Category: Home & Garden

If you love to create a cut flower display in your home, this hybrid is one to have around.

‘Galaxy’ was bred at the US National Arboretum in 1963 using M. liliiflora ‘Nigra’ x M. sprengeri ‘Diva’ to combine the best of both with a dense, pyramidal tree form that blooms late enough to dodge most late frosts.

And it’s a good thing, because you wouldn’t want to miss out on these flowers! They can be up to a foot across, and they have 12 petals, so they’re incredibly striking.

‘Galaxy’

Add ‘Galaxy’ to your garden universe by heading to Nature Hills Nursery to pick up a four- to five-foot tree in a #3 container for your Zone 5 to 9 garden.

11. Genie

Don’t keep this genie in a bottle. ‘Genie’ is a beautiful hybrid in a small package.

The tree tops out around 10 feet tall, dressed up in a robe of deep burgundy, cup-shaped flowers growing at the end of the bare branches. And the blossoms are anything but small, at up to seven inches across.

That’s not the end of the show, though. This is a reliable rebloomer in Zones 5 to 9 that will put up another display in the summer.

Created by breeder Vance Hooper in New Zealand using M. x ‘Black Tulip’ and M. liliiflora ‘Nigra,’ it blooms later in the spring than many other types, so you can escape most of those sneaky late frosts.

Use it in containers or to make a small hedge.

‘Genie’

Nature Hills Nursery carries this petite stand-out.

12. Lily

The lily magnolia (M. liliiflora) is native to China and grows as a large shrub or small tree with a symmetrical shape.

It blooms before the leaves emerge with pink, purple, and white goblet-shaped blossoms with seven tepals and a heavenly citrus scent.

The plant can grow up to 12 by 12 feet in height and spread but it usually stays smaller, so it’s ideal for containers.

It’s not common in North America, but this species is wildly popular in China and Japan. It does well in Zones 5 to 8.

13. Loebner

What do you get when you cross floriferous M. kobus and the star-like blossoms of M. stellata? The lovely Loebner magnolia (M. x loebneri).

It’s a mini tree or large shrub with petite blossoms, but the impact is anything but small.

The six-inch, pink, purple, and white flowers have 15 narrow tepals, and the trees are positively covered in them. They’re also intensely fragrant. These plants are hardy in Zones 5 to 9.

There are lots of exceptional cultivars, including ‘Merrill,’ which was bred by Karl Sax, the third director of Arnold Arboretum at Harvard University from 1946 to 1954.

It’s a fast grower that reaches up to 25 feet or so with pure white flowers that have wider tepals than the species.

‘Merrill’

Nature Hills Nursery has you covered if ‘Merrill’ sounds like a winner to you. They have three- to four-foot live plants in #3 containers.

‘Leonard Messel’

‘Leonard Messel’ is another option, with bicolored rosy-purple and white flowers. It’s robust and frost resistant. Snag one in a #3 container from Nature Hills Nursery.

14. Jane

‘Jane’ is an incredibly popular hybrid cultivar that’s vigorous and hardy. It will bloom even when it’s colder than what other magnolias can tolerate, growing in Zones 4 to 8. It can also withstand heat.

In the spring, you’ll be treated to purple-red and white blossoms on plants that stay a petite 15 feet or smaller.

‘Jane’ is a cross between M. liliiflora ‘Reflorescens’ and M. stellata ‘Waterlily,’ another member of the Little Girl series bred at the National Arboretum.

‘Jane’

Sound like what you’re looking for? Fast Growing Trees has one- to two-, two- to three-, or three- to four-foot-tall live trees.

15. Kobus

Kobus magnolia (M. kobus) is a large shrub or small tree with multiple stems that is native to Japan.

These typically have smaller flowers than some other species, but they produce a ton of them.

The trees look like they’re covered in snow when they’re in bloom. Even when they aren’t blooming, the dark green leaves are extremely attractive.

These plants are slower growers than some other species, which means they aren’t as prone to breakage. They’re happy in Zones 5 to 8.

16. Saucer

A cross between M. denudata and M. liliflora, saucer magnolias (M. x soulangeana) are highly sought after hybrids with many popular cultivars.

They typically have massive, plate-sized blossoms in a broad spectrum of white, pink, and purple hues.

They’re also fairly cold hardy, good to go in Zones 4 to 8.

If you want to plant the original in your garden, it’s a gorgeous 25-foot shrub or tree that blooms extremely early in the year.

No wonder it’s so popular in warmer areas! It’s also a fast grower, so you don’t have to wait long for the display.

Saucer

Bring one home from Fast Growing Trees.

‘Alexandrina’ (not Alexandria) was introduced in 1831 by Cels of Paris, and it has been a popular saucer option ever since.

The outside of the flowers is white with a contrasting purple-magenta inside, with the darkest coloring at the base of the petals.

There is a pure-white form of this plant as well, ‘Alexandrina Alba,’ but it’s far less common. Even less common is a form with variegated leaves known as ‘Alexandrina Variegata.’

‘Alexandrina’

Make ‘Alexandrina’ yours and bring her home from Nature Hills Nursery.

‘Black Tulip’ is another exceptional option. The six-inch blossoms are a deep reddish-purple that looks different from most other magnolias.

‘Black Tulip’

Bare root plants are available from Burpee.

17. Sargentiana

I think M. sargentiana is an unsung wonder of the magnolia world.

These can be downright majestic, completely covered in so many blossoms that you might think the tree just has pink or white leaves for a few weeks out of the year.

Sure, the flowers can’t compete in terms of size with some others, but that doesn’t make them any less striking.

Sadly, this species is not quite as versatile as some of the other options. It needs to be planted in Zones 6 to 9, but gardeners in those regions are in luck.

‘Caerhays Belle’ is an attractive hybrid cross of M. sargentiana and M. sprengeri. It is absolutely covered in salmon pink flowers in the spring.

I prefer to stick to native options, but I’ll make an exception for this Chinese native.

The species can occasionally skip or have a very reduced year in terms of flowering, so you should look for the excellent cultivars and hybrids like ‘Caerhays Belle’ that don’t need to take an occasional break.

18. Southern

Here’s the classic. The one you see in all the iconic movies and TV shows based in the southern US.

Southern magnolias (M. grandiflora) are some of the most common in gardens in the US.

When you picture that large, flowering tree immortalized in southern literature and movies, this is the species they’re usually talking about.

These trees are native to the south, spanning as far north as Virginia and down into Florida, and from the Atlantic Coast to eastern Texas. They can grow up to 80 feet tall and half as wide, though they will stay smaller in cooler regions.

Most cultivars have large white or cream blossoms and they are evergreen. They’re capable of growing as far north as Zone 6, so don’t assume you have to live in a warm area to grow these plants.

‘Bracken’s Brown Beauty’ is a particularly lovely semi-evergreen cultivar with fragrant white flowers and dark green leaves with a rusty brown underside.

Roy Bracken discovered this beauty in 1968 in a nursery in South Carolina, and while the flowers are about half the size of other cultivars, it makes up for it in sheer volume.

The tree itself has a semi-columnar shape, reaching 50 feet tall and around 20 feet wide.

‘Bracken’s Brown Beauty’

Fast Growing Trees ships quickly, offers a one-year guarantee, and carries this option in two- to three- and three- to four-foot heights.

‘Little Gem’ is perfect for containers or more restricted spaces. Its only flaw, if you could call it that, is that it can’t grow north of Zone 7. Sorry Kansas and Ohio gardeners, but there are lots of other great options for you.

Bred by Steed’s Nursery in North Carolina in 1966, it has a columnar shape with dense, petite leaves and flowers that emerge and stick around later in the season than those of the species.

‘Edith Bogue’

Other good options include ‘Edith Bogue,’ with her large, lemony blossoms. She’s waiting for you to bring her home from Fast Growing Trees as well.

‘Kay Parris’

If you need something petite, ‘Kay Parris’ is a dwarf that usually stays under 20 feet tall. Nature Hills Nursery has this one available in a tree form in a #2 container.

For a nice cold-hardy option, ‘24 Below’ can survive in areas that get as cold as, you guessed it, -24°F.

19. Star

Star magnolias (M. stellata) are native to Japan and have fairly petite flowers, but they produce lots of them.

Kind of like looking at the night sky while lying on your back, staring up at these trees you’ll notice that the petals are long and narrow, giving each tepal the appearance of a shooting star bursting across the heavens in the spring.

This shrubby tree is sometimes labeled as a cultivar of Kobushi magnolia (M. kobus), but it’s a separate species. And it’s versatile enough to grow in Zones 4 to 9.

‘Royal Star’

‘Royal Star’ is particularly floriferous and heavily fragrant. Invite this superstar into your space by picking up a plant from Fast Growing Trees.

20. Sunspire

When it comes to magnolias with a columnar growth habit, there aren’t many to choose from.

‘Sunspire’ is a hybrid cross of M. ‘Woodsman’ and M. ‘Elizabeth’ that is just the ticket for anyone who wants a columnar option.

At under 25 feet tall and between six and 10 feet wide, it can fill in those narrow spots or stand tall as an anchor for your garden.

As you might have inferred from the name, the petals are sunny yellow, and the flowers have a tulip-like shape.

‘Sunspire’

Here comes the sun, little darlin’! Bring ‘Sunspire’ home from Nature Hills Nursery in a #2 container if you live in Zones 5 to 8.

21. Sweetbay

Sweetbays (M. virginiana) are a southern classic that can be identified by their dark green leaves with a silvery underside.

Most other magnolias either have the same green color on both sides of the leaves or the underside is a sort of rust color.

The lemon-scented flowers are about three inches across and pop out in late spring, lasting for several weeks.

The leaves are less leathery than those of the closely-related southern magnolia, and the flowers are slightly smaller. But don’t let that turn you away. Though they’re tiny, they make for a mighty display just in sheer number.

The pure white flowers tend to be deeply cupped, on trees that grow about 50 feet tall and half as wide. This species is hardier than M. grandiflora, thriving as far north as Zone 5.

Taste might be far from your mind when considering a magnolia to grow, but the tepals I’ve tried are some of the best.

They’re light, floral, and slightly citrusy, with a firm enough texture and a mild enough flavor to lend themselves well to a range of dishes. Plus, you get so many of them on each tree!

If you want a shade tree that provides beautiful blossoms and is tough enough to survive even in standing water, this is the answer.

Sweetbay Magnolia

Fast Growing Trees carries two- to three-, three- to four-, and four- to five-foot live trees if the glorious sweetbay sounds like the perfect thing for your garden.

22. Yellow Bird

Imagine a goldfinch perched on the edge of the branch of a tree. Now, imagine thousands of them on the same tree.

‘Yellow Bird’ is an M. acuminata cultivar with bright yellow, tulip-shaped blossoms that emerge later in spring, at the same time as the foliage rather than prior to the leaves.

The benefit of this timing is that the flowers are less likely to be exposed to late-season frosts.

But you might not know the leaves are even there when the tree is covered in those yellow avian flowers!

This is a vigorous grower that tops out at about 40 feet, and it does well in Zones 4 to 8.

‘Yellow Bird’

Give ‘Yellow Bird’ a home in your garden, no birdseed required, by picking up a six- to 10-inch tree at Amazon.

23. Yulan

Yulan magnolias (M. denudata) are also known as lily or tulip trees, and it’s completely obvious why.

The trees, which are considered to be some of the most beautiful of all magnolias, are covered in pure white tulip-shaped blossoms.

But these shouldn’t be confused with the light green and orange blooms of the tulip poplar (Liriodendron tulipifera), also commonly referred to as tulip tree.

At first glance, you would probably think that the tree has white foliage, that’s how many blossoms there are on the tree.

Even when it’s not in bloom, it has beautiful medium green leaves on an upright, symmetrical tree. It’s also versatile enough to grow in Zones 4 through 9.

It’s a Chinese native that can be a little challenging to find on the market, but there are lots of beloved hybrids bred from it, such as ‘Elizabeth,’ ‘Butterflies,’ and saucer magnolias, so watch for those.

So Many Magnolias, So Little Time

If I had acres and acres of land, I’d grow hundreds of magnolias. The moment the fuzzy little buds start emerging in late winter, I get a little thrill.

It’s only a few weeks until the striking blossoms are blanketing the trees. I can only imagine the joy of seeing hundreds of trees in bloom at once.

Alas, I’ll have to settle for just a few trees. But knowing about some of the best options out there makes it easier to pick, right?

Which one on this list are you considering? How will you use it in your garden? As a shade tree? A shrub next to your window to let the fragrance into your house? Let us know in the comments.

And if you need a refresher on how to grow magnolias, check out our guide.

Where one tree is good, more are better. If you want to grow some other excellent landscape trees, we have a few guides that can help you on your journey, including:

Today we’ll continue reviewing the 2022 reading list.

I’m going to just give you one-liners this time, or it’ll be 2024 before we get through!

If you want to buy any of these books on Amazon, go through this link and I’ll get a small commission.

The Complete Guide to Restoring Your Soil by Dale Strickler

5/5, great information. No-till focused, but lots of practical information and excellently laid out.

Soil Science for Gardeners by Robert Pavlis

4.5/5 I feel like Robert is trying not to slap down stupid people too hard. I also think he would not be fun at parties.

The Wheel of Health: The Sources of Long Life and Health Among the Hunza by Dr. G. T. Wrench

4.5/5 Fascinating anthropological study. Might even be true.

For the Love of the Soil by Nicole Masters

4.5/5 Nicole is somewhat solipsistic but knows her stuff. She also travels around by herself, with a horse.

The Decline and Fall of the Roman Empire (Book 5 of 8) by Edward Gibbon

5/5 Gibbon is top notch, as always.

Three Men in a Boat (To Say Nothing of the Dog) by Jerome K. Jerome

If I could give this 6/5, I would. Hilarious. My son read most of it out loud to us as we travelled in the car.

Metabolical by Dr. Robert Lustig

4/5 Intriguing information, with good arguments against the modern food system. It will encourage you to eat better and not be a ham planet. Unfortunately still follows mainstream narratives on vaccination.

Satyricon by Gaius Petronius

1/5 Absolute degenerate trash. Nero should have burned this guy as a torch before getting after the Christians.

Skin in the Game by Nassim Taleb

5/5, Taleb is brilliant. Systems work better when people pay for their mistakes and are rewarded for successes. Without either, you get bureaucracy and misery.

The History of Early Rome by Livy

5/5 Livy makes it obvious why turning to the Caesars happened, even if that wasn’t what he set out to write. Lots and lots of arguing over land and troop levies, as the Republic holds off its enemies.

Dissolving Illustions by Suzanne Humphries and Roman Bystrianyk

5/5 A fascinating look at the failure of modern medicine and the vaccination scams throughout history. Eye-opening. Your doctor will hate this book.

Goodbye, Things: The New Japanese Minimalism by Fumio Sasaki

4.5/5 Interesting perspective, even if impossible for a large family to pull off. Fumio argues that things are controlling us and we should let them go. Lots of truth, though he is also highly neurotic. He’s also Japanese. But I may be repeating myself.

Thanks for reading – have a great weekend.

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Let’s learn more about this incredible addition to your garden, and the benefits of growing a plant that does double duty as both an edible and an ornamental!

What Is Passionflower or Passion Fruit?

Passionflower is a semi-herbaceous, fruiting vine native to Latin America, but many varieties have been naturalized throughout other regions of the world.

In North America, for example, some varieties can be seen growing wild alongside woodland areas, in thickets, and from disturbed, fertile ground.

The majority of species in this genus grow best in regions where temperatures do not fall below 32°F.

However, even in areas where temperatures are lower, some varieties of this perennial will not die off entirely if temperatures remain above about 5°F, as the roots are very hardy and can be protected by mulching and covering.

Most successful cultivation occurs in regions where temperatures are between 60 and 90°F throughout the year, such as in USDA Hardiness Zones 9 to 11 in the southern United States.

Flowers and fruit grow simultaneously, with blooms from spring through late fall, and fruit produced from May through August, in most regions.

This vine offers a wide range of color variations in its blooms, from pale lavender and blue to flame red and orange, the latter of which can be seen in Passiflora ‘Sunburst.’

When growing a flowering ornamental, the aroma of its blossoms can be hit or miss, as some stunning plants have a truly horrendous, reeking odor.

Fortunately this is not the case with most types of passionflower, as blossoms generally produce an intoxicating, heady fragrance, such as the gardenia-like scent of the P. mooreana species.

Vines can reach up to 30 feet in length without pruning.

Even though the vines do not require pruning to produce flowers and fruit, they can quickly become overgrown in the home garden under ideal conditions.

They believed that parts of the blossoms represented accounts of biblical stories, such as the corona of filaments in the center of each bloom correlating to the crown of thorns worn during the crucifixion of Christ.

Native tribes in North and South America foraged and cultivated the plants for a multitude of uses.

Throughout many cultures, the blossoms, foliage, roots, and fruit are used in herbal medicine. Modern day uses also include flavoring food items, and adding fragrance to perfume and soaps.

When the fruit has ripened to deep yellow-orange, purple, or red and begun to crinkle on the exterior, the seeds will be ripe for planting.

To increase your chances of successful germination, rub the seeds against a mildly abrasive surface such as a paper towel, a piece of rough fabric, or a bit of screen to break open the membrane surrounding the seed.

Soak seeds in warm water overnight.

While they are soaking, prepare three-inch pots with a handful of compost or seed starting mix. Add one to two seeds to each, planted about one inch deep. Moisten, but do not drench the soil.

Seeds generally germinate within a few days to a week. Seeds that have been allowed to dry out may take longer to germinate, or they may not grow at all.

From Cuttings

Cuttings can take weeks to root. If you are propagating from cuttings, be sure that the parent plant is not grafted onto rootstock, as this can increase the likelihood of developing suckers as plants mature.

