Category: Home & Garden

After flowering, the interest doesn’t stop as this witch hazel relative has unique foliage, its oval leaves arrayed in gorgeous shades of burgundy, green, and purple, depending on the variety.

The flowers attract bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds but deer and other herbivores stay away.

Highly drought tolerant once established, these pretty shrubs are perfect as a stand-alone accent or topiary specimen, or they may be mass planted into hedges and privacy screens.

And despite their delicate, ephemeral quality, these shrubs are low-fuss and easily cultivated. Plus, they grow quickly as well, adding one to two feet per year.

Is your garden ready for a fast-growing, year-round ornamental with pretty fragrant flowers? Then let’s pull the thread on how to grow and care for Chinese fringe flower!

Here’s what’s coming up:

What Is Chinese Fringe Flower?

Chinese fringe flower (L. chinense) is a perennial shrub in the Hamamelidaceae family, a broadleaf evergreen that features the same tasseled flowers as its cousin, witch hazel.

With a range of flower and foliage colors, sizes, and growth habits available, this versatile shrub is densely branching and makes a welcome addition to any style of garden or landscape.

Standard varieties have an upright profile with a mounding or spreading habit. These grow six to 15 feet tall with a spread of three to 12 feet, depending on the variety.

Dwarf cultivars have a tidy, mounding form and reach three to five feet tall with a similar spread.

The outward-facing flowers have a light, lilac-like scent with narrow, twisted petals measuring one to two inches. These come in a variety of red tones including magenta pink, pale pink, raspberry, and scarlet, as well as white.

A welcome sight in late winter to early spring, flowering typically occurs in March and April, but varies depending on locale. Some varieties rebloom lightly over summer as well, sporadically producing blooms on new growth.

And the foliage is attractive too, with cultivars offering a rich palette of burgundy, chartreuse, cranberry, jade green, plum purple, and ruby leaves – often with two or three colors appearing on the same stem!

The thickly-branched and fast-growing shrubs are tolerant of pruning and sometimes shaped into attractive bonsai or topiary specimens.

Dwarf varieties have a compact size that makes them ideal for container growth.

L. chinense is hardy in USDA Zones 7 to 10 with some cultivars suitable for planting in Zone 11.

Cultivation and History

Chinese fringe flower, also known as Chinese witch hazel, loropetalum, and strap flower, is native to foothill areas of China and Japan growing along stream edges, thickets, and open woodlands.

The genus name, Loropetalum, comes from a combination of two Greek words, loron and petalon, meaning strap and petal in describing the flowers.

The species epithet, chinense, means it comes from China.

A hardwood used for firewood in mountainous regions of southern China, the flowers, leaves, and roots of loropetalum are used in traditional Chinese medicine as well.

Species plants, with white flowers and green leaves, were introduced to the US in the 1880s, but were underused.

It wasn’t until 100 years later that loropetalum became popular after pink-flowered varieties with purple leaves were introduced in the 1980s.

Popular varieties may have the forma rubrum in their taxonomy, denoting their red or pink flowering form.

Grown for its colorful flowers and dense habit, Chinese fringe flower is commonly cultivated in cottage and courtyard gardens, as a border or informal hedge, and for screening.

Propagation

Propagating cultivars from seed is not recommended because seedlings won’t grow true to the parent, exhibiting variable characteristics.

But plants can be successfully reproduced from softwood cuttings taken in mid-spring to midsummer, just as the softwood starts to harden – this allows the tender stems to firm up a bit before handling.

Use a pencil or skewer to poke evenly spaced holes in the soil for the cuttings – create three holes for a six-inch pot.

Insert cuttings and gently firm the soil around the stems to prop them up.

Cover pots with a clear dome or plastic bag, ensuring the bag doesn’t touch the cuttings – a few chopsticks or bamboo skewers inserted into the soil will keep bags from collapsing onto the foliage.

Place containers in a protected location with bright, indirect light but out of direct sunshine.

Keep the soil lightly moist but not wet during the rooting process, which takes four to six weeks.

After rooting, remove covers and move pots into a location with morning or dappled sun.

Allow plants to grow in their rooting container until planting out in fall, or continue to cultivate in pots until the following spring.

How to Grow

Chinese fringe flower does well in fertile, well-draining soil with a variety of textures including loamy, sandy, or clay, and an acidic pH of 4.5 to 6.5.

It grows in partial to full sun, with the most vibrant leaf colors in full sun – however, young plants might need light shade from intense afternoon sun.

Plant divisions or nursery stock in the cooler months of spring and fall.

Dig a hole twice the diameter and the same depth as the root ball.

To enrich the soil, amend with one to two parts compost or well-rotted manure to two to four parts garden soil.

Mix in one part grit to improve drainage if needed. Use materials such as landscape sand, pea gravel, or stone chips.

A “part” is simply a roughly equal measurement used for blending ingredients – it can be a spadeful or a wheelbarrowful, as long as each part is measured the same.

Right before planting, add in two or three tablespoons of bone meal for strong, healthy roots.

Remove plants from nursery or rooting containers. If rootbound, tease out circling roots with your fingertips.

Set the root ball in place so that the crown is even with or slightly above the soil line.

Backfill with soil and firm in place.

Space plants three to six feet apart, depending on the variety.

Water deeply, and continue to water once or twice per week until the roots are well established.

For container plants, choose planters and pots with drainage holes that are at least eight inches wider than the root ball.

Add a layer of loose drainage materials like broken pottery or pebbles to the base if desired.

Fill pots with an enriched, well-draining soil and mix in two tablespoons of bone meal.

Set plants in place with the crown slightly above the soil line. Backfill with soil and firm in place.

Water deeply, keeping the soil lightly moist until established.

Growing Tips

Easily cultivated, the following tips help to get the most from your Chinese fringe flower:

• For the most colorful foliage, plant in a location with full morning sun and light afternoon shade.
• All plant parts are used in traditional medicines and considered nontoxic for children or pets.
• Plants may develop chlorosis in alkaline soils, which causes yellowing of the leaves. To increase soil acidity, add aluminum sulfate before planting or as a side dressing.
• Before we get into pruning and maintenance, let’s have a look at some of the available options when selecting your plants.

Pruning and Maintenance

Left on their own, fringe flower shrubs have a free-flowing, graceful shape that’s hard to improve on.

But they’re also fast growing and can quickly overgrow their personal garden space.

Fortunately, they respond well to a regular light pruning to head back last year’s growth or to manage shape and size. And they also tolerate a hard pruning for use in formal hedges or topiaries.

The foliage is evergreen and attractive year-round, and many loropetalums are rebloomers with two flowering cycles.

The first cycle is an abundant flush of flowers on old wood in late winter or early spring. The second is a light or sporadic rebloom on new wood in summer and fall.

This makes spring the best time to prune, right after they’ve finished flowering, to give shrubs ample time to form new growth for reblooming in summer.

After the spring flowers fade, use clean, sharp shears to remove broken, dead, or weak branches.

To manage their size or shape, cut back stems by as much as one-third.

Shape hedges and topiaries at the same time, but don’t remove more than one-third of the overall growth at once. Instead, shape in spring after flowering then refine in fall with a lighter cut. Repeat the following year as needed.

In very dry conditions, hard to see sapsucking spider mites can be a problem as they cause loss of vigor and small yellow or beige blotches that spread, drying out leaves.

For minor infestations, use a strong stream of water from the garden hose to dislodge mites, taking care to spray the underside of leaves.

An insecticidal soap can be used for problem infestations.

Root rot can be an issue, especially in poorly drained soils, causing plants to droop, wilt, or yellow. Prevention is the best cure for root rot so ensure your plants are set in well-draining soil.

Olive gall is a bacterial infection caused by Pseudomonas savastanoi that appears as dark, rough galls of varying sizes on shoots or stems, enlarging until the stem is encircled, which causes dieback.

Cut off infected branches several inches above the gall, and safely dispose of pruned materials. Disinfect your pruners in bleach before reusing them.

Best Uses

Chinese fringe flower is a highly versatile plant that can be used in containers, and as a ground cover, shrub, or tree.

Full-sized varieties give a stunning display that’s effective as a stand-alone specimen or background element in perennial beds, and they look superb when massed into hedges or privacy screens.

Ground cover types are highly effective as a slope stabilizer on banks, hills, or inclines. And dwarf varieties make a superb selection for low barriers and borders, or in containers and patio planters.

Bambusoideae

If you could bring one plant with you to a deserted island, what would it be?

When I first considered this question some years back, I wasn’t sure. But now, my answer would definitely be bamboo.

We link to vendors to help you find relevant products. If you buy from one of our links, we may earn a commission.

It’s freakishly fast-growing, edible, and can be used to build anything I might need to survive on the island.

A boat for deep-sea fishing, a super awesome treehouse, a bo staff for self-defense… As long as I have some healthy bamboo to work with, the possibilities are endless.

But even for those living in civilization with other humans, bamboo definitely has its merits.

Along with the aforementioned qualities, it provides ornamental beauty in a variety of landscape settings, whether in a large grove or as a single containerized specimen.

These plants take some specialized know-how to grow, and their vigorous spreading power requires the utmost responsibility on the part of the gardener to keep it in check.

If you feel up to the task, this guide will definitely come in handy.

Let’s begin!

What Are Bamboo Plants?

For some of y’all, bamboo may be a plant that you know of, but that you don’t know much about.

Kinda like how I am with string theory, crème brûlée, or The Church of the Flying Spaghetti Monster. Sure, I recognize the reference, but I don’t quite understand it.

Unlike plants such as lucky bamboo and heavenly bamboo, true bamboos belong to the Bambusoideae subfamily of evergreen, woody-stemmed perennial grasses.

Containing over 100 genera and more than 1,400 species, this subfamily is huge.

And these plants can be big, too – collectively, the Bambusoideae are physically the largest members of the Poaceae, aka the grass family.

Hardy in an area ranging collectively from USDA Zones 4 to 11, species of bamboo are native to every continent except Europe and Antarctica.

They grow in all sorts of environments, from the warm and sunny tropics to temperate and snowy mountain ranges.

Members of the Bambusoideae flaunt hollow, woody, and ringed stems known as culms, which can sport a variety of colors across different species.

Depending on the species and maturity of the mother plant, individual culms can grow multiple feet within a single day, and typically reach their mature height within a single growing season.

That’s insanely fast growth you can almost see happening, no time-lapse required!

Juvenile culms grow skinny green leaves directly from culm rings, while more mature culms will usually sprout foliage from thin lateral branches. Foliage typically grows from the top half of the culms, leaving the lower woody growth exposed in an attractive, almost tree-like manner.

Over time, bamboo plants spread laterally via rhizomes, which put up new culms that are larger and thicker than the prior year’s growth. So while individual culms don’t really grow from year to year, the plant as a whole does.

The size of different species and cultivars varies. For instance, Pleioblastus distichus ‘Mini’ only reaches a foot in height, while species such as Dendrocalamus giganteus can grow over 100 feet tall!

As for their spread, bamboo plants can generally be classified as either clumping or running types.

Clumping types expand via thick pachymorph rhizomes, which only spread just a bit before putting out a new culm.

From a bird’s-eye view, clumpers end up with a circular and tightly-packed form, which tends to keep the plant somewhat within its intended planting site… at least compared to running types.

Running types put out thin leptomorph rhizomes, which can pretty much spread indefinitely before a culm emerges. As a result, runners can cover insanely large amounts of real estate – an entire grove of culms may be produced by a single specimen!

While ornamentally unimpressive, Bambusoideae flowering is rather interesting.

A few species flower annually, some bloom sporadically, but many flower gregariously, oftentimes after decades of purely vegetative growth.

With gregarious flowering, individuals of the same species distributed over a large area all flower simultaneously. After a single bout of flowering, fruiting, and setting rice-like seeds, the life cycle ends, leaving the spent bamboo plants to die en masse.

But let’s get a bit controversial and briefly discuss bamboo’s invasiveness. Or “expansiveness,” as die-hard Bambusoideae enthusiasts may interject.

Some species – particularly running types – spread rather aggressively, to the point of overtaking gardens, native plants, and uncultivated land. Much like other invasives do, no?

But bamboo is unique in that its aggressiveness is pretty much entirely confined to its root system, rather than its seeds. In most species, seeds are set very infrequently and they aren’t easily spread, so keeping these plants in-bounds is purely a battle of gardener versus rhizome.

Not to say that you should ignore the rules. If your area has listed a particular species as a noxious weed banned from planting, then by all means obey the law. “But it’s purely vegetative expansion!” won’t exactly acquit you in court or anything.

When growing bamboo, you absolutely must manage the root system lest it spread, anger your neighbors, and cause ecological problems. We cover controlling bamboo more in a separate guide. (coming soon!)

Don’t get it twisted: controlling the roots can be a herculean task. But if it’s allowed in your area and you’re responsible, then feel free to add some bamboo to your landscape, albeit with caution.

Cultivation and History

Bamboo has been used by humans for millennia: as early as 4,000 to 5,000 years ago, the plant was used in China to craft arrowheads. Ever since, these plants have been regarded as absolute botanical rock stars.

When it comes to versatile utility, few plants can rival bamboo.

Their lightweight and workable, yet super strong culms can be used as a flexible material for buildings, bridges, scaffolding, flooring, furniture, rafts, tools, weapons, crafts, musical instruments, biofuel, textiles, paper… I could go on forever.

These plants have a ridiculous amount of applications.

As a result, the growth, harvesting, trade, and utilization of Bambusoideae is a billion-dollar global industry. It provides job opportunities, positively impacts economies, and is a very affordable plant to grow and put to various uses.

Bamboo is a vital part of Asian cultures, most notably in China.

A symbol of traditional Chinese values such as honor, resolve, chastity, and modesty, these plants are depicted in many Chinese works of art and literature.

In both the past and the present, bamboo plays a large role in the daily lives of Chinese people.

Bamboo shoots are very nutritious, providing high amounts of fiber and essential nutrients.

You probably knew about pandas eating bamboo, but other animals such as mountain gorillas, African golden monkeys, and bamboo lemurs consume it as well.

