas, several weeks of storage in the produce drawer of your refrigerator will provide the required temperatures and humidity levels.

Softneck varieties are better suited for growing in warm climates, but they also perform better with a period of vernalization. Refrigerator storage for eight to 12 weeks before sowing produces the largest bulbs.

Look for bulbs that have been pre-chilled at the nursery to save time. These will be ready to plant.

Cloves can be planted in spring or fall, but bulbs from fall sown garlic tend to be larger with deeper, more complex flavors than those sown in spring.

Fall sowing is optimal in September and October in most regions, with the end of November being a typical cut-off date for planting.

Spring sowing is not recommended because bulb formation halts in hot temperatures, and garlic requires a long growth period. However, if you must sow in spring, March provides a small window of opportunity if your local conditions permit sowing at that time.

Planting

When sown in fall, plants lay down roots until the ground freezes. This late growing period gives them a nice head start, with explosive growth triggered by warm spring temperatures.

Till the soil deeply, and amend with plenty of compost or well-rotted manure.

Garlic must be grown in well-draining soil, and excessive moisture is the leading cause of disease. A raised bed improves drainage and can be beneficial in areas with high rainfall levels or heavy soil.

A pH of 6.0 to 7.5 is preferred, and lime should be added several weeks before planting if the pH is lower than 6.0.

Separate the bulbs carefully into individual cloves with the skins still intact.

Set each one approximately two inches deep in the soil, with the flat end down and the pointed tip placed about one to two inches deep. Space four to six inches apart in rows, or grouped in pockets.

Plant a little deeper if heavy rains or heaving frosts might expose the cloves, and a bit shallower in heavy soils or when using a thick mulch after planting.

Once all the cloves are in place, fill in the rows or planting holes with loose soil and firm lightly. Avoid compacting the soil.

Fertilize only after growth starts in spring, then every 30 days until the end of May.

Use an all-purpose fertilizer with an NPK ratio of 5-5-5 or 10-10-10. This is the ratio of nitrogen to phosphorus to potassium, the main macronutrients required for plants to grow.

Broadcast granular fertilizer over the bed, or work it in as a side dressing. Don’t over fertilize, as this can result in too much top growth with under-developed bulbs.

Bulbs require only moderate to average water levels, and benefit from a thick, six-inch layer of dry mulch such as clean straw, evergreen boughs, or fern fronds added when you plant them.

In winter, mulch provides protection against cold temperatures and drying winds. In summer, adding a layer of mulch helps to retain moisture, maintains cool soil temperatures, and keeps weeds down.

Garlic tends to struggle in tropical and sub-tropical growing zones, due to excessive humidity, moisture, and rainfall.

In Zone 8 and higher, garlic can be grown year-round – conditions here are ideal for softneck varieties that require little or no winter covering.

In Zone 7 and lower, hardnecks are a better option, thanks to their cold hardiness. These varieties do require a winter mulch, to develop the healthiest plants.

Growing Tips

The following tips will help you to enjoy the best harvest possible:

• Remove scapes before flowering to concentrate energy in the bulb. But don’t discard them – they’re delicious sauteed or stir-fried!
• Prevent premature sprouting in warm spells with a thick mulch to keep bulbs cool.
• Use mulch to keep weeds down, and hand weed between plants to avoid disturbing bulbs.
• When a bit more than half of the lower leaves have yellowed, withered, and died, bulbs are ready for harvest.

Managing Pests and Disease

Though trouble from pests is uncommon, garlic can suffer from various diseases. Look for resistant varieties when you do your shopping, and plant the appropriate type of garlic for your growing zone for the best results.

According to Michelle M. Moyer at The Plant Disease Diagnostic Clinic at Cornell University, the following are the most common diseases to watch out for when growing garlic:

Basal Rot (Fusarium culmorum)

Basal rot often shows as yellowing, followed by dieback of the leaves and/or a white growth around the bulb base.

A soil borne fungus, avoid planting wounded or damaged cloves, and rotate allium crops annually to reduce the chance of infection.

Downy Mildew (Peronospora destructor)

White spots and fuzz form on plants, hampering growth potential.

Downy mildew is usually the result of overly damp environments, or plants spaced too closely together. Provide excellent drainage, proper spacing, and adequate air circulation to avoid welcoming conditions.

Penicillium Decay (Penicillium hirsutum)

This fungal infection is the result of poor storage of seed stock, and planting wounded or bruised cloves.

To prevent an infection, dry your seed cloves thoroughly, using the methods that we’ll get to later in this article.

White Rot (Sclerotium cepivorum)

This disease is exhibited by fluffy, fuzzy fungal growth on the stem and bulb of plants that quickly causes them to rot and die.

Avoid re-sowing in plots with the disease if you notice an infection – white rot can last in the soil for two decades – and remove infected plants quickly. Heat treating seed cloves in hot water – “hot” meaning 100 to 115°F, but NOT over 120°F – can prevent pathogen spread.

Harvesting

The garlic harvest typically starts a few weeks after summer begins, if you have planted in the fall. Hot summer weather triggers bulb maturation, shutting down foliage growth in preparation for dormancy.

A couple of indicators will let you know when your bulbs are ready for harvest:

One is when a bit more than half of the lower leaves turn yellow and dry out. Hardneck varieties will have leaves that brown and dry, but retain an upright flower stem. With softnecks, all of the leaves will flop over as bulbs mature.

Or, you can dig up a couple of bulbs around mid-July and check their size. If they’re as big as you hoped, it’s time to pull them out!

After late July, there is very little chance they’ll continue to grow. You can wait until August or even September to see if they’ll get a little bigger, but it won’t be much. By September at the latest, it’s time to pull your bulbs no matter what.

To harvest, loosen the soil around and under the roots with a garden fork or hand trowel. Provide up to 12 inches of ease out from the plant stem to avoid damaging bulbs.

Gently grasp the neck of each plant close to the bulb and work it out of the soil. Avoid pulling hard on the leaves if the bulbs are resistant. Instead, work your fingers under the base of the bulb and gently lift to release from the soil.

Brush off any excess soil and clip roots close to the bulb to prepare for curing and storage.

Read more about harvesting garlic here.

Curing and Storing

Curing is the term for the thorough drying required for flavors to develop fully, and it helps to ensure a long storage life, free from discoloration and rot.

However, you can eat garlic as soon as it’s pulled. Just clean, peel, and enjoy – no need to wait to complete the curing process! Freshly harvested garlic typically has a milder flavor than cured bulbs.

You can even pull up whole plants in spring, preparing and eating the undeveloped bulbs like leeks. This is called “green garlic,” something you might see at restaurants or farmers markets, and it makes a delicious alternative to the bulb type.

Both leaves and immature bulbs are edible.

For long-term storage, try the following:

Bulbs can be dried whole with the scapes still attached and braided into attractive bunches. Or, you can clip them off after harvest – just make sure you leave seven or more inches of stalk attached to the bulb, which will help it to cure by drawing moisture away from the cloves.

If the stalk still feels moist and pliant, allow bulbs to cure for another week or two before storing.

Hang tied bunches in a dark, dry area with good air circulation.

If you clipped your garlic instead, store it in loose piles in containers that permit airflow – preferably in breathable crates, boxes, or shelves. Bamboo steamers make handy storage containers for bulbs.

Curing can take anywhere from four to six weeks. Check the progress daily – once the paper-like skin starts to peel away but the cloves still feel firm, you’ll know they’re ready.

You can then cut off any leftover plant material and store as you like – in a dry basket in a cool, dark cupboard, or in a paper bag in the fridge.

And to make your harvest really last, do one last important step – sort your garlic!

Being careful to keep them intact and without breaking them up into cloves, set aside the largest heads in a dark and dry place for use as seed next year. Use the smaller ones in your cooking.

Read more about curing and storing garlic here.

Recipes and Cooking Ideas

One of the best and most obvious reasons to grow it in your own backyard is for culinary purposes!

Here are a few cooking ideas to feature your homegrown garlic:

Crush, slice, mince, chop, or throw whole cloves into your desired dish for a punch of added flavor. Garlic makes a pivotal contribution to the flavor of soups, stews, and broths.

You can also roast whole heads, making them into a delicious spread for bread, or a garnish for protein dishes, roasted vegetables, or homemade pizza.

Garlic is a staple ingredient in pesto, along with basil, pine nuts, olive oil, and cheese. The flavorful scapes make an excellent addition, too.

You’ll love the rich, savory flavor of grilled vegetables with balsamic vinegar and garlic. Get the recipe on our sister site, Foodal.

For a flavorful side dish, these parsley mashed potatoes are the smoothest and the creamiest. Get the recipe now on Foodal.

For the ultimate French fry or veggie dip, try Foodal’s homemade garlic aioli – it’s full of delicious flavor.

When it’s game day, be sure to try these Italian-style wings with basil and Parmesan cheese. But make lots, they’re always a hit! You can find the recipe on Foodal.

Health and Healing

For the very best health benefits, enjoy the cloves raw as often as you can – it can be a challenge, though! Raw cloves can have an overwhelming flavor and heat, and consuming them might cause indigestion or stomach cramps in some individuals, so be cautious.

Some studies (like this one) have found, however, that a cold-water press of the cloves, such as in a warm or cold tea, can retain some allicin, and may work as a mild antimicrobial tisane. It would be nowhere near as powerful as the fresh stuff, though!

According to this study, consuming garlic regularly as a culinary herb provides allicin and other beneficial phytonutrients that may boost health and immunity.

The bulbs also contain another potent compound called ajoene, with some studies pointing to its anti-tumor and diabetes management possibilities.

Among herbalists and alternative medicine practitioners, there is a lengthy tradition behind garlic’s use as a topical antiseptic, cold and flu fighter, digestive healer, and tonic – and it’s still employed by some naturopaths for combating various ailments, even stomach ulcers and parasites.

Quick Reference Growing Guide

Plant Type:	Bulb, allium vegetable	Water Needs:	Moderate
Native to:	Middle Asia	Maintenance:	Low
Hardiness (USDA Zone):	4-9	Soil Type:	Rich and loamy
Season:	Spring or fall	Soil pH:	6.0-7.5
Exposure:	Full sun	Soil Drainage:	Well-draining
Time to Maturity:	240+ days for fall planting, 90+ days for spring planting	Companion Planting:	Roses, raspberries, herbs, vegetables
Spacing:	4-6 inches	Avoid Planting With:	Peas and beans
Planting Depth:	2-4 inches	Attracts:	Butterflies and ladybugs
Height:	18 inches	Family:	Amaryllidaceae
Spread:	6 inches	Genus:	Allium
Tolerance:	Frost	Species:	A. sativum and A. sativum var. ophioscorodon
Common Pests:	Bulb mites. leafminers. nematodes. onion maggots. thrips.	Common Disease:	Basal rot, downy mildew, penicillium decay, white rot

White clover is a plant that the homeowner either loves or hated. Knowing how to control white clover in lawns and garden beds is useful for many gardeners who did not purposely plant white clover. Getting rid of white clover once it has established itself might be difficult, but it is doable with the appropriate equipment and patience. Let’s look at how to recognize white clover and how to get rid of it.

Identifying Spring Lawn Weeds

Knowing what you’re up against is the first step in controlling weeds in the spring. Unfortunately, Northern Virginia has a number of harmful weeds that are common in the area.

Let’s take a look at some of the most prevalent and vexing spring lawn weeds found in Ashburn, Aldie, and Leesburg, VA lawns.

1. Chickweed

This is by far one of the most common spring lawn weeds we see in our area. It’s also one of the first flowers to bloom in early spring. Because chickweed is a winter annual weed, it germinates over the winter. Chances are you’ve seen this vexing weed at some point, whether in your own lawn or in surrounding garden beds.

It has little white blooms with fleshy egg-shaped leaves and thrives in lawns that have been thinned away. It’s best treated with a selective, liquid broadleaf weed management product, and with a solid lawn care plan, it shouldn’t be an issue for long.

2. Creeping Speedwell/Veronica

This low-growing winter annual weed appears in lawns in early spring, growing in dense areas. It grows creepingly and is distinguished by its rounded leaves and light blue and white flowers.

This weed prefers the shade and damp soils. During active growth, it must be spot-treated with liquid, specific, post-emergent broadleaf weed control. A repeat treatment is frequently required, especially if you have a severe infestation.

3. Ground Ivy

Ground Ivy, sometimes known as “creeping Charlie,” is a low-growing perennial weed with an unpleasant stench when crushed. It is distinguished by scalloped leaves and purple/blue flowers. This ubiquitous and difficult-to-control spring lawn weed belongs to the mint family. As it crawls through the soil surface, it fights to establish roots at each point where the leaf joins to the stem (also known as a “node”).weed ground ivy in the lawn

During active growth, ground ivy requires a liquid, specific post-emergent broadleaf weed management. Because ground ivy frequently develops around the edges of lawns and near trees and bushes, it must be carefully treated with the appropriate chemical. It is also crucial to recognize that controlling ground ivy will take continual work. If it’s getting too thick, ground ivy may need to be treated for several years until it’s at a level you can handle.

4. Dandelion

This bright yellow flowering spring lawn weed grows quickly and is quite hardy. To put it another way, the dandelion is a survivor. Even when the conditions for germination are not good, dandelion seeds will remain viable in the soil until the conditions improve.

Dandelions, as a perennial weed, may die above the surface but may reappear if not treated with an efficient weed control agent. Dandelions can even emerge in the fall, creating the impression of an endless cycle of weed growth on the lawn.

Fortunately, if you handle your dandelion infestation properly, you can break the cycle. If sprayed at the proper time and with the right chemical, dandelions are quite straightforward to control. They necessitate selective, liquid broadleaf weed management during active growth.

5. Wild Garlic & Onion

Winter perennials, wild garlic and onion grow from underground bulbs. Both of these weeds have tall, grassy appearances, but wild garlic has round, hollow leaves, whilst wild onion has flat, solid leaves. Wild garlic and onion spread more quickly in thin, compacted lawns.

Both of these plants will appear to die off in the summer, yet the underground bulb can live for several years. Applying selective, liquid weed control to these spring lawn weeds will help control them by causing the leaves to wilt and vanish. Of course, they may reappear as the weather cools down, such as in the fall or early winter, and may necessitate continued treatment.

6. White Clover

White clover is a perennial weed that grows close to the ground and spreads in a creeping way. It is a white-flowering plant that has the ability to spread quickly across a lawn. White clover thrives in lawns that have been thinned out so that it does not compete with healthy turf.

One of the most annoying aspects of white clover is that its blossoms might attract bees. Going barefoot in your lawn during the summer could be unsafe due to an infestation of white clover. Fortunately, it is extremely simple to reclaim control of your lawn with specific, liquid broadleaf weed management treatments before clover develops flowers and bees appear. Keep in mind that a tough condition may necessitate more than one treatment.

How To Get Rid Of Weeds Without Killing Your Grass

Hand-pulling grass weeds is the most secure method. This is my preferred strategy for my own grass, although we understand it isn’t always feasible.

To pull weeds with taproots, we recommend wearing gloves and using a thin digging tool. We have discovered that the best time to pull weeds is when they’re mature enough to identify but not totally established.

Herbicides are often the best solution for weeds that cannot be picked or that cover a vast area. We do not, however, propose employing chemical herbicides without first conducting study.

Most herbicides are classified as either pre-emergent or post-emergent. Pre-emergent herbicides are administered to the soil directly and prevent seed germination. These products restrict future weed growth while preserving existing weeds.

A post-emergent herbicide is required to target adult weeds in your grass. Select a selective herbicide that is labeled as safe for your grass species. Herbicides that are not selective kill all plants that come into contact with them, including turf grass.

Weeds that prefer poor soil conditions can be discouraged by fertilizing your grass as needed. Furthermore, consistent feeding promotes robust, healthy lawn growth both above and below ground. Weeds will have less space to grow as a result.

Some granular fertilizers contain pre-emergent herbicides, so you may be able to complete two tasks at once.

When To Remove Weeds With Flowers

When it comes to controlling flowering weeds, timing is important. You may prevent the next generation of weeds from invading your lawn by removing flowering weeds before they go to seed.

The earlier you eliminate particularly aggressive weeds, the better. Post-emergent herbicides can be used as long as active growth is present. Hand-pulling weeds will make it easier to remove young weeds that have yet to develop robust root systems.

Preventing Weeds In Grass

Maintaining healthy turf grass is one of the most effective ways to prevent weeds in your yard. Weeds will find it difficult to break through a densely growing lawn. Choose a grass variety appropriate for your land and overseed as needed to mend thin or bare sections.

Mowing on a regular basis will significantly reduce the quantity of weeds that go to seed. I’ve been known to bring out the mower early solely to clip out weed blossoms that were growing above the lawn. This basic step is easy to overlook because it is all about prevention, but you will definitely see a change after a season or two.

Finally, pre-emergent herbicides can work wonders on many common grass weeds. Choose a formula that targets the weeds that are most common in your yard. For optimum control in most regions, we recommend spraying a pre-emergent herbicide twice a year.

Weeds With White Flowers FAQs

What Are The Weeds With White Flowers Called?

There are several weeds with white flowers, both perennial and annual. Lawn daisy, chickweed, dandelion, wild violet, wild carrot, and white clover are some of the most prevalent white flower weeds.

What Are The White Flower Weeds In My Yard?

Weeds can be identified by their flower or leaves. Use this knowledge to identify weeds in your lawn. You might be able to discover an internet tool that can assist you in identifying common lawn weeds growing in your grass.

Are Those Little White Flowers Weeds?

Many plants have little white blossoms. However, if they’re growing in your grass and you didn’t plant them, they’re probably weeds. Keep in mind that many weeds have creeping stems and spread rapidly. If the plant in your grass is a lawn weed, the sooner you recognize it, the sooner you can take steps to eradicate it.

What Causes White Clover In Lawns?

The emergence of white clover on a lawn is frequently indicative of a nitrogen deficit. When there is a lack of nitrogen in the soil, white clover grows while turf grass suffers. we recommend taking a soil test if you detect an unusual amount of white clover in your lawn.

Does Clover Grow Back After Mowing?

Clover will not be killed by mowing. In fact, clover rebounds from being cut better than most turf grasses, so avoid cutting your lawn too short in an attempt to suppress weeds.

Bermuda grass is a plants with long, thick, dark green blades. Although this grass is used for lawns in some places, it is considered a weed in Maryland. It’s an invasive species that can ruin your lawn’s grass and decrease the curb appeal of your property because it grows and spreads swiftly. Learn how to treat Bermuda grass and get rid of it for good.

What Is Bermuda Grass?