Cuttings taken from grafted stock may produce undesirable results such as poor plant health; stunted or abnormal growth; diminished or absent fruit production; or production of abnormal, inedible fruit.

Suckers appear as shoots that grow from the roots at ground level, and while they may seem useful for starting new vines, suckers are not productive and will not produce fruit, or they may produce fruit that is not edible.

Prepare a pot or tray with three parts builder’s sand to one part soil. Coarse industrial silica sand generally works best, as it allows for good drainage.

Cut new growth if possible, as older growth may be slower to root.

Choose a segment of about 6 inches in length and remove the lowest set of leaves. Dip the cut end in powdered rooting hormone if desired.

Push the stem into the rooting mixture and moisten. Continue to keep the potting medium moistened but not wet, as cuttings will draw moisture from humidity in the air until roots begin to develop.

Keep cuttings in a greenhouse or container – such as a clear plastic storage tote with a lid – to retain humidity and warmth. Once roots develop, follow the directions below for planting seedlings.

Passionflower vines do not like to be transplanted after their taproots have developed.

They develop a large root ball and will need adequate space to spread, so choose a spot where the roots will not be in competition with other plants or trees, and where there is a suitable space for climbing.

Bear in mind that this vine can reach up to 30 feet in length, so it definitely needs its own place in the garden.

Prepare a hole that is at least twice the width of the seedling and at least as deep as the pot the plant is growing in.

Remove the seedling from the pot, being careful not to touch or damage the roots. They’re extremely sensitive, and root damage can easily kill the vine.

Place the seedling into the hole, filling loosely until secure, and water to settle.

If transplanting an older, more established vine, be sure that the entire taproot and root ball has been extracted with the plant.

This can be tricky, since roots can run several feet deep in the ground.

Grafted specimens should not be transplanted, as this can trigger the production of suckers.

For mature vines, transplanting should take place in a cooler season before new growth has started, such as late winter or early spring.

Extract the plant from its location carefully, and be sure that the root ball and tap root are as intact as possible. Keep roots protected with a tarp until you’re ready to plant.

Prepare a hole that is several inches wider and deeper than the root ball. Replant and backfill with soil, tamping lightly, and water to settle.

Be sure to provide a trellis or other support, as this vine is not self-supporting.

As mentioned previously, mature plants do not always respond well to transplanting, and you may notice some wilting or die off of vegetation at first. Applying some aged manure, compost, or fertilizer may help to perk the plant up until the roots are reestablished.

Choose a location with full sun exposure and protection from overcrowding, such as along a fence or trellis, rather than near trees or other plants.

Be sure to watch for new vine growth, as runners can appear eight to 10 feet – or more – from the parent plant.

Soil at the planting site should be loose and deep, and adding composted organic material is a good idea, to encourage plant health from the beginning.

Passionflower prefers moist – but not wet – soil with good drainage. Offer approximately one inch of water per week, or as often as necessary to keep soil from drying out.

Managing Pests and Disease

Passionflower contains naturally occurring chemical substances called cyanogenic glycosides that prevent many insect pests from feasting, but the vine is still susceptible to disease.

Let’s take a look at some of the common maladies and afflictions that can befall this plant.

Herbivores

Few animals will disturb passionflower, however, those that do can cause quite a bit of damage.

Deer

Passion fruit is surrounded by a tough exterior that becomes shriveled and hard as it ripens.

This does not deter deer from munching on them from time to time, but planting in a protected area can prevent fruit from becoming dessert for Bambi.

To learn more, see our guide to protecting your garden from deer.

Rabbits

In the home garden, rabbits often treat themselves to a buffet at your expense, and it is no different in this case.

As with deer, the best preventative measure is to keep the plants in a protected area.

Insects

A variety of beneficial insects will visit blossoms throughout the growing season, which is a joy to behold. But there can be infestations of harmful pests as well.

Always consider the least environmentally damaging alternative when dealing with pests.

Aphids

These tiny, army-forming nuisances will devastate your garden, given the chance, so it is best to nip their residency in the bud as quickly as possible once they’re spotted.

Not only do they suck sap from vegetation, their indiscriminate consumption causes the spread of viral diseases between plants.

Find them under the flowers, gathered together in clusters, and along the stems.

Pay careful attention to your vines – if you see ants marching to and from your blooms, there may be aphids present as well, as the two have a mutually beneficial symbiotic relationship.

Ants farm aphids for “honeydew” (secreted droppings), and aphids depend upon ants for protection from predation.

An excellent, natural way to combat this problem is to introduce ladybugs or a native species of praying mantis to your garden.

A blast of water from the garden hose can knock aphids from their position, but because of the ample hiding places available with this vine, this method may not remove all insects and can cause damage to blossoms.

Otherwise, the least damaging method of removal is donning a pair of gloves and squishing the aphids as you find them.

Read more about dealing with aphids in the garden here.

Disease

Viral and fungal diseases can afflict the passionflower vine, and unfortunately, some may not be easy to treat.

It is important to note that any time diseased parts of a plant are removed, any tools used should be thoroughly disinfected afterward to prevent accidental spread.

Dispose of infected plant material in the trash rather than adding it to your compost or leaving it elsewhere in the garden, as disease can be spread through the soil as well.

Potyvirus

This disease is also called passion fruit woodiness virus (PWV) and it is commonly spread by aphids.

Evidence of this disease to look out for includes mosaic symptoms on leaves, characterized by transparency and visible veining as leaves appear to be “bleached;” woody, deformed fruits; and stunted growth.

Treatment may include spraying with sodium hypochlorite; however, passionflower is intolerant of salt, and this type of treatment can also cause harm to the plant.

Mosaic Virus

There are several types of mosaic virus that may affect passionflower, and all cause similar damage such as spotting and mottling of leaves; distorted, curled leaves; and brittle vegetation.

Once again, this virus is spread by aphid infestation, so check for their presence to help combat further spread.

If only a few leaves are affected, remove and burn them, or dispose of them in the trash, away from other plants.

If the virus has spread further, prune away the affected parts of the plant.

Mosaic virus is easily spread. Keep vines that are growing in close proximity to others isolated by making sure that the foliage is not coming in contact with other plants or shared soil.

Most varieties of passionflower vine produce fruits the size and shape of a chicken egg, although some can be larger or more oblong.

The fruits will mature from bright green to a deep shade of purple, yellow, orange, or red, depending on the species.

As they ripen, they’ll begin to shrivel noticeably. Don’t worry! Even though the skin looks old and may even start to mildew, this is normal, and there is nothing wrong with the plant.

When fruits are ripe, their color deepens. Be sure to wait until they are fully ripened to pluck them from the vine, as green fruit will not continue to ripen once it’s picked.

Fruits can be left uneaten for a few days, either stored at room temperature or in the refrigerator, to develop maximum flavor and sweetness.

Find a recipe for a delectable non-alcoholic passion fruit mocktail on our sister site, Foodal.

The pulp can be processed into jelly, or pressure canned in a method similar to what would be used to make lemon curd.

Pulp can also be scooped out and frozen in an airtight container or zip-top bag for up to three months.

How to grow Dahlias 

Commemorating Andreas Dahl, a Swedish botanist who was a pupil of Linnaeus (Compositae). Half-hardy, tuberous-rooted perennials from Mexico, were first introduced into Britain in 1789 by Lord Bute.

Species cultivated (Few of the following original species are available, although they may occasionally be seen in botanic gardens and the like).

D. coccinea; 4 feet, scarlet, September, the parent of the single dahlia.

D. coronata, 4 feet, fragrant scarlet flowers on long stems, autumn.

D. excelsa, 15-20 feet, purplish-pink flowers, summer.

D. gracilis, 5 feet, scarlet-orange flowers, September.

D. juarezii, 3 feet, parent of the cactus dahlias, flowers scarlet, late August and September.

D. merckii, 3 feet, lilac and yellow flowers, October (together with

D. variabilis the parent of most modern double dahlias).

D variabilis, 4 feet, (syns. D. pinnata, D. rosea, D. superflua), variable flower colors, even a green form was suspected at the end of the nineteenth century. The parent of show, fancy and pompon dahlias.

Cultivation

Nowadays dahlias are comparatively easy to grow. They tolerate all soils between the moderately acid and alkaline and for ordinary garden purposes need little or no specialized attention yet will flower profusely In their evolution they have produced multiple types and hundreds of thousands of varieties simply because they are a cross-pollinated plant. This means that it is possible to produce unusual and original cultivars by raising plants from seeds, which is an additional asset. Furthermore, with the correct culture, plants will flower continuously from July until the first autumn frosts, providing a colorful display over a range of several months.

Soil preparation

This begins in winter or early spring by digging of the site, at the same time incorporating plenty of bulky organic materials such as peat, leaf-mould, spent hops, vegetable compost, or well-rotted horse, pig or cow manure, but not poultry manure which encourages too much growth at the expense of flowers. Put any of these into the top foot of soil, because dahlias make a mass of fibrous roots in this region. The organic materials can be mixed into the planting holes if only a few tubers or plants are grown, or if dahlias follow spring bedding plants, but generally, it is better to dig them in the ground overall.

A fortnight before planting, topdress the ground with a general granular fertilizer containing a higher amount of potash in comparison with the nitrogen and phosphate content Root crop fertilizers have this analysis, and potato fertilizers are very good for the purpose. This application will provide the extra plant food needed during growth, the organic materials previously supplied mainly provide humus for improving the soil conditions and water retention.

Type of stock

The choice of stock will depend on the purpose which the plants are to fulfill dormant tubers are best for a generaly garden display, for they flower earlier than dahlia plants and produce more flowers over the season as a whole. If you want extremely early flowers, for instance blooming in May, you can plant tubers in pots, or even in the greenhouse border, in February. If you have cloches, you can plant tubers outdoors in April and they will start to flower during early July.

Remove the cloches in mid-June. In both these instances, the best flowers will be over before the growing season has finished. For the best results over the whole season, plant dormant tubers during the first half of May out of doors. They will not usually need protection, because by the time the shoots emerge above ground level it is likely that the threat of any late spring frosts will be past. Nevertheless, keep sacks, pots, polythene bags or other materials handy in case of occasional night frost at this time. Flowering will start in late July and early August.

There are two types of tuber, one being the ground root, a large bulky root resulting from growing a dahlia out of doors without restricting the roots. If replanted from year to year, the number of tubers tends to increase to excess, too many poor quality flowers result, and vigor and tuber formation decrease. Division every second year into several portions is advisable; each portion containing several growth buds, or eyes, and having at least one complete healthy tuber to start them into growth. (At this point, it may be noted that, unlike the potato, dahlia eyes are not on each individual tuber, but are congregated at the base of the old stems).

An easy way to judge how many portions a root can be divided into is to put it in the greenhouse for a fortnight or three weeks. Spray overhead with water every second day until the shoots are about inch long. Do not bury the tuber in any material as this will encourage unwanted root growth. With a small hacksaw cut the root into portions according to where the emerging shoots are grouped, or lever it apart with an old screwdriver.

The other type of dahlia tuber, the pot-grown or pot tuber, is often sold in general garden shops and multiple stores in the spring. It is produced from cuttings struck in early spring and grown in pots all through the season so that the roots are restricted and the tuber forms into a neat rounded mass. Although pot tubers are easy to store and transport, forming very good stock for the garden, they are not so good as ground roots for producing cuttings, generally having insufficient bulk to be divided. Pot tubers become ground roots after a season of growth out of doors and their planting times are the same as for ground roots. Before actual planting, chip away some of the wax coating if present to allow moisture to swell the tuber. All tubers can be planted until mid-June.

The dahlia plant itself, which provides a type of stock commonly sold by dahlia nurseries, is formed by rooting dahlia cuttings. Plants grown from cuttings flower later than those grown from tubers, though if you need early flowers before mid-August, it is a good idea to specify on the order sheet ‘April Delivery. If you have a greenhouse or frame, you can then pot the plants into 5 inch pots and they will grow into fine bushy specimens by planting out time. This is standard technique for large and giant-flowered varieties.

It is not difficult to keep Dahlias from one 6 years to the next if simple precautions are observed. The Dahlia is a native of the warm Mexican climate: therefore, in cooler areas the tubers must be lifted in the autumn, dried and stored in a dry, frost-free place.

1. Dahlia foliage is very sensitive to frost and will be blackened by the first frost.

2. Immediately after this occurs, cut down the plants to within 9 inches of ground level.

3. Remove the tops and lift the plants with a fork, taking care not to spear the tubers in the process.

4. Shake off the soil and stand the tubers upside-down in a dry, airy place to drain away the surplus sap.

5. Once the tubers are thoroughly dry, they can be stored in any dry frost-free place.

6. Storing them in a bit of dry peat is not necessary, but it will help to exclude frost and absorb excess moisture.

7. Tubers can be stored outside in a deep frame, if they are close together against a 10 sheltered wall and protected with leaves and mats against frost.

8. Dahlias are usually propagated from cuttings made from shoots that arise from the old stems. These arise from the tubers, which are stood close together on a greenhouse bench and covered lightly with soil or peat to retain moisture.

9. Maintain a temperature of 60°F (16°C) and take cuttings when the shoots are 2 to 3 inches long.

10. With a sharp knife, remove lower leaves.

11. Make a basal cut below a joint.

12. Insert the cuttings firmly with a dibber around the edge of a 31 inch pot of sandy compost.

13. Each cutting should be clearly labeled with the name of the variety and watered in. Then stand the pots in a close frame in the propagating house. Hormone rooting powders usually increase the number of cuttings that root while reducing the time. The inclusion of a fungicide helps reduce loss.

You cannot plant unprotected dahlia plants out of doors until late May, or even safer, the first ten days in June. With cloches or in sheltered situations, free from late spring frosts, you can plant out in late April or early May. In the north and in Scotland, mid-June.

Planting Out

This stage is best tackled by taking out a hole in the ground with a small spade. Stakes should be inserted at this time to avoid damage to the tubers which would occur if they were put in later. The hole should be wide enough to prevent cramping and deep enough to allow the upper surfaces of the tubers to be about 2 inches below ground level. Replace the earth on top, shaking the tuber to settle it around the root as you proceed, firming it in by gentle treading. This applies to both ground and pot tubers. Planting distances are 2 feet apart for pompons, 2 feet for ball dahlias and all others, except the large and giant decoratives, such as cactus and semi-cactus, which should be 3 feet apart.

Keep the soil watered periodically to swell the tubers and to start the shoots into growth. Shoots should emerge above the soil within five weeks; if not, dig up the tuber and inspect it for decay and slug damage. Slug pellets applied above soil level around the root when planting both tubers and plants are an advisable precaution. Dahlia plants are placed in a hole taken out with a trowel and their roots set so that the potting soil is just below ground level. Fiber pots, should be carefully removed from the plants before planting out. (With peat pots especially, make sure to keep the soil moist enough to encourage the roots to penetrate into the open ground, since failure to do this is a frequent cause of stunted, poorly growing plants). Again, it is important to plant to a stake, previously driven in, thus avoiding damage to the roots.

Moreover, arranging the stakes in a desired pattern can be a useful guide to design.

Summer Care

The main requirement is copious watering, not a lot of feeding.

Provided that you have prepared the soil as suggested, all that will be needed during the growing period will be two topdressings of sulfate of potash, each at the rate of 1 oz per square yard. One should be given at the first sign of the petal color opening from the bud, to improve stem strength and flower color; the other during early September to improve tuber formation. Monthly feeds of liquid manures made from seaweed extracts are also very good and give excellent results even if used for foliar feeding. The dahlia makes a lot of leaves in August and even in very wet weather the soil may remain dry around the roots.

The need to water very frequently can be largely avoided even in the hottest weather if a thick mulch of straw is provided at the roots in mid-July. This keeps down weeds as well as encourages better root growth.

Tubers will need at least one strong stake, but dahlia plants are better if they are supported by a triangle of three canes or stakes. Such plants have to carry all the weight of stems, leaves and flowers on one main stem or ‘leg’, so are very prone to wind damage. Tubers on the other hand, push out rigid shoots from below soil level and are much less likely to be broken by the wind in the early stages of growth. These shoots should be tied to the stake every 18 inches, whereas the dahlia plant needs tying every 6 inches for additional protection. A good average length for dahlia supports is 5 feet; these are knocked into the ground to a depth of 1 foot. Avoid having the stakes higher than the blooms because the wind will knock the flowers against them.

Ground tubers can be left to produce flowers on the tips of their main stems.

Allow about eight main stems per division to emerge, and cut off any others below soil level carefully with a knife. Large and giant-flowered varieties should be allowed to produce about five stems only.

Pot tubers, unless they produce sufficient main shoots from below soil level, will have to be treated like green plants. The leading growth tip of the plant is pinched out, or ‘stopped’, about a month after planting out, usually when about six pairs of leaves have developed. This encourages side shoots to be produced so plenty of flowers come into bloom as a start; otherwise, if not stopped in advance, dahlia plants produce one central flower only at first.

Take notice which are the strongest emerging side shoots after stopping, and when they are 3 inches long, remove the excess ones by snapping them out from their joints with the main stem. Retain five shoots only, however, with large and giant-flowered varieties. The technique with the pot tuber is to select initially the strongest main shoot, similar to that of the dahlia plant as the central growing stem, removing the others.

This main shoot will be stopped and the side shoots selected in exactly the same way. A ground tuber is not usually stopped, the flowers being borne on the terminal, or crown buds of each stem. It can, however, be treated like a pot tuber or green plant as far as shoot growth is concerned, but by stopping and selecting one main stem, the flowers, through having to be produced on side shoots, will be about three weeks later than on the tips of the main stems. Pompon varieties need no de-shooting or disbudding.