Bamboo can be dried and ground into flour that’s used to make pasta and bread, or the shoots may be cooked and eaten as a vegetable. It’s even been used medicinally in treatments for diabetes and high cholesterol.

Bamboo is an excellent plant for the planet, as its fast growth rate allows it to take up large amounts of carbon dioxide while producing a ton of oxygen, acting as a carbon sink.

It can utilize wastewater, control erosion, detoxify soil, and improve soil structure. It breaks down easily and is biodegradable, making it a very “green” material for construction.

Ornamentally, the plant is used to establish beautiful scenery for ecotourism and in landscapes the world over. And who knows? Maybe it could end up in yours!

Propagation

While it’s possible to grow bamboo from seed, I wouldn’t recommend it for the average home gardener. Seed set is infrequent, and many seeds that are produced are not viable.

Propagation-wise, your best bets are taking culm cuttings, rhizome cuttings, or divisions, or transplanting a potted specimen from a nursery or plant swap.

From Culm Cuttings

Taking cuttings from culms only works with clumping types. If you have runners, taking rhizome cuttings should be your go-to method.

The best time to take culm cuttings is just before your species shoots out in spring. Choose culms that are neither too young or too old: two to three years of age is perfect.

With a sterilized and small-toothed saw, cut the culms flat just above the ground and about an inch above a node.

Trim away their lateral leafing branches just above their first nodes, and place the cut ends in water if you can’t complete the next steps right away.

Lay a culm cutting flat on its side, choose a node with a trimmed leafing branch, and cut the culm about three inches away on either side. This leaves you with about a six-inch-long culm cutting, with a trimmed leaf branch in the middle.

Repeat with your harvested culms until you have all the prepped cuttings that you desire, and continue to keep the cut ends in water until you’re ready for the next steps.

For every three cuttings you plan to propagate, loosely fill a gallon-size pot with a 50:50 mix of peat moss and perlite.

Stick the cuttings in vertically, deep enough to cover the nodes. Space them close to the container’s edges, and equidistant from each other.

Orient the cuttings so the leafing branches are all facing the center of the container. It’s alright if the branches aren’t entirely covered with potting mix.

Water in your cuttings, and keep the containers outdoors in full sun to partial shade, depending on the species.

Keep the media moist as the cuttings grow – new growth should appear in as little as six weeks. Be sure to re-pot the cuttings into larger containers if they become overcrowded.

Come fall, your cuttings should be ready to transplant!

From Rhizome Cuttings

If you’re trying to propagate a running type, then rhizome cuttings are the way to go.

Just like with culm cuttings, you’ll want to gather rhizome cuttings a bit before your particular species shoots out in spring. Towards the outer edge of a grove, select a two- to three- year-old culm, and gently loosen the soil around it to locate its rhizome.

Select a vigorous, brightly-colored stretch of rhizome and carefully sever it from the mother plant. Carefully uplift and sever about 12 to 14 inches of rhizome for every cutting you intend to propagate, ensuring that each section sports at least two healthy buds.

Keep the rhizomes moist until you’re ready to plant them. Prepare trenches of well-draining soil outdoors and plant the rhizomes horizontally two to four inches deep. Pat the soil down.

Water in the rhizomes, and keep the soil moist. Growth should occur in about four to six weeks.

Via Divisions

For containerized bamboo, dividing is the perfect propagation method.

Spread a tarp on the ground or your work surface. Prior to shooting out in spring, remove your specimen from its pot. You may have to cut said pot in order to do so, if it’s made of plastic.

Place your bamboo on the tarp, and brush away any loose soil from the rhizomes to see what you’re working with. With a sharp spade or saw, cut your specimen into two to four pieces, depending on size and the number of divisions you wish to have.

Make your cuts in between the culms at the rhizome, and do your best to avoid unnecessary root damage. Some damage will be inevitable in root-bound specimens.

Each division can be transplanted immediately into its new home, whether it’s another container or the ground!

Via Transplanting

Bamboo can really be transplanted at any time, save for during heavy frosts and freezes, or any time when the ground is frozen.

Optimally, you want to transplant after the last frost in spring but before the first frost in fall.

Transplanting bamboo is pretty simple. In your species’ preferred exposure, prepare well-draining and fertile transplant sites with a pH of 6.0 to 7.0.

Planting about three to five feet apart is ideal for a screen, but you can space them even further to emphasize each individual specimen.

Dig holes about as deep as and a bit wider than the transplants’ root systems. Lower the transplants in, fill the holes with adjacent soil, and water them in.

Make sure to keep the soil moist as they get established!

Depending on wind exposure and planting location, transplants over 15 feet tall at planting time may require staking or guying in their first year or so of growth until the roots establish and anchor the plant.

How to Grow

Since this group includes a vast number of species, the following recommendations are intentionally general.

When growing a certain variety of bamboo, it’s important to conduct some species-specific research.

Bamboo grows pretty much all over, and these plants span USDA Hardiness Zones 4 to 11.

Save for the hottest heat or the most frigid cold, your local growing environment can probably sustain at least one kind of Bambusoideae!

In general, bamboo does well with full sun exposure, but some species actually prefer partial sun, or even partial shade.

Bamboo prefers loamy soil that drains well, is amply fertile, and has a pH of 6.0 to 7.0. But as long as the drainage is adequate, other soil textures will also do the trick.

Some species can handle overwatering or underwatering better than others. But overall, bamboo grows optimally in soils that are kept moist, but not saturated.

This means deeply watering whenever the top inch of the soil feels dry, and definitely whenever leaf edges start to curl.

Fertilizer-wise, most bamboos benefit from an application in both spring and summer. As grasses, these plants will really make good use of high nitrogen fertilizers.

Osmocote Plus Fertilizer

Most fertilizers formulated for turf will get the job done. Try this 50-pound bag of slow-release 15-9-12 NPK fertilizer from Osmocote, available on Amazon.

Growing Tips

• Full sun is optimal for most species, while some like a bit of shade.
• Provide well-draining, fertile, loamy soil with a pH of 6.0 to 7.0.
• Irrigate whenever the top inch of soil dries out.

Pruning and Maintenance

Maintaining two to three inches of mulch around your plants will help with protection, insulation, and moisture conservation.

Leave healthy fallen foliage on the ground for some free mulch and organic matter, on the house!

For health and aesthetics, it’s important to get rid of old culms by cutting them down at the soil line.

Dead, damaged, and/or diseased culms should definitely be pruned whenever you notice them, while five- to seven-year-old culms can be removed prior to plants shooting out in spring for a more open appearance and improved airflow.

Running bamboo will need to be controlled and contained at all costs, and you have a few options for doing so.

You can install a root barrier by digging a three-foot trench around the border of your plantings, and then installing a 60-millimeter high density polyethylene barrier.

Arrange it so the polyethylene sticks out of the soil a few inches, since rhizomes aren’t shy about going over as well as under obstructions.

You could also dig a trench around the perimeter of the planting area that’s about a foot or two deep and wide.

This allows you to easily observe and prune any rhizomes before they grow out of bounds. If you don’t want a gaping trench in your yard, you can fill it with loose material such as straw or sand that’s easy to move for root observation.

Should your bamboo make a break for it, swiftly sever the invasive growth’s roots from the rest of the plant by establishing a new trench, or by recutting the roots in an existing one.

Keep cutting down the culms of the unwanted colony until their belowground rhizomes run out of energy and perish – this may need to be done over the course of a couple of seasons.

Species and Cultivars to Select

With so many species to choose from, almost every gardener can find some Bambusoideae that’s suitable for their landscape.

Here are three of my favorites:

Bambusa Multiplex

A clumper that hails from Asia, Bambusa multiplex exhibits thin, densely-packed, gracefully arching culms.

Reaching a height of 25 feet with a spread of six feet, this species is hardy in Zones 6 to 9, can tolerate full sun to partial shade, and is moderately salt tolerant.

B. multiplex offers many different cultivars to choose from: ‘Alphonso Karr’ flaunts yellow and green-striped culms, ‘Silverstripe’ produces leaves striped in different shades of green, and ‘Willowy’ is a gracefully-arching variety with particularly fine foliage.

‘Alphonso Karr’

‘Alphonso Karr’ is available for purchase from FastGrowingTrees.com.

Bambusa Oldhammi

For those more interested in building with bamboo than showing it off, you can count on Bambusa oldhammi to provide material for your projects!

Native to China and Taiwan and hardy in Zones 8 to 11, Oldham’s bamboo is a clumper that can grow over 50 feet tall when properly cared for.

The pale green culms grow very straight and are about three to four inches thick, making them a perfect medium for craftspeople.

Long, broad leaves grow densely between the culms, which can result in an effective, albeit narrow, screen, windbreak, and/or shade planting.

Large landscapes would make good use of a stand or colony of them!

Phyllostachys Nigra

Also known as black bamboo, Phyllostachys nigra has a very noticeable feature: black culms.

The fresh green culms of this Chinese-native running type will turn black within a year of their emergence, which contrasts beautifully with the green foliage.

Hardy in Zones 6 to 10, P. nigra can reach a mature height of 30 feet, and can pretty much spread as far as it has the room to.

It wields pest, disease, and deer resistance, along with drought tolerance.

‘Henon’ is an unusual, yet stunning cultivar with large, rough, whitish-green culms that can grow to be 65 feet tall at maturity.

Black Bamboo

To purchase a standard black bamboo plant, check out Planting Tree or FastGrowingTrees.com.

Managing Pests and Disease

To keep your specimens looking sharp, it’s important to protect them from things that could eat, infest, or infect them.

Herbivores

I’ve already mentioned a laundry list of animals that consume bamboo, such as pandas and mountain gorillas.

But unless you live in a zoo, your biggest mammalian threats will most likely be deer and rabbits.

Your adult culms should be safe – the young shoots are the most at risk.

If you really want to tighten security, some wire mesh or chicken wire positioned around each planting should keep rabbits at bay during the culms’ juvenile period.

Deer are best kept out of your landscape with deer fencing.

Insects

Insects have a nasty tendency to vector pathogens, so warding off bugs can also protect against diseases!

Aphids

Native to eastern Asia, bamboo aphids belong to the Takecallis genus. They sport rather long, dark brown antennae and have soft, green, narrow bodies.

Commonly found on and under leaves, these pests feed on foliage with their piercing-sucking mouthparts, which can lead to minor symptoms of chlorosis and stunted growth.

Additionally, aphids will excrete honeydew, which attracts other insects and can lead to black sooty mold.

Strong sprays of water will physically knock these pests off of plants, while sprays of insecticidal soap and/or horticultural oil on the foliage will smother them.

Monterey Horticultural Oil

For horticultural oil in a ready to use spray bottle or concentrated form, check out Arbico Organics.

Mealybugs

Palmicultor lumpurensis is a Malaysian-native mealybug that’s grayish-pink and covered with a fine, white, waxy coating.

Infested shoots can become weak and sickly looking, and they may be dotted with cottony webbing.

Bamboo mealybugs can cause considerable damage, especially in new shoots, and large enough populations can kill an entire plant.

Just like with aphids, P. lumpurensis and other mealybug species can be controlled with sprays of insecticidal soap or horticultural oil.

Additionally, the introduction of natural predators such as ladybugs can help keep mealybug populations down.

Scale

An armored scale species, Kuwanaspis pseudoleucaspis is among the most notable species of the pests known commonly as bamboo scale.

These are long, oyster-shaped pests – especially under their waxy covering – and large colonies of them can collect under culm and branch sheaths.

Sucking sap from infested surfaces, these pests can cause minor aesthetic and health problems for a specimen.

Horticultural oil can help, along with pyrethroid insecticides. But many gardeners do nothing in the case of minor infestations, opting to see whether the problem revolves on its own.

Spider Mites

A major affliction of bamboo in the Western world, the miniscule members of the Stigmaeopsis genus, aka bamboo spider mites, leave rounded white patches along the midrib and edges of leaves, severely reducing foliar aesthetics and health.

Bamboo spider mites can spread super easily and they are protected by their webbing. Spraying the leaves regularly with miticides or forceful jets of water should help to combat an infestation.

For those who grow bamboo for their livelihood, the only guaranteed way to eliminate these pests is with a “scorched earth” policy – removing all infested aboveground growth and burning it.

This might be worth it in the long run for keeping yields healthy and attractive, but it probably won’t be necessary for casual gardeners.

For prevention, be careful about whom you get your plants from, as pests may be carried home easily from the nursery!

Learn more about spider mites and how to control them in our guide.

Disease

As a bamboo plant parent, you’ll be hacking at culms with blades a lot. Therefore, it’s important to use sanitized tools – and soils, for that matter – to prevent disease spread.

Bamboo Mosaic Virus

Thankfully, no insect vectors are known to transmit bamboo mosaic virus, aka BaMV.

Primarily spread through mechanical means such as infected tools, the disease causes mosaic patterns of chlorosis along the leaf veins, necrotic streaks along culms, reduced vigor, aborted culms, and even the eventual death of plants.

There’s no known cure, so your only hope of halting the spread of this disease is to remove and destroy infected plants. Prevention-wise, only use clean tools and disease-free plant stock.

Leaf Spot

Caused by various pathogens such as species of Cyphellophora fungi and Pseudomonas bacteria, leaf spots exhibit themselves as rounded patches of foliar necrosis, which can grow in size as the condition progresses.

Along with looking ugly, leaf spots interfere with photosynthesis.

To manage this disease, prune infected leaves when you notice them. But to avoid the problem from the get-go, make sure to provide decent airflow and avoid sprinkler irrigation.

Stay on top of your culm pruning, too!

Root Rot

Whether the cause is Armillaria fungi or just excess water, root rot is bad news.

When the roots are necrotic and rotted out, the aboveground shoots will follow suit with weakness, wilting, and death, which isn’t a look you want for your landscape.

Infected plants should be pitched and destroyed. Too much irrigation can choke out roots and create an ideal environment for pathogens, so don’t provide excess water!

Best Uses

In the landscape, bamboo is as versatile as it is gorgeous.

Running types work great for screens, hedges, and groves, while clumping types perform well as specimens, accents, and even container plantings!