Bermuda grass is a tall grass plant that is dark green in color but turns brown while dormant in the winter. It spreads quickly, especially in hotter areas and on unmowed lawns. Bermuda grass is used as turf grass by homeowners in the southern United States, but it is a weed in the northern United States. Bermuda grass replaces other species of grass on lawns. When it becomes brown in the winter, it might detract from your home’s curb appeal.

Bermuda grass is widely used in pastures, coastal areas, golf courses, parks, and sports fields. In areas where it is considered a weed, however, it spreads out of control and sprouts in undesirable spots, such as your lawn. Bermuda grass can overtake your yard or garden and even spread into your neighbor’s lawn. Bermuda grass is difficult to regulate as well as eradicate.

Bermudagrass Basics

Bermudagrass is endemic to tropical and subtropical regions around the world. Although the exact date of its arrival in the United States is unknown, historical archives show that it was already established as one of the principal grasses in southern states by 1807. Bermudagrass is a warm-season perennial grass, which means it grows every year in the right conditions and grows most vigorously from late spring to late summer.

Bermudagrass is more cold-tolerant than warm-season Zoysia grass or cool-season grasses like turf-type tall fescue. This lack of cold tolerance limits its use north of the grass-growing region known as the “transition zone” by lawn professionals. Bermudagrass is a popular lawn choice south of that region, from the Atlantic to the southern states and into California.

Bermuda grass thrives in locations with full, direct sunlight and sufficient drainage. It is resistant to heat, salt, and humidity. Bermuda, unlike Centipede grass, is also drought-tolerant. Although the majority of Bermuda’s roots remain within 6 inches of the surface, they can reach depths of 6 feet or more. This deep root system is more resistant to environmental challenges than other warm-season lawn grasses.

Other Bermudagrass Considerations

Bermudagrass grows at the highest rate of any popular warm-season grass.1 It spreads through both above-ground and below-ground stems known as stolons and rhizomes. Bermudagrass’s rapid growth rate makes it difficult to control, yet it can withstand heavy use. It recovers from harm far faster than most grasses. As a result, it is the ideal grass for athletic fields, golf course tees, and golf fairways throughout the southern United States.

Bermudagrass remains green all winter in frost-free regions. However, it spends the winter dormant and brown in much of its growing zone. Dormancy in Bermudagrass begins earlier and lasts longer than in warm-season alternatives such as Zoysia and Bahiagrass. Southern lawn owners frequently supplement Bermudagrass lawns with cool-season ryegrass for winter color.

What Does Bermuda Grass Look Like?
Bermuda grass has a strong light-to-dark green color and a medium texture at its best. It has compact leaves with a sharp point and tiny hairs where the leaf blade meets the leaf sheath. Bermuda grass has a distinctive seed head that looks like a bird’s foot. It also spreads laterally because to its tough system of above- and below-ground stems, which aids in its rapid growth.

Types Of Bermuda Grass

Bermuda grass is classified into two types: hybrid and common.

Common Bermuda grass: This seeded Bermuda grass is light-green in color and has a rough texture. It has fewer shoots than hybrid grass but a better nutritional value. Because of its thick growth and ability to resist considerable foot traffic, this species of grass is commonly seen in pastures or as turf grass.

Hybrid Bermuda grass is a cross between regular Bermuda and African Bermuda grass. Because it does not produce seeds, it grows through vegetative means such as sprigging, sod, or plugs.

How Bermuda Grass Grows And Spreads

Bermuda grass grows low to the earth and thrives on sunlight and warmth. This grass spreads through rhizomes, stolons, and seeds in warm climates. Stolons are new shoots that grow above the soil’s surface, whereas rhizomes grow beneath the soil’s surface. Rhizomes stretch out from the root of a mature plant to reach new places. They can move from a few inches to a few feet.

Even if the plant’s top dies, the underground rhizomes persist and thrive for several years. Rhizomes can be difficult to eradicate due to their large root system. This root system also enables the grass to endure harsh weather, insects, and diseases.

How To Identify Bermuda Grass

Although Bermuda grass resembles crabgrass, crabgrass has larger leaves than Bermuda grass. Examine your land for the following Bermuda grass identifying characteristics that distinguish this species of weed:

Blue-green or brown leaf patches: Bermuda grass has enormous areas of blue-green leaves. During the summer, you may observe these patches, especially in the early morning when the grass is still wet. During the winter, it turns brown. The leaves themselves have a hairy texture.

Stolons spreading: You may notice stolons spreading on the sidewalk and roads. Unlike crabgrass, which is a dense, sprawling solitary plant, Bermuda grass spreads in thick clumps of tiny plants.

Finger-shaped spikelets: From mid-summer through fall, the Bermuda grass seed head has finger-shaped spikelets. Spikelets typically have several spikes.

How To Prevent Bermuda Grass

Experts understand how to efficiently target weeds without injuring the plants and grass on your lawn and garden. On your property, you could try some of these Bermuda grass protection tactics.

Solarization

Solarization is one of the most simple and successful methods of dealing with Bermuda grass. You should aim to do it during the warmest months of summer to destroy the grass on the surface as well as the stolons underground. Cover the entire yard with a clear plastic tarp after watering the Bermuda grass. Place rocks or bricks on top to help weight down the tarp.

The sun’s rays pass through the tarp and dry out the underlying soil, killing any plants beneath it. You can remove the tarp after a few weeks. Rake up the dead grass or leave it to decompose.

Mulching

Mulching kills Bermuda grass while enriching the soil as it decomposes, allowing you to plant other species of grass. Spread a typical landscape fabric over the Bermuda grass to completely cover it. If you need to use more than one piece of fabric, make sure the edges overlap so there are no gaps on your grass.

Spread a thick layer of mulching material, such as wood chips or bark, over the landscaping fabric. The cloth and mulching’s darkness, heat, and pressure will kill the Bermuda grass beneath it in a matter of weeks.

Cultivation

You can get rid of the dry, dead weeds after a lengthy period of hot, dry weather since Bermuda grass thrives with frequent irrigation. Dig into the dirt with a garden spade or rototiller to break up the lawn. Dig deep enough to reach the Bermuda grass roots and move the dirt beneath. Wait a few weeks for the grass and roots that you brought to the surface to dry out.

Continue to monitor the area to see if the grass grows back after continuing this technique. It may be necessary to repeat the process multiple times before the roots and stolons are completely removed.

Chemical Control

Herbicide should only be used as a last option due to the risks to the surrounding vegetation and your health. It may be more beneficial to look into eco-friendly lawn care methods to ensure the safety of your pets and children. If solarization, mulching, and cultivation do not work, consult a lawn care professional.

Pros And Cons Of Bermuda Grass

Many of the benefits and drawbacks of Bermuda grass overlap depending on where you live. What makes the grass popular in warmer climates makes it a vexing annoyance in chilly climates. Bermuda grass, for example, is commonly used to blanket magnificent golf courses and athletic fields in various parts of the United regions, but it is considered an invasive weed in Northern regions where it may seep into cracks in pavements. Here’s a closer look at the benefits and drawbacks of Bermuda grass.

Pros Of Bermuda Grass

Bermuda grass has a high tolerance for sun, heat, and drought. It favors direct sunshine and can survive daytime temperatures of up to 100 degrees. Furthermore, its thick roots aid with drought resistance.

Resilience: Because of its vast root system, this grass can withstand severe use, including strong foot activity, making it suitable for lawns and athletic fields.

Bermuda grass grows swiftly and spreads quickly, which can be beneficial if your lawn has brown patches.

Cons Of Bermuda Grass

Low cold tolerance: When temperatures drop, Bermuda grass can become weak and dormant, turning a dull brown color. When the weather turns colder, growth slows.

Shade intolerance: If you have multiple trees in your yard, Bermuda grass may not be the best choice for your lawn. Because this grass requires direct sunlight, you may notice thin portions in excessively covered places.

With this variety of grass, you may find yourself mowing more frequently. It can also spread aggressively in more curated areas, such as flowerbeds.

Bermuda Grass Yearly Schedule

There is no one-size-fits-all solution for making a Bermuda grass calendar. This grass kind reacts differently to temperature changes. You should stick to a seasonal plan for the best outcomes. Here are some pointers:

Winter (December, January, and February): In the middle of January, clean up any storm debris and fertilize the soil. Examine the soil for nutritional shortages. Begin using pre-emergent herbicide in late February to prevent germinated weed seedlings from sprouting.

Spring (March, April, and May): Begin spraying fertilizer and insecticide when the weather warms and insects emerge. Begin mowing the lawn more frequently at the end of spring, and remove any weeds. Apply a fungicide and begin aerating your grass around the middle of April.

Summer (June, July, and August): If possible, increase your mowing frequency to a couple of times each week. Maintain a constant fertilizer application schedule, and consider irrigation to battle the heat.

Fall (September, October, and November): Check your yard for worms and tidy up any fallen leaves, acorns, and twigs.

Bermuda Grass Vs. Other Types Of Grass

Bermuda grass, depending on the climate, might be a strong competitor for your home’s turf. However, when it comes to selecting the finest grass variety for their yard, homeowners have various options. If you’re having trouble deciding, a local lawn service professional can assist you in weighing your grass type selections. Here’s how Bermuda grass compares to some of the most popular grass varieties.

Bermuda Grass Vs. Fescue Grass

When it comes to Bermuda grass vs. fescue, both can resist droughts, but fescue grass can withstand lower temperatures, causing Bermuda grass to go dormant and turn brown. Bermuda grass is slightly shorter than fescue grass, which can grow up to 4 inches tall.

Bermuda Grass Vs. Kentucky Bluegrass

These grasses grow quickly and restore themselves. Although Kentucky bluegrass is softer than Bermuda grass, both are fairly durable. The fundamental distinction is their temperature requirements: Kentucky bluegrass prefers cool temperatures, whilst Bermuda grass prefers warmer temps.

Bermuda Grass Vs. St. Augustine Grass

Both types of grasses are warm-weather grasses, which means they thrive in warmer temperatures. However, St. Augustine grass requires more irrigation than Bermuda grass. Bermuda grass can withstand higher foot activity than St. Augustine grass.

Bermuda Grass Vs. Zoysia Grass

Warm-season grasses are hardy and grow under the correct conditions. When deciding between Bermuda grass and Zoysia, Bermuda grass may be the preferable choice if you want a faster-growing grass. Zoysia is the less-maintenance of the two grasses.

FAQs

Is Bermuda Grass Good For Lawns?

Many homeowners in warmer climates prefer this hardy grass because it can withstand extreme heat and drought while growing into a lush lawn. Bermuda grass, unlike other grasses, develops and spreads swiftly and can sustain heavy foot traffic. However, whether Bermuda grass is suitable for lawns depends on your geographical location, as this grass has a limited tolerance for colder temperatures, causing it to lay dormant and turn brown during the winter months.

Does Bermuda Grass Spread?

Because of its system of above-ground stems (stolons) and below-ground stems, Bermuda grass is one of the fastest-growing warm-season grasses. (rhizomes). Bermuda grass will spread if there is enough water and sunlight in a warmer climate. Bermuda grass’s high growth rate makes it resistant to weeds and excellent at choking them out. This vigorous growth, however, can make the grass difficult to confine and control.

Can You Just Throw Bermuda Seeds Down?

Some Bermuda seeds will sprout on the surface if placed on the ground and left, although the germination rate will be reduced. It is recommended to develop the area before dispersing the seeds for maximum results. Rake the area first, then sprinkle the Bermuda seeds evenly. Before watering, cover the area with about 14 inch of soil.

Does Bermuda Grass Need A Lot Of Water?

Although Bermuda grass is drought resistant, it still requires watering once or twice a week. The recommended amount of water for Bermuda grass varies depending on the season. In general, Bermuda grass requires around 1 inch of water each week in the summer, fall, and winter, and up to 34 inch in the spring.

Is Bermuda Grass Hard To Maintain?

Bermuda grass is reasonably simple to care for if planted properly and mowed on a regular basis.

Is Bermuda Grass Easy To Grow?

Yes, Bermuda grass can be cultivated in the right area and under the right conditions.

Most important, this shrub buddy is there when times get tough. In warm climates, it can survive and thrive despite various challenges, from blistering heat to drought and high humidity.

But… This garden shrub does have one negative characteristic, and it could be the end to a beautiful friendship.

Oleanders are highly toxic. If kids, adults, or pets eat the blooms, leaves, stems, roots, or dry debris, they may react with cardiac failure, cardiac arrest, or convulsions. Sometimes, these reactions are fatal.

If you are able to assure that humans or animals won’t accidentally ingest your oleander, though, I can’t recommend this vibrant, easy-care flowering plant enough.

It’s especially rewarding for those contending with hot summer temperatures.

And I’m here (hey, I’m a good friend, too!) to guide you through the growing process. Here’s what I’ll cover:

What Is Oleander?

Of North African and Mediterranean origins, the evergreen flowering shrub known as oleander grows worldwide in warm, subtropical regions. It’s a member of the Apocynaceae aka dogbane family.

Homeowners, communities, and transportation departments plant them because they grow quickly as reliable windbreaks and easy-to-care-for highway median adornments that deer won’t eat.

The thick leaves are shaped like sword blades. They form opposite pairs or are arrayed in whorls of three. The deeply-lobed flowers can be double or single, and bloom at the end of the branches, which can be spreading or erect.

There is also a relative with a similar name that is widely grown as an ornamental. I’ll only mention yellow oleander (Cascabela thevetia) in passing, because it’s a different species from the same family.

C. thevetia is also a poisonous plant to be aware of, and it’s native in Mexico and throughout Central America. Called “lucky nut” in the West Indies, it is nevertheless highly toxic and can cause fatalities too if ingested.

Getting back to Nerium, you can also recognize it because the seeds are downy. These are produced in a capsule that’s two to nine inches long, and splits open at maturity.

This species is available in three sizes.

Dwarf types grow from four to seven feet tall, and can spread a few feet. They’re a good size to grow in containers, which comes in handy in zones outside their range, and they’re also a nice option for groundcover or small shrubbery (grown far away from pets or small kids, though).

The midsize options grow to mature heights of eight to 10 feet, and tall types can reach anywhere from 10 to 25 feet. They’re popular for privacy screens or hedges, or pruned to present more like a tree with a single “trunk” stem.

The latter option looks really cool, but keep in mind that it’s not as low maintenance as planting in a sunny corner of your growing space and letting it take care of itself.

In the US, this flowering shrub is popular with gardeners on the West Coast, in southern states including Texas and Florida, and in many mild-temperature coastal regions, due to its tolerance of salt spray and ability to adapt to various poor soils and pH levels.

According to Elizabeth Head of the International Oleander Society (IOS), their namesake plant “can grow in an altitude of 100 meters near the Dead Sea to about 2,500 meters in the Atlas Mountains of North Africa.”

Though you can’t grow oleander outdoors year-round except in USDA Hardiness Zones 8-10, it is possible to grow them mostly outdoors in Zones 4-7, bringing them indoors for the coldest part of the winter.

Cultivation and History

Its toxicity may be the reason oleander has survived so long in the natural world, but surely its longevity as a prized ornamental is due to those glorious blooms.

And this plant has been around since ancient times, immortalized in the Roman wall paintings at Pompeii.

Head of the IOS also offers tidbits about the origins of its namesake shrub, saying “Ancient Greeks maintained holy forests of oleanders and garnished altars with their blossoms to honor the Nereides, who were considered to be infallible guides.”

More recently, Head adds, “in the 12th century, the oleander was one of the flowering shrubs together with the myrtle and the rose used by Arab gardeners of the Dar-al-Islam.”

This toxic beauty also plays a part in Galveston’s own island city history. Joseph Osterman, a merchant and financier who originally hailed from Amsterdam, brought tubs of double pink and single white varieties from Jamaica to Galveston in the early 1840s.

The flowering shrubs arrived on Osterman’s schooner along with the rum and sugar he imported for his mercantile.

His sister-in-law, Mercedes Louise Percival, known to island society as Mrs. Isadore Dyer, was quite the green thumb and had soon propagated and shared hundreds of these shrubs with her friends and neighbors.

These first cultivars became popular throughout the island and soon made their way into the gardens of other Texas communities.

Over the years, Galveston and a number of Texas gardeners cultivated many more varieties, including a pink, vanilla-scented one named ‘Mrs. Isadore Dyer’ in her honor.

They had a second heyday decades later, after the hurricane of 1900 devastated the local landscape. With their adaptability and fast growth habit, not to mention those gorgeous flowers, they were the natural choice for reforestation.

After the hurricane rebuilding, Galveston became known as “The Oleander City,” and its tribute society (the IOS) was formed and incorporated in 1967.

Want to join the happy legions who grow this showy shrub? Keep reading and soon you’ll learn how to grow and care for oleander.

Propagation

Oleander shrubs may be propagated by rooting stem cuttings, or starting them from seed.

From Cuttings

Another easy-care aspect of these flowering shrubs is how simple it is to start them from a cutting taken in the early spring, before they start blooming and after they’ve generated new growth.

It will take about a year for the cutting to reach a size where you can plant it in the ground or a container.

To start, any time you’ll be touching any part of this toxic plant, be sure to don protective gloves (I prefer disposable) and wear long sleeves. The saponins can be irritating to the skin.

Next, cut a stem that’s six to eight inches long from the parent plant. Make sure you’re cutting new growth, and make the cut just below a leaf node.

Strip the leaves until you’re left with three or four on the tip of the stem, and carefully dispose of the discards in a sealed bag with the household garbage.

Place the partly stripped cutting in a cup with three inches of tap water. Place the cup in a window with indirect light.

Within a week or two, your cutting should sprout roots. The water will get icky every two or three days, so you’ll need to change it at least that often.

Once the roots have reached an inch to two inches long, pot the plant in a six-inch container filled with well-draining soil. It will need at least four hours of direct or indirect sunlight per day as it continues to grow.

Every few months, plan to move it to a container that’s a size bigger. Within a year, you’ll need a gallon-size container and it will be about a foot tall, ready to be planted in its forever home.

From Seed

Seeds are also an option for propagation, and they tend to be available in more varieties than the potted plants you find at the garden center, so this could be worth a try.

To start seeds indoors, fill a shallow tray or one- or two-inch peat pot with about an inch of pre-moistened soilless mixture.

Press a couple of seeds into the top of each pot, or several into the tray, spaced about two inches apart.

Oleander seeds need light to germinate, so only cover them with a light sprinkle of the potting mixture or a bit of vermiculite.

Cover the pots or tray with plastic wrap and place on a windowsill, or on top of a heat mat that will create the ideal temperature for germination, which is 68°F.

Until you spy sprouts, which usually takes two to three weeks, keep the potting mix moist (but not waterlogged) with a spray bottle of water.

They may take up to 30 days to sprout, and I’ve heard a few sad tales of seeds that took 90 days to germinate, but that’s a rare occurrence.