Disbudding should be done to all other types when the flower buds are about the size of a pea. Allow the main, centrally placed, largest bud to remain and flower on each shoot, removing the others, together with the fresh secondary shoots which will emerge from each leaf joint on the stem as the flowers mature. Leave just one, fairly low down, on each stem to produce the successive flower, again disbudding and de-shooting. This technique is adopted throughout the flowering period and is the only way to achieve a long flowering season combined with good quality flowers with long stems for cutting.

Left to their own devices, dahlias produce a mass of buds and flowers and soon become uncontrollable, their very tiny, poor blossoms often becoming single by the end of the season. If you need small-flowered dahlias, grow special small-flowered varieties.

Lifting and Storing

Ideally, this is done once frost has blackened the foliage. If, however, the autumn continues without frost, it does no harm to lift dahlias in late October and early November. Only in the mildest of places, in very sheltered situations or during unusually gentle winters can dahlias be left out of doors in the ground all winter. They can be put into a clamp in the same way as potatoes, but the disadvantage here is that they may be killed if the weather becomes very severe. Furthermore, you cannot examine them for signs of rotting or put them in the greenhouse to take cuttings.

To lift dahlia roots, first cut off the stems just above soil level. Then lift by prising in a circle with a broad-tined fork, working well away from the stems. After lifting the roots clear of the soil, pick off as much adhering earth as possible. Then place the roots upside down in a well-ventilated greenhouse, frame or shed for at least a fortnight. During this period they will lose excess moisture and by the time the remaining soil becomes dust dry, they will be ready to be put into winter storage. There they should be covered with sacks or straw at night if frost threatens. Only in very wet autumns should artificial heat be used, never exceeding 70°F (21°C).

Before placing them in the store, retrim the stems as low as possible, without actually cutting into the tubers. Retie the labels on one of the tubers, because in store the stems will become paper dry and will actually drop off. Most dahlia roots need no covering in store, and in fact, a frequent cause of loss during the winter is covering them up, putting them away in a cupboard and forgetting about them until the spring. Lay them on racks in a frost-proof shed, cellar, or in greenhouse which can be kept frost free. Straw bales provide good frost protection.

Very tiny tubers, however, should be covered in boxes or pots with material such as garden soil or sand. During the winter, sprinkle the surface with water very occasionally if it gets dust dry, but avoid giving sufficient water to start the tubers into growth. A good temperature to aim at in store is 40-50°F (4-10°C); failing that, it should never fall below 34°F (1°C) nor exceed 50°F (10°C). If you have to store them in a warm place, shriveling is likely, so all tubers must then be covered with sand or soil in boxes, but keep the boxes separated and put only one layer of tubers in each box. Avoid any store that is subject to drips or draughts, or is so airtight that it encourages fungus rot.

Every month inspect the tubers and if any parts are rotting, cut them out with a sharp knife. Dry the surfaces left with a rag. Occasionally look for aphids which may have hatched out in store or bulb flies which sometimes attack the roots.

Pests and diseases

As a general precaution, always spray dahlias with insecticides every three weeks during the season of growth, including those growing in the greenhouse and frame.

Sometimes the soil becomes infected with verticillium wilt when the stock must be burnt and a fresh growing site found. Cauliflower-like outgrowths, due to crown gall, also mean that affected stock must be destroyed, but it is slow 3 to spread and healthy stock can still be grown in the same ground.

A common leaf disease, especially in humid summers, is the dahlia leaf spot, causing light green ringed spots which later turn brown. In this event, treat the leaves with zineb.

Plants are sometimes attacked by virus diseases, of which light green patches or yellowing bands up the veins and perhaps dark green blisters on the leaves are symptoms. A more certain sign is dwarfing of the plant, which becomes very close-jointed and bushy, producing small flowers. Burn stock is affected in this way, for there is no cure at present.

Common pests are blackflies in early summer, often migrating from broad beans, greenflies during summer and autumn, thrips and capsid bugs from time to time.

A difficult pest to control is the red spider mite which may attack some plants in dry seasons, causing yellow mottling. Frequent syringing under the leaves with water and spraying with an organic formula every ten days is the control routine to follow.

Earwigs are often a nuisance, eating holes in leaves and flowers. These can be controlled if you provide upturned pots, loosely filled with woodwool, straw, hay, etc., and placed on top of the canes or stakes; these should be emptied into boiling water.

Wasps sometimes make damaging attacks on dahlia flower stems and it is usually necessary to destroy the nest completely.

Propagation

The preparation for growing from seed is a simple matter. Remove the petals as they fade and take the seed pods indoors before the frost, later extracting the seed and placing it in envelopes. The seed is sown in boxes in mid-March, and the seedlings are potted off in May and planted out in June. The best breeding, however, is done by crossing selected varieties by hand, and covering the blooms with old nylon stockings to prevent chance pollination by bees and other insects. It should be remembered that dahlias do not come true to type or variety from seed, though dwarf bedding types, such as `Coltness Gem’ or `Unwins Hybrids’ are commonly grown in this way as they come reasonably true.

Years ago dahlia shoots were grafted onto tubers to produce plants, but only research into virus control now employs this technique. Nowadays dahlias are commonly propagated from cuttings. Tubers are packed close together in boxes of soil in February, put on the greenhouse bench with bottom heat of about 60°F (16°C) and watered. When the shoots, produced after some three weeks, are about 2 inches long, they are cut off close to the tuber just below a leaf joint, and after removing the lower leaves, they are inserted into holes around the edge of 3-inch pots. The holes are made by inserting a pencil-sized dibber 1} inches deep into the rooting medium in the pots, commonly sand or a mixture of equal parts of peat and sand. Five cuttings are placed in each pot. The pots are then placed over bottom heat from soil-warming wires, or electrical heating mats. The temperature should be about 60°F (16°C) around the pots. Cover the pots by suspending polythene sheeting above them in the daytime, plus brown paper if the sun shines, and spray them gently with water morning and night, removing the covers overnight. Do not make the mistake of overwatering the pots during the rooting period, or rotting may take place. Add water to the pot only when the sand surface dries out and then dip it in a bucket of water with a finger over the drainage hole until bubbles cease to rise. Otherwise, rely on overhead spraying on the cuttings themselves.

After two or three weeks, when new tip growth is evident, the cuttings will have rooted and can be potted off individually in ordinary potting compost. For the first ten days afterward, keep them in a warm part of the greenhouse, but for the rest of the time until planting out they grow much better if kept cool. Certainly, they should be ready to be put into a cold frame three weeks after potting off.

The division of tubers described earlier is the other method of propagation.

Types of dahlias

On January 1st 1966, a new system of Dahlia classification came into being. The National Dahlia Society is the authority for domestic classification. Periodically society issues a classified list of varieties showing the type or size to which any named variety belongs. There are now many groups, some being subdivided into sizes according to flower diameter. These include single-flowered, anemone-flowered, collerette, paeony-flowered and miscellaneous (containing such types as orchid-flowered). As far as the gardener is concerned the most popular groups are the decorative dahlia, with flat broad petals; the cactus dahlia with petals that roll backward to form a quill; semi-cactus dahlias, which have part only of their petal length rolled; pompon dahlias, like drumsticks, their flowers having blunt, tubular petals, under 2 inches in diameter; and the new group of ball dahlias which comprise all the previously known groups of medium and large pompons and the similar, but larger, double show varieties, plus any globular shaped varieties which were previously small or miniature decoratives.

Size groups are: pompons one size only; ball dahlias are divided into miniature balls, 2-4 inches, and balls over 4 inches, decorative, cactus and semi-cactus dahlias are each divided into five groups ; miniature, under 4 inches, small, 4-6 inches, medium 6-8 inches, large-flowered 8-10 inches, giant-flowered over 10 inches. Bedding dahlias are put where their flower shape designates them.

Exhibiting

Cultural technique varies little from that described. Cuttings are mostly used for propagation purposes; they flower during late August and the first half of September when most dahlia shows are held. Tubers of the large-flowered and giant varieties are started into growth in the greenhouse in mid-January, cuttings being taken for rooting during early March; plants, when put in the frame, later on, should be put into 5 inch pots by early May. All other varieties are started off in mid-February, the best plants being obtained from cuttings rooted during the end of March and the first three weeks in April. Those taken before this period will usually flower much too early for the shows.

For show work, it is much better to grow at least six plants of each good variety, so restricting the number of varieties to the capacity of the outdoor space available to grow them in. When garden plants are grown, for display, distances should be 2 feet apart for pompons, 2 feet apart for ball dahlias and all others, except the large and giant decoratives, cactus and semi-cactus which should be placed 3 feet apart. Many exhibitors mulch the giant varieties with manure in July; for the others, straw mulch is used. During flowering it is common practice to protect the flowers of the large and giant varieties either with cones made from brown paper or even by erecting metal uprights to support a roof made of corrugated vinyl clear plastic sheeting, giving the effect of an open-sided greenhouse.

Always cut the flowers the evening before and stand them in a cool, dark place in water overnight. Large and giant blooms must have a 2-foot cane tied along the stem when it is cut to prevent the bloom toppling over in transit. Common methods of transport include oil or distemper drums with holes drilled around the edge to which the individual blooms can be tied; milk crates with one bloom in each corner resting in a water-filled bottle, or old butcher’s liver tins, especially for pompons. It is always advisable to carry flowers to a show in water.

The best way to pick up showing techniques is to join a Dahlia society if there is one in your locality, or if not, to contact the National Dahlia Society.

Shot-holing is a collection of small pits and holes that the insect chews out of the host’s leaves.

Young and recently transplanted plants are particularly susceptible. For the fastidious gardener, this little beetle can cause a lot of frustration!

Just in case the above-ground damage wasn’t scary enough, I’ll continue. Below ground, the larvae feed on the roots and tubers of host plants.

Notable is the damage suffered by potatoes from this insect, resulting in grooves marking the surface or small holes in the skin and outer flesh.

Last spring, my husband I planted the most perfect potato patch. We patiently waited while the precious spuds grew.

We noticed some small holes dotting the foliage, but nothing too alarming (we thought…).

Dig day arrived, and to our great annoyance, our spuds appeared to have been poked by a ballpoint pen, with dark holes spotting the otherwise beautiful tubers.

Though imperfect produce is often just as delicious as a potato or tomato with a pristine skin plucked from a plant with unnibbled leaves, do you really want to share those crops with the neighbors?

I didn’t think so. So it’s time to get rid of those bugs!

Organic management methods may be employed to combat these pests through cultural, physical, and organic-approved sprays and drenches.

Identification, Biology, and Distribution

The flea beetle is approximately 1/16-1/4 inch long, depending on the type. Its segmented back legs are long, giving it the ability to jump.

And it is also adept at flying. There are numerous species, and their colors vary widely depending on the region where they are found.

The beetles come in some very fancy colors including black, greenish-black, brown, metallic, white-striped, or yellow and orange striped.

Don’t be fooled. Develop a keen eye for spotting these pests, so you don’t have to suffer the devastation of their less-than-creative artwork on your plants’ leaves and tubers.

See the table below to identify some common cruciferous feeders (cole crops like cabbage, kale, and Brussels sprouts) versus solanaceous feeders (nightshade family including tomatoes, potatoes, and eggplant).

These insects identify their feast (read: host plant) based on smell and visual indicators – much like we do!

Flea Beetle Types

Life Cycle

Adult beetles overwinter in the soil, leaf debris, or grassy borders of the garden or field. At just about the same time when we begin to emerge from our homes in springtime, so do they. As temperature warm, they get busy.

Adults find a healthy host and begin chowing down after a long winter’s nap. Following a hearty meal, the beetles lay their eggs at the base of the host plant.

These eggs will hatch in approximately 10 days, hatching out into small whitish larvae measuring between 1/8 and 1/4 inch long, with dark heads and tiny legs behind.

They are less cute than they sound.

Freshly hatched larvae feed on the roots of plants for the next three to four weeks.

Following this period, they pupate for approximately 7-10 days before surfacing to indulge above ground. In warmer regions, multiple generations may occur each year.

And that’s likely to cause a problem in your vegetable patch, unless you take action.

With some careful planning, preventative measures, and an action plan in place, you won’t have to worry about the safety of your precious broccoli and eggplants.

Damage Caused

Don’t wait until it’s too late!

The flea beetle may cause significant damage to the roots and foliage of your plants. Scouting twice a day for these pests is a good practice in an organic program.

I like to set an alarm on my phone to remind me to check the garden twice during the day.

I grab a little gardening journal that I keep by the back door and trot to the garden for a quick scouting session. I take notes and pictures of what I see, so I will have a record.

This really doesn’t have to take more than a few minutes to accomplish, depending on the size of your garden.

Watch for holes that have been chewed into the leaves by adult flea beetles in the pattern of buckshot, or a messy lace pattern.

To scout for larval damage, check the roots of a few plants or the tubers of potato plants to look for the whitish larvae munching away, or furrowing grooves in your tubers.

If you’re like me and can’t stand the thought of sacrificing a few plants, you can dig down next to the plant, gingerly move the dirt to the side to take a look, and replace the dirt afterwards.

Be vigilant. If you do have an infestation, take action immediately to avoid further damage, and to remediate this threat to the health of your plants.

Organic Control Methods

There are a variety of methods for controlling these pests, including cultural, physical, and biological.

Cultural

You can often avoid an infestation altogether with some cultural controls.

Planting Schedules

Planting earlier than adult flea beetles become active in springtime can give your plants a head start on the season. And who doesn’t like a good head start?

Plant well hardened-off transplants as soon as the threat of frost has passed in your region.

Another record-keeping tip: If you aren’t keeping a gardening journal already, start one. Record when you plant your first transplants, and when you spot your first beetle.

You have no idea how much this will aid your planting schedule design and pest management routine in years to come (or maybe you already do have some idea, and you just need an extra push to put pen to paper – you’re welcome!).

You may also consider planting your brassica crops later in the summer, when the adults are getting sleepy from all of their summertime feasting and going dormant.

Sanitation

Being diligent about keeping your garden clean and free of too much debris may help to keep pest pressure at bay.

I use the same (okay, maybe a little looser) rules in my garden as I do in my bathroom:

A little cleanup each day keeps the unwanted guests from taking up house. Do your best to keep tall weeds and old piles of leaves out of the garden where these insect pests may overwinter.

Till the Soil

This is a cultural method implemented by many, especially in the spring and fall.

This method is a little gruesome for my taste, but if it’s unwanted pests or my potatoes and broccoli, the choice is a little easier to make.

Tilling in the spring kills the majority of overwintered beetles, while tilling later in the season destroys larvae and cleans up the garden before fall, interrupting the adults’ overwintering patterns.

Though tilling may help with immediate management, its long-term benefits may not be as effective as other cultural management methods – especially if you subscribe to no-till methods and believe in promoting a healthy microbial ecosystem and applying helpful soil microbes.

I am personally of this camp. You can read more about the benefits of a no-till garden here.

Trap Crops

A trap crop acts as a decoy for the main crop. Plant your trap crop before your main crop so that the insects are attracted to your trap crop first. Sacrificial, but usually effective!

If you spot flea beetles in your trap crop, consider spraying or dusting (depending on your chosen method of management) to control the population and keep them from migrating towards the main crop as the trap crop becomes less desirable.

Some recommend tilling under the trap crop once it becomes infested, but this could create a dangerous situation wherein the main crop becomes the primary target.

Some good trap crops include radishes, giant Chinese mustard, collards, and bok choy. The idea is to provide a tempting treat for the insects so they will focus on the trap crop instead of the main crop.

Plant your trap crop around the perimeter or in between rows of your main crop for best results.

Read more about planting and using trap crops here.

Legumes like clover and vetch act as fantastic living mulch between rows, or under-sown. However, do note that living mulches will compete with the main crop for water and nutrients.

Non-living mulches can interfere with the adult flea beetle’s egg-laying. A few options for non-living mulches that I prefer are barley straw and leaf litter.

Keep in mind that it is important to clear these mulches out at the end of the season to prevent providing a perfect overwintering space for adult beetles.

Transplant Large Seedlings

Transplanting seedlings that are mature and large is another excellent way to combat flea beetles.

Older transplants may resist pest pressure and recover more quickly if they suffer damage.

Transplanting puny starts (read: baby plants) essentially sends an open invitation to the the transplant’s predators: “Pick me! I’m weak and ripe for the eating!”

A transplant goes through a lot of stress when it is transitioning from its first home, the starter flat that you carefully planted in your guest room or brought home from the garden center, to its permanent spot in the garden.

The healthier it is, the greater chance it has of successfully surviving the big move.

Sticky Traps

These traps may be used to trap insect pests, but their real value comes in helping to scout and identify the insects living in your garden.

Some traps are designed to actually combat pest pressure by attracting and catching specific insects, to keep them from eating your plants.

But usually – and specifically for flea beetles – they are used as a tool for you to more easily get to know who the unwanted visitors are to your garden.

Traps act like low-tech security cameras!

In this guide, we’ll talk about everything you need to know about growing wood hyacinth in your garden.

Here’s the lineup:

Cultivation and History

Hyacinthoides hispanica, also known as Spanish bluebell, wood hyacinth, large bluebell, or squill, is native to Spain, Portugal, and northwest Africa.

The pretty bell-shaped flowers, often a deep blue-periwinkle shade, make the reasoning behind the common name “bluebell” obvious.

“Hyacinth,” translated from the genus name Hyacinthoides, is derived from the Greek hyákinthos, which was the name of a legendary youth accidentally killed by the god Zephyr. A flowering plant supposedly grew from his blood and was given his name.

Spanish bluebell’s most common colloquial name, “wood hyacinth,” is likely derived from its love of the cool, dappled shade that woodlands and deciduous trees provide. “Squill” is normally a term for plants in the Asparagaceae subfamily, Scilloideae.