These plants convey the perfect aesthetic for zen gardens, compliment water features, provide shade, and act as a windbreak.

For those who like outdoor meditation, yoga, or tai chi, a bamboo backdrop can really add to your practice.

Quick Reference Growing Guide

Plant Type:	Woody perennial evergreen grass	Flower/Foliage Color:	Green, pink, purple, red, tan, white, yellow/green
Native to:	Africa, Asia, Australia, North America, South America	Water Needs:	Moderate
Hardiness (USDA Zones):	4-11, depending on species	Maintenance:	Moderate
Bloom Time/Season:	Varying bloom seasons and cycles	Tolerance:	Clay soils, cold, heat, moderate drought and flooding, salt (all depending on species)
Exposure:	Full sun to partial shade	Soil Type:	Fertile loam
Time to Maturity:	1 season (individual culms), 5-10 years (mature height)	Soil pH:	6.0-7.0
Spacing:	3-5 feet apart (screen), 5-20 feet (individual emphasis)	Soil Drainage:	Well-draining
Planting Depth:	Ground level or slightly below the soil line	Attracts:	Deer, rabbits
Height:	4 inches-130 feet	Uses:	Accents, construction and gardening materials, container plantings, groves, screens, specimens
Spread:	Up to 50 feet (clumpers), indefinite (runners)	Family:	Poaceae
Growth Rate:	Extremely fast	Subfamily:	Bambusoideae
Common Pests and Diseases:	Bamboo aphids, bamboo mealybugs, bamboo scale, bamboo spider mites; bamboo mosaic virus, leaf spot, root rot	Genera:	Arundinaria, Bambusa, Dendrocalamus, Fargesia, Guadua, Himalayacalamus, Phyllostachys, Pleioblastus, Sasa

Go Accrue Some Bamboo!

As long as you’re willing to put in the work to care for and control it, bamboo can make a lovely addition to the landscape or patio garden.

Otherwise, you may have the Homeowner’s Association on your back, or perhaps some angry ecologists.

Now that you’re able to grow and care for these plants, all that’s left to learn is the specifics of the kind you want to cultivate. With so many species out there, have fun choosing the best variety for you and your garden! 

Questions or remarks to share? Head on down to the comments section below and let your fingers do the talking!

Has the grass family piqued your interest? Read these grassy guides next:

Spring is a wonderful time of year to be in the garden. As the temperature starts to rise, new life emerges from the darkness of winter, and wildlife comes out from hibernation, our gardens once again become a hub of activity.

The most attractive spring gardens are home to a variety of plants, from colourful flowers to beautiful shrubs. These provide texture and height interest and make the garden an inviting place to spend time as the days gradually become filled with sunshine.

The plants you choose for your outdoor space are, of course, largely down to personal preference and the garden aesthetic you’re aiming for. However, some plants do springtime better than others. From early flowering perennials through late blooming shrubs, we’ve rounded up some of the best garden plants to help you make the most of the spring season. Find more plans online at Gardeners Dream.

The Best Spring-Flowering Plants for a Colourful Garden

One of the best things about spring is watching colour return to the garden. Whether you prefer a pastel flower display or a bold show of blooms, spring-flowering plants brighten the garden and help us leave those dreary grey winter days behind us.

Early Spring Bloomers

Snowdrops

Snowdrops are one of the first early spring flowers to emerge, often blooming as early as January. These hardy little bell-shaped flowers thrive beneath trees and taller plants and are ideal for a shaded area of the garden. Plant snowdrops in autumn, placing the bulbs in the ground before the first frost. They like well-draining soil that remains moist and doesn’t completely dry out in summer.

Winter Aconite

As its name would suggest, winter aconite is another early spring plant that often blooms from late winter. These bright yellow flowers add a vibrant burst of colour to otherwise grey gardens in early spring. The blooms look like buttercups but with a ruffle of deep green foliage underneath. Winter aconites look great planted alongside snowdrops and are a fantastic choice of spring blooms for early in the season. They flourish in full sun or partial shade in moist soil that drains freely.

Crocus

Crocuses are early bloomers that flower from late winter to mid-spring. Native to Eastern Europe, these hardy plants grow from bulbs planted the previous autumn. They are a great choice for brightening patios in containers and also grow well towards the front of borders or even naturalised in the grass. Crocuses thrive in well-draining soil and prefer a spot in full sun but will tolerate partial shade.

Daffodil

The sight of these cheery yellow flowers is a sure sign that spring has arrived. Daffodil bulbs need to be planted in autumn for a healthy show of trumpet-shaped flowers the following spring. They grow well in pots, containers, flower beds and even beneath the grass. Daffodils thrive in full sun but cope well with partial shade. They prefer moist soil that is well drained and don’t do well in waterlogged ground.

Pansy

Grown from seeds or bought ready to transplant into the garden, pansies are beautiful spring flowers that make excellent bedding plants but are also among the best spring flowers for containers and hanging baskets. Pansies come in a wide range of colours, including blue, purple, pink, red, white and yellow, and create an impressive show of flowers. They thrive in moist but well-draining soil and prefer a sheltered spot in direct sunlight or part shade.

Dwarf Iris

With gorgeous blue-purple petals and a warm yellow centre, these spring flowers bloom early in the season and grow to around 15cm tall. The blooms are fragrant and attract bees, butterflies and other beneficial insects to the garden. Dwarf irises love a south-facing spot in full sun and grow well in most soil types, although they prefer slightly alkaline soil. These early spring bloomers are perfect for planting in window boxes, pots, rock gardens and flowerbeds and look fabulous under-planted around shrubs.

Witch Hazel

If you’re looking for something a bit bigger to brighten up the garden in early spring, you can’t go far wrong with witch hazel. Large yellow flowers appear on this deciduous shrub from late winter into early spring. The fragrant flowers are a valuable nectar source for early spring pollinators. And as a bonus, witch hazel provides awesome autumn colour as the green leaves turn striking shades of red, orange and gold.

Forsythia

Coming to life around the same time as many spring flowering bulbs, forsythia is a deciduous shrub with bright yellow flowers appearing on bare arching branches even before the toothed mid-green foliage comes in. The perfect spring flowering plants for the back of borders, forsythias are fast-growing and easy to care for. They tolerate most soil types as long as the ground isn’t waterlogged and like full sun or part shade. While forsythia is a hardy plant that can survive winters in the UK, it will produce fewer flowers when planted in a shady area of the garden.

Winter Jasmine

Blossoming vivid yellow star-shaped flowers on bare stems from late January to March, winter jasmine is a great choice of shrub for vibrant colour early in the year. Winter jasmine has a climbing habit and can be supported to grow up trellises or left to spill over the top of a low wall. Without pruning, this reliable shrub can reach up to 10 feet tall and makes an attractive feature towards the back of borders or grown against a south-facing wall. Grow winter jasmine in full sun or light shade in well-drained soil.

Late Spring Colour

Tulip

Tulips flower from mid-spring and come in a rainbow of hues, making them one of the best spring flowers for garden colour. As with other spring flowering bulbs, plant tulips in autumn so they have plenty of time to establish themselves before emerging from the soil in the new year. Tulips like to be planted in well-drained soil and prefer a sheltered spot where the cupped flowers can soak up the sun.

Lily of the Valley

Lily of the Valley is a slow growing perennial with arching stems of rich green bearing small white bell-shaped flowers from April-May. It prefers to be planted in moist, well-drained soil and thrives in full or partial shade. Once established, lily of the valley is a low-maintenance plant that is easy to care for and provides excellent ground cover around shrubs. Fun fact: lily of the valley was a favourite flower of the late Queen Elizabeth II.

Sweet Alyssum

Sweetly scented and irresistible to pollinators, planting sweet alyssum will attract butterflies and bees to the garden. This low-growing annual boasts masses of tiny, brightly coloured flowers in shades of white, pink or purple, blooming from late spring to early summer. It prefers cooler climates and thrives in a spot with plenty of natural sunlight. A mounding or trailing habit makes these spring flowers ideal for hanging baskets, window boxes, beds and borders.

Grape Hyacinth

The violet-blue hues of these spring-blooming flowers make them a popular addition to any garden. Flowering from April to May, grape hyacinths are an early source of nectar for pollinators and are particularly attractive to bees. These spring blooms spread more easily than other spring flowers, so it’s best to grow them in containers or deadhead spent blooms before they set seed. Grow grape hyacinth in moist but well-drained soil in full sun or partial shade.

Primrose

Primroses are versatile spring flowers that grow well in both flower beds and containers. They come in a rainbow of vibrant colours and produce an eye-catching show of spring flowers between March and May. Primroses don’t tolerate direct sunlight well and prefer a spot in the afternoon shade. They are hardy plants that are easy to grow and come back year after year in the right conditions.

Allium

Ornamental alliums are attractive spring flowers with ball-shaped blooms on top of tall, erect stems. They are usually purple, white or pink and bloom from May into early summer. They make excellent cut flowers for indoor displays and are long-lasting as dried flowers. Even when the flowers are spent, the seed heads are attractive and can be left to provide interest in autumn and winter. Plant alliums in well-drained soil in full sun or part shade.

Japanese Quince

This fast-growing hardy shrub produces cup-shaped flowers in various shades of red and pink from March through May. The glossy leaves feature touches of red in spring and turn a rich dark green as they mature. Also known as flowering quince, these spring flowers are easy to grow and cover the whole shrub, from top to bottom. Japanese quince grows best in well-drained soil and likes a spot in full sun or partial shade.

Foxglove

Flowering from late spring and into early summer, foxgloves are the ideal spring blooms for a woodland garden and bridge the weeks between spring and summer. They grow well in most soil types and while they prefer a spot in part shade, they tolerate full sun. The tubular-shaped spring flowers, usually in shades of pink-purple, grow from tall stems and feature a dappled effect on the inside. Deadheading spent flowers encourages a second bloom of late spring flowers. Alternatively, the spent flowers can be left to seed and produce another show to decorate next year’s spring garden.

The choice of spring flowers available is amazing. From semi-evergreen shrubs that bloom to charming annuals with delicate flower shapes, there is something for every spring garden. As the nights begin to draw out and the weather starts to improve, your garden can already be a riot of colour with plenty of spring flowers to welcome in the new season.

On Monday and Tuesday, we had the Singleton family from Scrubland Farmz visiting from N/C Florida.

Sam brought me some plants for the Alabama Food Forests nursery, and also showed me how he propagates clumping bamboo.

This video shows one method:

The method Sam used was similar, except instead of putting the cuttings vertically, he lays them horizontally and buries them about an inch deep. He’s told me that the nodes usually root well that way and they don’t dry out as much.

We stuck a bunch of Bambusa multiplex cuttings in a bed of sand in the nursery areas. I’m looking forward to seeing them shoot up.

Here’s a follow-up video from Bamboo Sourcery showing the results of their propagation:

Even though I’ve done a lot of plant propagation, there’s always more to learn. And there’s always someone that has figured out a new and interesting method.

Note that this method of bamboo propagation does not work on running bamboo varieties; only on clumping.

We just cut sections of cane with about 3-4″ on either side of a single node, then buried those pieces in sand.

Keeping my fingers crossed!

Share this post!

Anyone can grow food in the garden, patio, or balcony by using containers. You’d be surprised how much you can eat from a container garden or two. They’re great starting points for new gardeners or those with limited space. Here are some tried and true container garden ideas that will grow plenty of food this season.

When I first started food gardening, I didn’t have a ton of in-ground space or raised beds. This meant I grew tons of vegetables in containers and saw that you could grow pretty much anything you wanted in a container with a little ingenuity.

Sometimes, it made sense, like tumbler tomatoes. Sometimes, I was growing weirder things like fennel bulbs. I grew anything I could get my hands on!

When my book publisher reached out to me to ask if I had any photos of growing food in containers, I replied, I’ve got hundreds. What do you want?

This led me to have almost 15 photos inside Pamela Farley’s new book, The First-Time Gardener: Container Food Gardening.

When I saw the book, I was amazed at how much information was inside. Pamela did an amazing job breaking it all down so that anyone could grow edible food regardless of their type of garden.

This is a big reason I love working with my publisher, as they make thorough books by skilled authors. I’m thrilled to be part of such a great team!

Today, I’m sharing some of Pamela’s container garden ideas for growing food. These are some stellar plant combinations that grow well together and have similar needs for easy growing.

This post will cover…

Reprinted with permission from The First-Time Gardener: Container Food Gardening : All the know-how you need to grow veggies, fruits, herbs, and other edible plants in pots by Pamela Farley © 2023. Published by Cool Springs Press. Photography courtesy of Zoe Naylor where noted.

Expert Tips for Container Gardens

• The container choice is just as important as the plant choice. Some containers hold moisture better than others, while others are better suited for drought-tolerant plants.
• Focus on your container’s microclimate. In a container, the soil warms up faster, dries out quicker, and has limited root potential, which can lead to your plant fruiting earlier than average.
• Look for plants with the words “compact” or “tiny” in the title. These will be better suited for growing containers.
• Create container garden combinations by planting plants with similar growing needs with various heights and maturity sizes.

My Experience Growing Food in Containers

You learn a thing or two when you’ve grown as much food as I have in containers. The biggest takeaway when it comes to container gardening is that you have to create a mini ecosystem.

The plant isn’t the only thing you’re taking care of. It’s the pot, soil, water, and sunlight too! Everything I talk about in The Regenerative Garden has to exist in this pot.

In some regards, this makes container gardening easier and, in others, more complicated.

For instance, you need to choose the right pot. You can’t just use one you found in the alley, unless of course, it’s the perfect fit for your plant! Plastic will hold onto water, while something porous like clay will allow moisture to seep out.

As for soil, you have to use potting soil specifically, as it allows the pot to retain moisture while keeping aeration. I make all my own potting mix for this reason.

A container will even have its own microclimate. Putting a plant in a container makes the soil more insulated and will warm up sooner. This causes a plant to grow faster. Then combined with limited root space, the plant will flower and fruit earlier since it’s stressed.