Once they do germinate, immediately get rid of the plastic and place them where they’ll receive four hours of direct light or more per day. If you can only provide indirect light, they’ll need more like 10 hours of exposure each day.

You may want to consider investing in a grow light for this project.

When the seedlings form two sets of true leaves, they’re ready to be transplanted into individual pots.

Proceed as described above for propagating cuttings, moving to increasingly larger pots and continuing to care for them indoors, with the goal of having them ready to plant in early fall or early spring when the seedling is one year old.

How to Grow

I dislike being a downer about this shrub when it’s so beautiful and gardening is so much fun. But at the risk of sounding like a nag, I have to remind you: oleander is potentially dangerous.

If you want to grow this beautiful, carefree, flowering shrub, you must first make sure you’re able to cultivate it somewhere that pets, livestock, kids, or even adults won’t accidentally ingest any part of this plant, which is poisonous – from leaves to stems, and roots to flowers.

Once you’ve cleared that hurdle, the rest of the growing process is pretty simple.

These hot-weather beauties grow best in full sun, but you can inflict part shade on them, too. Do expect plants grown in part shade to be a bit leggier and to have fewer blooms than their full-sun counterparts.

As mentioned earlier, they don’t need good soil or any particular pH level, but the dirt has to be well-draining.

Consider adding a bit of sand to the planting hole or amending the soil with organic matter, but don’t fret too much if your drainage is so-so; as long as the plants don’t end up in standing water, they should be alright.

They typically go dormant in winter (though they may bloom year-round in a few sultry locales), and do the bulk of their growing and blooming in spring and summer.

This means the best times to plant oleander are very early spring, ahead of that growth spurt, or in late summer to early autumn, right after they’ve paused the bloomfest.

Plant each shrub in a hole that’s precisely as deep as the root ball, and two to three times as wide. Reserve the soil from digging to backfill after you plant.

Place the transplant in the hole, making certain to position the base of the main stem right at soil level (not beneath the ground).

Gently fill the hole halfway with soil, but don’t pack or press it down. Water lightly, being careful to aim for the roots and keep the leaves dry.

Give it a few minutes for the roots to get a drink, then gently fill the rest of the hole with dirt, give it another drink, and you’re good to go.

You may not need to tend these transplants again for months! But as the season unfolds, you may want to water occasionally during dry spells. These vigorous plants will tolerate drought, but hey, they’d prefer not to.

If you have the means and happen to think about it, consider watering them during the hottest or driest months in your region. An inch or two of extra water per week should help them to flower more profusely.

Make sure to aim spray from a hose or watering can at the roots and below the leaves, and don’t overdo it. If these shrubs end up in standing water, particularly during the cooler months, they can succumb to root rot.

Along with the below-leaf watering strategy, be sure to provide the well-draining soil they need so Mother Nature won’t overwater them, either.

To grow oleander in containers, choose a planter that’s twice as wide as the root ball.

It helps if the soil is amended with compost, both so it will absorb water and so it will drain properly.

Container-grown shrubs don’t need fertilizer, either, but they will need full sun and they might require extra water as soil in containers tends to dry out faster than soil in the garden.

Most importantly, if you’re planning to bring the container indoors when it starts freezing at night, make sure you’ve got a safe spot where pets and kids won’t be tempted to touch or gnaw on the plants.

You can learn more about how to grow oleander in containers in our guide. (coming soon!)

Growing Tips

• To protect yourself from the toxic, milky sap, always wear gloves and long sleeves when working with oleander.
• Provide an inch of water per week in very dry weather.
• If the leaves start to yellow, pluck them off and cease providing supplemental water.

Pruning and Maintenance

We promised no maintenance, and you can honestly go that route once your oleander shrub is established.

Fertilizer, for example: Mature plants don’t need it.

You can deadhead spent blooms with pruning shears to encourage more in the following years, but this chore only yields maybe 20 percent more flowers.

You can do without pruning, too. But your plant will also flower a bit more if you snip the suckers bursting out of the base stem or up from the roots if you find more than one or two.

And since oleander blooms on new wood, it can help to snip a few inches off the ends of the stems once the flowers have died back in late summer or very early fall. This provides more potential “blooming ends” the next year.

If you decide to give the shrubs an autumn trim, just make sure to schedule it early enough so the newly-rejuvenated branches are able to “harden off” before the first hard frost.

You can also prune again in early spring, right before the growth-fest gets going a few weeks after your average last frost. This can help your shrub to put on fuller growth, or stay at the height you’d prefer.

If you’re going that route, make sure to time it so pruning doesn’t interfere with prime growing season. And make your cuts right above leaf nodes.

But again, any form of pruning is just “nice to have” with these plants, and not at all necessary.

This may call me out as your sort of lazy friend, but I say, if you decided to grow this shrub because it’s low maintenance, you should stick to the plan! Skip the extra effort.

To learn more about how to prune oleander, check out our guide. (coming soon!)

Managing Pests and Disease

Because it’s so toxic, you don’t have to worry about deer or rabbits eating these shrubs.

There is the oleander caterpillar, Syntomeida epilais, to contend with, though, and this bug didn’t get its name accidentally: It’s the main pest that plagues this shrub.

The larvae can devastate the young shoots, and if you spot only skeletal remains of foliage, there’s a good chance your plant is infested with these pests.

The mature caterpillars are a sight to behold – otherworldly, fuzzy, rust-red crawlers sprouting black tufts.

But here’s what’s almost charming. If your plant is already growing strong, an infestation of these caterpillars will merely defoliate it. It will be down (and look awful), but not out.

It will probably just grow back and proceed along. That doesn’t mean you want to encourage the namesake caterpillars, though.

Their munch-fest can weaken the plant and make it more susceptible to the less likely pests, which include aphids, mealybugs, and scale insects.

Usually, though, you can spot where the larvae have scraped the leaves in time to cut the foliage they’re feeding on, and get rid of them in the process.

Or, if you spot the mature ones, pick them off by hand – they don’t sting! Ironically, the bigger danger to you is getting the irritating milky sap from the plants on your hands or arms, so make sure to wear long sleeves and disposable gloves for the duration.

Also look for the cocoons of mature oleander caterpillars, which are noticeable on walls or eaves of nearby structures, like a house or shed. If you pluck and freeze them for 24 hours before tossing them out in a bag, you can stop the damage before it starts.

These plants are hardy and thrive on neglect. But you’ll still want to make sure they’re not suffering from Botryosphaeria dieback, where species of fungi in the Botryosphaeria genus cause the shoots to die back and turn a depressing dark shade.

It’s pretty easy to take care of the damage, though, pruning out all the discolored portions and making sure to treat any cuts with a solution of one part household bleach to nine parts water.

They may also have a bit of difficulty with oleander gall, which comes about when a bacteria called Pseudomonas syringae multiplies inside the plant. It enters via the shrub’s natural openings in the leaves and stems, or through wounds sustained from frost or pruning injuries.

Galls start out as small bumps and develop into warty, knotty growths almost an inch wide.

To prevent these bacteria from taking hold, avoid pruning during the rainy season. Also, don’t water the plants from above. Either process runs the risk of the bacteria that causes gall splashing from a diseased plant to an unaffected one via water droplets.

Once you’ve noticed gall, you can remove the lesions by pruning a couple of inches below each growth. Treat each cut you make with a solution of 10 percent household bleach to 90 percent water.

Be diligent about discarding the remains when you prune any diseased portions of this toxic plant.

You don’t want to burn them, since smoke from oleander can cause respiratory distress and may be fatal to humans and pets that breathe it.

Nor should any cut branches with gall lesions go into the compost, or they may spread the bacteria and cause more damage.

Instead, bag the cuttings and throw them away with the household trash, and then destroy any lingering bacteria on your pruners by washing them one more time with that 10 percent bleach solution.

Best Uses

If you’ve got a spot with full sun and well-draining soil in Zones 8-10, oleander will thrive!

Remember you do have to plant it where no pet or person will ingest any part of this poisonous plant. But there are still several satisfying options for growing this hardy ornamental shrub in your landscape.

The tall varieties excel as a quick-growing, flowering privacy screen, for example, with the added advantage of evergreen leaves.

Or you can pull together your landscape design by planting midsize or dwarf types to form a lower, mounding hedge.

In more formal settings, consider planting just one, and training it to grow like a single-trunk tree.

If you’re lucky enough to garden where spray from the ocean or bay is an issue, salt-tolerant oleander should top your list of ornamental shrubs. It’s extra nice as part of seaside gardens because it can act as a windbreak, either singly, or as part of a hedge.

Since they’re so low-maintenance, thriving without supplemental water or fertilizer, these shrubs are also a great option for planting somewhere that needs brightening but is far from a water hose or otherwise inaccessible.

You can also plant oleander in spots where you crave color but it would be tough to amend the soil or where there is part shade. These shrubs will adjust and go on blooming!

Behind the garage, on that hard-scrabble patch in the far corner of the back yard, in that gully or ridge where no one can walk – much less carry a watering can – these are all great places for oleander.

And if you’ve had trouble with deer eating every blooming thing, consider planting a few of these shrubs in an isolated part of the landscape. Deer won’t touch them, and you’ll have uninterrupted enjoyment of the profusion of blooms.

Quick Reference Growing Guide

Plant Type:	Evergreen flowering ornamental shrub	Flower / Foliage Color:	Pink, purple, red, white/green
Native to:	North Africa and eastern Mediterranean	Maintenance:	Low
Hardiness (USDA Zone):	8-10	Tolerance:	Drought, heat, poor soil, salt air
Season:	Summer-fall	Soil Type:	Average
Exposure:	Full sun	Soil pH:	5.5-6.5
Spacing:	4 feet (hedges), 8 feet (specimens)	Soil Drainage:	Well-draining
Planting Depth:	Slightly above soil grade (transplants), soil surface (seeds)	Avoid Planting With:	Vegetables or near areas where pets and children could ingest
Growth Rate:	Medium to fast	Uses:	Hedge, privacy screen, ornamental specimen
Height:	8-12 feet (standard), 3-5 feet (dwarf)	Family:	Apocynaceae
Spread:	2-10 feet, depending on variety	Genus:	Nerium
Water Needs:	Low	Species:	oleander
Common Pests:	Oleander caterpillar, aphids, mealybugs, scale	Common Diseases:	Botryosphaeria dieback, gall

Oleo You Need to Know About This Heat-Tolerant Shrub

At the end of the blooming season, I would challenge you to find a flowering shrub that is more productive than oleander, especially considering the minimal care it requires.

If you’re facing drought, high humidity, high temperatures, and maybe a bit of salt air, this vigorous shrub is a friend indeed.

How about you? Do you have an oleander anecdote you’d like to share, or maybe a favorite variety or growing tip? Let us know in the comments section below!

And for more information about growing ornamental shrubs in your garden, check out these guides next:

Planting buffalograss is now, believe it or not. It is one of the few native prairie grasses suitable for low-maintenance lawns and turf areas. It thrives in our clay soils and stays at a low level.

The arboretum has benefited from the established buffalograss stands that we maintain. During the growth season, the fine leaves remain a lovely blue-green, and it requires less mowing, watering, and fertilizing than our fescue or bluegrass lawns.

Newer buffalograss cultivars (Bowie, Cody, and Sundancer) green up faster in the spring, stay green longer in the fall, spread quickly by stolons to cover a planting area, and grow shorter. As a result, they require less mowing.

Once established, we’ve discovered it to be a hardy, long-lasting alternative to many cool-season grasses. It thrives in hot, dry circumstances and even survived the 2012 drought. In the following weeks, we will be planting some more areas to buffalograss.

Benefits Of Buffalo Lawn Grass

Low growing – Depending on the type, buffalo grass can reach a height of 3 to 8 inches.

Low Fertility Requirements – Unlike other varieties of lawn grasses such as Kentucky bluegrass and tall fescue, which require 4 to 6 lbs of nitrogen per year, mature buffalo grass only requires 1 to 2 lbs of nitrogen per 1000 square feet each year.
Water conservation – Buffalo grass is a drought resistant grass species in addition to having a low fertility demand.

It goes dormant and revives as soon as there is enough moisture during the summer drought, but it should be irrigated regularly if you want a lush green lawn all summer.

Few insect concerns – Buffalo grass attracts few pests and insects, however chinch bugs can be a nuisance in some kinds.

Disadvantages Of Buffalo Grass

• Buffalo grass thrives in drier climates.
• Buffalo grass is more expensive than most other species of grass.
• Older types of buffalo grass are less dense, with a huge number of seed heads that some people may find unappealing.

What Is The Best Time And How To Plant Buffalo Grass?

Buffalo grass can be grown from seed or sod, and the best time to plant is in April or May. Buffalo grass sod is often composed of female plants in order to prevent the spikey male heads from sprouting.

If you seed your grass, though, you will have both male and female plants. The recommended rate for broadcast Buffalo grass seed is 4 to 6 lbs per 1000 square feet.

How Long Does It Take For Buffalo Grass To Grow From Seed?

Buffalo grass may take two to three weeks or more to germinate. It is important to water your grass frequently during this period until a good strand develops.

Many people who have successfully established a buffalo grass lawn used straw mulch or another sort of mulch to protect the young seedlings while they germinated.

Because they are native to moister places than New Mexico, bluegrass and fescue lawn grass are genetically engineered to develop their leaves first and hence establish more quickly.

Native grasses, such as buffalo grass, grow their root system first, thus their leaves develop slowly and germinate over time. After a sufficient number of seeds have germinated, you can lessen the frequency of irrigation while continuing to water deeply.

Here are some ways to ensure a favorable outcome when planting a buffalograss lawn:

Give It Sunshine

Buffalograss grows best with at least 6 hours of direct sunlight per day and well-drained soil. It will not grow well in low regions with standing water or in areas that are shaded. If it is unhappy, you are likely to be upset with its overall appearance.

Weed Control Prior To Planting

Your planting area should be as weed-free as possible, just like a flower garden. We have discovered that applying Round-Up numerous times in the spring before planting is the most effective way to control weeds, particularly Bermuda grass and bindweed. We also lightly till the space (1/4-1/2 inch deep) before planting so that there is enough loose soil to just cover the seed. Keep in mind that every time the soil is tilled, fresh weed seeds grow and must be eliminated before the seed may be distributed.

Proper Seed Selection

Every year, new forms are discovered and introduced, although the arboretum’s forms of choice have been Cody, Bowie, and Bison. We sowed them in June or July, using 2-3 pounds of seed per 1000 square feet.

Proper Establishment

Buffalograss requires soil temperatures exceeding 600 degrees Fahrenheit to get started. We usually spread half of the seed in one direction and the other half perpendicular to the first half. To ensure adequate seed-to-soil contact, we lightly rake the area and then pack it in (drive over the entire planting with a mower or tractor).

We thoroughly water the entire area the first time to totally soak the soil (just to the point where water runs off), and then follow with frequent light watering till the seeds germinate in 14-21 days. Infrequent deep soakings after germination will keep the young seedlings expanding. An area can be completely established from seed in the first year.

Weed Control After Planting

These new varieties of Buffalograss thrive in our climate. They grow a thick, dense grass that can outcompete weeds in optimal conditions. Weeds can become an issue in marginal areas, necessitating weed control using herbicides or physical eradication. In the fall, we use a broadleaf weed control to eradicate henbit, dandelions, bindweed, and other broadleaf weeds. Weed management in your buffalograss before planting and throughout the first few years following establishment will reduce future weed control, watering, mowing, and overall upkeep.

Buffalograss is a great turf for open, sunny regions, but it is not a miraculous grass that will solve all of your lawn problems. Because it is native to our area, the natural appearance of this native grass should be admired. It should also be planted with the goal of requiring less financial investment and less labor to maintain a dense, attractive turf. For these reasons, we consider buffalograss to be a low-maintenance lawn option worth cultivating.

Summer Mowing – Buffalo Grass

In the summer, buffalo grass should be mowed every 5 to 7 days. If your grass is in good condition, you don’t need to mow as frequently, but every two weeks during the summer should suffice.

You must keep track of mowing times and make certain that you do not skip any periods on your buffalo grass mowing schedule during the summer, since skipping mowing times will make mowing more difficult, produce a big number of clippings, grow a thatch layer, and cause damage to the lawn after mowing.

Winter Mowing – Buffalo Grass

As winter approaches, the rate at which buffalo grass grows slows significantly, requiring you to adapt your mowing plan accordingly. Buffalo grass does not need to be cut as frequently in the winter as it does in the summer, but every four weeks is sufficient.

Buffalo grass lawns can be deceptive in appearance throughout the winter, as it may appear that the turfgrass is not growing, yet it is strengthening itself in its thatch layer despite not developing additional leaf.

Popular Buffalo Turf Varieties

There are many varieties of buffalo grass available on the market, allowing you to select the one that best meets your needs.

Prestige Buffalo

Prestige Buffalo® Grass is the perfect choice for year-round aficionados of dark green, soft leaf lawn. It was developed from the world’s most popular buffalo, Palmetto, and contains several excellent characteristics that make it a popular choice. Prestige Buffalo offers a high shade tolerance, with up to 70% tolerance in low wear zones and 50% tolerance in moderate to high wear areas.

Sapphire Buffalo

Sapphire Buffalo® is an Australian bred fine leaf textured turf with exceptional shade tolerance, unrivaled softness, and robust climatic and wear and tear tolerance. Sapphire Buffalo has the ultimate luxury feel, requires less mowing, is hardy, and is drought tolerant.

Palmetto Buffalo

Palmetto Buffalo grass has soft broad leaves and requires less watering and mowing than most turf species. It has a remarkable dark emerald color that stands out throughout the winter. Palmetto Buffalo is drought resilient and efficient water consumer due to its deep-rooted system.

Final Thoughts

Buffalo grass is worth considering if you want a lawn that will thrive in nearly any environment. Plant buffalo grass from seed, plugs, or sod, which can be costly and may necessitate professional assistance.

The first step in caring for or dealing with problems with your lawn is determining what type it is. Although Buffalo grass is one of the most prevalent types of grass, understanding how to identify it can be tough for beginners.

This article will go through every detail of common Buffalo grass identification. By accurately recognizing your turf variety, you can better care for your lawn and keep it looking fantastic!

What Does Buffalo Grass Look Like?

Here are the characteristics to look out for when trying to identify Buffalo grass:

Leaf Blade

The leaf blades are large and narrow, with a midrib running down the center.

Color

Depending on the variety of Buffalo you have the color of the blade could be anything from bright green to dark green. The blade on the popular Sir Walter Buffalo grass is deep green in color.

The leaves of this warm-season grass don’t have any red or yellow coloring, but the colder months may cause a slight discoloration.

Runners

Grasses are spread through two different types of runners: rhizomes and stolons. While both propagate new grass blades, rhizomes are underground and stolons are above ground.