In some places the botanical name is still listed as Scilla campanulata, S. hispanica, or more rarely, Endymion hispanicus.

These wood hyacinths are distinct from other bluebells, such as the English or common bluebell, H. non-scripta.

H. hispanica blooms later, are taller, and their flower bells sprout from all sides of the stem. The flowers have blue anthers and aren’t particularly fragrant, while English bluebells have creamy white anthers and are fragrant.

Although they aren’t fragrant, the flowers attract a variety of pollinators, including bees and butterflies.

These plants are poisonous, thanks to the presence of cardiac glycosides. They are highly toxic if eaten.

Thanks to efficient visiting pollinators, English and Spanish bluebells will hybridize if planted near each other. The result: a plant called H. x massartiana.

You never know what you’ll get with this hybrid. It’s variable in looks, has a combination of traits from both parents, and is common in the UK. True Spanish bluebells are rare, and the hybrid is often misidentified as Spanish bluebell.

Wood hyacinths will spread readily and are considered invasive in the Pacific Northwest. Consider carefully before planting and check local regulations first in areas where they are banned or may become a problem.

You can collect the seeds from your own flowers if H. non-scripta is not planted nearby, or if you don’t mind propagating a hybrid.

Alternatively, purchase open-pollinated seeds to guarantee you are planting pure H. hispanica.

Sow the seeds as soon as you collect them in the summer. Place individually in small three- or four-inch pots filled with a well-draining potting soil, cover with a thin layer of compost or soil, and keep the medium moist.

The seeds don’t appreciate artificial heat, and prefer a cool, shaded area outdoors to germinate.

Be patient. These seeds are in no hurry, and most will not germinate until the following spring. To protect the pots during the winter, place in a cold frame, against a wall or tree.

Once germinated, grow individual seedlings in their pots until their roots are established and each plant is strong enough to be transplanted into a bigger pot or into the ground.

Plants grown from seed may take several years to flower as they put all their energy into developing a strong bulb.

From Bulb Offsets

Dividing bulb offsets is a good way to guarantee true Spanish bluebells – as they are clones of the parent – and they will flower quicker than those grown from seed.

Once established, these plants quickly develop aboveground clumps which indicate the presence of healthy bulb offsets below ground.

Remove bulb offsets in mid to late summer as soon as the leaves have died. Carefully dig up the bulb and remove offsets with your hands.

Read more about how to propagate bulbs at home in our guide.

Replant immediately to avoid allowing the roots to dry out. Prepare the soil by loosening and amending with compost.

Plant the offsets root side down, three to four inches deep, and four to six inches apart. Water in well.

Bulbs and Transplants

Purchased bulbs and plants can be planted in the garden in the fall.

As with bulb offsets, prepare the soil by loosening and amending it with compost.

Plant bulbs as you would offsets, as described above.

Living plants can be transplanted in a hole dug to the same depth as the container. Backfill with soil, and water in well.

What about growing wood hyacinths indoors? Why not! You can also force these bulbs to bloom for you during the winter.

Start approximately 12 weeks before you want them to bloom. Add two inches of clean pebbles or glass beads to a wide-mouthed vase. Situate three to five bulbs (pointy side up) into the pebbles, adding a handful more to keep them upright.

In addition to deadheading to prevent self-seeding, be sure to dig up offsets that have grown and multiplied while plants are still leafed out – these can be very difficult to locate while dormant.

Do not throw unwanted plant parts onto the compost pile where they can grow. Instead, dispose of them in the trash.

Planting in containers instead of in the ground can also help to prevent unwanted spread.

Managing Pests and Disease

You’re in luck. Not only are wood hyacinths resistant to deer, rabbits, and rodents, they are generally unaffected by serious insect pests and diseases as well, given the conditions they prefer.

Slugs and snails can become an issue, especially during wet spring weather. They’re plant chewing machines, and love snacking on leaves, flowers, and any other soft plant parts.

Read all about how to protect your garden from slugs and snails.

Be sure to choose a well-draining area of the garden to prevent potential problems with rot, or plant in containers with plenty of drainage holes, in a porous medium. Avoid oversaturating the soil.

Planting and forgetting them is possible with these spring bulbs! That is, until these stunners start blooming…

Cytisus or Broom

Free Blooming Shrubs for sunny location Leaf losing and evergreen hardy and tender shrubs which are very beautiful when in bloom in spring and summer; they bear pealike flowers of various colors.  About fifty species are known; they are natives chiefly of the Mediterranean region and the Canary Isles.  The name Cytisus is from kytisos, the Greek name for a kind of Clover. These shrubs belong to the Pea family, Leguminosae.

Sowing Seeds and Taking Cuttings. The Cytisus thrive best in well-drained, rather light land, but heavy ground can be made suitable by adding compost and sand or grit. They must have the sunniest possible position. The species or wild types of Cytisus are propagated by seeds sown as soon as they are ripe in pots or flats of sandy soil in a cold frame or greenhouse. Some gardeners believe it is advantageous to soak the seeds in water for 24 hours before sowing.

As the varieties do not come true from seeds they should be propagated by cuttings placed firmly in a bed of very sandy soil in a cold frame in August, or in similar soil in a shaded place out of doors and covered with a bell jar. The cuttings are made from firm summer shoots, 2-4 in. long, with a thin heel or piece of the older wood attached. The numerous named varieties may be propagated by grafting on stocks of Laburnum raised from seeds. The Laburnums are grown in pots and grafting is done in early spring in a propagating case in a warm greenhouse.

Planting and Pruning

Brooms should be grown in pots until large enough for planting in their permanent positions as they do not transplant very successfully from the open ground. For the first two or three years after propagation, whether by seeds, cuttings or grafting, the fresh shoots on the young plants should be cut back several times during the summer to ensure well-branched plants. In subsequent years most kinds of Brooms can be kept shapely by pruning the one-year-old shoots, but they do not produce new shoots freely when pruned back into the old wood. Those kinds which flower in April, May and June, should be cut back immediately the blossoms fade, two-thirds of the length of the previous season’s growths being cut off; those kinds which flower during July and August should be pruned in early spring, just before new growth recommences. When a bush becomes tall and bare-stemmed, it is better to dig it up and plant a young one rather than to prune back into the old wood.

Cytisus are good shrubs for lawn beds, sunny shrub borders, banks and rock garden slopes. The most popular kinds are the numerous varieties and hybrids of Cytisus scoparius, the Scotch Broom. They average 4-6 ft. high, and flower in May and June.

Spring-flowering Cytisus

A group of European-raised Cytisuses are extremely fine. Cytisus scoparius Golden Sunlight, with large golden-yellow blossoms is an object of great beauty. C. scoparius Andreanus, the first plant of which was found growing wild in Normandy, has crimson and gold blossoms; Firefly and Dragonfly are of richer coloring. Burkwoodii is crimson; Cornish Cream, cream colored; Dallimorei, rose purple, and Donard Seedling, crimson and yellow; Lady Moore, red and yellowish buff; Lord Lambourne, crimson and primrose, and there are many other equally lovely kinds. These hybrids and improved varieties will not stand severe winters.

Cytisus albus (multiflorus) is the White Portugal Broom, one of the most attractive of spring-flowering shrubs. C. Battandieri is a remarkable shrub or small tree from Morocco: it grows 12 to 15 ft. high. The leaves have a silvery appearance and the fragrant, golden-yellow flowers are in •erect racemes, which are produced along the branches in June. It flourishes in ordinary soil but is not hardy North. C. praecox has primrose-yellow flowers of rather unpleasant odor.

Summer-flowering Cytisus

Among those kinds which flower from midsummer onwards are C. ratisbonensis, 3-4 ft. high, yellow; C. sessilifolius, 5-6 ft. with yellow flowers on slender stalks; and C. nigricans, a useful kind which bears yellow flowers freely from July to September.

For the Rock Garden

A representative selection of rock garden Brooms includes the following: C. kewensis, trailing shoots thickly covered with primrose-yellow flowers in May; C. scoparius pendulus, large yellow flowers; C. scoparius sulphureus, low growing, flowers pale yellow; C Beanii, small golden-yellow flowers; C. purpureus, a spreading dwarf shrub with rosy-purple flowers; C. decumbens, a prostrate shrub only a few inches high with yellow blossoms, and C. Ardoinii, a pretty shrub from the Maritime Alps, with bright yellow flowers, that is not hardy in the North. All bloom in April and May.

For the Greenhouse

From the Canary Isles, northern Africa and other warm districts of the Mediterranean, Brooms which are not hardy in the North have been introduced. In the South and West they can be grown out of doors but elsewhere the protection of a greenhouse is necessary.

The best known is the popular Cytisus (Genista) fragrans, with fragrant yellow blossoms, a favorite spring-flowering greenhouse shrub, and grown in market nurseries by the thousand for sale in florists’ shops.

The variety elegans is distinct in having grayish-green foliage. C. monspessulanus, the Montpelier Broom, is a graceful evergreen or semi-evergreen, 6-10 ft., with yellow flowers early in May.

Eutrema japonicum

I remember the first time I had a bit of real wasabi. Unlike the neon green stuff I was so familiar with, it had an herbal complexity that I was totally unprepared for. It was, as they say, a revelation.

If you’ve never tasted real wasabi before, you’re in for a treat. The delicious edible leaves, stems, and flowers are just a special bonus, and one that is nearly impossible to find in stores in the US.

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It’s a good thing this herbaceous wonder is so incredibly tasty, because it’s a bit demanding in terms of the environmental conditions it requires to grow well.

You either really have to love wasabi or you have to love a gardening challenge if you plan on growing this marvel.

That’s not to scare you off. In the right climate, it’s actually not as difficult as its reputation suggests. If you’re giving it a go in, say, New Mexico, you have to prepare yourself for some work. But the rewards are oh-so worth it. No pain, no gain, right?!

If I haven’t sent you running for the hills, let’s get started on our adventure. Here’s what we’re going to talk about:

In reality, it’s not the plants themselves that are difficult to grow if you don’t mind keeping them in containers.

If you can make mustard or horseradish thrive, this plant isn’t much different, and you’ll be drowning in tasty leaves and stems. But growing a magnificent rhizome worth dabbing on the finest fish? That’s a bit more challenging.

We’ll walk you through it.

What Is Wasabi?

Wasabi (Eutrema japonicum syn. E. japonica, Wasabia japonica) is a member of the brassica family Brassicaceae, and it is closely related to mustard.

Famously difficult to cultivate, it is only grown commercially in the US in parts of the rainy Oregon coast, and in North Carolina and Tennessee in the Blue Ridge Mountains.

In Canada, it’s grown in parts of coastal British Columbia.

Don’t let that scare you off! You can grow wasabi anywhere, though you might need to baby these plants if you live somewhere hot, dry, or extremely cold.

These herbaceous veggies originally grew wild in Japan, parts of Russia, and South Korea near streambeds in temperate climates that rarely climb above 80°F or drop below freezing.

Now, having said that, I can personally attest to the fact that some cultivars can survive in warmer and colder regions.

My wasabi sat outside through weeks of freezing temps this last winter. One night even dropped down to 25°F.

I covered my plants with cardboard during the coldest nights, but left them out otherwise. They were buried by a foot of snow, and in the same year, were subjected to temperatures in the high 90s. It was a weird year, climate-wise, in my neck of the woods.

Some of the leaves burned at the edges a bit in the heat, but my plants were fine otherwise.

USDA Hardiness Zones 8 to 10 are ideal, and the best-tasting rhizomes grow in temperatures ranging from 43 to 68°F.

Hotter or colder temperatures can impact the flavor and texture of the rhizome. Extreme temperatures also leave the plant susceptible to fungal issues.

So, yes. You can grow wasabi if you don’t have the perfect climate. You’ll need to keep your plants in containers and you’ll have to be prepared to move them during extreme weather, but it can be done.

Alternatively, you can grow them indoors as well. They don’t need a lot of light and they prefer temperatures right around where most humans like it. Plus, they’re pretty!

They have big, kidney-shaped, edible leaves. In the spring, they have long stalks with small, also edible, white flowers, followed by seeds.

Seeds will only develop properly if the temperature drops low enough for vernalization, however. The leaf stems (petioles) can be green, purple, or red.

The plants can grow to about two feet tall and spread through plantlets on underground rhizomes. Each mother plant can produce up to two dozen of these. Underground, you’ll find a finger-shaped rhizome, which is actually a stem, that can be grated to release that marvelous, spicy magic.

If you’ve only ever had the typical wasabi substitute at a sushi restaurant, which is made using horseradish, you only have an inkling of how delicious real wasabi can be.

It lacks that intense bite that makes your sinuses weep and has a more complex, herbal, sweeter flavor.

You can eat a nibble of fresh wasabi and it won’t make your eyes water. It still has that spicy, sinus-based kick, but it’s just more subtle. The kick also fades faster than with mustard or horseradish.

That spicy flavor comes from the compound allyl isothiocyanate, which is felt more nasally than on the tongue as with chili peppers.

Those who cultivate wasabi commercially grow it in semi-aquatic conditions known as sawa, which means swamp in Japanese. The resulting rhizomes are considered superior to the stuff grown in the ground, which is called oka, for blossom in Japanese.

It might just be the pride of being able to grow such a notoriously difficult veggie, but the stuff I’ve grown tastes every bit as good as what I’ve bought at high-end sushi places.

Okay, I’m biased, but it’s still awfully good despite being cultivated in soil.

Cultivation and History

Wasabi was originally mentioned in texts as a medicinal plant and appears in Japanese writings from around 600 AD.

It wasn’t until the 17th or 18th century that people in Japan started cultivating it. By the early 1800s, people realized that it made an excellent addition to raw fish.

It’s not clear if people first used it for the flavor or for its antimicrobial properties. Perhaps a bit of both?

While we may not have had the scientific tools to prove it hundreds of years ago, people likely noticed that raw fish eaten with wasabi was less likely to make them sick. Recent studies confirm what many had already figured out.

For instance, a study by Zhongjing Lu, Christopher R. Dockery, Michael Crosby, Katherine Chavarria, Brett Patterson, and Matthew Giedd, researchers from Kennesaw State University in Georgia, found wasabi to be effective against E. coli (Escherichia coli O157:H7) and staph (Staphylococcus aureus).

They published their findings in the journal Frontiers in Microbiology and while I appreciate their efforts, I’d probably be stuffing my face with wasabi even if it wasn’t an antimicrobial powerhouse.

Propagation

You can technically grow wasabi from seed, but best of luck to you getting your hands on them. Almost all seeds you find online are “wasabi” arugula or mustard seeds.

These plants don’t readily produce viable seeds, so real ones cost a fortune. Plus, they don’t germinate reliably, either.

That’s partially because the plants are self-incompatible. You need a male and a female to produce viable seeds. The seeds are also challenging to break out of dormancy and need pretty specific conditions to develop.

Stick to purchasing starts or dividing rhizomes.

You want loamy, rich, loose, well-draining soil regardless of which method you use. If you’re planting in the ground, make sure to work in tons and tons of well-rotted compost to make the soil as loamy, well-draining, and rich as possible.

Slightly acidic to neutral soil is best, with a pH between 6.0 and 7.0.

When it comes to selecting a container, it must have drainage holes and it should be light enough to move around. If you go with a heavy cement container, you should put it on wheels or your back will be hating you the first time the weather takes a turn.

All of the following options for propagation should be done in the spring or fall, and if you plant in the ground, provide 12 inches of space between each one.

From Nursery Transplants

You can sometimes find starts at local nurseries, depending on where you live.

If you’re in the Pacific Northwest or the Appalachian region, you may be able to find young plants at local or specialty shops. Those in places like Arizona or Wisconsin will probably have to go the online route.

Once you have your seedling, fill a large container with well-draining, loamy potting soil.

I’m always singing the praises of FoxFarm Ocean Forest potting mix, but I think it’s particularly perfect for wasabi. You don’t need to add anything. It’s just right the way it is.

FoxFarm Ocean Forest

Amazon carries this potting soil in 12-quart bags.

Remove the seedling from its nursery container and place it in your new pot, which needs to hold at least three gallons.

Make sure the rhizome is buried, but aim to keep the plant at the same depth as it was previously. You want the rhizome to be about half an inch below the top of the soil.

Fill in around it with potting soil and water well to settle everything. Add more soil if needed.

From Bare Roots

You can find bare root starts online. These usually include a small rhizome with a few leaves or young petioles.

You can also try planting the rhizomes you can buy at grocery stores, but they’re usually too old to sprout.

You should plant these the second you’re able to, but we all know life doesn’t make things that simple for us. Put your rhizomes in the fridge if you can’t plant them right away.

Plant each rhizome in a rich, loamy, well-draining potting soil so it is covered by about half an inch of soil. The container needs to have a capacity of three gallons or larger.

Make sure to plant the rhizome upright, with the leaves or petioles facing up. Water well and replace any settled potting soil with additional soil.

From Divisions

Once a plant is a few years old, you can pull it up and split up the rhizomes.

Keep a few for yourself to eat and separate a few to create new plants. Each rhizome, so long as it has a few nodes on it, can start a new plant.

To dig up your plant, dig around the drip line and down 18 inches. Leverage the plant out of the ground. If the plant is in a container, just remove it whole from the container.

Knock or wash away the soil and identify the rhizomes. Trim rhizomes away, taking care to include a few stems with each one, using a knife. Each one of these can develop into a new, individual plant.

Replant the rhizomes as described above for bare roots.

How to Grow

If you live somewhere with the perfect climate, go ahead and plant these directly in the ground.

Make things easier on yourself and put them in a raised bed filled with rich, loamy soil with a pH between 6.0 to 7.0.

For everyone else, plant your wasabi in containers. You WILL need to move your plants during extreme weather.