Container Garden Ideas for Growing Food

When planting plants together in a container, you want to ensure they will be good roommates. No plant should create any kind of animosity against the others! All the plants in the container should have similar water, sunlight, soil, and fertilizer needs.

Here are some container garden ideas from Pamela that have been tested and proven to get you tons of food in a small space.

Salsa Garden

I don’t know about you, but I could eat salsa every day in the summer. It’s so crisp and fresh, tasting absolutely amazing when you grow the ingredients yourself.

This container garden idea does take a little bit of planning. “Plant the garlic in the fall and plant the other salsa ingredients in the spring,” says Pamela.

Plants:

• 1 garlic
• 1 plum or paste tomato
• 1 pepper (sweet or hot)
• 6 green onions
• 4 cilantro

Container size: 20 gallon (91 L)

Location: full sun.

Fertilizer: every two weeks.

Cocktail Garden

I’m no stranger to gartending. I make plenty of garden-inspired cocktails, from making lavender syrup to growing fresh mint for mojitos.

“Plant the lemon tree in the center and cluster the herbs and strawberries in sections around it,” says Pamela. “Mint tends to take over a container, so be ruthless and pull any extra plants that sprout up.”

Plants:

Container size: 2 gallon (9 L)

Location: bright and sunny window.

Fertilizer: when planting and two months after.

Windowsill Herb Harden

Indoor herb gardens are one of the best ways to get into gardening. Even if you have no outdoor space, you can grow one!

Here’s Pamela’s tip: “If you’re combining multiple herbs in one pot, choose a larger container that’s at least 4 inches (10 cm) deep. For a grouping of containers, several ¼-gallon (1 L) pots are ideal.”

Plants:

• 6 green onions
• 1 purple basil
• 1 green basil
• 1 parsley
• 1 oregano

Container size: 2 gallon (9 L)

Location: bright and sunny window.

Fertilizer: when planting and two months after.

Tomato Sauce Garden

Once you make your own spaghetti sauce, anything that comes from a jar will never compare. Making a tomato sauce is also a great way to preserve your tomatoes and other vegetables when you have an overload near the end of the season.

Here’s Pamela’s tip: “If you’re growing other vegetables, you can shred them and add them in your spaghetti sauce for extra nutrition. Plant the garlic in the fall and add the other plants in the spring.”

Plants:

Container size: 20 gallon (91 L)

Location: full sun.

Fertilizer: when planting and every two weeks after.

Kids Garden

As a mother of a budding gardener, I love this idea. “Kids who grow vegetables love to eat vegetables, and these are all easy to grow and snack on right off the vine,” says Pamela.

My best days in the garden are those when Kiddo joins me. He loves to pluck fruit and vegetables in his mouth fresh, so I can see how much little hands would love this container garden idea.

Plants

Container size: 10 gallon (45 L)

Location: full sun.

Fertilizer: Every two weeks.

Bonus: Mosquito Repellent Container

While this container garden idea isn’t for growing food per se, this is one of my favourite go-to container gardens. I made this mosquito repellent garden during a summer when the mosquitos were exceptionally bad. And we all know how these buggers can truly ruin outdoor time!

This container garden works well on a patio or other area you like to relax in. While it’s designed for mosquitos, it does contain quite a few culinary herbs. Double-duty plants here!

You can see how I made my mosquito repellent container here.

Frequently Asked Questions About Container Gardens

More Posts About Container Gardens

Let’s learn more about this alluring species and then learn how to attract them to your gardens.

Introduction: Meet the Martins

Purple martins are the largest member of the swallow family to call North America home. They’re nearly 8 inches long and have a wingspan of 15.4 to 16.1 inches.

The species gets its name from the males — they sport deep blue-purple, iridescent feathers. The ladies wear considerably less showy brown-gray feathers.

These birds like nothing more than a tasty insect snack. According to the Audubon Society, they feed on a wide variety of flying insects, “including many wasps and winged ants, and some bees.”

They also eat house flies and crane flies, beetles, moths, and butterflies. And while they do indeed eat mosquitoes, they do not consume the huge numbers the legends say they do.

It takes a lot of effort to capture the number of mosquitoes that would equal a single moth, for example. So, like many of us, they are more inclined to go for the easy meal.

For the most part, they eat midflight, twisting their bodies and wings just so to corral their prey, earning their reputation as talented aerobatic artists.

Summertime All the Time

Obviously partial to warm weather, purple martins arrange their travel schedule so that they enjoy spring and summer in the northern hemisphere, and then head south to enjoy the warm season in the southern hemisphere as well.

I mean, why not, right?

That means they arrive in the southern U.S. as early as February and make it up north in May or June. While here in the U.S., their primary task is procreation, typically producing 4 or 5 eggs in a season.

Convincing these birds to expand their families in one’s backyard is a point of pride for many gardeners.

They are appealing not only for reducing pesky insect populations, but also for their lyrical singing and playful flying style, both of which are a joy to behold.

There’s yet another reason you might want to give these birds a place to roost; we’ll get to that later in the article.

Other Enticements

Ensuring the presence of a few other amenities will help convince these these birds to settle in  your yard.

These airborne critters drink and bathe in flight. So having open water somewhere nearby — within a half mile or so — will be a selling point. They don’t drink from bird baths.

Another Motivation: Save a Species

We told you we’d offer you another reason to invite this species to live with you.

Sadly, populations of this species are declining. Why not do your part to help them rebound?

It used to be that putting up purple martin houses was so common that John James Audubon looked for the houses to determine where he’d stay the night.

In 1831, he is said to have remarked, “Almost every country tavern has a martin box on the upper part of its sign-board; and I have observed that the handsomer the box, the better does the inn generally prove to be.”

While these purple birds are not officially endangered, let’s not let them get to that point. The more of us (especially in the east) who put up welcoming lodging, the more the birds will flourish.

Let’s give them a place to roost and have young and they will reward us with their songs and their beauty.

Today we’re in chilly Zone 4b, visiting Susan Warde’s Minnesota garden.

Before my husband and I bought our current home in 1981, we’d pass it on neighborhood walks. Gazing at the sunny front yard, I’d say to myself, “Now if I lived there, I’d put an edging of marigolds up the front walk.” And so I did, with some irises transplanted from our former residence. Three years later I had a low stone wall built along the front sidewalk and the driveway; I dug up a 2-foot-wide border and planted it with annuals and more irises. The garden grew from those narrow strips and now encompasses all of the backyard and most of the side and front.

At first I’d buy or beg any plant that caught my fancy. If it was showy, I’d pop it in. After a while, I began to plan and refine and use a more limited palette, and eventually I eliminated annuals altogether. The front has a bit of a cottage-garden look and features perennials in pinks and yellows, deepening as the season progresses to golds and fuchsias. The back garden (begun in 1998) looks more like a woodland, with flagstone paths winding among ferns, hostas, and spring-flowering Minnesota natives. A side garden, developed between 2009 and 2019, now connects the front and back.

The loss of two full-grown deciduous trees and a couple of towering evergreens, and the growth over the years of once-small saplings, have made the distinction between the “sunny” front and the “shady” back less clear. Both, however, still retain much of their original character. All the gardens are home to numerous ferns, representing more than two dozen species. A dozen birdbaths provide the shimmer of water and encourage visits by wildlife.

The front garden in early July includes Ligularia dentata ‘Britt Marie Crawford’ (Zones 3–8) and Aralia ‘Sun King’ (Zones 3–9) in the foreground. White tiger lilies (Lilium hybrid, Zones 3–8), astilbes (Astilbe sp., Zones 4–8), and others are also visible.

The front garden in early June features Acer × pseudosieboldianum ‘Ice King’ (Zones 4–8), Osmunda cinnamomea (cinnamon fern, Zones 3–9), and azaleas from the Northern Lights collection (Rhododendron hybrids, Zones 3–7). The latter bridge the gap nicely between spring-blooming bulbs and early summer perennials.

In the front garden in mid-June, Hydrangea petiolaris (climbing hydrangea, Zones 4–8) scrambles up a large white pine.

The front garden in early July has Astilbe ‘Vision in Red’ (Zones 4–8), which is not remotely red—thank goodness—and Athyrium niponicum var. pictum (Japanese painted fern, Zones 3–8).

The side garden, looking toward the back, in late July features Echinacea purpurea (Zones 3–8) and Rudbeckia fulgida (Zones 3–9).

And here is the side garden in late June, looking toward the front. It includes Hakonechloa macra ‘Aureola’ (Hakone grass, Zones 5–9) on the right. The evergreen behind the birdbath is Thuja occidentalis ‘Yellow Ribbon’ (Zones 2–7).

This final view of the side garden is from early June and shows the garden almost to the back. This little garden, which I planted in 2019, used to be occupied by an ancient (and failing) blue spruce (Picea pungens, Zones 2–7) . The tree is Acer pseudosieboldianum ‘North Wind’ (Zones 4–8). Like ‘Ice Dragon’ in a former photo, it’s a great substitute for Japanese maples in Zone 4b. Also visible: Iris pseudacorus (Zones 4–8) in bud, Gillenia trifoliata ‘Pink Profusion’ (Zones 4–8), a white martagon lily (Lilium martagon, Zones 3–8), a maidenhair fern (Adiantum, Zones 3–8), a lovely but unknown Heuchera, and Hosta ‘Rainbow’s End.’

In this view of the back garden in late June, a patio is visible off to the left. Parthenocissus quinquefolia (woodbine, Zones 3–8) covers the garage wall. It was eaten to the ground—the plant, not the wall—by rabbits this winter, but you can’t keep a good vine down. Also visible are Atherium felix-femina (the native lady fern, Zones 4–8), some white astilbes, and Hosta ‘El Niño’. The tree is a Korean maple.

Lots of white astilbes are visible in the dappled shade of the back garden in early July. The hostas bordering the path are ‘Blue Ivory’ (a very unimaginative name for a truly lovely plant).

The tree in the foreground of this photo of the back garden in mid-July is a blue beech (Carpinus caroliniana, Zones 3–9). It is standing in the midst of a hosta garden. Lots of ferns are visible beyond the bench.

 

Have a garden you’d like to share?

Have photos to share? We’d love to see your garden, a particular collection of plants you love, or a wonderful garden you had the chance to visit!

To submit, send 5-10 photos to [email protected] along with some information about the plants in the pictures and where you took the photos. We’d love to hear where you are located, how long you’ve been gardening, successes you are proud of, failures you learned from, hopes for the future, favorite plants, or funny stories from your garden.

Have a mobile phone? Tag your photos on Facebook, Instagram or Twitter with #FineGardening!

Do you receive the GPOD by email yet? Sign up here.

Congratulations! You did it. You started from seed and raised all those little seedlings. You gave them the perfect potting mix. You watered, not too much, not too little. You gave them light to grow. You gave them everything they could ever ask for, and now you have trays of future Cherokee Purple tomatoes, Trinidad Moruga scorpion peppers, and Fairy Tale eggplants.

You’re excited to take the seedlings you have grown lovingly from seed, and plant them in your garden.

Not so fast.

You need to harden them off first.

What is ‘hardening off’?

Hardening off is prepping the seedlings for life outdoors. Those seedlings had the life when they were indoors. Their every need was met. They wanted for nothing. (You are a great plant mom!) But now, they need to be outside, in the sun, the rain, the wind, and everything else Mother Nature can throw at them. Hardening off is sort of like sending your kid off to college before they start a life of true independence. It is the transition stage to allow your seedlings to acclimate to the new outdoor life.

Why do seedlings need to be hardened off?

Plants grown in a controlled environment aren’t used to the uncontrolled outdoors. No matter how strong your grow lights are, they are no match for the sun, which is multiple times brighter than your best grow light. There is no wind to tug on their little roots or stems. Rain comes from above and not all of it will be gentle. Hardening off allows the plants time to build up their natural defenses to survive outside.

How do you do it?

• Check the daytime temperature and make sure it’s above 50 degrees F.
• Pick a cloudy day to start. The plants need to form a cuticle layer to protect them from the sun. It’s a waxy coating that acts like a sunscreen and limits evaporation.
• Because they don’t yet have a cuticle layer, water them every time you put them outside.
• Leave them out for a few hours in the shade in a sheltered area.
• Bring them in every night.
• Gradually increase the time outdoors each day during the first week.
• Starting the second week, move them so they get more sun each day but still bring them in at night.
• Check them at the end of the second week. If they look strong and healthy, then they are hardened off and ready to plant.

Do all plants need to be hardened off?

No, plants that are native to your area are generally acclimated to the local growing conditions and do not need to be hardened off if started outside. However, since hardening off is a simple process that doesn’t do any harm, it’s safer to harden off if there’s any doubt. Hardening off properly gives your plants a solid start in your garden and sets them up for a bountiful harvest.

See also:

(Visited 1 times, 1 visits today)

A tomatillo’s flavor instead is often described as citrusy, tart, sour, and tangy. Some compare the fruit’s taste to a ‘Granny Smith’ apple or a green grape.

If you’ve sampled a salsa or jam containing these green wonders – or even a tomatillo mojito – you may have considered adding tomatillo (pronounced toh-mah-tee-yo) plants to your garden.

Let’s explore the taxonomy and history of the plant, and then we’ll look at how to grow and harvest it. Here’s the lineup:

What Are Tomatillos?

Tomatillos are part of the nightshade (Solanaceae) family, along with tomatoes and peppers. The leaves look a bit like those of eggplant, another nightshade plant.

Nightshade plants are easy to identify visually as relatives because they each produce the same particular type of flower.

The fruit’s very name is a misnomer. “Tomatillo” means “little tomato” in Spanish, and while they are distantly related, the tomatillo is definitely not a tomato.

Nevertheless, nicknames linking the two tasty fruits abound, with the tomatillo also being referred to as “tomate verde,” or green tomato, and “husk tomato.”

And with a few exceptions, home gardeners can use the same strategies and techniques to grow tomatoes and tomatillos.

Before you start, it’s helpful to know a bit of background about this core ingredient in Mexican cuisine, particularly the ever-popular salsa verde.

Cultivation and History

Originating in Mexico and Central America, this citrusy fruit has been an important food crop for millennia, though the plant has been around for even longer.