Buffalo grasses have solely aboveground runners. (stolons). The stolons have a dark reddish/brown color and spread flat across the soil surface.

The Common Types Of Buffalo Grass

If you enjoy Buffalo grass, you’ll be pleased to discover that there are numerous variations. Unfortunately, this also means that distinguishing between them can be difficult!

Buffalo grass comes in various types, some more common than others. The most frequent kinds in Australia include

• Sir Walter
• Matilda
• Prestige
• Sapphire
• Shademaster
• Palmetto

In the United States, Buffalo grass is called St Augustine. Some of these kinds are more popular in specific areas than others because to their various characteristics and adaptation to varied weather in different locales (Sir Walter is particularly popular along Australia’s east coast).

How Buffalo Grass Has Changed Over The Years

The traditional, scratchy Buffalo grass of the past has been vastly improved over time.

Buffalo grass is no longer spiky and scratchy, but it has been altered to be far less bothersome for allergy sufferers. The popular Sir Walter DNA Certified Buffalo is one of the new “soft-leaf” varietals.

Does Buffalo Grass Spread Quickly?

Buffalo grass is a fast-growing turf species. It does not, however, have the issues associated with invasive grasses such as Kikuyu.

In comparison to other kinds, buffalo tolerates shade exceptionally well. It should be able to thrive in environments with as little as 40% sunshine, or around 3 hours each day.

Is Buffalo Grass Better Than Kikuyu?

The short answer is yes! This is primarily due to the fact that buffalo grass is much easier to manage.

For instance, it grows at a relatively gradual rate, making it easier to control. Kikuyu has a tendency to extend beyond the bounds of your lawn over time. This includes your garden beds, your driveway, and possibly your neighbor’s grass.

Kikuyu also requires more mowing than Buffalo. Buffalo grows quickly, but not as vigorously as Kikuyu. To keep your Kikuyu grass at its best during the summer, you should mow it once a week. Buffalo, on the other hand, need only mowing every 2-3 weeks.

Buffalo is also more shade tolerant than Kikuyu.

Kikuyu has the advantage of being able to repair damage significantly faster. This is due to the fact that Buffalo solely possesses above-ground stolons, but Kikuyu also has underground rhizomes. They are, however, both extremely tough turfs.

Which Is The Best Buffalo Grass?

When evaluating Buffalo turf grasses, evaluate which one will be best for your space, needs, and climate.

Dna Certified Sir Walter

For good reason, DNA Certified Sir Walter lawns are Australia’s favorite grass variety! They are drought, shade, and frost tolerant, as well as quick recovery and low allergenic.

Sapphire

While Sir Walter lawns perform better in high-traffic locations, Sapphire Buffalo grass is a suitable choice in low-traffic areas for shade tolerance. They also require mowing less frequently.

Palmetto

Palmetto Buffalo grass, an alternative to Sir Walter, retains its winter color in full light, has a low level of thatch, and is resistant to a variety of weather situations.

Matilda

Matilda is another buffalo type that may keep its green winter color in full sun. Buffalo turf prefers sunlight yet can sustain heavy wear and tear.

Is Carpet Grass A Buffalo Grass?

Carpet grass and buffalo grass are two distinct species.

Carpet grass, often known as mat grass, grows in a creeping, stoloniferous manner. It is the best choice for low-maintenance lawns because it requires the least amount of mowing and fertilization of any lawn grass.

Carpet grass grows well in shade, making it a suitable alternative for locations with little sunlight, but it prefers warm, subtropical temperatures over Buffalo’s more temperate climate range.

Buffalo Lawn Repair

Minor damage to your Buffalo grass will most likely heal itself. In more serious circumstances, you may be required to take action. Brown Patch can be an issue for Buffalo grasses (as it is for all warm-season grasses) in more humid areas of the country.

The best solution is prevention, but if Brown Patch emerges on your lawn, try minimizing watering. In the morning, I only drank water. Never water at night since the fungus spreads through water.

Remove any grass clippings or other leaf litter that may raise humidity and decrease ventilation. You should also cut any shrubs or trees that shade the lawn to improve airflow. In exceptionally severe infestations, fungicides may be required, but as with all toxins, use caution.

It may take several months for the lawn to recover, particularly after a severe infestation. To keep weeds at bay, you may need to reseed any dead patches in your grass. This is true whether the condition is caused by a fungus, a lack of water, or neglect.

African Black beetles and Armyworms can cause damage to your lawn. If the infestation is severe, you may wish to use a pesticide to treat it.

Buffalo Grass FAQ

Why Is My Buffalo Grass Yellow?

You may be mowing your Buffalo grass too short or too frequently. Buffalo grass is a warm-season grass that is dormant in the winter and green in the summer, so if you’ve been experiencing lower weather, this could be the reason of the discoloration.

What Soil Ph Level Is Good For Buffalo Grass?

Buffalo grass grows in soil with a PH level of 5 to 8.5, depending on the variety.

What’S The Best Growing Season?

Buffalo lawn, like most warm-season grasses, grows best in the spring and summer. You will need to start mowing more frequently during these seasons, but your grass will grow.

How Long Does It Take To Grow?

One of the primary advantages of using turf rather than seeds is that DNA Certified Sir Walter Buffalo turf will be largely developed before it gets at your door.

However, depending on the weather, your new lawn should be established after 4 weeks after installing turf.

Does It Grow In The Shade?

Sir Walter lawn is well-known for its shade tolerance, making it an excellent choice for tiny yards where the fence or house produces a shadow throughout the day.

How To Tell The Difference Between Buffalo And Kikuyu Grass?

Buffalo Grass has a larger leaf blade and a richer green color, whereas Kikuyu Grass has a coarser, wiry texture with narrower blades.

Does It Grow In The Winter?

While Sir Walter Buffalo Grass does not actively grow in the winter, it is noted for its ability to retain its green tint for the majority of the season.

Can I Grow Buffalo Lawns From Runners?

Surprisingly, buffalo lawns can be grown from runners. While this is not advised for a whole lawn, it is an excellent method for repairing bare sections.

How Do I Plant Buffalo Grass?

Buffalo grass can be grown from seeds, sod, or plugs. When planting from seed, prepare the soil by removing any weeds and adding compost or fertilizer. Plant the seeds in the spring or early summer and keep them moist until they germinate. When using sod or plugs, the soil should be prepared in the same manner and the sod or plugs planted in the same season.

How Often Should I Water Buffalo Grass?

Buffalo grass is drought resistant and requires less water than other species of grass. It should be deeply watered once a week during the summer and once every two weeks during the fall and spring. Overwatering may result in disease and lead to shallow root systems.

How Do I Maintain My Buffalo Grass Lawn?

To keep a healthy Buffalo grass lawn, mow it periodically and don’t remove more than one-third of the blade height at once. It should be fertilized in the spring and fall, and any weeds should be removed by hand or with a Buffalo grass-safe weed killer.

What Pests And Diseases Affect Buffalo Grass?

Buffalo grass is largely pest and disease resistant, but it can be harmed by grubs, chinch bugs, and other insects. Buffalo grass can be affected by diseases such as rust, powdery mildew, and brown patch. These problems can be avoided with regular care and sufficient watering.

Is Buffalo Grass A Good Choice For My Lawn?

Buffalo grass is an excellent choice for those seeking a low-maintenance, drought-tolerant lawn that seems lush and green. It is also suitable for locations with hot, dry summers. However, because it does not handle hard use as well as some other species of grass, it may not be the ideal choice for places with high foot traffic.

How To Fix Dead Patches

In addition to runners, you can cover dead patches with fresh grass or by adding topsoil and encouraging your existing lawn to fill in. In order for these solutions to function, you must first address the underlying cause of the dead patch.

Sky Pencil holly (Ilex crenata ‘Sky Pencil’) is a versatile plant with dozens of uses in the landscape. It is unique and has its own style. The thin columnar shape is the first thing you’ll notice. It grows no wider than 2 feet (61 cm.) when left to grow naturally, and it can be pruned to just a foot (31 cm.) in width. It’s a cultivar (cultivated variant) of Japanese holly with evergreen leaves that looks more like boxwoods than hollies. Continue reading to learn how to grow a Sky Pencil holly and how simple it is to care for this fascinating plant.

Holly’s Sky Pencil

Sky Pencil hollies are narrow, columnar shrubs that can reach 8 feet (2 meters) in height and 2 feet (61 cm) in width. With pruning, you may keep them at a height of 6 feet (2 meters) and a width of 12 inches. (31 cm.). Female plants yield tiny, black berries and produce little, greenish blooms, although neither is very beautiful. They are mostly grown for their unique shape.

Sky Pencil holly shrubs thrive in containers. As a result, you can use them as architectural plants to frame a door or entryway, as well as on decks and patios. Because the leaves aren’t spiky like other varieties of holly shrubs, you don’t have to worry about coming into touch with the plant.

Sky Pencil holly shrubs can be used as a hedge plant in the ground. They are useful in areas where the width of bushier plants is restricted. They seem well-kept even with little trimming, and they can be used in formal gardens alongside beautifully sheared plants.

Planting And Care Of Sky Pencil Hollies

The USDA plant hardiness zones for Sky Pencil hollies are 6 through 9. They can grow in full sun or slight shade. In zones 8 and 9, give shade from the hot midday sun. Strong winds must be avoided in zone 6. It thrives in any well-drained soil.

Dig the planting hole twice as deep as the root ball and twice as wide. If your soil is heavy clay or sand, combine some compost with the fill material. As you backfill the hole, press down with your foot to remove any air pockets.

After planting, water thoroughly and add more fill dirt if the soil settles. Water frequently until the plant is established and growing, then apply 2 to 4 inches (5-10 cm.) of organic mulch over the root zone to help keep the soil moist. You won’t need to fertilize your new holly until the first spring after planting.

Long-Term Sky Pencil Holly Care

Sky Pencil hollies require very little maintenance once established. They don’t require cutting unless you wish to keep them at a certain height or width. If you want to prune them, wait until the plants are dormant in the winter.

In the spring, use one pound of 10-6-4 or a specific broadleaf evergreen fertilizer per inch (2.5 cm.) of trunk diameter to Sky Pencil hollies. Water in the fertilizer after it has been applied to the root zone. Watering established plants is only necessary during dry spells.

Sky Pencil Hollies Care Tips

Sky Pencil Holly Ilex crenata grows well in USDA zones 6 through 9. In the ground, these shrubs adapt well to varying sunlight conditions. It will need protection from the midday sun in hardiness zones 8 and 9.

While in zone 6, it needs protection from winds.

Another key consideration is to dig a hole three times the width of the root ball when planting your shrub in the ground. Backfill the hole with compost mixed in with the soil. Even so, it’s a good idea to learn the fundamentals of Holly care before excavating a hole.

Soil For Sky Pencil Holly

Sky Pencil Holly may grow in a variety of soil conditions, including sandy, clay, and rock. However, it is critical to give the shrub with loose, loamy soil. So it requires well-drained soil and, if the soil is clay or sand, it is beneficial to add some compost to the mix.

Another thing to note is that the Japanese Holly is an all-female cultivar, and if you want it to bear fruit, you must also have a male variety.

Lighting Needs For Pencil Holly

These columnar shrubs prefer full sun, but partial shelter from the hot afternoon heat is beneficial in warmer climes. If you live in a cooler region, however, full sun is recommended. Your adaptive plant need at least six hours of morning sun daily.

When Ilex crenata is not given enough sunlight, it grows slowly and its branches become less dense.

Watering Your Sky Pencil Holly

Watering fresh Holly plants frequently will help the roots establish. However, the soil must be moist and not soggy, as this raises the risk of fungal infections and root rot. During dry conditions, water more frequently until the root ball establishes itself.

Another thing to remember, like with most indoor plants, is to let the soil dry between waterings. Then, in warmer climates, water regularly when the soil appears to be dry. Finally, if you’re worried about overwatering, pay attention to the leaves.

The leaves should be dark green. Overwatering is indicated by the lightening of the foliage. A lack of watering causes your plant to turn brown.

Temperature & Humidity

The Sky Pencil Hollies like temperate conditions because they do not thrive in harsh heat or cold. As a result, it is advisable to select a location that protects them from the wind. Furthermore, the plant is sensitive to extreme humidity.

When the young plant grows older, it will require less water because it is resistant to drought. To avoid winter burns and to protect against freezing temperatures. To keep the branches tight, bind them together or wrap them from top to bottom.

Alternatively, cultivate your columnar shrubs in containers and transplant them to a warm location.

Fertilizing Your Japanese Holly

When planted in fertile organic soil, your Ilex crenata Sky Pencil usually does not require feeding. All you have to do is mulch around the base. However, if your plant need assistance, you can use an all-purpose slow-release balanced feed once a year in the spring.

Water your shrub thoroughly after applying the feed. However, you do not need to fertilize your young Holly during the first year because it does not develop quickly. Expect a four to six-inch vertical growth from an established Ilex crenata.

Another key point to remember is to avoid using heavy nitrogen fertilizers to force your plant to grow. Providing forced growth makes your Japanese Holly susceptible to diseases over time.

Pruning And Potting Sky Pencil Hollies

You can grow your tiny Japanese Holly types in containers. We recommend using a pot that is at least eight inches broader than the root ball. This permits your Sky Pencil to grow for three years before it requires a larger container.

We recommend selecting terracotta because the moisture evaporates faster and will not collapse over with the growth of your plant. Also, be certain that it has enough drainage. Finally, to keep its shape, the Sky Pencil Holly will require light trimming.

The optimal period to prune is from spring to early fall, however major pruning can be done in early spring before new growth. You can also promote development by remove diseased, dead, or damaged branches.

It will take a few prunes over the growth season to shape your Sky Pencil Hollies into a hedge in the landscape. If you have an old shrub that needs to be refreshed, cut it down to 12 inches off the ground in late winter.

Sky Pencil Holly Common Diseases And Pests

Pests and other issues, such as high winds damaging the leaf, can make the Japanese Holly their home. In addition, in late April, a female Holly Leaf Miner can suck out the fluids of the leaves.

Whiteflies, spider mites, and scale are among the other insects. Stem cankers, root rot, and nematodes are common plant diseases. Another issue to be concerned about is yellowing leaves caused by too-alkaline soil, which can lead to iron shortage but is uncommon.

To address the issue, use a fertilizer meant for acid-loving plants and shrubs.

FAQ

Do I Need To Plant A Male And A Female Japanese Holly?

Because Japanese holly is dioecious, you’ll need two plants, one male and one female, if you want berries. It is important to note that the shrub will not produce berries until it is six to eight years old.

Is Japanese Holly The Same As A Boxwood?

It has a similar appearance to boxwoods, which is why it is also known as box-leaved holly, but it is a separate species.

How Fast Does A Japanese Holly Grow?

It grows six to twelve inches per year, depending on the cultivar, and is classified slow to medium.

Is Sky Pencil Holly Poisonous?

Yes, Japanese Holly is toxic and should be kept away from children and pets.

Why Does My Sky Pencil Holly Have Yellow Leaves?

The yellow leaves are caused by an iron deficit caused by too little alkaline in the soil and can be remedied with an acid-loving shrub and tree fertilizer.

Is Japanese Holly Easy To Grow?

As long as you start it healthy, Japanese holly is a relatively low-maintenance plant.

What Is The Lifespan Of A Japanese Holly?

When taken care of properly for, a Japanese holly may live for 50 years or more.

Maybe that’s why you’ll sometimes see chervil referred to as “gourmet parsley” – it’s appreciated by foodies and passionate gardeners who want something a little more sophisticated in flavor than your typical parsley.

You may also hear it called French parsley or rich man’s parsley. It’s occasionally referred to as sweet cicely, but it shouldn’t be confused with the plant Myrrhis odorata, which is also commonly known as “sweet chervil.”

The terms “garden” or “salad” placed before the word “chervil” also help to distinguish A. cerefolium from other plants that sometimes go by this common name.

Chervil is one of the herbs commonly found in combinations of fines herbes, a blend that is central to classic French cooking. The mixture also includes parsley, tarragon, and chives.

More common in Europe, I think chervil deserves a more prominent spot in home gardens in the US. Let’s get started – it’s time to learn everything you need to know to grow it at home.

Cultivation and History

Chervil is native to Russia, central Asia, and southern Europe, where it can be found growing like a weed on the sides of roads. Ancient Greeks and Romans used the herb for culinary and medicinal purposes.

The 17th century herbalist Nicholas Culpeper mentions it in his book “Culpeper’s English Physician and Complete Herbal,” making reference to its anti-inflammatory properties.

By the late 1500s, it was cultivated in England and western Europe. Today, it’s particularly popular in France.

It’s pronounced chər-vəl, with a hard “ch” sound, but you’ll often hear it mispronounced sher-vil.

This feathery, fern-like herb grows to be about two feet tall at maturity, with light or dark green leaves resembling parsley. Like other umbellifers, chervil has a long taproot. In the late spring, small white flowers that grow in umbels emerge.

This herb prefers cooler weather and thrives in USDA Hardiness Zones 3 to 7.

In warm climates, Zones 8-10, you can grow it during the winter – it won’t survive in the summer months here.

In addition to sweet cicely, there are a few other plants that often get mixed up with chervil. Wild chervil, Anthriscus sylvestris, also known as cow parsley, is another plant in the same genus.

Cow parsley is edible and you can sometimes purchase seeds. Be cautious about cultivating it because it’s considered a noxious weed in some parts of the US, including Wisconsin and Washington.

Also, don’t confuse salad chervil with turnip-rooted chervil, Chaerophyllum bulbosum.

This plant is a root vegetable that is rarely grown in the US, though you may see seeds for sale from time to time.

It has edible dark gray or brown roots with white flesh, and can be used much like a carrot in cooking.

Propagation

Chervil has a long, delicate taproot and it doesn’t like to be transplanted. The best way to grow it is to sow seeds directly in the garden.

If you happen across transplants at your local nursery, you can just keep them in the container they are growing in, though you’ll get a smaller harvest.

Ideally, look for transplants that were grown in a biodegradable peat pot that can be planted directly in the ground, so you won’t have to disturb the roots.

Direct Seed

Sow seeds in the ground when soil temperatures are between 55 to 65°F and when you know you’ll have two frost-free months ahead. Seeds won’t germinate if the soil is too warm.

In Zones 3 to 7, direct sow in the early spring, or sow seeds in late fall for plants that pop up the following spring.

In Zones 8 and above, sow seeds when daytime temperatures are under 65°F.

This plant loves humus-rich, loamy soil. If your soil isn’t naturally nutritious, amend with well-rotted manure or compost. The soil should be well-draining with a pH of around 6.5 to 7.0.

I like to mix seeds with three parts dry sand to help distribute them more evenly. Sprinkle the seed and sand mix over damp soil, aiming for a few seeds per square inch.