Wasabi tends to tolerate cold better than heat, so if you rarely see temps above 90°F, you’re probably fine leaving your plants in the ground.

Occasional freezes that hover above 29°F are fine, as well. If you experience more than just a few weeks of freezing temps or more than a few days at 28°F and your plant is toast. Anything below that is likely a death sentence.

If you have heavy snow throughout the winter, you will need to provide protection or move your plants from being crushed.

When it comes to sun exposure, you probably want to stick to full shade. In cooler regions, you can get away with some dappled morning sun.

I find that mine grow best when provided with a little dappled sun in the morning, but the afternoon sun is an absolute killer. Or rather, your plant might survive, but the rhizome quality will be low.

Don’t forget that if you’re placing your wasabi under deciduous trees that they’ll be exposed to too much light in the winter.

Indoors, place your plants in bright but indirect light.

Yes, wasabi grows on the banks of mountain streams, but you don’t want your plants in standing water. That’s a common misconception.

If you had fresh, cold, constantly moving water as you find at the edges of a streambed, you could put your plants there, but they don’t do well at all in swampy conditions.

Regardless, they’ll grow perfectly well in typical soil.

The amount of moisture you give arugula or lettuce? That’s what your spicy friends need.

In other words, consistently moist but not wet soil. It shouldn’t be allowed to dry out at any point. But it shouldn’t feel like a soggy mess. Aim for the consistency of a well-wrung-out sponge.

Fertilize your plants every three months with an all-purpose, mild fertilizer.

I use Down to Earth Vegetable Garden mix and I’ve had good success. I love this mix because it comes in compostable boxes and is formulated for veggies.

Down to Earth Vegetable Garden Fertilizer

Grab some for your garden at Arbico Organics. They carry one, five, or 15-pound boxes.

Growing Tips

• Keep the soil consistently moist but not wet.
• Plant in full shade or dappled morning sunlight.
• Protect plants during extreme weather.

Maintenance

There isn’t much maintenance required when growing wasabi. Divide the plants every few years as described above and replace the soil every three or four years if you’re growing in pots.

Potting soil tends to compact and leech nutrients, so it’s imperative that you refresh it regularly.

Trim away any dead or damaged leaves whenever you see them.

The mother plant will generally only have a viable lifespan of five or so years, which is why propagating root divisions is a good idea if you want to ensure an ongoing harvest.

Keep weeds away from your plants. Wasabi can’t compete and weeds act as hosts for diseases.

Pull the weeds rather than spraying them with an herbicide. Just be careful not to disturb the wasabi roots too much.

Cultivars to Select

Here are some E. japonicum cultivars that stand out:

Daruma

‘Daruma’ is, by far, the most popular cultivar. This is the one you’re most likely to find.

That’s partially because it’s tougher than most other cultivars, tolerating hotter and colder weather. It’s also resistant to black leg and soft rot.

If you enjoy the stems, this is a good option because they’re thick, juicy, and flavorful.

The heart-shaped leaves are beautiful on an upright to spreading plant. Rhizomes are ready to harvest in about two years.

‘Daruma’

Ready to dive into the world of ‘Daruma?’ Fast Growing Trees can make your dreams a reality.

Daruma Fuji

This cultivar looks like ‘Daruma’ but it grows more quickly. The rhizomes are ready in about a year.

I’ve found it to be slightly more prone to fungal diseases, though. Unlike its cousin, it has a fully spreading growth habit.

Green Thumb

This cultivar was developed in Taiwan and is a quick grower. It also has big, impressive leaves on an upright plant.

Kamogiko 13

Resistant to soft rot, ‘Kamogiko 13’ has a spreading habit with bunches of large, heart-shaped leaves with purple petioles. The stems are flavorful and spicy.

Mazuma

This upright cultivar is the other common one that you’ll find for sale, along with ‘Daruma.’ It’s spicier than its cousin, with pretty heart-shaped leaves and purple petioles.

It isn’t as cold tolerant as ‘Daruma’ but it’s better in heat. Sadly, it’s more prone to soft rot and black leg.

The flavor is considered to be potentially some of the best, with an elegant sweetness under the heat. It takes at least two years to grow a usable rhizome and is nearly impossible to grow from seed.

Midori

‘Midori’ grows extremely fast and features lovely blue petioles. The downside is that this spreading cultivar is more prone to fungal diseases.

Misho

Ready in just a year, this cultivar resists fungal diseases. The rhizome is faintly sweet on a spreading plant.

Mochi Daruma

I’d grow this variety purely for the stems. They’re huge and flavorful with a bright green color. Sadly, this spreading type is susceptible to soft rot.

Sanpoo

Don’t grow this cultivar for the stems, which are thin and flavorless. But the tender leaves with red and white petioles are delicious.

The rhizome has an excellent flavor with medium spiciness and the spreading plant is resistant to soft rot.

Shimane 3

Don’t mistake this one for ‘Shimane Zairai,’ which is inferior in every way to ‘Shimane 3.’

The latter is resistant to fungal diseases, features good-quality stems and a pungent rhizome, and has tender leaves with reddish petioles. It has a spreading habit.

Shizukei 13

This cultivar has, hands-down, my favorite stems. They’re thick, and spicy, with sweet notes. Stir-fried with some vinegar and white pepper, you’ll be in heaven.

The rhizome is delicious, as are the young, tender leaves, which have purple petioles. It’s tolerant of soft rot and has a spreading growth habit.

Managing Pests and Disease

If you manage to nail the lighting, temperature, and soil, your next major challenge is dealing with pests and diseases.

Herbivores

Rabbits, deer, and chickens might try to snack on your plants, but only as a last resort.

One winter, the deer were making a meal out of my garden. They were eating everything, including the stuff that they typically ignored. Everything, that is, except my wasabi plants.

My chickens mostly ignored my wasabi as well. They’d occasionally try a bite and then move on to better stuff.

Since you’re probably growing your plants in containers, don’t stress about it too much. You can just create a little fence around your plants to prevent nibblers from taking a bite.

I use chicken wire and a few pieces of thick wire to create a makeshift fence in my pots.

Insects

There are a few common insects that will make a meal out of your wasabi. Some people are surprised to learn that since the plant itself has a real kick to it. Hungry insects don’t care.

Aphids

Wherever plants go, aphids go. Cabbage root (Pemphigus populitransversus), turnip (Lipaphis pseudobrassicae), green peach (Myzus persicae), and potato aphids (Macrosiphum euphorbiae) are the most common species.

We have a guide that explains how to identify and eliminate aphids.

Avoid using harsh chemicals which can both harm the plant and render the leaves inedible. Stick to spraying them with water, neem oil, or insecticidal soap.

Cabbage Worms

Some years I shake my fists impotently at the sky when I find cabbage worms on my wasabi, and other years I just sigh and get to work plucking them off.

The one thing that’s consistent is that I’ll be dealing with these little worms, and the only thing that I can change is my attitude.

Cabbage worms are the larvae of those pretty, tiny white butterflies with gray spots, known as cabbage white butterflies (Pieris rapae) you see flitting through the garden in late summer.

I used to love those butterflies until I realized what they were doing to my cole crops.

Now, when I see those butterflies flitting through the garden, I head out to my brassicas to (inevitably) find and get rid of the cabbage worms that follow.

The truth is that these worms aren’t all that bad. Not only are they probably to thank for the pungent taste of mustard and wasabi, but they don’t actually kill wasabi plants.

A massive infestation might be a problem, but if you head outside in late summer and just pluck off any worms you find, the worst of the damage is just cosmetic.

Even if you’re planning on eating the leaves, it’s the young foliage that tastes best, so it doesn’t matter if those older leaves look a bit tattered. I find these worms tend to focus on the older leaves.

I just pluck the worms off, but there are other tactics you can use like encouraging or buying natural predators or applying organic, natural products like those that contain the beneficial bacteria Bacillus thuringiensis kurstaki (Btk).

Bonide Thuricide contains Btk and is highly effective against these pests.

Bonide Thuricide

You can pick up a quart or gallon of ready-to-use spray, or an eight- or 16-ounce concentrate, at Arbico Organics.

To learn more about figuring out if this pest is hanging out on your plants, and how to get rid of them if you are, read our guide.

Slugs

Slugs are a major problem when the plants are young. Wasabi loves the same conditions that slugs and snails do and I’ve forgotten to keep an eye on my young plants in some years. I lost several plants to those slimy little jerks.

Luckily, as long as your plants have a few leaves left, they’re pretty good at regenerating new leaves even if they’ve been largely defoliated.

Use your favorite control techniques to keep gastropods away, or find some new ones in our guide to controlling slugs on cole crops.

Disease

There are several fungal diseases that impact wasabi, but black leg and soft rot are the most common and the most troublesome.

Breeders are working on creating more resistant plants, but in the meantime, here’s what to know:

Black Leg

The fungal disease black leg is caused by Phoma wasabiae and it is incredibly destructive. It starts with black spots all over the leaves and stems.

Then, the holes in the leaves become angular and rotten, and the veins turn dark. Eventually, the whole plant from root to tip turns mushy and black.

It’s more common in warm weather over 70°F and it tends to be more likely on older plants.

Look for brown spots with gray, fuzzy centers. The spots will expand rapidly in favorable conditions, killing off the entire leaf and, not long after, the entire plant.

Once symptoms appear, it’s too late. There’s nothing you can do but cull the plant and toss out the soil it was growing in. Be sure to clean the container before planting wasabi or any of its relatives in there again.

If you find yourself dealing with this disease, no cultivar is totally immune, but look for resistant varieties next time to avoid the heartache.

Black Rot

Black or soft rot is a bacterial disease caused by Pectobacterium and Pseudomonas species.

The veins of the leaves on infected plants turn dark, followed by dark spots. These spots eventually turn white and the leaves turn yellow before dying.

‘Sanpoo’ and ‘Durama’ are resistant, but there is no available form of control once plants are infected. You’ll need to dispose of them.

Downy Mildew

Downy mildew is common but not terribly destructive if you catch it early.

Caused by Peronospora alliariae fungi, the leaves first turn pale yellowish-green before turning dark brown. A gray fuzz may develop on the undersides before leaves wilt.

It’s best controlled early and quickly.

Liquid copper fungicide spray is the best first line of attack. Use it alone or alternate it every two weeks with Fung-onil by Bonide.

Bonide Fung-onil

This spray works against a broad range of fungi and is twice as effective when paired with copper. Pick up a 16-ounce bottle at Amazon.

Whichever you use, spray the plant thoroughly, taking care to get the top and bottom of the leaves as well as the stems. Prune away any heavily damaged leaves.

Harvesting

To harvest, gently dig up the plant and brush or wash away the soil.

Harvest any rhizomes that are at least six inches long and two inches in diameter. This should be done in the spring or fall after a good rainfall.

The ideal coloring is a medium green, but you can still eat dark green or light green rhizomes. They just tend to have an inferior flavor.

The rhizome should be tapered like a baby carrot. If it’s jagged or unevenly shaped, it’s likely that the climate conditions were highly variable throughout the season.

It doesn’t matter to us home growers, but these would be considered inferior by commercial growers.

You can pluck leaves any time of year, but the best ones are young.

Wasabi plants continue to grow new leaves throughout the year from spring until fall. Flowers appear in the early spring and you can eat them any time they’re present.

Preserving

To store the rhizome, wrap it in a damp paper towel and place it in a bag in the refrigerator.

Replace the paper towel every few days and eat the root within a few weeks. Leaves and flowers should be eaten immediately.

The rhizome can also be dried if you’re looking for ways to use up a large harvest, but keep in mind that you’ll lose a lot of that delicate flavor.

If you decide to dry it, slice the rhizome up into thin pieces and lay them flat on parchment paper. Bake in the oven on low heat until crisp.

Recipes and Cooking Ideas

Obviously, the rhizomes are traditionally grated on a fine, flat metal or wood grater. There are also pretty circular graters made just for grating wasabi.

I like the one made by Kinjirushi because it creates an extremely creamy texture. Snag one at Amazon.

Wasabi Grater

More traditionally, wasabi root is grated into a paste using a samekawa-oroshi, which is a piece of wood covered in sharkskin to create a rough surface.

Grate up a bit and spoon it onto your plate. The paste should be eaten right away. As soon as you grate it, it starts to lose flavor.

If you want to use the wasabi in the traditional manner, you should dab it between the fish and the rice as you’re making your nigiri. You need a bit more paste with extremely fatty fish like fatty tuna or pungent fish like mackerel, and less with more subtly flavored fish.

You don’t need to add additional wasabi when you eat your nigiri unless you really want to.

If you want to add more, don’t mix it with soy sauce, just add a dab with your chopstick. (And don’t dip the rice side in your soy sauce! Dip the fish side.) You can take a small bit of wasabi and place it on sashimi before dipping it into your soy sauce as well.

If I hear that you’ve been mixing your fresh wasabi with your soy sauce, I might cry.

I think it’s perfectly fine to do this with the horseradish stuff, even though it isn’t how they do it in traditional sushi restaurants, but you’ve gone to all the trouble of growing this challenging plant. Don’t ruin the delicate flavor by mixing it with soy sauce.

If you only ever use your paste with raw fish or tataki (marinated beef), you already have a fantastic ingredient that doesn’t need to be put to use anywhere else.

But you can use it in so many other ways! And now that you aren’t paying extraordinary prices for a few ounces, you can afford to experiment.

Oregon Coast Wasabi has an excellent recipe for mint gazpacho that combines mint leaves, wasabi paste, chopped cucumber, lemon, garlic, olive oil, and salt.

I like to use the paste to make hummus and deviled eggs, while my husband uses it to make some killer bloody mary cocktails with the stems and leaves as a garnish.

Use the leaves on salads or to make pesto in place of basil leaves. They’re also tasty on sandwiches or chopped and added as a garnish to soup.

Surprise twist: wasabi and chocolate go together extremely well! One year I had more rhizomes than I knew what to do with, so I chopped up and crystalized a rhizome as you would ginger and added it to gooey chocolate cookies. To die for.

You can find instructions for crystallizing ginger on our sister site, Foodal.

Quick Reference Growing Guide

Plant Type:	Herbaceous perennial vegetable	Flower/Foliage Color:	White/green
Native to:	Japan, Russia, South Korea	Maintenance:	Low
Hardiness (USDA Zones):	8-10	Tolerance	Excess moisture
Bloom Time:	Spring/evergreen	Soil Type:	Loamy, rich
Exposure:	Shade or dappled morning sun	Soil pH:	6.0-7.0
Time to Maturity:	1-2 years	Soil Drainage:	Well-draining
Spacing:	12 inches	Attracts:	Bees
Planting Depth:	1/2 inch (rhizome)	Companion Planting:	Hostas, ferns
Height:	2 feet	Avoid Planting With:	Other cole crops
Spread:	2 feet	Order:	Brassicales
Growth Rate:	Fast	Family:	Brassicaceae
Water Needs:	Moderate to high	Genus:	Eutrema
Common Pests and Disease:	Aphids, cabbage worms, deer, rabbits, slugs, snails; black leg, downy mildew, soft rot	Species:	Japonicum syn. japonica

Make Mine Spicy

I was plucking cabbage white worms off my wasabi plants the other day and I thought to myself, you know? I wouldn’t give these plants up despite their fussy nature, or even if you could buy cheap leaves and roots at any old grocery store.

It’s not just that they’re beautiful, though they are, but there’s a lot to be said for a gardening challenge. When it all goes well, it’s delightful, but it can still be rewarding even when it all goes wrong.

I haven’t gone so far as to name my plants yet, but I’ve definitely developed a relationship with them. Any suggestions for naming them?

While we’re at it, do you have any great recipe ideas? I mean, you’re going to be flush with rhizomes soon, so you’d better be thinking ahead, and I’m always up for some tasty ideas. Share them in the comments.

If you want to grow some of wasabi’s less difficult brassica cousins, we can help with that. Here are a few guides worth checking out. Just remember not to plant them too close to your wasabi or you’ll encourage pests and diseases.

The frenzy of mid-to-late summer, as the harvests start to roll in, is always a doozy. One second, you’re jumping for joy at your first eggplant, the next, you have a bin full of peppers you’re unsure what to do with. But what if I told you that you could avoid the mad rush by harvesting earlier and later while growing more? Let me introduce to you succession planting!

For the longest time, I always thought of succession planting in the simplest form: gardeners can space out the timing of their planting so that their plants mature at different times.

But then I saw a talk by Meg McAndrews Cowden about her book, Plant Grow Harvest Repeat: Grow a Bounty of Vegetables, Fruits, and Flowers by Mastering the Art of Succession Planting.

At first, I thought, how could you write a whole book on succession planting? But with a background in natural resource management, Meg has a unique take on succession and how it also applies to generations of plants.

So, I want to share a little bit more about what exactly succession planting is and how you can master it in your own garden with the help of Meg.

PLUS, make sure to read all the way to the end to see how you can win a copy of Meg’s book and my own for yourself.

This post will cover…

Reprinted with permission from Plant Grow Harvest Repeat: Grow a Bounty of Vegetables, Fruits, and Flowers by Mastering the Art of Succession Planting by Meg McAndrews Cowden © 2022. Published by Timber Press, Inc.

Expert Tips for Succession Planting

• Plan your planting times to stagger when different plants mature throughout the growing season and have fresh vegetables for longer.
• Grow different varieties of the same vegetable to help with different harvesting times.
• Continuously start new seeds beyond the spring to extend the harvesting season.
• Use frost protection to allow you to begin seeds earlier and protect plants later in the fall.

What is Succession Planting?

My original take on succession planting remains true, albeit a simpler version. Here’s how Meg describes it: “In the simplest terms, succession means one follows another. In ecology, succession describes how plant communities develop over time, with different groups of plants succeeding one another.”