In early 2017, Peter Wilf at Pennsylvania State University in University Park and colleagues at the School of Integrative Plant Science at Cornell University and the National Council for Scientific and Technical Research at Egidio Feruglio Paleontological Museum in Argentina reported their discovery and analysis of a 52-million-year-old fossilized tomatillo found in the Patagonia region of Argentina in the journal “Science.”

Tomatillo plants and related members of the Physalis genus grow wild throughout their native regions.

Some referred to as “wild tomatillos” or “longleaf ground cherries” grow wild in parts of the midwestern United States where they are derisively called weeds and are considered invasive, despite their edibility.

Historical records show that numerous North American native tribes used the wild fruits (Physalis longifolia) to treat headaches and stomachaches, according to a publication of the Native Medicinal Research Program at the University of Kansas.

Prized for their unusual flavor and bright green or purple color, the tangy fruit of P. philadelphica are now cultivated and enjoyed worldwide. They can be eaten raw but most commonly are cooked.

Interested in adding this unusual vegetable to your garden rotation? Keep reading for tips, from sowing to serving.

Propagation

In North America, these plants are grown as annuals.

As their popularity spreads, seedlings are becoming more commonly available at local garden centers, though not always at big box stores. You can also find mail-order seeds and propagate your own.

If you go the seed route, start them indoors six to eight weeks before the last frost is expected in your area.

An important consideration when selecting transplants or starting seeds: Because tomatillos are not self-pollinating, they must be planted in groups of at least two to ensure fruit.

Most gardeners find two to four plants produce sufficient fruits for plenty of salsa verde.

As for transplanting, whether you’ve purchased starts or grown your own, you’ll want to harden them off the week before you put them in the ground.

Start by setting them outside for an hour the first day, then add an hour or two on successive days until the plants are accustomed to the increased light and differences in temperature outdoors.

Like tomatoes, you’ll encourage strong, healthy plants if you bury two-thirds of each transplant to enable additional root growth from the stem. Backfill with loose, fertile soil and water the plants well at the soil line.

From there, the plants will need just a bit of care to grow to a healthy size, flower, and then start producing that coveted bumper crop of tart, green fruits for cooking and preserving.

How to Grow

Site selection is important when growing P. philadelphia.

Though the tomatillo is a lighter feeder than the tomato, it does need garden space with fertile loam amended with plenty of composted manure or other organic material to improve aeration and drainage.

Work about two inches of compost into the soil at least a couple of weeks ahead of planting, or a season ahead if possible.

Aim for soil in the pH range of 6.0 to 6.8, which you can determine using a soil test.

Consider growing your plants in raised beds if you have heavy clay soil – or at least until you can amend the soil for a season or two first.

The tips in our guide to growing tomatoes in clay soil will also apply to tomatillos.

The plant’s bright yellow flowers will attract bees and other pollinators, so it’s a good idea to grow them at least a few yards away from any areas of your yard that have been treated with insecticides.

You might also add nasturtiums or marigolds as companion plants that will attract pollinators.

Like their cousin the tomato, they want lots of sun, so pick an appropriately bright location. 

Space plants about three feet apart. These semi-determinate plants tend to sprawl, growing three to four feet tall and wide, so you might want to use a trellis, stake, or cage to support the plants and keep the fruits off the ground.

Tomatillos prefer well-drained soil, and they can tolerate moderate drought conditions. They do best, however, with an inch or so of water per week. And they certainly won’t grow well in soaking-wet ground.

Consider drip irrigation for these thirsty plants. If you don’t want to go to the trouble, be sure to water at the soil line, not from above the plant, to prevent disease and promote healthy growth.

Once the plants are at least a few inches tall, add a two- to three-inch layer of organic mulch around them to conserve soil moisture and suppress weeds.

If you start with amply fertile soil, the plants should be able to make it through the season without additional fertilizing. In fact, overfertilizing can lead to poor fruit set and the development of leaves over fruits.

When growing in lower-fertility soil, consider side-dressing plants with a tablespoon of  20-0-0 NPK fertilizer when they’re about four weeks old and again at eight weeks old.

Tomatillos are well-suited for container growing. Use a five-gallon pot for each plant.

Keep an eye on soil moisture, as containers dry out more quickly. And follow our guide for growing tomatoes in containers for more tips that also work for P. philadelphia.

Growing Tips

• Start seeds indoors four to six weeks before the last average frost in your area.
• Transplant or sow in fertile, well-draining soil.
• Consider supporting plants with tomato cages to keep fruits off the ground and reduce sprawling.
• Supplement with one inch of water per week if it hasn’t rained enough to supply that amount.
• Add a layer of straw mulch or grass clippings when plants are a few inches tall.

Powdery mildew, which looks like a dusting of flour on the stems and leaves, can also damage the plants and slowly kill them. Learn how to prevent and cope with powdery mildew in our guide.

The best ways to prevent pests and diseases from taking hold is to destroy plant debris at the end of the harvest season, and rotate crops in your garden so you’re not planting tomatillos where they or other nightshades (particularly potatoes, as well as tomatoes, eggplant, and peppers) have grown in the previous two seasons.

This reduces pressure from harmful pathogens or insects that can survive in the soil or on plant debris from one season to the next.

Harvest and Storage

The fruit is ready to pluck 75 to 100 days after transplanting.

Pick tomatillos when they fill out the papery skins and their husks begin to split. You can gently pull a bit of one husk to the side to visually check the size of the fruit inside, or gently press the sides to determine if the fruit is starting to press against the sides.

When the fruit is still small and hard, and the husk is quite loose, it is too early to harvest.

Occasionally, the husk won’t split but turns brown and leathery instead. Tis is also a sign that the fruit is ready to be picked.

If the fruit turns pale yellow, you have waited too long. At this stage, the tasty interior becomes seedier, and the flavor loses its distinctive tanginess.

When you’ve identified a fruit ready for harvest, it’s best to cut it from the plant rather than pulling it, which might damage the stem. Compost damaged or overripe fruits.

You can store harvested fruits in their husks at room temperature for up to a week, or in the refrigerator, either loose or in a paper bag, for around three weeks. Avoid storing your harvest in plastic.

Peel away the husk before preparing for consumption. As you peel the green orbs, they will feel sticky. Just wash the fruit to remove the tacky residue.

Preserving

To freeze tomatillos, simply wash them, slice them if you like, and then freeze them in airtight containers. No blanching is required.

If you add plenty of sweetener, tomatillos are tasty in a sweet or savory jam. Our sister site, Foodal, provides jam-making basics.

You can also dehydrate the fruits. For basic instructions, refer to Foodal’s Ultimate Guide to Dehydrating.

Of course, I think the most appealing use of a bumper crop of these tangy garden-grown fruits is water bath canning a batch of salsa verde, or freezing it.

Foodal’s water-bath canning tips will assure your success.

Recipes and Cooking Ideas

Before you begin cooking with tomatillos, a reminder: They are in the same family as tomatoes, but the fruits are crisper and far more tart.

They tend to taste better with at least some cooking, much like eggplant, which are also related.

You can start with the traditional salsa verde. Foodal provides a basic recipe, and it’s addictive served on eggs, with raw veggies, or stirred into queso dip. Or just dip tortilla chips into the green, tangy goodness.

For a dip with a twist, try Foodal’s take on tomatillo guacamole.

Or use the tangy produce to make an entree like Foodal’s creamy chicken enchiladas verdes with charred tomatillo sauce.

With each plant producing pounds of tomatillos as the summer wears on, you may experiment with sauces in any number of traditional and innovative dishes.

Or, you may find yourself settling into a daily habit of chips and homemade salsa verde – and missing the ritual when the season ends.

Even if you don’t share my radish addiction, you surely must agree that there’s a reason you can find them in practically every backyard garden at some point.

Actually, make that many reasons.

They’re quick to mature, with some cultivars ready to harvest in just over two weeks, and they start reliably from seed. They can be grown practically year-round, plus they’re nutritious and delicious.

Things only get better once you bring them into the kitchen.

The roots and leaves can be used raw, cooked, or dried, in an endless number of recipes. You can even eat the seeds! And as microgreens, they’re ready in a matter of days.

Maybe part of why I love them is because they appeal to my lazy gardening tendencies. You can practically do nothing more than scatter the seeds over some loose soil, and you’re good to go.

A few weeks later, you’re dining on your delectable harvest.

Of course, there’s a little more to it than that if you want to ensure the best results.

Coming up in this guide, we’re going to go over the following to help you make the most of these mouthwatering vegetables:

A good source of vitamin C, radishes also make good companion plants in the garden. And every part of the plant is edible!

Tender green tops add zing to any salad, and immature seed pods have a marvelous sharp taste that makes them a natural in soups and stir-fries. Even the flowers are tasty.

Let’s have a closer look at how to grow these fiery gems, the different types of radish, which other plants benefit from their company, storage tips, and a few unique serving suggestions.

Cultivation and History

Radishes (Raphanus sativus) belong to the Brassicaceae, or mustard family.

Also known as cruciferous vegetables, some Brassica relatives include arugula, cabbages, broccoli, cauliflower, kale, rapeseed (canola), kohlrabi, and turnips.

These biennials often grown as annuals likely originated in Southeast Asia, where they were among the earliest cultivated crops.

You can still find wild radishes in Southeast Asia and China today, so botanists generally agree that’s where they originated.

Ancient Egyptians and Romans devoured these easygoing veggies, and they were one of the first European vegetables to be introduced to the Americas.

Spanish explorers brought them along in the mid-1500s, and people were quick to incorporate them into their potagers.

While many people probably picture small red garden varieties (R. sativus var. radicula) like the one-inch ‘Cherry Belle’ cultivar, these root vegetables also come in lengths up to 24 inches, as with daikons (R. sativus var. longipinnatus), and in colors including pink, mauve, white, yellow, green, and even black.

They can grow quite heavy, too. The round ‘Sakurajima’ daikon is capable of reaching up to 100 pounds.

Radishes can be grown as annuals in USDA Hardiness Zones 2 to 11.

Propagation

The seeds of R. sativus remain viable for about four years in proper storage conditions. And they germinate quickly, within five to seven days.

Before you plant, loosen up the soil and work in some well-rotted compost to about six inches deep. Amend the soil even deeper for larger types like daikons.

The key to excellent radishes is having loose, rich, well-draining, but water-retentive soil. That’s why growing them in containers or raised beds is such an effective method for these plants.

For spring varieties, seeds must be sown in cool weather in the 40°F range, with the best germination rates occurring in the range of 55 to 70°F.

They can be planted as soon as the soil is workable. Sow about half an inch deep and two inches apart for most cultivars.

Of course, larger varieties will need to be spaced further apart. Check the seed packet for guidance.

To ensure a steady supply of fresh spring radishes, sow a row every week while the temperatures remain spring-like.

Sow again in late summer to early fall, when the heat is waning. Seeds should be set about a quarter-inch deep.

Summer varieties have essentially the same requirements for spacing, and can be sown until August in most areas.

These varieties can generally tolerate temperatures between 65 and 85°F. If you plant these in cooler temperatures, they will be slow to mature.

Due to their typically greater size, winter varieties naturally require more space.

Prepare the soil as you would for spring and summer varieties, but plant seeds three-quarters of an inch deep with six inches between the seeds, depending on the cultivar.

These can be planted starting in September and throughout the winter, depending on your climate. They prefer temperatures under 55°F and can tolerate temperatures well into the low 40s, and even a brief freeze.

Regardless of the type, they’ll do best if they’re not sown too closely together, and in a sunny location. Too much shade will result in plenty of leafy growth but roots will be skimpy.

You can also sprinkle the seeds on the soil and lightly cover. Just be sure to thin the seedlings once they germinate and develop one set of leaves. Seedlings first develop a pair of B-shaped cotyledons followed by true leaves.

Seeds can also be started indoors a few weeks prior to when you intend to plant them outside.

Remember, radishes like cool conditions, so don’t use a seed heating mat.

Harden the seedlings off for a week before you transplant them outdoors.

Hardening off entails placing the trays outside for an hour in a protected area with direct sun and then bringing the seedlings back indoors.

The next day, bring the seedlings back outside and leave them outdoors for two hours. Each day, add an hour until a week has passed. Now the seedlings are ready for planting in their permanent spot.

To transplant, make a hole the size of the cell and gently separate it from the other cells using a pair of scissors. Place the cell in the hole and water gently so as not to disturb the seedling. Keep the soil moist.

If you used non-biodegradable pots, gently remove the seedlings from the pots, retaining as much soil as possible, and place them in the holes. Firm the soil up around each seedling.

The exception to all this is if you decide to grow your radishes as microgreens rather than for the roots.

To grow microgreens, broadcast the seeds over the soil in a seed-starting tray or microgreen pot.

Water, well, and place the tray in an area where it will receive direct sunlight for at least six hours a day.

How to Grow

This taproot crop is a medium to heavy feeder and likes soil that’s loose, cool, and fertile. Aim for a pH between 6.0 and 7.0.

Moisture is extremely important for healthy – and tasty! – plants.

Drought conditions will cause the roots to become woody and hard, and may lead to cracking. Don’t allow more than the top half inch of soil to dry out.

Apply an all-purpose fertilizer, such as 10-10-10 NPK or 16-16-8 NPK, using approximately one cup for every 10 feet of row.

For those unfamiliar with plant nutrients and fertilizer ratios, the three numbers are always expressed in the same format – the first is nitrogen (N), followed by phosphorus (P), and then potassium (K).

This should be applied midway through the growing time frame. For instance, if the cultivar you’ve selected takes 40 days to mature, apply fertilizer at 20 days.

A winter crop will also benefit from a side dressing of well-rotted compost when the plants have developed a few sets of leaves.

Thoroughly work the fertilizer or compost into the top six inches of soil.

Avoid fertilizers with a high ratio of nitrogen because these can cause root branching and excessive leaf growth at the expense of root growth.

Like marigolds, radishes are a good all-purpose aid in repelling many types of insects in the garden.