These seeds need light to germinate, so press them lightly into the surface of the planting area.

They take a while to emerge, around 14 days, so be patient.

Keep the soil evenly moist after sowing. Once the seedlings emerge, thin them to six to eight inches apart.

For a continual harvest throughout the growing season, succession sow at two- to three-week intervals in locations where temperatures remain above freezing and below 65°F.

From Seed in Containers

Chervil grows well in containers, as long as you keep the soil evenly moist. Because of its low light requirements and preference for a temperate climate, it lends itself nicely to growing indoors on a windowsill.

You’ll need a container that is at least eight inches wide and a foot deep, to accommodate the taproot.

Fill it with a moisture-retaining potting mix that contains peat moss, coconut coir, or perlite. Press two or three seeds into the top of the mix and keep the soil evenly moist.

Once the seedlings have emerged and are a few inches tall, thin the seedlings so you have one plant per eight-inch-wide pot.

As a Microgreen

This gourmet herb can also be grown as a microgreen. Fill a shallow plastic tray with soilless seed mix and spread the seeds on top. You want to use about a teaspoon of seeds for a three-by-six-inch tray.

Gently press the seeds into the starting mix, and moisten using a spray bottle. Put a piece of clear plastic over the top and poke a few holes in it for ventilation. Keep evenly moist.

After germination, remove the plastic. Place the container in a location where it will get about four hours of sunlight a day, either indoors or out. Keep the sprouts evenly moist, but not waterlogged.

After about 20 days, they should be a few inches tall. You can harvest microgreens by cutting them down to the soil line.

Read more about growing microgreens here.

How to Grow

Chervil has a few essential requirements once it’s established. Namely, it needs to be kept moist and cool. This plant bolts when it gets warm, and drought can rapidly kill it, cause it to bolt, or turn the leaves bitter.

Plant it in a partially shaded location where it will get about four hours of full sun a day, avoiding the heat of the midday sun.

It will thrive in full shade in warmer areas, and can handle a little more sun in cooler regions.

Water at the base of plants, and add a two-inch layer of organic mulch around your plants to retain moisture.

If the top half-inch of the soil has dried out, it’s time to water, because chervil likes to stay evenly moist.

You don’t want to overwater, however. The soil should never be soggy or saturated.

Plants growing in a container should be handled the same way, but you’ll need to use extra care to make sure the soil doesn’t dry out. Self-watering containers are ideal.

Snip any flower buds as they emerge if you want to extend the leaf harvest. Flowers generally appear in May or June in the second year of growth, as the weather begins to warm up.

As biennial plants, the leaves don’t taste as good in the second year of growth, as the plant is putting energy into flower and seed production.

You can either pull them up and plant fresh, or allow them to go to seed for next year.

To save seeds from your plants, wait until the flower heads have dried and turned brown. Snip off the flower heads and place in a cool, dry place until they are completely dry.

Rub the flower heads between your thumb and forefinger to remove the seeds. Sow immediately, or store in a cool, dry place. Stored properly, seeds will remain viable for between one and four years.

Chervil has a short lifespan, and if you added plenty of organic matter to the soil at planting time, you shouldn’t need additional fertilizer.

However, if you are growing in containers, you can add a liquid fertilizer at half strength every four weeks starting after the plant is four weeks old.

Plant with mint, pansies, or radishes. These plants have similar soil and light requirements.

Managing Pests and Disease

Chervil doesn’t usually suffer many problems. There are just a few pests and diseases to keep an eye out for.

Pests

Aphids and slugs are known to make a meal out of chervil now and then. Both are easily addressed, if you catch them early.

Aphids

Aphids suck the sap out of plants at all stages of their growth, and a large enough infestation can stunt or even kill a plant.

Knock aphids off the plant with a strong spray of water from the hose. Use insecticidal soap or neem oil according to the manufacturer’s directions if an infestation persists.

You can learn more about how to manage aphids in our guide.

Snails and Slugs

Chervil favors a cool, shady environment, which is also conducive to slugs and snails.

Slugs and snails like to eat the young seedlings, but generally ignore mature plants.

Control these pests by hand picking in the morning or evening when you see them. You can also use diatomaceous earth sprinkled around plants.

Bait traps filled with beer also work well over time, and if that fails, you can try slug pellets. Be sure to select ones that are safe for use around pets and people.

Read more about ridding your garden of slugs and snails.

Disease

The only diseases that tend to bother this herb are fungal, and even those are infrequent. Monitor your plants to catch any signs of disease early.

Fusarium Root Rot

Root rot is a disease caused by soil-borne Fusarium spp. fungi that attack a plant through the roots. In chervil, it shows up first as wilting foliage.

You may also see yellowing of the lower leaves, which will then turn brown and die. There is no cure, so you’ll need to pull the plant and destroy it.

It can overwinter in the soil, so rotate your crops. Avoid planting anything in the Apiaceae family in that spot for at least five years if your plants have suffered from this disease.

Powdery Mildew

Powdery mildew can be caused by various different types of fungi. If your plants have it, a powdery white mildew that looks a bit like flour will form on the leaves.

This disease attacks in the summer when temperatures are around 70 to 80°F, just when chervil is starting to go to seed and is putting less energy into foliar growth.

If you find that it’s a problem, trim away infected leaves and spray the plant with a homemade mixture of one tablespoon baking soda, one teaspoon dish soap, and four cups water.

Read more about treating powdery mildew attacks here.

Harvesting

Chervil leaves are tastiest when they are young. Snip off an entire branch at the base as needed, aiming to harvest the leaves while they are still small.

If you happen to miss a few leaves and they reach their full size, no worries. They taste delicious, too, if a bit less flavorful. Once the leaves start to turn bronze or purple, they lose their flavor and turn bitter.

You can even cut the entire plant to the ground and it will return for continual harvests throughout the season.

New shoots will continue to emerge until the weather gets warm and the plant flowers and goes to seed. Once the plant bolts, the leaves become bitter.

Harvest the outer leaves often to encourage bushier growth.

New growth emerges from the center of the plant, so pluck leaves down to the leaf node from the outside of the plant. Leaves are generally ready to be picked starting six weeks after planting seeds.

Preserving

Wait to wash your harvest until just before you plan to use it, since wet leaves can rot in the refrigerator. Put them in a sealed container or plastic bag in the fridge, where they will keep for about three days.

Chervil is mild and shouldn’t be cooked. Fresh or dried, it’s best added as a final seasoning or garnish for hot dishes.

It doesn’t retain much of its flavor when it’s dried, but if you have a large harvest, you can place the leaves in a single layer on a screen in a cool, well-ventilated area.

When they are dry and crisp, crumble the leaves and put them in a glass container with a lid.

The leaves freeze well. Rinse the herbs and chop them up finely. Then fill an ice cube tray with the chopped leaves and add a little water.

Place the tray in the freezer. Once they’re frozen, move the cubes into a sealed freezer bag.

You can toss the cubes as needed into dishes like chilled soups and dips.

You can also freeze bunches of leaves. Wash and dry the herbs and bundle them together.

Place them in a freezer bag. This method works better than frozen cubes for use in dishes that won’t benefit from additional water.

Recipes and Cooking Ideas

Chervil is a nutritious plant, with high levels of potassium, as well as vitamins A and C.

This herb is famous as an ingredient in bearnaise sauce, but it also works well in egg dishes, salads, as a topping for fish, on potatoes, or on sliced garden-fresh tomatoes.

You can learn more about how to use chervil in your cooking on our sister site, Foodal.

The microgreens are delicious as an addition to salads or as a topping for soup and omelets. Chervil has a very mild flavor, so I will emphasize again that you generally don’t want to cook it – it’s best to toss it into your hot dishes at the last minute.

Make an herbed compound butter by chopping up a tablespoon of leaves and mixing them into a softened half cup of butter. You can do the same with mayonnaise.

You can also make chervil into a pesto, or put the leaves in white wine vinegar to make an herbed vinegar.

To make an herbed vinegar, add one cup of roughly chopped chervil leaves to two cups of vinegar. Let it steep for several days in a cool, dark place. Strain out the leaves and keep the bottle tightly covered.

Quick Reference Growing Guide

Plant Type:	Biennial herb	Water Needs:	High
Native to:	Russia, western Asia	Maintenance:	Low
Hardiness (USDA Zone):	3-10	Tolerance:	Frost
Season:	Spring-fall	Soil Type:	Loamy
Exposure:	Part shade	Soil pH:	6.5-7.5
Time to Maturity:	6 weeks	Soil Drainage:	Well-draining
Spacing:	6-8 inches	Attracts:	Bees, parasitic wasps, parsley worms
Planting Depth:	Surface, cover lightly (seed)	Companion Planting:	Mint, pansies, radishes
Height:	24 inches	Family:	Apiaceae
Spread:	12-24 inches	Genus:	Anthricus
Pests & Diseases:	Aphids, slugs; Fusarium root rot, powdery mildew	Species::	cerefolium

Buffalo grass is a common blue-green turfgrass found in North American countries such as Canada, the United States, and Mexico. It grows well in full sun and spreads quickly on its own.

What is Buffalo Grass?

Buffalo grass (Bouteloua dactyloides) is a low-maintenance, warm-season grass recognized for its blue to gray-green leaf blades and drought resistance. It is a natural lawn grass in North America, vying with blue grama as the most common turf type in the shortgrass prairies of Nebraska, Texas, and other heartland regions. ‘Cody’ and ‘Texoka’ are two well-known buffalo grass varieties.

The term buffalo grass comes from the fact that it was extensively fed to bison and buffalo over the Great Plains in the eighteenth century. It has since grown significantly more domesticated. Buffalo grass lawns, as well as buffalo grass golf courses, are fairly common.

How Does Buffalo Grass Spread?

Buffalo grass spreads by rhizomes (underground, stemlike roots) as well as stolons. (above-ground connections between plants). This results in a root system that is both durable and self-replicating after seeding. This grass is dioecious, which means it has both male and female plants. Male plant seed heads aid female flowers in grass reproduction. The more frequently you mow your buffalo grass, the easier it is for this seeding process to go quickly and aggressively.

How Long Does Buffalo Grass Take To Establish?

Buffalo grass can germinate in 15 to 21 days or more. As a result, watering the lawn many times per day will be necessary until a good amount of grass develops. We’ll get into recommended practices for buffalo grass care momentarily, but first, let’s look at how long buffalo grass takes to spread when it grows.

How Do You Encourage Buffalo Grass To Spread?

Mowing on a regular basis is the best way to foster the spread of buffalo grass. Of course, you must stop irrigation one or two days before cutting the lawn to allow the soil to dry properly. Mowing can assist buffalo grass in spreading and filling up open areas. It may also aid in the control of weeds that have begun to sprout in your yard. Extra seed can also be scratched into open or thin patches in your new grass to encourage growth.

What Is The Best Fertiliser For Buffalo Grass?

You must fertilise your grass as needed for it to be healthy. This is one of the four most important aspects of maintaining a beautiful lawn. A slow-release liquid lawn fertilizer is the best form of fertilizer for buffalo. Buffalo grass is quite resilient, yet it, like most other grasses, loses vitality during the colder months.

As a result, utilizing a simple liquid lawn fertilizer will bring out the best in your buffalo grass all year!

Why A Buffalo Lawn Is So Valuable

Remember that all of the time and effort you spend into maintaining your buffalo grass is a fantastic investment. According to a national survey conducted by real estate firm Raine & Horne, having a lawn can increase the value of your home by up to 20%. That is a stunning sum, equivalent to an average of $110,000 in Australian property values.

Taking care of your grass will not only add value to your home, but it will also boost its buyability. (should you wish to sell up in the future that is). In either scenario, you will have a beautiful and long-lasting lawn that will be the envy of your neighbors!

Is Buffalo Grass Easy To Grow?

Buffalo grass is rather simple to grow. It is drought-tolerant, which means it requires less rain or less regular watering, reducing the amount of maintenance required dramatically. Buffalo grass prefers full sun, although it is not finicky about its surroundings.

Buffalo grass has a tendency to spread, so it may require occasional trimming or edging to keep it out of other places, but this is the primary problem that many people who plant it face. Some modern buffalo grass types have been developed to be even more resistant to drought, heat, and weeds, making it even lower-maintenance than it originally was.

Buffalo grass generally outperforms weeds due to its height, giving them little room to establish themselves. Some weeds may still infiltrate your yard, but they will be fewer in number.

Should You Remove Runners From Buffalo Grass

Buffalo grass runners are vital for filling in bare places on your lawn. However, runners creeping into flower beds, gardens, or onto paved areas should be removed. This will maintain your yard neat and prevent Buffalo grass from taking over areas where grass should not grow.

• Allow Buffalo grass runners to grow in your lawn; they create dense grass and keep broadleaf weeds at bay.
• Remove invasive runners from garden beds and pavement areas.
• Errant Buffalo grass runners that grow upwards rather than along the soil surface should be mowed.

Buffalo grass runners may stick upwards rather than creep down the surface of the lawn in some situations. You should mow these stray runners to keep your lawn looking neat.

Does Buffalo Lawn Grass Have Runners?

During the summer, buffalo grass generates a lot of runners. Unlike some other grasses, Buffalo grass spreads only by runners. During the summer, it is critical to water and fertilize Buffalo grass. If the grass is subjected to drought over the summer and does not develop runners, you will miss out on new growth until the following year. This makes it critical to water and fertilize your Buffalo grass lawn during the hot months.

Growth Cycle Of Buffalo Grass

Sun-loving buffalo grass (Buchloe dactyloides) grows best in temperatures ranging from 80 to 95 degrees Fahrenheit. Warm soil, up to 110 degrees Fahrenheit, promotes quick germination and foliage growth. This warm-season grass prefers USDA plant hardiness zones 4 through 11, and it has a distinct growth cycle that you should be aware of in order to properly care for it.

Germination

Buffalo grass is a low-maintenance grass that is primarily grown from seed. Wait until soil temperatures reach 70 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit before beginning any seeding initiatives; planting buffalo grass in midspring to midsummer is the optimal period for this soil temperature. Seeds take longer to sprout if planted earlier in the spring.

Buffalo grass need warmth to establish quickly. In optimum conditions, excellent seeds germinate in around seven days. Because of their rapid establishment, these seedlings are highly competitive with germinating weed seeds for the same soil space.

Stolon Spread

Buffalo grass remains close to the ground after germination and begins to spread after four weeks. Stolons, or plant stems that grow above ground, spread throughout the earth. As the stem contacts the soil, new roots form to sustain the stem and foliage above.

This spreading technique explains why this turf is easier to manage: it expends its energy on horizontal spreading rather than tall, grass blade growth. Buffalo grass only grows to a height of 3 to 6 inches. The stolons spread swiftly, forming a dense turf that suffocates any struggling weeds.

Vigorous Growth Period

Buffalo grass, which has a characteristic bluish-green color, grows quickly throughout the summer. However, because this period corresponds with severe drought, you must irrigate buffalo grass on a regular basis to keep its color and growth pattern. Maintaining a well-draining and nutrient-rich soil structure adds to summer grass growth success by retaining water for root uptake. Plant buffalo grass in full sun and water it thoroughly for the best growth.

Dormancy

Buffalo grass enters dormancy as the soil cools in the fall and winter approaches. The grass may appear yellow or brown, although this is not caused by disease. This natural dormancy color will be present till spring. You can avoid a brown lawn in the winter by overseeding with a cool-season turf species. Cool-season grasses, which keep their green hue throughout the winter, provide some life to your lawn until the buffalo grass grows back in the spring.

Conclusion

To summarize, it can take up to 4 weeks for a buffalo lawn to grow and begin spreading properly. If you follow the lawncare instructions stated above, you should have no serious problems with your new lawn. If you find yourself feeling a little overwhelmed and in need of some additional guidance, contact a reputed lawn care provider, who will take good care of you.

Yuccas are handsome ornamentals, with long, spiky leaves that add vertical evergreen interest throughout the garden.

And they feature superb spikes of cream to white, bell-shaped flowers in summer – sometimes!

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These easy-care perennial shrubs and trees hail from hot, arid regions of the Americas and the Caribbean. They need little in the way of care or maintenance to thrive.

But flower production is often spotty and hard to predict, leaving the gardener disappointed when they don’t bloom.

In ideal conditions, new plants in many species won’t flower until they’re about three years old. And sometimes, it can just take a new specimen a while to settle in before producing flowers.

Overwatering and overfertilizing can also hinder blooms… but not enough water or nutrients can do the same. And yuccas flower on individual rosettes, so pruning is another step that can help promote consistent flowering.

Fortunately, it only takes a bit of care and maintenance to encourage their dazzling appearance every year.

So if your garden is missing out on a regular show of yucca flowers, join us now for a look at the easy fixes for failing to bloom!

Here’s everything we’ll cover up ahead:

Yucca Basics

Yucca is a genus in the agave subfamily of the asparagus (Asparagaceae) family that contains over 50 species of spiky bushes and trees that flourish in hot, arid regions of the Caribbean, Central America, and North America.

Sizes vary from compact, low-growing shrubs to large trees, like the Joshua trees (Y. brevifolia) which can live for 150 years!

Drought-tolerant succulents from desert regions, they can survive for months without water, using supplies stored in their trunks or bulbous bases instead.

The sharp, spiky leaves add outstanding texture to garden settings, making a dramatic specimen plant or handsome privacy screen, and many do well in containers as well.

Different species flower at different times. And flowering times can even vary between individual specimens, although they tend to appear during the warmest months of the summer growing season.

Yuccas spread by rhizomes, producing new rosettes, or offsets, that are attached to the parent plant.

Each rosette only flowers once, then slowly dies off – but plants begin producing new rosettes well before the old one disappears.

The main rosette can produce flowers in two to three years, given ideal conditions – but it can take up to five or even six years in partial shade or moist soil.

And as yuccas grow, they produce more and more rosettes, so the appearance of flowers typically becomes more frequent.

Unfortunately, indoor yuccas rarely receive the amount of light needed to bloom… don’t hold your breath waiting for these to flower!

And while yuccas are typically hardy in USDA Zones 5 to 11, there are species able to handle colder conditions in Zones 4 and 3, such as Adam’s needle (Y. filimentosa) and small soapweed (Y. glauca).

You can learn more about how to grow and care for yucca plants in our guide.

Now, let’s look at some specifics to encourage those fabulous blooms.

Light and Location

To encourage blooms, give your yuccas a full sun location, even in areas with intense afternoon heat.

They can do well out of direct sunlight provided the light is bright – like when it gives a strong bounce or reflection off a fence or wall.

And they grow well in partial shade as well. But flowering is negatively impacted in low light or shady locations.

These plants also require soil with excellent drainage to prevent root rot, and prefer a gritty or sandy texture with a slightly acidic to neutral pH of 5.5 to 6.5.