This means succession planting can occur in one season within your annuals and vegetables or over many years in how your trees, shrubs, and perennials grow.

Succession Planting in Practice

A forest is a great example of succession planting. The younger trees grow larger, eventually becoming overstory trees. As a wildfire comes or a large tree dies, it will fall down and then open up more sunlight to the ground cover plants. This then stimulates new growth, creating a constant cycle of succession.

Another wonderful example is weed seeds. I often refer to the weed bank, which is the store of seeds in our soil that can be dormant in our garden for 25 or more years. As soon as the conditions are appropriate, they grow. They’ll germinate at the right time, filling in patches of soil.

So as you can see, succession planting has multiple components. In The Regenerative Garden, I talk about polyculture gardens, and succession planting is a big part of how we cultivate those.

Planting vegetables ready for harvest at different times, succession planting, and sowing multiple varieties of each vegetable are all part of growing a polyculture garden.

You also see it in food forests and guilds. Some fruit and plants will mature in 5-6 years, while others might be ready a year after planting. All the plants continue to develop in not just one growing season but in a succession of time.

The Juicy Benefits of Succession Planting

Okay, but why would you want all the extra effort of planning a succession garden? Well, let me give you a firsthand example.

A few years ago, I watched my new neighbours move in across the street from me. They built a new garden full of vegetables. After a couple of months of growing, ALL those vegetables came into maturity simultaneously.

I watched as suddenly they had buckets of beets and arms of kale and more vegetables than any couple could know what to do with. Watching it was a great example of why succession planting is so valuable, so I always ensure I plant things so they mature at different times as well.

“Succession gardening will increase your garden’s productivity by maximizing the days of your growing season, even if those days are limited, and maximizing your space, even if your garden is small,” says Meg.

Rather than rushing to harvest everything in a couple of months, what if you could harvest food for a whole eight months? Or dare I say it, even the whole year long? “[This could possibly] meet your food needs, reduce seasonal overwhelm, create a more robust local food system, and thus feed you more completely,” says Meg.

And it’s not just you who will benefit. This also gives an opportunity for the local wildlife to have an extended season. You can help feed bees who wake up early and need flowers to energize themselves or birds who linger longer than normal in the fall due to rising temperatures.

How to Succession Plant

Now that you’re on board with the idea, there are many aspects to consider when succession planting. With a little planning, it’s not hard to do in any kind of space or garden.

Continuous Planting

Continuous planting is the idea that there is no planting season; it’s an ongoing part of your garden. “Grasping the notion that a garden is never fully planted is key to embracing the concept of continuous planting,” says Meg.

So while spring can be busy, so can the summer and fall for planting.

Variety

Why not grow a few varieties of the same vegetable? If you have some favourites, you can actually help to stagger their harvest times just by choosing a different variety.

“Planting a few different varieties of the same vegetable (or fruit, for that matter) with various maturation dates is the simplest way to implement staggered succession planting,” says Meg.

Tomatoes are a great example of this. From cherry to beef steak, you can extend the harvesting time by a month or more just by planting a few varieties rather than focusing your efforts on one.

Blocking

Blocking is typically seen in large-scale agriculture. Think of neat and tidy rows of crops and vegetables. This can actually help maximize space and keep track of all your harvests.

Endurance

I don’t think endurance gets spoken of enough, and I love that Meg points it out as an integral part of succession planting. As she says, “Seed starting is a marathon, not a sprint.”

You want to plan so your plants grow and produce for as long as possible, especially if you live in a place with a shorter growing season. So plan ahead, and ensure you and your plants can keep up with the planting.

Zone Bending

Zones can be a useful tool to help us determine what can grow, but we all have unique microclimates that can make it harder to predict exactly how things will go when you plant them.

Frost dates are very irregular, especially with changing climates. But you can use frost protectors, greenhouses, and even grow lights to help begin your season early and extend it late.

Interplanting

Interplanting is a big one when it comes to succession planting. “This means growing more than one type of vegetable or flower simultaneously in the same proximity,” says Meg. “Also called intercropping, and sometimes referred to as companion planting, this mingling of more than one type of plant in a space creates a living mosaic—quite literally a garden salad.”

Not only does this maximize space, but it can allow plants to help each other. One tall plant may provide shade for a lower plant, or one flower may prevent pests from feasting on another plant. It also can stop weeds from growing by taking up any empty space.

Staggering Harvest

This is the one that succession planting is known for. This is where you make sure that not everything harvests at the same time. For example, you will want to ensure that not all your tomato plants need harvesting at once but also that other plants in the garden aren’t also reaching maturity at the same time.

Meg notes, “Considering the maturation rates of plants paired together is part of the equation, as well as ensuring appropriate light levels remain throughout the duration of each plant’s lifecycle.” In other words, ensure the plants get the right conditions to harvest as planned.

Vertical Gardening

Vertical gardening is a great way to make use of small space. It was how I managed to grow some vegetables in the small sliver of sun my old garden used to have.

“Take a look at natural landscapes, and you’ll quickly notice vines ascending trees, shrubs interluding in opportune gaps in otherwise dense forests, and other plants growing upward for sunlight in creative ways,” says Meg.

Grow vertical plants like tomatoes and vines like cucumbers or beans. Also, use space upwards and get creative with your growing space.

Edible Perennials

If you want to have lots of edible food, don’t discount the value of perennials. Not only will this lower the amount of maintenance you need to put in each year, but it will also help foster a more resilient garden. Plant fruit trees, native edible trees and shrubs, berries, and perennial vegetables.

What Crops Are Good for Succession Planting?

Luckily, you can apply succession planting to most of your favourite vegetables and edible plants. As long as it doesn’t have a long and set growing period (like garlic, for example) you can probably plant to succession plant with most of your edible plants.

Meg’s a succession planning pro, and here’s a handy succession planting chart based on her recommendations. Utilize these early start times, and continue planting routinely until the last planting date.

*With protection is any kind of frost protection, such as cold frames or tunnel hoops. Keep protected until after the last frost.

**Soil should reach a minimum temperature of 50°F/10°C at 6 inches down before planting outside.

Free Printable Succession Planting Chart

If you’re ready to plan your succession garden, download my free succession planting chart printable! It includes a print-friendly version of the chart above, as well as a succession planting worksheet you can use to fill out and plan your own veggie garden.

Download the Free Succussion Planting Chart Here

Frequently Asked Questions About Succession Planting

Win a Copy of Plant Grow Harvest Repeat!

Want a copy of Plant Grow Harvest Repeat? I’m giving away one copy of Meg’s book, along with my book, The Regenerative Garden, to one lucky Garden Therapy winner.

You can enter one of 3 ways. Enter on all three platforms to increase your chances of winning!

• Leaving a comment on the blog.
• Dropping a comment on this Instagram post.
• Commenting on this Facebook post.

This contest is open to those in the continental USA online. The contest closes on May 4, 2023, where I will use a random number generator to select the winner.

More Gardening Ideas

Collaborative post

Planning a road trip in the UK can be an exciting and rewarding experience. Taking a road trip allows you to explore the countryside and experience unique culture, cuisine, and history. With its diverse scenery and remarkable cities, the UK is the perfect place for a memorable road trip.

Whether traveling solo, with family, or with friends, you will need to dedicate some time to preparation and organisation. When planning a road trip in the UK, it is crucial to decide on route planners UK to help you create the perfect trip itinerary, research the attractions and destinations along the way, and consider the cost and budget. 

With the right preparation and research, you can ensure your road trip is a safe and enjoyable adventure.

Choose your destination

Your first job is to decide where you want to go and what you want to see. Consider how much time you have, and how far you are willing to travel.

Make sure to research the area you plan to visit, covering attractions, accommodation, and places to eat.

If you’re short on time, it’s a good idea to pick a destination close enough to see in a few days, or plan a route that takes you to multiple places. You could also plan a longer trip that takes you through different regions of the UK.

Book your accommodation

Booking accommodation is an essential part of planning a road trip in the UK. There are many different types of accommodation, including hotels, bed and breakfasts, and camping. Hotels are a popular option available in all price ranges, from budget to luxury. Bed and breakfasts offer a more homely and personalised experience, while camping is a more adventurous option. 

When booking accommodation, consider the cost, location, amenities, and reviews. Comparing different accommodation options can help you find the best deal that suits all members of your party.

Plan your route

Map out the best route to get to your destination, taking into account traffic, roadworks, and any detours you might want to make. Think also about the needs of the people in your party; for example, is the fastest route the best option, or do you need a route that has plenty of rest stops or places for kids to stretch their legs.

If you’ve got time, taking a scenic detour to explore the area and experience some of the local attractions is always a nice option and can make the journey part of the overall fun.

Have fun!

Going on a road trip is a great way to explore the United Kingdom. From stunning views of rolling hills and moors to quaint villages and historic castles, the UK has much to offer. 

Enjoy the journey and all the sights along the way. And remember to take plenty of photos!

Cole writes:

Hey David!

I was checking out your YouTube channel and blog while studying yams as a potential perennial food source in my permaculture food forest. I’m primarily interested in the lesser yam because of its thin skin, easy harvesting size, and it seems like the best potato alternative out there.

I was wondering:

• How do the lesser grow in zone 8b (I think that’s your zone). I’m also in 8b in Oregon and have read mixed things. Does it need a special microclimate or especially heavy mulch?
• Do you know where to get some starts/bubils? I ordered some on eBay but it was the only spot I could find them. I’m looking for a backup in case they end up being bogus. I’d also be interested in purchasing some from you if you sell them 😊
• Do you find the lesser yam to have the same sliminess as the greater yam varieties?
• How would you say they compare to Sunchokes, if you’ve eaten those?

Thanks for taking the time to document these amazing tubers!

Thanks,

Cole

Thanks for writing, Cole.

The “lesser yam,” AKA Dioscorea esculenta, is rare in the states. Josh Jamison at Cody Cove Farm mentioned having grown some at H.E.A.R.T., but they were unfortunately bitter.

We had them in the West Indies and they were not bitter. They were easy to grow, though prickly, and would make pleasant clusters of tubers.

There, they were called “Fancy Yam.” Here’s my friend Mike showing some he grew:

We later planted those roots and grew our own.

Now, let’s get to Cole’s questions.

1. I don’t know how they’ll do in zone 8b, or in any zone outside of the tropics. We grew them in the West Indies, but have not been able to find them again here, and importing them is not easy to do (legally). Unfortunately, I have no data.
2. Ditto. No idea where to get them here, and I don’t have any.
3. None of the yams I’ve tried have been slimy once cooked. The lesser yam would simply melt away if overcooked, falling into starch in the pot. You had to cook them very fast or there would be nothing to eat. Steaming was recommended by locals. And they were not slimy.
4. They are better than sunchokes. Sunchokes taste rather like sweet, crispy, bland carrots. And then they destroy your digestion. They’re just not a good human food – they’re much better for pigs. Feed the pigs the sunchokes, then eat the pigs. Lesser yams, on the other hand, are soft and delicate, with a pleasant sweetness, and digest quite well. Much better for us to eat.

If anyone does come up with a source for D. esculenta in the states, please let us know. We’d be happy to try growing it here in Lower Alabama. The vines are much shorter and easier to trellis than D. alata. Grenadians trellised them on sticks hammered into the ground, and you would see little patches of them here and there in the mountains. At the time of our stay, they were becoming rare, however. Many farmers preferred the Lisbon yam as a crop, perhaps because of its size and its tougher skin, which made it much better for market sales.

It should be tested here!

Finally, here is a post I wrote with more info on Grenadian yam varieties. 

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It’s important to understand that if your dog is leaving craters all over your yard, it’s unlikely that they are doing it out of spite or a desire to damage your landscaping; rather, they are probably doing it because they are looking for fun, attention, comfort, escape, prey, or protection.

Entertainment

Dogs dig for a variety of reasons, therefore it’s important to attempt and pinpoint the actual cause in order to determine the most effective way to stop a dog from digging. Spending time with your pet and getting to know them well will be quite beneficial when attempting to break negative habits.

When dogs discover that soil and roots “play back,” they may dig as a form of amusement. Your dog might be digging to amuse himself if:

• They spend a lot of time alone in the yard without the company of their human family.
• Their surroundings are fairly barren and devoid of toys and playmates.
• They lack other ways to release their energy because they are young animals or adolescents.
• They are an earth-digging breed of terrier or another dog.
• They are an energetic breed that requires job to be happy.
• They’ve recently seen you in the yard or gardening.

By using these tips to constructively discourage your dog’s digging tendency, you can safeguard your landscaping from their inquisitiveness.

Cover The Freshly Tilled Soil

The last thing you want is to discover the work of passion torn to shreds after spending countless hours tilling, mulching, and sowing your garden. Cover the ground surrounding the plants in your garden with bark chips, gravel, or pavers to alter the texture of the soil and make digging through it less enticing.

Create A Doggy Play Area

Set up an appropriate digging area to divert your dog’s behavior to a more suitable area of the yard so that your plants and the garden are safe. In the yard, make a sizable, shallow pit, and fill it with sand. By hiding your dog’s favorite chews and toys in the digging area for them to find, you can make it more appealing to them.

Fence Off The Garden

Dogs enjoy digging over recently tilled soil. Use garden fencing to enclose a spot where your dog frequently digs. A small barricade may be sufficient to deter your dogs. A wire mesh fence secured to steel poles and buried up to a foot underground would be a straightforward option.

Sprinkle Spices

To keep dogs away from the flowerbeds, sprinkle red pepper flakes or mustard powder around them. While your plants’ growth won’t be hampered by this, your pet’s desire to dig up that area will be reduced.

Spray Unpleasant Odors

Spray plants with bitter apple bitter or white vinegar to keep dogs from eating your vegetable garden. As an alternative, you can use marigolds to screen your garden from dogs as well as other pests like aphids, squash bugs, and Mexican bean beetles.

As spring approaches, now is the ideal time to try out these simple strategies to stop your dog from digging so that your entire family may enjoy the backyard together.

Should You Scold A Dog For Digging?

Any form of digging your dog engages in may be addressed, and it’s always a good idea to ask your veterinarian or a professional behaviorist for assistance so you can better understand your dog’s behavior.

Most importantly, you must refrain from reprimanding or punishing a dog for digging and instead focus on rewarding good behavior. Your dog might not comprehend why he’s being punished because digging frequently takes place hours before you discover the resulting proof.

After the fact scolding and disciplining a dog is unlikely to stop the behavior and will instead frighten or upset your dog. Instead, make adjustments to your dog’s environment and try to understand what is motivating them to dig. This will stop them from doing all of that pointless digging.

How To Stop A Dog Digging

Here are a few strategies that can help entirely stop your dog’s digging behavior if you decide it’s time to take action:

1. Remove Sources Of Stress

It’s important to try to identify the source of your dog’s fears if they are causing them to dig because they are stressed or feel threatened. This can occasionally be an unavoidable event like moving house because animals frequently experience stress when their surroundings abruptly changes.

Spending lots of time with your pet and creating a “safe” space in the new home can both help to smooth the transition in this situation. It will be easier on them if their sleeping area is recreated in a spot that is as comparable as feasible.

In order to stop a dog from digging, start by observing any alterations to their environment or routine.

2. Exercise

Make sure that your dog gets the recommended amount of daily exercise for their breed. Different dog breeds require varying degrees of daily activity, so a little dog doesn’t necessarily need less exercise!

Every day, your dog needs to spend at least 30 minutes outdoors. Increasing their amount of exercise may enable them to expend the additional energy required to dig holes in your garden.

3. Mental Stimulation

Dogs require just as much mental stimulation as they do physical activity, so if your dog is left feeling bored all day, it may be the cause of their digging.

The best way to prevent a dog from digging due to a lack of mental stimulation is to spend more time with your pet doing activities you both find enjoyable. walking, playing fetch, and other dog games. Adding more dog toys to your pet’s area will help give them the necessary stimulation they need when left alone. Obstacle courses and dog food toys are two more entertaining ways to increase their everyday stimulation. Find out what to play with your dog that will stimulate their minds.

4. The Pest Problem

It is easy to stop a dog from digging up your yard or house while it is looking for pests: Eliminate the pest issue!

Find humane methods of capturing the pests that are an issue for you, or engage professionals to do it. Always use caution when applying pesticides of any kind to a pest issue because they might be harmful to your dog.

5. Provide Shelter And Shade

Despite coming from the wild, dogs are accustomed to modern luxuries now. If you want to leave your dog outside for an extended amount of time, make sure they have access to cover during the winter and shade during the summer. Additionally, make sure they always have access to fresh water by finding a “untippable” dog bowl.

6. How To Stop A Dog From Digging Under A Fence

The desire to run away is one of the most typical dog digging offenses. You can discourage your pet from digging around the fence by making it more difficult for them to do so. Try half-burying rocks along the fence’s edge.

If your dog still digs as a habit, you might need to set up a “digging zone” where they can indulge this urge. Praise your dog for digging in a specific area of your garden where you don’t mind it being disturbed.

FAQs

Is My Dog’S Digging Bad?

Digging does not necessarily indicate a terrible dog. More so, it’s a poor habit. The majority of people prefer to have a yard that doesn’t resemble a battleground. If this describes you, your dog’s digging is acceptable. Simply put, it’s undesirable.

Does Vinegar Stop Dogs From Digging?

Some dog breeds dislike the smell of vinegar and will stay away from places where it is overpowering. Spray a 1:1 solution of vinegar and water in your dog’s favorite digging areas. You should be aware that not all dogs will respond well to this method of preventing digging.

Do Dogs Grow Out Of Digging?

Most puppies enjoy digging. However, provided your dog isn’t a digger breed like those mentioned above, it should become less inclined to dig with the right training. If your dog digs anyhow, there are ways to reduce and even stop it.

Can I Hire A Professional Dog Trainer To Help Stop My Dog From Digging Up The Garden?