They make a beneficial companion when planted close to beans, beets, chervil, cucumbers, lettuce, mint, parsnips, peas, spinach, squash, and tomatoes.

They’re sometimes used as a trap plant with onions to attract root maggots. Radishes used in this way should be disposed of when the onions are harvested.

Avoid planting near potatoes or hyssop as well as other brassicas because they can share pests and diseases.

Growing Tips

• Soil should be loose, rich, and well-draining with a pH of 6.0 to 7.0.
• Keep the soil moist. Drought causes cracked, split, or woody roots.
• Avoid high-nitrogen fertilizer.

Maintenance

Due to their quick growth rate, cultivation and weeding are not usually needed.

So long as you prepare the area well and make sure there are no existing weeds in place, weeds will hardly have a chance to take root.

Because the roots are growing right underneath the soil surface, deep hoeing often does more harm than good and should be avoided.

During the growing season, cultivate carefully so as to avoid disturbing the roots.

With the unpredictable weather many regions are experiencing, you might want to keep some shade cloth on hand in case of an extremely hot day.

Spring or winter radishes should be covered with shade cloth when temperatures climb above 70°F.

An unexpected heat wave can cause radishes to bolt. This is when a plant moves from regular growth to seed production rapidly.

When this happens, you’ll see flowers forming on the plant and the roots underground will rapidly turn hard and woody. If this takes place, harvest and use them right away.

Cultivars to Select

Radishes come in three types: early, midseason, and late.

Early radishes develop in the cool months of early spring and fall. They take up to 30 days to mature.

Midseason types can tolerate heat and may be grown from May through August, and they take up to 40 days to mature.

Late-season varietes, also known as winter radishes, can be sown throughout the winter in warm regions, and from late summer into autumn in temperate zones.

These are usually larger than midseason or early radishes, and they need up to 70 days to mature.

For a roundup of the best varieties, check out our guide. Here is a quick rundown of some of the best:

There are simple fixes available for both.

Practicing a three-year crop rotation to avoid planting radishes in areas where cabbages or other brassicas have previously been grown will help to minimize root maggot infestations.

And because flea beetles attack the leaves, a floating row cover will prevent damage from these pests.

The only disease you’ll really need to watch for is damping off. In radishes, damping off is caused by fungi in the Rhizoctonia genus.

It causes water-soaked lesions at the base of the stems and the eventual collapse of young seedlings.

Since damping off is a death sentence for seedlings, the best offense is a good defense. Make sure you’re always using clean soil and containers, as well as sanitizing your tools.

Keep seedlings healthy, and don’t overcrowd them as they’re growing. Always water at the soil level and not on the foliage.

Harvesting and Storage

It’s important to harvest radishes before the roots turn woody and bitter.

You can usually just go by the number of days to maturity listed on the seed packet. Once you see shoulders popping out of the ground, it’s time to pull those roots.

To harvest early roots, grab the leaves at the base and simply pull them from the ground when they’re the size you want, and brush off any excess soil.

You might want to use a garden fork to help you gently leverage up the plants. This is especially helpful for larger types like daikons.

Wash well just before use, and store leaves separately from the roots for longer storage in the refrigerator.

For spring and summer varieties, it’s important to harvest them pronto, as leaving them in the ground beyond the maturity date will result in rapid deterioration of their taste and texture.

Be sure to mark harvest time in your gardening journal, or set a reminder on your phone!

After picking, trim the tops, brush off any soil, and store in plastic bags or a covered dish in the fridge. If you do choose to wash them off right away, be sure to pat them dry to prevent rot.

The edible greens of spring and summer types will only keep in the refrigerator for about two to three days, but the roots will keep for five to seven days.

Winter varieties are a bit different, as they can be left in the ground until the first frost without any flavor deterioration. They’re also very cold-hardy and will keep in moist storage for several months. In the refrigerator, they can be stored for several weeks.

For long-term storage in root cellars, line a box with a thick layer of straw and lay in the radishes, then layer with straw, a bit of soil, then more straw.

Or, after the first frost, you may choose to harvest and then ground trench them outdoors in the same manner.

Dig a trench several inches deeper than the roots are wide, add a thick bed of straw, the radishes, more straw, some soil, and a top layer of straw.

Preserving

Dried radish greens, known as mucheong in Korea, are an incredibly popular dish in the region and are used to make siraegi.

If you’ve never tried them, now is your chance. Drying is a great way to save them when you have an overabundance of leaves.

Wash the leaves before drying. If you don’t have a dehydrator, arrange them in a single layer on a cookie sheet and place it in your oven on the lowest setting until the leaves are crisp, but not brown.

If you aren’t in a hurry, you can hang the washed leaves in bunches in a dry area with good air circulation. They will take up to a week to dry this way.

You can also dry the roots. To do this, trim off the greens and the root tip and thinly slice the radishes an eighth of an inch thick or into thin strips.

Place the strips or slices in a single layer on a baking sheet or in your dehydrator. Bake on the lowest setting in your oven until the radishes are crisp, but not burnt.

In Korea, dried radish strips are called mu-mallaengi and sundried daikon strips are called kiriboshi in Japan.

The strips are used to make a Korean dish known as mu-mallaengi muchim, which is a pungent, spicy salad that incorporates soy sauce, red chili powder, garlic, Korean peppers, and sesame oil. My mouth is watering just thinking about it.

Of course, you can always pickle radishes too. From quick-pickled roots in vinegar with sugar to the Korean pickled radish dish called chikin-mu, there are lots of options.

Recipes and Cooking Ideas

These peppery roots are familiar as a component of appetizers, salads, and tea sandwiches, but they can also be roasted, steamed, or sauteed.

A most hospitable vegetable, in France, many restaurants serve radishes on a plate along with a pat of homemade butter, some sea salt, and a carafe of local wine to crunch on and sip while deciding what to order.

For brunch, rework a traditional Victorian breakfast at home. Serve sliced radishes with potted shrimp or crab, a bowl of watercress, and plenty of fresh bread and butter.

Don’t forget radishes at lunch! Try creating a delicious sandwich with thin slices of whole-grain pumpernickel, cream cheese, sliced avocado, and radish matchsticks.

Inviting company over? As canapes, serve paper-thin slices on toasted baguette rounds with an olive tapenade. Or wow everyone with a to-die-for radish panzenella. Get the recipe from our sister site, Foodal.

How about one for the vegetarians? For a meat-free entree, roast radishes with some chickpeas and serve in taco shells or on tortillas, with sliced avocado and tzatziki sauce.

Or how about these mushroom and sweet potato tacos dressed with radish slaw from our sister site, Foodal?

Sautee the greens with garlic or add to stir fry and serve over brown rice with spicy homemade radish kimchi.

Or, try fresh radish seed pods sauteed with garlic and thyme, and served over a bed of peppery greens – such as arugula, watercress, or your own spicy organic radish sprouts!

We’ve been making a “fast” compost pile, and recording some YouTube shorts as we do so.

This is what it looked like on day 2, the first time I turned it:

And this is what it looked like this morning after I turned it:

You can see how much it’s blackened up. I think I’ve turned it six times now. We were going to get to it yesterday but we had good friends over, and I skipped turning.

It’s not going to be done in 18 days, but it will certainly be finished within a month.

Now I need to build a huge bread compost pile. I was trying to dry some loaves for the chickens so we could store them, but it’s been at almost 1900% humidity and raining off and on for the last two days, so that’s a wash. COMPOST TIME

Share this post!

Eurybia divaricata

White wood asters, Eurybia divaricata, are native perennials in the Asteraceae family, which also includes chrysanthemums, coneflowers, and sunflowers.

We link to vendors to help you find relevant products. If you buy from one of our links, we may earn a commission.

Suited to cultivation in USDA Hardiness Zones 3 to 8, these eastern North American wildflowers are a boon to woodland gardeners in naturalistic settings with room for masses of tiny white blossoms beneath a shady canopy of trees and woody shrubs.

In our guide to growing asters, we discuss the different aster species and their cultivation.

This article discusses how to grow and care for the white wood aster.

Here’s what we’ll cover:

Let’s get started!

What Are White Wood Asters?

White wood asters are herbaceous perennial wildflowers with an upright and mounding growth habit.

The green to black stems are crooked and bear distinctively heart-shaped green leaves with deeply serrated edges.

Small florets measure less than one inch across and consist of up to 10 slender white rays around a center disk of yellow shading to reddish-brown.

They appear as a flattened corymb at the terminal ends of the stems.

Mature dimensions are 12 to 36 inches tall and 18 to 30 inches wide, achieved in two to five years.

Plants naturalize readily, spreading by rhizomes and self-sown barbed, bristle-like seeds that cover the plants in cottony tufts at season’s end.

Cultivation and History

E. divaricata is suited to home garden cultivation in informal, natural settings where its bushy nature and myriads of tiny blossoms are unfettered by formal beds and borders.

The botanical species and a small number of cultivars, aka nativars, are available, as we will soon discuss.

Aster flowers, foliage, and roots have a long history of use in Native American traditional medicine.

The young, tender leaves of E. divaricata are nontoxic and palatable when cooked. However, they are most often grown neither for food nor ornamental value.

Native perennial asters are classified as “filler” in the florist’s “thriller,” “filler,” “spiller” formula for a well-balanced, attractive arrangement.

These cloud-like mounds of fluff are neither showy nor gravity-defying and lack the ornamental value of larger “focal” flowers with thriller and spiller qualities.

Their claim to fame is the ability to produce copious quantities of small florets that attract beneficial pollinators and wildlife.

These wildlife species coevolved with E. divaricata and continue to seek it out for survival. Brightening up dark areas of the landscape is a bonus.

Propagation

To propagate E. divaricata, you’ll need plants, seeds, soft stem cuttings, or divisions. You can read all about each method in our article on aster propagation.

For nursery plants, seedlings, and rooted soft stem cuttings, note the depth they sit in their containers, and set them at the same depth in the garden soil when they’re ready to transplant. For divisions, replicate their depth in the ground before you dug them up.

Allow 18 to 30 inches between plants.

Tamp soil firmly around the stems. Water and tamp again to squelch air pockets.

Apply a slow-release, granular, all-purpose fertilizer around the stems. Don’t let the product touch any plant tissue, as it may burn.

If planting seeds, moisten the soil lightly, and scatter several seeds at intervals of 15 to 18 inches.

Once they have two sets of true leaves, you can thin seedlings to intervals of 18 to 30 inches and apply a slow-release fertilizer to damp soil, as we did above.

Maintain even moisture, about an inch of water per week, including rain, to establish healthy roots without oversaturation.

How to Grow

Once you have potted nursery plants, seeds, seedlings, rooted soft stem cuttings, or divisions, and the last spring frost date has passed, it’s time to plant.

The best location for E. divaricata is a partially to fully shaded area with average soil and a neutral to slightly acidic pH of 6.8 to 7.2.

The drainage should be excellent, as standing water invites pests and fungal diseases and may result in rotting.

Work the soil to a depth of eight to 10 inches until you achieve a smooth, crumbly consistency.

As you begin, keep in mind that generous spacing prevents overcrowding and maximizes airflow to inhibit moisture-loving pests, diseases, and rotting. We will discuss pests and diseases shortly.

Mature plants have low to medium water needs and exhibit above average tolerance of deer, drought, and dry/rocky soil.

Growing Tips

It’s easy to plant E. divaricata when you remember the following:

• Prepare the garden bed to a depth of 8 to 10 inches for smooth, crumbly soil.
• Note the depth of plants, seedlings, rooted stem cuttings, and divisions, and set them at their original depth in the garden soil.
• Moisten the soil and sow the seeds on the surface.
• Space generously to avoid overcrowding and support air circulation.
• Apply granular fertilizer to plants at planting time and seedlings once they have two sets of true leaves. Take care not to let it touch the stems or foliage.
• Maintain even moisture, an inch per week, to help plants establish healthy roots.

With planting done, let’s move on and discuss ongoing care tasks.

Pruning and Maintenance

Trimming the foliage by up to one-third in early summer promotes more compact, less leggy growth for a more uniform, mounded appearance at bloom time with less need for staking.

Even without early pruning, E. divaricata is less likely to require staking than other aster species.

Additional maintenance includes removing broken, diseased, or pest-infested foliage as needed, cutting all stems to the ground at season’s end, and discarding cut stems to deprive rodents and other pests of shelter during and after the growing season.

In the spring, apply an all-purpose, slow-release, granular fertilizer to support a healthy start to the season.

Cultivars to Select

In addition to botanical species E. divaricata, there are several cultivated varieties or nativars.

E. divaricata ‘Eastern Star’ has black stems, a height of 24 inches, and a spread of 24 to 36 inches.

E. divaricata ‘Fiesta’ is 20 inches tall and 10 inches wide with a hint of lavender in the floret rays.

E. divaricata ‘Raiche Form’ is approximately 20 inches tall and wide with one-inch florets.

E. divaricata ‘Snow Heron’ is 12 to 18 inches tall and nine to 12 inches wide.

Purchasing sources include native seed and plant exchanges and native plant nurseries. Please do not dig up wild plants as doing so disrupts fragile ecosystems and displaces wildlife.

Managing Pests and Disease

White wood asters are not prone to pests or diseases.

However, as shade plants, they may become vulnerable to both when plants are too close together and/or drainage is poor.

Slugs and snails are drawn to dark, moist foliage and may chew voraciously, leaving telltale holes or consuming entire leaves.

And fungal conditions, like fusarium wilt and powdery mildew, may proliferate on perpetually wet surfaces.

Advanced fungal disease may lead to rotting and plant death.

Best Uses

The best way to showcase this large, bushy perennial with many tiny florets is to plant it en masse as a filler in the understory of naturalistic woodland settings.

It is at home in the filtered to full shade this space affords, and provided the soil drains well, and plants are spaced generously, it should not be overly prone to moisture-loving pests or diseases.

Consider including specimen plantings in existing butterfly, native plant, and shade gardens where it can pair with flowering plants with similar cultural requirements.

See our aster companion plants article for ideas.

Additional practical and attractive uses include scattering seeds to naturalize randomly in woodland settings, especially where erosion is problematic or along perimeters, for an informal herbaceous late summer to fall privacy hedge and wildlife habitat.