Freezing temperatures can also cause flower buds to fail.

In locations that push the edges of a plant’s cold hardiness, or during unusual cold snaps, tie the outer leaves together over the main bud with a bit of string.

Come spring, the outer leaves might die off from the cold, but if the bud is intact and healthy, flowers are still likely.

Feeding and Water

Yucca is one of those rare plants that seems to thrive on neglect and poor conditions. While they grow well whilst being ignored, this tactic doesn’t always produce flowers in temperate gardens.

Give your plants a fighting chance to flower with regular water and fertilizer during the growing season.

Water your yucca every two to three weeks, watering thoroughly to a depth of 18 inches to ensure the entire root system is hydrated.

Fertilize every four to six weeks using a nutrient blend designed for cacti and succulents with a formula slightly lower in nitrogen and higher in phosphorus – this ratio helps to keep foliage manageable and shapely while focusing energy into flower development.

Container Care

For yuccas to thrive in containers, use large pots to support the substantial rhizomes and ensure they have drainage holes.

I prefer to add a two- to three-inch layer of drainage material to containers, such as pebbles or broken pottery, to keep water away from the roots.

Fill containers to three or four inches from the rim with a mix of potting medium and grit, such as coarse landscape sand, pea gravel, or granite chips – use 70 percent potting soil to 30 percent grit.

Choose cultivars that are suitable for your winter weather and that are a manageable size for containers.

Y. nana is a dwarf variety ideal for containers, and Y. filimentosa, Y. flaccida, and Y. gloriosa also work well in pots and planters.

Feed and water container plants more frequently than those grown in-ground. Water every one to two weeks or when the top two to three inches of soil is dry.

While regular watering is best to encourage flowers, resist the urge to overwater – which is one of the main reasons these plants fail or succumb to rot.

Fertilize container plants every three to four weeks as outlined above.

Containers and planters should be placed in the brightest light possible.

Pruning

Pruning dead or dying leaves and old flower stalks can also help to encourage blooms. It focuses energy into new growth and flower production instead of trying to support dying materials.

For best results, prune in early spring as plants are preparing for a new season of growth.

Use clean, sharp garden shears or scissors to cut off dead leaves at the bottom of rosettes, cutting close to the stem.

If you want to remove lower, downward-facing leaves – the ones that make a “skirt” – start at the bottom of the leaves, cutting close to the stem. Continue removing leaves to about halfway up the stalk or stop when you’re satisfied with the look.

After flowers have died off, remove the flower stalk by cutting about three inches above the stalk’s base.

Bring on the Blooms!

With their tall stalks of handsome, bell-shaped blooms, yuccas add outstanding floral finery to the summer garden – and a few simple steps can help bring on the blooms year after year!

Water and fertilize regularly, and locate plants in the brightest light possible. Be patient with new plants as they can take a few years before flowering begins. It’s well worth the wait!

Do you folks regularly see yucca flowers on your plants? Share your blooming tricks in the comments section below.

And for more savvy succulent info and tips, add these guides to your reading list:

Even to experts, rose classifications can be a complicated subject.

We’re going to shed some light on the topic. Here’s what you can expect:

How Roses Are Classified

Alright, get your notebooks out, because we’re about to dive into it. 

The American Rose Society is the official registrar of new roses for the entire world and is known as the “International Registration Authority for Roses.” They’re the ones who decide how new cultivars are categorized.

Broadly, there are three major groups: old garden, species, and modern.

According to the American Rose Society, all roses are classified into several additional groupings, as either species (or wild), old garden (or antique), modern, hybrid tea and grandiflora, floribunda and polyantha, miniature (or miniflora), climber, or shrub.

Then there are further sub-classifications, like bourbon, China, damask, hybrid wichurana, ramblers, and large-flowered climbers. We won’t cover all of them here, but we will discuss some of the more popular sub-classifications.

First, let’s talk about old gardens. Alba, (or white roses), Ayrshire, bourbon, boursault, centifolia, China, damask, gallica, moss, noisette, Portland, and tea are all old garden roses. These were all types that existed before 1867, when the first hybrid tea was introduced. 

Speaking of, the first hybrid tea was created by French flower breeder Jean-Baptiste Andre Guillot, which he named ‘La France.’

If this isn’t confusing enough for you, there’s more, so stick with me. You can generally group old garden types into two categories.

The first is plants that were bred from the China rose (R. chinensis), which tend to be repeat bloomers.

Then there are those that were bred before R. chinensis was introduced to Europeans in about 1792. These tend to bloom only a single time. Whew! 

Moving on, modern types include floribunda, grandiflora, hybrid musk, hybrid rugosa, hybrid tea, hybrid wichurana, miniature, miniflora, polyantha, and shrub roses. 

Species, or wild roses, are classified all by themselves.

Now I’ll let you in on a little secret. There really isn’t any technical process for determining whether a rose is classified as a hybrid tea rather than a polyantha, for example.

When a breeder creates a new hybrid, they decide how to classify it when they register it with the American Rose Society.

That means a breeder might decide to classify a hybrid that they bred from a hybrid tea and a polyantha as a polyantha.

They can do this even if the plant appears to have more characteristics of a hybrid tea. But you don’t even have to choose one of the parent plants when you’re classifying a new plant. 

Some breeders choose to classify their hybrids as whichever type is most popular at the time to help its chances commercially, or because they aren’t sure exactly what the parentage is.

Others ignore parentage and choose to classify a plant according to its appearance, so it might technically be a grandiflora-tea hybrid, but it looks more like a floribunda, so that’s how it is classified by the breeder.

There is an official classification committee, and they are working on sorting things out so that they are a bit more organized, but for now, this is how things stand.

In other words, don’t become too wrapped up in classifications.

While it’s useful to know them because they give you a general idea of how a type will look and behave, the most important thing is to read up on the specific cultivar itself.

You might think you are looking for a floribunda because you want a plant that has abundant blossoms, but you might end up picking a polyantha that is a more abundant bloomer than the typical floribunda.

Or take the ‘Montecito’ cultivar. It’s classified as a shrub, so you might buy it to act as a cute little accent in the garden next to your house. But it grows up to 50 feet tall, so you’d be in for a big surprise if you didn’t read up on its characteristics first!

Below are the different classifications and a few of my favorites from each one.

How did we pick these particular plants? 

The recommended cultivars and hybrids in this guide are more disease resistant, require less pruning, are known to be generally healthy and hardy, or aren’t bothered as much by pests as other varieties out there, so it’s easier for the newbie to keep them happy and healthy.

Don’t feel overwhelmed. Keep in mind that the best one for you and your garden is going to be one that was developed to grow in your zone and conditions, and that has the characteristics that you’re looking for.

In addition to reading this guide and our guide to growing roses, if you still have questions or need suggestions, your local extension office is an invaluable resource for figuring out the ideal bloomer for you.

Damask

Damask roses fall under the old garden grouping, and while they are beautiful and all, my goodness do they smell incredible.

Damask is considered the quintessential rose scent in the perfume industry because it is rich, sweet, spicy, and floral.

When you buy a rose-scented candle or perfume, it’s the damask scent the manufacturer is trying to recreate.

Damask is also the type that is most often used to make rose water, powdered roses, and oil.

Watch out, though. They’re also some of the thorniest cultivars out there, so smell but don’t touch! Generally, they grow to about seven feet tall and four feet wide, and most have foliage that is somewhat grayish-green.

‘Botzaris’ has stunning snow white flowers with masses of petals on a compact shrub. It has a particularly pungent damask scent. 

‘Madame Hardy’ (also known as ‘Felicite Hardy) lives up to her name. This classic white type can handle some shade and the clusters of blossoms have a delicate lemon scent.

These bloom just one time per season, but they produce a ton of flowers. 

Floribunda

Floribundas are in their own classification category and were created by hybridizing tea and polyanthas.

They retain some of polyantha’s hardiness and produce bouquet-like clusters of flowers. The individual blossoms are smaller than those of hybrid teas, but you generally get more of them per plant.

Floribundas tend to do better in cold and wet weather than hybrid teas and bloom continually, rather than in cycles of every six to seven weeks like hybrid teas do.

Grandiflora

Grandifloras are their own classification and were created as a cross between hybrid tea and floribundas.

The blossoms are the size of tea roses but they cluster together like those of a floribunda. They tend to grow taller than any other modern type – up to nine feet or more.

The downside is that they lack that strong fragrance of other types.

‘Crazy Love’ is so pest and disease-resistant that you may forget it’s a rose. It has coppery orange double blossoms and an intense floral fragrance. 

‘Queen Elizabeth’ produces picture-perfect blooms that deserve a royal crown.

Hybrid Musk

Hybrid musks fall under the modern classification and are highly fragrant and disease resistant. They can handle part shade and die back to the ground each year in colder climates.

‘Lexy’ has clusters of 70-petal blossoms in delicate pink. It resists pests and disease and blooms continually without deadheading throughout the growing season.

‘Penelope’ is often described as “vigorous” because it grows rapidly, and this variety is hard to kill, even with a little neglect.

It has semi-double blossoms that are a delicate yellow at the base fading to pale pink on the tips. It has a heady, bold fragrance that will knock you off your feet.

Hybrid Tea

Hybrid teas, which have their own classification, and are the most popular type right now because they have picture-perfect blossoms that are large and fragrant.

There is usually one flower per stem, making them ideal for cutting. 

‘Mellow Yellow’ has – you guessed it – yellow double blooms, with a fruity scent to boot.

These are reliable growers and the stems are long and straight, so they’re perfect if you want to cut the flowers for arrangements.

If you want a flower that will turn the neighbors’ heads (as well as your own), plant ‘Double Delight.’

Inducted into the World Federation of Rose Societies Hall of Fame in 1985, ‘Double Delight’ hits all the right spots.

The scent alone makes it a worthy addition to the garden, with intense notes of spice, and then there are the blossoms.

The soft, massive petals start out buttery yellow in the center and fade to a strawberry red toward the outside of each bloom.

Large Flowered Climbers

Originally part of the modern category, large flowered climbers are now categorized on their own as they gain popularity.

Large flowered climbers are characterized by – you got it – really large blossoms and a climbing growth habit… usually.

This category is sort of a catch-all for climbers that don’t fit under any other classification. Some are repeat bloomers, and they are generally hardy in Zones 4-9.

But again, be sure to read up on the specific cultivar, because there are some plants in this category that don’t climb much higher than four feet.

Wicuranas are the variety that some people know as ramblers, while gigantea tend to have a cascading growth habit.

‘Altissimo’ is a classic large-flowered variety from this category. It grows about nine feet tall with masses of large, blood-red blossoms. It blooms continually all summer long.

Miniflora

Miniature and miniflora types only grow to be an average of about 18 inches tall and have proportionately small blossoms. You can’t go wrong with any mini cultivar, and they all are perfect for beginners.

That’s because they don’t require complicated pruning, they resist pests and diseases, and they can handle a variety of soils.

A category in and of itself, you can also find minifloras that are miniaturized hybrid tea types or expressions of other rose forms.

Modern

The modern classification is sort of a catch-all for a group of different roses bred after 1867.

Technically, types like grandiflora and polyantha are modern, but they have their own categories according to the American Rose Society. That’s because they have become quite a distinct class on their own, with unique growth habits.

Modern types that don’t have their own classification include hybrid kordesii, hybrid moyesii, hybrid musk, and hybrid rugosa. 

Rugosa roses are a good option for people who live in cold climates or who have struggled with keeping their plants alive.

They’re drought tolerant, disease and pest resistant, and don’t need much maintenance. In fact, they do best when you only fertilize them rarely, if at all.

Parkland is a series of rugosa hybrids bred in Canada, where this type is particularly popular. ‘Morden Sunrise’ features double yellow-orange blossoms with dark green foliage.

All of the plants in this series grow in Zones 2-7.

Moss

I want to call out moss and climbing moss roses because I can’t tell you how often they get confused with moss rose (Portulaca grandiflora), which is from the same family as purslane.

Moss roses from the Rosa genus are actually antique roses that stand out because of the hairy, greenish-brown growth that forms on their leaf stalks, calyces, flower stalks, and stems.

This “hair” is incredibly soft and excretes a sticky substance that has a strong scent that smells like a cross between a damask, a pine tree, and an apple.

This old garden category plant is a centifolia damask hybrid, which accounts for its scent.

Gaining massive popularity in the 1800s before fading out, they grow to about eight feet tall and four feet wide. Sadly, they aren’t widely available these days. 

If you find one in your area, I highly recommend giving it a try. Beyond the stunning smell, the frilly blossoms come in deep, vibrant fuchsia, crimson red, pastel pink, and even pink stripes.

Most are one-time bloomers, but you’ll have a ton of blossoms during that period. Some are repeat bloomers, though.

‘Lilac Pink’ is a single bloomer with fragrant, fuchsia double blossoms that grows best in Zones 6-10. The blossoms stick around for weeks, but they also make great cut flowers for a floral display.

‘Capitaine John Ingram’ has massive, dark crimson double blooms. It’s another single bloomer and also does best in Zones 6-10.

Old Garden

Old garden types, often called old-fashioned, antique, or heritage roses, are heirlooms that existed before the first hybrid teas were bred.

The flowers smell incredible, they have colorful hips that are ideal for use in cooking, and they are resistant to insects and disease.

The downside is that they’re a bit more finicky to grow than some types, and they don’t continue blossoming for as long as other varieties. Some blossom just once and are done. Most are hardy in Zones 4-9.

‘Alba Maxima’ is an Alba variety, likely a descendant of the ‘Alba Semi-Plena.’

If you’ve ever heard of the White Rose of York, dating back to the War of the Roses in 15th century England, it was most likely an ‘Alba Semi-Plena’ cultivar that the members of the House of York favored as their symbol. 

This lovely double-bloom ivory white flower is incredibly fragrant and hardy. Sometimes called the Jacobite rose or ‘Great Double White,’ it also has large, tasty hips that make a beautiful display on the plant in the fall.

‘Cardinal de Richelieu’ is a hybrid gallica with burgundy blossoms that flower continually from spring through midsummer.

It’s a vigorous grower that is tolerant of neglect and of colder climates all the way down to Zone 3. The hips are particularly large. 

‘Marie Pavie’ has semi-double flowers in a delicate light pink color. They are intensely fragrant, and grow on thornless stems. This repeat bloomer lends itself well to containers or hedges.

This is one of the hardier antique types. It can withstand cold weather down to Zone 3, wet weather, and diseases better than some others.

‘Sydonie’ (or ‘Sidonie’) is one of my all-time favorites, not just in the antique category, but of any classification.

It’s a Portland rose with perpetual double blossoms that have over fifty petals in a medium pink color that is darker towards the center, and fades to a lighter color at the edges. 

The large blossoms also have an intense damask-like fragrance and the stems aren’t extremely thorny. Honestly, people often mistake it for a peony in my garden, so if you love the look of a peony but want the characteristics of a rose, pick this one.

Unlike many Portland roses, it’s disease resistant. It doesn’t do as well in the cold, however, and is only hardy down to Zone 5. 

Polyantha

Polyantha plants are compact and feature cupped blossoms that bloom all summer long. They’re known for being tough and disease resistant without needing a ton of pruning. 

Some of them are climbers, others are compact enough for growing in containers, and many of them are great as hedges. 

‘Cecile Brunner’ looks like a delicate tea rose, but don’t let it fool you. This pretty pink specimen is a sturdy plant, known for its pest and disease resistance, and with more tiny blossoms than you’ll know what to do with.

You can enjoy a whiff of the intensely sweet fragrance whenever you walk within 10 feet of it, and this type is perfect for climbing all over a large arbor.

Species or Wild

Wild roses, also known as species types, are those that grow in nature – or are at least more closely related to the wild plant that started it all. 

Technically, many so-called wild varieties that you can purchase have been bred over the years to create larger blossoms and more colors than nature provides.

Then there are the true wildflowers that you can find growing across North America, Europe, and Asia. These come in fewer colors, with pink being the most common. You’ll also see a few red, yellow, white, and purple options.

The simple flowers only have five petals. And they’re all vigorous and resistant to diseases.

While they aren’t as highly prized for their blossoms, which tend to be a bit less showy and full than the modern cultivated types, their hips are perfect for making jam.

The plants spread readily through seedlings or suckers, and they can take over an empty corner of the garden.

If you are really scared to get going with these flowers, pick a wild variety. These need hardly any attention, can thrive in just about any type of soil, and aren’t too fussy about sun exposure.

You don’t need to deadhead or prune them to keep them blooming and healthy. The only pruning you will need to do is to limit their spread. In fact, your biggest challenge may be keeping the plants in check. 

When I was a kid, my teacher sent me home with a potted wild rose as a reward for good grades. After a few years, my mom wanted to get rid of it to establish a raised bed garden.

I stubbornly dug it up myself, getting maybe six inches of the roots, and planted it in a part of the garden that I selected because I didn’t think my mom would notice, since nothing else was growing there. 

It was a partially shady spot and with absolutely no soil prep, I plopped my trophy in the ground. Can you believe it not only survived, but took off and filled in the entire area without any help from me? That’s how hardy wild types can be. 

‘Lady Banks’ has sunny yellow flowers with frilly miniature petals. 

‘Marbled Pink’ has semi-double blossoms that fade from the white center to a pale pink on the tips of the petals. The blossoms are about a half inch wide. 

‘Hemisphaerica’ has one-inch, vibrant yellow double blossoms. They almost appear to be like old types because they’re so frilly and full, but these are wild ones.

Dog roses are classic climbers with five-petaled pink blossoms that have milky white centers. The hips are hard to beat.

They are plump, juicy red treasures that can be used to make an intensely flavorful syrup. And they’re also a good option if you’re hoping to use the hips medicinally or in tea.

Shrub

While the term “shrub” may refer to a growth pattern, it’s also often used as a designation for a shrub-like type that is hardy and doesn’t fit into another of the categories described above.

If you’ve ever heard of “English roses,” created by the breeder David Austin, these fall into the shrub classification.

You really could put the Knock Out® series in a classification of its own since it has become incredibly popular and varied.

But it’s considered a shrub, though climbers and miniature sizes are available as well.

Knock Outs are an excellent option for beginning growers because they are disease-resistant, maintain a compact growth habit without intense pruning, are drought-tolerant, and don’t require deadheading.

The Knock Out® series was first developed in 2000 and quickly became the best-selling rose in the US!

The breeder wanted it to be the ultimate “low maintenance” grower. These come in a variety of colors and sizes, including bright red, peach, yellow, white, and pink.

Color Classes

Not another class! Don’t worry, this classification system is much easier. All new hybrids are assigned a color class when they are registered. There are eighteen colors:

You’re probably asking yourself, “Where’s the purple!?”