Yes, if you are having trouble getting your dog to stop digging up the garden, hiring a professional dog trainer may be a good alternative. To address your dog’s particular behavior, a trainer can offer tailored guidance and training methods.

How Can I Provide My Dog With An Alternative Place To Dig?

By making a pit filled with sand or soft soil, you can give your dog a different spot to dig. By burying toys or treats and praising your dog for digging in the designated area, you can encourage your dog to do so.

Is It Possible To Completely Stop A Dog From Digging Up A Garden?

While it might be difficult to totally stop a dog from digging up your garden, you can lessen or eliminate the habit with constant training, a different area for them to dig, and the use of deterrents or obstacles.

Can I Plant Certain Types Of Plants That Will Deter My Dog From Digging Up The Garden?

Yes, some plants, such as those with potent fragrances like lavender, rue, or marigolds, or those with spiky foliage like holly or roses, may discourage dogs from digging up the garden.

How Long Does It Typically Take To Train A Dog Not To Dig Up The Garden?

Depending on the dog and the training techniques employed, it can take a different amount of time to train a dog not to dig up the garden. To see noticeable behavioral improvements, consistent training may be required for a few weeks or even several months.

Is There A Particular Breed Of Dog That Has A Higher Propensity To Destroy Gardens?

Breeds with a reputation for digging, including terriers, dachshunds, and beagles, may be more likely to disturb gardens. But any dog can get into the habit of digging.

Can I Use A Deterrent To Stop My Dog From Digging Up My Garden?

Yes, you can use a variety of deterrents to prevent your dog from digging up your garden, including natural ones like vinegar or citrus, as well as manufactured ones like bitter apple spray and physical ones like pebbles or chicken wire.

Is It Normal For Dogs To Dig Up Gardens?

Yes, digging up gardens is an activity that dogs naturally engage in. However, it might become an issue if it harms the garden or puts the dog or other animals in risk.

From South Carolina to Florida and throughout the Gulf Coast up to Texas, centipede grass is among the most often used warm-season grasses for lawns at private residences. The grass derives its name from the way the stolons sprout short, establish stems that resemble centipedes.

The grass is known as “the lazy man’s grass” since it requires little upkeep despite growing slowly—it takes around two years to establish a firm lawn. Compared to other warm-season turfgrasses, the hue is paler. Because it cannot sustain heavy foot traffic, centipede grass is not the ideal option for backyards with lots of activity.

Centipede Grass Basics

Although centipede grass originated in China and Southeast Asia, it has been present in the United States since 1916, when seeds were first introduced. What is referred to be a warm-season grass is 1 centipede. Accordingly, its most fruitful growing period is in the warm months of late spring through summer. Compared to many other warm-season grasses, centipede grass is more sensitive to cold. However, this perennial may weather winters year after year when grown in warm areas.

The needs of the soil and climate are what primarily limit the usage of centipede as a lawn grass. Warm winters suit Centipede’s requirements in the sandy, acidic soils of the Southeast, from the Carolinas through the Southern Coastal Plains to the Texas Gulf Coast. Winters up north are too cold for it to survive. Similar to this, the American Southwest’s soils are too acidic for Centipede grass to thrive properly.

Despite the centipede’s exceptional heat tolerance, it cannot withstand drought. That is also another reason why Centipede thrives in the Southeast and its considerable annual rainfall. Centipede has a shallower root system than most other warm-season grasses. That means maintaining higher levels of attention and irrigation during dry spells. However, as normal conditions are restored, Centipede quickly bounces back from stress.

Centipede Characteristics To Consider

Unlike warm-season Zoysia and Bermudagrass, centipede grass does not truly go dormant throughout the winter.1 Centipede may stay green all winter in regions with very mild winters. However, because it doesn’t hibernate, the winter cold can harm it. Centipedes can suffer harm when the temperature drops, and recurring injuries during the winter can be fatal.

Contrary to Bermudagrass, Centipede rarely needs dethatching. Sandy soils often don’t require aeration of the lawn either. Unlike many warm-season lawns, centipede grass does not tolerate being overseeded for winter color. Competition from other plants may undermine Centipede’s root structure and result in the failure of the grass.

Among common warm-season lawn grasses, centipede has the slowest rate of growth. Stolons, which are creeping above-ground stems, are used to propagate it. Centipede gradually grows into a thick lawn, but it recovers slowly from heavy traffic and does not withstand it well. It is less salt tolerant than Bermudagrass but more shade tolerant.

Centipede seed performance depends on the right kind of soil preparation and planting circumstances. A natural mulch component is part of Pennington Centipede Grass Seed and Mulch, which enhances spreadability and promotes germination by holding onto moisture. These advantages are combined with TifBlair, a Centipede variety with greater cold tolerance, in Pennington TifBlair Centipede Grass Seed and Mulch.

Centipede Grass Care

As centipede grass grows slowly, it’s important to keep weeds in check. Centipede grass is susceptible to some herbicides, so before using one, make sure it may be used on it by carefully reading the label.

It is advised to start with a mowing height of two inches for established centipede grass in the spring and progressively lower the mowing height in small increments each time you mow to a final mowing height of 1.5 to 1 inch. Check the lawn after lowering the mowing height. Reset it to the original height if it appears bare or scalped.

Increase the mowing height by 1/4 to 1/2 inch to protect the grass during the hot summer and as the weather turns cooler in the fall.

When the thatch is more than 14 inch thick, dethatch your centipede lawn.

For light centipede grass to grow into a robust lawn, it needs complete sunlight. In the shade, it does not thrive.

Ideal soil is sandy, somewhat acidic soil. Before you plant centipede grass, measure the pH of your soil and add acid if necessary because the grass does not thrive in high pH environments.

Although centipede grass doesn’t require very fertile soil, it does require at least six inches of topsoil to promote turf growth.

Saline soils are not suitable for centipede grass.

The arid soils in that region of the country tend to be more alkaline and deficient in iron, both of which are unsuitable conditions for centipede grass, which is why it is not grown there.

Water

Centipede grass thrives in climates with less than 40 inches of annual precipitation, but during periods of drought, it can display symptoms of moisture stress, such as withering and discolouration. It needs to be watered to a depth of four to six inches when irrigation is used. Light, superficial irrigation will simply promote unwelcome shallow root development. You will need to water more regularly if your soil is sandy.

Temperature And Humidity

The right climate is necessary for centipede grass. It cannot tolerate the cold.

The grass will typically turn brown when the temperatures decrease in the fall. It returns to green whenever the weather warms up in the spring or after a prolonged warm spell in the winter. Hard freezes, though, particularly if they happen frequently, can cause damage, which shows up as dead turf patches in the spring.

Fertilizer

When compared to most other turfgrasses, centipede grass requires less fertilizer. Giving it more fertilizer than it requires can have a negative impact by making the turf more vulnerable to cold damage. When the grass is dark green instead of its normal medium to light green tint, that is one indication that overfertilization has taken place.

In most cases, one pound of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet per year is adequate. This total should ideally be split evenly across two to three fertilizations, with the first one taking place in the spring and the second and third in the summer.

Growing Centipede Grass from Seed Centipede grass can be planted as sod, plugs, or sprigs or grown from seed.

Centipede grass should be sown in May or June since the later you sow it, the more watering it will require throughout the summer and the more prone it will be to cold harm. This is due to the fact that when the temperatures drop in the fall, the grass is not yet well-established.

Per 1,000 square feet, sow 1/4 to 1/3 of a pound of seeds. Roll the soil with a lawn roller if at all possible. Follow the guidelines for sowing a grass from seed, giving it only a moderate watering and maintaining moisture. After sowing, germination takes place 14 to 28 days later.

Overwintering

There are a few things you should do to keep your centipede grass even if wintertime maintenance is low. If there hasn’t been any rain for a few weeks, make sure to water your lawn to prevent it from drying out. Before the first frost, treat any weeds, fertilize, and cut the grass to a height of 2 inches. Throughout the winter, keep the height at 2 inches.

Common Pests & Plant Diseases

Large patch, commonly known as brown patch, is the most typical problem. It is a fungal disease that develops gradually but can kill up to 20 feet of grass at a time. Too much nitrogen fertilizer, too much water, cool weather in the fall, winter, or spring, soil temperatures between 40 and 70 degrees F, a thatch layer of more than 12 inch, and inadequate drainage are just a few of the causes. Large patches can be treated with specialized fungicides, but it’s important to apply them in the fall when it’s below 70 degrees F.

Centipede grass decline can impact established older turf. Patches of grass that don’t grow green in the spring and finally die are its symptoms. A soil pH above 6.0, an excess of nitrogen fertilizer, a lack of dethatching, and drought stress are the causes of the disease.

Both of these diseases can be prevented and managed with proper grass maintenance.

How To Make Centipede Grass Spread

Stolons, which are above-ground runners or stems that produce new blades and roots, are how centipede grass spreads. You can gather the cut stolons as you edge your grass. Put some soil over them and place them where you’d like additional grass to grow. Let the blades protrude so they can take in the sunlight. Your lawn will thicken and spread as a result of the stolons’ sprouting.

Using the plug technique described above is another approach to spread centipede grass. You can remove plugs from your lawn’s healthy portions and place them in the sparse spots. Just make sure to adhere to the rest of the irrigation and tilling instructions.

To make your lawn thicker, you can overseed it. Since seeds only germinate in mild temperatures, avoid overseeding in the winter.

Centipede Grass Pests And Diseases

Although a centipede grass lawn requires less upkeep, there are a few things to be aware of:

Brown patch: The Rhizoctonia solani fungus spreads brown and sparse patches of grass across the lawn. When it’s hot and rainy, the effect is stronger. Brown patch can be effectively treated by reducing shade and using fertilizer that is high in nitrogen.
Dollar spot: Sclerotinia homeocarpa is a fungus that forms tiny, brown patches that resemble sand dollars. You can use neem oil, a natural fungicide, to eradicate the dollar spot.
Fairy rings: A variety of fungi can produce little, dark-brown crescents that eventually expand to enormous sizes.
Nematodes: The color of the lawn changes from green to yellow as a result of these microscopic pests feeding on the centipede grass root systems. Wormwood is a plant that naturally eradicates nematodes. To help get rid of nematodes naturally, tear up some wormwood leaves, till the soil, add the leaves, and water.

Mole crickets, grubs, spittlebugs, ground pearls, and chinch bugs are some other pests. The trickiest of these to treat are ground pearls. If you discover ground pearls under your centipede grass, you might need to transfer to a tougher variety of grass or even switch to shrubs and trees.

Centipede Grass Decline

Brown spots that appear in the early spring are referred to be centipede grass decline. It’s a widespread issue, and the patches frequently develop as a result of overfertilization. It is essential that you avoid overfertilizing centipede grass.

The plant sends out additional stolons above the earth in response to excessive fertilizing. Your lawn depends on strong stolons, yet they are extremely delicate. Your grass will experience temperature changes in the fall and winter if there are too many exposed stolons.

Planting Centipede Grass Plugs

Centipede grass plugs can be laid down if you don’t want to use seed or sod. To begin, till the yard area where you intend to put the grass plugs and apply an additional layer of fertilizer. Get rid of any past grass growth there. The centipede grass plugs should then be installed using a sod plug drill bit. From each position, place the plugs about 1 foot apart.

Water the grass plugs thoroughly for 3–4 weeks, or until they are about 2 inches tall, as with the other installation techniques.

How Long Does It Take Centipede Grass To Grow?

If you plant centipede grass in your yard, don’t worry if it doesn’t germinate and begin to grow right away. Centipede grass grows slowly and can take two to four weeks to adequately germinate. You must provide it with enough water throughout this time for it to grow healthily.

Centipede grass growth is highly dependent on the condition of the soil. Along with appropriate fertilizer and watering, you should attempt to keep your pH at an ideal 5.5. A soil testing kit that you can purchase from a nearby hardware store will allow you to check the acidity levels of your soil.

How Should I Mow Centipede Grass?

Centipede grass should only be mowed occasionally, at most every one to 1.5 inches. The thatch layer could get excessively thick if it is left on for too long. Maintaining sharp mower blades will reduce the likelihood of pulling grass out of the ground. Additionally, you should avoid walking on your centipede grass right after seeding and mowing.

How Can You Make Centipede Grass Thicker?

Centipede grass can be thickened with proper care, but there are other ways to ensure your lawn looks fantastic as well. Making walkways or stepping stones on your lawn to reduce damage from foot traffic is one of the best methods to encourage your centipede grass to grow taller. If there are no trees on your lawn, centipede grass will also appear thicker and healthier since they deprive the grass of nutrients and water.

Planting Centipede Grass Bottom Line

A wonderful, low-maintenance, drought-tolerant grass that grows well in warm regions is centipede grass. When creating a lawn in a region with hot summers and mild winters, centipede grass is a fantastic option. However, it might not function as effectively in places with chilly winters, a lot of people walking around, or a lot of shade.

Pesticides and other chemicals have been used to treat pressure treated wood in order to stop fungi, insects, and rot from damaging the wood. The wood’s compounds may erode into the soil and then be absorbed by plants. More toxins are absorbed by root crops like potatoes and carrots than by leafy vegetables. For raised vegetable beds, pressure-treated lumber is not suggested.

What Is Treated Lumber?

Wood that has been thoroughly treated with chemical preservatives is known as treated timber. As opposed to untreated wood, these preservatives aid in extending the wood’s intended usage.

Lumber is shielded from fungi, termites, aquatic organisms, and structural breakdown by a number of preservatives.

Never utilize creosote-treated railroad ties. This wood has a dark color and a petroleum scent. Extremely harmful chemicals were utilized to cure this wood.

It might be difficult to detect if recycled wood has had preservative treatment. The color and smell of pressure-treated lumber are identical to that of untreated wood. It is advisable to utilize repurposed wood for flower-growing pots rather than vegetable ones.

Cedar is the most secure type of wood to use for vegetable container gardening. It costs a lot yet is durable and long-lasting. Other untreated hardwoods can be used to construct raised beds safely, but depending on the wood, your project will rot and warp in a few years.

Durable lumber that resembles wood is known as plastic lumber. Manufacturers employ different polymers and composites to create their products. They might or might not be safe for food.

Additional Protection For Your Plants

Planting the edible crops closer to the raised bed’s center will reduce the possibility that chemicals from the lumber will be absorbed by other plants grown in the same raised bed. The raised bed could also be lined with plastic.

Before adding soil, a strong plastic liner can be placed inside the wood frame to ensure that no toxins from the wood can leach into the soil and be absorbed by the plants.

Your plants will be protected from harsh temperatures by it as well. A nonporous plastic liner will prevent water from adequately draining out of the soil, so opt for sheet plastic or pond lining instead.

For raised beds, there are materials other than pressure-treated lumber available if you’re still concerned about the security of your plants. According to Lowe’s, untreated lumber is plant-friendly yet prone to damage from insects, fungi, and rot.

Some woods, including cedar, redwood, and some varieties of oak, are naturally resistant to rot, but they can be more expensive to purchase.

Bricks and concrete blocks are additional options, as are synthetic or composite lumber, however there hasn’t been much research on how safe these building materials are for food plants.

Do Plants Absorb The Preservative In Elevated Garden Frames Made Of Pressure-Treated Wood?

Although testing have demonstrated that the quantity of preservative leached from the more recent PT wood products is so small that it is essentially unnoticeable, it is true that plants can absorb these preservatives.

The new preservatives’ impact on lower plant life, like algae, is the main hazardous issue expressed thus far. However, most homeowners wouldn’t be affected unless they lived close to a lake.

How Safe Is Pressure Treated Lumber?

If certain aspects are taken into account, pressure-treated wood is quite safe. These consist of;

To stop the chemicals from leaking into the soil, plant the crops away from pressure-treated wood walls.

putting on a sealer to guard against CCA exposure. Oil can be used to seal things. This shields people from stains and provides protection.

Is It Safe For Growing Food?

Despite being secure, pressure-treated wood is not advised for use in gardens intended to raise food. If an impermeable liner is positioned between the wood and the soil, it can still be used.

To lessen the exposure of food crops to pressure-treated wood, the following actions are taken. Planting should be done with the crops away from the garden bed walls. By doing this, the preservative won’t seep into the soil.

The garden beds should be lined with plastic sheeting. Between the plant roots and the pressure-treated wood, they build an impermeable barrier.

Before eating, peel root vegetables for further security. This is so because plant parts other than the roots contain more copper. Copper traces are removed through peeling.

Exposure To Cca Can Be Prevented By Using A Sealer

In older decks with CCA and in newer decks with preservatives, studies have shown that the use of a penetrating oil finish can limit or even eliminate exposure.

Therefore, it is advised that an oil finish be applied as necessary to any pressure-treated surfaces that come into touch with people. Studies have shown that exterior paints and stains that are not completely absorbed into the wood do not provide the same level of protection.

At least every few years, or when water no longer beads on the wood surface, they should be recoated.

For garden frames and rough constructions, some manufacturers are adding a water repellent to the preservative, which would make the need for a sealer less critical or unnecessary. 

However, for decks exposed to abrasion and sunlight, routine sealing is still a good idea to preserve the surface.

What Is CCA – Treated Wood?

This wood preservative contains varying levels of chromium, copper, and arsenic. Timber is impregnated with CCA treated wood to shield it from microbiological and insect attacks. The treated wood acquires a greenish tinge as a result.

Conclusion

Chromium, copper, and arsenic-containing preservatives are used in CCA pressure-treated woods. They provide protection against microbiological assaults, termites, and even structural concerns.

Vegetable gardens can use pressure-treated wood as long as safety procedures are taken.