Quick Reference Growing Guide

Plant Type:	Herbaceous flowering perennial	Flower / Foliage Color:	White/green
Native to:	Eastern North America	Maintenance:	Low to moderate
Hardiness (USDA Zone):	3-8	Tolerance:	Deer, deep shade, drought, dry/rocky soil
Bloom Time:	Late summer to fall	Soil Type:	Average
Exposure:	Part to full shade	Soil pH:	6.8-7.2
Time to Maturity:	2-5 years	Soil Drainage:	Well-draining
Spacing:	15-18 inches (seed); 18-30 inches (transplants)	Attracts:	Native bees and butterflies, songbirds, other wildlife
Planting Depth:	Surface sow (seed), container/root depth (transplants)	Uses:	Butterfly garden, informal hedge, mass planting, naturalized planting, shade garden, native plant garden, woodland settings
Height:	12-36 inches	Order:	Asterales
Spread:	18-30 inches	Family:	Asteraceae
Water Needs:	Low to moderate	Genus:	Eurybia
Common Pests and Diseases:	Slugs; Fusarium wilt, powdery mildew	Species:	Divaricata

A Walk on the Wild Side

White wood asters are a woodland gardener’s wildflower friend, lighting up shady recesses of the landscape with cloud-like masses of tiny white blooms.

And as a rich source of nectar for late-season pollinators, they support local wildlife and a diverse growing environment.

Are you ready to take a walk on the wild side?

Add E. divaricata to your garden planner now and prepare to delight in frothy mounds of white.

If you found this guide informative and want to learn about other native species of asters, we recommend the following:

Getting a new home is a very exciting experience. You get to choose the things for decorating your home. A home is an extension of your personality so no matter what you do; your home will represent you.

Source

Minimalistic, modern, chic, bohemian, colorful, monotone, dramatic, or traditional you get to put your interest on display. It is like living in a museum where your characteristics and interests are hung on the wall. People who have an interest in interior decoration especially look forward to moving into a new home. This is the same for people who are tech-savvy and want to enjoy the privileges of a smart home while staying on a budget. 

However, the excitement can take a direct hit if you are renting the house. Generally, renter policies are very strict. Most property owners do not allow the renter to repaint the house. Others have a strict no-nail and wiring policy. These restrictions leave little to no room for imagination since most renovation projects require at least a few adjustments. For the most part like the paint job, hanging wall art, or setting the theme for the house, you will see many alternatives. From using wallpaper to adding stick-on for wall art, most DIY experts have tried offering solutions for almost everything.  

When it comes to smart homes, things might change a little especially because you need at least some kind of wring to hook things. Moreover, the budget restrictions do not complement the smart home projects in most cases. 

To offer a viable solution, tech experts and smart home companies have come up with simple, portable yet wireless smart home appliances. 

For these simple smart home appliances, you do not need to nail things down or get things wired. Another fun part is that these appliances are simple to install, and portable yet affordable so, you can use them as a renter or as a homeowner. 

Since these things are wireless, you can easily carry them when you move to a new house. To install these appliances you will just need a good internet connection with good WIFI that can support these appliances regardless of their location. We recommend, Optimum Internet connection for smart home appliances as it offers the best speed with both Wi-Fi and Ethernet. The best thing about Optimum is the flawless, seamless, and wall-to-wall coverage it offers with the Wi-Fi. 

Best Smart Home Products for Renters

Smart Bulbs

Smart bulbs are a great option to introduce smart lighting without getting into the lengthy wiring process. The best thing about the smart bulb is that you will get it in different shapes and sizes. From basic food lightning and night light to full bright light, you will get to control the lighting with just one tap. Apart from this, you can connect it to the audio assistance as well as your phone. With a smart bulb, you do not need to get off your seat, as you will be able to control the light from anywhere, anytime. 

Benefits for Renters 

As a renter, a smart bulb is a very good option because it is affordable and portable. If you have a small home, you can get one or two smart bulbs. However, if you have a big house, you can easily use the same two bulbs anywhere as they require no wiring. 

Smart Plugs

As a renter, one of the main goals is to reduce the utility bills as much as possible. With smart plugs, you will get to control everything with the use of your phone or just the voice assistant. The best thing about these plugs is that you can use them to plug anything. From small appliances like lights and music speakers to big appliances like ovens and air conditioners. 

Benefits for Renters 

As a renter, a smart plug will help you convert all the appliances around the home into smart appliances. This is perfect for renters who are renting small studio apartments and do not want to spend too much money on getting started with the smart home.  The smart plugs are easily available and affordable yet they offer full control. 

Smart Lock

A smart lock is a very simple solution to all your security and safety-related problems. Attacking the smart lock to your front door will offer you not only a decent security system within your budget but it will also offer you a full security system. Smart locks have so many different variations, you can choose something with or without a camera based on your needs. 

Benefits for Renters 

For renters with limited security options, a smart lock is the best option. Generally, a security system consists of four security cameras along with one door lock system. However, this requires extensive wiring and constant monitoring. With a smart lock, you do not need wiring and you can decide where you want to place the system based on your needs. 

Smart Speaker

This is one of the essentials that are not just used for listening to music but also is the best option for switching all your smart home equipment to voice control. With a smart speaker, you get to listen to your favorite songs, stay updated about the weather, listen to the news, or enjoy podcasts while you work. However, if you have other appliances, smart lights, or smart drapes, you can control everything with your voice. 

Benefits for Renters 

For renters, the smart speaker is a must-have because not only it is portable but can be adjusted and placed anywhere. The best thing about smart speakers is that there are so many variations to choose from. You can get something as small as your palm or as big as your window. 

Bottom Line

Smart homes are generally perceived as a thing of the future so only tech-savvy, uber-rich people can afford it. However, tech companies have introduced portable yet affordable smart equipment for renters. 

This is a collaborative post in partnership with FlexiSpot

With the trend for hybrid working (splitting time between the office and home) only growing stronger, many of us are having to find a permanent place to work within the home.

Setting up a workspace within your home can be a challenge.  More often than not, it’s a case of squeezing a desk or table into a living area or a bedroom, and that doesn’t always make for the most comfortable working environment.

If you work from home, you’ve probably come across the concept of standing desks.  These are designed to be worked at while you stand up, and offer a number of benefits when it comes to posture, joint pain, and general health.

If you’re nervous about making the switch to a standing desk, an adjustable desk which provides both sitting and standing options is a flexible alternative.

We’ve been trying out the Q8 Flexispot standing desk recently; this feature shares our experience of using the product.

Why switch to a standing desk?

Sitting at a desk for long periods of time isn’t great for your body.  It puts pressure on your joints and muscles, and increases your tendency to hold your body in an ‘un-natural’ position.  This can create pain and cause poor posture.

In contrast, standing up is a much more ‘natural’ position for the body, and can help to maintain good posture and relieve pressure on joints and muscles.

Standing more and sitting less has also been linked to a lower risk of obesity, diabetes and heart disease.

A sit-stand desk (also known as an adjustable standing desk) can also boost productivity and psychological health.

What is an adjustable standing desk?

An adjustable standing desk is powered by a motor, which allows you to adjust the height of the desk top to suit your needs.

This gives you the flexibility to work while sitting or standing, and it also allows multiple users of the desk to work in the best position for their height.

How an adjustable standing desk can help you create an ergonomic workstation

An ergonomic workstation is all about supporting your body in a neutral position, so those aches and pains are avoided.  Key elements include:

• A desk at the correct height to allow your wrists to be flat at keyboard level (so an adjustable desk is brilliant here).
• Eye level 5-7cm below the top of your monitor (again, an adjustable desk helps here).
• A chair that supports your spine and allows you to keep your head and neck straight.
• A mouse that you find comfortable to use.
• Adequate lighting to prevent eye strain – if you can access plenty of natural light, so much the better.

Being able to adjust the height of your desk makes creating an ergonomic workstation a lot easier.

A height adjustable desk gives you lots of flexibility

As well as helping you to stay comfortable at work, a height adjustable desk gives you lots of flexibility.

You can switch between sitting and standing quickly and easily – a great option if you want to make the switch to standing gradually, or just like to use both options.

The desk can also be easily setup to suit multiple users – this is a huge benefit when more than one person is working or studying at home.

Flexispot Q8 standing desk

The Q8 standing desk is a height adjustable desk with built-in storage and charging function.  You can adjust it to a range of heights to accommodate sitting, standing, and multiple users.

This model currently retails at £699.99, which is around the middle of the price range for a height adjustable desk.  At this price it’s certainly an investment, but you get a solid build, lots of good features, and a ten year warranty.

Features of the Q8 Flexispot standing desk

The Q8 standing desk measures 140cm x 70cm, which is more than enough for a typical home working setup.  The adjustable height range is 60cm-124cm.

The desk frame is available in black or white.  The desk top is made from bamboo with rounded edges.  It’s durable, waterproof, and scratch-resistant. It’s also equipped for wireless charging.

On the front of the desk there’s a shallow drawer, plus the control panel with charging ports (USB A & C).

The desk is operated via the control panel.  You can programme up to four height presets, which makes it easy to switch between different users.  You can also manually adjust the height of the desk using the arrow buttons.

There’s also a cable management system to keep wires under control.  This is located under the desk top at the back.

Setting up the Q8 Flexispot standing desk

The Q8 standing desk is supplied in two boxes.  Assembly is very simple; you need to attach the feet to the frame, then attach the desk top and cable tidy.  You don’t need any tools – an allen key is provided – and can easily have the desk ready to go in under half an hour.

Our experience of using the Q8 Flexispot standing desk

We’ve been using the Q8 standing desk for a few weeks now, and there are lots of positives.

First of all, I really like the look of this desk.  It’s modern, sleek and minimal, but it also manages to be really sturdy and practical.  It doesn’t take up loads of floor space either, which is often a key consideration when setting up a home office.

The desk top is a generous size, and easily accommodates my large screen and keyboard.  I don’t like lots of clutter on my desk, so the drawer is a big plus for me.  It’s pretty shallow – you can’t store lots of papers and bulky items – but it’s working well for us.

Still on the subject of clutter, cable mayhem drives me crazy, so I’m loving the cable management system.  The wireless charging function is brilliant on this front too.  You can also use the USB ports with a cable for charging, which gives you the ability to charge up to three devices at once without the need for additional plug sockets.

Another excellent feature is the lack of a bar between the legs.  I’ve found with other desks that this can really impact on getting a comfortable foot position when sitting.  With this desk, you don’t have to worry about that.

I’ve been combining sitting and standing most days, so being able to adjust the height quickly and easily is fantastic.  The desk is used by two other people, so the presets are very handy too.

Having this desk is definitely making it easier to work in a comfortable position.  I’m noticing less aches and stiffness, and being able to toggle between sitting and standing so easily is encouraging me to be more active while working.  The fact that I’m doing something positive to take care of my body is also making me feel good.

I do think that to get the maximum benefit from a height adjustable desk you need to combine it with a good chair to create an ergonomic workstation.  The one you can see in the pictures is the Flexispot BS8 Flexi-Chair which we’ve also reviewed.

Q8 Flexispot standing desk review conclusion

All in all, this desk makes it really easy to setup an ergonomic workstation at home, while still delivering on good looks, quality, and flexibility.

In the context of how much time I spend at my desk, it feels like a good investment for the benefits it offers.

You can find out more about Flexispot and the Q8 standing desk over on their website. Between 22-26 May there’s a promotion running with up to 33% off Flexispot products too.

FlexiSpot supplied me with the Q8 Standing Desk and BS8 Flexi-Chair for review purposes.  All comments and opinions are honest and based on my experience of using the products.

Far as I’m concerned, a berry patch is summertime incarnate.

There’s something that is simply spectacular about a bunch of prickly brambles that’ll sting you just as fast as they give you some delicious fruit, and it all depends on how careful you are in approaching them.

I can’t even eat store-bought blackberries anymore; they taste like pale and bland imitations of the vine-ripened, freshly-plucked bunch of aggregate fruit you get straight from the garden.

And raspberries? Forget about it. They’re a different fruit altogether when they’re freshly picked, compared to those chilled and store-bought in convenient plastic containers.

The only solution to your edible woes is to plant your own berry patch. And it’s not a project for people unwilling to put in the hard work.

Most berries require carefully prepared soils and growing areas to grow to their fullest, and they require regular care to do their best.

But for that brave, maybe foolhardy gardener, a berry patch will pay back the sweat and labor poured into it with the most delectable fruit you can imagine. Let’s see what really goes into it.

Breaking Ground

Location is everything.

Without exception, berry patches need access to full-sun conditions and good drainage in rich, fertile soil.

Some plants have their own needs that need to be addressed (blueberries want a strongly acidic soil, for example), but there are a handful of essentials all berries need to have to grow their best.

Keep Those Wild Berries Away!

Probably the most important aspect of a berry patch is that it needs to maintain a good distance from any existing wild berry and bramble patches.

This is an effort to prevent diseases and infection from transferring from the wild plants to your domesticated ones.

Recommended distances range from as far as 500 yards to a mere 50 feet.

If you’ve got wild brambles growing in the perimeter of your yard and have no use for them, this is a great excuse to eliminate their presence and ensure the future of your own edible crop.

Full Sun and Good Soil

Like most fruit-bearing plants, berries need full sun to grow optimally. Some plants, like raspberries, will grow in part-sun conditions, but their crop yields will suffer for it. Most berry patches I’ve seen are located squarely in the center of a backyard, soaking up as much sun as possible to guarantee good growth.

Producing worthwhile and plentiful fruit requires rich, nutritious soil. In general, preparing a good berry patch is a multi-year endeavor. Initial preparations of the bed are vital to the long term health of the plants.

Organic Material

Plenty of compost, fertilizers, and other organic materials go a long way towards a successful berry patch.

When first establishing a bed for berries, it’s important to completely remove the existing topsoil and amend it with good compost or manure.

Even after plants have been established, apply compost to the beds at regular intervals, once or twice a year.