There are absolutely purple ones out there, like the stunning ‘Ebb Tide’ floribunda, but there isn’t an official purple category.

Purple roses are usually classified as mauves, but they’ll also sometimes fall under the red or pink categories.

As the earliest-flowering stone fruit, the almond tree has the added bonus of also being an ornamental flowering tree, growing 10 to 15 feet high, and replete with fragrant pink or white flowers in early spring.

Beautiful as well as delicious – what’s not to like?

As often is the case with beautiful things, these delicious nuts come with a few hang-ups… read on to find out more about what it takes to grow almond trees.

Cultivation and Historical Use

Cultivated as early as 4,000 BC, almonds (Prunus dulcis) are thought to be native to central and southwestern Asia, although their exact ancestry is unknown.

Throughout history, these nuts have had a lot of religious and cultural importance. They even merit a mention in the Bible, when in the Book of Numbers, Aaron’s rod blossomed and bore almonds.

The Romans also held a special place in their hearts for almonds, showering newlyweds with the nuts as a fertility charm, and there are records suggesting that they were a prized ingredient for Egypt’s Pharaohs.

Today, some Americans give out sugared almonds at weddings, as a representation of children, happiness, romance, good health and fortune. In Sweden, they are hidden in cinnamon-flavored rice puddings at Christmas to bring luck in the coming year to whoever finds them.

Explorers are supposed to have eaten them while traveling the Silk Road between Asia and the Mediterranean, where it didn’t take long before they took root and flourished, especially in Spain and Italy.

Today, we often associate the nut with California, although they actually weren’t introduced there until the mid 1700s, when they were brought over from Spain by the Franciscan Padres.

They didn’t immediately take to life in California, however, and it took years of research and crossbreeding to help them adapt to their new, cooler life on the coast.

By the 1870s, they’d cracked the problem (along with many, many nuts in the process) and now they are firmly established in California’s Central Valley.

Growing Conditions

Almonds are sensitive souls, and are fussy about their growing conditions, which unfortunately means they can be about as challenging to grow as they are delicious.

The trees require hot and dry conditions, thriving in USDA Plant Hardiness Zones 7 through 9 as they especially enjoy areas that have long summers with hot, dry, sunny weather, and therefore a long growing season.

That being said, they also have a need for a certain amount of cold – around 200 to 500 “chill hours” per year at temperatures less than 45°F (7°C ) – to successfully break the dormancy of their buds. This is why they’re not well adapted to tropical climates.

They are particularly intolerant of wet soils and frosts, and as such are well suited to places like California and the East Coast. This is a problem for the early flowering almond, which is particularly vulnerable to frosts.

P. dulcis loves the sun. Although they will tolerate partial shade, they won’t flower or fruit nearly as well as they would if planted in in full sunlight.

Although they prefer well-drained, deep, loamy soils, they will tolerate other soil types, including poor soils, as long as they are not wet or poorly draining, which they absolutely cannot abide.

Conversely, and somewhat counter-intuitively, the trees need ample rainfall – around 500 to 600 millimeters or 20 to 25 inches annually – or irrigation to produce good yields and well-filled nuts, although they will survive with less water.

Traditionally, they weren’t irrigated until farmers discovered they responded well to just the right amount of help given at the right time.

They especially benefit from extra watering in early spring, during the summer, and sometimes during the first months of autumn, but really need a helping hand at the beginning of the growing season, as starting off the season too dry can result in a significant decrease in production.

However, it is important not to water them around or near harvest time, with commercial growers stopping irrigation around three to four days before harvest.

This means it’s a bit of a guessing game when growing these, and you have to find just the right balance to achieve a good harvest.

Almonds are generally not self-pollinating, so cross-pollination with a second variety is usually required for fruit production.

Recommended Varieties and Cultivars

When choosing your tree, the most important thing to keep in mind is your growing conditions, and which hardiness Zone you’re in.

Another top tip is to make sure you buy a sweet almond if you plan to eat the nuts rather than a bitter almond tree, typically an ornamental which is grown more for aesthetic reasons.

There are quite a few standard varieties, including ‘Carmel,’ which gives an excellent, well protected nut and is also an excellent pollenator, and ‘Mission’ which, despite being a late bloomer, is a very productive tree.

Before planting, the roots should be given a thorough dosing with water, ensuring that they’re thoroughly wet before they are put into the ground to to get them off to a good start in life.

The hole should be dug wide and deep enough for the whole root system, with special attention given to the tap root so that it’s not bent out of shape.

As with many nut trees, almonds are especially sensitive to tampering with their tap root, so they should never be trimmed or forced into a hole that’s not big enough to accommodate it. The rest of the roots should also be sensitively handled, and carefully spread out to prevent matting.

They should be planted to the same depth they were grown at the nursery (you should see the noticeable color difference between the roots and the rest of the plant, which indicates which part should be buried). This is the same for both bare root plants and potted trees.

Soil should be firmly compressed around the roots as you refill the hole. Once the hole has been refilled, you should give your baby tree two buckets of water to settle it in well to its new home.

At this point, you can also give your tree a little boost by adding some fertilizer, though it is best to wait until spring to fertilize if planting in the fall.

Propagation

Like most fruit and nut trees, almonds are normally propagated by budding. This is by far the easiest and most effective way to grow them and ensure that they grow true to their parent plant.

By Root Graft

A hardy root stock (often of peach or the more resilient bitter almond variety) is used to give the tree resistance to soil-borne diseases, and then the fruit-bearing branch is grafted onto the root stock.

Using grafted almonds makes the trees much more resilient, and they often grow much faster than from seed. This is particularly the case for those that have a peach root stock, which generally tends to be more productive than those grafted with almond root stock.

A further complication with almond trees is that you have to have at least two different, but compatible, varieties so that they can cross pollinate, usually via bees.

From the Nut

It’s perfectly acceptable to try growing your own from seed for a backyard project, as long as you are aware that it will take much longer to bear fruit, and any nuts that are produced may not be of the same quality as that of the parent plants.

Find fresh nuts – not roasted like you find in the supermarkets. Leave them to soak for around 48 hours, and then place them on a wet paper towel in a plastic bag and place them in the refrigerator.

About three to four weeks in the refrigerator should do the trick, and the almonds should start sprouting. At this point, they’re ready to pot in a nice, well-drained soil mix (something like a mix of sand and compost) and placed in direct sunlight, ideally on a windowsill where it’s nice and warm.

The important thing is to keep them moist, but never soggy. After they have reached about six inches in height, they’re ready to be moved up to a bigger pot size.

Pruning

Pruning has different purposes at different stages of the tree’s life.

Pruning young almond trees determines their future shape, and therefore their productivity and the quality of the nuts produced. It’s important to get it right to ensure a good harvest.

Almonds are commonly pruned into a “vase” type shape with three to four main branches, which also allows for ease of harvesting. If done correctly, the “vase” shape makes the tree more vigorous, more productive, and guarantees a longer lifespan.

Pruning after maturity, however, is more about maintaining the shape established in the early stages of the tree’s life. Pruning renews the tree and stimulates it to produce more. Around 20 percent of an older tree’s canopy should be pruned back each year.

For more information on proper pruning practices, check out our guide.

Harvesting

Harvesting looks really fun, and that’s because it is!

Safely wrapped up in their shells, all it takes is a hard shake to make the nuts fall to the ground, where they can be gathered.

Top tip: it’s best to shake the trees over a sheet so they can be easily collected afterwards.

You’ll know they’re ripe for a picking (or a shaking) when the hulls start to split open, often from late summer through to October in the US. If you wait until about three-quarters of the nuts have started to split, it’s a safe bet to harvest them.

The nuts must be dried before consumption, which can either be done by leaving them on the ground for a few days after shaking them (if there’s no risk of rain where you are), or storing them safely somewhere cool and dry.

The average healthy and mature almond tree can produce a tree-mendous 50 to 65 pounds (23 to 30 kilograms) of nuts.

Pests and Diseases

Almonds, as I’ve already mentioned, are sensitive souls. They therefore may suffer from a number of afflictions.

They are particularly susceptible to soil-borne diseases, such as the fungal disease Verticillium wilt. This causes all kinds of drama for growers around the world every year, and enormous economic damage for commercial growers.

Verticillium wilt can be avoided by using a grafted specimen with a hardy root stock of peach or bitter almond. It’s also important not to over irrigate, which encourages the kind of conditions that verticillium thrives in. Soaker hoses are your best bet.

Fungal infections can also cause hull rot and there are mitigation techniques for this condition.

Apart from that, these trees often suffer from the bacterial disease known as crown gall. This usually gets into the tree via cuts, so care should be taken not to damage the tree. If pruning, always cut branches with clean, disinfected equipment.

Almonds may also have issues with mites, such as the brown mite and the red European mite, which stress the tree out and cause damage to its leaves.

If using an IPM program in your garden, these mites are best controlled with an oil spray during the trees’ dormant period, or through introducing natural predators such as the Western predatory mite.

There are also some pesticides which are effective against mites, including some pyrethroids.

Have you ever dreamed of growing a pack of pitcher plants, a settlement of sundews, or a colony of Venus flytraps? 

Well, don’t let your dreams just be dreams. Turn ’em into reality with a hearty dose of carnivorous plant knowledge, on the house.

We link to vendors to help you find relevant products. If you buy from one of our links, we may earn a commission.

With this guide, you’ll learn the basics of caring for this unique type of flora, and gain the necessary know-how to put it into practice.

Here’s a preview of what’s ahead:

Hopefully, you’ll have gained an even greater respect and appreciation for predatory plants by the time you reach the end of this guide. Let’s get into it!

What Are Carnivorous Plants?

A carnivorous plant is one that’s adapted to catch and digest animals via mechanisms such as snap traps, adhesive traps, and pitfalls that make up part of its anatomy.

Most of the time, the animals caught are invertebrates like insects, arachnids, and small crustaceans. But some large species consume vertebrates such as amphibians, lizards, rodents, and birds.

Despite their meaty diets, every carnivorous plant is photosynthetic and doesn’t actually consume animals for caloric energy. This carnivory actually evolved as a way of surviving in the harsh, nutrient-poor soils that these organisms call home.

The creatures they catch are high in nutrients such as nitrogen, phosphorus, and sulfur, which are used to supplement the little nutrition that the roots get from the soil.

Cultivation and History

The only trait that all carnivorous plants universally share is their meat-eating tendencies.

Botanical carnivory has independently evolved six or so times throughout evolutionary history across many different orders and families. There are more than 800 known botanically-carnivorous species out there… talk about diversity!

At multiple points in the past, some plants found themselves in tough environments and needed nutrients that weren’t available in the soil.

A few developed mutations that let them acquire these nutrients from animals. Organisms with these genetic anomalies thrived, reproduced, and presto: we’ve got flesh-eating flora today.

Typically, carnivorous plants are found in bogs, swamps, thinly-soiled areas of the tropics such as beaches, and nutritionally-void bodies of water. These habitats are worldwide, and oftentimes in unexpected places.

Take the Venus flytrap, for example: perhaps you’d think it might be found in exotic jungles or deep within rainforests, but it’s actually native to the wetlands of North and South Carolina!

Until the 19th century, most folks couldn’t fathom that anything leafy and green could consume animals.

This changed when Charles Darwin published “Insectivorous Plants,” a book covering 16 years of research. This enlightened many people, and carnivorous flora leached into horror stories as man-eating monsters.

This still has sway in modern day pop culture. From the 1986 film “Little Shop of Horrors” to the Piranha Plants that made their first appearance in “Super Mario Bros.,” flesh-eating clumps of greenery are still as scary as ever.

Today, carnivorous plants are grown in botanical gardens and greenhouses worldwide.

Hobby houseplant gardeners grow them for the challenge, and to witness the plant’s undeniable awesomeness. Plus, feeding them with that fly that’s been buzzing around your house all afternoon is a very satisfying form of revenge.

Propagation

Carnivorous plants can be started from seed, vegetatively propagated, divided, or transplanted.

Since this is a general growing guide, these recommendations are a bit cookie-cutter.

Specific research on the species that you’re growing will be required before you start. However, these tips will be a great starting point.

From Seed

You’ll want to prepare a 50-50 mixture of sphagnum peat moss and perlite in three-inch pots or a seed starting tray. Sprinkle the seeds on the surface of the medium, don’t bury them. Start your seeds under LED lighting… six to 10 inches under, to be specific.

Keep the pots or tray sitting in water, and keep the medium moist by lightly misting the surface with water that’s free of minerals and salts. Distilled or deionized water sources would be ideal.

Keep your pots covered with plastic, to prevent fungus gnat larvae from consuming the seeds.

The seeds can take anywhere from three weeks to nine months for germination to occur, so exercising patience is key.

Heads up, though: some seeds may require cold stratification in the refrigerator for four to eight weeks, depending on the species.

Vegetative Propagation

You can propagate most carnivorous plants via leaf cuttings, either in water or in a 50-50 mix of peat moss and perlite.

Take leaf cuttings from the outer edges of your adult carnivorous specimens, ideally when it is putting on new growth.

Submerge them in a container filled with sterilized water. The container you choose will depend on the shape of the leaf: you can’t go wrong with capped jars, but sealed test tubes can also work for skinny, tendril-looking leaves.

Keep the containers under a light source like you would with seeds. Change out the water if and when it starts to get cloudy, and remove any cuttings that become browned or moldy.

Move the cuttings into a suitable growing medium once they develop roots. This process may take up to a few months.

By Division

The best time to divide your plants is in spring, just as new growth is starting to emerge.

Work in a place that you can get dirty, such as a patio deck or a floor covered with tarp or newsprint. Take the dividee out of its container and gently tease it apart into the desired number of divisions.

By doing it this way instead of aggressively with a blade, you’ll get the healthiest divisions possible.

Remove any dead or dying leaves. Snip off the ends of the rhizomes on the outer edges of the division – if applicable – to stimulate new growth. You can even give the foliage a modest haircut to kickstart new foliar growth, too.

 Place these newly divided specimens in their new pots, and presto, you’ve got divisions!

Transplanting

Prepare a pot with equal quantities of sphagnum peat moss and sand. Saturate the mix with sterilized water. Lightly pat it all down without compacting the medium.

Dig a hole in your prepped pot about the size of your transplant’s current pot. Gently tease out the transplant with your fingers or with gravity. Place it in the hole you made, fill it up, and water it all in.

How to Grow

To grow a carnivorous plant indoors, it’s best to replicate the conditions of its natural habitat.

The environments that spurred carnivory in flora are fairly similar worldwide, so the following general tips should work for the majority of carnivorous species.

However, don’t be afraid to deviate from them in order to fit the needs of the specific species you’re trying to grow.

Some varieties may also respond well to growing outdoors in certain locales. We’ll cover that in more detail in separate guides.

Climate Needs

Most species require highly humid conditions, so your best bet is to use a terrarium. Cover the top with plexiglass to keep humidity high, and leave it ajar a bit as needed to provide necessary ventilation.

Standard containers such as pots work too, but you’ll have to keep the air around them very humid. Put them near kitchens and bathrooms, and/or set them on a bed of pebbles partially submerged in a water-filled tray.

Temperature needs are unique to each species, so you’ll want to check exactly what your specimen requires. A good starting point, however, would be to aim for temps of 70 to 75°F during the summer and wintertime temps of 55 to 60°F.

Exposure Needs

Direct light is the key to success with most species.

When grown indoors, this means placing specimens right next to south-facing windows in the Northern Hemisphere, or north-facing windows in the Southern Hemisphere. Make sure they soak up those rays for an hour or two, at least.

You can also use LED lights, if you’re lacking in the brightly-lit-windows department. A color range of 5000 to 5500k and a Lumen intensity of 5000 should work just fine.

Put the lights about six inches above the carnivorous species you’re trying to grow, with enough LED fixtures to cover them all.

Yescom LED Grow Lights

Yescom offers an ultrathin LED panel on Amazon.

Soil Needs

Typical, nutrient-dense garden soil won’t fly with these bad boys, since they like their soils lean and with an acidic pH.

If you use the proper ingredients, then acidity takes care of itself. A mixture of two parts sphagnum peat moss to one part sand will do the trick.

An exception to this prescription would be for growing Nepenthes, or tropical pitcher plants. These guys need something a bit faster-draining, like an even mixture of sphagnum peat moss and a more coarse, porous ingredient like perlite or vermiculite.

Watering

Most species prefer wet soil in the warmer months and moist soil in the colder ones.

It’s important not to use tap or mineral-heavy water – these plants are so used to acidic, barren conditions that such water sources will stress them. Distilled water, snow melted to room temperature, or collected rainwater are your best choices.

Feeding

Taking your specimens outside in the summertime will allow them to feast as Mother Nature intended.

However, if this triggers “empty nest syndrome” for the clingy plant parents among us, then you can feed them indoors with an insect every week or two until their dormancy period begins. Don’t feed them more than this dosage…one bug a week, maximum.

Good food choices include flies and crickets, as well as non-insects such as slugs, spiders, and worms. Living food is ideal, so either break out the bug net in your yard or your wallet at the pet store.

Fertilizing

If feeding creepy-crawlies to a predatory plant turns your stomach, then there is a workaround.

A quarter-strength solution of organic fertilizer, applied once or twice a month during the growing season, is often an acceptable substitute.

However, this is less healthy than just giving these organisms what they’d consume in nature – it’s comparable to making your dog go vegan. If you feed your carnivorous houseplants insects, then supplemental fertilizer isn’t required.

Growing Tips

• Direct, bright lighting is pretty much standard for this class of flora.
• Be sure to keep the microclimate around your specimens highly humid.
• Use only distilled or naturally-occurring water sources when irrigating.

Pruning and Maintenance

Most carnivorous plants are herbaceous, so the only pruning you’ll have to do is to snip off dead, blackened leaves and other structures to encourage new growth.

Repotting (re-terrarium-ing?) should take place whenever your plantings fill or outgrow their containers. Given the overall trend of slow growth rates, this shouldn’t happen all that often.

Notable Specimens

There is a gargantuan amount of flora that consumes animals. However, some simply rise above the rest in attractiveness, popularity, and just how flat-out cool they are.

Butterwort

Named after its greasy, buttery leaves, butterwort (Pinguicula spp.) catches its prey in a sticky mucilage produced on the leaf surfaces.

Once the unfortunate insect lands, the leaves curl up in a cup shape, further trapping it. The insect is then digested externally.

With strikingly colorful flower petals, long stems, and lime-green deathtrap leaves, butterwort is a dangerous beauty.

Find tips on butterwort care here.

Pitcher Plant

Forming a pitfall trap in its pitcher-shaped leaves, the pitcher plant attracts its prey with a line of glands that secrete appetizing nectar.

This trail of deliciousness leads each insect down into the smooth throat of the pitcher, resulting in the bug slipping and falling into a digestive-enzyme-filled pool of death.