Look no further than Sky Pencil Holly if you’re searching for a plant to add height and texture to your yard. This erect, slender evergreen shrub can be utilized to make a dramatic focal point in any landscape and is ideal for small spaces. To make a unified and eye-catching arrangement, it’s crucial to pick the appropriate plants to go with Sky Pencil Holly. We’ll look at some of the ideal plants to grow alongside Sky Pencil Holly in this article.

Understanding Sky Pencil Holly

Let’s take a closer look at Sky Pencil Holly before moving on to companion plants. The thin, columnar growth form of this evergreen shrub makes it a great option for planting in small spaces or as a vertical accent. Although Sky Pencil Holly may reach heights of up to 8 feet and widths of 2 feet, it can be cut to stay at a lesser size. In addition, it requires little upkeep and is disease and pest resistant.

Companion Plants For Sky Pencil Holly

It’s important to choose companion plants for Sky Pencil Holly that will enhance its vertical, thin growth habit. The following plants work well with sky pencil holly:

1. Japanese Forest Grass

A low-growing ornamental grass called Japanese Forest Grass enhances Sky Pencil Holly’s vertical growth. Its golden-yellow foliage adds a vibrant splash of color to the yard and creates a stunning contrast with Sky Pencil Holly’s dark green foliage.

2. Dwarf Mondo Grass

Small and evergreen, dwarf mondo grass creates a dense blanket of deep green foliage. It will complement the narrow, upright growth pattern of Sky Pencil Holly, making it a wonderful choice for planting as a ground cover around the base of the tree.

3. Hakonechloa Plant

Another low-growing ornamental grass that blends well with Sky Pencil Holly is Hakonechloa. The delicate, flowing texture of its beautifully arching leaves adds a lovely contrast to Sky Pencil Holly’s hard, upright structure.

4. Boxwood Plant

A traditional evergreen shrub that goes nicely with Sky Pencil Holly is boxwood. The Sky Pencil Holly’s narrow, vertical growth is complemented by the thin, uniform texture of its leaves. Boxwood is an adaptable companion plant since it may be trimmed to preserve a particular size and shape.

5. Hosta Plant

Hosta is a perennial that does well in the shadow and goes nicely with Sky Pencil Holly. Its large, rich foliage beautifully contrasts with Sky Pencil Holly’s short, upright growth. Hosta are available in a broad range of colors and sizes, making it simple to locate a selection that will go well with your particular landscape design.

6. Coral Bells Plant

Coral Bells is a perennial that grows slowly and bears small, colorful blooms with bell-like shapes. Its vibrant foliage gives the yard a splash of color and creates a stunning contrast with the dark green foliage of Sky Pencil Holly.

7. Black-Eyed Susan Plant

A perennial that enjoys the sun and goes well with Sky Pencil Holly is Black-Eyed Susan. Its vivid, daisy-like flowers bring a splash of color to the yard and make a lovely contrast to Sky Pencil Holly’s deep green foliage.

8. Coneflower Plant

Another sun-loving perennial that blends beautifully with Sky Pencil Holly is coneflower. Its towering, spiky blooms add a vertical element to the Sky Pencil Holly’s narrow, upright growth.

9. Salvia Plant

Salvia is a perennial that prefers the sun and goes well with Sky Pencil Holly. Its towering, spiky blooms add a vertical element to the Sky Pencil Holly’s narrow, upright growth. Salvia is available in a range of hues, from dark purples to vivid pinks, making it simple to pick a kind that will go well with your particular landscape design.

10. Ornamental Onion Plant

A perennial that enjoys the sun, ornamental onions go well with sky pencil holly. Its globe-shaped blossoms provide the garden a distinctive architectural element and create a lovely contrast with Sky Pencil Holly’s upright, slender growth.

11. Astilbe Plant

Perennial astilbe, which prefers shade, goes well with sky pencil holly. The Sky Pencil Holly’s stiff, erect appearance is complemented by the gentle, flowing texture of its fluffy bloom plumes.

12. Ferns Plant

Ferns are plants that thrive in the shadow and go well with Sky Pencil Holly. The soft, flowing texture of their delicate, lacy fronds contrasts with the hard, upright structure of Sky Pencil Holly. Finding a choice of ferns that will go well with your particular landscape design is simple because they come in a wide range of sizes and forms.

13. Hydrangea Plant

Sky Pencil Holly and Hydrangea are complementary plants because they both prefer shade. Large, vibrant blossoms give a splash of color to the yard and make a stunning contrast to Sky Pencil Holly’s dark green foliage.

14. Bleeding Heart Plant

Sky Pencil Holly goes well with the shade-loving perennial Bleeding Heart. Sky Pencil Holly’s hard, upright structure is balanced by the smooth, flowing texture of its delicate, heart-shaped blossoms.

15. Lily Of The Valley Plant

A perennial that enjoys the shadow, lily of the valley goes well with sky pencil holly. In addition to adding a lovely contrast to Sky Pencil Holly’s deep green foliage, its delicate, bell-shaped blossoms also provide the landscape a delicious scent.

Conclusion

A dramatic focal point may be made in any landscape using the adaptable Sky Pencil Holly plant. It will improve the beauty of your garden if you pair it with the appropriate companion plants to create a unified and aesthetically pleasing design. Make sure to use plants that match the thin, upright growth of Sky Pencil Holly and give a distinctive element to your landscape design, whether you decide to go with ornamental grasses, perennials, or shrubs.

FAQs

Is Sky Pencil Holly A Low-Maintenance Plant?

Yes, Sky Pencil Holly is both pest and disease resistant and requires relatively little maintenance.

Can Sky Pencil Holly Be Pruned To Maintain A Smaller Size?

Yes, you can prune Sky Pencil Holly to keep it at a lower size.

What Are Some Good Companion Plants For Sky Pencil Holly?

Sky Pencil Holly grows well with coral bells, black-eyed susans, boxwood, hosta, and Japanese forest grass.

Can Sky Pencil Holly Be Planted In Tight Spaces?

Yes, Sky Pencil Holly’s narrow, upright growth style makes it an excellent choice for planting in constrained places.

What Is The Height Of Sky Pencil Holly?

The Sky Pencil Holly can reach a height of 8 feet.

How Long Does A Sky Holly Live?

A Sky Pencil Holly lives 40 years on average. Consider this as you design your landscaping.

Clover is one of the weeds that annoys lawn lovers the most. The invasive plant with the scientific name Trifolium repens, which translates to “creeping three-leaf” in Latin, can quickly take over a portion of your yard where your lush lawn once flourished.

It might be challenging to get rid of clover once it has gotten its claws into your grass. Fortunately, there are natural ways to evict this unwanted visitor and prevent it from coming back permanently.

What Is Clover?

Known as a legume, clover is a member of the pea family. In the late 1600s, it traveled from Europe to the United States.

Clover can now be cultivated to be used as hay or forage by wildlife, or in food plots to draw in other animals like rabbits, deer, and turkey. There are more than 300 different species available.

How To Get Rid Of Clover Naturally

Because of its extensive root system, clover is challenging to eliminate. It is perfect as a grass substitute in yards with clover because the clover stays green all year in northern regions because to the strong roots. Three leaves and either pink or white blooms can be seen on a clover.

While many homeowners dislike clover on their lawns, some do. There are various ways to get rid of white clover if it is sprouting and spreading in your yard in spots.

There is good news if you want to go green: you don’t have to use harmful chemicals. There are several easy methods for eliminating clover naturally from your lawn.

Here are the best natural techniques to get rid of clover from your lawn:

Pull It Out By Hand

You can manually remove the clover from small spots. Pull the clover out, roots and all, after gently loosening the soil with a shovel. The clover will reappear if any roots are left behind.

Deprive It Of Oxygen And Sunlight

Clover can be eliminated by denying it any oxygen or sunshine. To prevent it from flying up, cover the area with plastic sheeting or a waste bag and secure the corners with rocks.

Within a few weeks, this ought to get rid of the clover. Be aware that if grass moves underneath the plastic, this method will also kill it.

Spray A Vinegar Solution

With this natural home treatment, you may make your own non-toxic weed killer.

Knock It Out With Nitrogen

In general, a fertilized lawn deters the growth of all weeds, but ensuring enough nitrogen levels will offer you a distinct advantage versus clover.

Since clover can create its own nitrogen, it has an advantage over a lawn that is deficient in nitrogen, which enables this weed to flourish.

Invest in a weed-and-feed formula high in nitrogen. If you only have a tiny quantity of clover, organic fertilizers might work, but if your lawn is overrun, use a regular fertilizer that is not slow release.

Kill It With Corn Gluten

Corn gluten meal, which is obtainable online and at your neighborhood garden center, can prevent clover development without endangering surrounding plants. It causes the soil to emit organic dipeptides that dry up clover seeds and make it more challenging for them to sprout.

For every 1,000 square feet of lawn, spread 20 pounds of corn gluten meal, give it plenty of water, and let it air dry.

One cup of vinegar, one cup of water, and one drop of dish soap should be combined.
Spray it onto any clover patches after shaking it. The dish soap will ensure that it stays while the vinegar will dry off the clover’s leaves.

To completely kill the clover, you might need to spray over a period of weeks. Unfortunately, spraying the solution carelessly could harm the grass.

Apply An Organic Herbicide

You can use A.D.I.O.S, a selective organic herbicide, to kill clover without harming nearby grass. Simply spray it on clover to weaken and kill the weed.

How To Prevent Clover In Your Lawn

There are several methods you can use to initially stop clover from appearing in your grass.

Spread Organic Fertilizer

Your lawn will be less conducive to clover if you use organic, slow-release fertilizer that is high in nitrogen. Traditional, fast-releasing fertilizer is preferred by some homeowners because it grows grass more quickly and is less expensive. On the other hand, applying organic fertilizer will result in longer-lasting, healthier growth. Cow manure, guano, blood meal, bone meal, earthworm castings, and liquid kelp are examples of common organic fertilizers.

Water Properly

One way to prevent clover is to maintain the correct moisture level. Too-wet grass is the ideal environment for the development of weed seeds, but stressed-out, thirsty grass also attracts weeds.

While the proper quantity of watering will depend on your soil and the type of grass you have, gardening experts advise monitoring your lawn rather than using an irrigation system that you set and forget about.

As a general guideline, water deeply once or twice a week. However, you should only water when the lawn appears dry or when growth appears to be stagnant.

Seed Those Bald Spots

There can be dry spots on your lawn that are even less attractive than the weeds once you’ve eliminated the clover patches. The answer is to immediately sow grass seed and cover with a thin layer of mulch.

Regularly watering the grass seed will encourage new growth, and fertilizing and mowing your lawn as directed will prevent clover from reappearing.

Mow Grass High

The optimum grass for growing clover is less than 3 inches tall. Your grass will be stressed at this height, which will facilitate clover growth. Your grass benefits from being cut high when you

What’s Causing Clover In My Lawn?

Clover may appear on your lawn for a number of causes, the majority of them are related to the soil.

Wrong Soil pH: For most lawns, a soil’s pH, or how acidic or alkaline it is, should fall between 6.0 and 7.0.

If the soil in your lawn is overly acidic, clover will grow much more readily and grass will be considerably more difficult to grow. Fortunately, you may adjust the pH by adding soil additions like lime.

Poor Nitrogen Levels: In soil with low nitrogen levels, clover grows well. While clover can receive the nitrogen it needs from the air, effectively producing its own fertilizer, grass needs nitrogen in the soil to grow well.

You may have used too much quick-acting fertilizer, which has led to low nitrogen levels in your soil.

Although they encourage quick grass growth, they may eventually cause your soil’s quality to decline. You can prevent this by switching to organic fertilizer like dung or cornmeal.

Compacted soil: Compacted soil keeps your grass from accessing the water, air, and nutrients it needs, especially nitrogen.

Fortunately, a core or spike aerator can be used to dissolve compaction.

FAQ

Read on for answers to some often asked questions concerning the three-leaf, white-flowered weed that can trample your lovely lawn.

Why Do I Have So Much Clover In My Lawn?

When the grass is not given enough care, clover takes over the lawn. Particularly, grass that doesn’t get enough water and fertilizer tends to eventually lose out to clover and other weeds.

When Should I Spray My Lawn For Clover?

While clover can be sprayed with a broadleaf herbicide at any time of the growing season, fall is the ideal time to do so.

What’S Causing Clover In My Lawn?

Usually, clover thrives in lawns that are overwatered, overfed, and mowed too short.

Use a nitrogen-rich fertilizer to maintain a healthy lawn, water only when the grass is dry, and keep the turf at 3 inches or higher to prevent clover.

What Will Kill Clover But Not Grass?

Clover and other weeds can be killed by a selective herbicide while grass is unaffected. Use non-selective herbicides sparingly because they can harm any plants they come into touch with.

Spot treating weeds rather than applying chemical weed killers widely is a good idea, even when using a selective herbicide.

Should I Get Rid Of Clover In My Lawn?

You should probably get rid of clover if your concept of a lovely lawn is an uninterrupted mat of uniform grass blades.

However, there are compelling arguments for inviting clover: In addition to attracting bees and other helpful insects, it has a pleasant perfume, tends to stay green during dry spells, and even has the ability to smother other weeds.

Why Is Clover Taking Over My Lawn?

When the weed has better growing circumstances than the grass, clover might thrive on your lawn. For instance, clover is likely to flourish in a lawn that lacks nitrogen.

Additionally, as clover is a perennial, it will probably reappear the next growing season if it is present the first.

You might be familiar with the American restaurant franchise known simply as Cheddar’s Scratch Kitchen. Cheddar’s currently has more than 170 locations throughout 28 states in the United States.

Italian food lovers frequently ask if they can use an Olive Garden gift card at Cheddar’s Scratch Kitchen because it is a subsidiary of that restaurant.

So, in this article, we’ll find out if and where you may use an Olive Garden gift card and a Darden Restaurants gift card.

By 2023, Cheddar’s Scratch Kitchen will accept Olive Garden gift cards. Olive Garden gift cards can also be used at other Darden Restaurants affiliates in addition to Cheddar’s. Olive Garden is accessible both physically and digitally. Both Olive Garden Italian Restaurant and Cheddar’s Scratch Kitchen are owned by Darden Restaurants, Inc.

However, of all the subsidiaries of Darden Restaurants, Olive Garden Italian Restaurant is one of the biggest restaurant franchises. You can spend your Olive Garden or Darden gift card at Cheddar’s Scratch Kitchen even though Darden Restaurants, Inc. is the company that owns both Cheddar’s and Olive Garden.

Olive Garden is an Italian restaurant, but Cheddar’s Scratch Kitchen is an American one; yet, you may use the same Darden gift card at both establishments.

Gift Card Denominations For Olive Garden

The denominations of Olive Garden gift cards vary, much like those from other restaurant chains.

Gift cards for Olive Garden are offered in:

Olive Garden gift card denominations are available as both physical and digital gifts. Gift cards for Olive Garden can be found at Target, Amazon, Kroger, Best Buy, and numerous online gift stores.

Can You Use An Olive Garden Gift Card At Red Lobster?

Yes, even though Darden Restaurants, Inc. no longer owns Red Lobster, you can spend an Olive Garden gift card at Red Lobster as of 2023. To purchase food at Red Lobster restaurants, use any Olive Garden gift card amount.

Red Lobster restaurant was purchased by Darden Restaurants, Inc. Darden later sold this division, though. Red Lobster was sold by Darden Restaurants, Inc. on July 28, 2014, to Golden Gate Capital, a private equity firm.

However, Red Lobster still accepts Olive Garden gift cards to pay for its meals.

Can You Use Olive Garden Gift Cards At Longhorn?

You can use your Olive Garden gift cards at LongHorn Steakhouse because Darden Restaurants, Inc. owns the restaurant. The Darden Restaurants company is still a major presence in the restaurant sector today.

LongHorn Steakhouse, which today has more than 500 locations in the US, was acquired by Darden Restaurants, Inc. in 2007. Therefore, LongHorn’s internal operations and those of Olive Garden as a subsidiary are comparable.

As a result, you can use an Olive Garden gift card to purchase anything at LongHorn Steakhouse if you have one.

How To Reload Olive Garden Gift Cards Balance

You shouldn’t discard the gift card if your Olive Garden gift card balance is low. Since the Olive Garden gift card is reloadable, you can add money to an existing Olive Garden gift card.

As you are aware, Olive Garden offers a variety of gift card options, but not all of them can be reloaded. On the Olive Garden Gift Card website, you may easily refill your gift card balance.

It will ask for your gift card number and the amount you wish to put onto your gift card when you click the “Reload Gift Card” option.

You have to confirm that you entered of the necessary information before getting the loaded balance on the gift card. Reloading an Olive Garden gift card quickly and easily is done online.

Where Can You Use A Darden Gift Card

American multi-brand restaurant operator Darden Restaurants, Inc. Darden Restaurants, Inc., the 50th largest private employer in the US, runs more than 1,850 restaurants around the country.

The restaurants that accept Darden gift cards are listed below:

• Olive Garden
• LongHorn Steakhouse
• Cheddar’s Scratch Kitchen
• Yard House
• Red Lobster
• The Capital Grille
• Seasons 52
• Bahama Breeze
• Eddie V’s

Bottom Line

Due to Darden Restaurants’ ownership of Olive Garden, gift cards from that chain can be used at a variety of eateries. Olive Garden Italian Restaurant and Cheddar’s Scratch Kitchen Booth Restaurant are both owned by the same corporation, thus you may use an Olive Garden gift card at Cheddar’s.

Gift certificates from Olive Garden can be used at Darden restaurants like Yard House, The Capital Grille, Red Lobster, Cheddar’s, and LongHorn Steakhouse.

Check your Olive Garden gift card balance before using it, and if it isn’t enough to cover the purchase, reload it. Therefore, if you own an Olive Garden or Darden gift card, you can use it at a number of eateries in the United States.