Because most berries do not do well with competition from weeds and other undesirables, healthy layers of mulch should be added as well.

Some berries have very specific needs. We’ll touch on those in the individual plants section below.

Space and Room to Grow

Even though berries will grow into dense patches of plants on their own, at the time of initial planting they need space and room to spread.

Perennial plants like blackberries, raspberries, cranberries, and blueberries will spread out freely. Regular maintenance of dead canes or runners is required.

Strawberries, on the other hand, tend to survive for just a few years, typically three to five, depending on variety. They need plenty of room to spread out and do their thing.

However, their propensity for spreading out with baby plants (called runners) can quickly choke a patch of plants, ultimately resulting in minimized yields.

Specific Soil and Planting Requirements

Raspberries and blackberries want to be planted in good, rich soil. Plant them thinly and with nice gaps between plants, about one foot apart each, to guarantee air flow and ease of weeding.

Because canes older than two years will die, having this extra space to work with in the beginning pays off greatly in the following years.

Keep the plants in full sun and try to keep them away from strong winds. They will produce in part-sun, but you’ll be disappointed in the volume at harvest time. And their leaves are sensitive to windburn.

Additional Notes

Raspberries will grow a new, green cane in one year. This new growth will then winterize and harden over to a more woody state, to produce fruit in their second year.

These canes will be dead in the third year, and should be removed from the patch.

Some raspberry varieties can be cut down every year and allowed to grow again from scratch. For a more detailed explanation, read our full guide to growing raspberries.

Blackberries resent being dug up and fussed over. Let them spread and do their thing, and watch – in some level of shocked wonder – as their canes reach lengths of nearly twenty feet, topple over, and start a whole new plant.

Once your blackberries are established, just let them go and actively cut back at their growth. It’s a prickly job, but that’s part of the appeal of berry patches. For more details, read our guide to growing blackberries here.

As a final note on this pairing: the two are susceptible to the same diseases. Some folks recommend putting a gap of anywhere between fifty and one hundred yards between the two types, but I’ve never done that.

In some of our clients’ yards, we have one run that is blackberries on the left 10 feet and raspberries on the right 10 feet. We’ve never had trouble with this, but it seems to be an issue for some folks out there.

Specific Soil and Planting Requirements

Most folks start out with a patch about four feet by eight feet for cranberries.

You’ll want to entirely remove all of the soil from this patch and replace it with peat moss, bone meal (about a pound), and blood meal (about half a pound). It’s imperative to prevent the bed from drying out at any point, but not necessary to keep it soaked.

Plant cranberries about two to three feet apart.

They will produce runners regularly; it’s good to keep them growing, but you should be vigilant about preventing them from spreading outside of the bed and into the yard. Cut or pinch them before the runners spread too far.

Individual plants can be grown in a two-by-two-foot square, with soil replaced with peat moss.

Additional Notes

Get ready for some work! To properly grow cranberries requires an investment of effort and time.

Plants don’t produce fruit until they are three years old, so unless you’re buying larger containerized plants, you’re in for a bit of a waiting period. However, once they start to produce, you’ll have plenty to pick.

Cranberries do not require fertilizing for the first two years of their growth, and too much fertilizer will cause them to grow out runners galore while sacrificing food production. Don’t overfeed these guys.

Add some sand to your cranberries each year. A layer of about half an inch scattered around the bed is all you need. Do this in the springtime to encourage new growth and to help eliminate weeds and some insects.

Blueberries

I just can’t get enough fresh-picked blueberries when they’re in season. That also means I never buy them from the store, because they can’t come close to homegrown ones.

I also love the wildlife that’s attracted to blueberries, and the ornamental appearance of the shrubs.

Additional Notes

Blueberries thrive in acidic soil, with a pH as low as 4 to 5. Add plenty of organic material to break down and prep the plants for their new acidic home.

Blueberries also perform at their best when they’re planted in pairs, or even larger groupings. Cross-pollination makes for bigger, better, tastier fruit.

The roots of most blueberries don’t grow deeply. Their roots are fibrous and have a tough time growing in compacted soil. Ideally, you’ll be able to dig out and till the soil where you’re planting your blueberries.

Amend the soil by adding peat moss, compost, sand, and the original soil into a mix. Ideally this will be a ratio of four parts peat moss, two parts compost, two parts original soil, and one part sand (4-2-2-1 ratio).

At the very least, add some peat moss and compost to the planting site.. (Hey, nobody said blueberries aren’t picky.)

Strawberries

Except for the fact that they’re a bit picky in terms of the soil they’ll grow in, strawberries are generally easy to grow, and can be placed in nice little pockets of your garden to fill in as edible ground cover, or to provide a nice splash of color.

The foliage offers exceptional fall color, too.

Specific Soil and Planting Requirements

Strawberries want to be planted in rich, sandy soil with good drainage. They do their best in raised beds or in garden patches with good drainage and regular watering.

When planting them, ensure their roots are tucked just below the soil level and that their leaves are upright and out of the soil.

This sounds simple, but you’d be amazed to know how poorly I’ve seen strawberry patches planted.

Strawberries can take a year to start producing anything worthwhile, and they do not like competition in the meantime. Diligent weeding is a necessity for a strawberry patch.

You can also plant your strawberries in a container. Almost any container with adequate drainage will do: an old wheelbarrow, a broken terra cotta pot laid on its side, or even a colander could do the trick.

If growing in containers, use a standard potting mix with a bit of compost worked in. Allow the strawberries to just start drying out before you water them again.

Read more about growing strawberries in our complete guide.

Additional Notes

I’ve always planted strawberries in a grid pattern and like to combine different varieties in the same patch. I do this mostly because I like the variety in flavor, but it also provides a bigger window of when you can harvest.

Strawberry runners are going to spread out, so you’re going to want to try to cut out about half of these when you see them taking off.

Strawberries don’t want to be overcrowded, and too many runners mean little fruit production.

I’ve had gardens where strawberries aren’t bothered at all by wildlife, and then there are gardens where we’ve had to construct makeshift bamboo and bird netting cages around the plants to keep out chipmunks and groundhogs.

Keeping an active log of what visitors you have in your garden helps to prepare for inevitable troublemakers in the following seasons.

And it’s nice to have this memento as well, a record of your garden’s history. Maybe take a couple pictures, or even try sketching something.

An essential element of your spring garden checklist is a garden journal. Sometimes a simple notebook works, but specially designed garden journals are made for this kind of project.

Collaborative post

Wherever we look, plastic is present. Plastic items can be found in every part of the home, from polyester fibres in our clothes to single-use food wrappers in the kitchen. It can even be found in things we can’t see, like plumbing systems.

However, it’s possible to minimise plastic waste in your home and, in some circumstances, avoid it altogether. Here are a few easy ways to cut back on plastic use in your household.

1. Opt for recycled materials

Recycling lowers energy use and reduces emissions of several contaminants into the water system and the atmosphere. It also produces minimal solid waste when recovered materials are used, and contributes to reducing the pollution that results from the mining and manufacturing of virgin plastic materials.

Next time you’re buying a product that involves plastic, look for recycled alternatives. This applies to large items as well as small; for example, if you’re updating your outdoor furniture you could consider buying a recycled plastic outdoor chair instead of a chair made from virgin plastic granules. 

2. Replace plastic sponge with a loofah

The majority of bathroom and kitchen sponges are made of plastic. After every use, microplastics wear off the sponge’s surface and go into the drain, where they frequently end up being consumed by aquatic organisms or harming coral reefs.

An easy way to avoid this contamination is to replace your synthetic sponges with natural loofah products. These are made from dried fruits of the loofah plant, and are an eco-friendly alternative.

3. Buy organic children’s toys

Many baby toys contain dubious materials. Endocrine-disrupting chemicals called phthalates are added to plastics to increase their transparency and flexibility. Additionally, less expensive toys made of plastic tend to fracture more frequently. Pick non-toxic baby toys made of better materials that will last and remain safe.

If your child is desperate for a particular plastic toy, buying a secondhand version will help to minimise plastic waste. Always aim to donate plastic toys to a charity shop when your child moves on, so that they can be used again rather than ending up in landfill.

4. Switch to a bamboo toothbrush

If you pick your accessories wisely, your health and beauty routine can also benefit the environment.

One easy swap is to choose environmentally conscious toothbrushes, like bamboo. Billions of disposable toothbrushes are thrown away every year, so make sure yours isn’t plastic. If you use an electric toothbrush, you can buy bamboo heads for those too.

Even though plastic has numerous advantages, like being affordable, simple to create, versatile, and readily available, we can’t ignore the fact that plastic waste is out of control and harming the planet. Hopefully these tips will help you to lower environmental waste in your household by switching to eco-friendly materials that help protect our environment.

Today we’re in Altadena Meadows, California, visiting Andrea Donnellan’s beautiful garden. This is a space she created with the designer Arturo Pedroza. He designed the garden and put in the initial plants. That has evolved into a gardening partnership over the years. When her son was small, they put in a lawn and then later converted it to the more water-responsible garden that is there now.

Each year, Andrea scatters wildflower seeds, and the abundant winter rains in California this year have turned the garden into a colorful superbloom.

Sheets of California poppies (Eschscholzia californica, annual) fill the garden with bright orange, complementing the purple flowers of lavender (Lavandula stoechas, Zones 7–9).

The garden’s resident dinosaur is enjoying the superbloom as well.

The poppies are absolutely stunning.

California poppies are native to the west coast of North America, but they thrive as annuals in many gardens. There are selected forms in a wide range of colors, but it is hard to beat the original bright sunny orange.

Andrea first planted African daisy (Osteospermum hybrid, Zones 10–11 or grown as an annual) in front of the house, and now it volunteers along their parkway. In the foreground are the delicate blue flowers of the California native baby blue eyes (Nemophila menziesii, annual).

A closer look at the African daisy flowers.

Rosea purple iceplant (Drosanthemum floribundum, Zones 10–11) was planted nearly three decades ago and is still adding beautiful color to the hillside.

This water-wise garden includes many natives while also being a really beautiful space.

 

Have a garden you’d like to share?

Have photos to share? We’d love to see your garden, a particular collection of plants you love, or a wonderful garden you had the chance to visit!

To submit, send 5-10 photos to [email protected] along with some information about the plants in the pictures and where you took the photos. We’d love to hear where you are located, how long you’ve been gardening, successes you are proud of, failures you learned from, hopes for the future, favorite plants, or funny stories from your garden.

Have a mobile phone? Tag your photos on Facebook, Instagram or Twitter with #FineGardening!

Do you receive the GPOD by email yet? Sign up here.

Collaborative post

As with any living organism, plants need food to stay healthy and grow. Nitrogen plays a key part in this process for plants, as one of the basic elements of plant nutrition.

Nitrogen fertilisers are used to enrich soil, in order to obtain high yields from edible crops and to help ornamental plants thrive. To determine the best product for your garden, you need to consider the ratio of nitrogen to other ingredients, the method and time of application, and the needs of the particular plant.

This article explores the role of nitrogen in plant health, and how to spot signs of nitrogen deficiency.

Signs of nitrogen deficiency in plants

Symptoms of nitrogen deficiency in plants include:

• The plant turns lighter in colour compared to other plants;
• The middle and upper part of the plant produces larger leaves faster;
• The lower leaves of the plant slowly lose their colour, turning yellow or white before falling off;
• The stems of smaller leaves start turning purple;
• Vertical purple stripes start appearing on the plant’s stem;
• The plant is shorter, stems and leaves thin, less and smaller leaves form;
• The plant’s middle and upper leaves also start turning yellow;
• New leaves look green, but are nowhere near as green as they should be with normal nitrogen levels.

Even with high levels of nitrogen in the soil, some factors influence the availability and uptake of nitrogen by plants. These include cold weather, compacted and cold soil, poor microbiological activity, and lack of moisture.

Nitrogen fixation as a part of the nitrogen cycle

The air that all living things breathe is composed of mostly nitrogen, but air nitrogen is not available to humans, animals, or plants. Microorganisms come to the rescue, converting airborne nitrogen into a form that is available to all plants. After the plant dies, all the nitrogen-containing substances in the plant debris are recycled by the microorganisms. Protein and amino acids are converted by the microorganisms into ammonia and ammonium compounds, which, in turn, are converted into nitrite and nitrate, after which the following plants use up the nitrates via their root system.

Unspent nitrates are used in a process called denitrification, during which nitrate is converted into nitrogen gas and returned to the atmosphere. During thunderstorms and at high temperatures, nitrogen and oxygen combine to form nitric oxide, which in turn combines with air moisture in the form of nitric acid solution and falls to the soil surface during rainfall.

In other words, plants cannot absorb nitrogen from the air, but microbes can do it for them. Nodules, for example, convert nitrogen into a form that plants can assimilate: this is called nitrogen fixation. Legume families play a major role in this process. In symbiosis with nodule bacteria, having satisfied their need for nitrogen, legumes enrich the soil with it.

All nitrogen fixers are divided into three groups:

• Symbiotic nitrogen fixers. These interact with cultivated plants, enter into symbiosis with them, and form additional organs on the plant roots, e.g. in legumes this is formation of nodules.
• Associative nitrogen fixers. These microorganisms are either on the surface or inside the plant, or live on the surface of the root system.
• Non-symbiotic or free-living nitrogen fixers. These microorganisms do not interact with higher plants, they live freely in the soil and convert nitrogen to ammonia.

Tracking nitrogen in plants

Given the importance of nitrogen in plant health, it’s no wonder there are plenty of ways to track nitrogen levels in soil and crops. These include ground sensors, drones, and satellite imagery. For example, a software called EOSDA Crop Monitoring is a precision farming platform that uses satellite imagery analytics with the help of AI to enable growers to manage fields effectively and remotely. One of the possibilities the tool offers is tracking of chlorophyll content in crops, which is a great indicator of nitrogen level.

Apart from being important for photosynthesis, chlorophyll is also responsible for “painting” the plants green. Therefore, healthy vegetation that contains enough chlorophyll is bright green. On the contrary, plants that lack chlorophyll would turn pale green and yellow, signalling crop health deterioration, possibly due to nitrogen deficiency.