Contrary to popular belief, the lids do not snap shut upon catching prey.

But some species such as N. gracillis actually use the impact of falling rain to catapult insects from their slick lid undersides into their digestive pools, which technically counts as closing… at least for a moment.

Species commonly known as pitcher plants are those in the Nepenthes, Sarracenia, Heliamphora, and Darlingtonia genera.

These specimens vary in scale, ranging from thimble-sized to something resembling that of a milk gallon jug. Regardless of how big they are, they’re truly a sight to see.

Nepenthes Pitcher Plant

If the pitcher plant has tickled your fancy, Nepenthes pitcher plants in six-inch baskets are available from JM Bamboo via Amazon.

Get more tips on pitcher plant care here.

Sundew

Sundews (Drosera spp.) have tall, upright leaves tipped with sticky-glanded “tentacles.”

They produce nectar to attract and adhesives to trap insects. Once it catches its prey, the tentacled leaf coils around the insect, effectively smothering it in a brutal finishing move.

The colorful glistening droplets produced by the tentacles give this species a deadly elegance.

Want a sundew for yourself?

Sundew

Joel’s Carnivorous Plants sells a spoon leaf sundew in a three-inch pot, available from Amazon.

Read more about growing sundew plants here.

Venus Flytrap

Arguably the poster child of the carnivorous plant world, the Venus flytrap (Dionaea muscipula) traps flies with pairs of hinged leaves that bear spines along the margins.

When flies land on the open leaves and put pressure on one or more of the flytrap’s sensitive hairs, the leaves snap shut and begin to secrete digesting sap. After a 10-day digestion period, the trap opens and is ready to trap again.

If you wish to impress with the wildness of your garden, the Venus flytrap won’t let you down.

Venus Flytrap

Predatory Plants has Venus flytrap specimens available in three-inch pots on Amazon, if you’re interested.

Find more tips on growing Venus flytraps here.

Managing Pests and Disease

Here are some of the issues you can run into while trying to keep your lil’ carnivorous pets healthy.

Fungus Gnat Larvae

Adult fungus gnats usually aren’t a problem for carnivorous flora. But their larval offspring are another story. These pests are an average length of less than five millimeters, with brown-stained translucent bodies and a black head capsule.

They are especially harmful for your carnivorous juveniles, and if they are present in the soil, they often consume seeds before germination.

They can even damage the root tissues, too, which leaves those roots vulnerable to pathogenic fungi in the soil. You don’t want these guys living in your carnivorous houseplants.

The product Gnatrol™ – which is essentially the spores of Bacillus thuringiensis subsp. israelensis bacteria – can be used to drench the soil.

But since larvicides are very expensive and potentially harmful to carnivorous houseplants, you’re best off controlling the conditions which lead to the infestation of these creatures.

A five millimeter layer of medium to coarse horticultural sand on top of the soil should discourage egg-laying.

You can read more about fungus gnat control in our guide.

Mealybugs

Segmented and covered in a cottony wax, mealybugs love to hang out in the crevices where leaves and stems meet. They suck the sap out of flora and leave white, cottony puffs behind in their wake.

Their origins are oftentimes contaminated houseplants from vendors and friends – another reminder to always quarantine your new botanical purchases prior to integration with the rest of your houseplant collection.

Pesticides aren’t ideal for use against these pests, unless “twice-a-week applications forever” is a life sentence you’re okay with.

You’re better off applying 70 percent alcohol, mixed with a few drops of dish soap, via cotton swabs to the surface of your carnivorous houseplants every week, which desiccates mealybugs.

In addition, getting rid of plant detritus is essential as this can serve as mealybug breeding grounds. Mealybugs can also have a symbiotic relationship with ants that are attracted to the honeydew, so make sure to keep ants away, as well.

Learn more about how to deal with mealybugs in our guide.

Sarracenia Rhizome Rot

A common affliction for the trumpet pitchers of the Sarracenia genus, Sarracenia rhizome rot is caused by fungi in the Rhizoctonia and Fusarium genera. Infection results in rotten, mushy rhizomes that can eventually kill your plant.

It can occur as a result of frost damage prior to dormancy, when you over-fertilize, or irrigate your carnivorous houseplants with unsterilized water.

This burns roots, providing an entry point for pathogens. These pathogens end up in the phloem, which’ll lead to eventual wilting.

Prevention strategies include the initial quarantining of new specimens and the reactionary quarantining of infected ones, along with regular detritus cleanup.

Proper irrigation and not overfertilizing also go without saying. If infection does end up occurring, dispose of the afflicted specimen.

Best Uses

Carnivorous plants make for great companion plantings alongside many of the standard houseplants in your home.

While the latter exude peace and tranquility, the former give off a sense of intensity and savagery. Together, this results in a yin-yang effect that neither can pull off alone.

They are also very, very intriguing for botanical pros and newbies alike.

The specialized knowledge required to care for them poses a unique challenge for houseplant enthusiasts. Plus, having a Venus flytrap is a very utilitarian way to dispose of flies you were gonna swat anyway, so there’s that.

A Botanical Carnivore? You Couldn’t Ask for More!

It’s official: carnivorous plants are the coolest thing to happen to interior clumps of vegetation since the Monstera!

Feel free to cite or quote me on that.

The world of botanical carnivores is an exciting one, so have fun experimenting and exploring!

Have any experiences, questions, or comments of your own to share? Drop me a line in the comments section, and I’ll be sure to read and respond!

If learning about carnivorous plants provided some tasty food for thought and made you feel hungry for more, then make it four-course meal and read these articles next:

Raw, this large purple vegetable doesn’t look anything like an egg. When cooked, it doesn’t taste or look egg-like either.

So how did the word “egg” become attached to an aubergine, etymologically speaking?

Here’s how: In England in the 1700s a new vegetable made an appearance on the culinary scene. This vegetable was white, small, and shaped just like an egg.

It didn’t take much imagination to decide what to call this new vegetable: eggplant. The name endured, and encompasses the purple varieties, too.

There are still many cultivars of the white eggplant around today. Some are old heirloom varieties, while others are more recently cultivated hybrids.

And the fruits of these varieties come in all sorts of shapes and sizes – small and round, long and thin, or plump and oval.

I’m going to take you on a tour of nine cultivars that span all shapes and sizes, providing for a wide array of culinary uses. See our full guide if you are new to growing eggplant in your garden.

Here’s what I’ll cover:

White vs. Purple

Compared to purple varieties, many of the white cultivars have thinner skin, which is why they aren’t usually seen in supermarkets.

Thin skins mean they bruise more easily during transport, resulting in less-than-perfect-looking produce at the store.

When you’re growing your own produce in your backyard, however, you don’t have to worry about transporting your crop nearly as far, so thinner skins might not be an issue for you at all.

And by the way, thin skin also comes with an advantage:

According to Dr. Leonard Perry, Extension Professor at the University of Vermont, along with their seeds, much of the bitterness associated with eating these vegetables comes from compounds contained in the skin.

Less skin equals less bitterness, so if the bitter flavor of purple eggplant has gotten in the way of your appreciation for this vegetable before, maybe it’s time to give it a second chance.

Some of these albino-looking varieties have much a sweeter taste than the purple ones, opening up possibilities for new and unexpected flavor experiences. Sounds like reason enough to give them a try to me!

9 of the Best White Eggplant Varieties for Your Garden

Ready for your tour through the world of unpigmented eggplant? Let’s go! Here are nine of my favorite white eggplant varieties to grow in your garden.

1. Casper

‘Casper’ is a French heirloom cultivar that is quite unique among eggplants.

Unlike most heat-loving varieties of this vegetable, ‘Casper’ actually thrives in the cooler days of the growing season, slowing down its production in the hottest part of the summer.

However, it is still frost sensitive, so don’t go planting it with your cool season crops.

The ivory-colored fruit ripen early, reaching maturity in approximately 70 days.

This is good news for those of us with short summers who don’t always have enough time to bring those varieties that take longer to mature all the way to harvest.

On the other hand, gardeners in areas with long, hot summers would do well to pick a different variety.

With thin skin that bruises easily, you’ll want to use the fruits quickly once they are ripe.

‘Clara’ eggplant have a mild taste with nutty undertones, and a meaty, creamy texture.

3. Ghostbuster

As you may have noticed with ‘Caspar,’ references to ghosts abound among pale vegetable varieties. ‘Ghostbuster’ is another such example.

This hybrid offers a mid-season harvest, maturing in 72-80 days.

‘Ghostbuster’ plants can become quite large.

With their semi-spreading growth habit, it’s not unusual for plants to grow to five feet tall with a four-foot spread at maturity.

The fruits of ‘Ghostbuster’ are oval shaped, measuring up to six to seven inches long and four inches wide.

They retain a sweet flavor until overly ripe, at which point they turn yellow and develop a bitter taste – so make sure you pick them before they turn yellow.

4. Gretel

With a name alluding to a beloved childhood fairy tale, ‘Gretel’ fittingly produces clusters of small, pure ivory-colored eggplant.

The fruits of this variety are shaped like large eggs, about two to three inches long, and at their peak they are rich and creamy tasting.

However, they will develop a bitter taste when they turn yellow, so make sure you harvest them before they start to change color.

6. Paloma

‘Paloma’ is another hybrid that is perfect for short-season growers. Plants are vigorous and highly productive, reaching maturity in just 65 days.

What’s different about ‘Paloma’ are the bell-shaped, lightly ribbed eggplant it bears.

These thin-skinned fruits, reaching a squat four and a half inches long by three and a half inches wide, have a mildly sweet and creamy taste.

The fact that these two nightshade members of the Solanaceae family are related is easy to see when you look at fruits from this cultivar.

‘Thai White Ribbed’ produces its fruit on two- to three-feet-tall plants and takes up to 90 days to mature, so it is more suited to areas with a long growing season.

This variety bears eggplant with a flattened round shape with deep ribbing – looking uncannily like albino heirloom slicing tomatoes.

The three- to four-inch fruits have a mild flavor, and a smooth and creamy texture.

9. White Comet

Shaped like shooting stars, ‘White Comet’ is a Japanese type that has very few seeds, and is totally without any bitter flavor.

These hybrid plants reach two to three feet tall and mature in 70 days.

This variety produces elongated, ivory fruit that reach an astronomical 10 inches long and two inches wide.

‘White Comet’ bears fruits that are thin-skinned, sweet, and meaty.

Without further ado, let’s get into what Cleome is all about, and what you can do with it in your landscape.

You won’t need much to get Cleome hassleriana started in your garden, except for the seeds or plants themselves and a sunny location for them to take off.

Let’s get right to it so you can get started right away.

What Is Cleome?

Cleome, sometimes called spider flower, spider plant (not to be confused with Chlorophytum comosum), or grandfather’s whiskers, will typically reach a height of up to five feet, though dwarf cultivars exist.

It is grown as an annual in most US growing zones, though it is perennial in USDA Hardiness Zones 10 and 11.

It’s a relatively unique plant because of how it flowers, and the length of time it will stay in bloom – from early summer up until first frost.

The flowers grow in open racemes, with loose, wispy clusters of small blooms at the end of each stem. The long stamens give it a “spidery” appearance.

Mature stems have a nasty thorn at the base of each of the green leaves. After blooming, the dried flower heads attract birds and provide texture in the fall garden.

Cleome can often be confused with a similar-looking plant known as clammy weed (Polanisia dodecandra).

The clearest way to tell the difference between the two is by their seed pods. Cleome has seed pods that stick straight out or hang down, while the seed pods are oriented upwards in clammy weed.

Clammy weed is a native to North America, while Cleome is native to South America.

Cleome will readily grow in conditions with lots of light and well-drained soil.

I’ve developed a habit of planting full sun flowers in part sun conditions to see how they respond, and have had plenty of good luck… except with C. hassleriana.

This plant really does thrive – and produces the most abundant blooms – with as much sun as you can throw at it.

While it will tolerate heavy soils, it is happiest in lighter soil conditions. The key ingredient here is that the soil should be organically rich.

Cleome requires a bare minimum of fertilization. You could get away with simply adding compost to the growing bed each year and being done with it.

I do not recommend using any fast-acting fertilizers as this can cause “leggy” growth.

It’s tolerant of drought conditions, more so than many other annuals. Heck, it doesn’t even need to be staked despite its impressive height, because it has a deep and strong taproot and sturdy stems.

As long as you’ve got the sunny conditions and well-drained soil required for it to flourish, C. hassleriana will be happy to do its thing with minimal effort on your part.

Cultivation and History

Originating from South America, C. hassleriana is usually grown as an annual, and it readily self-seeds.

Although it was first introduced to the US in the early 1800s, it didn’t reach its height of popularity until the Victorian era, when it became a common resident of greenhouses and cottage gardens.

As time moved on, Cleome lost its fame. But it has enjoyed a recent resurgence of popularity. It’s a plant I rarely saw in gardens and professional landscaping, until recently.

My personal history with C. hassleriana is a bit embarrassing.

It’s no secret that the leaves of the plant look startlingly similar to marijuana, and when I was directed by my foreman to cut back all herbaceous material for a fall cleanup, I was a little shocked to find a patch of Cleome in the garden.

The foreman saw my look of confusion, and made sure I knew this was simply an ornamental annual plant.

I know I’m not alone in having my neighbors look at my C. hassleriana that’s planted in the front yard with their eyebrows raised.

“Is that guy really growing that in his front yard? How brazen!” their faces scream.

Sharing the true nature of this plant with curious people is always a fun conversation, and then we can all enjoy the funny double-takes that others have when they pass by my garden.

How to Sow

Getting C. hassleriana to germinate the first time is an easy task, allowing them to self-seed is even easier, and having those plants self-seed to produce yet more plants is easier still.

From Seed

The only conditions required for starting C. hassleriana from seed are the right amount of light and adequate soil conditions, as well as the correct timing – when you’re beyond any danger of frost.

Prepare your planting location by digging the soil to loosen it, mix in some compost if you wish, and rake it smooth.

Sow the seeds directly on the surface and cover with a light layer of soil, no more than 1/4 inch deep, as they need light to germinate.

Keep the soil moist but not wet. I’ll check the seeded area daily and give it a drink only if it’s starting to dry up.

Seeds germinate quickly, in about a week. Thin them out so you’ve got a few inches between each plant; six to eight inches works best to give the plants room to spread.

Alternatively, you can start the seeds indoors six weeks before the last frost date.

If you don’t have a sunny enough location for your seedlings to get started indoors, you might want to start your seeds inside eight weeks before the last frost date, or use a grow light.

These seeds require fluctuating temperatures in order to germinate, with daytime temperatures of 75-85°F and nighttime temperatures about 10 degrees lower.

Transplant the seedlings to your desired location when they are two to four inches tall and all danger of frost has passed.

Before planting, harden off your seedlings by placing them outdoors for an hour or so each day, gradually increasing the amount of time over the course of a week.

To plant out, dig a hole as deep and wide as the root balls and gently place the seedlings into the ground, spacing them six to eight inches apart. Tamp down the soil, and water in well.

On Self-Seeding

Cleome readily self-seeds. In some of the estate gardens where I planted it three years ago, new seedlings come up every year and eliminate the need to replant or reseed. It’s a nice freebie, as far as I’m concerned.

But if you’re growing your flowers in tight conditions or like to keep your garden as tidy as you can, I’d recommend removing the seed pods immediately after the flowers individually finish blooming.

I’ve never had Cleome get out of control on me, but in the right conditions, it’s possible. Alternatively, you can select sterile hybrid cultivars and eliminate any danger of self-seeding.

How to Grow

Regular readers know that my favorite plants are the ones that I don’t need to smother with attention, and Cleome is on my list. As mentioned, it requires a full sun location with organically rich, well-draining soil.

Outside of watering young plants regularly until they are established and removing seed heads if the gardener is so inclined, this plant has almost zero need for attention.

It doesn’t need to be staked, deadheads itself, and requires little, if any, fertilization.

Growing Tips

• Cleome tolerates drought, but is happiest with an occasional drink of water if the weather is dry for an extended period of time.
• Plants do not require staking at any point in their lifespan.
• Ensure plants are located in a spot where they’re going to get at least six hours of sunlight per day with good drainage.
• No specific fertilization requirements, except to avoid fast-acting fertilizers.
• Watch out for small but sharp thorns found along the stems on most varieties.

Maintenance

The only major maintenance required is yanking this plant out of the ground when it dies at the end of the season.

If you like a tidy garden, you can remove the plants in late fall or early winter.

However, I like to leave some winter interest in my gardens, and I tend to leave Cleome standing until spring cleanup time.

You’ll see why the plant has the nickname “spider flower” on a winter day when the flowers are long gone, leaving only spindly growths that look a lot like an arachnid’s long legs.

Remember, Cleome can have some irritating thorns in a few spots along the stem, so be mindful of where you’re grabbing and put on gardening gloves for extra protection.

Best Uses

Plant your C. hassleriana in the borders of your garden for the best effect.

I worked on a property that had a tiered boxwood border with short 18-inch boxwoods, behind which was low-growing Sarcococca (about eight inches tall), and massive boxwood behind that, which was at least five feet tall.

It would have been a boring planting, except for the seasonal flowers that we also planted in the Sarcococca bed:

White tulips for blooms in the springtime, and Cleome for added interest throughout the entire summer season.

These flowers offered a perfect accent that tied the entire planting together – without stealing the show.

If you have room for it, a mass planting of Cleome is something else. You can let the plants freely go to seed each year, and they’ll pop right back up the following spring.

I put C. hassleriana in my front garden to add random spikes of simple flowers that add some interest and variety to complement the rest of my mix of plants.

In my opinion, these annuals work best as either a full border accent or as little exclamation marks in the garden, planted randomly to show off a bit without becoming a gaudy main attraction.

Quick Reference Growing Guide

Plant Type:	Flowering annual (Zones 2-11), perennial in Zones 10-11	Flower / Foliage Color:	Pink, purple, white/green
Native to:	South America	Tolerance:	Drought
Hardiness (USDA Zone):	2-11	Soil Type:	Organically-rich
Bloom Time / Season:	Summer	Soil pH:	6.0-7.0 (ideal), tolerates most pH
Exposure:	Full sun	Soil Drainage:	Well-draining
Spacing:	6 inches	Attracts:	Bees, butterflies, hummingbirds
Planting Depth:	Surface sow (seeds), depth of root ball (transplants)	Uses:	Border, mixed planting, cut flowers
Height:	1-5 feet	Order:	Ranunculales
Spread:	6-8 inches	Family:	Cleomaceae
Water Needs:	Moderate	Genus:	Cleome
Maintenance:	Low	Species:	hassleriana
Common Pests:	Aphids, cabbage moths, spider mites, white flies	Common Disease:	Powdery mildew, rust